Doorway design (1)
Doorway design options
IN standard apartments The thickness of the walls can be different, so some of them are main walls (about 20 cm), others are interior partitions (about 8 cm) and, finally, bathroom walls, which are even thinner (4-5 cm). At the same time, the bulk of doors on our market are sold complete with frames no more than 8-9 cm wide. What to do with wide frames has already been discussed above. Now let’s consider a situation where the thickness of the wall in the opening of which the door is installed is at least 1.5-2 times greater than the width of the door frame.
In such cases, proceed as follows - the door block is combined with the surface of the wall that is considered the front. As a rule, this is a corridor where all the doors open. Then on this side of the door you can use the same trim as on the others. True, on the other hand, it will no longer be possible to nail down the same platband due to the insufficient width of this opening. IN best case scenario, from the inside the seam is closed with a narrow layout. (Fig. 5.1B.) This is the simplest, inexpensive, and therefore the most common solution, however, it is not the best, because firstly, the layout does not fit at all with the other trims apartment doors, if you look from the back of the room into the corridor, this is immediately visible, secondly, the opening may not have the required rectangular shape Therefore, a door installed vertically will only emphasize its crookedness. And thirdly, the corners of this opening, finished in the same way as the walls of the room - paint or wallpaper, will be the most damaged places.
It seems more rational to use extensions (expansion strips). With their help you can somehow increase door frame, i.e. make its width equal to the thickness of the wall. (See) Then from the side of the room you can use the same platbands as on the front side.
However, this bar you need to attach it to something. This means you need a level base. Therefore, the slopes of the opening need to be given a rectangular shape, i.e. so that their contour follows the contour door block, A inner surface the slope was perpendicular to the outside. As a rule, for this purpose the slopes are plastered (Fig. 5.1A.). There is always a risk of damage decorative covering frames of new doors. In addition, wood can absorb moisture contained in plaster mixture, and then she will almost certainly be led away, and the door will stop closing altogether. Wet processes can be avoided and the proposed options for expanding the door frame can be used.
If the width of the opening exceeds the width of the door block by at least 5-10 cm, then you can use option 1.
To implement it, you can use thick plywood or chipboard. A panel is cut out from a sheet of the selected material, the width of which is equal to the thickness of the wall. Even before installing the door, this piece is attached with screws to the underside of the studs and the top of the door frame. Next, the installation of the door with the door frame “extended along the wall” occurs in the usual manner. Of course, installing such a wide box becomes much more complicated, which means the cost of this operation also increases, almost doubling, but the result fully justifies the high price.
After installing the box expanded in this way, an opening of the required rectangular shape is obtained. All that remains is to seal the gaps between the panels and the wall, and when finished painting works you can nail and glue any decorative strips to their surface and nail platbands (Fig. 5.2.). If you use veneered material for the panels, covered with veneer of the same type as the door, you can do without “additional” strips.
The door frame can be fixed to the edge of the panel or in the middle. However, if it is necessary for the door to swing open completely, then the edge of the frame with hinges should be in the plane of the wall. This method allows you to design a doorway up to 25 cm deep. If the dimensions of the opening do not allow you to use the first option, then there is nothing to do; you will have to plaster the slopes of the opening, onto which the expansion strips are then attached, using glue or thin nails without heads.
Suitable for inexpensive doors equipped with planed, untinted frames option 2(see Fig. 5.4.).
Per box installed door a block is nailed, which is then painted or tinted along with the box. The block can be nailed flush with the surface of the box (Fig. 5.4B) or with an indentation of about one centimeter (Fig. 5.4A). It is nailed, as a rule, from the side opposite to the hinges. Although in some difficult cases you have to “build up” the box on both sides - for example, if a wall or partition initially slopes in one direction, and from some point it changes to the opposite. This usually happens with partitions made of brick, gypsum blocks, or even panel houses, for example, if the builders installed a broken panel. In such cases, it is necessary to “increase” the box not along its entire length, but only part of it, gradually reducing the thickness of the “additional” bar to “nothing”.
This is done as follows - the block is smeared with glue (PVA), then nailed or screwed to the box, and after the glue has set, the nails or screws are removed and it is cut “along the wall”. On the side of the hinges, the “additional” block will have to be attached with an indentation from the edge of the box. Then it will look like a continuation of the platband. However, in this case, the door can no longer be opened completely - 180 degrees.
