Selecting an electrical cable for wiring is an important and crucial step in the process of organizing a garage connection to electricity.
Requirements for electrical lines
When choosing a cable for wiring, follow the advice of experienced electricians or your own calculations. There are generally accepted rules and SNiPs that regulate the use of metal cords for cables. And using these rules ensures the safety and durability of the wiring in your home or garage.
Before choosing an electrical cable, keep in mind that the network must withstand a significant load, because in garages they turn on not only light bulbs, but also:
- Bulgarians
- machines
- welders
If you don't provide for this, you may encounter problems in the form of a short circuit or fire, and this may have unpleasant consequences not only for technology, but also for people.
Separate metal cords are rarely used to set up electrical wiring. Typically a three-core cable is used. It is based on aluminum or copper wire. Depending on the type of metal, it has different sections and withstands different levels voltage.
Automatic machines and RCDs
The machines are used taking into account the load that the electrical network in the room can withstand. When it increases, the machine turns off the electricity supply to avoid a short circuit. The following types of machines are used:
- in everyday life - from 3000 A
- at the entrance to the apartment - from 6000 A
- V production premises- 6000-10000 A
It is advisable to install an automatic machine in the garage third type. The wiring must comply with the permissible voltage. Do not neglect this rule, because too much stress can lead to serious consequences.
To protect a person from electric shock, another type of machine is used - a residual current device. It not only turns off the current at the moment of accidental contact with the electrical network, but also serves to monitor the condition of their insulation. There are devices that combine the functions of a conventional machine and an RCD. They are very convenient to use in small spaces.
Aluminum wire
Aluminum is a common material; therefore, cables with it cost less than with copper. This material is also quite lightweight, so it is convenient to use to reduce the impact on the attachment site.
Such wiring has increased electrical resistance, therefore, according to the new requirements, it is recommended to use electrical cords with a cross-section of at least 16 mm. This means that a thicker electrical cable is used. It should be taken into account that this metal has the property of oxidizing when interacting with oxygen, and the resulting film has a reduced conductivity. Being in the cable, it appears at the top, thereby reducing cross section and increasing resistance. With significant voltage, such a metal cord heats up. But this can be avoided if you use wire with a sufficient cross-section in the garage.
There are rules for the operation of such electrical cables:
- sufficient cross section
- use of clamping contacts and special lubricants to connect individual parts
- service life is no more than 25 years
Aluminum has the property of expanding when heated. The same thing happens with metal cords. When loaded, they may increase in diameter, but after cooling they acquire their usual shape. Due to this, loosening of the contacts at the ends of the electrical wires may occur, so check and tighten them periodically. Also, be sure to install automatic machines or RCDs in the garage.
Copper wire
Electrical wires made of this metal are characterized by lower resistivity. That is, when same size cross-section, such a metal cord will pass more current than an aluminum one. Also, copper wire has the following properties:
- resistant to physical impact
- has a long service life
- does not reduce the level of conductivity during oxidation
Like aluminum, copper oxidizes. But the film formed on the surface has completely different properties. Unlike film on aluminum, it has greater conductivity. But it is easy to break; all you need to do is twist two electrical cables. Oxidation occurs at low temperatures, the process accelerates when copper is heated above 70 degrees.
Based on the properties of copper electrical wire, it is obvious that its use allows you to obtain a high-quality and safe cable for wiring in the garage.
Comparison of the properties of electrical wires and their use in one wiring
|
Section, mm2 |
Copper |
Aluminum |
||||
|
Current, A |
Power, kWt |
Current, A |
power, kWt |
|||
These tables clearly show how efficient copper wires are. If you do not have the opportunity to make all the wiring in the garage from cables with copper electrical wires, combine them. But it is advisable to adhere to some recommendations.
Determine which outlets will be used for high-power appliances and run copper wires to them. This way you will protect yourself from cable overheating and failure. And aluminum wires can be connected to lighting fixtures. The load on them is not so great, so you can save money here, but do not forget about installing automatic machines. Please note that copper and aluminum wires cannot be twisted. This is due to their physical properties. Due to different conductivities, the joints will heat up. Since aluminum expands when heated, but copper does not, there will be some deformation wires from the first metal.
