Do-it-yourself installation of facade panels. Facade panels: how to install it yourself How to attach a facade panel

Among well-known siding manufacturers, the Deke Extrusion company is distinguished high quality products traditional for German manufacturers. The division operating in Russia consists of 3 factories that successfully produce various facade and roofing materials.

One of the most promising materials that is gaining popularity and is actively developing in production is basement siding or, as it is more often called recently, facade panels.

They have high functional and decorative potential, making it possible to make the appearance of the house completely updated without making significant changes to the design. The growing popularity of the material deserves a detailed discussion of its qualities and installation procedures.

Facade panels

Docke façade panels are an external cladding material, which was created for finishing the plinths or lower levels of buildings. In practice, it turned out that basement siding looks much more attractive if it is used to decorate the entire facade of the house.

Produces a high-quality imitation finish natural stone, capable of radically transforming the appearance of the simplest home. Such qualities prompted the name to be changed basement siding, which for some time now has been called “facade panels”.

The main distinctive quality of facade panels is the imitation of brick or stone masonry, while ordinary siding repeats different versions of wooden walls.

The level of imitation turned out to be very high, since casts from natural fragments of walls made of one or another type of finishing or building stone, brick, etc. are used to make molds.

The company's product range includes several lines of material:

• BERG (rock). The material replicates the masonry of blocks hewn by hand from natural rock. The line has 6 color options, from light gray to dark brown.
• BURG (castle). The basis for the development of this direction was ancient legends telling about knightly castles. The material was created to imitate the appearance of fortress walls, solid and durable. The collection has 10 color options.
• STEIN (under the stone). There are 5 color options for the panels, representing the masonry of the hewn sandstone walls.
• EDEL (noble). The panels have the texture of rock masonry of heterogeneous size, the line is made in 5 color options, repeating the color of noble stones - jasper, rhodonite, quartz, onyx and corundum.
• STERN (star). A set of realistic looking blocks of different sizes, all matched to each other. High accuracy transferring the texture of the stone, there are 6 color options.

Features of panel installation

Polypropylene facade panels Deke have specifications, close to most plastic sheathing samples - vinyl, acrylic, etc.

Accordingly, the conditions installation work, in particular, the mandatory observance of thermal clearances is equally relevant for Deke panels.

The fact is that a solid sheathing sheet, being tightly assembled without gaps, will begin to expand when heated and go in waves. In some cases, destruction of the nail strips is possible - strips along the edge of the panel with oblong holes for fixing to the base using nails or, more often, self-tapping screws.

In order to avoid damage or disruption of the appearance of the skin, it is imperative that temperature gaps - gaps between all contacting elements of the skin - be observed. This condition is especially relevant for elements that require longitudinal joining (for example, starting strip, J-bar, etc.).

For the same reasons, nails and screws cannot be driven in/tightened all the way. About 1 mm is left between the head and the part to allow movement when changing sizes. The holes in the nail strips have an oblong shape.

The self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle so that there is the possibility of slight movement in one direction or another. The only case when this rule is violated is when installing vertical elements(for example, corner strips). For them, a self-tapping screw in the upper hole is installed at the top point so that the part does not fall down. The remaining screws are arranged according to the general pattern.

Accessories

In addition to ordinary panels, additional elements are required to install the sheathing. Components, or, as they are also called, additional elements, without which it will be difficult to sheathe a house (photo below):

• Starting bar. This is a special rail with a groove for installing the bottom row of panels.
• J-bar. Serves to complete the cladding fabric, or for any design of the junction of the fabric to other planes (for example, when decorating window openings, it limits the window frame from the side of the window block).
• Corner profile. An element used to finish external corners. For Deke panels, installation of corner profiles is much easier, since they are mounted on top of the panels on both sides of the corner and cover them. They do not have a typical groove into which the sides of the panels are inserted. To ensure reliable installation, there is a starting corner profile that serves as a reference point for the corner profile.
• Border. Used to decorate the end sections of the canvas, overhangs or other areas. To install it use
• Base bar. Serves for decoration internal corners, fixing curbs, etc.
• Facade window profile. Serves as a support strip when finishing window or door openings.
• Internal corner. Used to decorate the internal corners of the surface.

The list of additional elements for Deke façade panels is much shorter than is the case with conventional types of siding, and the installation technology is simpler and clearer, which is also an advantage of the material.

Tool preparation

To install the panels you will need certain tools:

• Tape measure, metal ruler, folding meter.
• Building level.
• Screwdriver, screwdriver.
• Pliers.
• Hacksaw with fine teeth, grinder.
• Metal scissors.

Installation of a ventilated facade

A ventilated facade is a method of cladding a house, in which between the outer layer - the cladding - and inner layers- the wall, insulation and waterproofing provide an air gap of at least 3 cm.

This sheathing device has an important property - water vapor escaping from the thickness of the wall materials can freely exit the insulation. To put it simply, there is a constant opportunity to dry the wall and insulation.

This option allows you to increase the service life of all materials that make up the thickness of the wall and ensures high-quality performance of the insulation. For facade panels, a ventilated facade is the usual type of installation, although installation without it is possible, directly on wooden walls.

Selecting lathing for panels and its installation

The sheathing for the panels is the supporting structure. Its configuration is usually complicated by the presence of insulation, which must be installed between the slats. Therefore, for work, a material is selected that is most convenient to work with and is sufficiently strong and durable.

The traditional type of lathing is a system of wooden planks. This option is acceptable, but requires straight, dried planks, which should be soaked with an antiseptic immediately after installation to avoid rot, mold, etc.

A more successful option is the construction of a metal sheathing. Metal guides are used for plasterboard sheets. They are straight, the galvanized surface prevents corrosion processes, installation and adjustment of the plane is much easier than when working with wooden blocks.

In some cases, metal and wooden planks, which is sometimes convenient for complex surface configurations.

Installation procedure:

1. Cleaning the wall outside the house, full preparation surfaces- putty, plaster (if necessary), primer, drying the surface.
2. Marking the wall for load-bearing elements- brackets or straight guides.
3. The sheathing for Deke panels has both horizontally and vertically directed strips. Therefore, if you need to install insulation under it, you need to build your own sheathing. It is needed to install supporting strips for panels on top of it.
4. Installation of insulation is carried out between the strips of the primary sheathing. A layer of waterproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation.
5. A load-bearing frame is installed on the primary sheathing strips. Its thickness must be at least 3 cm to ensure the required ventilation gap. Vertical strips are used for mounting corners and sides of panels. Horizontal ones serve as a supporting surface for starting and J-planks, the upper sides of panels, and other elements of the canvas.
6. The pitch of the horizontal strips corresponds to the height of the panel, the pitch of the vertical strips is half its length.

The main task when installing the sheathing is to ensure that the sizes of the panels and the distances between the planks match, as well as to ensure the presence of a flat plane, which makes it possible to obtain the correct geometry of the sheathing sheet.

How the panels are fastened

The panels are attached to the sheathing strips taking into account temperature changes, i.e. not tightly, but with a gap between the screw head and the part of about 1 mm. A correctly installed element can be freely moved left and right within the width of the mounting holes.

The screw head must be at least 10 mm in diameter, its length must be at least 30 mm. You cannot drill holes for self-tapping screws yourself; you must use standard ones. mounting holes and nodes.

DIY installation instructions

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Installation of the starting bar. The lowest point of the canvas is determined, a horizontal line is drawn along the level, all corner starting strips are installed along it, after which the ordinary starting strips are installed.
2. Internal corners, if any, can be formed using a J-bar or a specialized internal corner profile. To do this, pre-install the base strip with a shelf to the corner so that the panels on one side of the corner fit into the groove, and on the other they are attached over the nail strip. When the panels are installed, the inside corner will be inserted into the groove of the base strip and cover the joint of the planes.
3. Facing is carried out in the only possible direction - from left to right and from bottom to top.. the first panel is trimmed to obtain an even side line, inserted into the groove of the starting strip, aligned with the corner and fixed with self-tapping screws. The next panel is inserted into the side grooves of the previous one, into the starting strip from below, and secured from above with self-tapping screws. The entire row is laid in this way. The following rows are mounted in a similar way.
4. Frames of window and door openings are mounted in the same way as corners. A J-bar is used to connect the design of the slopes and the window (door) frame.
5. The canvas is completed by installing a J-bar, forming the top edge of the panels.

Installation of facade panels for exterior finishing At home it is simple and can be done independently. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for carrying out work and constantly remember the need to maintain temperature gaps between parts, and do not tighten the screws all the way.

Fulfilling these requirements will allow you to complete the work with high quality and get a solid and stylish appearance of the house, imitating masonry at relatively low costs.

Useful video

Technology for installing façade panels using the example of Docke products:

Source: expert-dacha.pro

Do-it-yourself installation of facade panels: step-by-step description with photos

The cladding of the building protects the house from numerous external influences. Today, installation of facade panels is increasingly used for new and old buildings - it is beautiful and reliable. We’ll look at whether it’s possible to do the work yourself in this article.

What are facade panels

There is no need to confuse facade panels and siding, although their purpose is the same - cladding the external walls of the house. Facade slabs appeared relatively recently and are actively replacing other methods of protecting buildings from atmospheric and other influences. They are thicker and more durable than siding. Materials for the production of such cover for external walls have also significantly expanded the range. Today, facade slabs are used both for completely covering the house and for basement cladding. Their demand is simple to explain: this type of façade design replaces many natural materials, but is much cheaper.

Types of facade panels

There are numerous types of facade slabs on the market:

An inexpensive cladding option that can be mounted on a lightweight frame or directly on the wall, taking into account the ideal surface. The variety of shapes and colors can please any owner. The disadvantage is the lack of vapor permeability and fragility. Frost resistance is not too high, so it is not worth using such cladding in the Far North. Many types of vinyl planks are flammable, and most release harmful substances when burned.

They are made from concrete and wood fibers using synthetic additives, which are a binding component. Durable, environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable, non-flammable fiber cement cladding of facades has conquered the market in many countries. Imitation of natural materials not only in appearance, but also in terms of quality characteristics. Wood-like material has warmth natural wood, but does not burn and does not rot.

• Wood fiber boards

They are used mainly for the lungs country houses and dachas, since they have significant disadvantages: flammability, susceptibility to rotting. But these are some of the most frost-resistant materials - up to 100 cycles, they do not crack and are environmentally friendly.

• Made of metal with PVC lining

They are made from galvanized steel or vinyl-coated aluminum. Convenient to use and install, especially cassette types. Durable, not susceptible to rotting, well protect the house from noise, dust and moisture. Disadvantage - the material does not breathe, the outer coating is prone to burning, and is quite expensive.

This facade material is highly durable and resistant to all types of fungi and damage. Porcelain stoneware slabs look expensive and stylish. Such facades give the impression of wealth and protect the house from any outside influences. Lack of panel weight. Carrying out cladding alone is quite difficult.

We are used to associating glass facades with large shopping centers or office buildings, but glass is increasingly in demand among those who want to give the walls of their mansion a stylish and sometimes fantastic look. Impact resistant, often used bulletproof glass class A and B. Reinforced glass, triplex glass, glass made from foamed glass granulate are used. The advantages of such walls are their beauty and unusualness. Lack of difficult installation and high cost.

The thermal panel design consists of a thick layer of polyurethane foam or polystyrene coated ceramic tiles to protect the material from external influences. Such protective facades have many advantages: high heat and noise insulation, durability, frost resistance, impact resistance. The simplicity of the tongue-and-groove fastenings makes it easy to install such cladding.

They consist of two layers of metal, between which a plastic layer and a vapor barrier layer are pressed. This is an excellent sound insulator. Withstands any temperature changes. Such slabs can have different surfaces. Not susceptible to corrosion and fungus. Operating temperatures from -180 to +100 degrees.

Pros and cons of installation

Finishing a building with facade slabs has more advantages than disadvantages, and therefore let’s immediately talk about the disadvantage. The fastening of the facade panel is always carried out on a special frame, and therefore the production of such facades requires knowledge and certain experience. In addition, the cost of many materials is quite high. The advantages of wall cladding with these finishing materials are obvious:

• Protecting your home from high and low temperatures;
• Long term of use from 20 years and above. Most materials have a service life of 50 years or more;
• Protects walls from fungus and rot;
• Resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• Most of the slabs are made of non-flammable and environmentally friendly material;
• Resistant to corrosion.

Before you get started, there are a few important tips to consider.

1. Always lay from left to right and from bottom to top.
2. The need to withstand temperature gaps determines the expansion ability of the material. For example, at 1°C the gap will be 15 mm, at 32°C - 10 mm.
3. Fastening can also be done at low temperatures, but then you need to keep the slabs warm for at least a day to reduce brittleness and increase the flexibility of the material.
4. Due to temperature fluctuations, small deformation processes in linear dimensions will occur in the slabs. To prevent deformation changes, use fasteners with a smaller diameter than the holes in the slab.
5. Holes in the wall for fastening must be made at least 10 mm.
6. Never install more than two corners at a time to allow for adjustment.
7. Before starting work, you need to level the walls. Even a metal frame may not be able to save large distortions. If this is difficult to do, then make the sheathing on brackets and fill the space with insulation.

