DIY gypsum board partition. Construction of plasterboard walls in an apartment: interior and full walls. Carrying out finishing work

14.02.2016 0 Comments

Although plasterboard partitions have become widely known relatively recently, today many builders, as well as owners of offices and even residential apartments, cannot imagine their lives without them. Their installation is quite simple, easy and cheap, but at the same time they make it easy to zone a room. Therefore, learning more about them will be useful for many people - perhaps the use of plasterboard partitions will be a good solution for them.

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Advantages of plasterboard partitions

These designs have quite a lot important advantages, which should be kept in mind. Here are just the most obvious and important ones:

Excellent sound insulation. It is enough to install a metal frame with one layer of plasterboard 12 millimeters thick to achieve sound absorption of up to 47 dB. If you sew a double layer of material onto the frame, this figure will increase to 45 dB;
The material is extremely lightweight. Unlike brick and concrete partitions, plasterboard partitions are quite light (a sheet with an area of 1 square meter weighs from 25 to 50 kg, depending on thickness), which allows not to create a significant load on the supporting structure;
Drywall has a flat surface, which is perfect for covering with any finishing material - from paint and wallpaper to decorative stone slabs;
Modern drywall is a non-flammable material, which increases the safety of its use;
Its relatively large porosity allows it to be classified as a “breathing” material. That is, it not only allows steam to pass through, but also absorbs excess moisture from the air, and, if necessary, releases it, making the microclimate in the room more stable;
Ease of installation is an even more important indicator. Any room can be transformed beyond recognition in a matter of hours. And it is not always necessary to resort to the help of specialists, spending extra money. You can build plasterboard partitions with your own hands - all you need is simple tools and at least basic construction skills. At the same time, the amount of construction waste during work is minimal.

As you can see, the advantages of such partitions are very numerous. But it is equally important to have an idea of the shortcomings, so as not to later regret a bad choice.

Disadvantages of plasterboard partitions

Alas, like any other building material, drywall has certain disadvantages. First of all, it is fragility. Unlike wooden and especially brick walls, plasterboard walls are easily damaged.

Although drywall is a “breathable” material, it does not tolerate high humidity and, especially, direct contact with water. That is, if your upstairs neighbors flood you and water gets on the plasterboard partitions, the latter will be hopelessly damaged - you will have to change them.

It is not advisable to hang shelves and cabinets on such partitions - they will become a serious additional load on the metal profile, and it may simply not withstand it.

This is where the disadvantages of this material end. Yes, there are significantly fewer of them than advantages. This is why installation of plasterboard partitions is such a popular service today.

How to choose material?

If you decide to install plasterboard partitions in your apartment or house with your own hands, you will need: profile, plasterboard, self-tapping screws. At first glance, this all sounds quite simple. But, having come to hardware store, many people who do not work in the construction industry are lost. Therefore, it will be useful to talk about these materials in more detail.

Types and purpose of metal profiles

Profiles may vary functional purpose and, accordingly, the section:

Guide profile. Its cross section resembles a channel. Used as a base if you need to secure a rack profile. Its shelves are 40 millimeters wide. The backrest can have a width from 50 to 100 millimeters. All are mentioned in the labeling required parameters. For example, if you see a material marked PN 40-75, then this is a guide profile with a back 75 mm long and a shelf 40 mm long;
Rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of special inward bends at the ends of the shelves. In addition, its width is slightly larger - 50 millimeters. May be marked as PS 50-75. But it should be remembered that usually the back has a smaller width - instead of the indicated 50 mm, no more than 48.5.
Ceiling profile. Used to create a ceiling frame followed by plasterboard covering;
Corner profile. Needed to create smooth and attractive outside corners. Able to protect soft plasterboard corners from any mechanical damage;
There is also an arched profile. It is used to create arched openings. The back and shelf of the profile are divided into equal sections, this allows it to be easily bent, giving it almost any shape;
The beacon profile is used if you need to level the walls to a given level. The profile is used as a stop that allows you to set the rule to the desired level.

All profiles have different lengths - from 2750 to 6000 millimeters, which allows you to choose the right one for any job.

It is also worth noting that the profile can vary significantly in the thickness of the metal used. Typically the thickness ranges from 0.4 to 0.55 millimeters. Of course, if the thickness is greater, then the profile has greater strength, but it costs more and weighs more. Therefore, you should approach its choice as carefully as possible in order to choose exactly the one that is suitable for making plasterboard partitions with your own hands.

Drywall can also vary in a number of ways. For example, the thickness of the sheets can be from 6 to 15 millimeters. Thin sheets are suitable for forming complex surfaces and arches. And to make partitions, the minimum thickness must be at least 12.5 millimeters. Otherwise, the sheets may not withstand possible mechanical loads.

Drywall is also usually divided into several groups:

Standard drywall. Used for finishing any surfaces. Gray color with blue markings;
Moisture-resistant drywall. Suitable for rooms with high humidity. Green with blue markings;
Fire-resistant plasterboard. It is used in ventilation shafts, electrical panels, and attics. Gray color, with red markings;
Fireproof and moisture resistant drywall. Green, with red markings.

