The installation or reconstruction of a heating system involves the installation or replacement of heating devices. The good news is that, if you wish, you can handle this yourself without the involvement of specialists. How heating radiators should be installed, where and how to place them, what is needed to carry out the work - all this is in the article.
What is needed for installation
Installation of heating radiators of any type requires devices and consumables. Kit necessary materials almost the same, but for cast iron batteries, for example, the plugs are large, and they don’t install a Mayevsky valve, but instead, somewhere at the highest point of the system, they install an automatic air vent. But the installation of aluminum and bimetallic heating radiators is absolutely the same.
Steel panel panels also have some differences, but only in terms of hanging - they come with brackets, and on the back panel there are special arms cast from metal, which heating device clings to the hooks of the brackets.
Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent
This is a small device for releasing air that may accumulate in the radiator. Placed on the free upper outlet (collector). It must be on every heating device when installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators. The size of this device is significantly smaller than the diameter of the manifold, so you will also need an adapter, but Mayevsky taps usually come complete with adapters, you just need to know the diameter of the manifold (connection dimensions).
In addition to the Mayevsky crane, there are also automatic air vents. They can also be installed on radiators, but they are slightly larger in size and for some reason are only available in a brass or nickel-plated case. Not in white enamel. In general, the picture is unattractive and, although they deflate automatically, they are rarely installed.
Stub
The side-connected radiator has four outputs. Two of them are occupied by the supply and return pipelines, on the third they install a Mayevsky valve. The fourth entrance is closed with a plug. It, like most modern batteries, is most often painted with white enamel and does not spoil the appearance at all.
Shut-off valves
You will need two more ball valves or shut-off valves that can be adjusted. They are placed on each battery at the input and output. If these are ordinary ball valves, they are needed so that, if necessary, you can turn off the radiator and remove it (emergency repairs, replacement during heating season). In this case, even if something happens to the radiator, you will cut it off, and the rest of the system will work. The advantage of this solution is the low price of ball valves, the disadvantage is the impossibility of adjusting heat transfer.
Almost the same tasks, but with the ability to change the intensity of the coolant flow, are performed by shut-off control valves. They are more expensive, but they also allow you to adjust the heat transfer (make it less), and they look better externally; they are available in straight and angular versions, so the piping itself is more accurate.
If desired, you can install a thermostat on the coolant supply after the ball valve. This is a relatively small device that allows you to change the heat output of a heating device. If the radiator does not heat well, you cannot install them - it will be even worse, since they can only reduce the flow. There are different thermostats for batteries - automatic electronic ones, but more often they use the simplest one - mechanical.
Related materials and tools
You will also need hooks or brackets for hanging on walls. Their number depends on the size of the batteries:
- if there are no more than 8 sections or the length of the radiator is no more than 1.2 m, two mounting points on top and one on the bottom are sufficient;
- For every next 50 cm or 5-6 sections, add one fastener at the top and bottom.
You also need fum tape or linen winding, and plumbing paste to seal the joints. You will also need a drill with drills, a level (preferably a level, but a regular bubble one will do), and a certain number of dowels. You will also need equipment for connecting pipes and fittings, but it depends on the type of pipes. That's all.
Where and how to place
Traditionally, heating radiators are installed under the window. This is necessary so that the rising warm air cuts off the cold from the window. To prevent the glass from sweating, the width of the heating device must be at least 70-75% of the width of the window. It must be installed:
How to install correctly
Now about how to hang the radiator. It is very desirable that the wall behind the radiator is level - this makes it easier to work. Mark the middle of the opening on the wall, draw a horizontal line 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the top edge of the heating device is leveled. The brackets must be installed so that the top edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal. This arrangement is suitable for heating systems with forced circulation(if there is a pump) or for apartments. For systems with natural circulation they do slight slope- 1-1.5% - along the coolant flow. You can’t do more - there will be stagnation.
Wall mount
This must be taken into account when installing hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed like dowels - a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled in the wall, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heating device is easily adjusted by screwing in and unscrewing the hook body.
Hooks for cast iron batteries are thicker. This is a fastener for aluminum and bimetallic
When installing hooks under heating radiators, keep in mind that the main load falls on the upper fasteners. The lower one serves only to fix it in a given position relative to the wall and is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to hang the radiator.
When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation location, see where the bracket “fits,” and mark the location on the wall. After placing the battery, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, and the bracket is screwed. Having installed all the fasteners, hang the heating device on them.
Floor fixing
Not all walls can support even lightweight aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of or covered with plasterboard, it is required floor installation. Some types of cast iron and steel radiators come directly with legs, but not everyone is satisfied with their appearance or characteristics.
Floor installation of heating radiators made of aluminum and bimetallic is possible. There are special brackets for them. They are attached to the floor, then the heating device is installed, the lower collector is secured with an arc to installed legs. Similar legs are available with adjustable height and some with a fixed height. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - with nails or dowels, depending on the material.
Options for piping heating radiators
Installation of heating radiators involves connecting them to pipelines. There are three main connection methods:
- saddle;
- one-sided;
- diagonal.
If you install radiators and bottom connection, you have no choice. Each manufacturer strictly binds the supply and return, and its recommendations must be strictly followed, since otherwise you simply will not get heat. There are more options with a side connection ().
Strapping with one-sided connection
One-way connection is most often used in apartments. It can be double-pipe or single-pipe (the most common option). Still used in apartments metal pipes, therefore we will consider the option of piping the radiator steel pipes on the slopes. In addition to pipes of a suitable diameter, you need two ball valves, two tees and two bends - parts with external threads at both ends.
All this is connected as shown in the photo. With a one-pipe system, a bypass is required - it allows you to turn off the radiator without stopping or draining the system. You cannot put the tap on the bypass - you will block the flow of coolant through the riser, which is unlikely to make your neighbors happy and, most likely, you will be fined.
All threaded connections are sealed with fum tape or linen winding, over which packaging paste is applied. When screwing the valve into the radiator manifold, much winding is not required. Too much of it can lead to the appearance of microcracks and subsequent destruction. This is true for almost all types of heating devices, except cast iron. When installing all the others, please do not be fanatical.
If you have the skills/opportunity to use welding, you can weld the bypass. This is what the piping of radiators in apartments usually looks like.
With a two-pipe system, a bypass is not needed. The supply is connected to the upper entrance, the return is connected to the lower entrance, taps, of course, are needed.
