The armored belt device increases strength load-bearing walls and the resistance of the entire structure various loads: uneven shrinkage of soils and objects, exposure to wind, seismic vibrations and temperature changes.
Armored belt device photo
Formwork for armored belt. Types and methods of device
Armopoyas is a monolithic reinforced concrete structure. The belt has a circular outline, fits on the walls, and has no breaks (gaps) in its body. The solution to the question: how to properly make an armored belt begins with the installation of formwork. The most accessible formwork material is board. The formwork for the armored belt is made either from separate boards or from ready-made wooden panels, connected to each other from the outside with wooden scraps. The bottom of the boards is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. At the top, the opposite walls of the formwork are connected wooden ties(on nails). The spacing of the ties is 80 cm, but not more than 100 cm.
Do-it-yourself armored belt
When making an armored belt with your own hands, you can use another option for creating it, in which the formwork is not wooden structures, and the U-shaped blocks are made of aerated concrete. Trough blocks are laid the same width as the wall, and have a cavity inside for laying connected reinforcement frame and concrete. It is especially advantageous to install a belt with such “formwork” on external walls, because side walls U-shaped blocks perform the functions of insulation and eliminate the formation of cold “bridges”. The disadvantage of tray blocks is their high price.
How to make an armored belt with high quality
Geometric and specifications monolithic design determined by calculation. Usually the width of the belt is equal to the width of the wall, 30-50cm. Since the support of the prefabricated or monolithic ceiling on the walls is only 120cm (in practice - 150-200cm), then based on this, the width of the belt can be taken smaller. The recommended height of the armored belt is 30cm.
In cottages where it is planned to create light floors, installation in the belt is allowed flat frame. The ladder frame is prepared directly on the wall, directly in the formwork. It consists of 2 rods (for a wide wall 3 rods) of a periodic profile (calculated diameter), connected to each other by transverse rods. The pitch of the rods is 50 cm. The armored belt under the floor slabs carries more than high loads. Therefore, the frame is made three-dimensional from 4 or 6 longitudinal reinforcing bars and tied with transverse wire clamps.
Armopoyas for aerated concrete
The frame must have a protective layer of concrete of 4-5 cm on all sides. From below it is laid on supports made of brick or concrete chips. It should be noted that an armored belt is installed on aerated concrete not only on external walls, but also on load-bearing ones internal walls. And if along the length of the wall transverse rods and clamps can be connected with knitting wire, then at the corners of the structure and in places where the frame branches into internal load-bearing walls, the connection of longitudinal reinforcement and cross members performed by welding. The level of the frame is set strictly horizontally.
Armobelt under the Mauerlat
When installing truss structure roof, its bottom row - Mauerlat, is attached to the load-bearing wall with special anchors and studs. Herself rafter system creates a bursting load, which can lead to deformation of the walls. Armored belt under the roof ensures wall strength and stable rigidity roofing system. It will be executed similarly to the device procedure monolithic belt under the ceiling. The armored belt under the Mauerlat serves both to distribute the load over the entire surface of the wall and to insert fasteners for the Mauerlat itself.
How to fill an armored belt
Problem: how to fill the armored belt is solved at the final stage of constructing a monolithic structure. For pouring, you can use ready-made commercial concrete mix M200 (B15). Another option is to produce concrete using construction site. M400 cement, sand and crushed stone are taken in a ratio of 1:3:5. All components are loaded into a concrete mixer, water is added to the desired consistency and mixed. It is important that concrete is poured into the formwork continuously and not in parts. To remove air bubbles from the mixture, after pouring the concrete mixture should be vibrated or the concrete should be intensively pierced along the entire length of the belt with a piece of reinforcement.
Reinforced belt for aerated concrete made of bricks
In practice, as an option for strengthening wall structures, an armored belt for aerated concrete is sometimes made from brick. It consists of ordinary masonry solid brick, reinforced with reinforcement. Reinforcement is carried out with masonry mesh made of wire: 4-5 mm through each row of masonry in height. The solution is cement-sand in a ratio of 1:4. The height of the brick belt is taken from 20 cm to 40 cm. The width of the belt can correspond to the width of the wall, but perhaps narrower. Of course, an armored belt made of brick cannot be called equivalent in strength characteristics to a reinforced concrete belt. However, it is reliable when building houses in areas with low seismic activity or for the construction of auxiliary facilities and outbuildings.