That's why To use electrical wires made of different metals, a “nut” connection is used. It uses three plates. Thus, different metals contact each other through the plate. And it is possible to avoid the difficulties that arise when twisting different types electrical wires. The connection can also be made using spring terminals, while clearing first 15-20 mm wire. After this, it is inserted into the holes where they are clamped with levers; in the middle of such terminals there is a lubricant that prevents oxidation.
When choosing the type of electrical cable, be guided by its markings. There are electrical cords that are specifically used for plaster. They are resistant to ignition and combustion. Other types are convenient when working with drywall; they not only do not burn, but also do not smoke. Also important parameter- number of cores. Additionally, the power cord is marked with letters that indicate the type of insulation. It can be made of PVC or absent altogether.
The basic requirements that must be taken into account during electrical installation at almost any facility are described in the Rules for the Construction of Electrical Installations (PUE) in Chapter 2.1 (electrical wiring), as well as, on certain issues, in a number of other chapters. In this article we will look at the basic requirements and standard schemes knowledge of which is necessary in order to do electrical wiring in the garage with your own hands.
- How to install electrical wiring in a garage?
Any electrical wiring begins with choosing a method for its installation. Typically, garage wiring is done openly to reduce costs. If the garage is made of cinder block, brick, iron, i.e. any non-flammable material, then laying can be done in almost any way, from laying in a corrugation to direct laying (for example, on brackets), but if the garage is made of wood or any other combustible material, this imposes much more restrictions on possible ways gaskets, in this case it is better to carry out electrical wiring in a box (cable channel).
- Which cable (wire) should I use for wiring in the garage?
For wiring, it is necessary to use cables with aluminum (AVVG brand) or copper (VVG brand) conductors, and it is better to give preference to copper:
Use of flexible wires such as PVA or SHVVP cords not allowed! They are used only for connecting mobile, portable and stationary electrical appliances to the network or for extension cords.
- What cable size should I use?
The cross-section of the cables used for wiring is determined based on the power of the electrical appliances connected to them; knowing this power, you can calculate the cross-section using ours. As a rule, cables with a cross-section of 1.5 (or 2.5) mm 2 for copper, or 2.5 (or 4) mm 2 for aluminum are used for electrical wiring.
- What electrical safety requirements must be observed?
Modern electrical safety requirements state that new buildings must have grounding (7.1.13. Electrical receivers must be powered from a 380/220V network with a grounding system or ), in domestic realities, it is implemented according to TN-C-S system, where at the input the neutral conductor is re-grounded and divided into a working zero and a protective conductor (read more about how to make grounding using the TN-C-S system), therefore the cables must have a grounding conductor, i.e. For electrical wiring, you must use three-core (for a single-phase network) or five-core (for a three-phase network) cables.
It is also worth considering that in a garage there is often a need to use a portable lamp. But in accordance with the requirements of the PUE the use of 220 volt carriers is prohibited, paragraph 6.1.17 states that to power portable lamps in high-risk and especially dangerous rooms, a voltage of no higher than 50 V should be used, and if they are used in cramped conditions or the worker is in an uncomfortable room (and often the car mechanic’s position is such), then the voltage should not exceed 12V).
You can get this voltage in the garage in two ways: by powering the carrier from a 12V car battery or from a step-down transformer. Of course, you can use the first step-down transformer you come across that meets the requirements, but it is much more rational to purchase a complete box with a step-down transformer, a circuit breaker and a socket, for example, YaTP 0.25 220/12B (manufactured by different companies, one example of a name for easy search on the Internet stores - IEK MTT12-012-250), its power is 250 VA, there are more powerful options, they are selected based on needs (number and power of lamps).
You can mount it in an electrical panel or on the wall in any convenient place (but not in an inspection hole) and use it to power either a portable lamp or stationary 12V lamps.
In the inspection pit itself there are two dangerous factors - cramped working conditions and often damp, to the point of dripping groundwater. That's why there should be no sockets or stationary lamps in the pit that operate on 220V. If it is necessary to install a lamp or socket for carrying, their connection must be made from a step-down transformer.
All lamps with a voltage of 220V, including portable ones, must be located at a height of at least 2.5 meters (to prevent damage to electric shock accidental touch).
