Throughout human history, weapons have been improved. New species appeared, which served as a springboard for the next. From stones on sticks to nuclear weapons. In the 20th century there was great demand for submachine guns. The Second World War showed their reliability and necessity for use by the army. As many people know, before the Second World War, the Soviet Union used PPSh, which could no longer correspond to that time. Therefore, the task was set to create a new submachine gun. Combined everything good qualities its predecessor and was better than its PPS machine gun, specifications which are described below.
Story
Before moving on to the description of the weapon, it is necessary to consider its creation. The history of the PPS assault rifle begins in 1942, when the predecessor PPSh no longer met the new framework. However, the government believed that new machine should have had the same features as the outdated model. Therefore, the requirements put forward by him required the creation of a submachine gun that would be more technologically advanced and simpler in design and operation, but would have the same advantages as the PPSh. Designer Sudaev, after whom the legendary weapon was named, put forward his project, which turned out to be the best.
Requirements
There were requests for the new submachine gun, which the PPS machine gun fully complied with. The requirements can be summarized as follows:
- The new weapon should be cheaper than the PPSh. At the same time possess best characteristics and ease of production.
- It should have been lighter. The large PPSh was inconvenient for reconnaissance officers, landing troops, tank crews and signalmen, who could not use it for various reasons. Interestingly, the PPSh was 400 g lighter than its German counterpart MP-40, but even this was not an argument.
- The store was supposed to be a simple box store. And the dimensions are small. The rate of fire, oddly enough, is better slow. This increases the accuracy of the fire. All this would make the new submachine gun much more convenient than the PPSh.
Indicators
How good was the weapon of victory, the PPS machine gun? TsAMO (Central Archive of the Ministry of Defense) has information that proves that the new weapons had the most stringent requirements. D.N. Bolitin gives the following indicators. So, the weight of the new submachine gun should have been from 2.5 to 3 kg. The rate of fire that the model could have was limited to an interval of 450-500 rounds per minute. This was a value that made it possible to increase the accuracy of shots. In addition to everything described above, there were also strict requirements for technology. The most important thing is the maximum simplification of production, which was carried out through automatic processing and simplification of the design as a whole. The new submachine gun was to be made of 2-3 mm steel, which was processed mechanically, which would increase speed.
The restrictions also applied to the equipment itself: it was only possible to use pressing equipment, limited in power. The use of complex stamps, which could slow down production, was not allowed. And for one sample only 3-3.5 hours of work on the machine were given. All this was directly aimed at maximizing the number of submachine guns in the limited time required in military operations.
Start of production
The new PPS machine gun passed comparative tests back in July 1942. Already in 1943 it began mass production. It was necessary to carry out tests and improvements as quickly as possible, since the army needed a new submachine gun to replace the old PPSh, which was much inferior to similar enemy models. The first model from which mass production began was PPS-42. It was introduced into parts of the Leningrad Front, where the machine gun performed well and was liked by the soldiers. However, it was necessary to make some changes to the design, so in 1943 the PPS-43 was created, which had a caliber of 7.62 mm. Sudaev's improved submachine gun was even more functional and demonstrative. Thus, the new machine gun has become the leading one among all models of this type of small arms.
PPS-42
The model, which did not meet all the requirements and had flaws, needed to be corrected. A new PPS machine gun was put into serial production. The device had the best performance. Therefore, PPS-42 is quite difficult to find, few of them were produced. They are quite rare in private collections and museums. But how do the models differ? With the replaced device, the connection point of the shoulder rest with the rods is lower, the upper arm of the rest is much longer than the lower one. This is one of the main external differences, anyone can notice it, even those unfamiliar with the features of the machines of that time. However, in the photographs the part that is distinctive feature, is most often hidden by the shooter's shoulder, so it is not so well known.
Also, PPS-42 and 43 have another interesting difference: when the butt is folded, the shoulder rest in the earlier model is located in front of the sight block, while in the other it covers it. How can this be explained? In PPS-43, the length of the barrel and butt was reduced, and therefore the overall length became much shorter (from 907 to 820 mm). This also made it possible to greatly reduce the weight of the model. In addition, there are some technological changes that have increased the combat qualities of the PPS-43. However, they cannot be seen with the naked eye.