Installation of lightweight facade panels

The first step will be making the sheathing. It can be of several types, but the most important thing is to decide whether you need insulation under the façade elements or not. You need to remember that even if you live in a warm area, insulation not only serves to retain heat, but also protects from heat. It absorbs moisture from evaporation and moves the dew point beyond the walls of the house. Modern insulation materials are sound absorbers and carry part of the protective function of the façade system. This is only the main part of the advantages of organizing a facade with insulation. True, there is a drawback: the material costs from 200 rubles per square meter. On the other hand, if the walls require high-quality straightening, you cannot do without it. It’s better to follow the advice and construct a good ventilated facade on your house, then straightening the walls will not be necessary.

Manufacturing of sheathing

The sheathing can be made of metal and wood. For heavy slabs, e.g. natural stone, glass or porcelain stoneware frame is required from a metal profile.

Let's take a metal grill as a basis. If you live in a warm area, then vertical planks can be dug into the ground, but in areas where the soil freezes, you need to measure at least 40 cm from the ground and begin attaching the planks in increments of 91 cm or slightly smaller size insulation. When fastening slabs without insulation, horizontal strips are mounted to vertical strips without protrusions “flush”, the strapping pitch will be 46 cm.

Setting up a starting profile

Let's start installing the starting profile. It is mounted above the low tide, if there is one. In the case of a ventilated facade, the ebb is installed under the J-profile, into which the bottom layer of insulation is attached. Installation of the starting profile begins along the bottom bar of the frame strictly horizontally. Don't forget to measure the corner panels. Usually their sides are 10 cm, so the starting profile is mounted with a 10-centimeter offset from the corner. If the bottom edge of the slab requires trimming, then the starting profile is not used, and the cladding is screwed or nailed directly to the sheathing.

Installation of the first row

Attach the corner first. Now slide the first panel along the starting profile to the left until it fully joins the corner. Please note that the mounting pins must align correctly. Secure the slab and fill the connecting seam with sealant. Move to the next plate, moving from left to right. If necessary, cut the slabs, being careful not to cut more than one field connection. Cutting of elements is done with a grinder or a saw with rare teeth. Adjust the saw stroke to avoid chipping. Last panel cut to size.

Subsequent rows are attached according to the pattern of the first row. For “brick” facades, it is necessary to move the slab relative to the other in order to obtain a natural brick wall pattern.

Forming internal corners

To install internal corners, you can use a J-profile or cut the slabs according to size and pattern. Take two profiles and install them in the inner corner of the building. The fastening pitch is 15-20 cm.

The last row of panels ends with the fastening of the J-profile and flashing.

Installation of heavy facade panels with your own hands step by step

Installation of heavy facade elements is carried out in a different way. It is impossible to simply attach a fiberboard or porcelain tile to a starting profile without additional fasteners. Therefore, the progress of work is as follows.

• First of all, we construct the sheathing. It is necessary to calculate the number and types of profile strips, brackets and fasteners.

Important! You cannot use a galvanized profile for gypsum boards! The facade is too heavy for this metal. It is necessary to purchase a special reinforced profile.

We install the brackets on which the vertical profile will then be attached. The size of the working part of the bracket is calculated from the thickness of the insulation. After laying the thermal insulation, we install vertical profiles. Mount the main and intermediate profile. The main one should be located at the junction of the plates, and the intermediate one in the middle. Calculation of the pitch is carried out based on the architectural features of the building design and wind load: the size between the profiles is usually 40-60 cm. Horizontal planks have a pitch corresponding to the size of the panel.

• The next step is to install the lower ebb at a distance of 40 cm from the ground and attach the starting profile or clamps. Clamps or metal clamps are intended not only for fastening, but also for creating an expansion joint.
• Next, we begin fastening the first row. The thicker facing material, the more responsible you need to approach your work. Fastening of facade elements made of porcelain stoneware and other weighty structures more than 15 mm thick is carried out using clamps or internal fastenings. The connection of the plates occurs in accordance with the instructions and drawings.

Important! When installing, do not forget to leave 3 mm between the plates for thermal expansion! The ends are protected with a special sealant, which should be included in the kit.

Instructions for fastening cassette facade slabs

Metal or composite cassette slabs for external cladding- a very convenient and profitable material for self-cladding.

Important! Some composite cassettes can deform and fade under intense sun, so be sure to read the instructions before purchasing! The material must comply with GOST.

The installation of cassettes is a whole structure, which includes a metal profile, internal and external corners, platbands, flashings, slopes, and fasteners. Such frames greatly facilitate self-assembly. The work can be done using internal and external fasteners. The visible principle is carried out through special holes with which each cassette is equipped. Usually these are curved steel tiles. The hidden method is typical for cassettes with curved bases. They fit into the slots like a Lego set. For such a system, the installation of an L-shaped profile is required.

Video master class on do-it-yourself installation of facade panels

For a better understanding of the installation work, we present to your attention a film about fixing vinyl panels yourself.

Installation of vinyl panels

There are many ways to decorate the exterior walls of a building, we have shown one of them. You can install façade panels with your own hands, even alone.

Source: fasadanado.ru

Installation of facade panels: do-it-yourself cladding and fastening

The facade is the face of the house. If it is in unsatisfactory condition: old, dilapidated, in need of repair, then it is inconvenient to live in such a house, and it is almost impossible to sell. Materials of varying cost and quality are used for cladding facades.

Natural stone and ceramic granite, these are expensive and high-quality materials that are not accessible to everyone. To install a facade made of natural stone, you need to carefully prepare the base.

“Wet” finishing is a labor-intensive and expensive process, limited in time warm period. Creating a textured plaster pattern involves additional difficulties and costs.

The way out is to decorate the house with facade panels.

Unlike natural stone or metal siding, cladding the facade of a house with panels is an economical way to repair. They come in two types:

Single layer

Made from polyvinyl chloride. Single-layer panels imitate brick or stone masonry, tiles made from expensive varieties of basalt and granite.

Thanks to modern equipment, the drawing looks natural. It is almost impossible to distinguish artificial material from natural material from a distance of several meters.

PVC panels are made with fillers that significantly increase the performance characteristics of the material.

Artificial cladding is very strong and durable. Panels are made from non-flammable material, practically do not lose shape under the influence of sunlight.

PVC wall panels can be mounted either on a clean base or on a frame with insulation.

Multilayer

Another name for thermal panel. They should not be confused with sandwich panels. Sandwiches are used to construct walls and partitions. Thermal panels are used only for cladding load-bearing walls; they cannot be used as a full-fledged building material.

The multilayer panel consists of solid insulation and a protective outer layer. For insulation, extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, foam glass, and basalt mineral wool are used.

The protective and decorative layer must be durable, wear-resistant and beautiful. The coating of thermal panels is made of stone-based plaster, clinker tiles, concrete-polymer facade tiles, concrete-polymer monolithic finishing layer.

How to cover a house with facade panels with your own hands

Facade panels can be mounted in several different ways. The choice depends on several factors:

• Condition of the base. The panels are attached to a well-prepared wall without the use of glue or mounting foam using self-tapping dowels and anchors. If the base is uneven, then the panels are mounted with glue or construction foam. The frame mounting method is also used. It consists of creating from metal profiles or wooden slats a level and solid base for installing single-layer or multi-layer panels.
• On walls covered with insulation sheets, single-layer facade panels are installed only along the frame. This technology is called a ventilated facade. There is a narrow layer of air between the insulation and the cladding. This is a ventilation duct for ventilation internal part suspended facade.

Installation is preceded by material calculation and preparatory work

The calculation is made according to the sketch of the facade. A scan is drawn on the sketch indicating all overall dimensions, number of windows and doors. For an accurate calculation, it is better to contact a sales consultant. In large stores they are taught to quickly complete the calculation.

Preparatory work begins with sanitizing the façade and identifying problem areas. Then the surface is cleaned of remnants of the old coating. Everything that is hung on the facade from the outside is dismantled. Large cracks and chips are expanded and sealed with cement-sand mortar.

If the facade is affected by fungus or mold, then disinfection is carried out. Most effective way for etching - this is impregnation of the surface with soil with copper sulfate.

Copper sulfate is poisonous. It is dangerous for the human body, so work is performed in a respirator and rubber gloves.

Do-it-yourself installation of façade thermal panels

They can be installed in two ways:

An absolutely level base is required. One panel slides over the other and snaps into place with a special lock. This installation method reduces the overall time and complexity of the work.

Before attaching thermal panels in any way, markings are made. Using a laser level or level, the horizon line is determined on the facade. It may or may not coincide with the blind area line. If the lines match, then there will be no problems. Use sandpaper to mark the junction of the panel and the base.

If the house is on a hill and the blind area is not horizontal, then the starting line is drawn parallel to the blind area. The second dimensional line is set at the horizon level, to a height equal to the size of the panel from the bottom point of the facade. Thus, cutting the bottom of the panels of the first row, the top goes strictly horizontally.

The panels are cut with a grinder and a diamond wheel. Goggles are used to protect the eyes. The grinder only cuts through the protective coating. To cut the insulation, use a regular hacksaw for wood.

The starting profile is set at the bottom mark. It is attached to the wall using self-tapping dowels.

Installation starts from the corner of the house. To fix the façade panels, disc dowels with a large flat head are used. For each dowel, a shallow hole is drilled in the insulation to match the diameter of the head. So that after installation the dowel is flush with the insulation and does not interfere with the joint of the panels.

For additional fastening of the panels, self-tapping dowels are used. Holes are drilled for them in the seams between the tiles. After installation, traces of fastening can be easily hidden using putty matched to the color of the wall.

After securing the first panel, the second one is locked to it. In this way the entire façade is covered. The external corners between the panels are closed with additional elements.

If they are not there, then the corner ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. After installation is completed, the joint is sealed with putty. To connect the elements, you do not need to press hard on them. If it doesn’t work, then one of the panels is warped or there is a bump on the wall. Both defects are eliminated, continue installation.

Installing panels with glue is relevant when the base is wavy with deviations of 10-30 mm in horizontal or vertical plane. The glue acts as a leveling material. After finishing the façade, there are no air gaps between the wall and the panels.

Marking and sawing of facade thermal panels is carried out according to the algorithm for the dry method.

The starting profile is fixed along the lower horizontal line. This is the support of the facade system. To improve the connection between the panel and the profile, apply polyurethane foam. The first row of panels is mounted on the foam.

Installation starts from the bottom corner of the house. To install thermal panels, special glue is used, which is purchased along with the cladding elements. If it is not there, then a dry mixture is suitable for installing foam plastic or mineral insulation on a brick, concrete or aerated concrete base.

Glue thin layer Apply to the entire surface of the panel using a notched trowel. For additional fastening, disc dowels are used. When joining panels, you must ensure that the size of the seams between the tiles at the joints does not differ from the neighboring ones.

All joints between the site and the installation site of self-tapping dowels are sealed with putty in the color of the surface.

We must remember that the material from which the wall is made affects the selection of insulation for the thermal panel. It is better to cover porous structures such as foam concrete and silicate blocks with thermal panels based on mineral insulation.

Mineral wool removes moisture well. For brick and concrete walls You can use polystyrene foam cladding.

Installation technology of external wall panels

We will talk about constructing a façade from single-layer polyvinyl chloride cladding elements. The panels are mounted on an uneven base on a frame made of galvanized metal profiles.

Facade wall panels can be installed at almost any temperature. Installation is prohibited only in severe frosts, when the thermometer drops below -15°C. Facade cladding work consists of several stages:

Preparation

Ground preparation work must be completed before installation begins load-bearing frame. Excess elements are removed from the facade, such as external unit for air conditioner. The flashing and lining of the slopes are removed from the windows. If the facade is wooden, then it must be treated with an antiseptic to inhibit the processes of decay and fungal development. If the facade is stone or concrete, then such treatment is not necessary.

Cladding without insulation does not require a vapor barrier membrane. If external lighting is planned, then the wiring is carried out at the preparation stage.

Lathing for mounting panels

The sheathing for the façade panels can be made of wood or a U-shaped profile. The second option is preferable, since the galvanized profile does not corrode or collapse. It does not need to be further protected.

On a flat base, it is possible to mount the profile directly on a bare wall. If the facade is curved, then a frame is mounted under the facade panels.

The frame consists of brackets and supporting profiles. Using brackets, the frame is leveled. The profile is mounted on the pre-marked surface of the facade. Marking is carried out using a laser level and measuring tape

The first horizontal element is installed 50 mm from the ground. The starting strip for the façade panels is attached to it. The installation step of the vertical guides is 500-600 mm, and the horizontal ones depend on the height of the facing element. Horizontal guides are made of J-profile. For fastening, self-tapping dowels are used with a pitch of 300-400 mm.

Facade panel fastenings

Installation of facade panels begins from the bottom corner strictly from left to right and from top to bottom. The first row is installed on the starting bar. The left end, which goes to the corner, is cut exactly at a right angle.