Of course, choosing suitable material, you need to pay attention not only to the thickness of the sheets, but also to the purpose of the drywall in order to make right choice. Based on the thickness of the sheets, you should choose the length of the screws. They should securely fix the drywall to the profile, but not stick out after screwing.

Work progress

List of tools needed to complete the work

To install a plasterboard partition with your own hands, you need to use not many tools: a building level, a stationery knife, a hammer, a screwdriver, a hammer drill, metal scissors, a 5-7 meter tape measure, a plumb line and a pencil.

Some professionals prefer to use a more convenient laser self-leveling level. Indeed, with its help you can quickly complete a significant amount of work. But this is a rather expensive tool, so in most cases you can get by with the simplest hydraulic level.

If you don’t have a screwdriver or electric drill, you can get by with a screwdriver. Yes, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort to do all the work manually. But, nevertheless, it is quite real.

When all the tools are collected and necessary materials purchased, you can start working. And for many people doing this work for the first time, it would be a good idea to know how to install plasterboard partitions with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction below will help you with this.

How to install a guide profile

The first stage of work is the installation of the guide profile. It is necessary to mark a line on the floor (preferably with chalk, as it is easily erased). A new partition will be installed along it. We install the guide profile in the marked place.

If work is carried out in a room with wooden floors, the profile is simply fixed with self-tapping screws. It's more difficult if you have to work with concrete floors. Holes are pre-drilled in them into which dowels are installed. The distance between the screws should not exceed 30 centimeters for reliable fixation.

The next stage is fixing the profile on the walls. For this purpose, the first profile is used as a place bottom mount. Using a plumb line, we ensure that the profile is strictly vertical. It is mounted on the wall, just like it was mounted on the floor. If the wall is made of silicate blocks or aerated concrete, it is better to use special dowel nails. They also need to be installed at intervals of no more than 30 centimeters.

At the joints, the profiles are connected to each other using short (no more than 15 millimeters) self-tapping screws.

In the same way, you need to install a ceiling profile, thereby closing the loop for the future plasterboard partition.

Installing a vertical profile

The design of a blind partition that does not include a doorway is simple. Vertical profiles are installed on guides, and must be installed from the wall. Places for installing the profile should be marked in advance. The distance between them must be determined individually - it depends on how wide the drywall sheets are. On one sheet you need to install three racks - along the edges and in the center. For example, if a sheet 120 centimeters wide is installed, the racks are installed at intervals of 60 centimeters.

Before you start connecting profiles, you need to know how to do it correctly. First, you should fix the screws closer to the back, and only then - closer to the edge. In this case, the risk of shelf deformation is eliminated. This means that the quality of the profile and its load bearing capacity will not be harmed.

To increase the rigidity of the structure, additional sections of the profile are installed between the vertical posts. Their length should correspond to the distance between the installed profile - during installation it is advisable to use short self-tapping screws that can reliably fasten the entire structure.

The minimum distance between horizontal profiles is 40 centimeters. In general, it depends on the length of the sheets. You need to make sure that their edges lie in the middle of the profile. If you plan to hang light shelves or a hanger on a plasterboard partition, in pre-marked places the profile is reinforced with wooden blocks - they will bear the load.

If you need a regular interior partition, you can use whole sheets of drywall. Where this is not possible, the sheets will have to be cut stationery knife. How to do this carefully? You just need to lay the ruler down and run the knife several times in one place, gradually deepening the cut. Of course, this should be done by carefully measuring and marking everything so as not to spoil the building materials.

When fastening drywall to a profile, you should ensure a gap between the floor and the bottom edge of the sheet. The gap should not be too large - about 5 millimeters.

After this, the sheet is attached to vertical and guide posts. Optimal distance between screws – 15-20 centimeters. In this case, it is advisable to recess the screw heads into the sheet by 1 millimeter. When the sheet is secured, its horizontalness can be checked with a level.

As you can see, the technology for constructing plasterboard partitions is not fraught with anything complicated.
When construction is completed, paint or wallpaper is applied to the surface, as provided for in the design project of a particular room.

The installation process will be a little more complicated if you are interested in a partition with a door.

In this case, the vertical profiles should be installed not from the wall, but from the marked opening. When installing guide profiles, a suitable gap must also be provided. The installation of the rack profile is carried out so that the width of the doorway in the lower and upper parts is the same.

The main thing to remember here is that both the door and door frame. Otherwise, you will have to redo a lot of work later.

To increase the strength of the opening, they are inserted into the profile wooden beam OK. To fix it, it is better to use self-tapping screws with a length of at least 35 millimeters.

When the profile around the doorway has taken a finished form, you can continue installing the rest of the profile, starting with it and moving towards the walls.

That's all. If you master the theory presented in the article, you will probably be able to install plasterboard partitions with your own hands without any problems.

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Today, you can change the layout of any room very quickly, using not heavy brick partitions, but light and durable interior partitions made of plasterboard. Using such frame structures, you can quickly and relatively inexpensively change the area and location of rooms, use decorative partitions to divide them into zones, and plan the interior from scratch in a new building.

Design and decoration of an interior partition made of plasterboard

The bulk of housing was built back in the USSR, when the main goal was not the design and convenience of living quarters, but the quantity of housing. As a result, the old layout does not meet the needs modern man: the kitchens are too miniature, the corridors and hallways are very cramped. Modern new buildings also do not always correspond to personal preferences in the arrangement of rooms.

