The housing issue has always been quite acute for us. Many young families have to live with their parents for decades, because not everyone can bear the burden of a mortgage. Today we will find out how to buildDIY container house. This method of construction is good because it takes only a few months, and the effort that needs to be put in is minimal.
This technology was developed abroad, where, as you know, they are not used to wasting money, and they resort to all kinds of savings - they buy everything on sales, recycle materials several times, etc.
To build the house, we will use twelve-meter iron containers weighing 4.5 tons and with a cross-section of 2.7x2.4 m (these are standard dimensions). The area of each of these containers will be about 30 m².
- This design easily withstands natural disasters - hurricanes, earthquakes, etc.
- The containers themselves can later be hidden, for example, with clapboard, and plasterboard can be used for interior decoration. So a house made from a container will not be any different from a regular one.
- The resident of a container house does not have to be afraid of the penetration of rodents or insects.
- Container houses are suitable for any climatic conditions, the main thing is to have high-quality thermal insulation.
- The cost is approximately three times lower than using other technologies.
- The container can be combined with other building modules - brick, reinforced concrete, etc.
- Construction takes only a few months, and if you limit yourself to minimal finishing, then even two to three weeks.
- Houses made from containers do not require a solid foundation - they can even be placed on compacted earth.
- Finally, containers can be used to make not only a residential building, but also a commercial building or even an extension to an existing house.
It is also worth noting that containers are widely used on frosty soil. Often, entire housing bases are built from them (mainly those intended for sea transportation) in the Far North and Antarctica.
Video - DIY container house
Building a house from containers: step-by-step instructions
So, we’ve sorted out the advantages of container houses, now let’s proceed directly to the construction process. For work we will need:
- railway containers, 2 pcs.;
- timber 10x10 cm;
- timber 6x6 cm;
- boards with a section of 10x4 cm and a minimum length of 8 m;
- boards with a section of 15x2.5 cm and a length of 6 m;
- self-tapping screws 1.3 cm long;
- Chipboard 27.5x12x1.6 cm;
- corrugated sheets of galvanized steel;
- plumbing bolts 2.2 cm long;
- a pair of six-meter reinforced concrete piles with a section of 350x350 mm;
- mineral wool MP-50;
- corrugated sheet S-10;
- Geiger counter;
- welding machine;
- screwdriver;
- “grinder” and discs for it (ø20 cm, minimum 30 pcs.);
- gasoline generator.
Stage one: purchasing containers
We are buying two containers at once; it will cost (including delivery) about 100,000 rubles. After delivery, we check them for radiation. It would seem that this is unnecessary, but in reality it is in such containers that residual radiation “likes” to collect.
Note! The average background radiation rate for our latitudes is 35 microroentgens per hour.
Stage two: foundation
A monolithic foundation is certainly not suitable in our case. It will quickly crack and be squeezed out of the ground (the latter, in turn, will begin to sag). For this reason, the foundation should be minimalistic, just like our future home.
Note! If our house starts to sink, we can always simply lift the container.
We make a regular “pillow” from any inert material, for example, gravel. Next, we install piles on the gravel (with delivery they will cost 9,000 rubles) - in parallel, at a distance of 6 meters from each other. As a result, we should get a perfect square.
Stage three: installation of containers
We cannot install the containers on our own, although they weigh relatively little - about 5-6 tons. To do this, we resort to the services of special equipment. After installation, we securely weld the containers together using a gas generator and a welding machine.
Note! It is better to entrust this work to an experienced welder, who would weld the joint between the containers “in a circle.”
Stage four: interior work
Next, we proceed to the main work. Take a grinder and cut off all unnecessary elements interior walls, we cut through door and window openings. If the house is built in the summer (and in most cases it is), then by lunchtime it becomes too stuffy. In this case, we pick up the grinder only in the evening and early morning, and during the day we are busy installing the roof rafters and constructing the attic frame.
Stage five: roofing
Step 1. To make the attic frame, we use a beam with a cross-section of 10x10 cm. To attach the beams to the container, we take self-tapping screws and connect them together with special plumbing bolts.
Step 2. After assembling the frame, we install the rafters for the roof. Each of the rafters will be 8 m long, so, as mentioned earlier, we select the appropriate boards - otherwise they will have to be spliced together. We connect everything with the same self-tapping screws, and not with nails (the latter are less reliable).
- lay a vapor barrier film between the steel sheets and the sheathing.
- if for some reason it didn’t work out with the film, then on two sides of the house under the roof itself we install three 40-centimeter pipes ø10 cm to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space. We make holes for this in advance. These pipes will not be closed for the winter, because the attic is used mainly in the summer.
