The lighting system is an integral attribute of the design of any room. This can be explained by the fact that chandeliers and lamps have an amazing ability to change the environment. Of course, the easiest way is to purchase lamps in a store. But it’s much more pleasant to make them yourself.
Materials that can be used to create chandeliers
What can a chandelier be made from? The answer to this question is: “Yes, from anything.” You can make a pendant lamp from:
- paper;
- thread;
- CDs;
- plastic bottles"
- cardboard;
- natural materials;
- kebab sticks, etc.
Your imagination will help you choose the material. She will also help you choose the right model. To create a chandelier, you can use techniques such as origami, carving, and embossing. In addition, it is appropriate to use knitting and weaving techniques.
Lamp made from kebab sticks
Let's look at step-by-step instructions on how to make an original chandelier using ordinary kebab sticks.
You will need:
- kebab sticks;
- organza ribbons;
- glue.
It is quite easy to make such a design:
We lay out the sticks so that they form a square and connect them with glue. The height of the chandelier depends on your preferences. But remember that you need to take into account the total amount of material available and the height of the ceiling.
We seal the top of the lamp with cut sticks. They can be laid parallel to each other or crosswise. Do not forget to leave a hole of the appropriate diameter for the cartridge in the central part.
After the glue has dried, we begin to decorate the chandelier. For this purpose, we tie colored organza ribbons at the protruding ends of the sticks. The more of them there are, the more beautiful the lamp will turn out.
We hang the resulting structure on a hook in the ceiling. This can be done using the same ribbons. Next, we fix the cartridge in it. The chandelier is ready!
Bottle chandelier
One of original ideas homemade chandeliers is a bottle chandelier. You will need:
- frame of an old chandelier;
- plastic bottles ( color palette can be very different);
- thick steel wire.
Creation instructions:
Cut the bottles. Cut flowers, animals or geometric figures. Which one to choose depends on your desire.
Attach the cut pieces to the frame of the old ceiling lamp and attach the steel wire. You need to make a “hedgehog” out of it.
To do this, you need to take several wire rods and connect them in the middle using a small piece of wire. Next, you need to cut off the top rod, thereby creating a place for the light bulb.
The last stage is connecting the chandelier to the ceiling. It's not that difficult to do it yourself. This lamp would be appropriate in the hallway or kitchen.
Wooden chandelier
To make a beautiful LED chandelier from wood with your own hands, you need to prepare the following things:
- Wooden planks – 12 pcs. Door frames will fit. It is optimal if they have a length of 0.3 - 0.45 m.
- Glass jars with a volume of 1 l – 6 pcs. They will be used as lampshades.
- Wood paint.
- Self-tapping screws.
- A machine for seaming homemade canned goods.
- White paint.
- Sandpaper.
Creating a wooden chandelier will require the following steps:
- You need to sand the planks using sandpaper.
- Make groove holes for the wire.
- Drill holes for mounting lampshades. To do this, take three planks and make a hole on each side.
- Cover the workpieces with paint that imitates natural wood.
- Assemble the planks using self-tapping screws into a single hexagonal structure.
- Make holes for the cartridge in the central part of the screw caps. Install sockets with LED bulbs.
- Roll up the cans.
- Paint the lids with tone paint, and the jars with light shades of paint. All that remains is to fix the structure to the ceiling.
Cardboard product
A chandelier made of ordinary cardboard can become a very unusual interior decoration. Here is a small master class:
- Using a stencil, cut out two identical pieces. Don't forget to make slots to secure them in the center. Connect the cut out parts.
- If necessary, paint the resulting structure.
- To give greater strength, sew all joints with strong thread or wire.
- Attaching to the ceiling occurs on a chain. The wire runs through them. It is optimal if they are painted to match the lighting fixture.
You can use a variety of things as decoration - glitter varnish, beads, sequins, lace, rhinestones, artificial flower arrangements, beads.
The same is done plastic chandelier. This product will be more durable. But scissors will not be used to make it the best option. It is preferable to use a jigsaw instead.
Today, the popularity of hand-made interior parts is only growing. A handmade chandelier is a reflection of your personality. It will give the whole atmosphere originality and uniqueness.
On the Internet you can easily find not only many different variations of homemade lamps, but also detailed instructions for repairing do-it-yourself chandeliers.
DIY photo of chandeliers
A chandelier is a rather expensive item, but technologically not so complicated. In any case, production processes that could not be carried out at home are almost not required to make a chandelier, or they can be replaced with similar manual ones that visually and reliably give the same effect.
Hobbyists have made and are making many ceiling lamps with their own hands. general lighting(and these are chandeliers), which have no analogues on the market and sometimes have a very extravagant appearance, see, for example, fig. We hope that the reader will not be interested in inventions either. However, unfortunately, in the scattering of images of homemade chandeliers on the Internet, samples that meet the safety and lighting requirements of residential premises are rarely found. More likely, very rarely.
This article discusses, first of all, how to properly make a chandelier yourself technologically and lighting-wise. There's nothing particularly complicated here; this is something like a Molière character who, it turns out, spoke in prose all his life. But it doesn’t hurt to know some basics. Moreover, an original harmonious design (which is by no means abandoned) also requires solid foundation, otherwise what can beauty stand on?
Note: for example, how you can make a chandelier for your living room with your own hands at home, see the video below. In terms of design, it will fit into any interior style that accepts clear forms, and this is a very wide range, from Chinese Mandarin to fusion.
Video: DIY chandelier from scrap materials
Therefore, the subtleties of design and construction of the main lighting equipment and at the same time decorative elements chandeliers – ; frame/support of lamps, which are also important as parts general design– . It would also be a good idea to learn about the general lighting design of residential premises. And in this article we will deal with what is common to all of them, plus the electrical part:
- Lighting engineering and design are the very beginning for household premises;
- Electrical fittings, mainly from a safety point of view;
- What to make lighting fixtures from, with an emphasis on the possibilities of manufacturing from scrap materials;
- Features of chandeliers for residential premises for various purposes;
- Choosing light sources for a particular chandelier.
Note: to those who doubt why there are any depths here, let it be known - homemade lamps are firmly in the top ten for household electrical injuries, fire danger and as a cause of visual impairment, especially in children.
What should you not be afraid of?
Wood and woodwork. Looking at the curly ones wooden parts chandeliers industrial production, it seems impossible to reproduce them at home. Meanwhile, a completely elaborate wooden chandelier frame can be made in a day or two with your own hands in the kitchen or on the balcony.The fact is that when wood is heated throughout its entire mass to 150-250 degrees, it softens and bends, and when it cools, it retains its given shape. You can heat a piece of wood to this temperature without charring it with a hair dryer. Just remember to pre-drill the axial holes (say, for wiring an electrical cable); this will not be possible in an already curved part.