The way out of the situation is a complete redevelopment by demolishing the old partitions and erecting an interior partition from plasterboard with your own hands. This is the simplest, fastest and most inexpensive way.
In addition to redevelopment, such structures can be used to design studio apartment, highlighting areas for rest, work, eating and sleeping.

Layout of a one-room studio apartment with a plasterboard partition

Problems that can be solved by installing frame partitions:

increase the kitchen area by combining a separate bathroom and moving the partition, or arranging a studio;
expand the corridor or hallway by “moving” the partition;
completely change the area of the rooms, their purpose, or even location, demolishing all non-load-bearing partitions and installing new ones;
remove unnecessary storage rooms in the apartment, adding extra meters to the bathroom, kitchen or living room;
plan a new arrangement of rooms in a new building apartment;
make separate rooms from passage rooms.

Using technology such as installing an interior partition made of plasterboard, you can solve almost all problems of changing the layout of any apartment.

Diagram of a plasterboard interior partition

Materials and tools for plasterboard partitions

Construction of light and strong interior partitions made from plasterboard, after which finishing work is carried out. To complete such a design, you need a certain list of materials:

drywall;
profiles or wooden slats;
fasteners: screws, press washers, dowels, nails, ;
sound insulation of interior partitions is provided by mineral wool;
Decoration Materials: , mesh, gypsum plaster mixtures;
: level and tape measure, grinder and screwdriver, stationery knife with blades, bits, spatulas, trowel.

These are the basic materials and equipment, without which the installation of interior partitions is impossible or significantly difficult.

Drywall

Drywall, which is used in residential construction, is: wall, waterproof and fireproof. Wall view used for finishing walls and constructing partitions in rooms that will not experience increased exposure to moisture.

Simply put, for living rooms. It is the cheapest, but it is better to take drywall from well-known manufacturers. The cost is 160 rubles or 220 per sheet of 3 meters.

Waterproof sheet, worth purchasing for partitions in bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens. It costs a little more. It is better to make interior partitions from material famous brands. Fireproof plasterboard is used in the construction of structures in which there is a high probability of exposure to high temperatures. Its price is higher than previous varieties, so installing partitions from such material is impractical.

The required number of sheets is taken based on the length of the partition. Standard size plasterboard 2500×1250 mm, that is, for a wall 3 meters long you need 2.5 sheets.

Profiles

An interior partition made of plasterboard can be assembled using wooden frame, however, the material must be well-dried, smooth, preferably without knots and treated against rotting. Such requirements make it difficult to use wood, and “high-quality” means expensive. It is best to install partitions from metal profile. Several types of metal profile will be required.

As with drywall, the amount of profile is calculated based on the parameters of the future wall.

Fasteners

Fastening material can be divided into two subgroups: for frames and drywall. The elements of the base from the profile are connected to each other with small metal screws - press washers. The guide profiles are attached to the surface of the floor, walls and ceiling with dowel nails. It is important that the fasteners must match the material of the supporting structures and provide rigid fixation. If necessary, purchase the appropriate anchors.

mounted with self-tapping screws with a length of 20 mm (sheet thickness 12 mm + insert into metal). To secure one unit of material it takes 25-30 pieces of such screws.

Soundproofing material

Soundproofing of interior partitions is done through the use of mineral wool. It is sold in rolls or cut into squares. The thickness of the layer will determine the quality of sound insulation. The required amount of insulating material is taken based on the area of the pier.

Decoration Materials

The completed partitions are prepared for final finishing: the joints between the sheets are sealed and the surfaces are puttied. You need to purchase primer and gypsum plaster. Reinforcing tape, or serpyanka, can be simple and self-adhesive. It is better to purchase the latter option, as it is easier to use. The width is selected as needed.

Puttying plasterboard partitions

The primer is treated before. It is advisable to buy such material with antiseptic properties. Plaster mixtures There are three types; for the simplest finishing for painting or wallpaper, you can purchase a finishing or universal mixture. The quantity is calculated based on the area of the wall. The putty consumption is indicated on the packaging. It is calculated in the mass of material per 1 mm of layer.
When all materials are available, we begin to assemble the interior partitions.

Installation of a plasterboard partition: step-by-step instructions

A do-it-yourself plasterboard partition is built according to an algorithm in three stages.

frame installation;
finishing.

Frame installation

Before you start making an interior partition from plasterboard, you need to prepare the place. The guide profiles are attached to the floor slabs, which means you need to remove the flooring and finishing materials from the ceiling.

The process of installing a plasterboard partition

After marking, the production of the base begins with the installation of UW guide profiles. To do this, holes are drilled on the load-bearing surfaces for dowels and nails in increments of 30–40 cm. The profile is laid and dowels are inserted. The mounting screws are hammered.

If you are planning plasterboard partitions with a door, then you will need to install a door profile, which is secured to the guides with “bugs”. To ensure that the structure can easily support the door fastenings, a wooden beam of the appropriate size is placed in it.

After this, we build the frame by installing racks. The rack profile is connected to the guide rails using press washers. The number of racks is placed at the rate of 3–4 pieces per gypsum board.