- What lamps and sockets should I use for lighting in the garage?
In addition, sockets in a 220 Volt network must have a grounding contact.
The required number and power of lamps can be calculated using
Wiring diagram
Let's consider standard version electrical wiring in the garage at 220 volts. Any electrical wiring begins with an introductory switchgear(electrical panel) abbreviated as ASU, in which protection devices (, etc.) and an electric meter (if necessary) will be installed in the future, while the ASU itself, as a rule, is better installed near the entrance to the garage.
On the front or side panel of the ASU, or next to it, light switches for the main (ceiling) lighting and a socket block are installed. It is better to install local lighting switches directly next to these lamps, that is, if you have an additional lamp installed above your workbench, then it is better to install the switch next to it. It is useful to install one or more outlets on the opposite wall, near the workbench (desktop), so as not to scatter extension cords throughout the garage.
It is not safe to lay 220V lines in the inspection pit and, based on the above, this is completely prohibited. Therefore, you need to limit yourself to 12V lamps; you can also place a 12V outlet to connect a portable lamp or tool with a reduced power supply voltage.
If you have a compressor, a separate line is also laid to it.
Based on all of the above, the arrangement of electrical equipment in the garage will look something like this:
NOTE: Gray distribution boxes are shown where the wires of lines with a voltage of 220V are connected, and the green line is 12V.
Then the 220V electrical wiring diagram (sockets, compressor, as well as working and ceiling lighting) in the garage will look like this:
The distribution boxes are labeled with numbers; you will see their wiring diagrams below. Having drawn up the wiring diagram, you should calculate the length of the lines for purchasing the cable. The core cross-sections for lighting lines are usually chosen to be 1.5 mm², and for sockets - 2.5 mm². The cross-section of the cable cores for connecting the compressor is selected based on its power; in the diagram, 2.5 mm² is conventionally taken (as a rule, this is enough). You can calculate more accurately using ours.
We also present basic connection diagrams separately for each cable in accordance with the wiring diagram drawn up above:
Here you see the connection two-gang switch For driving ceiling lighting and wiring to sockets. We discussed this issue in more detail in, and if you want to control the lights in the garage from several places, then it will be useful for you
The cable to the compressor is not shown in these diagrams - it comes directly from the panel.
Now let's look at laying 12 Volt networks. Using the example of a box with a step-down transformer of the YaTP type, its connection diagram will look like this:
NOTE: When choosing a cable for a 12 Volt network, you must also use our other calculator.
The 12 Volt wiring diagram will look like this:
It is rational to conduct wiring into the pit in a screed, laying PVC, HDPE or metal pipe.
Cable connection diagrams in junction boxes, according to numbering, in the previous figure:
The second distribution box is located in the inspection pit; it is where the cables for powering all lamps and the socket for a portable light source are disconnected
The technology for creating electrical wiring in a garage differs from work in an apartment or private house. However, it is not difficult to install electricity into the garage, but you may need the help of a specialist. The fact is that the supply of electricity from the pole to the panel must be carried out by a qualified electrician with a license to work with high voltage voltage. Inside the garage, you can already cope with the task yourself.
Scheme development
Before the beginning installation work You should create a wiring diagram for your garage. It must necessarily indicate the location of the cable entry into the building, as well as the location of the electrical panel, lamps and sockets. . When drawing up a diagram, you must follow several requirements:
Here is an example of an electrical wiring diagram in a garage, which will not be very difficult to create with your own hands:
Selection and calculation of materials
After completing the circuit design work, you can begin selecting necessary materials. First of all, you should decide on the amount of cable. Since it is necessary to carry out not only internal, but also external wiring (from the pole to the building), conductors must be selected for each type of work.
To extend the external line, you should use a cable with current-carrying copper cores, the cross-section of which is at least 10 mm 2. It is not advisable to use a conductor with aluminum cores. This is due not only to the need to use a conductor with a larger cross-section compared to copper wire, but also due to the low elasticity of aluminum. In such a situation, the risks of mechanical damage increase significantly.