Note: The wood that bends most easily when heated is light or medium-density, fine-grained - birch, maple, ash, linden. Bamboo and some types of tropical wood are generally bent when heated to 90-100 degrees by steaming in water vapor. Due to the homogeneity of its structure, MDF bends very well and accurately, but requires more heating.
Finally, quite elegant wooden chandelier can be made from non-bent parts: modern light sources make it possible to implement such a solution. Then the ceiling lamp is made in the form of a ceiling chandelier, see below.
What should you pay attention to?
For old Soviet chandeliers and household lamps in general. The USSR, as we know, was a very controversial phenomenon, which was especially clearly expressed in Soviet consumer goods. If you have an old Soviet-made home chandelier lying around in your closet, then its light-diffusing/light-transmitting parts are probably made of high-quality glass, and its porcelain/faience decorative parts are made of the same quality material. Let 1 “horn” out of 4-5 be broken, the remaining ones will be enough for a new homemade chandelier. Is the paint peeling? Now there are any washes on sale and excellent acrylic enamels. Are some of the pendants lost? From the others, you can also build something very beautiful, if only there was some creativity and taste.
Lighting and vision
About 10 years ago, the throughput was quite accurately measured using information from the optic nerve. It turned out to be 5-6 times less than the amount of information in the picture that the optical system of the eye draws on the retina, and scientists finally had to accept it as a fact: There's something like a video processor lurking somewhere in the eye. Suspicions about its presence arose 200 years ago, because certain visual illusions do not depend in any way on the physical and mental state of the subject. I had to assume, and now I am confident, that the picture that enters the brain is not raw, but somehow processed. From the point of view of lighting technology and the influence of the nature of lighting on health and well-being, this fact is also important: good lamp should provide light that is not only bright enough, but also even, soft, allowing you to clearly distinguish details different colors and not tiring to the eye.
Note: Let us remind the reader that the image on the retina is captured by two types of photoreceptors - rods and cones. The first are the most sensitive, but only perceive general brightness, which is why all cats are gray at night. There are 3 types of cones that perceive separately the red (R), green (G) and blue (B) regions of the color spectrum. Let us also recall that the eye is most sensitive to green rays, somewhat less to red and least to blue.
Spectra of light sources
Light with a continuous spectrum is least tiring for the eye, pos. 1 per pic: All visible details objects are more or less evenly illuminated. If the spectrum is limited, then those that do not fall into it are simply not visible. The eye processor does not need to “finish” anything, and this is what tires vision most of all and spoils it.
The fact is that in order to “complete” the poorly visible optics of the eye, it must refocus all the time and often, and the photodetecting system must change its accommodation, i.e. general level of sensitivity. This procedure is in some way similar to working out details in Photoshop by normalizing levels and “tightening up” thin curves, but those who know how to do this know: an initially very sluggish picture, if you definitely need to “stretch out” the details, it coarsens to “junk.” And if we're talking about about its own vision, the brain eventually begins to understand “junk” as the norm, and accordingly reconfigures the muscles of the eye and the algorithms of the visual processor, which leads to vision disorders.
Unfortunately, of the light sources that meet safety requirements for domestic conditions, only incandescent, conventional and halogen lamps provide a continuous spectrum. Firstly, according to modern requirements, they are uneconomical. Secondly, their spectra are thermal and therefore have a strong slope in the blue region. That is, it is impossible to achieve correct color perception in such lighting.
Nevertheless, incandescent lamps in household lamps are quite applicable: over millions of years of evolution, the human eye has become accustomed to correcting for yellowness, and visual disturbances in such lighting are possible only from its insufficient or excessive brightness. As for sodium lamps, which shine only in the yellow region, their light is also harmless to vision, but there is no need to talk about any adequate color perception.
Almost ideal color rendition can be achieved with the minimum possible visual fatigue using a synthetic or additive spectrum, pos. 2. The eye processor does not need to overexert itself: the tops of the R, G and B zones go slightly beyond the optimal illumination level for a given overall brightness, and at their junctions, restoring full detail requires simply adding up partial (private) images in the corresponding colors. As a result, the overall white level is almost linear and details of any color are clearly visible, and gray tones blend smoothly into each other.
And again unfortunately: The additive spectrum is provided only by the screens of good cathode ray tubes (picture tubes). Slowly but surely, fluorescent lamps (housekeepers) with 3-4 layer phosphor, individual samples of LED illuminators and TFT display screens will approach it, but before complete solution problems are still far away. Therefore, experienced and caring about their vision (which in in this case also the main working tool) graphic designers, photographers and artists who work on computers stubbornly cling to “tube” displays, buying professional ones at exorbitant prices or looking for used ones with a still intact tube.
Note: Light from sources with an additive spectrum is usually called extremely soft. In nature, the lighting is extremely soft - in the morning with light clouds, when the disk of the Sun is slightly visible through the clouds.
In everyday life, acceptable softness of light can be achieved by sources with an island spectrum, pos. 3. It looks like 3 solid limited ones, but this is the case when quantity turns into quality: having seen 3 zones of primary colors, the eye will definitely try to see what is between them. In the gaps between the islands, something is still visible, albeit at a level of illumination that is significantly less than optimal for a given accommodation. The peaks of the islands are also quite raised upward, but also within acceptable limits.
The island spectrum is provided by most housekeepers and good LED lamps; how to distinguish them immediately upon purchase from, let’s say, not very good ones, see below, in the section on illuminators. It is not advisable to do work that requires eye strain in this light, but you can read/write for 3-4 hours a day.
The island spectrum has 2 important features for household lighting. The first is that it can be significantly softened with the help of light-forming devices, see below. The second is that the “tails” of red and blue do not go into the IR (infrared) and UV (ultraviolet) regions, but decrease to black towards the boundaries of the visible spectrum. Therefore, if details of a certain color are poorly visible in island lighting, increasing the overall brightness will only harm your eyesight. In this case, it is necessary to use local lighting with incandescent lamps or housekeepers/LED lamps of a different color temperature; their spectrum islands will be located differently.
The most harmful spectrum for vision is the line spectrum, pos. 4. In it, firstly, very narrow zones of primary colors do not overlap. Secondly, to create sufficient overall brightness, you have to “raise” the peaks of the lines, especially blue, above the maximum permissible. The light doesn't seem to be very bright, but it hurts the eyes. Everything in general seems to be visible well, but the details are lost somewhere and you can’t see it even if your eyes burst.