Insulation of armored belt
To reinforced belt did not become a “bridge” of cold and in order to avoid the formation of condensation on it, it is necessary to insulate the armored belt. Therefore, a monolithic or brick belt, most often, is not made to cover the entire width of the wall, but with an indentation from its outer edge. It is important to maintain a minimum width of the reinforced belt, equal to 20 cm for concrete and 25 cm for brick. The resulting longitudinal niches are filled heat-insulating material, which are partition aerated concrete blocks laid on spoons (10 cm), expanded polystyrene slabs and other materials.
A reinforced monolithic or brick belt provides building construction houses made of aerated concrete blocks with increased strength. And for all household members, it becomes a guarantor of a safe, long and happy stay in a new home.
If the house is built from block materials, then it is often exposed to natural influences. In particular, the building settles, the soil around it swells, etc. Well, strong winds and long rainfalls have a negative impact on the integrity of the structure. To protect against such influences, an armored belt is created with your own hands from concrete on top of the walls. In our article we would like to talk about the manufacturing technology of the reinforcing belt, as well as its purpose.
Purpose and design of armored belt
Reinforcing belt (seismic belt) - increases the reliability of the house and prevents the appearance of cracks. They, in turn, are formed when the soil moves or acts on it. atmospheric precipitation. Such an element helps to evenly distribute the loads from heavy structures located above it.
For example, concrete floors laid just on top of the reinforcing belt. Many people make the mistake of thinking that wooden floors do not need. This is far from true - this element is needed to close the walls of any house. IN in this case, the type of overlap does not matter. After all, as you know, houses are built to last for many centuries, and not for a short time.
Construction of an armored belt: stages of work and their features
In private residential buildings from block materials to create additional protection from displacement and deformation of load-bearing walls and structural elements, the construction of an armored belt is provided.
A similar reinforced concrete structure is built around the perimeter of the house.
It allows you to reduce and redistribute stress on the walls and foundation that appears as a result of seismic activity, the influence of wind, and loads from the internal structural elements of the house. But in order to properly make such a building assembly, you will need to install reliable formwork.
It usually consists of panels made of wood or plywood, needed to give the concrete the necessary dimensions and shape. 
It can be vertical - columns and supports - and horizontal. To make an armored belt, you need horizontal formwork.
The basic requirements for such a design are:
- Strength;
- Rigidity;
- Waterproof;
- Easy to install and remove;
- Possibility of secondary use;
- Small price.
When erecting a building, the reinforcing belt is made several times. This number depends on how many floors there are in the house, what the material of the walls and ceilings is. The main load-bearing reinforced belt is poured at the stage of foundation construction. The safety of the building depends on how well it is made.
The second belt is installed on blocks or plinths. Then the armored belt is installed floor by floor up to the roof, laying floor slabs above them.
The formwork structure must be installed immediately along the perimeter of the belt filling. If this is not possible, then first place it at the corners and junctions of the walls. To get more smooth surface, the shields are covered with polyethylene.
Material selection
Before installing the formwork under the armored belt, you need to select suitable material. It could be:
- Metal;
- Tree;
- Sheet materials - chipboard, plywood, plastic;
- Combinations of different materials.
The type of wall mounting depends on the material used. Formwork elements for the reinforcing belt are often made from planed edged boards at least 25 mm thick and 150–200 mm wide. 
Application more wide boards It is impractical; they become deformed due to humidity, and the armored belt will turn out uneven. The boards are mounted into panels, the bottom of which is called the deck.
Height of armored belt
The height of a typical armored belt is 300 mm, and its width corresponds to the thickness of the wall or foundation slab. To assemble the formwork you need to stock up on planed boards. 
Nails are driven in with inside, stitching the boards through and bending them on the other side. The boards are connected with bars or cuttings of boards.
Fastening wooden formwork
An economical temporary structure can be assembled from boards using the following technological method:
- The lower part - the starting board - is attached to the walls along the perimeter of the building on both sides. It is usually fixed with screws.