For calculation required quantity wires, you need to decide on all the electrical appliances that you plan to install in the garage. The total power of these devices should be multiplied by 1.2 to provide a power reserve of 20%. To connect sockets, it is recommended to use conductors with a cross-section of 4 mm 2 or more, and for switches 1.5 mm 2 will be sufficient. It is also necessary to take extra wire in length. For each connection, it is recommended to increase the estimated length by 15 cm.
In a garage, it is often enough to install 2 sockets and switches. If the basement or inspection hole is not in the building, then you can limit yourself to one switch. Now many people are paying attention to LED lights. They are more expensive than fluorescent ones, but are more economical. Most often, in a garage, electrical wiring is installed using the open method, and in such a situation, you should additionally calculate the number of cable channels or corrugations.
Installation stages
All work can be divided into three stages. Each of them has its own characteristics that need to be taken into account when working independently.
Preparatory work
Preliminary work consists of preparing the walls and cutting conductors. It should be remembered that markings on the surface of the walls must be applied in accordance with the previously developed scheme. To solve this problem, the easiest way is to use a special cord.
It is installed at the starting point and secured. After this, the cord, in a taut state, is pulled along the wall to the next wiring point, pulled to the side and lowered with a sharp movement. As a result, an imprint remains on the surface of the wall. At this stage, it is important to pull the cord strictly vertically or horizontally in accordance with the diagram.
When the wiring will be done in a hidden way, then after marking you will have to make grooves for the wires. If the garage is metal, then you should choose open wiring. It should be remembered that the dimensions of the grooves should be 20x20 mm.
External wiring
It is advisable to entrust these works to a specialist. The easiest way to route the cable from the pole to the garage is by air. However, it should be remembered that when the distance from the pole on the street to the building is more than 25 m, then another additional support must be installed. In addition, several height requirements are imposed on overhead electrical wiring:
- Above the roadway – from 6 m.
- Above pedestrian paths - more than 3.75 m.
- Entry into the building – minimum 2.77 m.
If the first two requirements are met without problems, then the same cannot be said about the last. The garage is a low building and when entering the cable through the roof you may encounter big amount problems. To avoid them, it is recommended to enter through a metal pipe slightly curved at the top.
You can also conduct electricity from a pole using underground wiring. There shouldn't be any difficulties here. you just need to make a trench, into which the armored conductor is then placed. An example of such a cable would be a cable marked VBBShV. However, this entry method should be considered at the stage of construction of the garage and a hole should be provided in the foundation for cable entry.
To protect the conductor from mechanical damage, it is better to place it in a steel box. The only drawback The underground installation method compared to the air method is its higher cost.
Inner gasket
If electrical wiring is carried out in a hidden way, then the wires are laid in pre-made grooves, after which they are secured using staples or clamps. The next step is to install distribution boxes, as well as installation of switches and sockets.
After this, all that remains is to connect all the wires and test the finished wiring with a multimeter. It should also be recalled that Wiring connections must be performed exclusively using terminal blocks.. If after checking the electrical wiring there are no problems, then the walls are plastered.
In iron or wooden garage wiring is easier open method. To do this, cable channels are installed on the walls into which the wires are laid. This method of installing electrical wiring is extremely rarely used in residential premises, but is excellent for the garage.
Even a novice electrician can do wiring in a garage. Although this is a rather labor-intensive process, it is not very complex.
Without making detailed references to garage electrical standards SNIP And PUE(rules for electrical installations), and other rules, which would make the article cumbersome and difficult to read, it is still necessary to write out the essence.
If it is owned cooperatively, you will need to obtain permission for it. electrification. You can find out more details from the cooperative administration.
To connect to three-phase network 0.4 kV (380 V) please contact your local power supply company. If everything is done according to the rules, then they will draw up a project according to the customer’s requirements. (In fact, such a project arises as a coordination of the customer’s wishes with the possibilities and limitations of the rules.)
You can do the installation yourself electrical wiring in the garage, as well as perform all installation work. But that's only when we're talking about about single-phase network 220 V. To connect a three-phase network you will need permission. And installation to a separate meter will be done by an authorized organization (local electricity supply).
In case of network 220 V take care of a meter designed for current in 50 Amps so that, if necessary, there is a reserve of load current. Of course, the cables from the input must provide this current. This work is also done by specialists under control energy supervision.