This kind of light is called extremely hard. It is provided by cheap LED lamps and individual models housekeeper with 1-layer phosphor. There is no way to soften it with light shapers, because... in the gaps between the lines nothing is illuminated at all. With prolonged use of such light, it is possible to develop not only myopia/farsightedness, but also various color vision disorders (the eye processor overexerts itself to no avail, trying to see the invisible), and even retinal detachment.
Electrical fittings
Gross and most often leading to undesirable consequences violation of safety rules in self-production chandelier – hanging them by an electrical cable: its end is passed into the light bulb socket, tied with a knot, and so everything hangs on weight. A chandelier, even the lightest one, must be suspended on a separate rod, rigid or flexible.
Everyone knows the rigid suspension of a chandelier: it is a tube into which the cable is pulled. Traditional flexible suspension - chain; The cable in this case passes through the links. Nowadays there are also special cables for chandeliers on sale; in addition to 3 wires under a common sheath, they also have a durable rope for suspension. It needs to be taken out and attached in 2 places: at the top to the hook and at the bottom to the frame of the chandelier, otherwise the rope may crawl out over time and the chandelier will hang on the wires. When hanging on a separate cord, the cable must be wrapped around it with several turns (and not vice versa!) and the ends of the “snake” secured with tape or, loosely, with soft thread.
Emergency situations with chandeliers most often occur at the point where the wires enter the light bulb socket, so the cartridges also need to be secured to the frame separately. The most convenient for this purpose is the E17 socket for a minion lamp (candle lamp) with a screw clamp for the fastening lamella (shown by the arrow in item 1 of the figure). If the frame is made of tubes, the lamellas are obtained by flattening their ends. Slats made of steel strips 1-1.5 mm thick and 10 mm wide can be attached to a wooden frame with small self-tapping screws.
Cartridges E17 with end clamp (shank), pos. 2, are less convenient for the home handyman, because... The clamp is secured with a pair of nuts, for which you need to cut a thread on the tube. If there is enough space in the chandelier, in this case it is better to use the E27 socket (regular, “plump”) with a side clamp, pos. 4. The clamps can be carefully bent to obtain the desired orientation of the lamps. And finally, in chandeliers with a single bulb, it may be more convenient to use an E17 or E10 (super minion) socket with mounting eyes, pos. 5, but the places where the wires are connected to this should be carefully insulated.
Note: Conventional bakelite cartridges E27 can also be fixed rigidly; for this purpose, there is a special thread in the inlet fittings of their covers. But the same thread must be on the tube to which the cartridge is attached, and there are no hand taps for it on sale.
About installation and connection
A chandelier with a total power of up to 60 W can be powered from the network using a cable with a conductor cross-section of 0.35 square meters. mm; up to 120 W – 0.5 sq. mm; up to 300 W – 0.75 sq. mm. Use a 3-core, double insulated cable. The “ground” wire (yellow with a longitudinal green stripe) is connected to the neutral wire of the network, and the remaining 2 are connected to the phase wires coming from the switches of the chandelier sections.
Note: It is unacceptable to look for a phase using a control light and flicking switches! You need to use a phase indicator!
Connecting the wires to the terminal blocks of the lamp sockets and generally wiring the chandelier is done below step by step in the following order:
- Using a phase indicator, they make sure that there is no voltage on the wires and no one can accidentally flip the switch. To do this, their levers can be temporarily sealed with tape.
- From the ceiling ends of the cable, a makeshift cable with conductors of a cross-section no smaller than the standard one is laid to the floor.
- They strip the ends of the standard wires of the chandelier and connect its common input to the temporary structure. Don't forget to insulate the connections!
- Disassemble the cartridge.
- Insert the end of the cable into the cartridge cover through the standard hole.
- Place a lock washer on it to prevent accidental removal from the cartridge. As a last resort, tie the cable in a knot.
- Seal the bare ends of the wires into the terminals. Before termination, stranded wires are twisted and, preferably, tinned so that the strands that come out do not cause a short circuit (short circuit),
- Insert the terminal block into the cover, placing it with the recesses on the corresponding protrusions in it.
- Check if there is a small loop of cable under the cover and if it is pulled out.
- Holding the terminal block so that it does not come off, screw the cartridge body onto the cover.
- Upon completion of installation of the sections, screw in the lamps and check by turning on the corresponding lamps. switch, whether they burn smoothly.
- The switches are again blocked from accidental activation and the temporary shed is removed.
- , connect its input to the ceiling ends.
- Check: it lights up evenly, does not blink - installation is complete, you can use it.
Lighting fixtures
The light fittings of a chandelier (light-shaping system), firstly, direct the light in the appropriate manner for a given type of room. Secondly, it softens it by reducing the surface brightness of the illuminator. And for light sources with an island spectrum, another favorable circumstance appears.
In school and even general university courses in optics, in order not to confuse students too much, it is believed that when light is scattered, reflected and refracted, its frequency remains unchanged; this makes it possible to clearly deduce their basic laws. In fact, there are no absolutely linear media, and a certain fraction of light quanta in these processes is re-emitted, due to which it changes its frequency and, consequently, color. That is, the “tails” of the spectral islands receive a small brightness “feed”, which facilitates the work of the eye processor; this amounts to additional softening of the light.
Workflows
The lighting fixtures of household lamps mainly use diffuse reflection and scattering of light. Mirror reflection is of little use, because does not itself reduce surface brightness or soften light. Refraction in transparent media is widely used: crystal pendants not only provide a pleasant play of light, but also significantly soften it without significant loss of luminous flux. And finally, in some cases, for example. In lampshades made of threads, a noticeable amount of diffraction takes place in the formation of the light flux.
Note: In general, you need to be more careful with diffraction and shadows. The light in the room on the left in the figure can cause nervous breakdown in an adult, and the prickly rays from the lamp on the right there will not benefit vision in any way. Here the circumstance occurs that at the peaks of the diffraction pattern the light intensity can be much higher than on the primary emitting surface.
Forming elements and systems
Softening light and forming its required directional pattern (DP), see below, using refraction in transparent media and/or specular/total internal reflection requires a large number of such optical acts: in each of them, light loss is small, but the degree of light conversion is also small flow, because Transparent media are transparent because their nonlinearity manifests itself to an insignificant degree. Traditionally, this requires many refractive elements with high optical properties; therefore, expensive or available occasionally. Nowadays plastics come to the rescue of amateur craftsmen: an original chandelier based on refraction and reflections can be made entirely from waste material, see below. The appearance of such chandeliers is “airy”; service life – 1-3 years.
