To paint a car, as a rule, a paint spraying device is used. This air compressor and a spray gun connected to it. If you are planning such equipment for your garage, you can make a compressor yourself or purchase a factory model.
It is quite obvious that buying a finished product is much easier. This entails less labor costs. However self-production- This is a significant financial saving. In addition, experts say that a homemade powerful electric compressor for a car with a relay and receiver can be much more efficient and durable than a serial product. Below we will tell you how to make a compressor for painting a car under 220V voltage yourself.
DIY compressor for painting cars
Obviously, for work we will need to collect certain materials. So, to assemble a homemade 220V air compressor for painting a car, we will need the following parts:
- pressure gauge;
- gearbox with oil and moisture protection filter;
- relay for pressure regulation;
- cleaning filter for gasoline engines;
- crosspiece for water with thread inside;
- threaded adapters;
- clamps;
- motor;
- receiver;
- engine oil;
- switch for 220V voltage;
Materials for homemade compressor
- brass tubes;
- oil-resistant hose;
- wooden plank;
- syringe;
- rust remover;
- studs, nuts, washers;
- sealant, fum tape;
- enamel for metal;
- saw or file
- furniture wheels;
- diesel engine filter.
Compiling this list is not difficult. After we have collected everything we need, we can get to work.
Assembling the engine
We start work from the very beginning important element- an engine that will create the required amount of air pressure. Here we can use a motor from an unnecessary refrigerator.
Its device includes a relay, which will be needed in order to maintain a given air pressure. Experts say that old Soviet models can achieve higher pressures than new imported engines.
We remove the motor from the refrigerator, carefully clean it and treat it with a product to avoid oxidation of the housing. After this it will be ready for painting.
Removing the refrigerator motor Now you need to change the oil in the engine. Semi-synthetic is quite suitable for this - it is no worse than motor oil and has a lot of useful additives.
The motor has 3 tubes: 1 closed and 2 open, through which air circulates. In order to determine the input and output channels, turn on the motor and remember where the air flows in and where it comes out from. The closed tube is used just for changing the oil. When working with a file, we make a cut in such a way as to avoid sawdust getting into the tube. We break the end, remove the oil and pour in a new one, using a syringe for this purpose.
To seal the channel after changing the oil, select a screw of a suitable cross-section, wrap sealing tape around it and screw it tightly into the tube.
We mount the motor together with the relay on a thick board, which will act as a foundation. We choose the position in which it was in the refrigerator. This is necessary because the start relay is extremely sensitive to how it is placed. As a rule, there are corresponding markings on it - adhere to correct location in order for the relay to work stably and correctly.
We mount the motor on the prepared board
Air tank - necessary element, which is necessarily included in the compressor device. It must be designed for a certain amount of pressure in order for the device to work correctly. We can use old containers from ten-liter fire extinguishers as a receiver - they are durable and airtight.
Instead of a start valve, we screw a threaded adapter onto the receiver - for tightness we use a special FUM tape. If the future receiver has pockets of rust, they must be removed by grinding and processing by special means. In order to eliminate pockets of corrosion inside, pour in the product and shake well. Then we install the water cross using sealant. We can assume that the homemade receiver is ready.
We use an old fire extinguisher as a reservoir for compressed air Assembling the device
We attach the fire extinguisher receiver together with the motor to a base made of a thick board. We use nuts, washers and studs as fixing means. The receiver must be positioned vertically. To attach it, we take three plywood sheets, in one of them we make a hole for the cylinder. We attach the remaining two sheets to wooden base And plywood sheet, which holds a homemade receiver. We screw the wheels of furniture fittings onto the bottom of the wooden base for better maneuverability of the mechanism.
We put a rubber hose on the compressor inlet tube, to which we connect a cleaning filter for gasoline engines. Additional clamps will not be needed since the inlet air pressure is relatively low. To avoid the presence of moisture and oil particles in the air flow, we install an oil-moisture separating filter for diesel engines at the outlet. Here the pressure will already be quite high, so special clamps with screw fastenings should be used for additional fastening.
