Metal-plastic windows made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are considered to be a qualitatively new level of comfort in our home.
When installing such structures, you will need the help of a professional, but how to adjust plastic devices yourself during everyday use is given below in the recommendations.
Replacing the traditional old wooden windows modern ones, it is necessary to periodically inspect the operation of the opening and closing mechanisms, the condition and functioning of the fittings, which will increase their durability and functionality.
Tools and places for adjusting plastic window fittings
We recommend that serious breakdowns and malfunctions be adjusted by specialists from the Windows Expert company ()
The most common malfunctions that can be dealt with without the help of a specialist:
- When closing, the transom touches the frame from below or from the side.
- The fit to the transom frame is not tight enough.
- The locking bars are worn.
- When the sash is open in the “closed” mode, it does not open window frame due to the handle being blocked.
- The handle, loosened, does not fit tightly to the frame or is very difficult to turn.
You can troubleshoot using the following tool:
- pliers or pliers;
- hex key (size 4 mm);
- flat and figured (phillips) screwdrivers;
- a set of “star keys” for adjusting the clamping force;
- scissors for cutting the seal;
- oil can for lubricating fittings.
Basic rules for setting up PVC windows yourself
In modern metal-plastic windows To achieve optimal pressing of the seal along the entire perimeter of the sash, adjustment is carried out in three projections.
Individual elements, settings of transom fittings and tools may differ, but the instructions given below are used as a basis.
Summer and winter adjustment mode
A distinctive characteristic of modern PVC window fittings is the ability to switch them to “winter” or “summer” modes.
Window fittings are:
- budget;
- standard;
- specialized.
Due to the low price of accessories budget type has limited functionality. It is produced mainly domestic producers and is used in new buildings. Such metal fittings do not have the function of switching between different seasons; it only allows the transom to close and open.
At the moment, plastic windows are popular products for many users. Almost every apartment has PVC windows installed in at least one room. During operation, various problems may appear. For example, the handle may not turn, the windows may stick, or there may be other problems with closing and opening the windows. To solve these problems, you need to know how to adjust plastic windows.
Plastic windows may stop functioning properly not only due to long periods of use. If we take into account the average service life of windows (more than 15 years), then the owners of these double-glazed windows are unlikely to encounter any difficulties. But problems happen, and very often. If it is not possible to call a specialist or you do not want to spend extra money on repairs, then you can do the basic work on adjusting the PVC windows yourself, which will allow you to get rid of large number problems.
For what problems and when is adjustment required?
You need to adjust plastic windows yourself as needed. If a certain problem arises, you need to immediately look for effective ways to eliminate it. Even if the initial “calibration” is done correctly, problems may arise later. They are associated with deformation of fastening elements, improper operating techniques, violation of tightness, structural integrity, etc.
By using self-adjustment plastic windows can eliminate the following problems:
- The handle turns with difficulty or does not turn. The cause of the problem is a lack of lubrication or the sash being lowered. To solve the problem, you need to lubricate all moving elements, then remove the plug. Use a screwdriver to determine where the moving roller is moving incorrectly. After identifying the problem, you need to tighten the screw with a screwdriver.
- The handle is loose. Problems arise with fittings all the time. They are resolved in a couple of minutes. Here is the plate, which is located under the plug. It rotates 90 degrees. To solve the problem, you need to tighten it with screws using a suitable screwdriver.
- When torn off, the middle part of the sash catches the frame. Often the reason lies in the vertical or horizontal displacement of the sash. The situation can be resolved by calibrating the sash lift.
- The lower part of the sash is sagging, and when opening it touches the frame. This problem is quite common and occurs when sash windows sag. This problem can be solved by vertical or horizontal adjustment lifting the sash.
- Blowing. In cases where a slight draft begins to be felt from under the insulation, you need to independently adjust the sash pressure.
If you cannot independently and accurately understand the reason, you need to seek help from a professional. It's better to pay for minor repairs than to replace broken parts later.
Tools required for adjustment
To adjust plastic windows yourself, you need a few tools. When setting up, use:
- Pliers.