Step-by-step installation plasterboard partition frame

From the rack profile for walls CD or from the same CW, we install transverse jumpers that are attached to the racks. To do this, you need to cut off the shelves from the transverse slats. Fastening is carried out with metal screws - press washers or “bugs”.

It is important to remember that if you plan to hang shelves or household appliances on the partition, installed frame need to be mortgaged wooden blocks(thickness at least 50 mm), and draw a diagram of their location. But if this moment is missed, you will need to purchase special types dowels. You also need to do the wiring for household appliances and lighting. When the structure of the frame is ready, they begin to cover it. Watch a video tutorial on installing a plasterboard partition.

Sheathing with plasterboard

Installation of plasterboard on the frame of the interior partition is carried out with a gap from the floor and ceiling of 10 and 5 mm, respectively. The sheets must be installed upright. The length of the material may not be enough, so then small pieces are added, alternating their location at the top and bottom. The pitch between the screws should be no more than 25–30 cm.

When screwing in the fasteners, the caps are slightly sunk into the surface carefully, without damaging the cardboard layer. They begin screwing in the screws from right to left or vice versa, in no case from the initial fixation of the corners. When one side of the partition is built, they make soundproofing backfills, after which they begin covering the opposite surface.

Scheme of covering an interior partition with plasterboard

Holes are cut out in the material for the sockets and the wiring is brought out into them.

Finishing work

The advantage of drywall is that after creating the structure, you can immediately begin finishing it. They begin work by sealing joints and fastening points. The joints are covered with sickle tape and puttied ready-made mixture. The attachment points are covered gypsum plaster. Before puttying, the walls are treated with a primer and allowed to dry for 30 minutes.

Option for finishing and design of interior partition made from gypsum plasterboard sheets

The surfaces of the partition are puttyed with universal or finishing putty, with a layer of 1 mm. To do this, use spatulas or a straight trowel. The gypsum mixture will dry for several days, after which it is rubbed down and the final design of the room is made. The advantage of such partitions is the speed of their construction, lightness and strength of the structure. You can quickly build beautiful, perfectly smooth walls. A simple algorithm of work makes it possible to do everything yourself, without resorting to outside help.

A popular way to divide the space of an apartment or room into parts is to build a metal frame filled with mineral wool and covered with gypsum board, that is, slabs with a gypsum core covered with durable construction cardboard. This is a fairly simple system that you can install yourself. How to make a partition from plasterboard and profiles?

All about installing plasterboard partitions:

Which drywall is suitable?

First of all, you need to choose materials that suit your needs.

Kinds

For finishing city apartments and country houses the following types are used:

Ordinary. It is intended for rooms where the water vapor content in the air is 30-60%.
Moisture-resistant, easily recognizable by the characteristic green color of the cardboard. It can be used for rooms with humidity up to 75%, primarily in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen.
Fire resistant, fire and moisture resistant, impact resistant. These are specialized products that are less often used in private homes. Meanwhile, the impact-resistant material is good choice for rooms where there is a possibility of mechanical impact on the walls - children's rooms, corridors. It is also suitable for supports on which you plan to hang heavy furniture.

GKL sizes

On sale you can find sheets with the following parameters (mm):

Width 600 or 1200
Length from 2000 to 4000
Thickness 6.5; 8; 9.5; 12.5; 14; 16; 18; 20

The popular size among consumers is 1200x2500, since larger products are more difficult to transport and move on site. Experts recommend using slabs with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm for cladding to ensure the rigidity and strength of the structure. Thin products are more easily damaged, they insulate sound worse, and you can’t even hang a light shelf on them.

Calculation of the number of layers

The frame is sheathed on each side with one, two or three layers sheet material. The larger, the stronger and stiffer the structure and the better its soundproofing properties - due to its massiveness. But the higher its cost. Therefore, the optimal solution for a living space is two layers on each side of the structure.

Calculation of the number of sheets

How many slabs will be needed for finishing? The calculation is simple: we calculate the total area of the interior wall on one side, without openings. If we do the cladding in one layer, then we multiply the resulting value by two (after all, the wall has two sides). If in two layers, then in four. We divide this figure by the area of one gypsum board. For example, for a product measuring 2500x1200 it is 3 m2. Don’t forget about the reserve, its coefficient depends on the size of the room. When its dimensions are less than 10 m2, it is 1.3, when less than 20 m2 - 1.2, when more than 20 m2 - 1.1. We multiply the previously obtained figure by this coefficient, round up to a whole number and obtain the required number of slabs.

How to choose profile sizes

Partitions are constructed from horizontal (guides) and vertical (rack-mount). They are U-shaped, made of galvanized steel. Their parameters (mm):

The cross-section of the guides is 50x40, 75x40, 100x40, rack-mount - 50x50, 75x50, 100x50.
Length - 3000, 3500, 4000.
Thickness - from 0.5 to 2.

The size of the product is selected based on the planned loads, sound insulation requirements, etc. Please note: the stand must fit tightly into the guide. For example, for a horizontal element with a section of 50x40, vertical sections with a section of 50x50 are suitable.