With bottom wiring (pipes laid on the floor), this type of connection is made very rarely - it turns out inconvenient and ugly; in this case, it is much better to use a diagonal connection.
Strapping with diagonal connection
Installing heating radiators with diagonal connections is the best option in terms of heat transfer. In this case it is the highest. With bottom wiring, this type of connection is easy to implement (example in the photo) - the supply on this side is at the top, the return on the other is at the bottom.
A single-pipe system with vertical risers (in apartments) does not look as good, but people put up with it because of the higher efficiency.
Please note that with a one-pipe system, a bypass is again required.
Strapping with saddle connection
With bottom wiring or hidden pipes, installing heating radiators in this way is the most convenient and least noticeable.
With a saddle connection and lower single-pipe wiring, there are two options - with and without bypass. Without a bypass, the taps are still installed; if necessary, you can remove the radiator and install a temporary jumper between the taps - a squeegee (a piece of pipe of the required length with threads at the ends).
At vertical wiring(risers in high-rise buildings) this type of connection can be seen rarely - the heat losses are too large (12-15%).
Video tutorials on installing heating radiators
The need for proper installation of heating radiators arises both when replacing a single device and when installing the entire system. It is the latter option that is reasonable to consider in detail and in detail.
The heating season in our country lasts at least six months, so a lot depends on the heat circulation system: not only the comfort of living quarters, but also human health, heating costs and the relevance of its repair. Let's consider the main schemes for supplying heat to apartments and residential buildings:
- Cast iron radiators. Massive classic devices, “guests from the past.” They are used on a residual basis and are no longer produced by modern industry. They are characterized by low heat transfer and an appearance that has to be decorated - curtains, slats, etc. Which further reduces circulation warm air in room;
- Aluminum sectional radiators. Lightweight, reliable and efficient devices for the heating system. Approximately 50% of the coolant energy comes from convection into the room (for cast iron analogues this figure barely reaches 25%). Equipped with convenient pressure/flow regulators and an attractive design;
- Steel sectional radiators are very similar in appearance to aluminum ones - but at the same time they are much more massive and somewhat more expensive in terms of price. The main advantage of the design of steel heating devices is their high resistance to corrosion. If the water in the heating system is hard and contains acidic or alkaline impurities, it is wise to choose such batteries. The installation of steel heating radiators must take into account their significant weight;
- Bimetallic radiators - have the best performance characteristics and the highest cost (about 20% higher than aluminum sections) Withstand high pressure in the system, operate in the range from 20 to 40 atmospheres. All other varieties described above can operate at a water pressure in the system of 15–25 atmospheres.
The standard service life of bimetallic radiators is up to 25 years, steel and aluminum - at least 20 years. In reality, they can last up to half a century. Of course, under the obvious condition - if the system is selected and connected correctly.
When replacing a single heating device (for example, the cast iron sections are leaky), it is important to pay attention to the center distance, hole diameter and thread pitch. It is best to measure these parameters with a tape measure and calipers. There are many types of heating devices on the market and in stores, their design features differ from each other. You can purchase a device that looks like a failed battery, but it will not work during installation.
When the entire system is changed, or heating is installed anew (for example, in a new house or apartment), a correctly drawn up project is important:
- For pipes – direct and return – it is best to choose plastic ones with a metal layer, used for hot water supply. In the characteristics permissible temperature water must exceed the temperature in the system by at least 10 ˚C;
- The best places to install the selected heating radiators are the space under the windows or on one side of long blank walls. This ensures better circulation of warm air in the apartment/house;
- The sectional design of the batteries allows you to vary their length, and therefore the power of the heating system. Correct connection provides for the presence of from 6 (minimum) to 15 (maximum) sections per radiator;
- Average standard for 1 square meter heated room is 0.7–1.1 sections made of aluminum, steel or bimetal. In rooms with an area of more than 15–20 m2, installation is recommended;
- In addition to the main pipes and the batteries themselves, you should stock up required quantity connecting fittings, angles, brackets and other accessories. To drill holes in ceilings and walls, you will need a hammer drill with a long drill and a special “iron” for welding PVC pipes.
Of course, all installed batteries must be from the same company (and preferably from the same batch). Similar requirements apply to the pipeline system. Let's look at how to install a heating radiator and connect it after installation in more detail.
The site’s site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate required quantity sections.
Installation and connection of radiators - step-by-step instructions
The installation of new heating radiators should be divided into several stages:
How to install and connect heating radiators with your own hands - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: First things first – batteries!
At wall installation For heating radiators, batteries are first installed. This is done using two (for more than 10 sections - three) brackets, which are pre-hammered into the wall. The inlet and outlet water pipes are protected with special plugs. It is important to accurately align each radiator both horizontally and relative to the wall. This will not only give the entire system an attractive design, but will also increase the service life of the heating circuit.
The brackets must be able to withstand heavy loads. They are buried into the wall by at least 10 cm. The backlash and vibration of the brackets should be minimal (a few millimeters 20 cm from the wall).
Step 2: Well, and only then the pipes
Some new homes have special holes in the floor slabs for piping systems. If these holes are not available, they are punched with a puncher, with a double reserve in diameter. For example, for two pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, a common hole of at least 50 mm is punched. Pipe cutting is done with a grinder, or for a small amount of work - with a hacksaw.
The placement of pipeline diagrams strictly vertically is a condition for their long and problem-free service. First, the entire riser is welded with an iron, then it is secured to the wall with special clamps. We use a level and a hammer drill (as with the heating radiators themselves). Next, taps are made to the batteries themselves.
Content
When installing or reconstructing a heating system, replacement or installation of batteries is often required. Installation of heating radiators can be done on your own, without resorting to the help of specialists, but only by strictly observing the requirements of SNiP. When performing work, both theoretical knowledge and practical experience will be required, because even the slightest mistake can lead to problems during operation of the heating system.
Radiator battery installation
Necessary theory
There are two types of heating systems that are most widely used these days:
- single-pipe;
- two-pipe.
A special feature of single-pipe systems is the supply of coolant to the house from top to bottom. This scheme is used in most typical apartment buildings. The disadvantage of the system is the inability to control temperature conditions in a home without installation additional equipment. With this heating method, the water in the radiators is at upper floors will be significantly warmer than those located below.