Of course, the first method of vapor barrier is simpler.
Note! Steel roofing, of course, is inexpensive, but during rain or strong wind it will be very noisy. Therefore it is preferable to use some soft material, for example, ondulin.
Stage six: insulating the house
To begin with, we install the sheathing from 6x6 cm beams (in increments of approximately 90 cm), attaching it with self-tapping screws to the walls of the containers. Then we take slabs of mineral wool (its dimensions are 6x100x300 cm) and lay them between the beams. We deliberately made the spacing of the beams smaller than the width of the slabs so that the wool would settle more tightly.
Stage six: outer skin
Everything is simple here: we take corrugated sheeting purchased in advance, preferably in light colors, and fix it to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.
Stage seven: interior arrangement
Regarding the interior decoration, it is almost the same as the exterior: the same sheathing beams and mineral wool, but we cover the insulation with chipboard sheets.
Note! We leave small gaps (about 1.5 cm) between the chipboard sheets, which we will fill later polyurethane foam– this will prevent dust from entering the house.
After this, we install double-glazed windows in the window openings, preferably double-chamber ones.
When insulating the floor, we use our usual scheme: we install the sheathing from the same timber and lay insulation mats. Next, we make the flooring using 15x4 cm boards, on top of which we lay the remaining chipboard.
Stage eight: oven
To install the stove, we make a rectangular cutout in the chipboard in a pre-selected location, after which we lay the brick stove directly on the metal bottom of the container. There is no need to worry that something will happen to the oven, and there are reasons for this.
- First of all, the bottom of the container can withstand quite heavy loads.
- The container itself is essentially an iron box. No matter how he bends, the oven will do it with him. We just have to make sure that the deviations are small - for this we will correct them in a timely manner.
So, after a year, the container house may settle a little (presumably to the south, since the soil warms up faster there). To fix this, lift one of the sides with a car jack and place it under it. paving slabs 50x50 cm. That's it, the house has been successfully returned to its original position.
Stage nine: communications
It is better to conduct electricity through special channels rather than through external walls. Firstly, it’s safer, and secondly, it’s more accurate. If desired, we can also arrange sewer system– to do this, just make a small hole in the floor through which sewage pipe will lead to a pre-dug drainage ditch or septic tank.
Regarding water supply, we cannot advise anything - it all depends on the specific living conditions and the chosen location.
Alternative. Buying a container house
If you have free cash, you can purchase a ready-made container house. Today there are many manufacturers of such housing, both Russian and Chinese. Thus, a medium-sized house (2.5x4 m) with insulation and finishing will cost about 90,000 rubles. It is quite enough for a comfortable stay of two or three people.
More expensive models(2.5 x 8 m) with plumbing and shower will cost approximately 170,000 rubles.
It is worth noting that such houses can be moved from place to place, but this, of course, must be done with extreme caution.
conclusions
So we built a container house - quite bearable a budget option housing for the average citizen. There's probably no need to explain why homemade house, which cost about 300,000 rubles, costs more than ready-made structures. For those who still do not understand this, we say: our house is twice as large, because it consists of two containers, and at the same time it is equipped with an attic.
Video – House made from shipping containers
In this article, Crazy Builder.ru will tell you how to do change houseDIY block container
It is not always possible to create conditions for temporary comfortable housing, or, say, a room where working tools would be stored during the construction or repair of a building. Regardless of what you plan to do, at the dacha only a temporary place of residence or to prepare a site for building a house, the issue of storage and temporary housing can easily be solved by a residential block container.
Today, block containers of various modifications and equipment are available for sale, which are fully adapted for housing. As a rule, delivery of such a container, as well as unloading and loading, is not always available.
This procedure will require significant financial costs not only for the purchase of a container, but also for the rental of special unloading and loading vehicles. Often the dimensions of such housing will be strictly limited.
It is much easier and more affordable when you make block containers yourself. In this case, you will not have to resort to outside help, hire expensive transport, or adhere to the factory dimensions of the block. The entire process of building a cabin will take only a few days.
The process of assembling a block container.
Step by step steps:
1 . The first thing you need to do is prepare reliable foundation. In the event that the container block is intended for temporary use, then they are quite suitable concrete blocks. We prepare and mark the site for the foundation. To do this, it must be cleared of debris, leveled and compacted in the area where the container block will be installed.
2. Next, we lay out concrete blocks along the perimeter of the site; this must be done in such a way that there is a point of contact in the corners and in the center of the structure. It is optimal to use nine blocks, which we place around the perimeter, in the corners and in the center of the site.