Often, to save apartment space, a wall is made only 7-8 cm on a frame made of galvanized steel profiles 50 × 50. Such a system is highly susceptible to vibrations, and 0.5 cm thick mineral wool is not enough to comply building codes in terms of sound insulation (41 dB).

The system should be assembled from elements 50x70 or 50x100. You can also take dry, knot-free wooden blocks - some experts believe that this option is even better in terms of insulation airborne noise.

In addition, the thickness of the profile is also important. For interior wall choose designs of at least 0.6 mm. If you use thinner parts, then when attaching the slabs, the screws may turn, which reduces the strength of the structure. There are already products on the market, but they have insufficient rigidity and therefore should not be used. Otherwise there is a risk of sagging.

What materials and tools will be needed

Materials

Sound-absorbing mats - usually made of (stone fiber)
Damper (sealing) tape
Dowel-nails
Anchor wedges
Self-tapping screws with press washer
Self-tapping screws (self-tapping screws) with a countersunk head
Acrylic primer
Gypsum or polymer putty
Reinforcing paper tape

How to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands

Installation of plasterboard can only be carried out after all “wet” work on site has been completed. If the air in the room is heavily saturated with moisture, the slabs will absorb it and may become deformed.

In addition, it is not recommended to begin installation immediately after delivery of the plasterboard to the site. After all, they were most likely stored in a damp, unheated room. If they are immediately placed vertically in a heated room and secured to a base, they will begin to dry unevenly, which can lead to their curvature and the appearance of cracks on the wall surface. It is worth waiting at least 24 hours (or better - 3-4 days), placing the material in a horizontal position, and only then proceeding with the main work.

Marking

The first stage is marking the design location. It is performed using laser level or rulers in combination with a coloring cord. First, mark the place for the partition and the doorway on the floor. Then using laser device or a plumb line, the outline of the structure is transferred to the walls and ceiling.

Installation of guides

Ensure that the guides fit snugly to the base.
Prevent the spread of vibration from the house structure by improving sound insulation.

Horizontal beams are fixed to the floor and walls with 6x40 dowel nails. The distance between the fasteners is no more than 100 cm (optimally about 40 cm), moreover, there must be at least three dowel nails per guide. The holes for them are made with a puncher. The nails are driven in with a screwdriver or, if you have experience, with the same hammer drill. It is recommended to attach them to the ceiling with wedge anchors in pre-drilled holes.

You can cut the frame parts with metal scissors (mechanical, electric) or an angle grinder. But be extremely careful. Burrs after cutting with scissors, as well as protruding screw heads can cause unevenness. Meanwhile, the structure is not designed for plastering, and putty can be used to “remove” small bumps and pits. At the same time, continuous puttying will significantly increase the labor intensity of the work.

Construction of racks

Typically, the pitch of vertical supports is 60 cm. In the case of a high design load on this wall or a ceiling height of more than 4 m, the pitch is reduced to 40 cm. You can also increase the rigidity this way: make a stand from two profiles, installed end to end and fastened with press washers . It can also be strengthened using horizontal jumpers. Vertical supports should be 1 cm less than the height of the room - for ease of installation and to compensate for possible shrinkage of the building. If the product is shorter than necessary, it is lengthened. To do this, one element is placed on another with an overlap of at least 50 cm and connected with self-tapping screws. In the frame, the overlaps are spaced apart to prevent weakening of the structure and, as a result, the appearance of cracks.

Some craftsmen fasten vertical and horizontal beams with self-tapping screws and press washers. It is not right. The caps will face towards the room, will stick out and interfere during the covering, which will ultimately negatively affect the reliability of the entire system. As an option, you can fasten the guides with self-tapping screws until the base is assembled. And then, immediately before finishing the gypsum boards, unscrew them step by step. But this will increase installation time.

The optimal solution is a cutter. He will connect the parts using the cutting and folding method. Such fasteners do not interfere with subsequent installation. Let us add that the vertical supports must be level before fastening.

A technical error is considered to be the absence of cushioning layers between the partition and the main walls and ceilings. In this case, structural noise is transmitted to it. It is advisable to attach the guides to the walls, ceiling and floor through elastic gaskets (made of porous rubber, cork, polyethylene foam), which will dampen vibration, make the structure more airtight and thereby help increase the level of acoustic comfort in the rooms. In a new building, seams filled with elastic material compensate for shrinkage deformations of building elements.

Creating a Doorway

Most often it is performed using standard profiles, inside of which wooden blocks are placed for reinforcement. You can also connect two racks into a box or install a special 2 mm thick profile element, which has increased strength and is suitable for massive ones. Above the opening, a horizontal jumper is provided from a trimmed frame part. The jumper is leveled and fixed to the posts with self-tapping screws.

An important point: you need to mark the places for the racks so that subsequently the joints do not fall on the vertical beams framing the opening. Otherwise, there is a risk of cracks appearing around it.

Soundproofing and communications

Before installation, holes are cut in the racks for electrical wiring. The cables are pulled into corrugated pipes. The holes in the plasterboard for the socket boxes are made with metal crowns - attachments for a screwdriver.

The space between the racks is filled with sound-absorbing mats or rolls of mineral wool. They are selected based on the width of the frame.