If you don’t have crystal pendants at your disposal, you will have to use scattering and diffuse reflection. Light loss will be greater, but in this case it is possible to make do with available materials: it is enough to obtain only 1-3% of nonlinear optical acts in the entire lighting system. An ordinary lux meter with a set of light filters does not capture such a number of “left” quanta, but it is enough for the illumination of the gaps between the islands of the spectrum to rise above the “bottom” of the accommodation range and for the eye to work without overwork.
Light formers based on diffuse optical processes are based on 3 elements: a lampshade, a lampshade and a diffuse reflector. Lamp, pos. 1 in Fig. - cap made of frosted glass or a material similar in optical properties to it. Light can come out of it only after undergoing scattering. For the further formation of the luminous flux, the optical properties of the room have no or very little significance.
Lampshade, pos. 2, part of the primary light is released outside without conversion; not necessarily down. Softening of the primary light spot is achieved by illuminating it with diffused light reflected from the walls and ceiling, therefore the optical properties of the room in this case are significant. They become decisive for the diffuse reflector, pos. 3, however, this lighting system, by changing the degree of transparency of the reflector(s), their size, configuration and location, allows the formation of different patterns.
Chandelier lighting systems are built, as a rule, by combining elementary shapers. For example, at pos. 4 – a well-known chandelier made of stepped concentric lampshades, complemented by a small almost flat shade. At first glance, the light loss in it should be large, but remember: to illuminate a school gym with an area of approx. 400 sq. m and with a ceiling height of under 6 m, there were enough uneconomical incandescent lamps for a total power of 800-1200 W.
Among the new lighting systems, chandeliers-shades stand out, pos. 3. They are named so because they are both lighting and architectural ceiling lamps, see photo. The essence of this type of optics is that in the trap chamber the primary quanta experience multiple reflections and the light comes out greatly softened.
Materials for lighting systems
About purchased chandelier elements made of glass or special plastics, you can note that:
- The glass you need to choose is mirrored, colorless or pure white.
- For any light sources, except incandescent lamps, it is better to take optical parts that are not frosted from the surface, but in the mass, the so-called. milky, desired degree of transparency.
- Acrylic computer disks It is undesirable to use them in lighting systems: the translucent metal layer in them only absorbs light to no avail, and the almost completely transparent and colorless optical acrylic does not significantly transform the light flux.
Good homemade chandeliers are made from PET food bottles. The refractive index and transparency of PET (polyethylene terephthalate) are quite high, which makes it possible to achieve significant light softening with little light loss. PET bottles are available in various color shades and are translucent, thanks to which a chandelier can be built on the basis of both refraction and transformation, as well as diffuse processes.
In addition to cheapness and availability significant advantage PET is easy to process at home and, in skillful hands, has good decorative qualities. For example, how to make flowers from bottles, see the master class at the link: //www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TXXoiTLhVA
Floral decor will not only decorate the chandelier, but also, thanks to an increase in the number of refractive surfaces, will significantly improve its lighting technology. Other options for optically useful and beautiful decor from plastic bottles, but we will leave them for the article about lampshades.
Other plastics for chandeliers with economy lamps are also suitable as reflectors. For them you need to take the material as white as possible and slightly rough or with a satin gloss. Translucent details from household plastics not very good, because... The filler most often used is chalk or talc with coloring additives. The light loss in these will be large, and the softening of the light will only be due to a drop in surface brightness. It is preferable to use propylene, because PVC quickly turns yellow and becomes brittle when exposed to light.
The second one is very good and available material for the optical system of the chandelier - paper. If the lamp is LED, then a chandelier made of paper with it will last for several years: the paper turns yellow and loses light transmission from heat and exposure to UV, which LED lamps provide almost or none at all.
The light transmission of the paper components of the chandelier is selected by choosing a material of appropriate density, from 20 to 220 g/sq. m. The reflective properties of modern writing paper are almost impeccable: they are simply not produced with a whiteness coefficient below 0.8-0.85. By the way, some cunning manufacturers operate with whiteness coefficients of 1.05 and even 1.15. By what measurement technique they arrive at super-unit values of a value that, in principle, cannot be more than 1, who knows. But from the point of view of physics, this is a funny absurdity: I put such a leaf in front of the mirror, between them - solar battery, once you shine a flashlight, here you have a perpetual motion machine of the second kind. Or a fertile topic of discussion on technomystic forums. What's wrong with that? If KB>1, then the leaf of light and, accordingly, its energy emits more than it receives.
Note: The bulb of a 60 W incandescent lamp can heat up to more than 100 degrees Celsius. Therefore, for chandeliers with shades, lampshades and reflectors made of plastic, fabric, textiles and threads, you need to use incandescent lamps of no more than 40 W, and halogen lamps - up to 15-20 W.
Video: master class on making a chandelier from rope or thread
Chandelier in the room
The main types of DN for lighting domestic premises are shown in Fig. The cardioid is formed by a lampshade; this is light for small bedrooms, children's rooms, and hallways. The gap at the top is formed by the shadow of the base. A children's chandelier should be equipped with a spherical shade that diffuses light strongly, but without excessive light loss. Particularly soft and, highly desirable, shadow-free lighting in the nursery is necessary so as not to harm the not yet strong vision. Therefore, it is best to make the shade of a children's chandelier from paper, and avoid refractive materials for it.
A figure-of-eight pattern is obtained using several diffuse reflectors and a well-whitened ceiling, for example. plasterboard. Such light is necessary in a fairly large living room with free space in the center, an office and other rooms where areas are illuminated by local light sources.
A fan pattern is produced by a simple lampshade, while a petal pattern is the same, directed with the aperture (bell) upward. Petal lamps are typical for sconces, which are not entirely in theme here, but chandeliers with fan lamps are suitable for a small living room with a dining table in the center or for the kitchen. Especially for the latter: light promotes the deposition of vapors of organic substances and their bituminization in the liquid phase, so there is no need to particularly illuminate the ceiling here; it would be better to let the potential soot go into the hood.
Note: the most uniform illumination of the floor area with minimum consumption electricity for lighting is provided by the so-called. cosecant-square DN. However, it is achieved with the help of very complex lighting devices; the walls and ceiling need to be illuminated separately. Mainly used for lighting large production premises, open areas, sports facilities, etc.
Chandelier lamps
Not all manufacturers of household lighting lamps provide their spectral characteristics on their websites and in specifications, so sellers most often do not know them. As for economy lamps, it’s easier for an ignorant buyer: the spectrum is unknown - We take the color temperature to 4300 K. In the worst case, we get a continuous limited spectrum. It won’t let you see a color postcard or an illustration in a book in all its glory, but it won’t harm your eyesight. Visually, this light is almost white with a slight yellowish tint. The standard electrical power of such lamps is 1.8-3.4 W per 1 sq. m illuminated area depending on the configuration and overall tone of the room design.