- Phillips screwdriver size 3 or 4.
- Star and Phillips screwdriver bits (often they should be marked “TX” or “T”).
- A set of hexagons (a 4 mm hexagon must be included in the kit).
- Regular machine oil and universal WD-40 aerosol.
Basically, only a hexagon is used; in everyday life it is called a furniture key. This metal small hexagonal rod has an L-shape. For convenient use it can be S-shaped.
Star attachments are needed to work with certain models accessories. Because of this, it is better to use several similar attachments. Craftsmen often fasten fittings with ordinary screws using a Phillips screwdriver, so this is what you will need for adjustment.
The adjustment process is greatly simplified in case of malfunction sliding windows. IN this option all work comes down to adjusting the roller carriages, which are designed to fasten the sash.
The main adjustment points for metal-plastic windows
There are a total of 5 adjustment points on the window that allow you to make the correct settings. Let's look at how to adjust plastic windows:
- The upper part of the sash is adjusted horizontally in the area of the upper hinge.
- The lower angle of the sash in the area of the lower hinge is adjustable horizontally.
- The place for adjusting the vertical position of the sash is located in the lower hinge.
- In the area of the eccentric locking pin, the pressing force of the sash is adjusted.
- Another way to adjust the sash pressing force is to adjust the lower locking pin.
Using the above points, you can calibrate all possible window positions. All manufacturers use standard window models, so if your plastic double-glazed windows are not made according to individual order, there will be no difficulties in adjusting each point.
Immediately after searching for these points, you should check them for deformation. If deformations are present, then you should immediately contact a specialist. If garbage is found, you should remove it and try again the action that was previously performed with difficulty.
Adjusting the pressure of the window sash to the frame
If the plastic windows you are using do not close properly, and the sashes are not pressed tightly against the frame, then you will need to adjust the plastic windows yourself.
This work is performed using a hex key, which must be turned in one of the directions:
- Down or up from the frame.
- Left or right.
- Adjustment of sash pressure density.
In some cases, problems with closing windows occur due to shrinkage of the house. When inspecting the window, you need to pay attention to the eccentrics that are installed around the perimeter and are part of the window fittings. They will move and move past the pressure pads being used when you try to turn the handle.
To navigate the degree of pressure, you need to pay attention to the marks on the eccentrics. If the lines point towards the street side, then the clamp is weak, but if on the contrary, then the clamp is too tight.
If the clamping mechanism is located in the same place as the hinges, then adjustment is made using a screwdriver or hexagon. The choice will depend on the design of the design fittings.
Determine the degree of pressure by eye window sash you can by the way the tongue is located on it. The more it is extended, the higher the degree of pressure. If the hexagon is rotated counterclockwise, the sash forces will be reduced.
In cases where none of the options allows you to press the sash to the frame, you need to call a qualified specialist who this problem can solve it faster.
Adjusting the hinges
In most cases, plastic window designs are not equipped with a window. The ventilation process can only be carried out after the sash is set to a certain mode.
Too large a gap between the sash and the frame in extreme cold will contribute to strong cooling in the room.
It is necessary to find a “golden mean” so that the gap during ventilation is somewhat smaller. Therefore, you can adjust the pressure of the window hinges so that there is no draft. First you need to determine the location of the blower. If this place is located near the bottom hinge, then a hexagon is needed. You need to remove the cap and start adjusting according to the instructions.
The sash must be set, the handle must be turned to ventilation mode and the top hinge must be pressed. At closed window it is impossible to reach the screw responsible for the degree of clamping of the loop.
In some window designs There are special blockers that disable the ability to open the window. If the handle dangles, this will only make the problem worse.
You need to slightly lift the plastic plate located next to the base of the handle, and then rotate it 90 degrees. After this, the screws will be visible, which need to be tightened with a screwdriver until they stop.
If the handle does not turn well, the fittings need to be lubricated. machine oil: eccentrics, hinges, clamping mechanisms.
You need to check the fittings and window structure at least once a year, even if nothing bothers you about its operation. Adjustment will allow you to quickly solve problems yourself.