If your meter already provides such a current (visible on the meter itself), then you can make a connection to the garage, over the air, or underground.
How to do wiring in the garage with your own hands - photo:
How to spend electrical wiring in the garage? First, let's discuss what you can do on your own, on your own. From the house you can run electricity to the garage by air or under earth. Air line made with a cable and suspended on a steel support wire with a diameter of 3 mm.
The line is pulled underground in a corrugated plastic pipe, in a trench 80 cm deep, on a bed of sand, 10 cm thick. This line is connected to the home meter and is thus part of apartment wiring, as a separate line, also protected by a machine.
In the room itself, a self-made electrical panel for garage for further distribution of electricity (see electrical panel diagram for the garage below). And this one switch box for a garage it starts with the main machine, the same as in the apartment. We will talk about the choice of rated current for them below.
DIY electrical distribution panel diagram for a garage: 
Schemes and location of consumers
How to spend wiring in the garage with your own hands? Before starting work you need to select wiring diagram in the garage with your own hands. Garage wiring diagrams vary depending on what information is needed by the person looking at them. In electrical engineering there are circuit diagrams And layout diagrams.
The first should describe in detail the entire electrical circuit, and the second - the location of consumers, indicating the distance or so that you can navigate by the scale of the drawing. Let's start with schematic diagram connecting the wiring to the garage, which is required in accordance with latest version PUE.
Single phase circuit diagram The garage's electrical supply is shown in the figure below. For convenience, the wiring diagram in the garage uses the actual colors of the wires (as in regular cables).
Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in the garage - diagram, photo: 
The phase conductor of the network is under dangerous voltage relative to neutral and ground, since neutral is usually grounded. However, for the operation of the residual current device (RCD), a protective earth (PE, protection earth) is required.
ATTENTION! Never connect protective earth to neutral! Use correctly arranged grounding.
Principle of operation RCD consists of using a differential transformer, which adds up the incoming (through the phase wire) and outgoing (through the neutral wire) currents. If the consumer's insulation is damaged and there is a short circuit to the housing, then the sum of the phase wire and neutral currents is not zero. And the difference is made precisely by the leakage current to the ground.
Perhaps this current flows through the human body! Lethal current approx. 100 mA. And the RCD shown in the diagram is configured for current 5 mA. Thus, the person will be protected, because the device will operate in milliseconds and open the circuit.
But this only works if the leakage current flows in addition to the differential transformer RCD, namely in a separate grounding line!
The main machine de-energizes our small network in the diagram in case of short circuits on a common line (magnetic protection) or in the event of a large total overload of all lines ( thermal protection). It is also used for repairs.
In order to ensure the independence of different consumers, it is used several lines feeding from one or more groups. Usually in a private garage, as in an apartment, one group is enough. And each group is powered by its own machine in the phase circuit. This is very convenient for repairs.
Automata ( circuit breakers) protect their circuits from overcurrent and short circuits. It should be remembered that RCD protects circuits only from leakage currents! It does not protect the circuit from overcurrent, the circuit breaker does that.
Tires, located in the shields, are made in the form of strips or bars made of copper or brass alloys and are equipped with holes for wires that are tightened with screws. It should be said that the modern range of electrical products is very convenient for installation work if used correctly.
Three-phase network diagram differs from single-phase only in two additional phases and the installation of three-phase (built-in) circuit breakers and RCDs. The individual phases of this network are routed as voltage lines 220 V together with neutral. Between any two phases the voltage is equal 380 V, and the phase angle in a uniformly loaded network is 120 degrees. In this case, the current in the neutral is zero.
Electricity in the garage with your own hands - the layout is shown in the following figure: 
On such electrical diagrams in the garage, it is not necessary to fulfill the requirements for drawings according to accepted rules, since we make them for ourselves. The main thing is clarity all designations. Vertical sections of wiring are marked with pluses indicating the height. This will make it possible to easily calculate the length of the lines.
On the wiring diagram for electrical wiring in the garage are indicated symbols sockets And lamps. Switches can be added. Everything is added by location. We'll work on this document a little more later when we select materials.
