DIY creative paving slabs. Guide: how to make paving slabs at home. Forms for tiles: preparation

Now almost every person has a personal plot, be it a dacha or a residential building, where there are recreation areas, paths, paths, parking lots and other various places where a person’s foot directly “steps.” It is no secret that in modern society everyone wants to achieve the best in their area, unique design, both in the architecture of the house and in the landscape of the surrounding area, and this can only be achieved with your own hands and imagination. Now it has become very fashionable to lay out paths and recreation areas with paving slabs, but not everyone can afford it.

Everyone dreams of a beautiful garden path design. You can achieve an unusual result by doing the paving yourself.

In this article you will learn how to make paving slabs yourself.

DIY tools for making paving slabs

The manufacturing technology is quite elementary, since you can make paving slabs yourself even at home. In order to make paving slabs yourself, you will need a simple tool:

• concrete mixer;
• vibrating table;
• picking shovel;
• metal bucket;
• pallets.

Forced-action concrete mixers are designed to load from 40 to 300 kg of concrete mixture. Vibrating tables can have almost any size working surface.

There is no need to be intimidated by such things as a concrete mixer and a vibrating table. Nowadays, many people build houses with their own hands, and perhaps they will rent you a concrete mixer, and you can make a vibrating table at home yourself. To do this, you will need a metal corner 50*50 - use welding to make a table frame. The vibration motor will be the starter from the car, with two massive washers screwed onto the shaft. The holes on the washers must be offset. Vibration can be adjusted by moving the washers apart from each other. To vibrate the table in a horizontal position, you need to connect the vibration motor to the legs of the table in a vertical position; you can make the tabletop yourself from chipboard, a sheet of iron or other available material.

If for some reason you were unable to make a vibration table yourself or it is too difficult for you, there is the simplest option. After you have poured the solution into the mold, place it on a stool or other surface that is level. Then take a hammer or mallet and create the vibration yourself by tapping the surface of your stand until bubbles form on the workpieces. The appearance of bubbles will mean that there is no more air. So, now that you have all the tools, proceed directly to manufacturing.

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Material for making paving slabs with your own hands:

• cement grade not lower than A-Sh-500;
• dyes;
• plasticizer (C-3);
• granite screening;
• lubricant for molds.

Which is made at enterprises, differs from the one that was made independently, in that it is made at the enterprise in accordance with GOST 17608-91. It must meet very stringent requirements, since it is used not only for the house, but also for the road surface where paving stones used to be. Therefore, the tile must have very high frost resistance, at least 300 periods of freezing and thawing. Have a strength of at least 40 MPa, moisture absorption - no more than 5% and wear resistance - no more than 0.7 g/cm. To make paving slabs that are not inferior to factory ones, it is necessary to take great responsibility for the selection and quality of the material.

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Forms for tiles: preparation

This house is called vibratory casting. Before starting work, you need to select forms for pouring. The best option is plastic molds. You can also make the form yourself. By making shapes with your own hands from various available materials, you yourself choose the geometrically most interesting shape for yourself. Before starting pouring, it is necessary to lubricate the molds with a special lubricant so that the tiles can be easier to remove later.

If you haven't found a specialized lubricant, you can make it at home yourself, but be careful: it requires precise proportions. To make the lubricant yourself, you need to take 50 g of machine oil and dilute it with water. This amount of oil is diluted in 1.5 liters of water. This mixture must be shaken with great force for about 40 minutes. I would like to warn you about experimenting with lubricant proportions. There is a possibility that the lubricant will be too greasy and the entire batch of tiles will be rejected. After a very greasy lubricant, the paving slabs turn out to look like shell rock, due to the fact that depressions form in it. If the lubricant, on the contrary, is not greasy enough, it will be much more difficult to remove the finished tiles from the molds. Lubricant is also used to increase the service life of molds. If you lubricate them well, you can use one tile about 600 times.

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Preparing concrete for making tiles with your own hands

We prepare the dye and plasticizer ourselves. The proportion of the plasticizer should be 0.5% of the total dry solution. The plasticizer cannot be added in dry form; it must be diluted in hot water in a ratio of 200 g/l. Do not dilute the plasticizer in cold water, as it will not dissolve. Stir the plasticizer until completely dissolved; even the slightest sediment will cause craters in the finished product. Next, you need to make a dye solution, its amount should be at least 5% of the total volume of the mixture in dry form. Otherwise, the finished tile will lose color very quickly. The brighter you want to make the product, the higher percentage of dye you need.

The only drawback of the dye is its price, but we can also solve this issue. Pour half colored and half uncolored concrete into the mold - it will be even stronger. The dye must also be diluted beforehand. warm water until completely dissolved in a ratio of 1:3. When preparing a concrete mixture, be careful with water: consistency ready solution with plasticizer and dye should resemble wet sand.

Add water and cement to a concrete mixer, mix until the mixture is homogeneous, then add granite screenings, mix well until smooth. Add pre-diluted plasticizer and dye, stir until a bright, fully colored mass is obtained. Since it is quite simple to do, below is an approximate calculation to produce a large volume of tiles. Based on these numbers, you yourself can calculate how much material you will need to make your own required amount paving slabs for your site.

Consumption of components for manufacturing per 100 sq.m with a product thickness of 5.5 cm:

• cement – ​​3.6 tons;
• granite screenings – 4.5 tons;
• plasticizer S-3 – up to 0.7% by weight of the concrete mixture;
• dye – 5:10% by weight of the concrete mixture.

The only reason that makes you think about this paving method from a negative point of view is the high cost of the material in retail chains. However there is affordable option significant cost reduction. Tiles can be made at home and then their cost will be significantly lower. Therefore, this article will discuss the question of how to make paving slabs at home.

Factory technology

IN industrial scale production of vibro-cast, vibro-pressed and clinker tiles for paving sidewalks is carried out. At the same time, depending on the manufacturing technology, the quality of products varies greatly.

The technology is quite easy to use. It is built on the fact that a cement-based solution is poured into shaped molds and compacted on a special surface by exposure to vibration.