3. If you plan to use the change house for a long time, it may require installation columnar foundation. To do this, you will need to dig wells approximately 1 meter deep, and asbestos-cement pipes are best suited as formwork.
We build the frame of the container block.
Step 1. After preparing the foundation, we proceed to installing the frame. It is best to use timber with a cross-section of at least 15x15 centimeters for the frame post. If the cross-section is smaller, this will lead to the frame being fragile.
Step 3. After installing the frame, you need to start covering it. The first step is to choose which insulation to use, it depends on the region, time of year and duration of operation of the cabin.
If the container block is planned to be used only in summer period in hot weather, then the casing can be neglected. But much more often the cabin is insulated; this procedure is less expensive, but the advantages are obvious: fewer drafts, a better microclimate in the cabin and the possibility of operation in winter.
It is best to use mineral wool for insulation, which must be fixed in the sheathing. Inside the cabin we line all the walls with a vapor barrier, which we sew up with fiberboard sheets or laminated chipboard. We also cover the outer walls with an overlapping vapor barrier, then cover them with clapboard, block-high or corrugated sheeting.
As you can see, making a container container with your own hands does not require any specific knowledge and skills. Everything is quite simple and accessible.
Insulating the floor and erecting the roof.
1. We begin to insulate the floor, where it is necessary to lay a thick film and mineral wool on top of it. We carefully lay a vapor barrier on top of the cotton wool and install it edged boards. If the boards are a little damp or damp, then let them dry and cover them with paint and protective varnish. You can also simply put fiberboard sheets on top so as not to paint, but in this case the boards must be treated with an antiseptic.
2. At the construction stage, you need to decide what kind of roof you want to make, gable or lean-to. The second option seems to be the most accessible and less costly in terms of time and finances. Can be used as roofing material metal corrugated sheet, sheet metal, or modern metal tiles, which look more beautiful and high quality.
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During construction or simply for temporary residence in a country house, a simple-to-construct and unpretentious building is often required. As they say, cheap and cheerful. Often such temporary buildings are built from wood and have minimal functionality. But today it has become widespread the new kind temporary buildings - container block. It can serve as both temporary housing for builders and completely permanent housing for summer residents. It is quite easy to build a block container with your own hands, and its functionality will allow you to fully enjoy the fruits of civilization outside the city.
Types of block containers
When planning to build a block container on a site, you need to decide in advance what it will be like. This determines how much money and effort will be spent on its installation. The fact is that block containers, according to the method of assembly, can be divided into three types: self-assembled block container, converted from a transport container, and collapsible block container. Each of these types of block containers has its own advantages and disadvantages. Which one will be preferred depends only on the wishes and financial capabilities of the owners.
Most of these structures are built with your own hands from scratch and according to your own drawings. For their frame they use metal corners, For external walls corrugated sheets, interior decoration It is carried out by covering it with clapboard or plywood; stone or mineral wool is used as insulation. Distinctive feature such block containers are not standard sizes. In fact, such a block container can be made with your own hands of any size and shape. To erect the entire structure, you will need a welding machine and skill in working with it, which can be a decisive factor in favor of a self-assembled container.
Today, block containers converted from transport containers are especially popular. They have many advantages, but also a lot of disadvantages. The main advantage of such a container is the ready-made design, which only needs to be slightly modified. But such a disadvantage as standard sizes may not work in favor of a shipping container when choosing. Of course, it is quite suitable as temporary housing for workers, but as a seasonal country house it can turn out to be very inconvenient.
With the development of the market and technology in construction, block containers began to appear, which are easy to install and also easy to disassemble. Collapsible containers are very popular among construction companies. They can be disassembled and stored in a warehouse, fortunately, they take up little space, and if necessary, sheds can be quickly erected for workers at the construction site. The production of such block containers is carried out by specialized companies. The design itself is for the most part similar to a homemade block container, but the use of sandwich boards as walls, floors and ceilings clearly distinguishes a prefabricated block container. If you don’t want to bother with welding, then if you have a certain amount of money, you can purchase a ready-made block container and simply assemble it like a construction set. For a prefabricated block container the price ranges from 2,000 USD. up to 5,000 USD and depends on the internal area.
Installation of a block container
Having decided on the type of block container, you can begin installing it. As already noted, each type of block containers requires certain labor costs. The most labor-intensive is homemade. To create it, you will first have to complete a drawing, purchase materials, then assemble the frame and sheathe it. The simplest and least labor-intensive collapsible container. But the total cost may be higher. Let's look at how to assemble each of these types of block containers with your own hands.