Heating system installation At two-pipe heating the heated coolant is supplied through one pipe, and the water that has given up its heat circulates through the second (return) pipe. This heating system is used in cottages and private houses. The advantage of two-pipe systems is the relative constancy of the temperature of the batteries and the ability to regulate the heating mode.
Radiator installation diagrams
The differences in installation schemes lie in the way they are connected to a private or centralized network.
The most common schemes are the following:
- Lateral connection. Allows you to achieve the greatest heat transfer.
The supply pipe is connected to the pipe located at the top, and the return pipe to the bottom. When connected in reverse (water supply from below), the power of the system is reduced. - The connection is diagonal. Optimal for batteries of considerable length, characterized by minimal heat loss.
In this case, the radiators are heated evenly. The inlet pipe is connected to one side of the upper pipe, and the outlet pipe is connected to the reverse side of the bottom pipe. - The lower connection (“Leningradka”) is used for hidden pipe laying.
Connection diagram options Installation of heating devices according to this scheme, characterized by significant heat loss, is used when laying heating pipes in the area of the lower ceiling.
What is needed for installation
To secure heating devices, you will need to purchase various materials and additional devices. Their set is almost identical, but for cast iron batteries, for example, larger diameter plugs will be required, and the installation of an air vent instead of a Mayevsky tap.
The installation of bimetallic and aluminum batteries is absolutely the same.
When choosing a radiator, you should take into account that many manufacturers provide a warranty on devices only when installed by organizations that have the appropriate license.
Required tools and materials
When installing radiators with your own hands, you will definitely need to use brackets or holders. Their number is determined depending on the size of the radiators:
- if you plan to install the device in no more than eight sections or up to 1.2 m in length, two points will be enough for reliable fastening - above and below;
- Every subsequent 5-6 sections or 50 cm of battery length requires adding another pair of fasteners.
To install batteries you also need to purchase:
- linen winding or fum tape;
- drill with a set of drills;
- level;
- dowels;
- elements for connecting fittings and pipes.
Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent
The Mayevsky tap is a device that is used at an unoccupied upper outlet. Serves to remove accumulated air. Such a device must be installed on each heating device when installing aluminum or bimetallic batteries. The cross-section of the Mayevsky tap is much smaller than the cross-section of the collector, therefore the connection is made using an adapter device supplied in the kit.
Mayevsky crane In addition to the Mayevsky tap, you can also install automatic air vents on the battery, manufactured in nickel-plated or brass. For standard batteries, devices in white enamel housing are not available.
Stub
When connected to the side, the radiator has four outlets. Two of them are for supply and return, the third is occupied by the Mayevsky valve or air vent, and the fourth needs to be closed with a plug. They are made from a variety of materials to suit any type of battery.
Shut-off and control valves
To install and connect the battery correctly, you will also need a pair of shut-off or control valves installed at the inlet and outlet of each battery. Ordinary ball valves are required to quickly disconnect the device from the network during dismantling. The system will continue to work.
The advantage of ball valves is their low cost, the disadvantage is the inability to regulate heat transfer.
Ball Valves The same functions, but with the ability to regulate the intensity of the coolant flow, can be performed by regulating shut-off valves. Their cost differs greatly, but, at the same time, their aesthetic characteristics are higher. They can be angular or straight.
You can also place a thermostat on the supply pipe behind the ball valve - a small device that allows you to change the heat transfer of the radiator. However, if the battery does not heat well, thermostats cannot be installed, as they will reduce the already low flow. Heat transfer can be controlled by turning the knob to the required division (mechanical devices) or by pre-programming the operating mode of the radiator (electronic thermostats).
Rules and installation procedure
As a rule, a heating device is installed under the window, since the rising heated air cuts off the cold coming from the opening. To prevent glass fogging, the width of the radiator must be chosen to be 70–75% of the width of the window.
Basic installation rules
SNiP recommends the following rules for installing heating radiators to indentations:
- The heating radiator is installed exactly in the middle of the window opening. Before installation, the width is divided into two, then to the right and left side distances to the points of location of fastening elements are set aside.
- The radiator should retreat from the floor level to a height of 8–14 cm. A smaller interval will lead to difficulties during cleaning, and a larger interval will lead to the formation of zones of unheated air.
- Radiators should be hung at a distance of 10–12 cm from the windowsill. If you place the device closer, convection will worsen and heat transfer will decrease.
- The distance from the wall to the radiator should be about 3–5 cm; this is the gap size that can ensure unhindered heat distribution and normal convection. If the location is too close to the walls, dust will accumulate on the back surface of the batteries, which is quite difficult to remove.
Taking into account the requirements of SNiP, it is possible to determine the optimal length of the battery and select a model that corresponds to specific conditions.
Distance from battery to window sill and floor The above rules are the same for all types of radiators. Individual manufacturers set their own standards, which must be followed. Therefore, before purchasing, it is necessary to study the installation requirements and make sure that they can be met in specific conditions.
Work order
Installing a heating radiator with your own hands requires careful attention to each stage of work, taking into account every detail. To hang sections, experts recommend using three attachment points: two upper and one lower.
Any sectional battery is hung on holders through the upper collector. Thus, the mount located at the top bears the main load, and the holder located at the bottom serves as a guide and fixing element.
Features of the work The process of installing heating batteries is carried out in several stages:
- Marking and installing holders.
- Installation of components on the battery.
Modern heating systems require the installation of an automatic or manual air vent. The device is screwed into the adapter and placed on the upper manifold opposite the connection point of the supply pipe.
Unused collectors must have plugs installed.
If the diameters of the supply and return pipes differ from the cross-section of the collectors, adapters supplied as part of the standard kit should be installed. - Installation of regulating and locking devices.
Regardless of the accepted connection diagram, in any system, shut-off valves in the form of full-bore ball valves are installed at the battery input and output points, allowing the battery to be dismantled without stopping the system in case of repair work or Maintenance. The only condition is the presence of a bypass when installing the battery in apartments with a vertical type of wiring.According to expert recommendations, an automatic or manual thermostat should be installed as a control device. The standards for installing heating radiators do not classify these devices as mandatory; they are required to maintain a temperature in the room that is comfortable for the owners.
- Hanging on brackets.
Radiators are supplied in protective film. Before installing the heating radiator, you should not remove the film from the surface - it will protect from dirt and scratches, since the battery is usually installed at the beginning of repair work. If the radiator is installed to replace the old one, the film can be removed immediately after hanging. - Connecting the supply and return pipes.