Saving
During the fighting, the country falls into crisis. Not enough money for production expensive models. Therefore, the new machine gun PPP had much more economical design, which used less metal elements, than in PCA. This made it possible to reduce the cost of weapons in general. In addition, the percentage of waste in the production of these two submachine guns also differs greatly in favor of PPP (48%). For PPSh, the same figure was 60-70%. During the production of the new machine gun, both stamping and welding were widely used, and the PPS-43 itself was made of metal almost entirely, excluding only the handle linings, which were made of wood; later plastic was also used.
Description
The PPS, like most submachine guns, fired using the recoil energy of the free bolt. This principle was also used by the PPSh and other models of weapons of this type. As already mentioned, the government has set a goal to increase the accuracy of fire. At that time, this was only possible by reducing the speed, which was used at the PPP, perhaps in the simplest way and at the same time the most effective. There were two options (if you take a weapon with the blowback principle): either increase the mass of the bolt itself, or use additional components. However, the device was already extremely massive, and the second option greatly complicated the design.
Differences
The MP-40, the German analogue of the PPSh, uses a system of telescopic tubes, which reduce the rate of fire. However, the design is very complicated. In the PPSh-41 the rate of fire reaches 1100 rounds per minute, which greatly increases the spread. Therefore, by the way, the model could not be used in the army. The bolt weight was about 0.6 kg for the PPS. The MP-40 assault rifle had only 600 rounds per minute, and the design did not have a fire translator, which the PPSh-41 had. Therefore, it was not possible to achieve a simple design for this model.
A more technologically advanced solution with a reduced rate of fire was needed. In the PPS-43, for this purpose, the bolt stroke length was increased, which was 142 mm, and in the PPSh it was 83. This made it possible to reduce the rate of fire to 700 rounds per minute. It should be noted that a professional shooter is capable of firing even single shots. This is achieved by briefly pressing the trigger, which, by the way, was also possible on the German MP-40. Reviews of the PPS assault rifle in the army were extremely good.
Design features
Many parts, as well as their purpose, on the PPS-43 and PPSh-41 are quite similar, which is explained by the installation of maintaining combat performance. The Sudaev PPS assault rifle consists of a receiver. The device includes a barrel, bolt and return mechanism. The design also uses a trigger box, which contains the trigger mechanism and safety lock. These two parts are connected by hinges.
Attached to the rear of the receiver is a stock that can be folded. And in front of the trigger is the magazine neck. Steel box has the shape of the letter "P". It is made from a single sheet of steel. From below it is open along its entire length. Its front part forms the barrel casing, which is intended to protect the shooter from burns. Thus, PPS-43 has greater safety than its predecessor. A special device practically eliminates the impact on a person of a device such as a PPS machine (photo can be seen below).
Shot
In the rear part of the receiver, the bolt moves along the guides, which is acted upon by a recoil spring. It is put on the rod and is located offset to the left along the side groove. He, in turn, goes to the bolt cup, where the bottom of the cartridge case is placed. The guide rod acts as a reflector; after the shot, the cartridge case bounces off it and is thrown out the window, which is located on top of the receiver.
Escapement mechanism
The PPS (automatic) has an interesting design. The release mechanism, like most of the parts, is extremely simple. It consists simply of a trigger and a lever, which are connected by an axis. A mechanism is integrated with the trigger box latch. They also have a fuse attached to them. The latch closes both boxes in closed position. The safety device is created in the form of a plate, which is located on the right wall of the trigger box (on its inside).
This position allows you to simultaneously block the trigger mechanism, lock the connecting axis, and lock the bolt. The latter is fixed in the position in which it was when the submachine gun was put on safety. There are two positions here: front and back. In the first, the bolt is secured by the end of the fuse plate, which rests against reverse side into the handle. In the rear position, the bolt handle is secured in the middle part. Thus, a fuse is a device that is controlled by a plate. The machine itself stands on it after moving the handle down and up.