Assembling a block container from scratch
When starting work on creating a homemade block container, the first thing you have to do is its drawing. For this you can use computer program, such as ArchiCad, or you can simply draw a simple drawing on a sheet of paper. The drawing must indicate all the dimensions of the future block container showing the installation location of the door and windows. For a self-made block container, you can choose almost any size convenient for you. But there is one important point. If in the future it is necessary to transport such a container, then its width should not exceed 2.5 m. To create a block container, the drawing must contain a description of all materials and dimensions. Special attention should be given to the frame, namely the installation location of the door and windows. The doorway and windows will require additional studs. Finally, we indicate the material for wall cladding and insulation. From materials you will need the following:
- for the frame, bent channel 100 mm;
- metal sheets 2 mm thick for subfloor;
- galvanized corrugated sheeting for external cladding;
- wooden beam OK 40x100 mm for joists and internal frame;
- boards 25x200 mm for the floor, as well as flooring, for example, linoleum;
- superdiffusion membrane for vapor and moisture protection;
- insulation (mineral or stone wool) for walls, floors and ceilings;
- plywood or plastic lining for interior cladding;
- windows and door.
From the tool you will need Bulgarian, welding machine, tape measure, drill, manual circular saw, hammer, screwdriver. As for wood fasteners, you can opt for screws or nails.
Having acquired everything necessary, we proceed to the construction of the block container. Begin from preparing the site for the installation of a block container. To do this, we level the ground and compact it thoroughly. To prevent the container from standing on bare ground, it is necessary to create a simple foundation for it. To do this, you can build brick columns, put concrete plates or create a pile foundation.
Next, we move on to cutting pieces of channel for the frame using a grinder. Having received required amount pieces the right size, let's start welding them. At the beginning create the bottom harness. To do this, we take channels corresponding to the length and width of the block container, lay them out on a previously prepared surface and weld them together into one continuous frame. During the welding process, corners can become loose, so to prevent this from happening, you need to grab the corner at several points, then check and, if everything is fine, then weld the entire seam to the end.
Important! To make a simple pitched roof, it is enough to cut several racks of greater length. Usually the racks on the door side are made longer. But this approach is justified if it is not planned to create a different type of roof.
Having welded the lower trim, let's move on to the racks. They will be located in the corners of the trim, one or two on the back wall, as well as in the area of the doorway and windows. We start from the corners. After the stand is installed, it is necessary for a partner to hold it in a strictly vertical position while the welder grabs the stand in several places. And if we managed to do it without tilting, then we finally weld the stand. For additional stability, triangular spacers can be welded at the bottom of the post. We weld all the other racks in the same way.
Important! The distance between the doorway posts should be equal to the width of the door. Also, for reliability, a jumper is welded between them at the top. The height from the lintel to the corner should be equal to the height of the door. The same applies to window openings. But in addition to the upper one, they must also have a lower jumper.
The next step would be welding of the top trim. Everything is quite simple here. Corners for the top trim are placed on top of the already welded perimeter racks and welded.
After the frame has been created, let's start arranging the floor for a block container. To do this, first create a subfloor from metal sheets. This is done in order to protect the finished wooden floor from exposure to moisture and the penetration of rodents into the block container. The sheets are laid out inside the frame. Their edges should be placed inside the bent channel and also rest on the foundation. When the sheets are laid out and their edges are fitted close to each other, we spot weld the sheets together. Then we place several narrow pieces of metal on top of the seam, so that they are placed perpendicular to the main seam, and weld them. Finally, we weld the sheets along the seam.
Further We proceed to covering the block container with galvanized corrugated sheeting. Everything is quite simple here. Sheets of corrugated sheets are started with inside frame. If the height of the sheets is slightly larger, then they can be trimmed with a grinder without much difficulty. The corrugated sheet is fixed to the frame in several ways. You can use short metal screws with a wide head, or you can fasten them with tear-off rivets.
Important! When installing sheets in window openings You should make a sheet overlap of 3 - 4 cm onto the window opening. This is necessary in order to hide the cracks and places filled with foam after installing the windows.
Having finished with the walls, go to the roof of the block container. For the roof itself we use the same corrugated sheeting. The only thing that will need to be done is to weld a few more jumpers between the walls to securely fasten the corrugated sheeting. Next, we lay the corrugated sheet itself and fix it to the metal frame.