Selection of wires and cables according to load power
Here you can use the following table: 
The table is compiled for voltage 230 V (new standard instead of 220). Now we can select the cable sizes for the garage in the previous picture. Let's assume that all the lamps under the ceiling are on 80 W, lamps on 36 V in the hole 100 W and we will need sockets for the pit for electrical equipment with a power of up to 5 kW.
A line of ceiling lights consumes a total of 240 W, and for pit lamps we cannot use the table, since the transformer voltage 36 V. In addition, the pit has an outlet for power tools. 36 V. Therefore, we proceed from the maximum power of the transformer, let it be equal to 500 W.
Let's calculate the current by power: I = P/U = 500/36 = 14 A (rounded up).
Wire from transformer it is better to conduct copper wiring closed type- part of it passes through pipes to concrete floor garage. Therefore, a cable with a conductor cross-section of 4.5 mm.kv, “four and a half squares” in the jargon of electricians, is suitable for us. For pit sockets, we will also take copper wire for closed wiring, this will require, according to the table, 5.5 mm.sq.
In fact, these meticulous calculations are not trivial at all, you will understand this as soon as you find yourself in a store and start looking at the price tags of copper cables.
So we will need 8 m cable 4.5 mm.sq. and 7 m cable 5.5 mm.sq. And 9 m aluminum cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm.kv for ceiling lamps, thinner than an electric cable is practically not available for sale. We select and buy the nearest sections, rounded up.
We choose aluminum because it inexpensive, and the ceiling line is practically unloaded. Cables should be selected with double insulation and with insulating conductors.
By current we select and machine guns. For a line of ceiling lights 2.5 A, for a line of sockets in a pit 15 A, and the transformer remains. Since the transformer transforms not only voltages, but also currents with the same ratio, we can easily calculate the current in the primary winding: 14 / (220 / 36) = 14 * 36 / 220 = 2.3 A. An automatic machine will do. 2.5 A. The total maximum current will be 20 Amps and the automatic machine should be the same. All that remains is to choose the appropriate RCD.
It must be designed for a passing current of at least 20 A and operating current 10-20 mA, not more! Devices with proper insulation have virtually zero leakage current.
Other materials and installation technology
Cables and busbars are placed in closed shields, boxes and cable ducts or trays. These materials were traditionally made from metal. Nowadays they use non-flammable plastic in the form of pipes, round or rectangular. Worst of all corrugated pipe – it can be very difficult to pull cables and wires into it.
The best option is cable trays with snap-on lids. Good fit metal-plastic pipe for plumbing or heating.
At bend points, if it is impossible to make this bend with a large radius from pipes, use boxes, which serve for the distribution of branches and the installation of switches.
Both boxes and pipes must be well fastened to load-bearing elements (walls, beams, ceilings), and the connection of pipes to boxes should be, if possible, airtight.
In practice, you will have to show patience and skill, even when using the most technologically advanced materials.
Pulling cables through pipes should begin with wire, which is inserted into the pipe using a special head that prevents jamming. The cable is then tied to a wire and pulled through the pipe. This is why trays with locking lids are preferred. They are very easy to install and repair.
The trays require significantly fewer holes to attach and have a neat appearance. In the garage example, trays could be used in vertical sections of wiring, and ceiling lamps can be hung on a tensioned rope.
It is advisable to use a clamp connection in boxes screws, but you can solder copper strands, this is also quite reliable method. To switch from aluminum to copper, in order to avoid corrosion, you must use either special terminals or washers made of zinc or galvanized steel. This will get in the way corrosion in a humid environment. “Bare” contact between copper and aluminum will inevitably lead to corrosion, deterioration of the contact and overheating.
Grounding
How to make it in the garage with your own hands? The role of grounding has already been discussed above and now how to organize it. To do this, drive a steel rod into the ground near the garage. galvanized pipe 2 meters long and weld round steel with a diameter of 6-8 mm to it. It is advisable to choose a damp grounding location.
Steel circle (it needs to be painted waterproof paint), is brought into the garage and there it is led to the panel, where another terminal is made for a reliable connection with PE bus thick copper wire. Grounding the lower its resistance, the better, so the thickness of the grounding conductor must be sufficient.