Vibropress.

Such products are rich in color shades and are sold at a low price. However, the strength and frost resistance of such paving slabs is an order of magnitude lower than that of other types.

Vibropressed tiles made using special equipment that compacts the concrete mixture high pressure. Such paving stones are stronger, but also more expensive due to the use of a press and increased energy consumption.

The most best tiles- clinker. Clinker production of paving slabs occurs by firing specially prepared clay in a kiln at a very high temperature. The final product is very durable, frost-resistant and beautiful, while not inferior in durability even to hard natural stone.

But the high energy consumption for the production of paving slabs and the need to use expensive industrial equipment raises the cost of this material several times.

Equipment and supplies for work

In homestead farming conditions, special industrial equipment, of course, is absent, and therefore the technology for making paving slabs at home is based on vibration compaction of concrete. To complete the work you will need the following equipment and supplies:

• small;
• wide container for receiving ready-made concrete;
• sieve for sifting sand;
• or other flat vibrating surface;
• forms for pouring concrete mixture;
• rubber hammer;
• shovels, buckets, spatulas.

In addition, you need a strong, stable rack for drying tile blanks in molds.

Necessary materials

From building materials required:

• cement grade PC500 or PC400;
• washed or river sand, preferably medium fraction;
• gravel fraction no more than 10 mm;
• natural or mineral pigment;
• lubricant for molds.

If the gravel is dirty or contains a lot of dust, it must be washed, since impurities can adversely affect the quality of the products and their color shade.

Organization of the work site

First of all, it is necessary to correctly install the concrete mixer, vibrating table and rack for placing forms with concrete. These are the largest objects and all actions will take place near them.

A concrete mixer, as the main equipment for the production of paving slabs, should be positioned so that there is enough space to place a pile of sand and gravel near it.

You should also leave room for buckets of water or supply watering hose. The best location for the vibrating table is in a straight line between the concrete mixer and the concrete mold storage rack.

The rack can be placed indoors or outdoors, but in a place where it will be reliably protected from direct sunlight. Cement can be stored near the rack.

Molds for production

Manufacturers offer forms of various configurations and sizes, made from different materials. You can buy standard square or rectangular, composed of several elements or monoblock shapes. These can be cups for making each product separately and for simultaneous pouring of several slabs.

If desired, molding equipment will not be difficult. In this case, you can get exclusive products that no one else has. For this purpose, various materials are used - from wood and polystyrene to metal and gypsum.

It is important to remember that tiles made by vibration casting have a reduced strength and frost resistance. That's why important factor When choosing forms, their depth determines the thickness of the future product.

When homemade its thickness must be at least 40 mm for pedestrian paths and sidewalks and at least 60 mm for travel or parking areas passenger car. The movement of freight transport on such tiles is extremely undesirable.

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Manufacturing instructions

The production of paving slabs by vibration casting is carried out in several stages, which include:

1. preparation of concrete mixture;
2. preparing forms before laying concrete;
3. pouring concrete mixture into molds and operating the vibrating table;
4. concrete hardening period;
5. unmolding and storing finished paving stones.

Each stage has its own technological features, some of which may have several versions.

Requirements for concrete mixture

There are certain requirements for materials for making concrete. The sand must be sifted through a sieve to remove particles of clay, earth and other unwanted impurities that reduce the quality of concrete. The gravel must be clean. Otherwise, it must be washed with water. The use of PC300 cement is unacceptable even when added in increased proportions.

In order to increase the strength of the tiles, synthetic fibers (fiber fiber) can be added to the concrete composition. Expensive industrial plasticizers can be replaced with liquid detergent. The pigment dyes used must be resistant to ultraviolet radiation and intended for outdoor use.

Fiber fiber.

According to experts, the ideal ratio of mixture components for making tiles is:

• cement PC500 – 21% or 30 kg;
• gravel or granite screenings - 23% or 32 kg;
• sifted sand - 56% or 75 kg;
• pigment dye - no more than 7% of the mass of concrete or 700 g;
• industrial plasticizer C-3 – 0.7% by weight of the mixture or 50 g;
• water – 5.5% by weight of concrete or 8 liters;
• fiber fiber up to 0.05% by weight of concrete or 60 g.

Since it is almost impossible to maintain such exact proportions at home, the solution is usually prepared based on the following calculation:

• 1 part PC500 cement, 1.5 parts gravel, 3 parts sand;
• 1 part PC400 cement, 1 part gravel, 2.5 parts sand.

Liquid detergent is added as a plasticizer at the rate of 1 glass per batch. Water is added gradually until the mixture becomes homogeneous and the density resembles thick sour cream.

If dry pigment dye is used in the work, it must first be dissolved in water and then added to the concrete in an amount of no more than 1.2 liters per batch.

Initially, dry components are poured into the mixing equipment for the production of paving stones, and after mixing them, water is gradually added. In this case, it is recommended to first fill in half of the required sand and gravel, and then pour out the cement, mix and add the rest. In this case, the cement will not stick to the walls of the mixer.

Solution mixing mode.

Mixing the concrete mixture with added water should not be less than 15 minutes. The finished batch is poured into a trough or other similar container, and from there it is transported or loaded directly into molds.

Lubrication of molds.

Placing ready-mixed concrete into molds

The types of forms and their possible choice or making with your own hands were discussed above. Therefore, the process of filling them and compacting them on a vibrating table will be described here.

In order to make the finished tiles easier to remove after the mold has hardened, it is necessary to carry out pre-treatment. To do this, they are lubricated from the inside with light machine or vegetable oil. In extreme cases, it is permissible to use a thick soap solution.

If you have financial means, you can purchase them in stores. special composition for lubrication. It will provide easier unmolding, but will require additional costs.

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To quickly fill molds, it is recommended to install a low table near the vibrating table. It will be possible to place forms on it and fill it there. This will reduce the amount of cement slurry spilled onto the vibrating work surface.