As for the choice of rolled mineral wool, a product with a density of at least 40 kg/m3 is suitable. Wool of less density cakes and settles over time.

Sheathing

When performing this, the following rules must be observed:

Use self-tapping screws of the required length. The calculation is as follows: length = sheet thickness + profile + 1 cm (the fasteners should extend into the metal part). That is, for single-layer sheathing of 12.5 mm, self-tapping screws 2.5 cm long are used, for double-layer sheathing - 3.5 cm long.
When screwing, the screws must be recessed into the gypsum board strictly by 1 mm. If you do not tighten them, they will become an obstacle during puttying. If you twist them, they can damage the core of the product, and the fastening will be unreliable. Cheap way set the desired depth - an attachment with a limiter for a conventional screwdriver. Professionals prefer a screwdriver with limited driving depth.
The installation pitch of the screws is no more than 25 cm. To prevent the slab from crumbling, they must be screwed in at a distance of at least 1.5 cm from it end edge and at least 1 cm from the longitudinal one.
Often the height of the structure is greater than the length of the gypsum board. Then, with single-layer cladding, vertically adjacent slabs are joined on an additional lintel. Moreover, horizontally adjacent ones are mounted with an offset of 40-60 cm. When finishing in two layers, the jumpers can be neglected, but the elements of the second layer should overlap the joints of the first and be spaced apart relative to each other.
To avoid the appearance of cracks, you need to leave a gap between the slabs and the floor of at least 1 cm. A small gap is also left on top, and at the point where the sheathing adjoins the ceiling, you can stick a separating tape.
Drywall is cut with a special hacksaw or a construction or stationery knife. When working with a hacksaw, there will be dust and the cut will be sloppy. And when using a knife, it is neat and does not create dust. However, you cannot remove the edges from the sheets at the joints with a knife (as required by the installation technology): the cut will be uneven. The edges are removed with a special plane having an angle of 22.5°. This allows you to make a 45° joint between materials. If it is necessary to level the edge of the cut layer, use a roughing plane.
The doorway is first completely covered with sheathing, which is then cut along the posts and lintel - this makes it easier to ensure the desired geometry. Thus, the upper part of the opening is always formed by L-shaped elements to prevent cracks from occurring.

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum coziness and comfort in what we have. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully satisfy the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional areas, dividing frame partitions, covered with plasterboard, and installing the door.

Anatomy of a plasterboard structure

Despite the features of the interior, your design concept, as well as the location and size of plasterboard partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. Their basis is a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the installation point of the doorway. To increase the heat and sound insulation properties, the sheathing is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the structure. The assembled and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides sheets of drywall(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The profile frame is filled with insulation and sheathed with gypsum plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions covered with gypsum plasterboard are used to divide or zone space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are installed in production and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of plasterboard allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special requirements to fire safety.

Advantages

Frame structures covered with plasterboard sheets have long and with great success replaced partitions made of brick or wood due to a number of characteristic advantages:

Properties of materials. A durable metal profile allows you to install lightweight frames of partitions of any shape and size, without creating additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is environmentally friendly pure material, specially treated to improve fire-retardant and moisture-resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam plastic or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GKL is distinguished by a perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishing.
Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - even a beginner, “inexperienced” home craftsman in construction work can create them. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product can be easily disassembled and reassembled.
Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewerage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
Minimum costs. All elements that make up a partition covered with gypsum plasterboard are low in cost. When installing the product, no piles of construction waste and dust are formed and does not exceed permissible level noise and uses minimal energy.

Flaws

We will also definitely note the disadvantages of the design that need to be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
Low resistance of gypsum plasterboard to heavy exposure to moisture. The material can be destroyed as a result of a leak “organized” by neighbors living above.
Inability to attach massive shelves to the partition surface or wall cabinets. The design is capable of holding weight up to 70 kg per linear meter provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some shortcomings of gypsum boards, we note that competent creation and correct operation Partitions made from this material will help quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of a room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparing for work

That’s it, this short “theory course” is over, let’s move on to the solution practical issues. Let's look at the list first the necessary tool, we will list the materials that we will need to erect the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their quantity.

Tool

To install a partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

Tape measure, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
Angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors - cutting profile strips into elements of the required length.
Jigsaw (hacksaw) with files for drywall or construction knife- cutting sheathing sheets to size.
Impact drill or hammer drill - making holes in load-bearing floors for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and installing sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! To install the structure on the upper levels, you will need a durable stepladder. Work with metal profiles and drywall requires the mandatory use of personal protection- glasses or mask, thick gloves, respirator.

Materials

At self-installation The following materials will be used for partitions:

There are two types of metal profiles for mounting the frame: PN - “guide” (English marking UW) - attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls to form the outline of the structure. Also used when creating a doorway. PS - “rack-mount” (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is a load-bearing element of the sheathing.
Drywall for sheathing - covers the frame on both sides.
Insulation - fills the inside of the structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the main materials for the construction of a partition, you need to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's look at this question in more detail:

Profile. Standard installation of interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the thicker the partition itself.
Drywall. There are several types of material for covering the frame; the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use gypsum board - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and creating curved and shaped structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing a room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (cork board or dense foam), and to highlight the hallway area it will be useful basalt wool, excellent heat retention.