Then it is secured with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the nail holes and the body of the wall. The second panel is connected to the first to the junction of the temperature compensators and secured in a similar way. To increase the strength of the structure, the panels can be glued to the starting strip with polyurethane foam.

The construction of a facade from single-layer and multi-layer panels can be done with your own hands. The work is not particularly difficult if the rules and technologies are followed.

The facade panels will be complemented by a wide range of additional elements that allow you to hide minor flaws of a novice installer.

The appearance of any private home is important point for owners. Considered an excellent solution installation DIY siding.

After all, decorative façade panels easy to installation, are capable of creating. On both sides these façade wall panels covered with a protective compound that is very durable. Fiber cement for many decades.

What do we know about the essence of technology installation ventilated facade? That this is a prefabricated structure with a facing screen and an air gap.

Facade The cornice is an important element of the building. It hangs over the wall as a continuation of the roof or divides the walls along the boundaries of the interfloor ceilings. The main function of the cornice is to throw away rainwater.

Installation fiber cement boards. Fiber cement panels mounted on a special frame (subsystem). . Installation brackets using façade anchors The depth of drilling for the anchor depends on the wall material and weight panels.

Installation composite panels allows the slabs to be positioned both horizontally and. Types of aluminum profiles suitable for installation façade cassettes. For fastening composite panels There are three main types used.

The facade is the face of the house. If it is in unsatisfactory condition: old, dilapidated, in need of repair, then it is inconvenient to live in such a house, and it is almost impossible to sell. Materials of varying cost and quality are used for cladding facades.

Natural stone and ceramic granite are expensive and high-quality materials that are not accessible to everyone. the foundation must be carefully prepared.

“Wet” finishing is a labor-intensive and expensive process, limited in time to the warm period. Creating a textured plaster pattern involves additional difficulties and costs.

The way out is to decorate the house with facade panels.

Unlike natural stone or metal siding, cladding the facade of a house with panels is an economical way to repair. They come in two types:

1. Single layer.
2. Multilayer.

Made from polyvinyl chloride. Single-layer panels imitate brick or stone masonry, tiles made from expensive varieties of basalt and granite.

Thanks to modern equipment, the drawing looks natural. It is almost impossible to distinguish artificial material from natural material from a distance of several meters.

PVC panels are made with fillers that significantly increase the performance characteristics of the material.

Artificial cladding is very strong and durable. The panels are made from non-flammable material and practically do not lose their shape when exposed to sunlight.

PVC wall panels can be mounted either on a clean base or on a frame with insulation.

Multilayer

Another name for thermal panel. They should not be confused with. Sandwiches are used to construct walls and partitions. Thermal panels are used only for cladding load-bearing walls; they cannot be used as a full-fledged building material.

The multilayer panel consists of solid insulation and a protective outer layer. For insulation, extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, foam glass, and basalt mineral wool are used.

The protective and decorative layer must be durable, wear-resistant and beautiful. The coating of thermal panels is made of stone-based plaster, concrete-polymer plaster, concrete-polymer monolithic finishing layer.

How to cover a house with facade panels with your own hands

Facade panels can be mounted in several different ways. The choice depends on several factors:

• Condition of the base. The panels are attached to a well-prepared wall without the use of glue or mounting foam using self-tapping dowels and anchors. If the base is uneven, then the panels are mounted with glue or construction foam. The frame mounting method is also used. It consists of creating a flat and durable base from metal profiles or wooden slats for installing single-layer or multi-layer panels.
• On walls covered with insulation sheets, single-layer facade panels are installed only along the frame. This technology is called a ventilated facade. There is a narrow layer of air between the insulation and the cladding. This is a ventilation duct for ventilating the inside of a suspended facade.

Installation is preceded by material calculation and preparatory work

The calculation is made according to the sketch of the facade. A layout is drawn on the sketch indicating all overall dimensions, the number of windows and doors. For an accurate calculation, it is better to contact a sales consultant. In large stores they are taught to quickly complete the calculation.

Preparatory work begins with sanitizing the façade and identifying problem areas. Then the surface is cleaned of remnants of the old coating. Everything that is hung on the facade from the outside is dismantled. Large cracks and chips are expanded and sealed with cement-sand mortar.

If the facade is affected by fungus or mold, then disinfection is carried out. The most effective method for etching is to saturate the surface with soil containing copper sulfate.

Copper sulfate is poisonous. It is dangerous for the human body, so work is performed in a respirator and rubber gloves.

Do-it-yourself installation of façade thermal panels

They can be installed in two ways:

1. No glue.
2. For glue.

No glue

An absolutely level base is required. One panel slides over the other and snaps into place with a special lock. This installation method reduces the overall time and complexity of the work.

Before attaching thermal panels in any way, markings are made. Using a laser level or level, the horizon line is determined on the facade. It may or may not coincide with the blind area line. If the lines match, then there will be no problems. Use sandpaper to mark the junction of the panel and the base.

If the house is on a hill and the blind area is not horizontal, then the starting line is drawn parallel to the blind area. The second dimensional line is set at the horizon level, to a height equal to the size of the panel from the bottom point of the facade. Thus, cutting the bottom of the panels of the first row, the top goes strictly horizontally.

The panels are cut with a grinder and a diamond wheel. Goggles are used to protect the eyes. The grinder only cuts through the protective coating. To cut the insulation, use a regular hacksaw for wood.

The starting profile is set at the bottom mark. It is attached to the wall using self-tapping dowels.

Installation starts from the corner of the house. To fix the façade panels, disc dowels with a large flat head are used. For each dowel, a shallow hole is drilled in the insulation to match the diameter of the head. So that after installation the dowel is flush with the insulation and does not interfere with the joint of the panels.

For additional fastening of the panels, self-tapping dowels are used. Holes are drilled for them in the seams between the tiles. After installation, the traces of fastening can be easily matched to the color of the wall.

After securing the first panel, the second one is locked to it. In this way the entire façade is covered. The external corners between the panels are closed with additional elements.

If they are not there, then the corner ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. After installation is completed, the joint is sealed with putty. To connect the elements, you do not need to press hard on them. If it doesn’t work, then one of the panels is warped or there is a bump on the wall. Both defects are eliminated, continue installation.

On glue

Installing panels with glue is relevant when the base is wavy with deviations of 10-30 mm in the horizontal or vertical plane. The glue acts as a leveling material. After finishing the façade, there are no air gaps between the wall and the panels.

Marking and sawing of facade thermal panels is carried out according to the algorithm for the dry method.

The starting profile is fixed along the lower horizontal line. This is the support of the facade system. To improve the connection between the panel and the profile, polyurethane foam is applied to the shelf. The first row of panels is mounted on the foam.

Installation starts from the bottom corner of the house. To install thermal panels, special glue is used, which is purchased along with the cladding elements. If it is not there, then a dry mixture is suitable for installing foam plastic or mineral insulation on a brick, concrete or aerated concrete base.

The adhesive is applied in a thin layer to the entire surface of the panel using a notched trowel. For additional fastening, disc dowels are used. When joining panels, you must ensure that the size of the seams between the tiles at the joints does not differ from the neighboring ones.

All joints between the site and the installation site of self-tapping dowels are sealed with putty in the color of the surface.

We must remember that the material from which the wall is made affects the selection of insulation for the thermal panel. It is better to cover porous structures such as foam concrete and silicate blocks with thermal panels based on mineral insulation.

Removes moisture well. For brick and concrete walls, you can use polystyrene foam cladding.

Installation technology of external wall panels

We will talk about constructing a façade from single-layer polyvinyl chloride cladding elements. The panels are mounted on an uneven base on a frame made of galvanized metal profiles.

Mounted at almost any temperature. Installation is prohibited only in severe frosts, when the thermometer drops below -15°C. Facade cladding work consists of several stages:

1. Preparation.
2. Fastening of facade panels.

Preparation

Work on preparing the foundation must be completed before installation of the supporting frame begins. Excess elements, such as external ones, are removed from the facade. The ebb and flow are removed from the windows. If the facade is wooden, then it must be treated with an antiseptic to inhibit the processes of decay and fungal development. If the facade is stone or concrete, then such treatment is not necessary.

It does not provide for cladding without insulation. If it is planned, then the wiring is carried out at the preparation stage.

Lathing for mounting panels

The sheathing for the façade panels can be made of wood or a U-shaped profile. The second option is preferable, since the galvanized profile does not corrode or collapse. It does not need to be further protected.

On a flat base, it is possible to mount the profile directly on a bare wall. If the facade is curved, then a frame is mounted under the facade panels.

Frame and load-bearing profiles. Using brackets, the frame is leveled. The profile is mounted on the pre-marked surface of the facade. Marking is carried out using a laser level and measuring tape

The first horizontal element is installed 50 mm from the ground. The starting strip for the façade panels is attached to it. The installation step of the vertical guides is 500-600 mm, and the horizontal ones depend on the height of the facing element. Horizontal guides are made of J-profile. For fastening, self-tapping dowels are used with a pitch of 300-400 mm.

Facade panel fastenings

Installation of facade panels begins from the bottom corner strictly from left to right and from top to bottom. The first row is installed on the starting bar. The left end, which goes to the corner, is cut exactly at a right angle.

Then it is secured with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the nail holes and the body of the wall. The second panel is connected to the first to the junction of the temperature compensators and secured in a similar way. To increase the strength of the structure, the panels can be glued to the starting strip with polyurethane foam.

The construction of a facade from single-layer and multi-layer panels can be done with your own hands. The work is not particularly difficult if the rules and technologies are followed.

The facade panels will be complemented by a wide range of additional elements that allow you to hide minor flaws of a novice installer.

High-quality finishing of the facade of the house will reduce heat loss, protect the walls from the influence of bad weather conditions, and give the building an aesthetic appearance. Currently, façade panels have gained wide popularity. They are produced different sizes, colors, textures. Beautiful appearance The material allows you to turn even a poor building into a real architectural masterpiece. The artificial materials used in the production of panels have greatly increased their service life, in contrast to analogues made from natural raw materials. An important factor when choosing is the low weight of the slabs, which reduces the pressure on the foundation of the house. There are many types of facade slabs, and each of them has its own instructions for installation. Today we will look at how to properly install facade panels with your own hands.

The main composition of fiber cement panels is cement with mineral fillers and reinforcing fibers. It is the fibers that give flexibility to a durable slab, and fillers with cement increase resistance to external influences.

Installation of the slabs is carried out on a frame fixed to the facade, directly on the wall or supporting frame of the house:

• thin slabs (14 mm) are fixed through through holes to the frame with galvanized screws. The screw caps are painted with a special paint to match the color of the panels. For ventilated facades, slabs can be installed with a gap of 40mm. On frame walls, a gap of at least 15 mm is maintained. A gap of 10 mm is left between the upper and lower panels for filling with sealant;
• Installation of fiber panels with a thickness of 16 mm or more is carried out on the wall or supporting frame of the house. The plates are fixed with clamps, which make horizontal seams invisible.

Manufacturing a frame for a ventilated facade

In order to correctly install facade panels with your own hands for a ventilated facade, you need to build a frame on which the fiberboards will be supported. For this:

1. The frame is made from vertical and horizontal metal profiles. Vertical profiles are attached to horizontal ones. In the future, slabs will be fixed to them.
2. The frame is secured to the wall with brackets through a paronite gasket. When the house settles, paronite will reduce the impact on the frame structure. The vertical brackets are mounted in increments of 1000 mm, and the horizontal spacing is maintained at 600 mm.
3. Insulation is laid between the frame elements, secured to the wall with wide-headed dowels. Foam plastic, mineral wool, and basalt slab are used as insulation. The insulation is pulled on top vapor barrier film.

Preparatory work

Before installing the slabs, additional elements are screwed to the frame using self-tapping screws with a wide head:

1. The basement ebb is fixed 50-100 mm above the blind area of ​​the building. It will reduce the foundation getting wet from rain.
2. All vertical guides are equipped with clamps for fastening the plates. The first row of clamps is located above the ebb.
3. Maintaining a vertical level, install a seam bar to help correctly lay the slabs together.

Installation of fiberboards

The plates are put on the lower clamps, fixing them on top with the same fasteners. Then repeat a similar process. The outer corners of the slab connections are made with the end being trimmed at an angle of 45° or without trimming. The joint is treated with sealant and painted over with paint to match the color of the panel.

Japanese fiber panels

The appearance of Japanese fiber panels brought them immediate popularity. The most common slabs from companies: Nichiha, KMEW, Konoshima. The thickness of Japanese slabs ranges from 14 to 21 mm. All panels are characterized by a standard size of 3.03x0.455 m. The same size of Japanese panels and similarity in fastening gives the advantage of interchangeability during repairs.

Façade finishing with Japanese panels

Japanese fiber panels are fixed to a wooden or metal frame. The method for manufacturing a frame structure and installing slabs is similar to that discussed above. Thanks to the hidden fastening method, the facade cladding can be carried out simultaneously with slabs from different Japanese manufacturers.

Plastic panels

Plastic facing boards can be single-layered or with a filler, for example, sandwich panels. The variety of colors, shapes, and textures allows you to decorate your home to imitate natural materials.