The diagram below shows how to assemble a homemade automobile compressor for painting a car.
Compressor diagram for car painting Next, we connect a filter to remove oil and moisture to the input of the gearbox, which we will need to decouple the pressure in the engine and the cylinder. We make the connection via a water cross with the left or right side. On the opposite side of the cross we install a pressure gauge to monitor the pressure level in the cylinder. We mount a relay for adjustment on the upper end of the cross. All connections are sealed using sealant.
Using a relay, we can supply the pressure we need to the receiver, while ensuring stepwise operation of the mechanism. The relay is adjusted by two springs, one of which sets the upper pressure limit, and the second - the lower one. We connect one contact to the supercharger, the second is connected to the zero phase of the network. We connect the second network input of the supercharger via a toggle switch to the mains phase. The toggle switch will make it possible to turn the device on and off from the power supply without removing the plug from the outlet. We carry out soldering and insulate all electrical contacts. After painting, our homemade car compressor will be ready for testing.
Homemade compressor for painting a car Testing and setting up a homemade compressor for painting cars
For testing, we connect a spray gun to the output. We put the toggle switch in the off position and turn on the plug electrical outlet. Set the relay regulator to the lowest value and turn on the toggle switch. For control we use a pressure gauge. We make sure that the relay regularly opens the network at the right moments. Using water with detergent We check how tight all hoses and connections are.
Next, we empty the container of compressed air - after the pressure drops to a certain level, the relay should turn on the motor. If everything works fine, you can try to use the device to paint a suitable object. We look at the quality and make sure that the device works stably and can be used to work on cars.
A garage compressor is a necessary piece of equipment for your garage. With its help, you can paint a car, inflate tires, and supply air for operating pneumatic tools.
To do this, they are subject to certain requirements in order to create the required air flow with the required pressure. This article explains how to make a compressor for a garage.
Features of using the compressor
An air compressor is always needed in the garage. It can be used both for blowing off dust from the surfaces of parts processed with abrasive, and for obtaining overpressure in pneumatic tools.
Often the working life of a compressor is necessary to paint a car, which imposes certain requirements on the air flow created:
- The flow must be strictly uniform without any impurities in the form of drops of liquid, oil or suspended solids. On freshly applied paint coating graininess, cavities and shagreen are due to the penetration of foreign particles into the air stream.
- Uneven flow of the mixture leads to paint drips and dull spots on the enamel.
- Branded air compressors produced by industry have all the functions for such a process, but are quite expensive.
- Not inferior to professional ones, you can create a model of the product yourself or use a garage compressor from a refrigerator.
- In this case, excess pressure occurs in the device for containing compressed air, which is called a “receiver”. The air flow can be pumped manually and mechanically.
- Manual feeding saves money, but at the same time a lot of energy and effort is spent on controlling the process.
- These shortcomings are eliminated with automatic injection, but in this case the oil in the air pump is replaced manually.
- Then compressed air is supplied evenly through the outlet fitting to actuators.
How to make a simple compressor from a refrigerator
The simplest compressor for the garage can be made from an old refrigerator.
To make it you will need to purchase:
- Air filter from a car, designed for different pressures. Its price is quite low.
- Plumbing bypass valve, which can be restrictive and disruptive, combined with check valve six atmospheres.
- Any plumbing hose that can withstand more than six atmospheres.
- Chinese pistol without pressure gauge.
- Any capacity storage cylinder. The larger it is, the less often it will need to be turned on.
- From copper tubes connecting communications or hoses of any formation.
Tip: The cylinder is an accumulator for storing air. As work progresses, the pressure will decrease, which is not very important when inflating tires, where no more than three atmospheres is sufficient. But for pneumatic tools this will be insufficient and critical.
Instructions for manufacturing the device are as follows:
- The tank is being assembled. Its device includes at least three pipes:
- input;
- day off;
- to drain condensate. The element is installed after mounting the container strictly at the bottom so that the liquid can be drained without problems.