Performance email postings in the garage on your own it is possible. Self-wiring wiring in the garage will require significantly lower costs than using employees. But if you want to spend on high level electrician in the garage with your own hands, you will have to learn a lot in this process and read articles like this one.
This article was mainly devoted to design garage wiring, which is not given too much attention. The topic is not small, and within one article it is impossible to cover all the practical subtleties associated with installation. But on the Internet there are many wiring diagrams for the garage and good videos concerning the practical part of the work and how to perform it.
Useful video
How to do wiring in a garage correctly? Watch the video below:
Each garage equipped with suburban area, needs electricity. It is needed both for connecting various electrical appliances and for lighting the room. It is necessary to arrange the electrical wiring during the construction of the garage.
Peculiarities
- First, to conduct electricity into the garage, you must obtain permission from the local Energy Supervision Authority.
- Secondly, independent work Electrical connections can only be carried out if you have the appropriate experience.
Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in the garage is made of two parts: external and internal. Electricity supply to a separate building is carried out through walls, cornices or canopies. If it is necessary to have a socket outside, it must be weatherproof.
To connect a separate building to electricity, in in this case garage, you must use an electrical panel.
Note! Before you begin installing electrical wiring inside the garage, you need to draw up a wiring diagram for this room. It should reflect the placement of electrical wiring lines, the location of sockets, as well as the order of their connection to each other, including lighting fixtures.
It is not recommended to place lighting fixtures in a hole, if one is provided in the garage. The fact is that not a single device, no matter what wall it is located on, will be able to completely illuminate the repair site. Therefore, experts suggest installing only an outlet into the pit to connect a powerful portable flashlight.
If there are several lamps for one key, you will have to stretch the cable to the first lighting device, and from it - a jumper in the form of a cable or parallel connection. To connect several independent lighting fixtures, you will need to connect all the wires with a power cable.
Note! Ordinary copper cable, most often used in electrical distribution, can withstand a load of 3.2 to 5 kW. When drawing up a wiring diagram, you need to focus on this maximum load value.
All switches in the garage should be located at a height of at least 1.5-1.7 m from the floor, and sockets - about a meter from the floor.
Note! The main feature of electrical wiring for a garage is the location of the wires not inside the walls, but directly on them. This will allow you to make repairs as quickly as possible if necessary.
Internal breeding can be implemented in several ways:
- The placement of wiring on the walls is done openly;
- placement of wiring in special PVC pipes;
- combined wiring placement.
For a garage, combined wiring placement is most suitable. It allows you to cover the main electrical wiring components with plastic elements, and press ordinary cables to the wall using special fasteners.
Required tools and materials
- wire cutters, sharp knife;
- drill or hammer drill;
- crosshead screwdriver;
- sockets, switches, electrical circuit breaker and panel, lighting fixtures.
Installation stages
- Before starting work, you need to choose an electric machine for the garage. Most suitable option is a two-pole type C circuit breaker. In the electrical box, which should be located in the garage, you need to place both the machine and the meter. Therefore, when choosing a box that will be a shield, you need to focus on the dimensions of both the machine and the counter.
- A cable connected to the garage from the outside is connected to the electrical panel. He goes to the counter, and then to the machine. The number of machines depends on the lighting points planned in the garage. For example, for sockets and overhead lighting in a garage, two are enough.
- After connecting the cable to the electrical panel, you can begin routing wires throughout the garage. Wires can pass through walls either openly, that is, connected to the wall with special clamps, or closed. The second method may include both gating walls for laying wires, if the garage is built of brick, and installing special PVC boxes for communications. The first method, although not as aesthetically pleasing, significantly saves energy and time.
- Connecting sockets and lighting fixtures can be done both from the panel and to it. The first method involves pulling the wire to an outlet or lighting fixture, the second - from an outlet or lighting fixture installed at a predetermined location to the panel.
When carrying out work on connecting the phase wire to the machine, you must completely de-energize the garage for your own safety.
After connecting all sockets and lighting fixtures and securing the wires to the electrical panel, you can test turn on the electrical machine. Electrical wiring in the garage – a completely comprehensible task if you have at least a little experience in working with electricity.
Video
Which machines to install when wiring a garage, see below:
