There are many ideas for different crafts based on a bicycle and its individual parts. Among them are related to household work, in particular, tillage personal plots. The device in the form of a winch, powered by a bicycle drive, is simple and allows one person to perform plowing, hilling, and loosening operations without greatly tiring him.
To make a bicycle winch, you need a road bicycle of a conventional design with a closed frame. You will need: a broken motor from a moped, for example, type D-6; large bicycle sprocket; hub from a moped wheel together with an axle; metal corners, tubes, sheet.
The bike is not modified; Only the chain lengthens.
A small modification of the moped engine is being carried out. Cut out the upper wall of the cover and crankcase above the drive sprocket. This is done between the bosses, leaving them and the existing thread. Reduce by lathe the thickness of the sprocket ring gear is up to 2.6 mm - this is necessary to be able to place a bicycle chain on it.
The crankshaft is decompressed, the connecting rod is removed, and everything is compressed again. Graphite lubricant is placed in existing bearings. They make a lid from a sheet of metal and cover the place where the cylinder is attached. The crankshaft will play the role of a flywheel in the craft.
The converted motor is attached to bicycle frame, in its upper part. Place it with an asterisk down. The chain is lengthened so that it can cover three sprockets - two that are on a bicycle and one in a converted moped engine.
On the left side of the bicycle handlebar, install a handle and run a cable from it to the motor. It is used to control the clutch.
The converted bike is suitable for normal riding. To start driving you need to disengage the clutch. When the road goes downhill, it is turned on - the flywheel begins to rotate and store energy, which will help in the future to overcome climbs.
From a converted bicycle you can make a winch that will be used for household work. In place of its rear wheel, an attachment is installed, consisting of a frame carrying a winch drum equipped with a sprocket and a cable. It is also equipped with lugs and a cable management loop.
The drum is made from the hub of a moped wheel, to which round metal flanges are attached to the sides. Equipped with a large bicycle sprocket.
There are two lugs. They are made using 12-centimeter-long pieces of corners. The outer edges of the shelves are sharpened, which ensures their easy entry into the ground. The corners are welded to the edges of a half-meter piece of corner, which serves as a support on the surface of the earth.
For the cable loop, soft wire is used. It is attached to the frame so that the tensioned cable rests on the middle of the drum surface.
The attachment is attached to the bicycle in two places: with a pin in the place where the rear wheel is installed; clamps covering two frame tubes in the space between the first mount and the carriage with pedals.
First, the lower part of the attachment is assembled using welding. Then an axle is attached to it, on which the winch drum is installed. The upper part is placed on top and secured to the bicycle frame. In this case, the chain is first installed on all three sprockets.
Hi all!
I have long wanted to buy a winch. None of the store options costing up to 3,000 rubles. did not inspire confidence, and for a long time I thought about ways self-made winches.
Somehow I found information on the Internet that you can use a brake ratchet from a truck as a basis. The advantages of such a winch are that there is no need for a stopper, it works in both directions.
In addition to the standard set of tools, you will need electric welding.
Winch Application
Such a winch will help not only on the road, or rather off-road, but also in the garage. With its help, you can independently pull a faulty car into the garage, onto a mini overpass (2 boards and 2 stumps), it will also help you lift or lower the weight into the basement, and remove the engine from the car.Materials for manufacturing
- Ratchet az9100440005 - 587 rub.
- Pulley 21013701051 2x116 r. =232 rub.
- Rope 10 m x 30 r. = 300 rub.
Disassembling the Chinese ratchet
First, I cut off the rivets and removed the covers. I also unscrewed the plug and pulled out a spring and a ball - this was a worm stopper, it will no longer be needed.
Making a winch
It was decided to make two drums for uniform winding of the cable. To make the drum cheeks, collapsible VAZ generator pulleys were purchased.Although you can make such washers yourself, I liked this option better. No bearings were needed.
A 10 m long cable was also purchased.
I couldn’t find a shaft with the corresponding splines, and I didn’t really look for it, so I just decided to make a shaft from a tube and weld it into the gear.
The shaft was inserted into the gear with a gap; to select it, I decided to make a spacer from a thin-walled tube.
I cut out a centering insert from a thin-walled tube.
This is what the installed shaft looks like.
I welded the shaft to the gear and cooled the entire structure during testing. The rivet holes were threaded for screws.
Now it was necessary to widen the holes in the inner cheeks of the drums, for this you need a turner. Or a good driller)
Cheeks prepared for installation.
To reduce the size of the structure, the screw heads were cut down almost to the root, which resulted in a saving of 11 mm and a significant reduction in the amount of dirt getting between the cheeks and the ratchet body.
And the dirt that gets there anyway will come back out when the mechanism is injected. With the help of debris cutting wheel 1 mm thick, leveled the gap between the cheeks and the body and scalded.
It turned out something like this.
I painted it a little for appearance.
First winding of the cable. For now, by hand, it is unlikely that it will be wound as neatly at work.
I decided to adjust the length of the cable by simply pulling the excess to the side. The ends of the cable were soldered and slightly bent.
At first I wanted to find some kind of block for the cable, but I decided to just make an equalizer with a hook, because... the cable is wound almost evenly.
For the cable guides, I decided to use the inner races from single row ball bearings.
Having sawed through the outer clips, I removed the inner ones, and for some reason sawed them too.
I decided to weld the guides to the strip.
WITH reverse side I welded the hook, having previously selected a position in which the hook location would be in line with the guides.
Painted it for appearance.
I decided to do a little test.
I didn’t dig in on purpose, but such a winch pulls a stalled car. If you need more force, you can make a loop at one end of the cable and throw it over the drum. Instead of an equalizer, use a block. In this way, one side of the cable will be wound, the other will slide along the drum. In this case, the block will provide double traction.
Readers of "M-K" have long been familiar with an enthusiast of homemade soil-cultivating equipment, an amateur designer from Nizhny Tagil, Grigory Ivanovich ODEGOV. After all, it was he who managed to develop one of the most effective motorized winches, which is superior in performance to walk-behind tractors, rotary cutters, and even microtractors. And this despite the fact that the engine of Odegov’s motorized winch is just the power unit of an old Vyatka.
Today we present to you two bicycle winches with foot driven. One of them was developed by G.I. Odegov, and the other is a modernized version of Grigory Ivanovich’s winch, designed in the Eureka creative laboratory.
According to the designer of the bicycle winch, a pedal-driven tillage unit is much more efficient than both a shovel and a towed plow driven by the efforts of one or two people.
Pedal winch G.I. Odegova is arranged as follows. It is based on a light tubular frame on which a drum is mounted, the cheeks of which are ratchet wheels. Rocking pedals with ratchet latches are mounted on the same axis. Both pedals have springs that allow each to return to the top position. The ratchet latches are also spring loaded.
The winch frame is welded from steel pipes with a diameter of 22...32 mm. The drum is a piece of pipe with an outer diameter of about 300 mm, to which two steel disks with a diameter of 380 mm and a thickness of about 4 mm are welded. To turn these discs into ratchet wheels, G.I. Odegov cut asymmetrical teeth around the circumference of each - the depth of each is about 5 mm and the pitch is about 10 mm. In principle, the work could be made somewhat easier by cutting every second triangular depression - this is quite enough for normal operation ratchet mechanism.
In principle, it would be possible to make a simpler ratchet, as shown in our drawings. To do this, holes with a diameter of 8...10 mm are drilled along the circumference on the side surface of each of the drum cheeks. Of course, the design of the ratchet also changes, as shown in the picture of the modernized bicycle winch.
The pedal drive levers of such a unit are welded, made of round or steel pipes rectangular section. On one side of each of the levers a sleeve is welded - a piece steel pipe with an internal diameter of 20 mm, on the other - the pedal axles. The latter are easiest to pick up ready-made - from a bicycle, although it is not too difficult to make homemade ones by bending a steel strip about 3 mm thick into the shape of the letter P. When using homemade pedals, threaded rods welded to the axles can be used as axles. outside each of the pedal levers.
The axis of the drum and pedal drive levers is a steel rod with a diameter of 20 mm, the ends of which are machined to a length of 30 mm and have an M14 thread cut into them.
1 - drum cheek, 2 - drive lever, 3 - pedal, 4 - cable, 5 - longitudinal frame element, 6 - lock, 7 stand, 8 - strut, 9 - anchor, 10 - rear cross member, 11 - drum, 12 - front cross member, 13 - drum bushing, 14 - liners, 15 - drive lever hub, 16 - nut with washers, 17 - axis of the drum and winch drive levers, 18 - flange, 19 - ratchet pawl, 20 - ratchet spring, 21 - ear, 22 - return spring drive lever.
The drum of the modernized winch is a piece of steel pipe with an outer diameter of 300 mm, to which two steel disks with a thickness of 3 mm and a diameter of 380 mm are welded. In the center of each disk, holes with a diameter of 30 mm are drilled, and nylon bushings are pressed into them (fluoroplastic, textolite or bronze are also possible).
WINCH FOR LIFTING HATCH
The hatch that needs to be lifted is the entrance to a small warehouse for coal. At the end heating season the hatch is lowered, the cable with a carabiner is unhooked, wound onto a drum and you get a large yard with extra space for a car.
The entire structure was made without leaving home using welding, a grinder and a drill.