The installation of façade panels begins by preparing the surface of the walls. First of all, the old decoration of the house with all protruding elements is dismantled. Cracks and potholes in the walls are filled with putty, and installation of the sheathing begins:

1. Mark the walls for the sheathing using a plumb line with a plumb line. Marking lines walls are applied strictly horizontally and vertically, maintaining a distance of 500-700 mm from each other. The quality of the cladding will depend on this.
2. Wooden bars or a metal profile are used for lathing. The profile is considered more durable, so it is better to give preference to it. Having attached the U-shaped plates to the wall with dowels according to the markings, screw the profile to them with self-tapping screws. Reinforced sheathing is installed around door and window openings along the perimeter of the wall. All structural elements must be level in the same plane. Spacers will help to level the plane on uneven walls - these are special plates with holes that allow you to mount the profile at the required distance from the wall.
3. The battens are placed in the cells mineral insulation, secured with wide-headed dowels in the wall. A vapor barrier film is stretched over the top and installation of the plastic cladding begins.

Panel finishing begins from the corner of the house from the bottom row. Depending on the type, there are locks on the panels different designs. It is with locks that the panels are connected to each other, fixed to the sheathing with galvanized self-tapping screws. Having installed the bottom row, proceed to install the next one using a similar method. In corners and openings, panels are trimmed to required sizes. Having finished finishing all the walls, additional elements are installed. They hide all the joints of the cladding of the corners of the building, door and window openings.

Metal cladding

The metal cladding for the facade is made of galvanized steel sheets with a polymer protective coating. The panels are highly durable and are produced in different colors and shapes. The second name for metal panels is siding.

The siding must be attached to a metal sheathing. Its production is the same as for plastic panels. The metal profile is secured to the wall with perforated hangers.

Particular attention should be paid to wall insulation. Metal cladding is characterized by the formation of condensation due to temperature changes. Therefore, only a ventilated facade will protect the wall from the formation of fungus and mold.

It is better to fasten the insulation by placing it on hangers before installing the profile. Mineral wool or polystyrene foam is cut through at the attachment points and placed on the suspension. In the same way, a vapor barrier is attached to the top. The profile installed in the hangers will press the entire insulation, leaving a ventilating space between the cladding. If insulation is carried out after attaching the sheathing to the wall, additional strips will have to be sewn onto the frame. They will press the insulating material, creating a place for ventilation under the cladding.

Finishing the house with siding begins from the corner, installing the bottom row. The slabs are screwed to the sheathing with galvanized self-tapping screws and a press washer. Joints at corners, door and window openings are covered with additional elements.

Thermal panels

Thermal panels are the most effective material for home decoration. In addition to their aesthetic appearance, they retain heat thanks to the insulating layer. Mount the panels directly on a flat wall. If the wall surface is uneven, with defects, a lathing is attached to it for laying thermal panels:

1. The frame is made similarly to another type of cladding, only without laying insulation. It is already provided on the thermal panel. The sheathing elements are installed so that the joint of two slabs falls in one axis. One thermal panel must be supported by three supports.
2. At the bottom of the corner posts, level marks are made for the starting profile. The plank is screwed with self-tapping screws, inserting panel clips into it.
3. The first thermal panel is installed from the left corner into the starting profile. After entering the lower clamps, the slab is leveled, securing it to the tenons with clamps. Having fixed the panel with screws, the spikes are lubricated with silicone sealant. Next, the second panel is joined to the tenons. The following slabs are installed from bottom to top along the entire perimeter of the building, treating the joints with sealant. When installing thermal panels, do not allow 4 corners to coincide in one place. Therefore, all rows are shifted between each other by half the slab.
4. Upon completion of the cladding of the entire building, the side elements of window and door openings are installed.

Attention! Read more about facade panels with insulation.

Sandwich panels

Sandwich panels are a durable and warm material for finishing buildings. The three-layer structure consists of an internal insulation covered on both sides with a protective layer.

You will need an assistant for installation. Installation of facade panels is carried out in the following order:

1. Sandwich panels are attached to the frame from the corner of the building. The first to be installed level on the base is the U-profile. The first panel is inserted into it.
2. Having been leveled, the slab is screwed through to the frame using self-tapping screws with rubber seals.
3. Longitudinal seams are treated with sealant, and transverse seams are insulated with mineral wool and polyurethane foam.
4. The next panel is installed on top, connecting with a locking connection. It is also screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
5. Upon completion of the cladding of the entire building, the technological seams are covered with strips. The joints are hidden by installing additional elements.

When installing façade panels with your own hands, in compliance with technological instructions, your home building will take on an elegant look for many years to come.

In contact with

Facade panels are distinguished by the seasonality of installation work: installation can be carried out in any weather, even negative temperatures. This feature is due to the fact that installation is carried out using frame technology and mechanical fastenings. Let's look at the stages of work in more detail.

Installation of sheathing

Depending on the chosen cladding material, the lathing is installed:

1. Wooden frame for light panels (plastic, steel sheets).
2. For heavier facade slabs (for example, made of fiber cement), a frame is constructed from galvanized profiles or profile pipes.

Installation of the frame is carried out in the following sequence:

• Vertical guides are installed. The step between them should be kept at 50–60 cm.
• Then horizontal strips are installed at the fastening points additional elements: external corners, J-profile and other parts.

Advice! Thermal insulation material can be laid between the frame slats to further insulate the façade of the house. It is best to use sheet materials based on polystyrene foam or basalt wool slabs.

Installing the starting bar

After the frame is mounted, they begin to install the starting profile. Its installation makes it easier to install the first row of panels and allows you to accurately maintain the horizontal line. When installing the initial plank, you need to carefully check its evenness using a building level. Also, you need to retreat about 10 cm from the corners of the house to install external corner elements.

Panel installation

An important rule for installing any facade panels is that installation is carried out from left to right. Exist various ways installation of finishing slabs that differ from the material of manufacture

Let's look at the main options:

• PVC structures are attached using a construction stapler or small screws and nails (on a wooden frame).
• The steel panels are attached to the sheathing using metal screws.
• For installation of most heavy structures, metal clamps are used. They are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.

Having completed the installation of facade panels, additional cladding elements are installed:

• external corners;
• installation of a J-profile for edging door and window openings;
• installing a finishing strip to prevent rainwater from getting behind the skin.

All these additional elements add completeness to the cladding and serve to create an aesthetic appearance.

Advice! To install thermal panels, there is usually no need to install a frame. Due to the thick layer of elastic insulation, such panels perfectly hide minor irregularities in the facade. Fastening is done using long self-tapping screws with plastic dowels directly to the outer walls of the house.

Installing panels is an excellent choice for cladding the facade of a house. In addition to their wonderful appearance, such slabs allow you to insulate the house and reliably protect the walls from moisture. This facing material is very popular due to the ease and speed of the installation process, a huge range of textures and a variety of shades.

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Unipan facade panels Chania

Unipan facade panels (Chania) are products of Chinese manufacturers. The original name of the material - Chania - could not be registered, since there is a Greek city of the same name and confusion is possible.

In the current situation, a decision was made to rename the material. This is how it appeared trademark Unipan.

The material is a sandwich panel consisting of three main layers:

• Galvanized metal sheet.
• Polyurethane foam filler.
• Thermal and waterproofing layer.

The production technology involves the process of “hot melting” of components - injection liquid polyurethane foam between two outer layers. After hardening, a firmly interconnected block is obtained, which has a successful set of performance qualities and allows for easy and quick installation of the sheathing sheet.

The metal front layer has a relief corresponding to the texture of the simulated material - stone or brickwork and so on. Smooth panels with photo printing are also available.

The peculiarity of such panels is the joining method, which is absolutely similar to the principles of joining internal wall panels: one longitudinal edge is a ridge, and the opposite is a groove. To connect, you only need to insert the ridge of one panel into the groove of another, which is accessible even to a completely untrained person.

The ease of installation eliminates the possibility of errors, and the tightness of the connection creates a sealed fabric that is resistant to external moisture, rain or melted drops, and wind.

The surface has a relief that replicates the texture of stone or brickwork, wood cladding, etc. In addition, there are several color options, expanding the possibility of choosing and implementing different design ideas.

Installation of metal siding

Everything starts identically: materials are prepared, the future structure is drawn schematically, and installation is carried out. The profiles are installed in accordance with the drawn diagram at right angles to the base of the house in increments of 50 cm. The supporting profiles must be secured with dowels.

Metal siding: installation on an aluminum frame

Remove disturbing elements from the building facade

After installing the vertical profiles, it is necessary to install transverse bulkheads. Here you will need to make tabs on each side of the panel for attaching to the profile. There are ready-made frames, but such structures have a clear drawback - they must be attached directly to the walls of the house. If the wall is made of foam concrete, then such a frame may collapse. It is also not recommended to install the frame on sand-lime brick. Red brick walls are also not suitable for a finished frame. In addition, such structures are more expensive than those installed by yourself.

Installation of vertical posts in a horizontal profile

Aligning the metal frame vertically and horizontally

We install additional vertical posts under the siding (based on the recommended dimensions of 40-60 cm)

The most common fastening of metal profiles to each other

Frame for siding

After the bulkheads have been installed, various types of insulation can be inserted into the resulting rectangles.

Laying insulation boards

Mineral wool can be attached with direct hangers

The insulation layer is covered with a wind-vapor barrier fabric

Once the insulation is installed, the panels can be secured to the frame. Each panel has holes for screws. This allows you to hide the seams and not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the facade.

Additional elements

Metal siding kit

Schematically the installation looks like this.

Stage 1. Drawing up a diagram of the house and the future frame for the panels.

Installation diagram

Stage 2. Cleaning the building of unnecessary decorative elements.

Stage 3. Production of an external frame on the walls of a building or installation of a ready-made one.

Stage 4. Installation of flashing, starting strip and the very first row of panels. A level is used to determine the correct angle.

Low tide installation

We fasten the ebb with self-tapping screws in increments of no more than 40 cm

We install the planks with an overlap

Setting external corners

Fastening the inner corner

Installation of the starting profile

We screw in the screws in the center of the holes, check the tightness of the fastening by slightly moving the bar left and right

Installation of platbands on windows

Fastening the window profile

Stage 5. The following rows are installed followed by fastening to the frame.

We snap the first panel into the starting strip and fasten it to the sheathing with self-tapping screws

We insert the next panel into the locking part of the previous one and repeat the installation

Installation of metal siding

Stage 6. Installation of the finishing strip, soffits and decorative elements.

Installation of the finishing profile

We make holes in the last panel with a punch, snap the panel into the finishing profile

Installation of spotlights

In the future, similar installation elements are saved for each type of panel. This is also a plus of the panels - their installation is similar, which means you can easily learn how to install the facade.

Metal siding is a good option for a summer house and a one-story house. Such panels perfectly replicate the effect of wood. In addition, the products are perfectly processed without unnecessary tools. Easy care - just wash the contaminated part of the house with water.

Metal siding

File for download. Production of metal siding installation works

Instructions

What are facade panels

There is no need to confuse facade panels and siding, although their purpose is the same - cladding the external walls of the house. Facade slabs appeared relatively recently and are actively replacing other methods of protecting buildings from atmospheric and other influences. They are thicker and more durable than siding. Materials for the production of such cover for external walls have also significantly expanded the range. Today, facade slabs are used both for the complete covering of the house and for the basement cladding. Their demand is simple to explain: this type of façade design replaces many natural materials, but is much cheaper.

A house finished with facade slabs is protected and beautiful

Types of facade panels

There are numerous types of facade slabs on the market:

• Polyvinyl chloride

An inexpensive cladding option that can be mounted on a lightweight frame or directly on the wall, taking into account the ideal surface. The variety of shapes and colors can please any owner. The disadvantage is the lack of vapor permeability and fragility. Frost resistance is not too high, so it is not worth using such cladding in the Far North. Many types of vinyl planks are flammable, and most release harmful substances when burned.

• Fiber cement

They are made from concrete and wood fibers using synthetic additives, which are a binding component. Durable, environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable, non-flammable fiber cement cladding of facades has conquered the market in many countries. Imitation of natural materials not only in appearance, but also in terms of quality characteristics. The wood-look material has the warmth of natural wood, but does not burn or rot.

• Wood fiber boards

They are used mainly for light country houses and summer cottages, as they have significant disadvantages: flammability, susceptibility to rotting. But these are some of the most frost-resistant materials - up to 100 cycles, they do not crack and are environmentally friendly.

• Made of metal with PVC lining

They are made from galvanized steel or vinyl-coated aluminum. Easy to use and install, especially cassette types. Durable, not susceptible to rotting, well protect the house from noise, dust and moisture. Disadvantage - the material does not breathe, the outer coating is prone to burning, and is quite expensive.

• From porcelain stoneware

This facade material is highly durable and resistant to all types of fungi and damage. Porcelain stoneware slabs look expensive and stylish. Such facades give the impression of wealth and protect the house from any outside influences. Lack of panel weight. Carrying out cladding alone is quite difficult.

• Glass panels

We are used to associating glass facades with large shopping centers or office buildings, but glass is increasingly in demand among those who want to give the walls of their mansion a stylish and sometimes fantastic look. Impact-resistant, often bulletproof glass of class A and B is used. Reinforced glass, triplex glass, and glass made from glass granulate foam are used. The advantages of such walls are their beauty and unusualness. The disadvantage is complex installation and high cost.

• Thermal panels

The design of the thermal panel is a thick layer of polyurethane foam or polystyrene, covered with ceramic tiles to protect the material from external influences. Such protective facades have many advantages: high heat and noise insulation, durability, frost resistance, impact resistance. The simplicity of the tongue-and-groove fastenings makes it easy to install such cladding.

• Sandwich panels

They consist of two layers of metal, between which a plastic layer and a vapor barrier layer are pressed. This is an excellent sound insulator. Withstands any temperature changes. Such slabs can have different surfaces. Not susceptible to corrosion and fungus. Operating temperatures from -180 to +100 degrees.

Variety of cladding for external walls

Finishing a building with facade slabs has more advantages than disadvantages, and therefore let’s immediately talk about the disadvantage. The fastening of the facade panel is always carried out on a special frame, and therefore the production of such facades requires knowledge and certain experience. In addition, the cost of many materials is quite high. The advantages of wall cladding with these finishing materials are obvious:

• Protecting your home from high and low temperatures;
• Long term of use from 20 years and above. Most materials have a service life of 50 years or more;
• Protects walls from fungus and rot;
• Resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• Most of the slabs are made of non-flammable and environmentally friendly material;
• Resistant to corrosion.

Facade panels. Main advantages of the material

Facade panels are made in the form of small slabs, which, based on the type of structural pattern, can imitate natural wood, stone, brick, etc. This finish looks simply luxurious and, with proper installation, can last for several decades. If we talk about the main advantages of this type of cladding, then it is worth highlighting the following:

• Easy to install. Panel slabs are assembled into one continuous structure using the most common set of tools. The material is lightweight and has locks on the end sides, so installation of façade panels can be carried out using a minimum number of craftsmen.
• Environmental friendliness. The panels do not contain components harmful to human health, which makes them possible to use for the external cladding of buildings and structures of any type.
• Long service life. Facade panels are resistant to temperature changes and seasonal precipitation. Besides this material has a high degree of strength and does not fade when exposed to direct sunlight. Thanks to these features, facade panels last a long time and do not lose their original appearance and protective properties throughout their entire service life.
• Acceptable price. Regardless of the modification and type of structural pattern, modern facade panels have a very reasonable cost. The use of such material allows you to improve the appearance of the facade of any building in a short time and with minimal financial costs.

Basic rules for installing facade panels

Like any other facing material, facade panels have their own rules for installation. If you want the finishing of the building to last for many years and not lose its original appearance, when starting to install the panels, consider the following:

• Before starting work on installing the panels, you must carefully read the manufacturer's instructions.
• In order to eliminate the possibility of deformation of the slabs under the influence of temperature changes, self-tapping screws should be screwed into the perforation areas without excessive force. Ideally, to allow for thermal expansion, the distance between the surface of the slab and the screw head should be 1 millimeter.
• Plates of facing material can only be fastened using stainless steel self-tapping screws.
• If, in accordance with the instructions, the panels must be mounted on a wooden sheathing, then its surface must first be opened with a protective solution that prevents the formation of mold and mildew.
• To create a high-quality and reliable sheathing, it is better to use a galvanized steel profile.
• Depending on the type of façade panels, they are installed from left to right or from bottom to top. When installing horizontally, a vertical sheathing is prepared and, conversely, when installing slabs vertically, a horizontal frame is created.
• During the installation of façade panels, you will have to cut the slabs. To eliminate the possibility of damage to the protective coating on the front part of the material, we do not recommend that you use an angle grinder or other tool operating at high speeds.

If you are not entirely sure that you can install facade panels on your own, then it is better not to risk it and contact us right away. Specialists of the MSK-Roofing company will carry out all stages of building cladding in strict accordance with the technology, thanks to which the facade panels will last for many years and will not lose their neat appearance and integrity.

Selecting lathing for panels and its installation

The sheathing for the panels is the supporting structure. Its configuration is usually complicated by the presence of insulation, which must be installed between the slats. Therefore, for work, a material is selected that is most convenient to work with and is sufficiently strong and durable.

The traditional type of lathing is a system of wooden planks. This option is acceptable, but requires straight, dried planks, which should be soaked with an antiseptic immediately after installation to avoid rot, mold, etc.

A more successful option is the construction of a metal sheathing. Metal guides are used for plasterboard sheets. They are straight, the galvanized surface prevents corrosion processes, installation and adjustment of the plane is much easier than when working with wooden blocks.

In some cases, metal and wooden planks are combined, which is sometimes convenient for complex surface configurations.

Installation procedure:

1. Cleaning the wall outside the house, complete surface preparation- putty, (if necessary), primer, drying the surface.
2. Marking the wall for load-bearing elements- brackets or straight guides.
3. The sheathing for Deke panels has both horizontally and vertically directed strips. Therefore, if you need to install insulation under it, you need to build your own sheathing. It is needed to install supporting strips for panels on top of it.
4. Installation of insulation is carried out between the strips of the primary sheathing. A layer of waterproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation.
5. A load-bearing frame is installed on the primary sheathing strips. Its thickness must be at least 3 cm to ensure the required ventilation gap. Vertical strips are used for mounting corners and sides of panels. Horizontal ones serve as a supporting surface for starting and J-planks, the upper sides of panels, and other elements of the canvas.
6. The pitch of the horizontal strips corresponds to the height of the panel, the pitch of the vertical strips is half its length.

The main task when installing the sheathing is to ensure that the sizes of the panels and the distances between the planks match, as well as to ensure the presence of a flat plane, which makes it possible to obtain the correct geometry of the sheathing sheet.

Decorative panels for clinker tiles

A relatively new material that gives an aesthetic appearance to the facade and insulates the house at the same time. Such panels have two components - a base made of insulation and an outer covering. The coating can be stylized to resemble any material - brick, stone, etc.

Such panels are attached very quickly, due to simple way. For fastening you will need a spatula, construction adhesive, and a prepared frame. The latter is not necessary, since such panels can be mounted directly on the wall. The frame serves to install an additional layer of insulation.

Installation diagram

The panels are attached as follows: a solution of construction adhesive is applied to a notched trowel. Regarding the mortar, each tile manufacturer specifies the formula of proportions required for installation. The glue is applied to the product, which is applied to external wall or frame. Afterwards, the panel comes off after three minutes and is attached to the surface again. This method is necessary in order to increase adhesion strength.

The elements are fixed with glue

The levelness of the installation is checked by level

Between the joints, the panels can be sealed with construction adhesive, and for additional strength, the panels are secured with screws. The only drawback of such panels is their high cost. In return, you not only get beautiful facade, but also a warm home.

Installation of thermal panels

Fixing elements

Seam filling

Most likely, this is the best option not only for improving the appearance of the building facade, but also for insulation. Such panels look the most attractive because they take the form various materials and products made from them. The house can turn into a stone fortress.

In addition, in the event of damage to one of the parts of the facade, there is no need to disassemble the entire structure. All you need to do is select the right size panel, remove the damaged one and install a new one.

The main recommendation is to install it in the warm season, since the glue may not harden properly at low temperatures, and the entire structure will not adhere firmly to the wall. Each manufacturer indicates on the packaging at what air temperatures it is most appropriate to mount the panel.

Video - Installation, insulation with thermal panels

Video - Installation of facade thermal panels (PPU) with clinker tiles

Panels with decorative tiles

Facade thermal panels

Such panels are a novelty in the field of finishing materials. They consist of a base (mostly compressed foam) and an outer decorative coating. The panels perform two functions simultaneously:

• insulation of the house;
• imitation of natural stone.

There are no significant disadvantages, except perhaps the high cost.

Expanded polystyrene facade panel

Corner thermal panels

Installation technology

Finishing the facade with such decorative panels is the simplest and fastest siding option. This became possible thanks to special grooves that allow you to securely fix the joined panels. No seams are visible.

Thermal panels

The panels are installed with construction adhesive applied with a notched trowel. Manufacturers indicate the proportions in which the adhesive solution is prepared on the packaging.

Panel installation

Gluing occurs as follows: the panel is applied to the wall, after three minutes it comes off, and after another two it is glued again. This improves the stability and adhesion of materials.

Installation of thermal panels

Installation of thermal panels

Installation of thermal panels

Installation of thermal panels

Important! If the panel does not stick when re-applied, it means that the adhesive mixture is not suitable or was not applied in sufficient quantity. .

Installation is carried out in rows, moving from bottom to top. This way the bottom row will support the top row. After laying one row, take a half-hour break to allow the glue to dry (it will take a day to dry completely), the optimal ambient temperature is 20-25? C.

Wood siding

Wood siding

Such panels can only be used for finishing one-story buildings due to their impressive weight. Despite the special impregnations with which the products are treated, the first care will be required within a few seasons after installation. If handled properly, this siding will last for decades.

Installation technology

As with metal siding, there are two options:

• install the panels yourself;
• buy a ready-made design.

Self-cladding happens as follows.

Stage 1. First, a frame made of wooden beams is assembled. The first rack is attached perpendicular to the ground, all subsequent ones are installed in the same way in half a meter increments. After this, the transverse racks are installed. Instead of wood, the frame can be built from a metal profile.

Installation of sheathing

Stage 2. The frame (if it is wooden) is treated with stain and antiseptics to protect against insects, precipitation, wind, etc.

Important! Vertical posts cannot be placed directly on the ground - you need to make special linings, otherwise the tree will absorb moisture from the soil and will soon rot. . Stage 3

The space between the posts is filled with mineral wool.

Stage 3. The space between the racks is filled with mineral wool.

Insulation with mineral wool

Stage 4. The panels are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The finished design vaguely reminiscent suspended ceiling. The installation procedure in this case is quite simple.

Stage 1. The outer guides are attached.

Stage 2. Then, in increments equal to the length of the boards, the internal ones are installed.

Stage 3. Siding is inserted between the guides. The first stripe is installed, the second, the third, etc.

Stage 4. After this, the top row is leveled and covered wooden frame for fixation.

Wood siding installation

This installation option has significant disadvantages, including the almost complete lack of thermal and noise insulation.

Important! There is another type of wood panels - long-strip siding. It consists of sheets six meters long, which are fastened with dowels or liquid nails not on the frame, but directly on the wall. A minimum of two people are required for installation.

We install the first facade panel with our own hands

We fasten the facade panel

Often the walls of a building are uneven, so first you need to fix the starting bar at the lowest point of the building. Leave a gap of 10 centimeters at each edge of the wall to install the outer corner. To screw in self-tapping screws, holes are made in the frame at intervals of about 40 centimeters. Carefully ensure that the first plank is horizontal; the correct fastening of all subsequent panels depends on it.

If necessary, the panels of the bottom row can be trimmed with a circular saw. To do this, you can use a circular saw, using a blade with thin teeth, installing it in the opposite direction. When cutting the panel to the required height, adjust the direction of the saw to minimize chipping.

If trimming of the bottom panels is necessary, the starting profile is not used. In this case, the panels are simply secured through the front surface in inconspicuous places, driving at least 5 nails into one panel. Before driving nails through the face, pre-drill holes for the fasteners.

The second row of panels is installed and moved on top of the previous one, allowing for a small gap for the expansion of the material. The same method is used to install all subsequent rows. Try to constantly check the level of the corners - they should always be level with the panels.

When you reach the top of the front, you may need to trim the last row to height. Try to trim the material carefully so as not to damage the protective layer. Otherwise, the performance of the panels and their appearance will deteriorate. To finish internal corners, you can use a J-profile. Before installing the corner, level the panels with vinyl plastic or aluminum tape.

Conclusion

The protected facade of the house lasts several times longer, and the beautiful one is also pleasing to the eye. Facade panels cope well with these tasks, being an aesthetic, practical and inexpensive finishing material. Separately, it is worth noting the ease of installation work.

A high-quality frame and proper fixation of the starting profile are the main part of the matter. When installing the panels themselves, only care and accuracy are important. You must also not forget about the thermal expansion of the material, to compensate for which it is necessary to maintain expansion joints between sections and gaps between the caps of the fixing elements and the finishing surface.

Installation of heavy facade panels with your own hands step by step

Installation of heavy facade elements is carried out in a different way. It is impossible to simply attach a fiberboard or porcelain tile to a starting profile without additional fasteners. Therefore, the progress of work is as follows.

• First of all, we construct the sheathing. It is necessary to calculate the number and types of profile strips, brackets and fasteners.

Important! You cannot use a galvanized profile for gypsum boards! The facade is too heavy for this metal. It is necessary to purchase a special reinforced profile

Wall surface prepared for fastening facing material

We install the brackets on which the vertical profile will then be attached. The size of the working part of the bracket is calculated from the thickness of the insulation. After laying the thermal insulation, we install vertical profiles. Mount the main and intermediate profile. The main one should be located at the junction of the plates, and the intermediate one in the middle. Calculation of the pitch is carried out based on the architectural features of the building design and wind load: the size between the profiles is usually 40-60 cm. Horizontal planks have a pitch corresponding to the size of the panel.

• The next step is to install the lower ebb at a distance of 40 cm from the ground and attach the starting profile or clamps. Clamps or metal clamps are intended not only for fastening, but also for creating an expansion joint.
• Next, we begin fastening the first row. The thicker the facing material, the more responsible it is necessary to approach the work. Fastening of facade elements made of porcelain stoneware and other weighty structures more than 15 mm thick is carried out using clamps or internal fastenings. The plates are connected in accordance with the instructions and drawings. Fastening with clamps

• After installation, all joints are sealed with sealant and thoroughly cleaned. To avoid damage to the surface, the joints are taped with masking tape, which is subsequently removed.
• The design of the top row must be done with the formation of a ventilation gap, which is typical for all ventilated facades. To do this, a U-shaped profile and ebb are installed. The same thing is done below. This will ensure proper air circulation. Top and bottom connection

• The formation of external corners is usually already provided for by the manufacturer. This can be done without seam-to-joint trimming or with trimming. A metal corner may be placed on the corner, which will need to be painted. In any case, the kit includes sealant and paint to match the color of the main cladding.

Important! When installing, do not forget to leave 3 mm between the plates for thermal expansion! The ends are protected with a special sealant, which should be included in the kit.

Installation of corners

If you pay attention to the installation methods, there are no fundamental differences. There are certain nuances that should be taken into account when installing the panels yourself: . The bottom layer is the most important

Level or installed panel- this is the key to correct and successful work. If installed incorrectly, there is a high probability of replacing the entire structure. Installing the first siding panel and properly engaging the profile lock
The frame is an important component. In addition to clinker panels, other products require a frame. It will minimize the load on the walls of the house and distribute it correctly. In addition, thanks to the frame, various insulation materials can be installed in the space between the wall and the tile. Wooden frame for siding The easiest way to insulate
The seams of the panels hide perfectly behind each other when correct installation. Extension (joining) of siding panels along the length
The number of tools is minimal - you need a construction knife (preferably) to cut off excess parts of the panels, a screwdriver, a level, a ruler. In addition, installing the panels will not take much time. If you find it difficult to install the panel yourself, without a specialist, hiring one person is enough. In the future, observing the work, you can easily repeat all the work done for other buildings. Large field for design solutions. Most of the products are stylized as stone, wood and decorative brick. The house will look rich and elegant. Decorating the facade of the house

1. The bottom layer is the most important. An evenly laid or installed panel is the key to correct and successful operation. In case of incorrect installation, there is a high probability of replacing the entire structure. Installation of the first siding panel and correct engagement of the profile lock
2. The frame is an important component. In addition to clinker panels, other products require a frame. It will minimize the load on the walls of the house and distribute it correctly. In addition, thanks to the frame, various insulation materials can be installed in the space between the wall and the tiles. Wooden frame for siding

   The easiest way to insulate

3. The seams of the panels are perfectly hidden behind each other when installed correctly. Extension (joining) of siding panels along the length
4. The number of tools is minimal - you need a construction knife (preferably) to cut off excess parts of the panels, a screwdriver, a level, a ruler. In addition, installing the panels will not take much time.
5. If you find it difficult to install the panel yourself, without a specialist, hiring one person is enough. In the future, observing the work, you can easily repeat all the work done for other buildings.
6. Large field for design solutions. Most of the products are stylized as stone, wood and decorative brick. The house will look rich and elegant. Decorating the facade of the house

This is what a person needs to know if he decides to install the panels on his own. The process does not differ in technical complexity

It is necessary to act carefully and carefully to achieve the desired result.

Wood siding

Perhaps one of the most expensive types of panels, but the most beautiful. The panels are made from pressed sawdust and treated with special solutions for strength and durability. However, if you do not take care of such a façade regularly (every two seasons), it quickly becomes unusable. In addition, this finishing method is only suitable for one-story houses, since the panels are heavy, the frame may not support it.

Wood siding

As with metal siding, wooden panels are attached to a prepared frame. Installation methods are identical:

• the frame is made of wooden blocks. But it is possible to install it from a metal profile to make the structure lighter. The first rack is installed at a right angle to the base of the building, and the rest after half a meter are parallel. Between them, racks are installed across; Diagram of the installation of wooden sheathing for siding
• the wooden frame must be treated with insect and moisture repellents;
• the resulting space between the racks can be filled with insulation. Mineral wool is recommended for insulation, since it will not only retain heat in the house, but will also allow condensation to be removed; Wall cladding with block house

  Technology of façade cladding with wooden siding

• The panels are secured to the frame using clamps or screws.

Wood siding for home decoration

The above panels can be replaced with longer ones. The advantage of such panels is that they are fixed directly to the wall one after another in a row. The length of such products is 6 meters. This is a faster installation method. But in order to carry out work on the facade, at least two people are needed. One person cannot do this job, as the panels may not be installed correctly.

In order to cut off the unnecessary part of the panel, it is recommended to use a grinder. It will most quickly cope with such a product and evenly cut off part of the panel.

The complexity of such products lies in their mass. It is best to call an assistant for installation. So, the process will be optimally fast and correct.

After installation wooden facade covered with a protective layer of paint

Transcript

1 INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLATION OF "HANYI" FACADE PANELS Necessary tools: 1. Screwdriver 2. Tape measure 3. Level 4. Metal scissors 5. Square 6. Hammer drill (punching holes for fasteners) 7. Jigsaw with metal file Surface preparation. Installation of CHANYA panels can be carried out in any weather conditions. The wall surface does not require special preparation. To level the plane, if necessary, you can use a galvanized metal profile 60 x 27 and straight hangers (they are used when installing drywall). The profile is installed at intervals of cm (vertically or horizontally, depending on the method of fastening the panels)

2 Installation. A starting strip is used to attach the first panel. The installation location of the starting bar is determined at the lowest point of the foundation. In this case, the starting bar must be strictly horizontal (with horizontal fastening of the panels). The first panel is installed on the starting bar, covering the starting bar, and attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. Each subsequent panel, when installed, covers the fasteners of the previous panel.

3 Corner elements (external and internal) are used to design corner joints of panels. They are connected to each other by a tongue-and-groove locking element. In addition, corners can be used at the junction of the vertical gable wall sheathing and the lower part of the protruding roof, window, door openings, etc. When connecting panels at corners and joints, it is recommended to leave a temperature gap of 3-5 mm between them.

4 The connecting strip closes the connection of the panels at the end. It is fastened as follows: between the end edges of the panels, a U-shaped aluminum guide is fastened with self-tapping screws, which is the mating part of the connecting element lock, and then the connecting element itself is inserted into it with a little force. The elements are connected to each other along the length by a tongue-and-groove lock. A finishing strip is used to cover the cut and fasten the last panel.

5 Calculation of the area of ​​the material. When calculating the material, you need to add 5% to the total area of ​​the walls for cuts; if the building has a complex architectural configuration - 10%. To find out the number of starting strips, you need to subtract the sum of the door widths from the perimeter of the building. In order to find out the number of external and internal corners, you need to measure the length of the external and internal corners of the building and divide by 0.38 m (this is the length of the corner element) and increase to a whole number. This way you will receive the required number of elements. Calculation of the need for a connecting profile. Find the sum of the heights at the places where the panels join and also divide by 0.38 (this is the length of the joining element) and increase the resulting number to an integer. Cutting. To cut the panels, you can use a fine-toothed metal hacksaw or an electric jigsaw. Since the metal is coated with an aluminum-zinc protective layer, it is damaged when sawing or drilling panels. We recommend treating areas damaged during sawing or drilling with protective agents: enamel according to Storage. CHANYA panels do not require special storage conditions. Fastening material. To attach the panels to the sheathing, it is recommended to use 9.5 mm galvanized self-tapping screws. For installation 100 sq.m. About 1000 panels will be required. Maintenance of CHANYA panels. CHANYA panels are a durable material. Once installed, it requires no further investment. All you need to maintain the beauty of your home is to wash it once a year using a regular garden hose. If the material is heavily soiled, you can use a simple non-abrasive detergent. If all installation and maintenance recommendations are followed, CHANYI panels will delight you for many years.

Features of panel installation

Polypropylene facade panels Deke have technical characteristics close to most plastic sheathing samples - vinyl, acrylic, etc.

Accordingly, the conditions of installation work, in particular the mandatory observance of thermal clearances, are equally relevant for Deke panels.

The fact is that a solid sheathing sheet, being tightly assembled without gaps, will begin to expand when heated and go in waves. In some cases, destruction of the nail strips is possible - strips along the edge of the panel with oblong holes for fixing to the base using nails or, more often, self-tapping screws.

In order to avoid damage or disruption of the appearance of the skin, it is imperative that temperature gaps - gaps between all contacting elements of the skin - be observed. This condition is especially relevant for elements that require longitudinal joining (for example, starting strip, J-bar, etc.).

For the same reasons, nails and screws cannot be driven in/tightened all the way. About 1 mm is left between the head and the part to allow movement when changing sizes. The holes in the nail strips have an oblong shape.

The self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle so that there is the possibility of slight movement in one direction or another. The only case when this rule is violated is the installation of vertical elements (for example, corner strips). For them, a self-tapping screw in the upper hole is installed at the top point so that the part does not fall down. The remaining screws are arranged according to the general pattern.

NOTE!
The size of the temperature gap depends on the installation temperature. For a hot summer day, 2-3 mm is enough, for a cold winter day - at least 6 mm.

Types of facade panels and specifics of their installation

• Fiber panels and Japanese fiber panels

They consist of cement, reinforcing fibers and mineral fillers. They are characterized by a high level of resistance to external influences and good flexibility.

Such panels are attached to an already attached frame (if we're talking about about 14 mm panels), on a wall or supporting frame of a building (16 mm panels and larger). Thin panels are fastened with galvanized screws, thicker ones are secured with clamps.

Fiber panels are installed on a frame, which, in turn, is fixed to the wall with brackets through paronite (it will help minimize the load on the frame structure at the time of settlement). Insulation is placed between the cells of the frame, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.

Additional workflow levels: the base ebb is fixed to the frame (5-10 cm above the blind area);

Clamps for installing slabs are placed on all vertical guides.

A joint strip is made to correctly position the slabs relative to each other.

Fiberboards are put on the clamps located below and secured with fasteners. All joints are treated with sealant and painted to match the color of the panels.

• Installation of plastic panels.

To install them, it is also necessary to remove the previous finishing of the house and remove any unevenness. Then the walls need to be marked with lines clearly vertically and horizontally at a distance of 50-70 cm. The lathing can be wooden or metal, it is reinforced in the area of ​​windows and doors. The grid cells are also filled with insulation and vapor barrier film.

The specificity of the work is that plastic panels are mounted from the corner of the building and from the bottom row, by connecting locks and attaching them to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.

• Installation of metal panels. Facade (siding)

Are different increased level strength and polymer protective coating. Siding requires metal sheathing, which is attached to the walls with perforated hangers.

Insulation is placed in the cells, but it is necessary to provide for such an aspect as the possibility of ventilation of the facade, otherwise the condensation formed under the metal will begin to destroy the wooden surface.

Siding is installed from the bottom corner part.

• Installation of facade panels: thermal panels.

Installation begins from the left corner in the starting profile, the clamps are fixed onto the spikes, to which the next thermal panel is attached.

• Sandwich panels. Installation. Frame house facade

This name is no coincidence, since the panel contains 3 layers, one of which is insulation.

Such panels are not easy to install alone: ​​first, a U-profile is attached, into which the first panel is inserted, and a frame from the corner of the building. Everything is leveled, the slab is attached directly to the frame.

For longitudinal seams you will need a sealant, for transverse seams - mineral wool and polyurethane foam. Subsequent panels are secured from above with locks.

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Polyvinyl chloride siding

Plastic facade panels Nailite (Naylayt)

PVC panels are a cheap and easy-to-install method of finishing a facade, characterized by a wide range of models and, therefore, a lot of possible design solutions. The only drawback is the appearance. From a close distance, even with the naked eye it is noticeable that the house is covered with plastic.

Vinyl siding

Installation technology

PVC panels are installed only horizontally. To work you will need:

• perforator;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• Bulgarian;
• level;
• punch - a tool for making ears on the edges of sheets of material.

Stage 1. First, a visual inspection of the house is carried out, the location for installation of the first row is determined. This row should coincide with the old finish or cover the top of the foundation (if we are talking about a new building).

Stage 2. All necessary components are installed - internal and external corners, trim, first strip, etc. You should start from the corners, leaving a small gap of 6.5 mm between them and the eaves of the building.

Stage 3. Installation of the first row is the most critical stage of finishing the facade, on which the evenness of the entire siding depends. First, the boundary of the first row is determined, after which a horizontal line is drawn on the wall. When installing the first strip, this line will serve as a guide.

Important! There should be a gap of 1.27 cm between the ends of two adjacent panels. Stage 4

The appropriate accessories are installed on the door and windows - trims, flashings, final trims. For greater accuracy, the strips of material are joined at an angle of 45ᵒ.

Stage 4. The appropriate accessories are installed on the door and windows - trims, flashings, final trims. For greater accuracy, the strips of material are joined at an angle of 45ᵒ.

Fastening vertical elements

Stage 5. The remaining panels are installed from bottom to top, focusing on the first row. Each panel is inserted into the profile and nailed (not completely). The interval between panels should be 0.4 cm, and between them and other components - from 0.6 cm to 1.25 cm.

Parts are attached with a gap

The panels are overlapped one on top of the other by ½ of the factory mark, while vertical overlaps should be avoided - they are more noticeable from the facade.

Stage 6. At the top edge, the sheets are installed in the same way as under the windows. Only whole panels are used; trimming is possible only for gables. When installing the last row, a J-shaped profile is used with ø6 mm holes made in 0.5 m increments (to drain water from the roof).

Installation technology of external wall panels

We will talk about constructing a façade from single-layer polyvinyl chloride cladding elements. The panels are mounted on an uneven base on a frame made of galvanized metal profiles.

Facade wall panels can be installed at almost any temperature. Installation is prohibited only in severe frosts, when the thermometer drops below -15°C. Facade cladding work consists of several stages:

1. Preparation.
2. Lathing for mounting panels.
3. Fastening of facade panels.

Preparation

Work on preparing the foundation must be completed before installation of the supporting frame begins. Excess elements, such as an external unit for an air conditioner, are removed from the facade. The flashing and lining of the slopes are removed from the windows. If the facade is wooden, then it must be treated with an antiseptic to inhibit the processes of decay and fungal development. If the facade is stone or concrete, then such treatment is not necessary.

Cladding without insulation does not require a vapor barrier membrane. If external lighting is planned, then the wiring is carried out at the preparation stage.

Lathing for mounting panels

The sheathing for the façade panels can be made of wood or a U-shaped profile. The second option is preferable, since the galvanized profile does not corrode or collapse. It does not need to be further protected.

On a flat base, it is possible to mount the profile directly on a bare wall. If the facade is curved, then a frame is mounted under the facade panels.

The frame consists of brackets and supporting profiles. Using brackets, the frame is leveled. The profile is mounted on the pre-marked surface of the facade. Marking is carried out using a laser level and measuring tape

The first horizontal element is installed 50 mm from the ground. The starting strip for the façade panels is attached to it. The installation step of the vertical guides is 500-600 mm, and the horizontal ones depend on the height of the facing element. Horizontal guides are made of J-profile. For fastening, self-tapping dowels are used with a pitch of 300-400 mm.

Facade panel fastenings

Installation of facade panels begins from the bottom corner strictly from left to right and from top to bottom. The first row is installed on the starting bar. The left end, which goes to the corner, is cut exactly at a right angle. Then it is secured with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the nail holes and the body of the wall. The second panel is connected to the first to the junction of the temperature compensators and secured in a similar way. To increase the strength of the structure, the panels can be glued to the starting strip with polyurethane foam.

The construction of a facade from single-layer and multi-layer panels can be done with your own hands. The work is not particularly difficult if the rules and technologies are followed. The facade panels will be complemented by a wide range of additional elements that allow you to hide minor flaws of a novice installer.

Installation of facade panels video

Now let's look at the process step by step:

• We install a substructure made of metal or wood (depending on the requirements of the facade slab manufacturer). To do this, we mount a guide bar at the very bottom of the entire structure, drill holes in it for self-tapping screws at a distance of 30–40 centimeters. There should be a gap of slightly more than 10 centimeters on each edge of the wall for subsequent installation of the outer corner. It is very important that the guide strip is attached to the wall strictly horizontally. This is the beginning of all installation work, and the slightest unevenness at this stage will make the geometry of the entire facade incorrect.
• After the plank is fixed and secured, it is necessary to install the outer corners on the adjacent walls. A J-profile is installed around doors, arches, and windows. A gap of 0.5–1 centimeter is made between this profile and the panel, which is necessary for further expansion and contraction of the panels when the temperature changes.
• Once the frame is in place, we move on to installing the panels. If the sheets need to be cut for this, then the cut edge should be placed on the left, and the straight edge should be left for further strong adhesion to the next panel. The panel sheet is inserted into the strip and moved to the outer corner. After using a building level you make sure that the sheet is fixed evenly and it fits snugly against the corner, you can fasten it with self-tapping screws.
• From the first sheet, which will serve as a kind of guide for you, continue installing subsequent sheets. In this case, the following should be taken into account: the corners must be at the same level as the facade panels.
• Before installing the panels, the facade is covered with a layer of thermal insulation and a waterproof and windproof membrane. Not everyone does this. We recommend that you always line the house with good thermal insulation material. After all main function facade panels - insulation of the house. For this, it is best to use basalt mineral wool - this is the most reliable and safe material, which is characterized by increased durability and non-flammability. Some consider it possible to reduce the cost of thermal insulation and choose fiberglass or expanded polystyrene, but the fire resistance of these materials is significantly lower. Waterproofing material will protect the insulation from getting wet. Please note that during installation work, insulation without waterproofing cannot be left outdoors for several days. Otherwise, the cotton wool will absorb too much moisture and will not be able to effectively perform its functions. In a situation with the choice of waterproofing, some are also inclined towards purchasing an economical film, but such a choice cannot be justified. Be sure to provide a ventilation gap that will prevent condensation from forming on the inside of the sheets of facade panels.

High-quality facade panels are quite difficult to distinguish from natural materials

At first glance, it may seem that the above sequence of actions is quite simple and does not require any construction skills. However, this work requires care, and the most common mistakes are made at the very beginning of the work - when the plank is installed incorrectly, when one of its edges goes up or down.

The main thing is correct marking and horizontal frame.

Subsequent installation of the sheets will take place quite quickly. However, we advise you not to rush to install the panels and double-check the position of each sheet before fastening it. We recommend reading the article about.

Polyvinyl chloride panels

PVC siding is the simplest and cheapest way to decorate the facade of a building. Such panels are popular for several reasons: ease of installation; low cost; huge options colors. Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting that such panels are made of plastic and any facade will look plastic even from the farthest distance.

This type of panel is installed exclusively horizontally. To work, you will need a construction knife or any other knife. In addition, you will need a hammer drill. You will also need a level to determine the angle of the panels, as well as a hammer for driving nails.

The initial stage of installing PVC panels is a preliminary inspection of the house. It is necessary to determine the location of the first row of panels. In the case of a new building, it is recommended to install the panels from the beginning of the foundation. Also, PVC panels can be installed from the initial row of the old finish.

Start of installation

Next, you should install the initial frame, namely: corners, both external and internal, platbands, first strips for attaching panels. Installation begins from the corners. The gap between them and the cornice should not be more than 6.5 mm.

The most important stage, on which the future fate of the entire facade will depend, is the installation of the first strip of panels

It is important to install the first strip of fasteners as correctly as possible, since the fastening of the panel itself depends on it. If the strip was laid evenly, then the panel will be even.

General provisions

It is necessary to install trims, ebbs and trims on windows and doors. And after the completed stages, the installation of all other rows of the facade begins. The top panel is inserted into the profile and hammered in with a nail, but not completely. There should be an interval of 0.4 cm between panels, and no more than 6 mm between other components. In order to avoid vertical overlaps, it is recommended to install the panels at half the factory mark. This way the joints will not be visible from the front side.

Sequence of installation of facade panels

When installing panels, you must remember that parts of the products will need to be cut off. A construction knife is used for this. A ruler and level are also needed to more accurately measure the angle and draw a straight line on the product. Draw a line on the panel in the place where you need to cut off the piece, and carefully draw it with a knife several times. The advantage of plastic is that it is ideal for such manipulations.

You must be extremely careful, since mechanical damage is very visible on such material.

Such panels are most in demand due to their ease of installation and low cost. In addition, PVC products are installed at various building heights because they are very lightweight. Installation of such panels is simple and does not require much time.

The final step is to install the top row of panels. For the top row, only complete panels are needed. In addition, the last panel is closed with a special profile for drainage.

Video - Installation of basement siding

Their advantages

This:

• aesthetic qualities: thanks to the imitation of various textures and a large palette of colors, they allow you to make your home stylish and beautiful;
• long service life and ease of operation (just wipe the panels with plain water and they already look like new);
• the low weight of facade slabs reduces the load on the foundation;
• good water-repellent properties;
• acceptable price;
• you can add insulation or use panels with insulation.

Facade panels– this is a facing material made of polymer sheets (usually polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam) with perforation with the possibility of fastening with self-tapping screws to literally any surface (from wood to wood).

Facade cladding panel

Installation of lightweight facade panels

The first step will be making the sheathing. It can be of several types, but the most important thing is to decide whether you need insulation under the façade elements or not. You need to remember that even if you live in a warm area, insulation not only serves to retain heat, but also protects from heat. It absorbs moisture from evaporation and moves the dew point beyond the walls of the house. Modern insulation materials are sound absorbers and carry part of the protective function of the façade system. This is only the main part of the advantages of organizing a facade with insulation. True, there is a drawback: the material costs from 200 rubles per square meter. On the other hand, if the walls require high-quality straightening, you cannot do without it. It’s better to follow the advice and construct a good ventilated facade on your house, then straightening the walls will not be necessary.

There are two types of battens

Manufacturing of sheathing

The sheathing can be made of metal and wood. For heavy slabs, for example, made of natural stone, glass or porcelain stoneware, a frame is required from a metal profile.

Let's take a metal grill as a basis. If you live in a warm area, then vertical planks can be dug into the ground, but in areas where the soil freezes, you need to measure at least 40 cm from the ground and begin attaching the planks in increments of 91 cm or slightly less than the size of the insulation. When fastening slabs without insulation, horizontal strips are mounted to vertical strips without protrusions “flush”, the strapping pitch will be 46 cm.

Trim plan

Setting up a starting profile

Let's start installing the starting profile. It is mounted above the low tide, if there is one. In the case of a ventilated facade, the ebb is installed under the J-profile, into which the bottom layer of insulation is attached. Installation of the starting profile begins along the bottom bar of the frame strictly horizontally. Don't forget to measure the corner panels. Usually their sides are 10 cm, so the starting profile is mounted with a 10-centimeter offset from the corner. If the bottom edge of the slab requires trimming, then the starting profile is not used, and the cladding is screwed or nailed directly to the sheathing.

Lathing with starting profile

Installation of the first row

Attach the corner first. Now slide the first panel along the starting profile to the left until it fully joins the corner

Please note that the mounting pins must align correctly. Secure the slab and fill the connecting seam with sealant. Move to the next plate, moving from left to right. If necessary, cut slabs, being careful not to cut more than one mounting connection

Cutting of elements is done with a grinder or a saw with rare teeth. Adjust the saw stroke to avoid chipping. Cut the last panel to size.

Installation of the first row

Subsequent rows are attached according to the pattern of the first row. For “brick” facades, it is necessary to move the slab relative to the other in order to obtain a natural brick wall pattern.

Forming internal corners

To install internal corners, you can use a J-profile or cut the slabs according to size and pattern. Take two profiles and install them in the inner corner of the building. The fastening pitch is 15-20 cm.

The last row of panels ends with the fastening of the J-profile and flashing.

Installation of J-profile for internal corners

One of the most practical ways of finishing a facade is paneling. Their main advantage is ease of installation, which means that anyone can do the finishing work. Facade panels perfectly protect walls from wind and rain, help retain heat in the house, and at the same time have a very attractive aesthetic appearance.

There are now a lot of cladding panels and slabs on sale from the most different materials. Siding is very popular, and the demand for polymer, fiber cement and porcelain tiles is growing. There are even wooden options with enhanced protective properties.

Name	Characteristics
	Manufacturing material – sheet aluminum, galvanized steel. Base thickness 0.5-0.6 mm, panel width 226 mm. Polyester is used as a protective coating. Service life is about 30 years. The panels are fireproof, waterproof, and do not fade in the sun.
	Manufacturing material – polyvinyl chloride. Panel width 200-250 mm, base thickness 1.2 mm. The panels are waterproof, rot-resistant, non-toxic, and do not fade in the sun. Service life is about 30 years. Wide variety of colors and textures, imitation of natural materials.
	Polyurethane foam base and outer layer of clinker tiles. Panel thickness from 30 to 100 mm, low water absorption, high frost resistance, resistance to aggressive substances and rot. It has low thermal conductivity and a service life of up to 50 years.
	The material used is cement with the addition of cellulose fibers and mineral fillers. Panel thickness 8-12 mm, average size 1220x2500 mm. The service life is about 20 years, the panels are resistant to rotting, sudden temperature changes, and have low thermal conductivity.
	Plates with a thickness of 7-30 mm, sizes from 300x300 mm to 600x1200 mm. Durable frost-resistant material, non-flammable, environmentally friendly. Service life more than 50 years, undemanding in maintenance. The only drawback of such slabs is their heavy weight, so when cladding a facade you cannot do without a strong and reliable frame.
	Facade panels made of natural wood with a thickness of 18-45 mm. The wood undergoes special treatment, as a result of which it becomes resistant to moisture, decay, and ultraviolet radiation. In addition, the flammability of the material is reduced. The disadvantages include the high cost of wood and a shorter service life compared to other types of panels.
	The panel consists of two sheets of metal and a thin layer of polyethylene between them. The metal has an additional anti-corrosion coating. The thickness of the panels is from 3 to 6 mm, the service life is up to 20 years. The material does not fade in the sun, does not require maintenance, and is highly resistant to damage and weathering.
	The material used is impact-resistant glass up to 6 mm thick. The panel can be transparent, matte, mirrored, with patterns and grainy texture. The material is durable, weather resistant, and very attractive. Disadvantages: high cost, difficult installation.

Facade siding technology

The most popular finishing material for facades is siding. It is lightweight, conveniently attached thanks to the locking system, and does not require special skills or equipment.

The cladding process consists of four stages: preparing the walls, installing the sheathing, insulating the facade and fastening the panels themselves. For unheated buildings, insulation is not used. The durability of the coating and the appearance of the facade depend on the quality of surface preparation.

All work can be completed independently in 2-4 days, depending on the area of ​​the walls. But first you need to correctly calculate the amount of material so as not to overpay, and in the process of work not to be interrupted by the purchase of missing material.

Prices for different types of siding

We calculate the amount of material

So, for calculations you will need a schematic drawing of the building with all the main parameters - height, width and length of the building, dimensions of openings (windows/doors). After taking measurements, you should determine the total area of ​​the sheathed surfaces: to do this, first calculate the area of ​​each wall separately and sum up the resulting figures. Then the total area of ​​windows and doors is taken away.

For example, you need to line a bathhouse 3x4 m, 2.5 m high, with two windows 0.6x0.9 m and a door 0.7x1.8 m. The area of ​​the side wall is

• 3x2.5= 7.5 m2,
• façade area – 4x2.5= 10 m2.

Total wall area:

• 7.5 + 7.5 + 10 + 10=35 m2.

Now we calculate the total area of ​​windows and doors in the same way:

• 0.6x0.9= 0.54 m2 (window);
• 0.7x1.8= 2.5 m2 (door);
• 0.54x2 + 2.5= 3.58 m2 – total area of ​​openings.

We subtract the second value from the first and get the size of the working area:

• 35 – 3.58 = 31.42 m2.

Now all that remains is to divide the resulting value by the area of ​​one panel. It is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, next to other siding parameters.

Siding - dimensions

For example, let's take vinyl siding Block House: its width is 0.232 m, length 3.66 m, area 0.85 m2. We divide 31.42 by 0.85 and get the number of panels - 37 pieces. Since waste is inevitable during the work process, the material must be taken with a reserve of 7-10%. There are 10 panels in a package, so for cladding you need to buy 4 packages of siding, and the extra three panels will be just such a supply.

The starting profile, which is used to fasten the lower tier of panels, is measured in linear meters, therefore, for calculations it is enough to know the length of the bathhouse perimeter. In our case it is 14 m (3+3+4+4). Since the profile is attached with an overlap, you need to add another 0.5-0.7 m for the length of the joining sections and 30-40 cm for waste when fitting.

Corner profiles are also measured in linear meters, and usually have a length of 3 m. For buildings with complex configurations, two types of profiles are required - for external and internal corners. To calculate the number of elements, the height of the building should be multiplied by the number of corners and divided by three. For example, if a bathhouse with a height of 2.5 has a rectangular shape, then the total length of the corner profiles is 10 m. Dividing by the length of one profile, we get 3.3, that is, you will need 3 whole profiles and a piece 30 cm long. This means you need purchase 4 profiles for external corners. Elements for internal corners are calculated separately according to the same principle.

To join the panels, you will need H-shaped and T-shaped connecting profiles.

They are produced in lengths of 3 m and are calculated individually. Since the length of the siding does not exceed 3.8 m, it is not difficult to determine the junction of the panels. Mark these areas on the diagram and calculate how much profile you will need to connect along the entire height of the facade.

The finishing strips are attached horizontally above and below the window openings, so calculating their number is not difficult, as is the number of window and door frames. The dimensions of these elements are necessarily indicated in the price lists and catalogs of the manufacturer, and it will not be difficult to select the necessary components for the panels if you have measurements of the building.

For convenience, you can use an online calculator, this will provide more accurate calculations and save time.

Surface preparation

The wall under the cladding must be strong, without cracks or breaks. Any defects reduce the strength and durability of the skin, and therefore preliminary preparation surface is very important. First, remove the trim from the windows and doors, then remove everything that protrudes beyond the plane of the wall - decorative elements, lighting fixtures.

Carefully inspect the walls, base, corners, sweep the lower part of the building around the entire perimeter with a broom. Sometimes small cracks and chips can be hidden under a layer of dust and dirt on the base. Peeling plaster must be cleaned off with a spatula so that it does not interfere with the tight fit of the sheathing. Large cracks are expanded along the length and sealed with a cement solution, small cracks are simply rubbed with the same solution.

If the walls are wooden, be sure to check the integrity of the logs, especially the lower rows. It is recommended to caulk the dried crowns and treat the wood with an antiseptic. Rotten areas need to be replaced, because the fungus will develop under the sheathing, damaging an increasing area of ​​the wall. If the wood is in good condition, simply priming the entire surface is enough.

Wooden house processing technology | Treating your home with an antiseptic

Lathing. Installation instructions

The lathing for fastening siding panels can be made of metal or wood. In the first case, it is recommended to use galvanized profile SD-60, in the second - dry timber 30x40 mm or 50x60 mm. To fasten the frame elements, you will additionally need U-shaped metal hangers, screws and dowels (if the walls are concrete or brick).

First you need to determine how the panels will be located - horizontally or vertically. The location of the profiles depends on this: they must be perpendicular to the siding panels. That is, with horizontal cladding, we attach the frame profile vertically to the walls, and vice versa. For example, let’s look at horizontal cladding.

Prices for galvanized profiles

galvanized profile

Step 1. Make markings on the walls: step back from the corner 5-7 cm and draw a vertical line along the entire height of the wall. Then retreat 40 cm and again draw a vertical line, and so on until the end of the wall. The extreme line should be no more than 5 cm from the corner. The remaining walls are marked in the same way.

Step 2. Perforated hangers are screwed to the wall along the marked lines, which are also used for plasterboard profiles. Perforated elements must be fastened in a checkerboard pattern with an interval of 40 cm. wooden wall The hangers are screwed with self-tapping screws, and to the concrete/brick wall with dowels, having previously placed a paronite gasket in the space between the hanger and the wall. This will avoid the formation of cold bridges.

Step 3. Now you need to lay the insulation. Mineral wool slabs 50 mm thick are perfect for this. The first layer is placed tightly between the frame posts, the second is attached on top of the profiles. The slabs are fixed to the wall with mushroom dowels. The hanger lugs must be threaded through the insulation by cutting small holes in the slabs. Thermal insulation must be fixed around the entire perimeter of the building.

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

Step 4. A windproof membrane is stretched over the thermal insulation, through which the protruding edges of the hangers are also threaded. The membrane is overlapped and secured at the joints with construction tape.

Step 5. Counter-lattice. Along the bottom of the wall, along the base, and along the top, a horizontal narrow profile is fixed into which the ends of the vertical frame posts will be inserted. Both profiles must be strictly in the same plane. Next, at the corners of the wall, the outer profiles are attached to the hangers and screwed with self-tapping screws. A cord is pulled between the profiles to level the plane of the future frame. After this, screw all the other vertical profiles and install horizontal lintels at the top and bottom of the window opening. At the junctions of the planks, the frame is also strengthened with horizontal jumpers with a vertical pitch of 40 cm.

Step 6. The sheathing posts at the corners need to be connected to each other: to do this, take a piece of the same profile, cut it into pieces 15-25 cm long, bend them in the middle at a right angle, then overlap them to the corner posts of the frame and fix them with self-tapping screws. The distance between the fasteners is 40 cm. In this way, all corners of the sheathing are strengthened.

Installation of wooden sheathing is carried out in almost the same way: the timber is cut to the height of the wall, and markings are made for attaching brackets. Next, the beams are leveled and screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of 40-60 cm. The insulation is inserted between the cells of the sheathing. If you do not plan to use insulation, the timber can be attached not to the brackets, but directly to the wall, leveling the frame using mounting wedges.

Video - Installation of a frame for siding

Facade cladding with siding

When the sheathing is ready, you can begin installing the panels. You need to start by installing starting strips, corner elements and opening framing parts.

Step 1. Determine the lowest point of the wall and use a water level to set the horizon, marking with a pencil in each corner of the building. Next, measure the width of the starting bar and mark this distance from the bottom point of the angle upward. To make marking easier, you can drive a nail into one of the corners. required height and tie it with strong thread. Moving to the next corner, check the horizontal level, drive the nail in again and tighten the thread. As a result, a nail will be driven into each corner, and a thread will be stretched around the perimeter at the required level.

Step 2. Apply the starting strip to the marking with the upper edge and fix it with screws every 35-40 cm. The ends of adjacent strips are attached at a distance of 5 mm from each other, this required condition for high-quality installation.

The starting strip is mounted around the entire perimeter of the sheathed surface. When its installation is completed, you can attach the corner elements.

Step 3. The corner profile must be positioned strictly vertically. Its lower edge is lowered 8 mm below the starting strip, the upper cut is 6 mm below the cornice. Screw it in with self-tapping screws on both sides of the corner, in increments of 40 cm.

Step 4. Next, they begin finishing the openings: they screw starting strips around the perimeter of the windows so that their corners do not touch. Each trim is cut at the edges at an angle of 45 degrees and installed on top of the starting strip. The sections are combined with each other, leaving an even, neat joint without gaps. The doorway is decorated in the same way.

Step 5. Now you can bet cladding panels. Start from the bottom - from the starting bar. The panel is applied to the wall, the bottom edge is inserted into the bar and the horizontal level is checked with a level. If the first panel lies unevenly, the entire subsequent cladding will also be skewed, and it will not be possible to level it during installation. After making sure that the panel is positioned correctly, screw the screws into the holes and install the next element. The ends of the facing strips are inserted into the corner profiles or between the corner and H-shaped profiles.

The fastening step with self-tapping screws is 40 cm; after installation, each part must be moved from side to side. If the panel moves with difficulty or does not move at all, the fasteners should be loosened. A connection that is too tight contributes to deformation of the canvas and the formation of a wavy surface.

Step 6. Before laying the top row, you need to secure the finishing strip.

It is located at the very top of the wall horizontally and is fixed, like the other elements, with self-tapping screws. Next, measure the remaining space between the panel and the strip, and cut the siding for the top row according to the measurements. The cut edge is brought under the fold of the plank after fastening to the penultimate row.

The final sheet of siding is cut to size and fastened without screws - from below with a lock behind the previous panel, from above it is inserted into the finishing strip

Gable trim

Very often, when facing a facade, the pediment is also sheathed with siding. This way the building looks more neat and aesthetically pleasing. The sheathing process is quite simple, although you have to work at heights. Before starting work, install reliable, durable scaffolding to protect yourself from falling.

Step 1. Using a level, markings are made for a triangular frame. Next, two guide strips are attached to the sides along the roof overhang, and a vertical profile is screwed to the sides of the doorway in the attic.

Step 2. The opening is reinforced with horizontal lintels at the top and bottom. The profile is cut to the height of the pediment and attached to the base using hangers in increments of 40 cm. In the lower part, the profiles are reinforced with a horizontal strip. All elements of the sheathing must be located in the same plane.

Step 3. The ebb for the pediment is installed on the press washers, the metal sheets are overlapped by 10-15 cm. Then the starting strips in the doorway and the strips above the ebb are screwed.

Step 4. Siding panels are cut so that the cut is transverse on one side and at an angle on the other. Since the pediment has a triangular shape, the ends of the panels must correspond to it. The panels are attached in the manner described above, trying to accurately align the seams on both sides of the doorway. Be sure to leave gaps between the elements at the edges for expansion.

Step 5. After securing the siding panels, the roof overhangs on both sides and the eaves are hemmed. Here the panels are located not lengthwise, but across, so the cladding looks more attractive.

The cuts on the edges are covered with wind strips, which are placed on one side of the roofing covering and secured with self-tapping screws with press washers.

Video - Pediment cladding (part 1)

Video - Pediment cladding (part 2)

At this point, the façade cladding is considered complete. Correctly performed installation will ensure durability and aesthetic appearance of such cladding, as well as additional protection walls of the house. Caring for siding is not difficult: dust and any dirt can be easily washed off with plain water. Other types of facade panels are installed in a similar way: the surface is prepared, a metal or wooden frame is installed, and the sheathing is attached. Of course, each material has its own characteristics, so you should first study all the nuances of the cladding in order to avoid annoying mistakes in work.

Video - Facade cladding with panels