- Subsequent formwork boards are placed above the first and hammered into panels using scraps of timber or planks. Before attaching the boards, you need to make sure that they are vertical.
- As a result, along the perimeter of the walls you should get a rectangle without gaps with a sidewall height of 300 mm.
The required rigidity is given to the formwork by vertically stuffing scraps of boards. They are attached with outside every 700 mm. It is necessary to install wire ties between the parallel panels in increments of 80–100 cm so that the pressure of the concrete does not squeeze out the wooden barriers. 
The final part of the installation is checking the quality of installation. Make sure the structure is strong enough to not collapse under pressure. concrete mortar. Check the verticality of the sidewalls so that the armored belt does not come out crooked.
Inspect the shape of the structure for any cracks, this will help prevent concrete leakage.
Small cracks are covered with tow or polyurethane foam, those that are more than 10 mm wide are clogged with an overhead strip.
The armored belt formwork is fixed to a wall made of brick or foam block using hardware 9–10 cm long. Holes are drilled in the sidewall and wall in increments of 70–100 cm into which dowels are installed, then the panels are pressed tightly against the wall with self-tapping screws.
Installation on foundation blocks is somewhat more complicated. The width of such a block is 600 mm; much more concrete mortar will be required than on a wall reinforced belt. This structure is made from boards 35–40 mm thick. It should be secured differently. The sidewalls are tightened together using studs and nuts through holes drilled in the panels.
Pieces of pipes that are the length of the width of the formwork are placed on the studs. Any will do, as long as the pin moves inside without any problems.
The hairpin with a pipe serves as a support and lower fastening of the shields. The top is secured with bars. After the concrete has set, the formwork is removed. First, the upper and then the lower clamps are removed, and the shields are dismantled. The studs are carefully removed from the pipes. Then the pipes are sealed with mortar or foamed with polyurethane foam.
If there are no studs, they can be replaced wooden blocks, installed inside the formwork and secured to the panels with self-tapping screws. After dismantling, the bars remain in the concrete.
Installation of permanent formwork
The easiest option for self-constructing an armored belt. The use of ready-made blocks allows you to quickly create a concrete structure. 
Application helps to get rid of cold bridges that certainly appear in an unprotected reinforced concrete belt.
Formwork blocks are produced in different sizes and shapes, which facilitates quick and easy installation of the armored belt required size. For simplicity, they are equipped with tongue-and-groove locks, this further simplifies the work.
Manufacturing of reinforcement cage
Further arrangement of the armored belt consists of laying the reinforcement cage. For reinforcement, steel rods with a cross-section of 8 mm or more are used. They are fastened to each other with wire and placed in a mold in a horizontal position. 
Every 50 cm, the rods are secured with a ring of soft steel wire.
Pouring concrete
Concrete can be fed into the formwork from a mixer tray or directly from a concrete pump. In the latter case, a higher quality mixture with additives is proposed. But this option is more expensive. 
You can save money and make a chute through which concrete will be supplied yourself. Or use a bell. It's filling up cement mortar, then, on in the right place The drain hole opens and the mixture flows into the formwork. It needs to be properly leveled.
While pouring from concrete mixture It is necessary to remove air bubbles - they accelerate the destruction of the structure.
This is usually done using deep vibrators. If installed permanent formwork, their use is undesirable.
Watch the video:
The sides of the removable formwork are removed after a couple of days, and the deck three days later so that the concrete can set better. A clean and dried structure can be used again.
They call it an armored belt reinforced concrete structure, which is designed to strengthen the walls of the house. This is necessary to protect the walls from loads arising under the influence of external/internal factors. External factors include wind exposure, terrain slope/hilliness, floating soil and seismic activity of the earth. The list of internal factors includes all household construction tools, used for interior decoration Houses. If you make an armored belt incorrectly, then due to these phenomena the walls will simply crack, and what’s even worse, they will corrode. In view of this, it is very important to be aware of how to make an armored belt. The types, purpose and method of installation of the armored belt will be discussed in this article.
There are 4 types of armored belt:
- grillage;
- basement;
- interfloor;
- under the Mauerlat.
Before starting work, you should prepare the following tools/materials:
- Fittings.
- Cement.
- Sand.
- Crushed stone.
- Wire for tying reinforcement.
- Boards.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Brick.
- Shovel.
- Crowbar/crowbar.
To ensure that all the work you perform is done with high quality, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the techniques for manufacturing reinforced mesh/framework and formwork.
In order for the reinforced belt to be of high quality, and therefore the house to be reliable, you need to know how to properly make the reinforced mesh/frame. The connection of the reinforcement bars to each other is carried out using a knitting wire, and not a welding seam. This is due to the fact that during welding, the area near the seam being made overheats, which leads to a weakening of the strength of the reinforcement. But you can’t do without welding seams when making mesh. The middle and ends of the frame are welded, while the remaining connecting nodes are tied together.
The rods are fastened to fix the reinforcement in the required position when pouring concrete. For these purposes, thin wire is used; the strength of the mesh/frame does not depend on it.
For the manufacture of armored belts, only ribbed rods are used. Concrete clings to the ribs, which helps increase load-bearing capacity designs. Such a belt can work in tension.
To make a frame, take 2 wires 12 mm thick and 6 m long, while for transverse reinforcement you will need rods 10 mm thick. The transverse reinforcement should be welded in the center and edges. The rest of the rods are simply knitted. After making two meshes, hang them so that a gap is formed. Weld them from the edges and in the center. This way you will have a frame. There is no need to weld the frames to make the belt. They are laid with an overlap of 0.2–0.3 m.
Installation and fastening of formwork is carried out using several methods. To install wooden panels, you need to pass anchors through them and install plugs on them using electric welding. The purpose of these actions is to fix the formwork in such a way that it is not squeezed out under the weight of the concrete.
To secure the formwork when pouring an interfloor armored belt, a simpler method is often used. A screw with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 10 cm should be fixed to the bottom of the shield. The distance between them is 0.7 m. So, attach wooden shield to the wall, drill a hole through it, insert a mushroom into it and hammer in a screw.
The hole in the shield should be slightly larger than 6 mm in diameter. This is necessary in order to easily install the fungus.
The upper part of the formwork is also secured with quick installation. But in this case, you should screw in a self-tapping screw, not a screw. So, make a hole in the face brick. Then drive the reinforcement into it. If the brick is solid, then the situation is simpler - just drive a nail/reinforcement into the vertical seam. Tighten the self-tapping screw and reinforcement with binding wire. The distance between fastening elements is 1–1.2 m. Such fastening is capable of withstanding the upcoming loads.
After the armored belt has hardened, the formwork can be removed using a crowbar/nail puller. In the warm season, concrete sets within a day. In this case, the dismantling of the formwork can be carried out the next day. During the cold season, this procedure is carried out a few days later.
Initially, you should determine the depth of the foundation. This parameter depends on the type of soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater. Then you should dig a trench around the perimeter of the future house. This can be done manually, which is long and tedious, or with the help of an excavator, which is quick and efficient, but entails additional costs.
After special equipment is used, the bottom and walls of the trench should be leveled to solid ground. The surface should be as hard and smooth as possible.
Now you need to form a sand cushion, the height of which should be 50–100 mm. If it is necessary to backfill sand more than 100 mm, it must be mixed with crushed stone. This activity may be necessary to level the bottom of the trench. Another way to level the bottom is to pour concrete.
After filling the sand cushion, it must be compacted. To complete the task faster, pour water on the sand.
Then the reinforcement should be laid. During construction in normal conditions you need to use reinforcement of 4–5 cores, the diameter of each rod should be 10–12 mm. It is important that when pouring the grillage for the foundation, the reinforcement does not touch the base. It must be recessed in concrete. Thus, the metal will be protected from corrosion. To achieve this, the reinforcing mesh should be raised above the sand cushion, placing brick halves under it.
If you are building a house on heaving soil or where the groundwater level is high, then the grillage should be made more durable. For this instead reinforcing mesh reinforcement cage should be used. He imagines 2 meshes consisting of 4 wires with a diameter of 12 mm. They should be laid below and above the armored belt. Granular slag is used as a base instead of a sand cushion. Its advantage over sand is that over time, granulated slag turns into concrete.
To make the mesh, a knitting wire is used rather than a welding seam.
For the grillage, M200 concrete should be used. To ensure that the filling height corresponds to the specified value, install a beacon in the trench - a metal peg equal in length to the height of the grillage. It will serve as your guide.
Before erecting walls, a basement reinforced belt should be poured onto the foundation. It must be poured along the perimeter of the building along external walls, but this cannot be done along internal load-bearing walls. The base armored belt serves as additional reinforcement of the structure. If you have filled the grillage with high quality, then the plinth belt can be made less durable. The height of the armored belt is 20–40 cm, concrete M200 and higher is used. The thickness of two-core reinforcing bars is 10–12 mm. The reinforcement is laid in one layer.
If you need to strengthen the base belt, then use reinforcement of greater thickness or install more conductors. Another option is to lay the reinforced mesh in 2 layers.
The thickness of the basement and external walls is the same. It ranges from 510 to 610 mm. When pouring the base armored belt, you can do without formwork, replacing it with brickwork. To do this, you need to make half-brick masonry on both sides of the wall. You can fill the resulting void with concrete after placing reinforcement in it.
In the absence of a grillage, it is useless to make a base armored belt. Some craftsmen, having decided to save on the grillage, strengthen the base belt, using reinforcement of a larger diameter, which supposedly improves the load-bearing capacity of the house. In fact, such a decision is unreasonable.
The grillage is the foundation of the house, and the plinth belt is an addition or strengthening of the load-bearing capabilities of the reinforced belt for the foundation. The joint work of the grillage and the plinth belt guarantees a reliable foundation even on heaving soils and with high level occurrence of groundwater.
An armored belt must also be made between the wall and the floor slabs. It is poured along external walls with a height of 0.2 to 0.4 m. Interfloor armored belt allows you to save on door/window lintels. They can be made small and with a minimum of reinforcement. Thus, the load on the structure will be distributed evenly.
If an armored belt is installed on walls made of poorly load-bearing material, the load from the floor slabs will be distributed evenly along the entire length of the walls, which will have a beneficial effect on their strength characteristics.
Reinforcement of the interfloor belt is carried out with a mesh of ribbed reinforcing bars 10–12 mm thick in 2 cores. If the wall thickness varies between 510–610 mm, then double-sided formwork can be used brickwork, as for the base belt. But at the same time for internal masonry Backfill bricks should be used, and for external facing bricks. In this case, the armored belt will have a width of 260 mm. If the walls are thinner, the backing brick should be laid on edge or wooden formwork should be used instead, and the facing brick should be laid on the outside in the same way as in the previous case.
The armored belt can be poured under the Mauerlat only after the glue/mortar for masonry walls has hardened. The technology used to lay the reinforced belt on aerated concrete differs in the formwork design, but we will talk about this a little later. The production of wooden formwork is carried out according to a scheme already familiar to you. Concrete is prepared according to the following formula: 2.8 parts sand to 1 part cement and 4.8 parts crushed stone. Thus, you will get M400 concrete.
After filling, eliminate any remaining air bubbles in the mixture. To accomplish these tasks, use a construction vibrator or poke a rod into the liquid mass.
At monolithic device armored belt, you should follow the rules for attaching the Mauerlat. During the installation of the reinforcement frame, vertical sections should be removed from it to the height specified in the project. The reinforcement bars should rise above the reinforced belt by the thickness of the Mauerlat + 4 cm. It is necessary to make through holes, equal to the diameter of the reinforcement, and threads should be cut at its ends. So, you will get a reliable fastening, which will give you the opportunity to carry out high-quality installation of a roof of any configuration.
Aerated concrete is an alternative to brick, which has high thermal insulation qualities along with low cost. Aerated concrete blocks inferior to brick in strength. If, when installing an armored belt on brick walls There is no need to pour concrete, since the reinforcement is laid during the laying process, but with aerated concrete things are different. How to make an armored belt on wooden formwork has already been discussed above, so in this subsection we will look at how to make a reinforced belt from U-shaped aerated concrete blocks D500. Although it is worth noting immediately that this technology is more expensive.
In this case, everything is extremely simple. Place the blocks on the wall as usual. Then reinforce their central part, and then fill it with concrete. Thus, the walls of your home will be more durable and reliable.
If you still have questions on the topic, then ask them to a specialist working on the site. If necessary, you can consult with our expert about filling the armored belt. Eat personal experience? Share it with us and our readers, write comments on the article.
Video
You can learn how to make an armored belt for a house made of aerated concrete from the video:
Any house during operation is exposed to the destructive effects of various natural phenomena:
Concrete reinforcing belts, like hoops in a barrel, tighten the walls of the house. The frame of the house acquires spatial rigidity, allowing the house to more successfully withstand the elements and avoid cracking.
Design and purpose of armored belt
Reinforced belt– monolithic reinforced concrete strip covering brick house, a house made of aerated concrete or others around the entire perimeter.
A system of several armored belts at different levels forms a spatial structure that promotes a more uniform distribution of loads on the walls of the house.
The main functions of reinforcement in the walls of a house:
- preserves the geometry of the wall box and prevents it from opening in the upper part;
- simplifies the task of attaching the Mauerlat to the walls;
- evenly distributes the load from the floor slabs onto the walls;
- prevents wall deformation and the formation of cracks due to uneven shrinkage of the house.
Types of armored belt
According to their location and functions, reinforcing belts are divided into:
- grillage– monolithic reinforced concrete strip or slab that combines the foundation pile heads into a single structure; the grillage can be recessed, raised or high;
- base armored belt– located between the foundation and the lower part of the walls;
- interfloor armored belt takes the load from the floor slabs;
- unloading armored belt for attaching the Mauerlat.
Why is an armored belt needed and where is it installed?
Grillage is part of the foundation, performed under all load-bearing walls of the house.
With a pile construction, the foundation is usually located above ground level (high), combining individual foundation piles into a single structure. Evenly distributes point loads from pile heads over the entire wall box.
Raised grillage located at ground level. Covers the upper edge of the walls of the recessed strip foundation from blocks. May be integral part shallow strip foundation.
Recessed grillage performed between the lower edge of the walls of a buried strip foundation and the surface of the earth.
Base armored belt rests directly on the foundation, fastens the lower part of the load-bearing walls of the house. Actually, it can be fully attributed to the family of armored belts quite conditionally.
Availability doorways will not allow it to be made continuous under the entire perimeter of the external walls of the house, which significantly reduces its functionality. This type of armored belt can be recommended in cases where the rigidity of a block foundation without grillages is in doubt. If there is a grillage in the foundation, it is redundant.
Interfloor armored belt serves as a support for the floor slabs of each floor. Must be compulsory. Prevents walls from coming apart and floor slabs from falling during the operation of the house.
Unloading armored belt evenly distributes the load from the roof onto the walls of the house. Allows you to simply and reliably attach the Mauerlat to the wall.
Tools and materials
Let's consider what tools and materials are needed to make a reinforcing belt.
Manufacturing of formwork:
- hand-held circular saw;
- screwdriver;
- edged boards 25 mm;
- OSB board 8 mm;
- black self-tapping screws 25, 45, 65 mm.
Reinforcing frame:
- reinforcement rods with a diameter of 12 – 14 mm;
- reinforcing wire with a diameter of 6 mm;
- soft wire for tying reinforcement, convenient to use plastic ties.
Concrete work at self-cooking concrete:
- concrete mixer (from experience: optimal volume 160 l);
- crushed stone fraction 20 - 40 mm or 10 - 20 mm, larger ones are not needed, finer ones, as a rule, contain a lot of dust;
- sand, the lower the clay content, the better;
- cement grade 400, do not forget to pay attention to the date of manufacture, to obtain high-quality concrete, storage is no more than two months;
- water without silt and oily contaminants.
And one more tool that is worth dwelling on separately. This is a submersible vibrator for concrete compaction. Even if you have to purchase one to pour one grillage, the gain in the quality of the resulting concrete will justify these costs. A simple hand-held vibrator with a hose length of 1 meter and a mace diameter of 35 mm is quite sufficient for the job.