The connection depends on the circuit. The type of connection (crimped, threaded, welded or pressed) is selected based on the pipes and fittings used. - Pressure testing of the system or radiator.
When filling the system with coolant yourself, the taps should be opened little by little. Rapidly opening the taps will lead to water hammer, which can damage the battery and destroy the fittings.
Subtleties of attaching to the wall
Each battery manufacturer provides its own instructions, which outline requirements and installation tips. But one requirement is the same: the radiator should be mounted on a pre-leveled and cleaned wall.
Wall mount Correct fastening of the brackets affects the efficiency of the heating system. Too much slope or skew in any direction can lead to incomplete heating of the battery, to eliminate which you will have to rehang the device. Therefore, when preparing the surface and making markings, the vertical and horizontal positions should be strictly observed. The battery must be hung evenly relative to all planes.
It is allowed to lift it by 1 cm from the side where the air vent is installed, which will cause air to accumulate in this area and make it easier to remove. Sloping in the opposite direction is not allowed.
When installing bimetallic radiators and other types of batteries with low mass, hanging should be done on a pair of hooks located on top. If the length of the device is short, they should be placed between the last two sections. The location of the third bracket must be selected in the middle from the bottom. The hooks can be sealed with mortar after installation.
Hooks for fastening aluminum and bimetallic sections At self-accommodation holes are drilled at the designated points of the brackets, and wooden plugs or dowels are installed. The holders are fastened with self-tapping screws with a length of 35 mm and a diameter of at least 6 mm. Such requirements are standard; the norm for a specific battery model is indicated in the technical data sheet.
Panel radiators are installed a little differently. Such devices are supplied with special fastening elements, the number of which depends on the size of the device.
To hang the heating radiator on its rear surface there are special brackets. To install fasteners, you need to know the distance from the center of the battery to the brackets and transfer it as marks on the wall. Next, applying fasteners, holes for dowels are marked. The steps are simple: drilling, installing dowels, securing the brackets with self-tapping screws.
Features of installing radiators in an apartment
Rules reviewed self-installation allow you to connect batteries in autonomous and centralized heating systems.
Before replacing or installing batteries, please note that work must be carried out after obtaining permission from the operator or management company– the heating system is considered common property. A significant change in network characteristics leads to system imbalance.
Bypass installation Installing heating radiators in an apartment has another feature. Vertical single-pipe distribution requires the installation of a bypass - a special jumper between the supply pipe and the return pipe. In combination with ball valves, the bypass allows you to turn off the battery in case of an emergency or other urgent need. The system continues to function, as the heated water passes through the bypass.
A bypass will also be required when installing a battery with a thermostat.
Conclusion on the topic
The process of installing heating batteries, if you follow the instructions outlined in the article, should not raise any additional questions. With proper preparation, compliance with the sequence of work and a responsible attitude, the system will effectively serve for several decades.
You can purchase an arbitrarily powerful heating boiler, but still not achieve the expected warmth and comfort in your home. The reason for this may well be incorrectly selected final heat exchange devices indoors, as which are traditionally most often radiators. But even assessments that seem to be quite suitable according to all criteria sometimes do not meet the expectations of their owners. Why?
And the reason may lie in the fact that the radiators were connected according to a scheme that is very far from optimal. And this circumstance simply does not allow them to show those output heat transfer parameters that are announced by manufacturers. Therefore, let's take a closer look at the question: what are the possible connection diagrams for heating radiators in a private house. Let's see what the advantages and disadvantages of certain options are. Let's see what technological techniques are used to optimize some circuits.
Necessary information for the correct choice of radiator connection diagram
In order to make further explanations more understandable to the inexperienced reader, it makes sense to first consider what a standard heating radiator is, in principle. The term “standard” is used because there are also completely “exotic” batteries, but the plans of this publication do not include their consideration.
Basic design of a heating radiator
So, if you depict a regular heating radiator schematically, you might get something like this:
From a layout point of view, this is usually a set of heat exchange sections (item 1). The number of these sections can vary over a fairly wide range. Many battery models allow you to vary this amount, adding or decreasing, depending on the required thermal total power or based on the maximum permissible dimensions of the assembly. For this purpose, there is provision between the sections threaded connection using special couplings (nipples) with the necessary sealing. Other radiators do not have this possibility; their sections are tightly connected or even form a single unit metal structure. But in the light of our topic, this difference is not of fundamental importance.
But what is important is the hydraulic part of the battery, so to speak. All sections are united by common collectors located horizontally at the top (item 2) and bottom (item 3). And at the same time, each section provides for the connection of these collectors with a vertical channel (item 4) for the movement of coolant.
Each of the collectors has two inputs, respectively. In the diagram they are designated G1 and G2 for the upper collector, G3 and G4 for the lower.
In the vast majority of connection schemes used in heating systems of private houses, only these two inputs are always used. One is connected to the supply pipe (that is, coming from the boiler). The second is to the “return”, that is, to the pipe through which the coolant returns from the radiator to the boiler room. The remaining two entrances are blocked by plugs or other locking devices.
And what’s important is that the efficiency of the expected heat transfer of the heating radiator largely depends on how these two inputs, supply and return, are mutually located.
Note : Of course, the diagram is given with a significant simplification, and many types of radiators may have their own characteristics. So, for example, in the familiar cast iron batteries of the MS-140 type, each section has two vertical channels connecting the collectors. And in steel radiators and there are no sections at all - but the system of internal channels basically repeats the one shown hydraulic diagram. So everything that will be said below applies equally to them.
Where is the supply pipe and where is the return pipe?
It is quite clear that in order to correctly optimally position the inlet and outlet to the radiator, it is necessary to at least know in which direction the coolant is moving. In other words, where is the supply and where is the “return”. And the fundamental difference may be hidden in the type of heating system itself - it can be single-pipe or
Features of a single-pipe system
This heating system is especially common in high-rise buildings; it is also quite popular in single-story individual construction. Its wide demand is primarily based on the fact that significantly fewer pipes are required during creation, volumes are reduced installation work.
To explain it as simply as possible, this system is one pipe running from the supply pipe to the inlet pipe of the boiler (as an option - from the supply to the return manifold), onto which series-connected heating radiators seem to be “strung”.