In addition to the basic structural elements, to create it you will need:

Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) – installation of the profile to the floors.
Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) – fastening frame elements.
Self-tapping piercing screws for plasterboard (MN 25 or MN 30) – installation of sheathing.
Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
Corner profile (PU) - strengthening the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The entire structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Expert advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas where screw heads are screwed in on the surface of the sheathing - reinforcing sickle tape, primer for gypsum boards, finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchases of material, you should correctly calculate it required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of cladding layers). Let's consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a frame made of a profile 75 mm wide and single-layer cladding with gypsum plasterboard sheets.

Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract the width of the doorway (0.8) from this value and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will secure entirely, vertically to the load-bearing walls. We will cover the remaining length of 9.2 m with three four-meter profile strips (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for strengthening the frame at the location of the door and installing jumpers between the posts.
The UW profile that forms the outline of the structure is indicated in black.
Rack profile (CW). Taking into account the standard width of the gypsum board sheet (1.2 m), the vertical posts of the frame must be installed in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the slabs are connected on one profile, and another element is located in the middle of the sheet.
Frame posts should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other
Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and ultimately getting 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).
The vertical posts of the partition frame made from CW profile are marked in grey.
Profile for a doorway. At the location where the door is installed, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a strip of guide profile, this is constructive solution will also be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we will need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW) of the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a section of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.
Two load-bearing reinforced pillars are highlighted in green, and the lintel (upper beam) of the doorway is highlighted in blue.
Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from a guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.
The jumpers made of UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure.
Drywall. As a material for cladding we use gypsum board sheets (slabs) with a length of 3000, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12.5 mm. To cover one side of the frame, we will need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. We calculate the drywall for the second side of the partition so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are offset by half the sheet. This also requires five slabs - two full and three trimmed.
On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way
The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one rack or 600 mm

Expert advice: Double-sided installation of gypsum board sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition, use two layers of drywall when covering it.

Summarizing the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway we will need:

guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 stripes;
rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 stripes;
plasterboard (gypsum board 1200x3000x12.5 mm) – 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fastening elements) is calculated based on the step of their installation. Maximum distance the distance between the dowels securing the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are installed every 250–300 mm.

Engineers German company KNAUF is a world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction- prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

Position	Name	Unit measurements	Quantity per sq. m
1	KNAUF sheet (GKL, GKLV, GKLO)	sq. m	2,0
2	KNAUF profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40)	linear m	0,7
3	KNAUF profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50)	linear m	2,0
4	Screw TN 25	PC.	29
5	Putty KNAUF-Fugen	kg	0,6
6	Reinforcing tape	linear m	1,5
7	Dowel K 6/35	PC.	1,6
8	Sealing tape	linear m	1,2
9	Primer KNAUF-Tiefengrund	l	0,2
10	Mineral wool thermal insulation KNAUF	sq. m	1,0
11	KNAUF-profile PU	PC.	*

* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of the structure.

Attention! To simplify calculations when building a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the main material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step-by-step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let’s be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of neighbors and begin installing the structure.

Expert advice: Any construction works with the use of plasterboard should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. It is better to install structures before finishing the floors and painting work. Before creating a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and marking

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the location of its installation and draw up a schematic plan according to which the markings will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have drawn is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, you need to add the thickness of the plasterboard slabs and its finishing layer.

Installation of sheathing

Having finished with the markings, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to production. metal frame our partition:

Using an angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors, we will cut pieces of the UW guide profile to the required length. We glue a sealing strip on the back side of the blanks. damper tape, softening sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.
Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibration
We secure the strips along the horizontal marking line, drilling holes for dowel-nails with a hammer drill (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen It is recommended to start with the top guide located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot” with a plumb line from there the correct installation of the floor profile.
We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a hammer drill and hammer in the fasteners
We will install vertical guides, securing them to the load-bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and checking the correct installation using a building level. Note that fastening the metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel nails (6x60 or 8x60).
When mounting the guides to the load-bearing walls, we check the verticality using a building level
Let's form doorway, installing reinforced profile racks in the marked location. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper parts of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut two strips of the CW profile given size. There are several options for strengthening the parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack profile and secure it on both sides with self-tapping metal screws (every 150–200 mm) or strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, selecting it in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.
We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws
Let's install the reinforced rack into the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (here a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict verticality of the element with a level and secure the part with metal screws. Let's mount the second rack in a similar way.
When installing the rack, first install it in the lower guide, then carefully place it in the upper
We will set up the racks from the CW profile in increments of 600 mm, starting from any of load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, and fasten them with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should be in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets, which have a standard width of 1200 mm, will be joined.
The rack profile is attached to the guides with metal screws
Let's mount the horizontal lintel (upper beam) of the doorway. Let's cut a piece from the guide profile strip 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip the right size with blind ends.
A wooden beam can be inserted inside the upper beam of the opening, further strengthening the structure
Install a jumper between the pillars of the opening in in the right place(we will take into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing flooring), check the horizontal level with a building level and secure the part with self-tapping metal screws. This structural element can also be strengthened by any of the methods mentioned.
If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to manufacture and install additional stiffening ribs - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made similarly to the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal screws.
Option for placing transverse lintels in a frame with a height of more than 3 m
Inside the finished frame of the partition we will install embedded elements made of profiles, strong thick plywood or timber, to which hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces can be attached. After this, we will install the electrical wiring, placing it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.
Wooden beams need to be secured in places where heavy wall cabinets and other massive interior elements are installed.