Winter and summer mode
Plastic windows often need to be adjusted for the winter. It is in winter that complete sealing is necessary. In the summer you can let in some fresh air. This is achieved by adjusting the pressure density of the sash. Everything is done in an elementary way.
When adjusting the fittings, you should remember that the summer mode corresponds to a weak window closing pressure, and the winter mode corresponds to a strong or standard one. If work is carried out in winter, then first you should set the standard position and check whether there is airflow. On new PVC, you should not immediately pinch the rubber bands. In this position rubber compressor, installed around the perimeter, is pressed tightly. Over time, this causes it to lose its elasticity.
If you immediately set maximum level pressure, the rubber will deteriorate faster. As a result, the next time you set the plastic windows to the winter position, you will find the elastic all in cracks, and there will still be blowing from under the sash. This means that the seal needs to be replaced. It's not very difficult process, but it will take more time.
Let's highlight the main requirements for PVC windows to last as long as possible at different times of the year:
- Do the adjustments yourself correctly so that you don’t have to make repairs. plastic window.
- Insulation materials must be replaced promptly when worn out.
- In summer, loosen the pressure.
- IN winter mode the fittings should not be left for the whole year.
Cleaning the fittings from accumulated dust
Adjusting fittings and repairing plastic windows is associated with high-quality care of the structure. It is necessary to provide deep cleansing in hard to reach places from accumulated dirt. If you don’t clean your windows in a timely manner, sooner or later you will have to repair them again because their functionality has been compromised due to debris. The process of repairing plastic windows is very labor-intensive due to the weight of the structure, so it is better to carry out this work with assistants.
To put the elements in order, use the following adjustment scheme:
- The sash is removed from its hinges, and the overhead frame elements are inserted.
- The top axle is removed.
- The sash is removed from the lower hinges.
- Carefully set it aside.
Then the area of the sash is inspected and the screws attached to it are unscrewed. The parts of the mechanism should be well lubricated; it is advisable to use specialized solutions that are convenient to apply with a brush. After completing the procedure, the structure must be dried thoroughly using cold air from a hair dryer. fresh air. Lubricant is applied to each driving mechanism, after which the fittings are assembled into reverse order, and then installed in its original place. Be sure to apply lubricant to each window hinge after adjusting the plastic windows.
It is technically easy to adjust a plastic window. Enough to use detailed instructions, and follow the recommendations themselves in strict order.
The process of adjusting window fittings on plastic windows may depend on the manufacturer. There are varieties that are adjusted with screwdrivers located on the side of the handles. They can be adjusted using a hex key.
Setting all positions for the adjustment points can be done even without experience. The only requirement is to be careful. If calibrated incorrectly, the plastic window may stop functioning correctly, after which you will have to call a technician to re-adjust it.
Under reliable protection
So that wooden structures and under open air maintained their stability for a long time, it is necessary to pay special attention to the structural protection of wooden and metal parts.
Rain and wind won't matter!
As a rule, metal rusting and wood rotting occur unnoticed. Both processes proceed slowly and make themselves felt only when the roof over the porch threatens to fall on the owners’ heads. Not only that - rotten wood and rusty metal parts Over time, they can become a threat to the stability of the entire structure.
Any anti-corrosion protection is designed to protect the metal from exposure to moisture and oxygen. As a rule, this can be achieved by applying special coatings to steel parts. Some of them, such as chromium, combine with steel chemical reaction, others form a film on the surface of the metal, including from a special powder.
When working with wood, in addition to weatherproof impregnation, the most the best remedy from rotting is constructive protection. It basically eliminates the contact of the tree with rainwater and moisture from the soil.
Screws, as a rule, are galvanized or passivated - the latter have a characteristic yellow or dark blue color.
For dark types of wood, blackened screws can also be used, but their anti-corrosion protection is weaker.
Screws from of stainless steel – the best choice when constructing a structure that will be located in the open air.