The filling process can be done in three ways:

1. The concrete mixture, pre-painted throughout the entire volume, is poured into molds in one go, the surface is leveled with a spatula and placed on a vibrating table.
2. Initially, a colored solution is poured into a quarter of the volume, and the rest of the volume is filled with ordinary gray concrete.
3. The colored layer occupies approximately 15-20% of the volume, and between the colored and gray layers a reinforcing mesh or pieces of wire are placed to increase the strength of the products and better connection layers.

The first option will be technologically the simplest, but concrete mixture with a large amount of dye may have reduced strength.

In the second case, pure concrete will act as a solid base, resulting in a stronger tile. In addition, the cost of purchasing dye is reduced. However, you will have to cook two at the same time different solutions– colored and gray, which complicates the production technology.

The third option allows you to get the strongest and beautiful tiles, but it is even more difficult to implement. Ultimately, the choice of technology in this case depends only on you.

Methods for painting tiles

To obtain colored shades on the surface of paving slabs, four different methods are used:

1. The tiles are made of colored concrete throughout the entire volume;
2. Products are made in two layers, where upper layer the tiles are made of colored mortar, and the rest of the mass is made of ordinary gray concrete mixture;
3. Before pouring concrete into molds, their inner surface is coated with a water-based paint;
4. Superficial.

The most stable color in the manufacture of paving slabs can be obtained by using the first two methods, but they are quite expensive from a financial point of view. The fourth option allows you to save money, but the paint on the surface will be easily erased, as a result of which it will have to be repainted periodically.

Forms filled with concrete mixture on a vibrating table.

Placing filled forms on a vibrating platform

After the required number of forms has been filled, they are placed on the surface of the vibrating table. In this case, it is allowed to place the forms one on top of the other, but not more than in 2 rows.

Vibration treatment of paving slabs allows you to displace all the air and efficiently compact the concrete mixture. If during the vibration process there is a strong subsidence of the solution, then you need to add it to the bowls that are not completely filled and level the surface with a spatula.

The strength and frost resistance of products, and, therefore, their durability, directly depend on the quality of compaction of the concrete mixture. Therefore, the vibration treatment process must continue for the required time. The exact duration depends on the oscillation frequency and engine power and is determined experimentally (on average it is 40-120 seconds).

Homemade vibrating table.

Concrete hardening process

After processing on the vibrating table, the completed forms must be transferred to a storage rack. The shelves of the rack must be able to withstand a large weight load, and the rack itself must be in the shade, excluding direct sunlight from hitting the surface.

The process of initial setting of concrete during the manufacture of paving slabs occurs in 12-18 hours, but complete hardening will end only after 72-96 hours, depending on the temperature and humidity. Only after this can you begin to remove products from the molds and store them.

Unmolding and further storage of finished products

Unmolding.

The process of removing finished products from molds after the concrete has hardened is called demolding. It must be done carefully, taking care not to damage the slabs and to preserve the possibility of reusing the molds.

If the internal surfaces of the molds have been treated before pouring the concrete, then unmolding will not be so difficult, especially if soft models are used.

If complications occur, treatment can be recommended outside forms with hot water. Plastic or silicone materials will expand from the hot water and release the tiles. During unmolding, it is allowed to tap the molds and tiles with a rubber mallet.

The removed tiles are stored on pallets, observing the dressing between the individual products when laying. The height of the stack on a pallet should not exceed 1.2 meters. This condition allows you to protect the tiles of the lower rows from destruction due to weight load.

Conclusion

As you can see, it is quite possible to make paving slabs with your own hands, since this technological process is not very complicated and does not require special knowledge from the performer.

Expense for self-production tiles

True for successful work you need to have equipment for the production of paving slabs such as a concrete mixer and a vibrating table, but you can buy, rent or make them yourself. The most important thing to obtain a high-quality result is strict adherence to technology and the use of high-quality raw materials.

Self-production of paving slabs gives the developer the following advantages:

• financial costs for landscaping a personal plot are reduced;
• it becomes possible to choose any shape and color of the material;
• you can prepare any amount of paving material;
• independent quality control of manufactured materials.

By laying homemade vibro-cast tiles, each owner can fully demonstrate their creative abilities and arrange the site according to their taste and desire.

Good afternoon, dear users of the site rems-info.ru. Today’s article will talk about how to make concrete paving slabs with your own hands, at home, using a small set of special equipment. In fact, having studied the technology that will be described, you will be able to produce a concrete product of any shape and for any purpose.

So, let's begin.

From special equipment for the manufacture of paving slabs we will need:

• Vibrating table
• Concrete mixer
• Plastic or silicone molds
• A tub with a boiler lined with insulation.

You will also need:

1. Buckets
2. Shovel
3. Master OK
4. Brush
5. Grease container
6. Plasticizer container
7. Cloth rag.

Required materials:

• Sand
• Cement
• Plasticizer
• Lubrication.

Now a little more about everything

A concrete mixer will be needed to mix the solution. This can be done in another way. The first is to use a drill with a mixer attachment. The second option is to use the strength of your muscles to thoroughly mix the solution using a shovel. The disadvantages of the two described methods are mostly poor kneading and slow progress of work. In addition, labor costs increase.
Silicone or plastic molds will help us create the desired product. You just need to pour concrete into them.

Forms for concrete products are sold in specialized stores. Using silicone, you can create the mold yourself. To do this, it is enough to coat the finished product with silicone and subsequently make copies of it. We will describe exactly how this is done in another separate article. Follow site updates!

In order for the solution in the mold to be evenly distributed over its entire surface and fill all the depressions and bulges, the mold should be thoroughly vibrated. This is exactly what a vibrating table is used for. It has a durable metal frame. A vibration motor is attached to this frame. A second metal frame is attached to the top side of the engine, which is suspended from the first at the base. The suspension is organized using hooks and rubber rings. The work table is directly attached to this suspended frame. When the vibration motor operates, the suspended frame together with the table begins to shake violently. Without a vibrating table, your concrete products will be of poor quality or will fall apart right in your hands! There is little that can replace such a table. Regular shaking of hands is ineffective!