The magazine latch, which is located in front of the trigger guard, is covered with a bracket welded to the neck. It prevents you from accidentally pressing the latch, but at the same time it is intended for convenience. The PPS-43 assault rifle is very functional, its parts often perform several roles, this ensures simplicity of design, and, therefore, speeds up production. It is unlikely that you will be able to create a PPP (automatic machine) with your own hands - this requires special conditions and equipment.
Characteristics
The machine's magazine includes 35 rounds, just like the PPSh. However, the Sudaev PPS assault rifle has a different design for this device. So, it does not have ridges (ribs) and some other parts found on the PPSh magazine. This, by the way, greatly reduces the weight of the entire machine and makes it more technologically advanced. Weight without magazine (260 g without equipment) is about 3 kg. Total weight PPP with cartridges is 3.62 kg. The barrel length is 0.25 m. The bolt weight is about 0.5 kg. Each sample comes complete with 6 magazines, which are carried in bags. Their weight together with the PPS machine gun is 6.82 kg. This is a good indicator.
The real weapon of victory - the PPS-43 assault rifle - has become a legend. PPSh and PPS assault rifles are great weapons. They are credited with a great contribution to the liberation of Leningrad. However, until the end of the Great Patriotic War, PPSh was produced in large quantities, rather than PPP. Historians and experts call this submachine gun the best among all weapons of this type of those times. PPS-43 includes all the technical innovations of that time and at the same time remains easy to use and manufacture.
- 1. Benefits
- 2. Required Tools and materials
- 3. Preparation of parts
- 4. Assembly
- 5. Final work
- 6. Features of use
It is believed that best conditions for keeping bees can only be created in wooden hives, since they are closest to natural environment insect habitat. But some beekeepers are sure that there are alternative options, each of which has its own advantages.
One of these materials is polystyrene foam; it successfully solves some beekeeping problems that arise when bees are kept in wooden structures. At the same time, insects adapt well to such hives, sometimes even faster than to ordinary ones. In order to make a hive from polystyrene foam with your own hands, you do not need a lot of time, special tools and skills, as well as significant financial investments.
Advantages
Expanded polystyrene (PSB-S) is an economical, convenient, environmentally friendly pure material. It has low vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. During operation, foam does not emit toxic substances, is durable, is not food for rodents and is not a breeding ground for bacteria and fungi. Due to its breathability, polystyrene foam allows hives to be well ventilated.
The advantages of this material include the following qualities:
- Unlike wooden structures, polystyrene foam hives do not have voids;
- such bee houses are protected from cold in winter, and from overheating in summer;
- quickly assembled and dismantled, compartments are easy to repair;
- expanded polystyrene does not rot or mold due to its inorganic composition;
- bees fly away less from such hives and swarm less often;
- insect activity increases significantly;
- the material helps maintain an optimal microclimate inside the hive. In this regard, the uterus begins its activity earlier, and the family develops faster;
- in summer the nests are well ventilated;
- hives made of polystyrene foam are lightweight and mobile.
Disadvantages of the material:
- expanded polystyrene repels moisture, and it flows to the bottom of the hive;
- expanded polystyrene is much less durable than wood;
- The slabs have a fixed size, so most often there are a lot of leftovers. In this regard, polystyrene foam hives need to be carefully thought out;
- at the joints, insects can gnaw the material, therefore it is necessary to fit the parts more tightly so that light does not enter the hive;
- Cleaning structures from propolis is quite difficult and is only possible with the help of chemicals. Its further use for economic purposes is excluded, since propolis is removed with pieces of foam;
- The hives are very light; during strong winds they need to be strengthened with bricks.
Required tools and materials
In order to make a beehive from polystyrene foam with your own hands, you will need not only some skills, but also:
- Special glue or liquid nails.
- Expanded polystyrene boards.
- Mesh for ventilation.
- Marker or pencil.
- Sheets of paper for drawings.
- A stationery knife and self-tapping screws 7 and 5 cm long.
- Ruler (at least 100 cm).