How to make an armored belt with your own hands?
Making armored belts with your own hands is a completely solvable task. At correct device process, the result of its solution will be reliable basis under beams floors and will bring you only positive impressions.
Sequence of actions in the manufacture of a reinforcing belt:
- installation of formwork;
- production of reinforcement frame;
- pouring concrete into formwork.
Installation of formwork for armored belt
Measurements are being taken. According to the obtained dimensions, shields are made from boards on the ground. It is very convenient to use OSB strips, reinforced with frame from wooden slats.
Shields rise up the wall. The top edge of the shields is leveled. The height difference along the entire length of the grillage is no more than 1 cm. The lower edge is fixed to the wall. For fastening it is convenient to use quick installation 6x100 mm.
Special attention attention should be paid to the tightness of joints and corner connections. Concrete that leaks through the cracks during pouring forms unsightly streaks on the wall and air cavities in the body of the armored belt.
After assembly and installation In the formwork of the reinforcement frame, parallel formwork panels are connected to each other by cutting boards laid across the reinforcement belt and fixed with self-tapping screws.
It must be remembered that when pouring concrete, the formwork structure absorbs large static and dynamic loads. Poor fastening of the formwork elements leads to extrusion of the walls by the poured concrete. This unpleasant situation should be avoided. Properly assembled formwork has sufficient strength and rigidity. It should not bend when the weight of a person presses on it.
Manufacturing of reinforcement cage for reinforced belt
The reinforcement frame is a spatial structure of 4 – 6 longitudinally located reinforcement rods with a diameter of 12 – 14 mm, fastened together by vertical and transverse jumpers.
It is convenient to use rectangles made of reinforcing wire with a diameter of 6 mm as vertical and transverse jumpers.
Sequencing:
Frame elements should not be connected using electric arc welding. The frame metal at the welding site overheats and loses its strength properties. Also, you should not try to connect the connections with thick wire and as firmly as possible.
The twists must ensure the integrity of the frame during transportation and pouring with concrete. After hardening, the concrete adheres firmly to the reinforcement. The strength of the twists has no effect on the resulting strength of the grillage.
Along the length, the rods are joined to an overlap of at least 35 - 40 diameters of the reinforcement and are fastened together with knitting wire. The rods must be joined not in one place, but in a run-up, with a certain interval from each other.
The gap between the reinforcement and the edges of the concrete must be at least 50 mm thick.
Pouring concrete into formwork
You can purchase concrete or prepare it yourself using a concrete mixer.
Concrete work with imported concrete
If it is possible for a concrete truck to drive to a construction site, it is worth considering this option. You can order high-quality concrete of the required grade. It is advisable to fill the grillage at one time, without interruptions; a concrete mixer will perfectly provide this opportunity. When pouring a grillage at a height, it is very convenient to use the services of a concrete pump.
Advice. When making concrete in a concrete mixer, try using concrete additives. This will not require large expenses, but the properties and quality of the resulting concrete will pleasantly surprise you.
Superplasticizers give the concrete mixture fluidity with less water. Concrete is easier to pour; less water provides greater strength and frost resistance.
Strength accelerators– after a day you can remove the formwork, after two to three days you can continue working further. Directions for use: Simply add to water when mixing concrete.
I think you should immediately refuse offers to prepare concrete with a shovel. Low quality concrete, non-compliance with the preparation recipe, long breaks in pouring are practically guaranteed.
During the first 24 hours after pouring, the concrete must be covered from sun rays and protect from moisture evaporation. In the future, periodically water the surface of the concrete structure with water.
Subtleties and nuances of making armored belts
The safety of operation and durability of the house you built largely depend on the correct choice of design of reinforcing belts and compliance with the technology for performing the work.
If you engage third-party specialists to carry out work on the manufacture of the grillage, first carefully study the entire sequence of actions literally step by step.
Find the time and opportunity to personally monitor the entire progress of the work, since all the shortcomings and mistakes of the workers will be hidden under a layer of concrete and will appear much later, when their correction will be very difficult or impossible.