Materials for making paving slabs with your own hands

The description says: you will need water, sand, cement. I think everyone understands that these ingredients are the main components of the concrete mixture. However, there is also a plasticizer. Why is it needed?

This additive accelerates the rate of hardening of concrete. It becomes stronger and more flexible. Its presence in the concrete mixture intended for the manufacture of paving slabs, etc. especially relevant! As for lubrication: it is necessary to make it easier for the concrete product to be removed from the mold after hardening. If you do not use lubricating components, your tile will either be very difficult to remove or will generally become unusable during removal from the mold due to splitting.

It is necessary to rub the molds with grease before pouring. In this case, it is important to wipe the entire surface with a cloth rag. If this is not done, excess lubricant can cause a large number of bubbles on the surface of the manufactured paving slabs. The lubricant should lie in a very thin layer and be sure to spread evenly!

We won’t say much about the rest of the equipment: buckets and a shovel for mixing the solution; trowel for pouring it; a brush, a cloth rag and a container for lubricant will be needed to apply the above-mentioned product; the plasticizer container will allow you to more accurately determine the required amount of additive.

Technology for making paving slabs at home

Rub the mold with grease and wipe it with a rag. Place it on a vibrating table. Pour the concrete mixture into it, with a pre-added plasticizer. The ratio of sand and cement is 1:2. Turn on the vibration table. Let the forms “shake” for about 3 minutes. After filling the mold, set it out to dry. After approximately 16 hours, at normal warm dry environment, the product can be removed from the molds. A tub filled with water will help speed up the removal process.

This tub should be covered with insulation, such as polystyrene foam. Thanks to this, the water in the tub will not cool down quickly. You can heat water with a simple household boiler. Of course, it is best to buy a boiler that is more powerful. For convenience, a metal mesh can be placed at the bottom of the tub.

To avoid electric shock while working, be sure to ground!!!

After heating the mold, holding it in hot water for about 5 minutes, carefully remove the product from it. Then take it to dry. Before use, the finished block of paving slabs should lie for about a month in a dry, unshaded place. During this time, it will gain strength and will be ready to make your path or garage entrance not just convenient, but also beautiful and practical.
Using this technology, you are able to make any concrete product. The main thing is to have forms.

For those who like experimenting, I’ll say right away: “You won’t be able to replace concrete with a gypsum mixture and achieve the same result using this technology!”

The advantages of the technology are that for less money you get tiles that are many times superior to what factories offer us. Since on an industrial scale, paving slabs are mainly made using dry pressing technology. As a result, the appearance of such tiles cannot be called beautiful. Well, in the end, the most important plus is your own pride, which you will definitely experience if you do everything yourself.

Hand-made paving slabs.

To get a visual representation, we present to your attention a short video commentary “Making paving slabs with your own hands.”

Good luck to you in all your endeavors!

Paving slabs – beautiful material, with which you can refine country cottage area. But today not everyone can afford to buy quality tiles, and buy the most cheap option and not at all rational.

DIY paving slabs

But there is a way out - make paving slabs at the dacha with your own hands. To do this, of course, you will have to work hard, but the result will definitely please you. What is needed for this, and what materials will be needed for this?

DIY paving slabs at the dacha

How to make paving slabs - where to start?

Making paving slabs is a rather long, exhausting, but also fascinating process. As a result, you can get exclusive, beautiful and original products that will become a real decoration of your territory. It is worth noting that such tiles are not suitable for covering parking lots or places where heavy special equipment is installed, but they help to design pedestrian paths in the garden, near the house or in the vegetable garden.

Read also: DIY garden paths at low cost

If you use the concrete mixture correctly and strictly adhere to manufacturing technology, then the strength and durability of the products is guaranteed.

What is needed to build tiles? Let's figure it out.

1. Materials. To make paving slabs at your dacha with your own hands, you need to stock up on cement. It is better to use the M 500 brand, which is distinguished by its quality and reliability. You will also need sand and water. How much will you need? Depends on the number of tiles, so calculations are carried out on an individual basis. Experts advise using plasticizers - substances that hold the composition together, making it as hard as possible.
2. Forms for filling. Such forms can be purchased at any specialized store. affordable price. It is better to take 20 pieces at once so that the manufacturing process does not drag on for months.
3. Tool. You will need a hammer drill with a mixer attachment. If you have a concrete mixer, the matter is much easier, especially if we're talking about about a large number of tiles.

Do-it-yourself paving slabs for the dacha - how to mix the mortar?

To prepare a good solution, it is important to mix all the ingredients gradually. First, sand and cement are mixed in equal proportions, and then water is added. To avoid the formation of lumps, the stirring process cannot be stopped. If you overdo it with water, the quality and strength of the solution will drop sharply, so it is recommended to add water-repellent additives and reinforcing fiber.

How to paint tiles a different color? For this, inorganic pigments are used, which can also be purchased at any store. The amount of paint is selected by testing. First, a small amount of pigment is poured in and its dose is gradually increased. When the color becomes saturated and suits your taste preferences, then you can stop. Once the composition is ready, it can be poured into molds. How to do it?

Baking pans, like concrete pans, need to be lubricated. The inner surface is treated with any (machine, emulsol, etc.) oil. This will allow the composition to quickly spread over the surface, acquiring the correct features. There are always bubbles in the solution that need to be removed. This is done using a vibrating table. If it is not possible to purchase such equipment, then you can use a simple method that many gardeners use: place the forms with the solution on the shelves, which you lightly tap on with a mallet. Excess air will come out instantly, and the surface of the product will be smooth.

For the first three days, the solution is stored under plastic wrap and watered. Then open it and leave it to dry. dark place for approximately 3 weeks. If the weather is very hot, the tiles will be ready even faster. All that remains is to free it from the molds and use it in construction.

We hope that our advice on how to make paving slabs at your dacha with your own hands will help transform your dacha plot with beautiful paths.