Note: phytolamps for shelves with flowers, greenhouses/greenhouses and aquariums cannot be used for general lighting. Their spectrum is sharply linear; it is useful for plants for photosynthesis, but not for human vision.
LED lamps are selected, firstly, for a color temperature of 2800-3300 K, yellowish. Whites, as a rule, have a line spectrum, which is immediately noticeable: their light hurts the eyes even in well-lit natural conditions. trading floor. Based on visible design features, you should choose globe lamps with a matte bulb and a deep shank, pos. 1 in Fig. If you like the “corn” lamp, then you need to be guided by the following signs of poses. 2:
- The LED assembly must be covered with a translucent bulb; this first of all guarantees the durability of the lamp. "Naked corn", with luminous structures underneath protective film, sensitive to pollution and external influences in general.
- The number of individual emitting structures should be at least 15-20.
- "Head of cabbage", i.e. the shell-holder of the radiating structures must be transparent. In combination with prev. conditionally, this will give a greater number of reflections inside the bulb, greater uniformity of the primary light and better possibilities for forming a luminous flux.
In order not to “fall” into the line spectrum, you should also avoid imitations of globes and “corn” in the form of light bulbs with a transparent bulb sitting directly on the base, and a small amount radiating structures, pos. 3. Illumination from them in small room and visually it will be uneven, and the spectrum is most often lined. Also, LED directional lamps, pos. 4. They are intended for auxiliary/service lighting and are harmful to the eyes if used for a long time.
Lighting is the most important component of the interior. The coziness and level of comfort of our home depends on lighting. The play of light and shadow allows you to play up the winning moments of the interior and divert attention from the unsuccessful moments. And also - lamps, floor lamps, chandeliers and lamps create the atmosphere that we call “home”. They will help you make your home “your own”, personal and individual. unique lamps and the best way is to make a lampshade with your own hands. Homemade lampshades and lampshades are the thing that will make your home stand out from others.
A few words about safety
When manufacturing lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers in industrial conditions, the minimum distance from the “body” of the lamp to the materials is first calculated. This distance depends on the power and thermal radiation of the lamp and on the type (flammability) of the material from which the lampshade/shade is made. At home, it is unlikely that anyone will bother with such calculations. And in order not to create a dangerous situation, you should adhere to certain rules.
In general, after making a lampshade and installing it, in the first few days pay attention to whether the lampshade is heating up. Heating is any increase in temperature above ambient. If the lampshade feels “warm”, change the bulb to a less powerful one. Check again. Do this until the homemade lampshade gets warm.
Where to get the frame
If you want to redo old lamp, floor lamp, sconces whose old lampshade has become unusable, you can simply use the existing base, stripping old material. Before starting work, take a good look at the frame; if there is rust or damaged coating somewhere, maybe it’s worth stripping everything off and painting it again? At the same time, the color can be changed. If there are no old frames, you can buy an inexpensive lamp (in a store or at a flea market) and do the same operations with it. By the way, good lampshades can be made from waste baskets. There are wire ones and there are plastic ones. The main thing is to find the right shape and size. Then make a hole in the bottom for the cartridge. Then it’s a matter of decoration/plating, but here there are a lot of options.
If this method is not available, you can make a lampshade without a frame (there are some) or make the frame yourself. The material for making a frame for a lampshade with your own hands is: wire, wood (wooden or bamboo sticks, specially cut elements), plastic bottles.
How to make a frame for a homemade lampshade from wire
The wire for the lamp frame needs aluminum or steel. Aluminum is easy to work with, but it wrinkles easily. This is not very important when the lampshade is already in use, but this fact must be taken into account during work: the shape can be ruined. On the other hand, such plasticity allows you to easily and simply make changes to the shape during work. So it's a good option. Aluminum wire can be “mined” from electrical cables. You will have to remove the protective shell and you can use it.
Steel wire is more elastic, so it retains its shape well. You can look for it on the construction market. It's more difficult to work with. It is advisable to have strong male hands nearby.
In addition to the wire, you will need powerful wire cutters and pliers for the job. The lampshade frame usually consists of two rings and posts connecting them. The shape of the future lampshade depends on the size of the rings and the shape of the stands. Questions may arise regarding the number of racks and methods of their fastening. The number of posts depends on the size of the rings and how “round” you want the lampshade to be. The more stands, the smoother the fabric will lie. So it's up to you to choose, but optimal distance between the posts in the bottom circle - about 5-6 cm.
Techniques for creating a wire lampshade frame
How you attach the stack to the lampshade rings depends on the thickness and type of wire, as well as the tools you have. The simplest one is to make a small hook at the end, then clamp it tightly. To prevent the ring from sliding left and right, first sand the wire at the attachment point with coarse sandpaper. This is an option for thick aluminum wire. If the wire is steel, with a diameter of 1.2-2 mm or more, the best way is. Thinner wire can be bent and wrapped around a ring or also made into a hook.
If you make hooks, wrap wire, appearance It turns out far from being as perfect as factory frames. But this imperfection will be covered by the lampshade itself. If you still care about it, find a ribbon of a suitable color (usually matched to the color of the lampshade) and carefully wrap the resulting frame. It will get much better. The tape can be coated with PVA glue and, wet, tightly, turn by turn, wrapped around the frame.
Wire mesh
If you can find a mesh of thin wire, you can quickly make an almost perfect cylindrical lampshade for a floor lamp, table lamp, night light, lampshade for installing a candle, etc. All you need to do is cut a piece of mesh of the required length and width, roll it into a ring and secure the wires by wrapping them around the posts.
To prevent the mesh from straightening out, when cutting a piece, cut so that there are long free ends on both sides. We will use them to fasten the cylindrical lampshade. And the imperfection of the upper and lower rings can be masked with a ribbon of the desired color.
From a five liter plastic bottle
An interesting shaped lampshade can be made from a large plastic bottle. There are bottles for 5-6 liters and even 10. These are what you can use. Cut off the top or bottom of the container, depending on what you like best. In the cut off part we make a ring for the cartridge. If the top is cut off, a neck can be used for some cartridges. For those with a larger diameter, it will have to be cut off.
Then we cut out the excess plastic and form the rims and pillars of the lampshade. To avoid mistakes, you can first draw all the lines with a marker. It will be easier to cut. Everything is elementary. Then we just decorate. And yes, it is necessary to cut out the plastic, otherwise warm air there will be nowhere to go.