At this point, the work on installing the frame is completed; you can move on to the next, no less important stage of creating the partition.

Sheathing the frame with installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with special insulating material. Many years of practice show that an inexpensive but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Mineral wool slabs will reliably retain heat and also insulate the room from extraneous noise

Expert advice: In order to fill the frame of an interior room partition, purchase slabs or mats of mineral wool of the required thickness - material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and conveniently placed between the elements of the sheathing.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

Let's cover one side of the frame with plasterboard, starting with a whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm pitch for racks from the CW profile began. Remember that when installing gypsum boards, you must leave a gap of 5–10 mm at the junction of the slab with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and the appearance of cracks.
Installation of the sheathing is carried out from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began
We attach the cladding sheet to the profile by tightening the gypsum board screws around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of the self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.
The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall
Using a jigsaw or knife, we cut the remaining sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets join exactly in the middle of the rack profile.
We join the sheets of drywall exactly in the middle of the profile
Having closed one side of the frame, we lay the insulating material inside, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the posts.
Place mineral wool slabs cut to size between the sheathing posts
We install the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fastening the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.
We close the other side of the frame with gypsum board, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)
We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets in the place where the doorway is installed with a corner profile.

Attention! When installing gypsum plasterboard sheathing, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - to fasten the extension or parts of non-standard size, you will have to insert additional elements profile into the frame.

Final chords

Having finished covering the partition frame, we will insert the door block into it and resolve the issue of finishing the drywall surface. If a strict vertical line was observed when installing the opening, installing the block will not cause any difficulties.

The issue of finishing the cladding surface is also resolved quite simply:

Now the partition with the door is ready for any type of finishing - it can be wallpapered, painted, applied ceramic tiles or decorative plaster- it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For a more detailed introduction to the process of installing a frame structure covered with plasterboard, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a partition from gypsum plasterboard and install a door

Many years of professional experience show that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing plasterboard for installing additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to use and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap. We hope that now you can do this work yourself without any problems.

Our topic today is an interior wall made of plasterboard. We will figure out how to build a frame for a plasterboard partition, how to sheathe it, how to install window and door blocks, how to make an arch vault and how to ensure maximum sound insulation of the wall. Let's get started.

Lesson 1: Frame

How to install an interior plasterboard wall that is strong enough and provides acceptable sound insulation? Obviously, you need to start with installing the frame (see Installing a frame under drywall on a wall with your own hands). For its construction, the author strongly advises using not a block, but a galvanized profile for installing gypsum boards.

There are several reasons:

Profiles have ideal geometry, but bars often cannot boast of it;
Wood warps when humidity fluctuates. Galvanized steel carries them without deformation;

The tree suffers from rot and insect activity, unlike its competitor. Antiseptic impregnation partly solves the problem, but only partly – with stable high humidity(typical, for example, for the operating conditions of a wall bordering a bathroom), the wood can still rot.

To build the frame we will need two types of profiles:

Image	Description
	Rack profile CW with a width of 50 mm and a thickness of 50-100 mm. The thickness is selected depending on the requirements for the rigidity of the partition and whether it is necessary to lay any large-section communications in its frame (sewerage, air ducts of the ventilation system, etc.). The length of the profile must be equal to or exceed the height of the ceiling, and the number of racks is selected for a step between them of 60 centimeters.
	The UW guide profile is responsible for attaching the frame to adjacent structures. Its thickness corresponds to the thickness of the racks, with a fixed height of the side walls of 40 mm. The total length of all guide profiles must be at least equal to the perimeter of the future wall.

In addition to profiles, purchases will include:

Damper tape with a width corresponding to the width of the guides. Its task is to reduce the number of acoustic vibrations transmitted to capital structures from the partition frame;

Tip: instead of damper tape, you can use rolled polyethylene foam cut into strips, which is used as insulation and a backing for laminate and parquet.

Metal screws for connecting guides to racks. Length - 9 mm;
Dowel screws for mounting guides.

Attention! IN wooden house the guides are fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws with a length of at least 40 mm.

Installation of the frame is carried out in the following order:

We mark the line of the partition on the floor, then, using a plumb line and a long ruler or profile, we transfer the markings to the ceiling and walls;
We fasten the guides along the markings, placing a damper tape under the profile. The fastener pitch is no more than half a meter. To cut the profile, use only metal scissors: abrasive cutting with a grinder is contraindicated for thin galvanized metal, since its heating leads to zinc burnout and the appearance of rust in the future;
We mark the positions of the racks. The pitch is exactly 60 cm along the axes of the rack profiles. In this case, the seams between adjacent sheets of sheathing will be in the middle of the racks;

Let us remind you: the standard width of a sheet of wall plasterboard is 120 cm.

We cut to height and arrange the racks. We attach each of them to the guides with metal screws on both sides. The frame is ready.