See also video: DIY garden path paving slabs relax effect

Paths and platforms made of paving slabs look beautiful. Concrete tiles can be poured yourself using plastic molds. There is always a place for such tiles on a plot or cottage. Do-it-yourself paving slabs are laid as a blind area around your garden house or bathhouse. She looks great! This instruction tells you how to make paving slabs yourself.

It all starts with a tile mold, which can be purchased at specialty hardware stores. It is plastic, intended for repeated use and is inexpensive - 60-70 rubles apiece. Next you see the most popular shapes, measuring 30 by 30 cm and 3 cm deep.

Photo 1. Popular forms for pouring paving slabs.

The bottom of the form is a pattern imitating stone, parquet or other texture. You can choose any one you like. For garden path You can lay two such tiles in width, and borders are often used for framing.

Photo 2. Form for the border.

The plastic is quite durable and allows the mold to be used many times.

Calculation of mortar for pouring paving slabs

So, having acquired the forms, you can calculate the composition of the concrete for pouring them. Practice has shown that the ratio of cement to the rest of the solution is better to take one to three. We use grade 500 cement. It is important that it is fresh, no more than 2 months from the date of production. Let's take one part of it. Typically 1 tile requires 1 kg of cement. Next, add 3 parts of coarse sand to the solution. To improve the strength of concrete, some craftsmen use the following formula:

• 1 part cement
• 2 parts sand
• 1 part fine gravel or crushed stone

The solution is prepared with the addition of water; it is better to use a concrete mixer for mass production. When adding water, it is advisable not to make the solution too thin or thick. After stirring, it should resemble thick sour cream. Additionally, you can use concrete dyes and so-called plasticizers - substances that improve plasticity and reduce cement consumption. Very little is required; they are mixed in a common solution. In order for concrete to be better separated from plastic forms, it is recommended to use special oils that lubricate the forms from the inside. However, in practice, people successfully use regular training.

The most important thing here is to evenly coat all the inner sides of the mold with a brush or swab, then the finished tile will be without special effort will jump out of it. It is necessary to lubricate the forms before the concrete solution is prepared and pouring begins. Forms for pouring are placed on a flat table, which is also called a vibrating table.

Important point: Before pouring the forms with concrete, it is necessary to make sure using a level that our table is installed strictly horizontally. Then there will be no problems with distortion of the molds and pouring out of the solution during vibration.

DIY tiles video

When the solution is ready, you need to fill all the forms sequentially.

Having placed the entire solution inside the molds, distribute it evenly and, if necessary, add or remove excess. There is no need to rush; it is better to check the filling of the corners with a small trowel and make sure there are no voids. Now everything is ready to turn on the vibrating table, or rather, an electric motor with an eccentric mounted at the bottom.

Under the influence of vibration, the solution is compacted, which is very important for outdoor tiles. Air bubbles come to the surface and laitance appears on top. Usually a few minutes are enough to achieve this effect. The merit of this is the vibrating table, since without it we would have to tap each shape to achieve the desired effect.

Schemes of vibrating tables

Let's look at the diagram of a classic vibrating table.

Landscaping is one of the numerous tasks, which appear when developing a piece of land, be it a small summer cottage or a large area around the cottage. The main and irreplaceable elements of the landscape in this case are platforms and paths made by laying paving slabs.

Today the market is saturated with a wide variety of paving stones different sizes, shapes and shades - this allows you to turn a simple path into an exquisite work of art. In addition, the technology for making paving stones with your own hands is quite simple, which makes it possible to produce it without any problems.

Benefits of paving stones

1. Compared to concrete or asphalt pavement, puddles do not form on a paved surface.

2. if it is necessary to install equipment or lay communications, cover can be easily removed and re-installed without disturbing the integrity of the paving stones.

paving stones, unlike asphalt, when heated, do not emit harmful substances.

4. The masonry is incomparably more attractive if it is laid out carefully and correctly. Making paving stones with your own hands

Do-it-yourself paving stones are a real way to improve a site and are not particularly difficult. This is an interesting and profitable process, because how to make paving stones with your own hands is not at all a secret. The materials are available, you just need the desire to master this exciting process.

Required materials and tools

1. shovel;
2. solution container;
3. wide table;
4. Master OK;
5. molds for paving stones;
6. clean sand;
7. cement grade 500;
8. dry dye (pigment);
9. plasticizer

Making paving stones with your own hands with a large volume of production will require the use of a vibrating table and a concrete mixer. Industrial versions of these devices are relatively expensive, but it is possible to make them yourself.

Forms for paving stones

In solving the question: how to make paving stones with your own hands, you cannot do without pouring forms. You can make them yourself or purchase them, because their variety is quite large.

1. Silicone molds. They can be with a matte or glossy surface; they do not require additional accessories in the form of formwork.

DIY paving slabs video

Designed for pouring paving stones for 500 cycles.

2. Plastic molds. They are produced for 250 pouring cycles and have a variety of configurations and reliefs.

3. Polyurethane forms. Designed for 80-100 cycles, however, they make it possible to cast surfaces with fine relief and details.

4. Homemade forms. Often such forms are made from boards, scraps metal pipes, various plastic containers and so on.

Paving stone manufacturing technology

After all materials and tools have been prepared, you can begin manufacturing. Do-it-yourself paving stones technology looks like this:

1. Getting ready cement mortar. In dry form, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed in a ratio of 3 to 1.

2. If your path is a different color, not gray, then dry dye of the appropriate shade is dissolved in water in a separate container and mixed.

3. A plasticizer is added there - about 10 ml per 1 kg of cement, after which this liquid solution is poured into the dry mixture.

4. The solution is mixed to a viscous consistency; if necessary, clean water is added.

5. Using a level, the table is set strictly horizontally. The molds are laid out on the table, greased from the inside and the solution is laid out in them.

6. The vibrating table is turned on for a few minutes, or a mallet is used to create vibration on a regular table. As a result, the solution should be evenly distributed among the molds.

7. The forms are left to harden for a day.

8. The stones are carefully removed from the molds so that the edges and corners are not damaged.

9. Finished products are laid out on a flat surface to dry for 7-10 days under a canopy. We recommend spraying the paving stones with water (in small drops) to avoid cracks.