Formatted screws(1) are used primarily for dry finishing of premises. If, when working with drywall, you use galvanized screws(2), then over time they will attract moisture and become visible through the paint layer. But with the blacks, phosphated screws this won't happen. Chrome/passivated screws(3) can be recognized by its yellowish color. They offer some protection against corrosion, but should not be exposed to constant rain. Stainless steel screws and bolts(4) – twice as expensive, but guaranteed not to corrode.
The phrase “high-quality steel” does not say anything about the resistance of steel angles or other fasteners to corrosion. Only through special processing or the addition of other metals does steel become corrosion-resistant. The four most common methods for protecting steel from rust and weathering are briefly described below.
The degree of anti-corrosion protection that each of these methods provides is different, which also affects the price of products processed by one or another method. High-quality stainless steel fasteners are the most expensive, but they certainly won’t have any problems with corrosion.
Most a budget option- parts made of galvanized steel. But if you want to prevent these parts from rusting, make sure that their coating remains intact. The same applies to powder coated products. Chrome plating is somewhat more resistant to corrosion, but its yellowish color does not always suit the design.
1. Chrome plated
When chrome plating, pre-galvanized steel parts are dipped in chromic acid, as a result of which a chrome film is formed on the products. She gives very good protection from corrosion of screws and other fasteners, which remains, as after galvanizing, for approximately 40 years. Just like bronze fasteners, chrome-plated products color scheme well suited to wood used outdoors.
2. Galvanized
When galvanizing, steel acquires a protective layer of zinc. During hot-dip galvanizing, parts are immersed in a bath of zinc heated to +450°C. When galvanizing, zinc is applied to the part.
in an electrolyte bath. Fasteners treated in this way retain their anti-corrosion properties for up to 40 years. True, salty air reduces this period to 25 years.
3. Stainless steel
High-quality stainless steel refers to types of steel that, due to the addition of chromium, nickel, molybdenum or titanium, become completely resistant to corrosion under normal atmospheric influences. At the same time, products with smooth surfaces are even more corrosion-resistant than rough ones, which is why some manufacturers subject their fasteners special grinding. However, it is wrong to assume that products
made of stainless steel are not subject to corrosion at all. Even this type of high-alloy steel is susceptible to two types of corrosion: crevice and pitting. To maintain a decent appearance, stainless steel requires regular washing. metal products warm water with surfactants.
4. Powder coated
Before applying the powder-varnish coating, the products are galvanized. The powder, then applied to the product, is melted in an oven at temperatures above +200°C. After cooling, a durable anti-corrosion coating is formed on the product. In order for the metal to retain its anti-corrosion properties for a long time, the coating must not be damaged.
This way the supports will last a long time!
Drive-in bases: they do not require concrete
During construction wooden structures, which will have to be located in the open air, it is very important that the tree does not have direct contact with the ground and therefore does not absorb moisture. Hot-dip galvanized pier bases are the easiest and most inexpensive means of installing piers stably and keeping them dry. On such supports you can install a lightweight structure made of wood or using frame technology.
When hammering the bases into the ground, special tools should be used: a plastic mallet and a plastic plug inserted inside the cartridge - this is where the blows should be struck. If you hit the metal directly with an ordinary hammer, you can damage the upper part of the product.
For optimal protection against moisture, the lower end of the support should be treated with a protective glaze. The holes drilled for fastening must also be impregnated with an antiseptic. Protective covering must be completely dry before installation can begin.
Here are two types of anchors for wood poles installed on a concrete foundation and protected from moisture. H-shaped anchor suitable for supports various sizes. The lower third of the anchor is filled with concrete. Those who find anchoring with a classic U-shaped anchor too noticeable can install the supports with virtually invisible anchors with a support shoe. A notch is made in the middle of the support, holes are marked in the support for mounting bolts, put the support on the central panel of the anchor and secure it with bolts. Then the support is concreted.
Supports buried in the ground sooner or later rot. Before the support collapses, its rotten part should be replaced. To do this, the support needs to be lightly dug up, cut down, and the lower part removed from the ground. The resulting gap between the support and the ground can be filled by installing a metal anchor on a concrete foundation. The lower part of the support should be replaced with a block of suitable size, securing it on both sides with two bars. A concreted wide H-shaped anchor will provide the support with the necessary stability; it is designed for a rack with a thickness of 70-140 mm.