On the scale of one level (floor) it might look something like this:
It is quite obvious that the “return” of the first radiator in the “chain” becomes the supply of the next one - and so on, until the end of this closed loop. It is clear that from the beginning to the end of a single-pipe circuit, the coolant temperature steadily decreases, and this is one of the most significant disadvantages of such a system.
It is also possible to arrange a single-pipe circuit, which is typical for buildings with several floors. This approach was usually practiced in the construction of urban apartment buildings. However, you can also find it in private houses with several floors. This should also not be forgotten if, say, the owners got the house from the old owners, that is, with the heating circuits already installed.
There are two possible options here, shown below in the diagram under the letters “a” and “b”, respectively.
Prices for popular heating radiators
- Option “a” is called a riser with top coolant supply. That is, from the supply manifold (boiler) the pipe rises freely to the high point riser, and then sequentially passes down through all radiators. That is, the supply of hot coolant directly to the batteries is carried out in the direction from top to bottom.
- Option “b” - single-pipe distribution with bottom supply. Already on the way up, along the ascending pipe, the coolant passes a series of radiators. Then the flow direction changes to the opposite, the coolant passes through another string of batteries until it enters the “return” collector.
The second option is used for reasons of saving pipes, but it is obvious that the disadvantage of a single-pipe system, that is, the temperature drop from radiator to radiator along the coolant flow, is expressed to an even greater extent.
Thus, if you have a single-pipe system installed in your house or apartment, then in order to select the optimal radiator connection diagram, you should definitely clarify in which direction the coolant is supplied.
Secrets of the popularity of the Leningradka heating system
Despite quite significant disadvantages, single-pipe systems still remain quite popular. An example of this is described in detail in a separate article on our portal. And another publication is devoted to that element without which single-pipe systems are not able to operate normally.
What if the system is two-pipe?
A two-pipe heating system is considered more advanced. It is easier to operate and lends itself better to fine adjustments. But this is against the backdrop of the fact that more material will be required to create it, and installation work is becoming more extensive.
As can be seen from the illustration, both the supply and return pipes are essentially collectors to which the corresponding pipes of each radiator are connected. An obvious advantage is that the temperature in the supply pipe-collector is maintained almost the same for all heat exchange points, that is, it almost does not depend on the location of a particular battery in relation to the heat source (boiler).
This scheme is also used in systems for houses with several floors. An example is shown in the diagram below:
In this case, the supply riser is plugged from above, as is the return pipe, that is, they are turned into two parallel vertical collectors.
It is important to understand one nuance correctly here. The presence of two pipes near the radiator does not mean that the system itself is two-pipe. For example, with a vertical layout there may be a picture like this:
This arrangement can mislead an owner who is inexperienced in these matters. Despite the presence of two risers, the system is still single-pipe, since the heating radiator is connected to only one of them. And the second is a riser that provides the upper supply of coolant.
Prices for aluminum radiators
aluminum radiator
It's a different matter if the connection looks like this:
The difference is obvious: the battery is embedded in two different pipes - supply and return. That is why there is no bypass jumper between the inputs - it is completely unnecessary with such a scheme.
There are other schemes two-pipe connection. For example, the so-called collector (it is also called “radial” or “star”). This principle is often resorted to when they try to place all the circuit distribution pipes secretly, for example, under the floor covering.
In such cases, a collector unit is placed in a certain place, and from It already has separate supply and return pipes for each of the radiators. But at its core, it is still a two-pipe system.
Why is all this being said? And besides, if the system is two-pipe, then to select a radiator connection diagram it is important to clearly know which of the pipes is the supply manifold and which is connected to the “return”.
But the direction of flow through the pipes themselves, which was decisive in a single-pipe system, no longer plays a role here. The movement of the coolant directly through the radiator will depend solely on the relative position of the tie-in pipes into the supply and return.
By the way, even in conditions not the most big house A combination of both schemes may well be used. For example, a two-pipe system is used, however, in a separate area, say, in one of the spacious rooms or in an extension, several radiators connected according to the single-pipe principle are placed. This means that when choosing a connection diagram, it is important not to get confused, and to individually evaluate each heat exchange point: what will be decisive for it - the direction of flow in the pipe or the relative position of the supply and return collector pipes.
If such clarity is achieved, you can select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators to the circuits.
Diagrams for connecting radiators to the circuit and assessing their effectiveness
Everything said above was a kind of “prelude” to this section. Now we will get acquainted with how you can connect radiators to the pipes of the circuit, and which method provides maximum heat transfer efficiency.
As we have already seen, two radiator inputs are activated, and two more are muted. What direction of movement of the coolant through the battery will be optimal?
A few more preliminary words. What are the “motivating reasons” for the movement of coolant through the radiator channels.
- This is, firstly, the dynamic fluid pressure created in the heating circuit. The liquid tends to fill the entire volume if conditions are created for this (there are no air jams). But it is quite clear that, like any flow, it will tend to flow along the path of least resistance.
- Secondly, the difference in temperature (and, accordingly, density) of the coolant in the radiator cavity itself becomes the “driving force”. Hotter flows tend to rise, trying to displace cooler ones.
The combination of these forces ensures the flow of coolant through the radiator channels. But depending on the connection diagram, the overall picture can vary quite a bit.
Prices for cast iron radiators
cast iron radiator
Diagonal connection, top feed
This scheme is considered to be the most effective. Radiators with such a connection show their full capabilities. Usually, when calculating a heating system, it is this that is taken as the “unit”, and for all the others one or another correction reduction factor will be introduced.
It is quite obvious that a priori the coolant cannot encounter any obstacles with such a connection. The liquid completely fills the volume of the upper manifold pipe and flows evenly through vertical channels from the upper to the lower manifold. As a result, the entire heat exchange area of the radiator is heated evenly, and maximum heat transfer from the battery is achieved.
Single-sided connection, top feed
Very common diagram - this is how radiators are usually installed in a single-pipe system in the risers of high-rise buildings with top supply, or on descending branches with bottom supply.
In principle, the circuit is quite effective, especially if the radiator itself is not too long. But if there are many sections assembled into a battery, then the appearance of negative aspects cannot be ruled out.