Making lampshades on a frame
There are enough options for how to make a lampshade cover:
From tapes
The simplest and quick way transform an old lampshade for a floor lamp or table lamp - use ribbons. You need a frame or lampshade in the form of a cylinder. It can be “naked” or covered with fabric. If you use a “bare” frame, light will shine through the cracks, which will create interesting lighting effects, but the lighting will be uneven. It is uncomfortable to read in such light - this is an interior solution. If you need even lighting, first cover the frame with fabric. It can be the same color as the ribbons, a couple of shades darker or lighter, or it can be contrasting. It all depends on your desire. And remember that the darker the fabric, the less light the lampshade transmits.
We take a ribbon 1-2.5 cm wide. We fix it on the wrong side of the lampshade using PVA glue, additionally securing it with a pin. If you took a wire frame without fabric, attach it to the upper or lower rim (you can sew it on by hand, you can use glue). Then we begin to wrap the entire frame, from top to bottom, placing the turns of tape close to each other, but without overlapping.
Having completed the circle, turn the tape 90°. We fix it in this position (with a needle and thread or PVA glue, glue from a gun, temporarily fixing it with a pin, pressing it with a clothespin). Then we pass the tape under the first tape, pull it out, lay it on top of the second, then pull it down again, pull it up through one tape. So, gradually, we create an interlacing, filling the entire lampshade.
Alternatively, you can pass two vertical ribbons at a time. But then you need to make sure that each next row moves one crossbar. Then you get a different type of weave. This type of lampshade is ideal for floor lamps, since the light will be directed downwards and the dispersion through the walls will be small.
In this version, the ribbons can be the same, they can be the same color but of different textures, they can differ by a couple of tones or be contrasting. The tapes can be passed in a circle in a continuous stream, or at some distance. If you find a wide tape and apply it with an overlap, then you won’t need horizontal ones at all. And if you use a braided or twisted cord (in the lower photo on the right), we will get a completely different-looking lampshade. So this lampshade finishing technique alone gives you a lot of options.
Let's briefly present the ideas. There are many options for how you can design standard frames for lampshades in a non-standard way. The first method has already been announced: you can knit or crochet a cover for a lampshade. Several options in the photo.
Not everyone knows how to knit. It is easier to work with beads, especially if you glue them. You can decorate old fabric using beads, sequins, beads different shapes and sizes. You can make this “new-old” lampshade with your own hands in a couple of hours. Select decorations that match the color, coat the fabric with PVA glue, and stick on the decorations. To complete the look, you can use beads to assemble pendants that are attached to the lower rim, but this is already painstaking work. The effect is interesting though.
You can sew a new lampshade from fabric. But it doesn’t have to be an updated copy of the old one. You should use your imagination! If a lamp or floor lamp is in the girls' room, a new cover for the lampshade can be made in the form of a skirt. You choose the style of the skirt yourself. They look interesting when folded. With and without ruffles.
You can use an old geographical map in the boy's room. They are on thick paper. If the paper is not thick enough, you first need to glue the card onto the cardboard, and then glue the lampshade from such a blank.
Original lampshades are obtained if the finished frame is woven with threads or ropes. Ropes can be natural. In this case they are gray, brown and beige. You can find thin synthetic colored cords. They will make products that are more “cheerful” in color. The situation is even simpler with knitting threads. They are thin, thick, textured, with smoothly changing colors. In general, there are a lot of options.
We take the frame and braid it according to a certain pattern. You can start with the racks. Braid each stand with a braid (the length of the threads should be 3 times the height of the stand). When this work is completed, we begin to stretch the threads/ropes between the posts. They will need to be passed through the braids, so with threads it is more convenient to do this with a needle, but ropes can be inserted this way.
The second option is to first entangle the entire frame horizontally, and then braid the racks. The braid won't work here, you just need to secure the turns to the stand using inclined stitches with a certain slope. This option is somewhat simpler in execution, but the “braids” look more decorative.
Homemade lampshades without frame
Many materials are rigid enough to hold their shape on their own, but at the same time they are flexible enough to make something interesting out of them. There are a lot of such homemade lampshades. And almost all of them are worth your attention. We will present here only part, the other part will go in the section with photos (see below).
From knitted lace doilies
Many people have crocheted napkins and they lie in “stashes”, because it’s a pity to throw them away and they don’t know how to use them. There are very interesting idea- make a lampshade out of them for a suspended chandelier. In addition to napkins, you will need a large one balloon or an inflatable ball, glue for heavy wallpaper (vinyl, silk-screen printing, etc.), brush.
Soak the glue according to the instructions and wait until it swells. We inflate a balloon or take a ball and hang it up. When the glue is ready, lay out a napkin on some clean surface, coat it with glue, and place it on the ball.
It must be laid out in such a way that there will be a hole in the center for the cartridge. We glue the napkins one by one. They need to be laid out so that the edges overlap slightly. When all the napkins are laid out, coat them with glue again and leave until dry. When the glue has dried, deflate the ball or ball (the ball can be pierced, if you don’t mind) and take it out through the hole. That's all, the lace lampshade is ready.
In some cases, problems arise with how to hang the finished lampshade on the socket. The problem can be solved simply - take a transparent plastic bottle, cut off its neck, if necessary, expand the hole to the required size (so that it fits tightly onto the cartridge), then cut the plastic so that you get a ring 5-7 cm wide. Coat this ring with PVA glue , and glue it to the lampshade from the inside of the ball.
Round lampshades made of threads
Almost the same technology can be used to produce round and semicircular stylish lampshades. Choose threads of a suitable color. Their composition is absolutely unimportant - what matters is color, thickness and texture. They can be shaggy, smooth, twisted, thinner and thicker. The appearance depends on this. It is most convenient to work with cotton threads of medium thickness. They absorb glue well and then, after drying, keep their shape perfectly.
You will also need a ball or ball. This will be the base of the lampshade, which gives the shape. You can choose the dimensions of the base as desired. The threads will need to be glued together; for this you will need PVA glue. It is poured into a container and diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio.
You can use other glue. It is important that it becomes transparent after drying. This is WB-29 from TYTAN Professional and D2 glue for carpentry. If you use any of these types of glue, read the instructions.
On the ball or sphere we will draw a circle, which will be slightly smaller in size than the lamp socket. On the opposite side, draw a larger circle - this will be the lower edge of the lampshade. Now everything is ready, we can start.