PROTECTION FOR SUPPORTS AND TERRACES
Caps
To rainwater does not damage the tree, special caps are placed on top of the support, the top is sawed off at an angle or rounded off.
This will make your floors last longer.
Structural protection of wood is especially important when installing floors on outdoor terraces.
It will help extend the life of the floorboards. Firstly, the floor of the terrace must be arranged so that it has a slight slope in one direction - this way the water will drain from the terrace by itself.
The other two are simple, but effective techniques We illustrated with drawings.
Correct: the head of the screw remained on the surface of the board. Stainless steel self-tapping screws can break when screwed into hard wood, so you should always pre-drill holes with a slightly smaller diameter than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.
Bad: the head of the screw protrudes above the board or is dented. In the first case, you can get injured by catching on a self-tapping screw. In the second, a depression forms around the self-tapping screw and water collects.
A simple pommel made of galvanized steel can be bought for 140 rubles. in a construction supermarket.
The pommel, made of high-quality steel and decorated with a ball, costs almost 400 rubles.
Plastic tops are intended for children's furniture or playground structures. They protect the tree from rotting and children from injury. Price: 80 rub.
The upper part of the support without a top needs to be either rounded or cut at an angle so that rainwater drains quickly. In this case, the tree must be covered with a moisture-proof solution.
You can purchase a pole top made of wood.
Wood and wood products can be protected from excess moisture using structural and chemical measures.
Constructive measures are the creation of conditions for systematic ventilation and favorable humidity conditions: insulation of wood from soil, stone and concrete, installation of vents and channels for ventilation, protection from groundwater And atmospheric precipitation external structures. In the process of describing methods and options for constructing various wooden structures, we drew your attention to the features of using such measures in each individual case. IN general view they offer the following operations:
Protection of the upper horizontal and inclined edges of load-bearing wooden structures operated on outdoors, antiseptic boards, ridges and canopies made of galvanized roofing iron or other weather-resistant material;
Isolation wooden surfaces all kinds of rolls waterproofing materials and mastics from contact with stone, concrete structures, earth;
Waterproofing with gaskets and compounds of joints of structures operated in conditions where condensation is possible;
Installation of ventilation ducts in wall panels and coating structures communicating with outside air, and the use of vapor barriers;
Elimination of moisture accumulation in the external enclosing structures of heated premises during operation;
Drainage of water from roofs;
Insulation and sealing of seams between enclosing structures;
Laying between the frame and the sheathing a continuous continuous layer of rolled film materials - vapor barrier on the internal (warm) surface, thermal insulation on the external (cold) surface;
Availability of wooden structures for preventive repairs, restoration of protective wood processing, ventilation.
The combination of structural measures with chemical ones will allow you to significantly increase the protection of wooden structures from moisture.
Chemical measures are the treatment of wood with special moisture-proof hydrophobic substances, waterproof varnishes, paints, bioprotective and fire-retardant compounds.
Hydrophobic substances have the property of filling the capillary-vascular system of wood organic compounds. This significantly limits its ability to be wetted. Such substances include vegetable and mineral oils; in addition to their hydrophobic properties, polymers can increase wood’s resistance to fire. However, the technology for such processing is too complex and is carried out mainly in factory conditions.
Much easier to resort to surface coating wooden products and structures with varnishes and paints, especially since at the moment their choice of both domestic and imported production is quite wide.
Adding aluminum powder to paint or enamel will enhance the water-repellent properties and the ability to reflect heat rays, make it more difficult for wood to ignite, without weakening the moisture and air exchange of wood,
Another very simple way to chemically protect Wood from moisture is to coat it with drying oil with the addition of various resins, paints and pigments.
If you need to preserve the natural color and texture of wood, but at the same time protect it from moisture, then use waterproof transparent varnishes and various antiseptic compounds that have the properties of giving the wood a decorative appearance.