It is quite likely that the kinetic energy of the coolant will be insufficient for the flow to fully pass through the upper collector to the very end. The liquid looks for “easy paths”, and the bulk of the flow begins to pass through the vertical internal channels of the sections, which are located closer to the inlet pipe. Thus, it is impossible to completely exclude the formation of a stagnation area in the “peripheral zone”, the temperature of which will be lower than in the area adjacent to the side of the cut-in.
Even with normal radiator dimensions along the length, you usually have to put up with a loss of thermal power of approximately 3–5%. Well, if the batteries are long, then the efficiency may be even lower. In this case, it is better to use either the first scheme, or use special methods for optimizing the connection - a separate section of the publication will be devoted to this.
Single-sided connection, bottom feed
The scheme cannot be called effective, although, by the way, it is used quite often when installing single-pipe heating systems in multi-storey buildings, if the feed is from below. On the ascending branch, builders will most often install all the batteries in the riser this way. and, probably, this is the only at least somewhat justified case of its use.
Despite all the similarities with the previous one, the shortcomings here only get worse. In particular, the occurrence of a stagnation zone on the side of the radiator away from the inlet becomes even more likely. This is easy to explain. Not only will the coolant look for the shortest and freest path, but the difference in density will also contribute to its upward movement. And the periphery may either “freeze” or the circulation in it will be insufficient. That is, the far edge of the radiator will become noticeably colder.
Loss of heat transfer efficiency with such a connection can reach 20÷22%. That is, it is not recommended to resort to it unless absolutely necessary. And if circumstances leave no other choice, then it is recommended to resort to one of the optimization methods.
Two-way bottom connection
This scheme is used quite often, usually for reasons of hiding the supply pipe from visibility as much as possible. True, its effectiveness is still far from optimal.
It is quite obvious that the easiest path for coolant is the lower collector. Its spread upward through vertical channels occurs solely due to the difference in density. But this flow is hindered by counter flows of cooled liquid. As a result, the upper part of the radiator can warm up much more slowly and not as intensely as we would like.
Losses in the overall efficiency of heat exchange with such a connection can reach up to 10÷15%. True, such a scheme is also easy to optimize.
Diagonal connection with bottom feed
It is difficult to think of a situation in which one would be forced to resort to such a connection. Nevertheless, let's consider this scheme.
Prices for bimetallic radiators
bimetallic radiators
The direct flow entering the radiator gradually wastes its kinetic energy, and may simply not “finish” along the entire length of the lower collector. This is facilitated by the fact that the flows in the initial section rush upward, both along the shortest path and due to the temperature difference. As a result, on a battery with large comic sections, it is quite likely that a stagnant area with a low temperature will appear under the return pipe.
Approximate loss of efficiency, despite the apparent similarity with the most optimal option, with such a connection are estimated at 20%.
Two-way connection from above
Let's be honest - this is more for an example, since applying such a scheme in practice would be the height of illiteracy.
Judge for yourself - a direct passage through the upper manifold is open for liquid. And generally no other incentives for spreading throughout the rest of the radiator volume. That is, only the area along the upper collector will actually heat up - the rest of the area is “outside the game.” It is hardly worth assessing the loss of efficiency in this case - the radiator itself becomes clearly ineffective.
The upper two-way connection is rarely used. Nevertheless, there are also such radiators - distinctly high ones, often simultaneously serving as dryers. And if you have to install pipes this way, then you must use various ways transforming such a connection into an optimal circuit. Very often this is already built into the design of the radiators themselves, that is, the top one-sided connection remains so only visually.
How can you optimize the radiator connection diagram?
It is quite understandable that any owners want their heating system to show maximum efficiency with minimal energy consumption. And for this we must try to apply the most optimal insert diagrams. But often the pipework is already there and you don’t want to redo it. Or, initially, the owners plan to lay the pipes so that they become almost invisible. What to do in such cases?
On the Internet you can find many photographs where they try to optimize the insert by changing the configuration of the pipes suitable for the battery. The effect of increasing heat transfer must be achieved, but outwardly some works of such “art” look, frankly, “not very good.”
There are other methods to solve this problem.
- You can purchase batteries that, although outwardly no different from ordinary ones, still have a feature in their design that turns one or another possible connection method into one as close to optimal as possible. IN in the right place a partition is installed between the sections, which radically changes the direction of movement of the coolant.
In particular, the radiator can be designed for bottom two-way connection:
All the “wisdom” is the presence of a partition (plug) in the lower collector between the first and second sections of the battery. The coolant has nowhere to go, and it rises vertical channel of the first section up. And then, from this upper point, further distribution, quite obviously, already proceeds, as in the most optimal diagram with a diagonal connection with supply from above.
Or, for example, the case mentioned above, when both pipes need to be brought from above:
In this example, the baffle is installed on the upper manifold, between the penultimate and last sections of the radiator. It turns out that there is only one path left for the entire volume of coolant - through the lower entrance of the last section, vertically along it - and then into the return pipe. Eventually " route The fluid flow through the battery channels again becomes diagonal from top to bottom.
Many radiator manufacturers think through this issue in advance - whole series go on sale, in which the same model can be designed for different insertion patterns, but in the end the optimal “diagonal” is obtained. This is indicated in the product data sheets. At the same time, it is also important to take into account the direction of the insertion - if you change the flow vector, the entire effect is lost.
- There is another possibility to increase the efficiency of the radiator using this principle. To do this, you should find special valves in specialized stores.
They must correspond in size to the selected battery model. When such a valve is screwed in, it closes the adapter nipple between the sections, and then into it internal thread the supply or return pipe is packed, depending on the design.
- Shown above internal partitions are designed primarily to improve heat transfer when batteries are connected on both sides. But there are ways for one-sided insertion - we're talking about about the so-called flow extenders.
Such an extension is a pipe, usually with a nominal diameter of 16 mm, which is connected to the radiator plug and, when assembled, ends up in the cavity of the manifold, along its axis. On sale you can find such extensions for the required type of thread and the required length. Or you can simply purchase a special coupling, and select a tube of the required length for it separately.
Prices for metal-plastic pipes
metal-plastic pipes
What does this achieve? Let's look at the diagram:
The coolant entering the radiator cavity travels through the flow extension to the far upper corner, that is, to the opposite edge of the upper manifold. And from here its movement to the outlet pipe will again be carried out according to the optimal “diagonal from top to bottom” pattern.
Many masters practice and self-production similar extension cords. If you look at it, there is nothing impossible about it.
It can be used as an extension cord itself metal-plastic pipe For hot water, with a diameter of 15 mm. Will only be left with inside Pack a fitting for metal plastic into the battery passage plug. After assembling the battery, the extension cord of the required length is put into place.
As can be seen from the above, it is almost always possible to find a solution on how to turn an ineffective battery insertion scheme into an optimal one.
What can you say about the one-way bottom connection?
They may ask in bewilderment - why the article has not yet mentioned the diagram of the lower connection of the radiator on one side? After all, it enjoys quite wide popularity, since it allows for hidden pipe connections to the maximum extent.
But the fact is that the possible schemes were considered above, so to speak, from a hydraulic point of view. And in them series of one-way bottom connection there is simply no space - if at one point both the coolant is supplied and taken away, then no flow through the radiator will occur at all.
What is commonly understood under the bottom one-way connection in fact, it only involves connecting pipes to one edge of the radiator. But the further movement of the coolant through the internal channels, as a rule, is organized according to one of the optimal schemes discussed above. This is achieved either by the design features of the battery itself, or by special adapters.
Here is just one example of radiators specifically designed for piping On the one side bottom:
If you look at the diagram, it immediately becomes clear that the system of internal channels, partitions and valves organizes the movement of the coolant according to the principle already known to us “one-way with supply from above”, which can be considered one of them optimal options. There are similar schemes that are also supplemented with a flow extender, and then the most effective “diagonal from top to bottom” pattern is generally achieved.
Even an ordinary radiator can be easily converted into a model with a bottom connection. To do this, purchase a special kit - a remote adapter, which, as a rule, is immediately equipped with thermal valves for thermostatic adjustment of the radiator.
The upper and lower pipes of such a device are packed into the sockets of a conventional radiator without any modifications. The result is a finished battery with a bottom one-sided connection, and even with a thermal regulation and balancing device.
So, we figured out the connection diagrams. But what else can affect the heat transfer efficiency of a heating radiator?
How does its location on the wall affect the efficiency of the radiator?
You can purchase a very high-quality radiator, apply the optimal connection diagram, but in the end you will not achieve the expected heat transfer, if you do not take into account a number of other important nuances its installation.
There are several generally accepted rules for the location of batteries in a room relative to the wall, floor, window sills, and other interior items.
- Most often, radiators are located under window openings. This place is still unclaimed for other objects, and besides this, the flow of heated air becomes a kind of thermal curtain, which largely limits the free spread of cold from the surface of the window.
Of course, this is just one of the installation options, and radiators can also be mounted on walls, regardless of the presence of those window openings– it all depends on the required number of such heat exchange devices.
- If the radiator is installed under a window, then they try to adhere to the rule that its length should be about ¾ the width of the window. This will ensure optimal heat transfer and protection against the penetration of cold air from the window. The battery is installed in the center, with a possible tolerance of up to 20 mm in one direction or another.
- The radiator should not be installed too high - a window sill hanging over it can turn into an insurmountable barrier to rising convection air currents, which leads to a decrease in the overall efficiency of heat transfer. They try to maintain a clearance of about 100 mm (from the top edge of the battery to the bottom surface of the “visor”). If you can’t set the entire 100 mm, then at least ¾ of the radiator thickness.
- There is a certain regulation of clearance from below, between the radiator and the floor surface. Too much high location(more than 150 mm) can lead to the formation of a layer of air along the floor covering that is not involved in convection, that is, a noticeably cold layer. Too small a height, less than 100 mm, will introduce unnecessary difficulties during cleaning; the space under the battery can turn into an accumulation of dust, which, by the way, will also negatively affect the efficiency of thermal output. Optimal height– within 100÷120 mm.
- The optimal location from the load-bearing wall should also be maintained. Even when installing brackets for the battery canopy, take into account that there must be a free gap of at least 20 mm between the wall and the sections. Otherwise, dust deposits may accumulate there and normal convection will be disrupted.
These rules can be considered indicative. If the radiator manufacturer does not give other recommendations, then you should follow them. But quite often, the passports of specific battery models contain diagrams that specify the recommended installation parameters. Of course, then they are taken as the basis for installation work.
The next nuance is how open the installed battery is for complete heat exchange. Of course, the maximum performance will be with a completely open installation on a flat vertical wall surface. But, quite understandably, this method is not used so often.
If the battery is located under a window, then the window sill may interfere with the convection air flow. The same, even to a greater extent, applies to niches in the wall. In addition, they often try to cover radiators, or even completely closed them (with the exception of the front grille) with casings. If these nuances are not taken into account when choosing the required heating power, that is, the thermal output of the battery, then you may well be faced with the sad fact that achieving the expected comfortable temperature- does not work.
The table below shows the main possible options installation of radiators on the wall according to their “degree of freedom”. Each case is characterized by its own indicator of loss of overall heat transfer efficiency.
| Illustration | Operational features of the installation option |
|---|---|
 | The radiator is installed so that nothing overlaps the top, or the window sill (shelf) protrudes no more than ¾ of the thickness of the battery. In principle, there are no obstacles to normal air convection. If the battery is not covered with thick curtains, then there is no interference with direct thermal radiation. In calculations, this installation scheme is taken as a unit. |
 | The horizontal “visor” of a window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. That is, a rather significant obstacle appears to the ascending convection flow. With normal clearance (which was already mentioned above - about 100 mm), the obstacle does not become “fatal”, but certain losses in efficiency are still observed. Infrared radiation from the battery remains in full. The final loss of efficiency can be estimated at approximately 3÷5%. |
 | A similar situation, but only on top there is not a canopy, but a horizontal wall of a niche. Here the losses are already somewhat greater - in addition to simply the presence of an obstacle to the air flow, some of the heat will be spent on unproductive heating of the wall, which usually has a very impressive heat capacity. Therefore, it is quite possible to expect heat losses of approximately 7 - 8%. |
 | The radiator is installed as in the first option, that is, there are no obstacles to convection flows. But on the front side, its entire area is covered with a decorative grille or screen. Significantly reduced infrared intensity heat flow, which, by the way, is the determining principle of heat transfer for cast iron or bimetallic batteries. The overall loss of heating efficiency can reach 10÷12%. |
 | A decorative casing covers the radiator on all sides. Despite the presence of slots or grilles to ensure heat exchange with the air in the room, both thermal radiation and convection are sharply reduced. Therefore, we have to talk about a loss of efficiency reaching 20–25%. |
So, we examined the basic schemes for connecting radiators to the heating circuit, and analyzed the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. Information was obtained on the methods used to optimize circuits if, for some reason, it is impossible to change them in other ways. Finally, recommendations are provided for placing batteries directly on the wall - indicating the risks of loss of efficiency that accompany selected installation options.