- Sandpaper.
- Screwdriver.
- Corners 1.5*1.5. They are glued in if the bees generously lubricate the walls with propolis so that the material does not crumble when removing the frames.
If you want to use consumables As economically as possible, it is better to make the correct drawings. At the slabs standard size 1.2 by 0.6, but you should take it with a small margin, since not everything always works out the first time.
Preparing parts
The walls of the hives are made of material 50 mm thick. This expanded polystyrene has sufficient strength and lightness. Before starting work, we recommend making your own drawings.
Polystyrene foam hives consist of several elements: a cover, a base and a body. We attach drawings with their dimensions below.
The resulting markings are transferred to the material with a small margin and cut out using a stationery knife and ruler. To minimize gaps, extreme precision must be observed, since the penetration of light leads to the bees gnawing holes in these places, forming an additional entrance.
Making a beehive from polystyrene foam. Part 1
Assembly
The cut parts must be made smooth and even, for this purpose sandpaper is used. After that, folds are applied to the walls, with their help frames will be installed.
Polystyrene foam hives are assembled in the following sequence:
- The edges of the workpieces are lubricated with glue.
- The joints of the parts are connected and fixed.
- Remove drips before they harden.
- To improve strength, the parts are additionally connected using self-tapping screws, placing them at a distance of approximately 12 cm. Screwed in to a depth of no more than 5 mm.
- Using a knife, make indentations on the back and front walls of the product, and then glue handles from pieces of foam foam of a suitable size into them.
- The structure should dry out within 24 hours. In dry weather, such hives can be left in the yard, tied with straps and weighted down the top of the polystyrene foam building with bricks.
Making a beehive from polystyrene foam. Part 2
Final works
After 24 hours, the walls of the hive should be ground in. sandpaper using pendulum-like movements, without excessive pressure. If gaps remain as a result, eliminate them with polyurethane foam.
After this, the final work begins:
- strips or corners are fixed to the recesses in the walls;
- Waxed frames are installed inside the body;
- A ventilation mesh is inserted into the bottom. It should be selected according to two parameters: cell size (up to 3.5 mm) and strength. Can use aluminum mesh for car bumper with required size cells;
- a lid is placed; leftover polystyrene foam can be used for it, metallic profile or plywood. In this case, the lid should not outweigh the structure;
- The outer part of the hive should be coated with water-based paint. It is non-toxic, does not destroy the material and will help to significantly extend the life of such a house for bees.
Making a beehive from polystyrene foam. Part 3
Features of use
In hives made from polystyrene foam, film is used instead of the usual canvas. And thermoregulation occurs somewhat differently than in wooden houses, the elements of which absorb moisture.
In summer, the structure is ventilated through an open entrance and holes in the bottom. The need for an upper entrance does not arise if dividing grids are not used, but with the start of honey harvest it will be needed, because it will be difficult for bees to penetrate through the grid with a heavy load. The upper taphole can be made directly at the point stationery knife, it is better to give the hole square shape size 30 by 30 mm.
To save heat in the hive, in the spring the hole in the bottom is retracted, the entrance at this time is slightly open by 2-5 cm. winter time the entrance is covered and the bottom is open. A film is placed over the frames, preventing the penetration of cold air from above and the formation of a draft. Moisture formed from the bees' breathing collects on the walls and film, and then the condensation flows into the entrance and the lower hole. The walls of the structure do not absorb moisture, which is a clear advantage over wooden structures.
Polystyrene foam hives can be easily transported to the right places, but they must be secured with special belts. Bricks can be placed on top of them to prevent them from being toppled over by the wind. For the winter polystyrene foam hives It is better not to insulate or cover with pillows. Wintering should take place outdoors.
It is very difficult to understand all the variety of houses for bees. It is especially difficult for an inexperienced beekeeper: every type of hive, every design, from a log to modern hives, has its pros and cons.
For me on initial stage In beekeeping, this issue also turned out to be one of the primary ones. For myself, I decided to independently make inexpensive and lightweight hives from extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) of the appropriate density.