10. After these days, the DIY paving stones will change color - this means that the process has been completed successfully.

They not only look attractive, but also increase the comfort of movement. There are several ways to lay paving slabs with your own hands. We will tell you about each of them in detail. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to buy tiles in a store - you can also make them yourself.

Types of materials for covering paths and sidewalks

This type of coating first appeared in the 19th century in Holland. It began to be used due to the lack of natural stone. It turned out that it looks no less decorative, and in terms of strength it is not so inferior to it. Subsequently, concrete and then tiles made of other materials appeared in other countries.

Today it has many varieties and is made from:

• concrete: mixtures of cement, filler (usually sand) and water; able to withstand heavy loads, but less decorative than other types
• clinker made of baked clay: more expensive material with a minimum number of pores, obtained by thermal firing; unlike concrete, it is almost insensitive to moisture and temperature changes and has great strength; does not wear out or lose color
• crumb rubber, obtained during tire recycling: anti-slip, bright, attractive products are often used on playgrounds, areas around swimming pools, and sports centers
• paving stones: small-sized products made of processed natural stone - granite, marble, basalt, labradorite; have the highest strength
• wooden blocks and saw cuts, covered with an anti-slip layer and impregnated with antifungal compounds, for example, heated drying oil
• polymer (plastic): inexpensive material, quickly fades in the sun and has increased abrasion; for anti-slip protection, they are made with corrugated

In addition to rectangular and square, tiles for paving paths can have other, more complex shapes, for example, in the form of a wide wave, scales, hexagons, polygons and even clover leaves. One set may contain products of several configurations at once, from which a drawing is subsequently laid out.

The greatest demand is for tiles measuring 200-400 mm by 140-250 mm. Standard thickness 30-80 mm. The thinnest ones are used only for laying on paths with low traffic, including in private households. Medium-thick products are used to decorate city squares and sidewalks. The thickest tiles are used in parking lots and roads.

Methods for making concrete tiles

There are only three main methods for its manufacture:

1 Vibration pressing: tiles are made in steel molds from a mixture of dry materials with the addition of a small amount of water; a punch (similar to a piston in a cylinder) additionally presses on the vibrating matrix, compacting the solution; the products are very durable, but since the rigid solution is not able to fill all the bends of the form, it is produced only in the form of rectangles or squares.

2 Hyperpressing: production uses only pressure without vibration on one- or two-sided presses; the strength of tiles made by this method is higher than those obtained by vibration pressing; its edges are compressed so much that the edges appear razor-sharp.

3 Vibrocasting: liquid concrete mixture is poured into a mold and placed on a vibrating table; after compaction, cement laitance appears on the surface - a suspension of cement and water; Then the products harden and gain strength within 24 hours (this is exactly how paving slabs are made).

When calculating the required quantity, keep in mind that on winding paths and intersections there will be a lot of trimming, which means more tiles will be needed. Trimming in each row will also be required when laying diagonally.

Types of installation

Paving slabs are laid in two ways:

• dry on a sand bed
• wet onto cement mortar

Laying on cement is not a cheap pleasure. But the surface turns out to be highly durable; even a truck can easily drive over it. In private households, using the dry method is sufficient. We will describe the process of laying dry and with cement mortar in detail in the following sections of the article.

Is it necessary to use a drainage system?

If water stagnates on the paths, people walking along them will have a sad time - the likelihood of injury will be very high. Plus, when making a blind area from paving slabs, water will flow from the surfaces adjacent to the buildings under the foundation. Therefore, paths are always made with a slope of 1-2 °. Moreover, it must be done towards the places where water is drained - drainage.

Drainage pipes are installed every 2-3 m across the path. Water should move through them by gravity, so installation should be done at a slope of 2-3 degrees. You can also use special drains. Essentially this is special kind tiles in the form of gutters.

If the area is dry, a complex system There is no need for drains - just dig small trenches to drain water and fill them with gravel or crushed stone, and cover them with soil on top. Swampy soils will require the installation of complex drainage systems. Special attention attention should be paid to drainage of rainwater when laying tiles near the blind areas of buildings.

How to make a mold?

Wood is most often used for forms (formwork) of paving slabs. Metal products are more durable - removing tiles from them and cleaning the mold from frozen mortar is much easier. It is also possible to use gypsum - however, this inexpensive material is fragile, and such formwork will not last long.

Products complex shapes It's easier to buy in a store. Plastic or rubber products are easy to use, but they are difficult to make at home. It is better to buy polyurethane formwork - silicone is fragile and will not last long.

Wooden molds are made collapsible. It is more convenient to use a mold measuring 50x50 cm, into which you can pour 4 tiles at once. Her standard height 6-7 cm.

All formwork elements must be docked tightly to each other. Otherwise, when liquid leaks out of the solution, the strength of the tiles will decrease. The location of the parts is verified by the building level. You can strengthen the formwork with metal corners.

TO metal forms handles can be welded on the sides. It will be easier to transfer finished products into them. To produce small quantities of tiles, molds can be made from tin. To do this, it is cut to size, adding a small allowance to it, and wrapped around wooden formwork. Adjust the tin sheets with a hammer. You should not pay attention to unevenness and bulges. They will only give the tile an original pattern and make it less slippery. It is worth aligning the shape only on the sides - otherwise it will be difficult to dock the tiles to each other.

Gypsum products are poured into a pre-prepared wooden frame which is lubricated with oil. Filling is done in several layers. To strengthen the structure, it is additionally reinforced with wire. A day later, after complete drying, the formwork is lowered into water, and then disassembled and the finished products are pulled out.

To make a small number of paving slabs, you can use improvised means. You can replace molds with fragments plastic bottles, pieces of pipes, containers for storing food, glass containers, stands for flower pots, cardboard packages, etc.

Interesting tiles are obtained by using silicone molds with convex patterns intended for baking confectionery products.

So that the products do not have to be cut in the future, you can make corner shapes. This will make the work much faster and easier.