We coat the threads with glue and wind them around the ball in a chaotic manner. It’s more convenient to do this if the glue is poured into a container - you can put the whole skein in there and just pull the thread slowly. With glue in a tube, everything is not so comfortable: you have to coat sections up to a meter long, wrap it around, and coat it again. It takes much longer. This is if you do not use PVA. But the products turn out to be more rigid and do not sag or change shape over time, as can happen with PVA thread lampshades.
When winding threads around the ball, carefully go around the drawn circles. If you accidentally climbed into the “forbidden territory”, simply move the threads, forming a smooth (more or less smooth) edge. When the threads run out or you decide that the density is enough, the process can be stopped. We tuck the edge of the thread between the others. All. Next, coat the ball with wound threads again with glue (PVA can be poured over) and leave to dry (at least 2 days). To prevent the ball from rolling, we find a bowl or pan and use it as a stand.
The last stage is to deflate the ball or sphere. If the ball has a nipple, press it with a thin wire, releasing the air. We take out the deflated ball. That's all, you can thread the lamp inside and test the lampshade.
The technology is the same, but the appearance is very different...
Using the technology described above, you can make not only round lampshades. Rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal. Choose a base that is easy to remove, wind threads soaked in glue, braid, even sticks, newspaper tubes, etc. After drying, remove the base and voila, you have made a lampshade with your own hands. A couple of examples in the photo below.
You can also use chopsticks... Just wrap the ball with cling film and use transparent carpentry glue rather than PVA glue
This is a paste-like polymer clay in a tube, which was applied to a milk carton, then dried and the bag was removed...
Creative homemade shades for lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers
It’s simply amazing what people don’t make beautiful and unusual things out of. A lampshade made from a cup, grater, bottle, beer or glass jar, metal parts and beer can rings... It seems everything can be used...
Lampshade made from an old sieve... stylish
Candlesticks turn into lamps... without lampshades
You can't tell in real life, but these lampshades are made from hooks used to open metal drink cans and canned goods... if you paint them, it will be even more interesting
Don't know what to do with grandma's crystal? Make lampshades out of it...
A ceiling chandelier is not only a source of light in a room, but also a worthy decoration. Handmade products are especially valued. They emphasize the taste preferences of the residents of the house or apartment, as well as their individuality. Of course, this work is quite complex and painstaking, but it is interesting and entertaining.
This article provides several detailed instructions for making original chandeliers with your own hands. Each of them is simple and understandable, even a child can repeat it at home.
For the manufacture of ceiling lamps they use various materials: paper, wooden skewers, glass bottles and jars, tree branches, cardboard, straw, etc. The choice of base depends on the desires of the household, as well as on the interior of a particular room.
Original chandelier made of plastic spoons, photo
Plastic spoons are the simplest and most affordable material for making a ceiling chandelier. They have low cost, a variety of colors and a long service life. To create such a product you will need to spend very little time, effort and finance.
Materials and tools. To create a chandelier you will need:
- plastic spoons;
- glue (for plastic);
- empty eggplant from drinking water(volume – 5 l);
- old unnecessary ceiling chandelier;
- sharp knife.
detailed instructions
- Prepare a plastic container for further work: remove the label, cut off its bottom, and dry it.
- Plastic spoons are taken out of the packaging. With a sharp knife Carefully cut off the handles, leaving a small protrusion (about 2-3 mm) above the scoop.
- Glue the prepared spoons to the container: apply glue liberally to the protrusion above the scoop and press it to the plastic bottle (with the scoop to the material). The procedure is repeated until the entire perimeter of the bottle is covered with plastic spoons.
Advice! To create a semblance of a lampshade, the spoons are placed in a checkerboard pattern, slightly overlapping each other.
- Remove the cartridge from the old chandelier, place it in a glued bottle, and fix it on a frame base.
- A decorative bowl is made from plastic spoons: scoops are glued along the perimeter of the neck of the eggplant.
- The chandelier is installed, connected, and checked for functionality.
Advice. The spoons can be painted in any desired color, so the chandelier will look even more unusual and beautiful!
DIY thread ceiling chandelier
Threads are another material that is used to make ceiling chandeliers. Products made from them turn out to be very stylish and sophisticated (most often they are mounted in living rooms or bedrooms).
Materials and tools. During the work you will need:
- threads (jute, linen, nylon or cord are suitable for a chandelier);
- glue (furniture PVA);
- scissors;
- glue brush;
- ball of the required diameter;
- electric light bulb (housekeeper or LED);
- electrical wire;
- socket with a skirt under the lampshade.
Instructions for the master
- To create a chandelier you will need to take a ball of the required diameter.
- A mark is placed on the ball with a pencil or pen in the place where the socket with the light bulb will be located.
- The edge of the thread is attached to the ball and wound, creating the desired pattern as it is wound.
- The threads are periodically coated with PVA glue (it cannot be saved).
- When the ball is completely wrapped, the threads are generously coated with glue again.
- The finished product is hung for quick drying.
- The ball is deflated when the material is completely dry. It is carefully removed through the hole so as not to damage the made lampshade.
- A socket is inserted into a ball of thread, a light bulb is screwed in, the chandelier is connected to electricity, and its functionality is checked.
Beautiful chandelier for the kitchen made from glass bottles
This lighting fixture is ideal for the kitchen or dining room. It will harmoniously combine with the interior of these premises, giving it a “zest”.
All the necessary materials can be found in the basement, kitchen or garage. To work you will need:
- several light glass wine bottles (can be replaced with beautiful jars);
- cartridge;
- bulb;
- electrical wire.
detailed instructions
- The labels are removed from the bottles.
- Carefully cut off the bottom and sand the edges so as not to cut your hands.
- They pull through the necks electrical cable, attach the sockets and screw in the light bulbs.
- The finished chandelier is connected to the network.
- Check for functionality.
Fabric ceiling chandelier
Fabric chandeliers complement the interior of the room, giving it sophistication, comfort and individuality. They are made in a short period of time without much effort.
For their work, craftsmen use scraps of fabric of the same color, as well as material of completely different shades and textures. Finished ceiling lighting made of fabric are mounted in the kitchen, hallway or bedroom.
Materials for work:
- bending wire;
- hoop different sizes(they will serve as a frame);
- scraps of fabric (suitable color and texture);
- glue;
- scissors.
Manufacturing technology
To make such a chandelier you will need to spend very little effort and a minimum of finance, since almost all the materials are in the arsenal of householders.
- They make a frame base from hoops or hoops (they are repainted in the desired color if they do not match the chosen color scheme): they are fastened together with wire.
- The fabric is cut into shreds or strips of the desired size and shape.
- They are attached to the frame using glue ( glue mixture coat the fabric so that it is better attached to the frame).