- The problem with the compressor may be that it will spit out oil, so you need to close the outlet pipe so that it is directed straight up.
- The hose to the tank should go in the same direction.
- The intake pipe is bent upward and equipped with a short rubber tube; an air filter from the car is attached to its end.
- A reverse water bypass valve is placed between the cylinder and the compressor, which prevents air from escaping back, and is the simplest indicator that the pressure has reached a given value. When it reaches six atmospheres it will begin to hiss, which means it is time to turn off the compressor motor.
Many people know that you can assemble a compressor from an old refrigerator, and in a home workshop, without special skills. But not everyone is familiar with the technology and secrets. If you think carefully, an air compressor can be useful in any garage, in any workshop and household. With its help you can paint a car, pump up tires, or start any pneumatic tool. Even blowing off dust is also useful. Let's consider the version for painting.
Installation Requirements
Painting is a responsible business. Such a compressor must meet a number of requirements. The main one is a uniform supply of air, and without foreign bodies. The most undesirable defects on paintwork are graininess, shagreen, and cavities on the surface. If the air flow is not stable, all this will occur, including dull spots and drips. Specialized branded compressors have everything necessary to eliminate the slightest defect. But the price is off the charts.
Should I buy a unit or assemble it myself?
Therefore, it makes sense to make a compressor for painting a car yourself. To do this, it is worth studying in detail the structure and operating principle of a real, factory compressor. And it is the same for all samples. In the cylinder it is created high pressure. The method of air injection is not important - it can be mechanical or by hand. In the case of manual supply, we save a lot of money, but where can we find a slave capable of pumping air continuously? The automatic process will eliminate many disadvantages and problems. An exception is changing the oil in the compressor. Only the mechanism is capable of continuously supplying a stream of air into the cylinder! The theory is simple; making a personal compressor station with your own hands is quick and easy.
Compressor from a car chamber
How to make a paint application installation from a simple car camera? List of required materials:
- pump with pressure gauge for blower function,
- car camera for receiver function,
- awl,
- repair tool kit,
- nipple from a car camera.
The difficult stage is the creation of a compressor station. The camera should be checked for leaks. She's being pumped up. If there is an air leak, the problem can be solved by gluing or vulcanization raw rubber. Then a hole is pierced with an awl. We place the nipple in it for uniform air flow. The auxiliary fitting is secured by gluing. A repair kit will help you cope with this work. Then the fitting is attached to the spray gun. To control the release of the air stream, unscrew the nipple.
But it is noteworthy that the old nipple is not removed. It will act as a valve and hold excess pressure. A control check of the pressure value is carried out by spraying a dye onto the metal surface. If the paint falls even layer, which means the installation is functioning perfectly! Additional control of the pressure value can be checked with a pressure gauge. The air flow, even after turning on the aerator key, must be intermittent!
Designing a home compressor is easy. And after using it, car painting will be of better quality than using a spray can. When working at home, you should avoid the penetration of dust, foreign bodies, and water into the car chamber. These things can get into the spray gun and the painting will have to be done again. At correct operation our unit will work for a long time, and it is desirable to automate air injection.
Craftsmen often noticed that a homemade compressor can last much longer than a factory one. And regardless - domestic or imported. An item assembled with your own hands has positive energy. It is easier to repair and maintain - because you know it very well weak sides and design.
Compressor from an old refrigerator
The unit, made from components of an ancient refrigerator, will not be inferior in performance to compressors from elite manufacturers. To construct it you will need:
- pressure gauge,
- rust converter,
- compressor receiver,
- threaded adapters,
- relay for high-quality control of the flow pressure force in our compressor,
- fuel filter element for gasoline,
- oil moisture separating filter and its gearbox,
- the engine driving the installation,
- cross with 3/4 inch thread for water pipes,
- switch for 220 V voltage,
- sealant,
- motor oil grade 10W40,
- brass tubes,
- oil hose,
- simple syringe,
- thicker board
- metal paint,
- filter element of the power supply system for a diesel engine,
- furniture wheels,
- needle file,
- studs, nuts, washers,
- fum tape,
- car clamps.