Homemade vibration drive

You can take a conventional engine as a basis, for example, from washing machine. But it will need to be modernized by adding an eccentric unit with an asymmetrically located axis. You can use any other engine with a power of 0.5-0.9 kW, for example, from a pumping station.

To create engine imbalance and vibration, you just need to shift the axis of rotation. To do this, 2 metal plates with an offset axis are attached to the shaft key.

The amplitude of movement will need to be adjusted. To do this, prepare one hole in one of the pancakes, and 3-4 holes in the second (see photo), through which they are connected to each other using a 2x6 cm metal strip and bolts.

First, a distance of 38.5 mm is made between the holes of the pancakes. To measure the vibration amplitude, a pencil is attached to the platform with tape and draws a curve. If the amplitude is insufficient, the distance between the pancakes is increased. Please note that the vibration must be uniform, otherwise the cement mixture will be compressed jerkily and delaminate.

Making a vibrating table

Homemade vibration table

If you take cement mortar and just pour it into a mold and then dry it, you won't get much quality products. When making paving slabs without a vibrating table, due to their high porosity, the products will crack much faster under the influence of moisture and temperature changes.

You can remove air gaps between the layers of cement and compact the solution using special vibrating equipment - a vibrating table. It can be of two types:

• molding: for compacting mortar in tiles
• unmolding: used to remove (knock out) products from molds

Outwardly they are indistinguishable. The only difference is that the molding products have a nozzle with holes on which the mold is attached. The direction of vibration of the forming vibrating table should only be horizontal.

The vibrating table should consist of the following parts:

• steel movable table
• control panels
• an engine with an unbalance (asymmetrically located axis); We talked about the method of making it a little higher

So, the process of manufacturing a vibrating table for pressing paving slabs, step by step:

1. Its standard dimensions are 1x2 m. You can make it a little smaller than 0.8x1.6 m. Dimensions that are too large are undesirable - due to overload, the engine can quickly fail.
2. The height is selected individually depending on the person’s height. On average, together with the spring-loaded platform, it is 0.9 m.
3. The table frame is welded from metal corners or round pipe. It is much easier to install springs on pipes.
4. To make spring seats, pipe sections are welded to the side posts of the frame. Their dimensions should be such that the springs can fit into them in 2-4 turns. TO metal corners The springs can simply be welded.
5. Sometimes the springs are replaced with belt loops, with which the top plate is attached. Such loops are suspended on guides welded to the corners of the structure. However, this design is less reliable.
6. To strengthen it, you can weld crossbars - stiffening ribs - to the supports.
7. The platform cover is removable.
8. The vibration platform is installed on the frame using springs.
9. The vibrator (motor) is attached with clamps to the bottom of the plate or installed first on a metal platform, and then secured with countersunk screws.
10. Secure the structure by grounding the vibration table. It is also advisable to install an RCD switch in front of the power cord.
11. To provide vibration, the motor is connected to a shaft attached to the bottom of the table via an eccentric bearing.
12. To install the socket and switch, it is necessary to weld a metal plate to one of the side parts of the frame.
13. After completing the tile production work, the vibrating platform can be used as a tabletop for a circular machine.

It is better to make the table cover removable. In this case, it can be used as a stretcher for moving finished products.

If you decide not to bother making a vibrating table, you can simply buy it. The cost of such equipment varies from 12 to 55 thousand rubles.

A concrete mixer will be needed if you need to make a large number of tiles

To make tiles you will need:

• casting mold: you can make them yourself from wood, metal, plaster
• vibrating table, which ensures thorough compaction and gradual compaction of concrete, due to which it becomes more dense and homogeneous
• for a large number of products, it is better to purchase or rent a concrete mixer: the solution in it will be mixed more evenly, and the products will be of higher quality; if you need only a few tiles, you can prepare the solution in a regular old bathtub or any other large container
• pallets for storing and drying products: placing them directly on bare ground is not recommended

It is better to take M500 cement. The M400 brand, which is recommended by some experts, is still not worth using. After all, if you adhere to the standards once adopted in the USSR, today the majority of “commercial” M400 cement corresponds in quality to the M300 brand.

Sand must be taken dry and carefully sifted. It should not contain admixtures of clay, grass, leaves and stones. Otherwise it will affect the quality of the tiles.

Use only clean water. Stagnant, foul-smelling liquid from irrigation barrels mixed with debris will not work.

Production of paving slabs in stages

So, step-by-step instructions for making paving slabs:

1. When using M500 cement, it is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:3. This must be done dry. This way the mixture will mix more evenly. Water is added later.
2. Buy cement only from trusted manufacturers. If the products begin to crumble, most likely this is not a violation of technology, but bad cement. If you doubt its quality, purchase a small quantity first and make several test pieces from it.
3. Pay attention to the color of the cement. It should not be too dark or have a swampy tint. Standard cement only has gray shade. It also shouldn't be lumpy. This means that the storage was carried out at high humidity or its shelf life has already expired.
4. To increase the strength of products, add a plasticizer and a waterproofing additive to the solution. You can further strengthen the tiles using a small amount of fiberglass.
5. Sometimes crushed stone of small fractions is added to the solution (the proportions in this case will be 1:3:1). But most experts agree that this reduces the strength of the products.
6. Make the consistency of the solution dough-like - it should not be too liquid and not slide off the trowel. It is difficult to calculate the exact amount of water - because the moisture content of sand and cement varies. Therefore, the consistency will have to be selected experimentally.
7. Before pouring the solution into the mold, it must be lubricated. For these purposes, you can use any vegetable oil or soap solutions. There are also special lubricants that can be purchased at hardware stores. The grinding is used with caution - it leaves dark spots on the surface of the track.
8. After filling the mold with the solution, it is necessary to pierce it so that there are no voids left in it. To get rid of them, you can also shake the mold slightly by hand. There is no point in smoothing the top perfectly - this side will be adjacent to the ground. If there is unevenness, the tile will only adhere better to the surface when laid.
9. When making large products (including borders), it is advisable to strengthen them with reinforcement - small pieces of metal or metal mesh. For small items you can use pieces of wire. In this case, they will be stronger and last longer.
10. The duration of continuous vibration depends on the mass and size of the products. On average it is 1.5-2 minutes.
11. To ensure that the products are equal in thickness (and this is the main problem for molders, when the tiles at one end are thinner than at the other), be sure to unroll the mold while vibrating.
12. The tiles are removed from the molds only after the solution has hardened in a day.
13. The finished forms are stacked. There should be no more than 15 pieces in each row. Before storage, each product is wrapped in plastic film. The tile wrapped in this way will “steam” and gain strength. You can fold it onto stainless steel sheets - it will be easier to remove the products laid while still half-baked.
14. Dry the tiles under a canopy so that they are not exposed to direct sunlight.
15. It will be possible to work with it and lay it only after a month, when the concrete has fully gained strength.
16. Borders are also made in a similar way. Making molds of suitable sizes for them will not be difficult.