The next step would be creation of a wooden frame, its insulation and cladding. The frame itself is needed for laying insulation so that the latter does not fall out or crumble. For this we use a wooden beam. First we install the racks, then we make jumpers between them. Inner dimensions between the racks and lintels must correspond to the size of the insulation, minus 5 - 10 mm for reliable fastening inside. Now we lay a superdiffusion membrane on top of the frame and fasten it to the wooden frame. Finally, insulation is placed inside the frame and a superdiffusion membrane is laid on top of it again. All that remains is to cover the walls with plywood or clapboard. We cover the ceiling in a similar way.
As for the floor, it will be on wooden joists laid on metal sheets. Its creation is similar to wall cladding. First we lay the joists. We choose the step between them so that the insulation fits there. Then we lay the insulation and lay the membrane on top. All that remains is to lay and secure the boards for the floor itself. The boards themselves need to be sharpened, fitted closely and secured to the joists with nails or self-tapping screws, and the finishing floor covering should be laid on top of them.
Now moving on to the windows and doors. Since such a block container is intended for temporary residence, it would not be superfluous to take care of durable and secure door. It would be best to make it yourself from steel sheets. But creating such a door requires great experience, so it’s easier to buy or make to order. The door itself is installed on metal hinges, which are welded to racks made of bent channel. When installing hinges, you must strictly ensure that they are on the same line. For metal door three loops are installed. Two on top, at a distance of 20 and 50 cm from the edge of the door, and one below, at a distance of 30 cm from the threshold. After which the doors are hung in place.
As for windows, there is one important point. Windows are vulnerable to break-ins, so they will need to be protected with bars. The grill itself is welded to a steel channel, which acts as a window opening. The windows themselves can be either wooden or metal-plastic. When installing, you need to check the verticality of the window so that it does not fall over. The gaps between window frame and the channel stand can be foamed. This completes the creation of a homemade block container. If desired, additional finishing work can be carried out inside.
Conversion of a ready-made sea container
The fashion for everything Western has also affected block containers. Today it has become popular to use block containers converted from sea shipping containers as cabins or even permanent housing. The cost of a block container converted from a transport container may be slightly higher compared to a home-made one, but the work required to equip it is an order of magnitude less.
To make a metal block container converted from a transport container, the first thing you have to do is select and purchase a used container itself. Ads for the sale of shipping containers can be found without problems. Such containers are produced in several sizes: standard and HC (High Cube). Respectively, 20 and 40 feet in length (6 and 12 meters), a width of 2.35 m and a height of 2.4 m and 2.7 m. A standard container can be found for an average of 1200 USD, and a HC container for 2100 USD. e. Such standard sizes impose certain restrictions, this is especially unpleasant with regard to the width of the container. But the solution to this situation can be the docking of two or more containers. To create a livable block container from a transport, you need to do the following:
- purchase one or more containers and deliver them to the site;
- while the containers are on the way, prepare and level the area for its installation;
- as in the case of homemade, under shipping container is created simple easy foundation;
- After delivery, the container is installed in place. To do this, you need to order a crane in advance;
- if the containers will be joined, then after installing them we cut off the touching walls using a grinder;
- at the junction, where the lower and upper trims pass, as well as the vertical posts, we weld them together;
- if there is only one container, then we proceed to cutting out openings for windows and doors. We do this using an autogen or grinder;
- for door security doorway you can install two vertical racks from a metal corner;
- further work will consist of finishing the block container. They are identical to the work described for a homemade block container. The only important difference will be the need exterior finishing, namely painting or cladding metal walls.
Of all the block containers, the most expensive and at the same time the easiest to assemble is the collapsible block container. Such containers are made to order at a specialized enterprise. A prefabricated block container has a standard width of 2.5 m, and its length can vary from 2.5 m to 6 m. It is also possible to create a block container of a longer length. The assembly of such a container is carried out by two assemblers and resembles a regular construction set, the assembly time is from 4 to 6 hours. Such high assembly rates are due to the use of sandwich panels and pre-fitted parts. When doing the assembly yourself for the first time, the company can provide its own specialist and a full set of assembly documentation.
Prefabricated containers are assembled in several stages. At the first stage, the frame is assembled and connected using bolts. On the second floor, the floor is laid and the roof is mounted. At the third stage, the walls are installed. Finally, the windows and doors are installed. In the photo demonstrating a collapsible block container, you can see how easy and simple such containers are to install.
There are no block containers in creating special secrets or difficulties. The main thing that is needed is the ability to handle the tool. Since it depends on this whether you can assemble the entire structure with your own hands. For those who are not used to or do not know how to work with their own hands, we can recommend hiring specialists and purchasing a ready-made block container.