A compressor unit from a rare Soviet refrigerator can be useful as a motor. The compressor from the refrigerator in our example is the most optimal solution. It has one great benefit - a compressor start relay! Very old Soviet models have an advantage over foreign competitors. They are capable of pumping up very high pressures. During assembly, it is necessary to carefully remove rust from the actuator unit.
The rust converter will be able to perform high-quality processing compressor and prevent further oxidation. This will simultaneously prepare the working engine housing for painting. Then they move on to changing the oil. It's clear that old refrigerator if he was subjected maintenance, then a very long time ago. This also applies to changing the oil in it. But this situation also has a justification - the system is absolutely completely isolated from environment. Semi-synthetic oil is suitable. This modern lubricant has properties no worse than compressor oil. It will cope with the task remarkably well - it contains many high-quality and effective additives. On the compressor body we find 3 tubes: two of them are open, the remaining one is hermetically sealed. We supply power to the compressor unit and determine the nature and direction of the air flow. It is better to immediately write down or mark the intake and exhaust ducts.
A sealed tube is needed to change the oil. We remove it with a needle file, making a notch around the circumference of the tube. It is important to prevent metal shavings from getting inside the compressor. We break off the tube and drain the oil completely into a container that will allow us to determine its volume. Using a simple medical syringe, we pour in the semi-synthetic, and with a larger volume than what poured out!
After filling, the engine lubrication system is shut down. Select a suitable screw and seal it with tape. It should be remembered that oil in the form of droplets will sometimes penetrate from the air outlet tube. An oil/moisture separator for the compressor will save you from this. Assembly of the installation begins with strengthening the motor with the start relay on a wooden base. It should be in the same position as on the frame. The correct switching of operating modes depends on the correct installation and installation of the compressor!
Receiver
How to make a receiver? It is good to use a cylinder from simple fire extinguisher. It can withstand high pressure perfectly and has a good margin of safety. The cylinder is an excellent solution for mounted technological equipment. As a basis, you can take a fire extinguisher of the OU-10 brand with a volume of 9.99 liters. It is able to withstand pressure up to 16 MPa. We unscrew the locking and trigger mechanism from our workpiece and screw in the adapter. If we find corrosion, we will mercilessly remove it. It is difficult to remove internal rust; to do this, pour the rust converter into the container of the cylinder and shake out the contents. After cleaning is completed, screw in the crosspiece for the water supply.
A wooden board will be a good base for mounting the motor and fire extinguisher body. It is advisable to place all working parts and assemblies on one line. Threaded rods will serve as fasteners; they must be threaded into the holes obtained by drilling. You will need nuts and washers. Then take the receiver and place it vertically. You will need 3 sheets of plywood. One sheet - for through hole under the cylinder. The remaining 2 sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws to the main board and glued to the sheet that holds the receiver. At the base, a recess is made from wood for the bottom of the receiver. To move the unit, we attach furniture wheels.
The system should be protected from dust using a gasoline filter for rough cleaning of the fuel. It will act as an air intake. A rubber hose and an inlet tube from the supercharger will come in handy. The air pressure at the inlet is very low, clamps are not useful. An oil dehumidifier is installed at the outlet to block liquid droplets. The filter element of the power supply system is suitable (speaking in simple words- filter). You will need clamps for the car. The oil moisture separator is connected to the input of the gearbox, and the output is screwed into the crosspiece we have already prepared on the left side. A pressure gauge is screwed into the right side to monitor the pressure value. And on top of the crosspiece we screw in a relay for adjustment.
Adjusting the pressure force in the system
The adjustment relay allows you to set the desired range or limit of the receiver pressure. And at the required moment, interrupt the power supply circuit of the system supercharger. It is recommended to use RDM-5 as a performing unit. With its help, the compressor will start when the air pressure in the tank drops below the required value and will turn off if the parameters are higher than permissible. The required amount of air flow is adjusted to the relay using a pair of springs. The purpose of a large spring is to apply light pressure. A small spring allows you to adjust the upper limit and set the final limit for turning off the entire compressor installation.
RDM-5 was designed for water supply lines. In reality, this is a simple two-pin switch. In this example, one contact is needed for switching with the network zero, the other is needed for switching with the supercharger. The mains phase is carried out through a toggle switch for connection to the second input of the compressor installation. The toggle switch will help you quickly disconnect the system from the power supply. All electrical contacts are well soldered. Then the compressor unit is painted and tested. During a test run, the operation of the relay and the tightness of the system are checked. Test run will allow us to determine the value optimal pressure for painting in an even layer. To ensure high-quality and long-term operation of the compressor, maintenance is required. An important step in this case is changing the oil.
If you decide to buy a factory-made air compressor, study its parameters and capabilities. Give preference to well-known companies.
An air compressor would be useful in a car owner's garage inventory. You can use it to paint a car, inflate tires, or supply air to pneumatic tools. Let's look at how to make a compressor for painting with your own hands from available materials.
Compressed air is the true assistant of a true master
There is always a use for an air compressor in the garage: from simply blowing away dust from surfaces treated with abrasive to creating excess pressure in pneumatic tools. A considerable part of the compressor's working life is spent on painting the car. And this imposes certain requirements on the air flow created.
It must flow strictly evenly and not have any impurities in the form of drops of water, oil or solid suspended particles. Defects such as graininess, shagreen and cavities on a freshly applied paint coating occur precisely due to foreign particles entering the stream. Paint drips and dull spots on the enamel occur when the mixture flows unevenly.
Branded air compressors from the manufacturer have all the functions for ideal operation of an airbrush, but they cost a lot of money. Save and create functional model, not inferior to professional ones, you can do it on your own by studying theoretical information and watching the video material “do-it-yourself compressor” as a guide. The operating principle of all models, both homemade and professional, is quite simple and is as follows. A device for storing compressed air, called a “receiver,” creates excess pressure. Air can be pumped either manually or mechanically.
When feeding manually, financial resources are saved, but a lot of effort and energy is spent on controlling the process. With automatic injection, all these shortcomings are eliminated; the only thing that remains is a routine oil change in the air pump. Next, compressed air is supplied through the outlet fitting in a uniform flow to the actuators. As you can see, there is nothing complicated, and you can create a working model in a few minutes.
Making a simple compressor with your own hands
One option would be to make a compressor for painting from a used car inner tube. For production you will need:
- The receiver is a car camera. Possible with a tire, possible without it
- Supercharger – car pump with pressure gauge
- Nipple from a bad camera
- Repair kit for rubber
- Tailor's awl
Having collected necessary materials, we proceed directly to the manufacture of the device. We take an unnecessary car inner tube and check it for leaks by inflating it with a pump. If the balloon holds air, then everything is fine, and you can move on to the next stage. If there are leaks, localize the damaged areas and seal them or vulcanize them with raw rubber.
Next, a hole is made in the prepared receiver for an additional nipple, through which a uniform stream of compressed air will subsequently emerge. We glue the additional fitting using a rubber repair kit and connect it to the spray gun. We unscrew the nipple in it - the air flow should come out freely. We leave the nipple in the original nipple of the car camera - it will work like a valve, holding excess pressure.
Then we experimentally determine the required level of air pressure in the receiver by spraying paint on any surface. The enamel should lie evenly, without jerking. The amount of excess pressure is determined using a pressure gauge and should be such that when you press the aerator button, its level does not change abruptly.
Assembling such a model of compressor will not be difficult, but you will immediately be convinced of the effectiveness of repairs using a compressor rather than using cans of paint. The main thing is to follow the rule - no moisture or dust should get into the car chamber, and, therefore, then into the spray gun. Otherwise, they will mix with the car enamel, and all the painting work will need to be done again. Assembled model will work properly, but it is better to automate the air injection and make additional changes to the design.
Semi-professional compressor for DIY painting
According to experts, homemade compressors with receivers have a longer service life than models from domestic and foreign manufacturers. And this is understandable - everything is done with your own hands and, even if some part fails, replacing it will be a matter of a couple of minutes. Let's consider how to make an air compressor that is not inferior to products from well-known companies from easily available materials that we will need according to the list below:
- Pressure gauge
- Gearbox with oil and water separating filter
- Pressure control relay
- Gasoline fuel filter
- Plumbing crosspiece (quad) with three-quarter internal thread
- Threaded adapters
- Car clamps
- Compressor motor
- Receiver
- Semi-synthetic motor oil with viscosity 10W40
- 220 volt toggle switch
- Brass tubes
- Oil resistant hose
- Thick board for base
- Pharmacy syringe
- Rust converter
- Studs, nuts, washers
- Sealant, fum tape
- Metal paint
- Needle file
- Furniture wheels
- Diesel engine power supply filter
Finding all the components is not difficult; you should start with the heart of the entire system - the air blower.
Engine – actuator of an automatic compressor
We will use a compressor from an old refrigerator as an engine. As a rule, they are equipped with a start relay, which is very convenient for constantly maintaining a certain level of pressure in the receiver. It is preferable to use compressors from old Soviet-style refrigerators; they allow you to pump higher pressure than their imported counterparts.
After removing the control unit from the old refrigerator, clean it of accumulated dirt and rust. Then treat with a rust converter to prevent further oxidation. This will prepare the engine housing for further painting.
Next, you should change the oil in the compressor. Rarely has a refrigerator undergone regular maintenance and lubricant replacement, which is quite justified - the system is completely isolated from the effects of the atmosphere. You can use semi-synthetic motor oil; it is in no way inferior to compressor oil and, in addition, has many useful additives.
There are three tubes on the compressor - 2 open and one sealed. The open ends are intended for air circulation, one of the tubes is the inlet, the other is the outlet. To determine which path the air is taking, briefly apply power to the compressor. And remember which duct draws in air and which exhausts.
The sealed tube is intended for routine oil changes. The closed end must be carefully removed. To do this, we file the tube in a circle with a needle file, trying to prevent metal filings from getting inside the system. Then we break off the sawn-off tip and drain the old oil into some container to determine the amount to be replaced. And pour semi-synthetic into a little more using a syringe.
Then the engine lubrication system must be turned off. To do this, select a screw of the appropriate size, wrap it with tape to seal it, and screw it into a tube. The blower from the refrigerator tends to sweat grease - that is, on weekends air stream there are droplets of oil. They will be retained by the oil/moisture separator for the compressor. With our own hands, we then mount the engine with the starting relay on a wooden base in the position in which it was attached to the frame.
The compressor relay is sensitive to its position in space and its top cover is often marked with an arrow. Only when correct installation the process of switching modes will proceed correctly.
Compressed air container
Fire extinguisher cylinders are best suited for storing compressed air. They are designed for high pressure, have a large margin of safety and are ideal for installation attachments. Let's consider the metal body of an OU-10 fire extinguisher with a working volume of 10 liters as a receiver. This cylinder is designed for a pressure of 15 MPa or 150 bar with a large margin of safety.
We unscrew the locking and starting device (ZPU) from the future receiver and in its place we screw in an adapter, onto the threads of which we wrap fum tape to seal it. If the fire extinguisher has traces of corrosion, they must be removed using abrasives and a rust converter.WITH outside everything is easy to do, and with inner surface you'll have to tinker a little. To do this, pour a rust remover inside the bottle according to the instructions and shake the contents thoroughly. Then we screw in the plumbing cross, using sealant and fum tape for sealing. So, the two main parts of our compressor are ready, and we can proceed to the next stage.
Installation of device parts
For ease of storage and movement, it is best to arrange all compressor parts compactly on one base. We will use as a basis wooden board, on it we securely fasten the engine - supercharger and fire extinguisher housing.
We fix the compressor motor using threaded rods threaded through the drilled holes, and nuts and washers. We place the receiver vertically, using three sheets of plywood to secure it, in one of which we cut a hole for the cylinder.
We attach the other two using self-tapping screws to the supporting board and glue them to the sheet holding the receiver. Under the bottom of the receiver, at the base, we hollow out a recess of appropriate size. For maneuverability, we screw wheels made from furniture fittings to our base. Next we perform the following operations:
Now all that remains is to paint the entire compressor and move on to field testing.
Adjusting the pressure in the receiver chamber
After assembling the structure, you should check its functionality. We connect a spray gun or a tire inflation gun to the compressor output. After that, with the toggle switch off, turn on plug to the network. We set the control relay to minimum pressure and then apply power to the supercharger. The pressure created in the receiver is controlled using a pressure gauge. After making sure that when a certain level is reached, the relay turns off the engine, we check the tightness of the air ducts and connections. This is easy to do with a soap solution.
After making sure that the compressed air does not leave the system, we bleed it from the receiver chamber. As soon as the pressure in the cylinder drops below the set mark, the relay should operate and start the compressor. If everything is functioning properly, you can try painting some unnecessary detail. Preliminary work There is no need to prepare the surface for applying enamel - it is important for us to develop skills and determine what pressure will be required to paint the product. We experimentally determine the value in atmospheres at which the excess pressure is enough to paint the entire part in a uniform layer with a minimum number of blower activations.
As you can see, creating a car compressor with your own hands is not particularly difficult. A device made according to the second option requires more time to manufacture, but it will all pay off with further use. System automatic control pressure and start-up of the supercharger will allow you to work with greater convenience, without being distracted by control over the receiver chamber. The compressor can be used not only for car care. You can use it to paint a fence or garage door.
In order for a self-made compressor to serve for a long time and properly, routine maintenance should be carried out. This is, first of all, regular oil changes and timely replacement of filter elements. Since we have securely attached the motor to the base, there is no point in unscrewing it. We use a syringe to drain the oil. Having unscrewed the screw that closes the filler hole, put the hose tightly on the tube and pump out the waste. We also pump in fresh engine oil using a syringe. With filters everything is simpler - we change them as they become dirty and the filling rate of the receiver chamber decreases.
The alternative is to do it yourself or buy ready-made products?
Today, the market for air compressor offerings is replete with variety. Piston, vibration, screw and many other classes of these devices are produced for various purposes. Ready-made compressors can be bought in stores household appliances, auto parts, on specialized websites. The variety of products offered is so great that choosing the required product will take a lot of time. If you decide to purchase finished device, study carefully specifications, price range and customer reviews.
Of course, it is better not to save money and purchase expensive products from famous brands. But a big-budget purchase is only worth it if you plan to repair cars professionally. Choosing little-known products is fraught with unjustified risks. Cheap models make mistakes low-quality materials. It often happens that engine parts fly out instantly, and repairs under warranty take several months.From a reliability standpoint, hand-made assembly wins in many respects. Firstly, according to statistics, compressors in refrigerators have been operating for decades. And the old refrigerator is thrown away not because of a broken engine, but because of a refrigerant leak or corrosion of the walls and bottom. And there is nothing to say about the fire extinguisher - they are made with a tenfold safety margin, which is immediately checked at the factory. So maybe you shouldn’t buy a pig in a poke, but make the device yourself? Moreover, after studying the material, you know how to make a compressor with your own hands at home. A well-made and properly functioning device will not only please the owner, but will also become the envy of fellow car enthusiasts.
Compressor in the garage It will always come in handy: pump up the wheels, paint them, “blow out” some parts, etc.
Somehow I came across a single-cylinder compressor for a GAZ 66, an electric motor and a pair of receivers; I took the main ideas from the Internet. Therefore, I will not dwell on the principle of operation (everything is clear), but I will only post a photo and a short description homemade compressor for the garage.
Receivers
Two scuba tanks turned up by chance, which gave birth to the idea of building a compressor. There are two drain valves at the bottom to drain condensate. On the right receiver there is an outlet valve, on the left there is a hose for connecting containers with compressor.
I attached three wheels, weak, but enough to move around the garage, the top one with a turning axle. The wheels are taken from an old medical cart. devices.
Crankcase for a homemade compressor
The GAZ 66 compressor did not have a crankcase cover, so we had to make a homemade one. I used a pipe sector with a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 5 mm. The edges of the sector were bent and leveled into a plane, and a 25X25 mm corner was welded to the ends. I cut off the excess corner. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the lid and installed a drain plug (10 mm bolt). I made guides for fastening from a 30x50 mm corner.
Manifold for devices
There were no additional holes in the receivers for installing instruments (pressure gauge, emergency sensor).
I thought for a long time about what to make a manifold from to install them on the pipeline. The idea arose to use the old VAZ clutch master cylinder. At first glance, everything is simple - weld two fittings and that’s it. But I was faced with the fact that it is impossible to make a high-quality weld, the metal from which the cylinder is made contains a lot of carbon. It “boils” during electric welding, welded it in several layers, filled it with glue from the inside to seal it. Later, this technology did not justify itself, and the collector was replaced by the GAZ-66 receiver, which has enough holes for instruments.
DIY compressor layout.
Electric motor 1.5 kW, three-phase 220/380, 1500 rpm. installed on skids, it can be moved to tension the belt. secured with 4 M10 bolts.
The compressor is mounted on skids with crankcase cover bolts.
Homemade compressor starting capacitors
For the operation of such an engine, according to calculations, it is necessary to operate 152 µF and release 250 µF, but it turned out to be sufficient for operation and start-up at a pressure of up to 4 ATM C = 106 µF. But if the pressure is higher, then it is necessary to add a starting capacitor. I estimate that at a pressure of about 8 ATM, the standard power will be 1.2 kW, at 4-5 ATM it will be lower. Conclusion: the capacitor capacity I selected is sufficient. Capacitors of different types for breakdown voltage 500-630V are placed in boxes around the engine. The boxes are fixed to the frame and covered with a steel casing. The capacitor housings are insulated from the compressor housing with rubber gaskets. Gas station 10A was used for switching on. Connection to the network is carried out using a 3-wire circuit (the housing is connected to ground)
The photo shows a homemade air filter. Made from a bottle of injector cleaner and a coffee can, with mesh and foam inside.
Compressor drive and cooling.
A VAZ 2101 belt is used for the drive. The drive pulley is homemade, the driven pulley is from a ZIL 130 compressor. For cooling, a VAZ 2121 fan is placed on the compressor axis on top of the pulley and centered with a washer. The drive is protected by a casing.
Crankcase lubrication and ventilation.
To improve lubrication of the crank mechanism, three holes are drilled in the connecting rod and bearings. Central channel crankshaft, connected to a container (GCS tank of a VAZ car) with a flexible oil-resistant hose. Excess oil enters it; when the compressor is running, oil can also be added.
A special feature of the GAZ 66 compressor is that it is single-cylinder; during operation, the pressure in the crankcase changes, which is not desirable. I got rid of the shortcoming: I drilled a hole in the body, cut an M10 thread, screwed in a fitting and connected it to the oil tank. I enlarged the hole in the tank lid to 8mm and installed a rubber membrane with slots.
General view of the compressor.
All parts are covered with shields made of 1.5 mm steel. That's all. The idea arose to add a box to save space in the garage, of which there is never too much.
Place for tools.
An aluminum box was attached to the top of the engine and the capacitor “battery”. I plan to store tools and accessories in it. Seen in the photo at the beginning of the article.