Presumably, this theoretical knowledge will help the reader choose correct scheme based on from the specific conditions for creating a heating system. But it would probably be logical to end the article by providing our visitor with the opportunity to independently evaluate the required heating battery, so to speak, in numerical terms, with reference to a specific room and taking into account all the nuances discussed above.
There is no need to be scared - all this will be easy if you use the offered online calculator. Below you will find the necessary brief explanations for working with the program.
How to calculate which radiator is needed for a particular room?
Everything is quite simple.
- First, the amount of thermal energy required to warm up the room is calculated, depending on its volume, and to compensate for possible heat losses. Moreover, a fairly impressive list of diverse criteria is taken into account.
- Then the resulting value is adjusted depending on the planned radiator insertion pattern and the features of its location on the wall.
- The final value will show how much power a radiator needs to fully heat a particular room. If you purchase a collapsible model, then you can at the same time
Here you can find materials on such a topic as installing heating radiators in an apartment: video and photo materials, preparatory work, installation rules, how to properly install cast iron, bimetallic and aluminum radiators.
The warmth in an apartment often depends on very simple things: old or new radiators are installed, what material they are made of and what circuit the heating system is connected to.
By changing the quality of one of the components that affects home heating, you can arrange “summer” at a very affordable price.
Installing heating radiators in an apartment is not such a difficult procedure if you know the rules and have the necessary tools at hand.
Norms and rules for replacement
According to the standards given in SNiP, you can easily figure out which batteries to purchase for replacement and how to change them.
To know how to properly install heating radiators in an apartment, you will need to consider the following points:
- New batteries must withstand the same or higher pressure loads as the old ones. In the presence of centralized system heating, just call the organization that supplies heat to apartment house and find out the necessary indicators.
- The material from which they are made must be compatible with old pipes. If, for example, you connect to steel risers copper radiators, then you will soon have to face a problem such as corrosion.
- Standards for installing heating radiators in an apartment require that the distance between them and the bottom of the window sill be at least 10 cm, otherwise the heat flow will not be able to be released from the required speed, and the rooms will either take longer to warm up, spending more time on it, or remain cool.
- The distance of the bottom of the battery from the floor should correspond to a minimum gap of 10 and a maximum of 15 cm. If these indicators are reduced or increased, this will also affect the quality of heat exchange in the apartment.
- The same applies to the distance between the radiator and the wall. It should be equal to 20 mm, and then everything will be normal with heat exchange in the rooms.
All rules for installing heating batteries in an apartment are taken into account in SNiP, so it is enough to familiarize yourself with them, check the indicators of the old system and make the right choice when purchasing new elements and connecting them.
Read below on how to properly install a heating battery in an apartment.
Installation of heating batteries in an apartment
Preparatory work
Advice to trust the experts when dealing with centralized heating multi-story building, not at all idle. Any “amateur activity” in this regard is punishable. Incorrectly selected radiators or pipes for risers or their incorrect connection can leave the entire entrance without heat or cause a serious accident.
Installing heating batteries (radiators) in an apartment with your own hands is only permissible if you follow all the rules and have the necessary tools.
Once the radiator replacement scheme has been agreed upon with the relevant services, you can begin preparatory work:
- Shut off the water, both in the apartment and in the areas to be replaced.
- Drain old batteries and remove them.
- Blow out the system and remove any remaining coolant.
- Install a new radiator according to the manufacturer's instructions.
- Test the system for leaks and the quality of heating of the battery elements.
If a high-rise building uses a single-pipe heating circuit, then connecting radiators with a larger number of sections than before is prohibited.
How to install a heating radiator in an apartment?
Options for installing heating batteries in an apartment - photo:
Features of installing cast iron batteries
Modern cast iron batteries are quite elegant and presentable, so they can “fit” into any interior. In addition, they are the ones who most often comply with the norms of the old system.
How to install heating batteries in an apartment?
To be produced correct installation heating batteries in the apartment, you must follow the following sequence of actions:
- The cast iron section must be disassembled into individual elements.
- Tighten the nipples with a special wrench.
- Reassemble all elements in reverse order.
Although the appearance of cast iron batteries is strikingly different from the old Soviet “accordions”, they still have considerable weight. To reduce the load on the walls, you can use brackets, and if their surface is made of plasterboard, then such a battery will require a floor stand.
If cast iron batteries are installed at a slight angle, this will allow maintaining a high degree of heat transfer, since air will not accumulate inside it.
Rules for installing bimetallic and aluminum radiators
Aluminum batteries offered on the domestic market come in two types:
- Those that can withstand pressure up to 16 atm. and designed for high-rise buildings.
- Those that are suitable for autonomous heating with a working pressure of up to 6 atm. The latter are not suitable for connecting to a centralized system.
The peculiarity of their installation is:
- The battery cells must be assembled by inserting plugs with gaskets.
- Install shut-off and thermostatic valves, screw in the Mayevsky tap.
- According to the installation diagram, mark the attachment points in relation to the window sill.
- Fix the brackets in the marked places and hang aluminum radiators on them.
- Connect them to the heating system and test.
This type of battery can be used in both single-tube and two-pipe scheme connections.
Bimetallic radiators are by far the most expensive on the market, but also the most in demand.
This is due to the fact that they are based on 2 types of metals - aluminum on the outside, which allows you to maintain a high degree of heat transfer, and steel on the inside, which is not affected by the quality of the coolant, which protects the elements from corrosion.
The installation of this type of heating radiators is no different from the others, the only thing that needs to be taken into account is their compatibility with pipes. If they are metal, then there will be no problems, whereas metal-plastic ones are not always suitable.
When you need to create warmth and comfort, the question of how much it costs to install a heating radiator in an apartment is not so significant. In general, taking into account the purchase of new elements, dismantling old ones and connecting to the system, this pleasure is not cheap. You can save money by doing all the work yourself.
Based on the above, we can conclude: You can change the batteries in your apartment yourself if you comply with all SNiP standards, select elements of the new design that are of suitable quality and follow the instructions when installing them.