- The finished lampshade is dried on fresh air(until the glue hardens completely).
- Artificial flowers, beads, rhinestones, items made of felt or polymer clay are used as decorative elements.
- Insert and fix the socket with the light bulb.
- The finished chandelier is connected to the electrical network and checked for functionality.
A chandelier made according to one of the proposed instructions will become a source of pride for the craftsman. It will decorate the room, make it unique, beautiful and cozy.
DIY decorative chandelier: video
DIY chandelier: photo
The originality of the interior design of a kitchen, bedroom or any other room can be determined by the presence of even a small accessory, the main thing is that it is rare or exclusive. This could be a homemade photo frame, a candlestick, a table for your phone, floor vase, lamp or chandelier.
There are plenty of options for creating an unusual lamp for the living room or kitchen; you just need to use your imagination and it doesn’t matter if your imagination doesn’t tell you anything. You can use step by step instructions making any model you like by studying the master class. Materials for making an unusual accessory can be found even without leaving your own home.
So, let's begin…
Homemade chandeliers or lamps may differ in materials or manufacturing principles. You can make a chandelier out of anything and you don’t have to go to the nearest shopping mall for this, such materials can be found at home:
- paper;
- threads;
- disks;
- disposable tableware;
- plastic bottles;
- kebab sticks;
- hangers;
- newspapers and glue;
- cardboard;
- felt hats and much more.
The choice of material may depend entirely on your imagination, or the future model of the lamp may depend on the availability of certain materials.
You can make a lamp, chandelier or lampshade in different ways:
- using origami or papier-mâché techniques;
- using carving or embossing;
- by weaving or threading;
- using crocheting or macrame techniques;
- by connecting identical fragments.
The manufacturing technique will directly depend on the material chosen.
Chandelier made from barbecue sticks
Having wooden sticks on hand (ordinary kebab sticks are ideal), organza ribbons and glue, you can make an original lampshade with your own hands, which will wonderfully decorate the interior of your kitchen if it is decorated in the appropriate style or has some of its details.
Making such a chandelier for the kitchen at home is not difficult:
- Sticks are laid out around the perimeter of the square and connected with glue. The task is quite painstaking, but excellent results await you. The height of the lampshade will depend on your desire, the height of the ceiling in the room or the amount of material.
- The upper part of the lampshade must be sealed with cut sticks (so that their ends do not protrude), laying them crosswise or parallel, leaving a hole in the middle of the required size for the cartridge.
- After the glue has dried, you can begin decorating the product.
- Multi-colored organza ribbons are tied at the protruding ends of the sticks; you should not skimp on their quantity. Several ribbons can be threaded between the sticks in the corners and in the middle of the product.
- You can hang the lampshade on a hook placed on the ceiling of your kitchen using the same tapes, and secure the socket in it through the hole left.
Cardboard chandelier
You can make an unusual chandelier from simple cardboard, which will become an elegant touch in your interior design.
A short master class will show you how to make it:
- Using a printed stencil, two identical parts with slots for connecting them in the center are cut out and joined into a single whole.
- If the color of the cardboard is not as desired, the parts are painted before assembling the chandelier.
- In order for the chandelier to be firmly assembled, its connection points should be duplicated with wire or strong thread through holes made in advance.
- The chandelier is attached to the ceiling on a chain through which the power cord is threaded.
- The chains and cord are painted to match the chandelier.
- The connection point between the cord and the socket is hidden under a plastic glass, also painted to match the chandelier.
Using the same principle, you can make your own chandelier from plastic or hardboard. It will be much stronger, but cutting out parts with scissors will be quite difficult; it is better to use a jigsaw.
You can decorate such a chandelier with any elements. For example, paint the flames of candles with glitter varnish, decorate the bowls of candlesticks with sequins or lace. Pendants, rhinestones or fabric flowers would also be appropriate.
Lamp made from laser discs
If there is a lot left in the house laser discs, which are a pity to throw away, but as information carriers they are no longer suitable, you can use them to make an original chandelier, lampshade or lamp. The design of the accessory will depend only on your imagination, the materials at hand and the number of accumulated disks.
What you need
To make an original lamp from disks, you will need two round wooden boards of different thicknesses, which are slightly larger in diameter than disks, wooden or metal stands. You also need a fluorescent lamp of the required length, a magnetic starter and the disks themselves. Wooden planks can be ordered from a carpenter you know or cut out yourself; racks can be purchased nickel-plated.
How to do
We make a hole in a thick board, install a starter with a switch and connect it to the lamp. Next, disks are strung onto the lamp in required quantity, racks are installed around the disks and the upper part is attached.
Thus, old media in the form of an original lamp made of disks will serve their owners for a long time.
Chandelier “Birch leaves” made from plastic bottles
A chandelier made in the form of leaves will look quite unusual in any interior. A master class will show you how to make it yourself. It is made from ordinary plastic bottles, the color of which you can choose at your discretion.
Step by step instructions:
- The bottles are cut into pieces of any size chosen for future leaves.
- Each piece needs to be shaped like a leaf.
- Using a soldering iron with a thick tip and a one-sided bevel, it is necessary to melt the sections of each workpiece so that future leaves look more impressive.
- Also, using the edge of the sting, it is necessary to give the workpiece a leaf structure. This should be done extremely carefully, as you can easily melt a hole in the plastic. A leaf with streaked veins and melted sections will look complete. Because plastic bottle It has a cylindrical shape and when heated, the plastic is deformed, as a result the leaves are very impressive.
- A hot needle melts several holes for fastening at the base of each leaf.
- Using thin wire, branches are formed and screwed to a steel wire frame.
If you make a new leaf-shaped chandelier as a shade for a floor lamp or table lamp, it will become a harmonious addition to the chandelier that turns the room into a forest.
New life for an old chandelier
Surely, in many living rooms there are still chandeliers that are a pity to throw away, since they are a memory of some person or event.
In order not to throw things away, old chandelier you can give new life:
- First, it should be washed, degreased, plastered and painted.
- The decor for an old chandelier can be made in the form of decoupage, you can update the sockets by making them in the form of influxes of candles using hot glue, not forgetting to then tint them.
- You can make original pendants at your discretion from existing beads, buttons and other elements.
How to decorate a chandelier with your own hands (video instructions)
The old chandelier is still in a new look for a long time hang in its place and please the eyes of its owners.
A do-it-yourself chandelier will add an original twist to the design of a kitchen, living room, nursery or any other room and will become a bright, unique accent to even the most unremarkable, ordinary interior.
DIY chandeliers for the kitchen (photo)