If the tile does not release well from the mold, immerse it in a container of hot water for a while.

Creating a project garden design garden plot, you always want to make it original and unique. Paved paths are one of the main elements country house- can be made from different material(door cut, gravel, a natural stone). However, it is paving slabs that have gained the greatest popularity due to their presentable appearance and wide functionality and high quality material.

You can purchase design elements in a store, but it is much more profitable to make paving slabs yourself.

Do-it-yourself paving slabs: advantages

Making paving slabs yourself is very difficult - it is a labor-intensive process that takes quite a lot of time. At the same time, making them is quite fun. As a result, you get exclusive tiles laid into a single composition for the garden path.

Another great advantage of DIY tiles is the low cost of the method. Molding paving slabs with your own hands is several times cheaper than buying ready-made material.

It is almost certain that DIY tiles will not be able to withstand the load of sites designed to accommodate heavy vehicles and buildings. But for garden paths fits better Total. Subject to proper technique at all stages of production and cooking concrete mortar The tile will serve you for quite a long time.

You can try to “play” with shades and get original and unique combinations.

How to make garden paving slabs with your own hands

• Material selection

For the production of paving slabs in the country or country house you need:

• Dry cement mixture
• Sand
• Water

Mixing the solution in the required proportions is carried out according to the instructions attached to the cement. For the durability of the tiles, use cement with an M500 marker, as the most durable material.

Water and sand should not contain impurities. Although the inclusion of small pebbles in the sand is acceptable. From them, your product will acquire its original texture, and the quality of the mixture will not suffer.

Use plasticizers to strengthen paving slabs and resist temperature changes.

To create a unique tile shape, purchase silicone molds from a specialized store. They are designed for approximately two hundred fills. To speed up the process, it is better to purchase several forms.

A budget option for molds is plastic food storage containers. They are flexible and plastic and are quite suitable for making tiles for the site yourself. Using containers you can get tiles in the form of bricks

• How to prepare the solution

Mixing the solution can be done by hand or using a screwdriver with a mixer attachment. For the manufacture of large number It’s better to stock up on a concrete mixer for tiles.

To obtain a homogeneous mixture, sand must be poured into a rotating concrete mixer, followed by cement. As a rule, cement and sand are mixed in proportions 1:3 respectively.

Water should be added gradually, continuously stirring the entire mixture. Do not overdo it - too much water will cause a decrease in the quality of the finished concrete. To provide for this process, lyophobic additives and a reinforcing mixture are added to the solution.

The final consistency of the solution should resemble dough - be slightly liquid, but not run off the trowel.

The mixture is painted using special coloring pigments that will retain their color in any weather and atmospheric conditions. Start adding dye to the concrete mixer ( 30-60 grams). Gradually increase the proportion. The concrete will become uniform in color after 5-10 minutes. The finished solution should not have lumps

• How to pour concrete into a mold yourself

Before pouring the solution into the mold, you should first treat its inner surface with any oily substance. Even used waste is suitable for these purposes. machine oil. Thanks to this, you can easily separate ready-made tiles from the form.

It is possible to extend the life of paving slabs by adding metal mesh or wire inside the solution. First, pour a small amount of the mixture into the mold, place it in metal carcass, then add the remaining volume of concrete to the edge of the mold.

To remove air bubbles from the mixture in the mold, use vibration. It is convenient to use a vibrating table in this case. But a regular shelf or plywood rack will also work. Tap the trowel handle on the shelf several times - vibration is created

• How to dry tiles correctly

Cover the filled forms with plastic and leave for two to three days. During this period, try to maintain the necessary humidity - moisten the dried concrete over time a small amount water.

The sun's rays should not fall on the drying solution in the molds

• Stripping

In order to separate the tiles from the mold, it is necessary to immerse the frozen mixture in hot water and keep it there for at least 10 minutes. The mold will move away from the stove on its own.

If the casting was done “on site” and the mold does not come off, do not try to heat the joint with a hairdryer. This will only make the grip stronger. In this case, you need to turn the mold over and shake out the tiles from it. Next, we place each of them in their places. If a chip occurs, then fix this place a little later.

Brine will help to completely wash the mold afterwards, followed by rinsing the frame with water.

• Aging of paving slabs

Concrete paving slabs cannot be used immediately - at this moment they are still quite fragile and can break at the edges. Concrete becomes strong after 5-7 days.

Lay the finished tiles under a canopy on fresh air and leave to dry for a week. If the paving slabs were installed on site, be sure to make a canopy of plastic film over them.

DIY paving slabs: video

For a better understanding of the tile manufacturing process, watch a video with a detailed description of all stages of the work.

Variety of paving slabs

Luminous tiles are very convenient - they will allow you to avoid unpleasant situations associated with moving along the path in the dark.

Rubber tiles are used for paving playgrounds and the edges of swimming pools.

Plastic paving slabs are also very popular. They are much cheaper and stronger than cement, and also do not harm the environment. However, plastic is susceptible to fading when exposed to direct sunlight, and also “creeps” over the ground over time.