Advantages of polystyrene foam hives:
- a light weight;
- ease of manufacture;
- maintainability;
- low cost of material;
- you do not need to have special skills and tools for woodworking;
- high thermal insulation.
Bees feel very comfortable in such hives. This is confirmed by excellent spring development, less swarming compared to bee colonies in wooden hives and successful wintering. In Europe, such hives have been produced and actively used for quite a long time.
The microclimate and organization of air exchange in hives made of PPS differ from those that exist in wooden hives. The use of pillows and canvas is not allowed in PPS ulkhs. Instead of canvas, a regular one is used polyethylene film. There should be nothing in the hive that can absorb moisture. Expanded polystyrene itself is non-hygroscopic.
Ventilation all year round, except for the early spring period, is carried out through a mesh bottom and an open lower entrance. An upper entrance is only necessary if a dividing grid is placed between the bodies so that bees loaded with nectar and pollen do not experience difficulties in overcoming it.
In early spring, immediately after the exhibition of hives from the winter hut or after the bees have flown around, if the winter hut was in the wild, the mesh bottom should be closed with a plug. This is necessary for maximum concentration of heat inside the hive, so that it is easier for a bee colony weakened after winter to heat the brood and successfully as soon as possible prepare a shift of wintering bees. When the threat of returning cold passes, the plug in the mesh bottom must be removed.
There is no need to insulate the hive and nest with anything, because polystyrene foam itself is very warm material. It is better to make diaphragms from the same material. PPS hives are much lighter than wooden hives, so it is advisable to weigh them down further. When wintering in the wild, you should take care to protect the hives from birds. The low density of the material obliges the beekeeper to be careful when working with the hive.
Spring cleaning and disinfection of hives made of PPS is limited to washing the internal surface hot water, followed by treatment with an alcoholic infusion of propolis, a weak solution of caustic soda or special means for cleaning polystyrene foam hives. Expanded polystyrene cannot be burned.
To make a hive from PPS you will need:
- ruler, pen;
- stationery knife;
- polystyrene foam adhesive;
- slabs of extruded polystyrene foam of appropriate density with a thickness of 50 and 30 mm;
- screws, screwdriver;
- mesh for bottom ventilation with a mesh size of no more than 3.5 mm;
- plastic corners 15x15 mm for gluing into folds under frame hangers.
We mark the sheets using a ruler and pen. Using a knife along a ruler at right angles to the plane of the slab, we cut through the PPS sheet. Then we apply glue to both surfaces to be glued, press them together and fasten them with self-tapping screws every 10-12 cm, recessing the caps by 0.5-1 cm. Self-tapping screws are needed only at the gluing stage, then the structure is held in place by the glue.
It must be remembered that making a hive requires maximum precision. Even a small gap between the two walls of the body allows light to penetrate inside, and the bees immediately make an additional entrance here. In the front and back walls folds are cut out to fit the frames and plastic corners are glued in.
My hive consists of buildings with 12 Dadan frames each, a detachable bottom with a ventilation mesh and a lid. All elements of the hive are interchangeable, which makes work easier and faster. The walls and bottom elements are made of extruded polystyrene foam 50 mm thick. This material is very warm and light. A wall thickness of 50 mm is enough to provide everyone necessary conditions. Cover made of polystyrene foam - 30 mm.
The bodies are connected through a “skirt”. This connection ensures stability, reduces the likelihood of light and air penetration between the housings, and also ensures easy separation of the housings from each other. There is no need to use a chisel when separating. I don’t use seam connections because of problems with removing the housings when the socket is strongly polarized, and the fragility of the seams themselves. A strip of polystyrene foam 20 mm thick is suitable as a taphole barrier. The width of the entrance is adjusted depending on the strength of the bee colony and external conditions.
Thus, a polystyrene foam hive can be easily and cheaply made even in the kitchen. This option is especially relevant for novice beekeepers.
Nikolay TATARENKOV,
In organic natural conditions bees lived and live in tree hollows. At the dawn of beekeeping, people settled hardworking insects in logs - wooden “cylinders”, obtained by hollowing out the core of a log. Later came the era of wooden hives. The pinnacle of evolution has become a hive made of polystyrene foam, which can provide the modern bee family with the most comfortable living conditions, and beekeeping professionals with access to production.
- allows you to provide the bee colony with warmth even in severe frosts, without resorting to any additional measures;
- minimizes bees' energy consumption for heating;
- increases apiary productivity.
- 1. They are characterized by minimal weight, which greatly facilitates their transportation and installation. Thus, a hive with 7 floors will weigh only 10 kg, while its wooden counterpart will weigh no less than 40 kg.
- 2. Pass enough sun rays so that the bees do not feel a lack of light.
- 3. Due to the extremely low coefficient of moisture absorption, they are not affected by dampness and do not collapse even during prolonged use in conditions of high humidity.
- 4. They do not deform, so damaged parts can be easily replaced with new ones, which is impossible in wooden hives, the geometry of which undergoes significant changes under the influence of sun, rain, and frost.
- 5. They do not have sharp corners or parts that could cause injury.
- 6. They are quite durable, although they are inferior to wood in this parameter.
- 7. Simple and easy to manufacture and assemble.
- 8. Capable of providing enhanced ventilation when the need arises (during the main bribe period).
- 9. Available in production due to the low cost of polystyrene foam.
- 10. Do not allow harmful microorganisms to develop on the surface.
- 11. They are environmentally friendly.
- 12. They have an attractive appearance and decorate apiaries.
- 1. The low weight, which helps to transport and install Finnish hives, turns into a disadvantage during their operation, since the weightless polystyrene foam structure can tip over even with a weak gust of wind.
- 2. Zero coefficient of moisture absorption saves the inhabitants of the hive from moisture from the outside, but also does not allow them to get rid of moisture, which is the result of the vital activity of bees, which accumulates inside.
- 3. The ease of processing polystyrene foam was appreciated not only by people, but also by bees: as soon as a tiny ray of light penetrates through some gap, they immediately begin to gnaw an additional hole in that direction.
- 4. Difficulties also arise when carrying out disinfection in the hive: blowtorch, which is used in this case for wooden hives, is not applicable here. You have to purchase expensive drugs that will clean the walls without entering into chemical reaction with polystyrene foam, will not be able to harm bees, or, once in their body, subsequently migrate into honey.
- 5. High temperature in the hive leads to the fact that the bees, in comparison with the inhabitants wooden houses, become more active and consume more food.
- pencil;
- glue;
- sharp knife;
- a ruler at least a meter long;
- wood screws;
- plastic corners (15x15 mm) to protect the ends
- glue for PPS (you can use “Titan”);
- water-based paint;
- polyurethane foam.
- 1. Sheets of teaching paper are marked with a pencil with a small allowance. The marking should be as accurate as possible.
- 2. Using a ruler and a knife, cut out the blanks.
- 3. Their edges are smoothed with sandpaper (this is why the allowance is needed). All surfaces must be absolutely flat and smooth, otherwise a tight connection cannot be achieved.
- 4. Grooves are made on the walls into which frames will subsequently be inserted.
- 5. Glue is applied to the joints, the parts are connected and fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in to a depth of 5 mm. The distance between the screws is 11-12 cm.
- 6. Possible glue drips are removed.
- 7. It is advisable to make indentations in the back and front walls with a knife and glue into them handles cut from the remains of polystyrene foam: they will come in handy later when you have to disassemble the hive.
- 8. The product should dry for about a day, after which its walls are lightly sanded without excessive pressure. At this stage, you need to check the hive for leaks and, if any cracks are found, seal them with foam.
- 1. Fix the plastic corners at the ends.
- 2. Install frames inside each of the housings.
- 3. Place an aluminum mesh on the bottom of the hive and on top of each body.
- 4. Place the lid.
- 5. The finished hive should be painted on the outside. Water-based paint ideal for these purposes, since it is non-toxic, unable to destroy polystyrene foam and will protect the product from minor damage, extending its service life.
- 1. Using a chisel, carefully remove excess propolis and dirt from the walls.
- 2. A weak solution of caustic soda is prepared and treated with it inner surface hive. For this purpose, you can also use an alcohol solution of propolis or the ash of sunflower tops diluted with water. You can also purchase a store-bought preparation intended for disinfection of PPS hives.
- 3. After treatment, all surfaces are washed clean water and dry.
Show all
What it is
Good idea to replace traditional tree expanded polystyrene (PPS) first appeared at the end of the last century among the Finns. The reason for this was the harsh climate of this northern country, which is why the second name of the new bee housing is Finnish hives.
Polystyrene foam hives
pros
Compared to wooden products PPS hives have many impressive advantages. The main one is the low thermal conductivity (8 times lower than that of wood) of this material, which:
During the hot season, PPS walls prevent overheating inside, maintaining the optimal temperature.
However, low thermal conductivity is not the only advantage. Houses made of polystyrene foam have additional advantages:
Minuses
There are some disadvantages, many of which are a continuation of the advantages:
All of the above disadvantages will not hinder either beekeepers or bees, if you remember the features of the Finnish hive.
Design nuances
Externally, the EPS structure is similar to a conventional wooden hive, but when creating and installing it, you must remember that the floor in the polystyrene foam hive is made of an aluminum grid with cells no larger than 3.5 mm, which serves for ventilation. A retractable tray is installed under it, which makes it possible to regulate the air flow, increasing it when you need to lower the temperature in the hive or get rid of excess moisture.
The bottom mesh also serves as protection against small rodents and insects. Grates are also installed between the buildings: they are needed to collect propolis. The product is covered on top with a lid designed so that the hive can be ventilated. You should take care of a special bar for the taphole, which will regulate its size and, accordingly, air circulation.
During installation purchased product It is necessary to connect all elements as tightly as possible to avoid gaps. At self-production It is important that all parts correspond exactly to the drawing and do not have distortions or irregularities. It is imperative to protect the ends of PPS parts plastic covers: polystyrene foam will not crumble, and keeping the hive clean will become much easier.
The house will need to be firmly secured. The simplest way, used for small structures, place a brick on its roof (for tall hives consisting of several buildings, it is necessary to choose more reliable option, such as a wire staple).
The easiest way to secure the hive cover
Components for building a hive made of polystyrene foam can be purchased at the store; Finnish “biboxes” are especially popular now, which provide everything for the convenience of both bees and the beekeeper: grids for collecting propolis, feeders, anti-swarm systems, etc.
How to make a Finnish beehive yourself
A polystyrene foam hive consists of three main parts, for the manufacture of which you will need sheets of extruded polystyrene foam 5 cm thick - a body, a roof and a base.
To make a hive with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:
When calculating how much material is needed for production, it is important to consider that products are multi-body and can have up to 7 floors.
Examples of drawings of a one-story hive:
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Now you can begin the final operations:
Beekeepers who already have operating experience Finnish hives, it is recommended to immediately make several spare parts or at least leave polystyrene plates for their subsequent production. They can come in handy because a polystyrene foam product is not able to withstand strong impacts.
Finnish hive all year round
Since walls made of polystyrene foam are unable to absorb moisture, the thermoregulation and ventilation of an EPS hive differs from that of a hive made of hygroscopic wood.
In summer, the tap hole and the hole in the bottom open completely, ensuring constant air movement from top to bottom. If there is a dividing grid between the housings, you will need to drill the upper entrance, otherwise it will be difficult for a bee loaded with nectar and pollen to get from one housing to another.
In spring, the bottom should be closed completely, the entrance should be covered, reducing its size to an average of 3 cm. If there is no special strip, you can use a piece of foam rubber for this.
During the first spring flight of bees, the hive is usually cleaned in the following order:
In winter, the bottom opens completely, the size of the entrance is about 5 cm, and the roof turns over. Air moves from bottom to top. The upper surface of the frames is covered with film (but a gap must be left on the sides for air movement). Moisture from the bees’ breath will collect on it and on the walls of the hive, and then flow into the hole in the bottom.
The use of special pillows or insulation is not required.
Dear visitors to the site “Visiting Samodelkin”, from the master class presented by the author, you will learn how you can independently make a PPSh (Shpagin submachine gun) from wood.
This machine gun was created for the author’s son, who was 6 years old. The guy has a natural and healthy desire for small arms, mainly liking weapons from the Great Period. Patriotic War. Having seen the PPSh at the parade, I was eager to get one))
Well, it’s the father’s duty to find a toy machine at all costs; in toy stores the prices are usually inflated, and the quality leaves much to be desired. It was decided to make a submachine gun yourself from wood; they had been lying on the balcony for about 10 years already 2 furniture panels from the Christmas tree, they became the starting material.
I found a ready-made sketch on the Internet, downloaded it, redrew it and transferred the drawing onto 2 furniture panels pre-glued together. I glued the boards with wood glue and clamped them with clamps, the thickness of one plate is 18 mm, in the process it turned out that they were not very even, maybe from time to time, in general it was difficult to glue and pull together.
I also wanted the machine gun to be very similar and detailed, so detachable magazines, a trigger, a front sight, a bolt, swivels, a sight, and a butt plate were added.
So, let's look at what exactly is required to make a submachine gun?
Materials
1. furniture board 2 pcs (spruce) 18 mm
2. wood glue
3. latch
4. butt plate from a real 19th century gun (you can use a simple brass plate)
5. paint, varnish, primer
6. 3-4mm aluminum plate
7. swivels
Tools
1. jigsaw
2. drill
3. router
4. file
5. chisel
6. screwdriver
7. sandpaper
8. paint-remote
9. clamps
10. brush
11. spray booth or box
12. ruler
Step-by-step instructions for making PPSh from wood with your own hands.
First, you should familiarize yourself with the history of the creation of the machine itself, by whom and when was it developed?
A little historical background. The PPSh, also known as the Shpagin submachine gun, was developed in 1940 by gunsmith designer G.S. Shpagin. Adopted by the Red Army on December 21, 1940. The cartridge is 7.62x25 TT, the drum magazine capacity is 71 rounds, the rate of fire is 1000 rounds per minute. Is one of the main symbols of victory Soviet Union in the Second World War. It was in service until 1960, then it was replaced by the AK-47. In some CIS countries, it is still in service with police and security forces to this day.
In our case, the machine will be a toy, but as close as possible to the original appearance) The main material is 2 furniture panels 18 mm thick, the author took spruce, but according to him it is better to take harder wood, because spruce is soft and brittle, in the process I had to glue the broken pieces back many times.
We take the shield, coat it with wood glue, then cover it with a second shield on top and tighten it with clamps; again, the author recommends using metal clamps, because plastic ones are too weak if the surfaces are uneven.
Afterwards, you need to let the glue dry for at least a day (24 hours). Next, the author, based on a drawing from the Internet, drew a contour on the workpiece and cut it out using a jigsaw.
This is exactly what happened in the end.
We chamfer, round and sand with sandpaper.
Holes are milled air cooling submachine gun barrel.
A semicircle is sharpened with a file.
Use a chisel to select wood for the swivel.
Preparation metal blanks for subsequent painting, except for the backplate, because it is from a real 19th century gun.
Suspended in paint booth and covered with soil.
Painted, now you need to give the parts time to dry.
From metal plate a lever is cut out to attach the disc magazine of a submachine gun, and on the disc itself the attachment point is reinforced with a plate with a hole.
After which a groove is drilled for installing the lever.
The grooves for the bracket and trigger are also drilled.
And here is the actual result painstaking work masters
As you can see, if you wish, you can make a cool toy for your child from wood with your own hands, and the most important thing is that the boy will hold in his hands the symbol of the Victory of his Heroic Soviet people over the World Evil. A true patriot of his Fatherland and a defender of the Motherland is growing up.
Dear Fathers! Do it for the children wooden Toys with patriotic overtones! You have a sample, so let’s take it and do it. Take heart, friends. I have the honor!
This concludes the article. Everyone Thanks a lot for your attention!
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