I’ll say right away that this winch opens my heavy hatch very slowly, about 8 minutes, but very easily, since I open it in the fall and close it in the spring, it doesn’t bother me. The fact is that the hatch is quite heavy; lifting it from the ground is very difficult, and I have problems with my back. Yes, and you need to think about the fact that someday you will be old and weak in advance.
Since the winch has a worm mechanism, after lifting the hatch, it cannot close spontaneously either in a strong wind, or even if you help it. Also, the position of the hatch can be fixed in any of the intermediate positions.
The worm mechanism itself is the so-called RATCHET from the brake system of the front axle of a ZIL truck. (located on the inner side of the wheel, with its help the brake pads are supplied) You can use ratchets from almost all Soviet trucks and buses with air brakes ZIL, MAZ, KAMAZ, KRAZ, LAZ buses with the only difference being the front ratchet from ZIL is the smallest and neatest of all, while it can withstand a load of up to half a ton in weight, and what can we say about ratchets from KAMAZ or KRAZ. Therefore, I recommend using the ZILOV ratchet.
For our design, the gearbox will have to be disassembled by removing the side metal covers (anthers), it’s good if they are bolted, I had them on rivets that I sawed off with a grinder. Next, in the holes for the rivets, you need to cut threads for bolts M5-M6, depending on the model of the ratchet.
To remove the gear itself from the housing, you must first dismantle the worm; to do this, you need to knock out the shaft with square splines for a 12 mm wrench. The shaft in the worm is simply pressed in without keys or stoppers, the most the best option squeeze it out with a press, but I knock it out with a small sledgehammer. In the gearbox housing there is a plug the size of 10 drops that will fall out after you start squeezing out the shaft.
IMPORTANT, before pressing, unscrew the plug under a flat screwdriver and then remove the spring and ball. In my design, the ball and spring are not used, you can throw them away.
We wash all parts in gasoline or solvent until clean metal.
Next, use a file to remove all burrs from the worm and gear that were formed during their operation. We use sandpaper to remove rust from all places that may impede the rotation of the worm and gear. It is IMPORTANT to ensure that after assembly the gearbox rotates easily by the shaft with your fingers and does not jam, otherwise in the future the mechanism will work with great difficulty.
All parts of the ratchet, including the housing and the gear, are easy to weld, so in my design the shaft is welded to the gear. The shaft is a 3/4 pipe inserted into the splines of the gear, after which nails of a suitable diameter are hammered between the pipe and the splines. It is advisable to do this when the gear is removed and the pipe is clamped vertically in a vice. It is important to center the shaft relative to the gear by driving the nails one opposite the other. Super accuracy is unnecessary because the shaft will rotate very slowly. Then we file the nails along the edge of the gear and weld around it.
We insert the gear simultaneously with the worm into the gearbox housing, and drive the shaft into the worm. In my case, the winch is welded to a metal embedded in the wall, so the original boots were replaced with 3 mm plates. and secured with M5 bolts. Since the shaft only comes out on one side, one of the boots is made tight so that debris does not get into the gearbox.
Next we need to make a drum on the shaft for winding the cable. To do this you need to make two washers from sheet metal thickness of at least 3 mm. I used ready-made ones, left after disassembling Soviet 10-watt audio speakers (photos No. 6 and No. 10). The washers are welded directly to the shaft because the gearbox is very reliable and it is unlikely that you will ever have to disassemble it, and if it breaks, spare parts for it are still not sold, you will have to take out the entire tribrush.
The ear to which the carabiner is hooked on the hatch is part of the ratchet body cut off to reduce its size.
The ratchet has a plug with an M 10 thread with a fine pitch; usually, instead of it, a grease can is screwed in for lubrication with grease, but in my case it was a plug, so lubrication took place in the following way: the plug was unscrewed, a syringe for grease was taken, and the head for grease was unscrewed from it ( there is the same thread as on a plug or oil can) the tube with the syringe is screwed directly into the ratchet body, after which we lubricate the ratchet with grease until it comes out of all the holes.
I think everything else is clear from the photographs.
A few words about the winch from RATCHETKA: the author worked as a garage mechanic for a long time and initially used a similar mechanism to remove and install the gearbox from GAZ and ZIL trucks, and this was done alone and without much effort. (If anyone is interested, write to me, I will send sample drawings).
There was an option to use it in the garage as a hoist for removing the engine from passenger cars Moreover, the winch was attached to the wall of the garage and the cable from the winch through two blocks, first to the ceiling and then to the center of the gate and to the hook.
Here are similar designs of ratchet winches with good detailed photographs
I will be glad if someone finds this useful!
| Updated June 15, 2013. Created May 22, 2011 | |||||||||