“Canadian doors”, once very popular in our country because of their low price, gave another idea for decorating a doorway ( option 3) (Fig. 5.5.). Before this, the usual box, which was a block and a quarter, was perceived by us as the only possible variant. The "Canadian" box consists of two parts: wide board about 20 mm thick and a limit rail measuring 10x20-30mm. The board is sawn to the required size “along the wall”, and then the door is installed in the most universal way - using screws. Moreover, you don’t have to worry about the mounting holes being visible, because... limit rail nailed to last stage installation will close them completely. Inexpensive domestic door blocks, often having fairly decent quality panels, are often equipped with damp, knotty and unpolished frames. Instead of spending money and effort on bringing these products to a decent condition or on “expansion”, for example, according to option 2, sometimes it makes sense to send the “original” boxes straight to the trash and buy a collapsible Canadian type.
It doesn't matter if you don't find the kit you need. In almost any market you can find dry planed pine boards of the required width and thickness and buy a limit rail nearby the right size. The disadvantages of this option include the fact that the door opening into the room will be installed in the depth of the opening. Only for walls 10-15 cm thick this option usually does not raise objections. 
The doorway design options listed above mainly concern those doors whose frames do not have grooves for platbands or additional strips, as well as those blocks whose expansion strips do not have sufficient rigidity. Such frames are mainly equipped with Finnish, Spanish and some domestic doors.
For Italian blocks and some domestic doors, which are equipped with a frame with sufficiently deep grooves for the expansion strip, it is possible, using the adhesive properties of polyurethane foam, to do without plastering work that is dangerous for the door.
After installing the door, the expansion strip is inserted into the groove of the frame and pulled out so that its outer edge coincides with the plane of the wall. Then it is fixed with spacers and wedges in the desired position, and the distance between the wall and the plank is filled with foam. To prevent bending of the additional strip, a planed board is inserted between the spacers and the expander. It turns out to be a kind of conductor, to which the expanding foam presses the decorative strips. (Fig.5.6)
However, despite the simplicity of this method, its implementation also requires a lot of time, most of which is spent on fixing the expander in the desired position.
On which side of the door block should the extensions be installed?
When installing doors, modern apartment or cottage, they try to adhere to an unspoken rule: if several doors open into a particular room, and usually this is a corridor, then this is the side that is considered the front side of all doors and from this side all doors should look the same. It follows that door extensions should only be installed on the opposite side, inside door block. However, in our apartments, interior doors, as a rule, open into the room. Installing extensions on the inside of the door block (the side with hinges) will significantly limit the opening angle of the door. Thus, a door with a wide extension, as a rule, swings open no more than 90° (see Fig.). This circumstance does not matter when the doorway is in the corner of the room and the door opens onto a wall located perpendicular to the plane of the door. In other cases, the customer, together with the foreman, should decide on priorities; what is more important is uniformity appearance all doors opening into the corridor/living room or the ability of some doors to swing open 180 degrees.
© M. Verikin
from the book "Pitfalls of Eurorepair"
Quite often it turns out that the frame of the interior door is narrower than the thickness of the wall cut and you have to use an additional strip to eliminate this discrepancy. Today we will tell you how to build up a box using an additional strip and what material the additional elements are made from.
If you decide to go to another city, then it’s much easier to choose the ones you like door designs, based on their appearance and material characteristics, than to order a door of a certain thickness, taking into account the cut width interior partitions. In this case, the doors will cost less, and the discrepancy between the thickness of the frame and the walls will be compensated for by the additional strip. This element must be selected taking into account the color of the door; the material for its production is MDF or chipboard, and the thickness of the planks ranges from 10 to 16 mm. Thicker additional elements are attached with self-tapping screws, thinner ones are fixed with wood glue.
It is difficult to give preference to any additional material, but it is easier to fasten the element with glue; in addition, with adhesive fixation, you will not have to mechanically damage the box with self-tapping screws and it will be less likely to deform during use.
When choosing an extension, also pay attention to the fact that after installation the clearance between it and the wall is one centimeter; a smaller distance will make it difficult to work with polyurethane foam, and a larger one can lead to deformation of the extension after foaming the voids between the cut of the wall and the door frame.
Installation of additional trim.
On the back of the box there is a special groove for addition; it is into this that the extension element must be inserted, but this must be done only after the box itself has been completely fixed. First, measure the exact distance from the groove to the edge of the wall, then cut the extension to length hand hacksaw or a jigsaw. You can try to select the exact width of the strip when purchasing, but this is difficult, and if you are buying an extension for several doors, it is impossible, so it is best to purchase an additional element with a reserve, since it is easy to cut and is inexpensive.
Depending on the thickness, the extension inserted into the groove is fixed with small self-tapping screws or glue. In the second case, you need to pre-coat adhesive composition groove and the end of the extension, then insert the element into the groove and press firmly for a dozen or two seconds. It is important that the angle of insertion of the planks is exactly 90 degrees, so insert them tightly into the groove, pressing along the entire length.
As a rule, the gap between the door frame and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam, after which the perimeter of the door is decorated with platband.
Dmitry Shekhovtsev
When my parents were building a house and planning interior decoration, they calculated the level of finishing flooring in advance, and it met the standards. This was done for the purpose of pre-ordering hinged interior wooden doors made from natural oak.
Despite the fact that doors with standard sizes: 80 cm wide and 200 cm high, it took four long months to wait for the order to be completed.
By the time the order was ready and the doors were delivered, the finished laminate floor had already been laid on both floors of the house, and it turned out that the height of the doorways in the house was different.
On the second floor, she found herself right under the 200 cm high door; there were three openings in total. And on the first floor, eight doors did not fit in height: doorways were five centimeters higher than the required level for installing door frames!
The house of accomplished adults could not remain with huge gaps under the doors; it was unacceptable. You understand that we were talking about quite large losses.
Then the master who came to install the doors suggested non-standard solution, which negated the problem. He secured it to the door lintels (the upper horizontal parts of the door frames) wooden structures from the same beams, processed on the outside and painted “for finishing”, that came with the doors “in reserve”.
Then I attached shaped “plates” to the extended jumpers and rubber seals. Thus, the master built up the frames from top to bottom and hid the difference in height (gap) between the door leaf and the lintel.
The slopes of the boxes were not cut to height, so there were no problems with them: on the second floor they are shorter, and on the first floor they are longer.
This ingenious and simple solution of the master saved the situation. I didn't have to order new doors! The result was a kind of wooden mat for door panels that harmoniously fit into the interior of the house. None of the visitors have such doors.
There are many guests in the house, absolute majority none of them noticed that the heights of the doorways on the first and second floors were different. And those who saw the difference asked to tell us how they could make such interesting doors.
This is such a simple miracle. I am attaching photos to show how the door frames and doors look in my parents' house.
But our advice to you: before ordering doors, it’s better to finish the floor so that you know exactly the size of the openings. Try to guess and determine which doorways and doors are on which floor?
Which differ both in size, type, and material of their manufacture. They are placed under the door frame and visually. Door access can be vertical or horizontal and must match the shade of the main door. Extensions are made of fiberboard, MDF, veneer. They are usually used on one side of the door, but with significant thickness of the walls they can be used on both sides.
To nail the door frame when installing an interior door, the frame must be in the same plane as the wall. And if the wall is thicker than the door frame, then the frame needs to be extended. That's what extras are for.
Measure the discrepancy between the thickness of the doorway and the frame and transfer the dimensions to the vertical additional strip. Cut the required strip from the extension. Check that the cut is correct; it is important that the extension does not protrude beyond the plane of the wall. There should be two such stripes, left and right.
If necessary, cut out one horizontal extension in the same way. Install two horizontal and one vertical extensions in a U shape on top of the door frame and secure them with wedges so that they do not “walk” or move.
After securely fixing the extensions in the opening, seal the gap between the walls and extensions using polyurethane foam. Before using foam, spray the gap with water to remove dust and improve the adhesion of the foam. Fill the vertical gaps first and then the horizontal ones. Polyurethane foam It expands well, so there is no need to apply it in large quantities.
After the foam has dried, nail the platbands over the wall and extensions.
Another way to install interior door panels is to directly attach them to the door frame with self-tapping screws during the assembly stage. After that complete design boxes with accessories are installed in the doorway. However, this method does not allow the door frame to be accurately adjusted to the thickness of the wall, and cracks may appear when installing the trim.
Video on the topic
note
Additions to interior doors are the same important element in the interior, like the interior doors themselves. The additions add completeness to the composition of the door, being made in the color of the door frame, or, conversely, are a non-standard design move, differing from the interior door itself in color, texture and material. Accessories have strictly defined functionality.
Extensions are made of 10 and 16 mm in thickness from wood, chipboard and MDF. The last two are finished with veneer - the same as the doors. The extras are purchased in the same place as the doors, door frames, and trims. The base of the veneered interior door is made of wood coniferous species using MDF parts. The door leaf is covered with natural veneer valuable species, tinted, varnished. For solid wood doors, selected coniferous and valuable wood is used.
Sources:
- interior doors how to install extensions
If we say that the quality of installation of the former largely depends on the size of the door block and the opening in the wall, you will probably consider this a truism. Nevertheless, most novice masters get burned at this point and, as a result, very simple work turns into complete torture. To prevent this from happening, the opening should always be checked to match the door block (or vice versa) and, if necessary, enlarge or reduce it. This will be discussed in this article, in which, together with the site, we will talk about how the sizes doorways must match the door block, and at the same time we will explain how to correctly bring them to the desired combination.
Extension of the doorway photo
Dimensions of doorways: what to strive for
Anyone who has dealt with the installation, replacement or simply purchasing of any type of door knows that these products are standardized. This was done not only for the sake of banal convenience, but also in order to minimize the loss of living space in the premises caused by the presence of the doors themselves. Let's just say that in the bathroom doors are used with almost the smallest width (just enough for a person to enter and it is easy to bring in the necessary equipment). Entrance door It has a large width into the house so that any furniture and other household items can be brought into the home.
It is for this reason that a certain line of door leaf width sizes was born - all other door sizes are the same. Their height is 2 m, and their width can be 600 mm, 700 mm, 800 mm and 900 mm - the canvases can be combined if necessary. That is, the entrance to the room can have two door leaves– for example, 600 and 600 mm. Or 400 and 800 mm - these are which you can read about in another article on our website. It is to this standardization that the size of a standard doorway is tied.
Ask what to do if the opening doesn't fit your new doors? Everything is simple - bring it to the required dimensions, which is what we will discuss further.
Widening the doorway: it's easy only from the side
When faced with the question of how to increase the size of a doorway, you first need to pay attention to the type of wall - if it is a partition, then you don’t have to worry about the consequences of the expansion.
- If we're talking about O load-bearing wall, then you need to keep your eyes open with it, so as not to collapse the ceilings; for this, preliminary reinforcement should be done. Lay a channel on top of the opening, strengthen it thoroughly with welding or studs, and only then begin to increase the opening in width or height.
- If this is a partition, then you need to pay attention to the material from which it is made - if these are blocks, then they also need to be strengthened with a crossbar so that they do not collapse during work or operation. The profile of the door frame is by no means a reliable deterrent for heavy blocks.
How to increase the height of a doorway photo
If you specifically, as they say, point by point, answer the question of how to increase a doorway in height or width, then all the work can be presented in the form of the following series of events.
- Strengthening the top of the opening. This stage can be ignored only if the doorway is increased only in width and not by much - a maximum of 100 mm. It will be possible to remove 50 mm from each side of the opening - if you move in one direction, then the top of the opening will have to be strengthened. How is strengthening done? Above the door, on both sides of the wall, a corner is laid (if we are talking about piers) or a channel (if we are talking about a load-bearing wall) - the metal located on one and the other side of the wall is tightened with studs. Only after this can you begin to disassemble or dismantle the unnecessary part of the wall
- Marking. We calculate the new width of the doorway and draw it on the wall using a pencil and level.
- Removing unnecessary material. It is better to leave the hammer, chisel and sledgehammer alone - you need a grinder or, if a large amount of dust scares you, then a hammer drill. IN in the right place the wall can be cut with a disk or many holes can be drilled along the intended line, and then the excess can be knocked off with a hammer drill. The grinder works faster, so if dust doesn’t bother you, then it’s better to give it preference.
To learn how to widen a doorway, watch this video.
Everything is simple - break it, don’t build it, but you should always remember that such work must be done carefully so as not to injure yourself and not destroy unnecessary things. Dismantling of walls is carried out correctly from top to bottom - everything needs to be disassembled, and not broken and destroyed.
How to reduce a doorway: options and their features
On the one hand, it may seem that making a doorway smaller is easier than making it larger, but on the other hand, such confidence usually backfires. First of all, an incorrectly reduced opening is a crack in the wall. Quite often, the wrong approach to the matter leads to loosening of the door block in a narrowed opening. In general, troubles can be very serious, and they can only be avoided through the right choice materials and technology.
To learn how to reduce the opening with drywall, watch this video.
In principle, this is all that can be said about the size of the doorway and how to change them. The only thing that can be added is to say a few words about reducing the height. The technologies used here are not very different - if we are talking about a slight reduction, then you can sew on timber or glue drywall. If you need to reduce a lot, then you should first install an embedded corner or channel and only after that wall up the unnecessary space with bricks or any other materials convenient for you.
