18426 0 0

How to independently arrange the passage of a pipe through the roof in a private house or bathhouse

During the construction of any house, there always comes a time when it is necessary to remove the stove or ventilation pipes through the roof; there is no way around it. Some owners do not attach much importance to this process; however, mistakes made during the arrangement of the docking station can lead to serious negative consequences. In this material I will tell you how to independently remove pipes through the attic floor and different types of roofs.

What can result from poor-quality installation?

In most cases, stove makers and ventilation equipment specialists are engaged exclusively in the installation of their sector. Pipe passages through the wall, interfloor covering and they do not touch the roof. People don’t want to hire a professional and take on the job themselves. As a result, after a short period of time a whole bunch of problems may “pop up”.

When you hire a specialist, it is better to immediately discuss the moment of arranging transitions through structures.
Sometimes it’s easier to pay a little more to an experienced person than to then rack your brains over how to do it all correctly and beautifully with your own hands.

• The materials from which chimneys are made are quite durable; they can easily withstand temperature changes, but these materials are often not designed for constant contact with moisture. For example, an asbestos-cement pipe, saturated with moisture, will simply begin to crumble and after a couple of seasons it will look as if mice had eaten it;
• Again due to high humidity, this sector will be intensively overgrown with soot from the inside therefore, you will have to clean the chimney much more often;
• But that's not the worst part. In most cases, the roof is now insulated with basalt or glass wool. Once such insulation gets wet, firstly, it becomes useless, and secondly, it shrinks and is no longer restored. There is no point in drying cotton wool, you just need to change it;
• Do not forget that almost all roofs are made on the basis wooden frame . Whatever you impregnate the wood with, if the structures are constantly in a damp environment, then sooner or later they will begin to rot. Water wears away stones, let alone wood;

• There is one more point, I will explain it with an example. One of my friends finished building a house in the fall and, since the weather had already begun to noticeably deteriorate, he sealed the passage through the roof of the chimney at random, in the hope that everything would be fixed in the spring.

Imagine what his surprise was when, on New Year's holidays, the chimney passage through the ceiling, which was decorated in a pompous and very expensive Baroque style, became covered with red wet spots and the stucco began to fall off. And all this happened because the roof joint was not airtight enough.

After the stove was flooded, the snow around the pipe melted, water flowed through the pipe and completely ruined luxurious interior, the cost of which was tens of times higher than the services of the most expensive roofer.

Where is the best place to install pipes?

Of course, when the house was built a long time ago and you are just repairing the roof, it is no longer possible to change anything. But at the design stage, you have the opportunity to choose the optimal location for the pipe outlet.

Any stove maker will tell you that the passage unit is best mounted in a ridge. But this is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, snow or rain will never leak under the pipe, plus the chimney located above the ridge provides optimal draft. On the other hand, you will have to tinker a lot with arranging the rafter system, because breaking a horizontal ridge beam is quite a complicated matter.

Minimum distance from the chimney to the rafters or load-bearing beams according to SNiP 41-03-01-2003 it should be 140 – 250 mm.

• It is usually recommended to move the chimney slightly to one side relative to the ridge. Moreover, if the pipe is located at a distance of up to one and a half meters from the ridge, then it should rise above it to a height of 50 cm;
• If the distance from the ridge to the passage unit fluctuates around 1.5 - 3 m, then the height of the pipe can be made flush with the ridge;
• When the roof is pitched or the distance from the ridge beam to the passage unit is more than 3 m, it is allowed to install the top point of the pipe along a line passing at an angle of 10º relative to the horizon along the ridge. To make it easier for you to understand, a diagram is presented below.

The most undesirable place for installing chimneys and ventilation pipes is their location in the “valley”. For those who don’t know, it’s called enodova internal corner, which is formed by connecting two roof slopes. This does not threaten ordinary classical structures; this arrangement can be found on multi-level roofs with a complex configuration.

If you are faced with a case where your chimney pipe passage through the roof is in the “valley”, then it is better to try to make an extra bend and move the pipe half a meter to the side.

For the so-called sandwich structures, from which most chimneys for boilers and sauna stoves are now made, this will not be difficult. Otherwise, water will constantly attack your connecting node from three sides and sooner or later a leak will occur.

Self-installation of passages through the roof or ceiling

If previously roofs were mostly covered with slate, now it is increasingly being replaced by metal tiles and other modern roofing materials. Plus, in addition to the passage through the roof, you also need to take care of the transitions through the ceiling.

Elastic transition block as the easiest way out

A good half of modern chimneys and almost all ventilation outlets are now made round. It is precisely for such designs that elastic adapters are produced.

This adapter is a multi-stage funnel with a square or round base. A heat-resistant, elastic polymer is used as the main material.

Each stage on the funnel corresponds to one of the running diameters of the chimney. In order for the pipe to fit tightly, you only need to cut the adapter with scissors to the level you need.

Hermetically sealed fixation of the soft polymer base (flange) to the roof itself is carried out with metal pins and bolts. Such a flange can take any shape, so it easily bends around the complex topography of roofing coverings.

The price for such a product is quite reasonable, plus the installation instructions, in my opinion, are more than simple. As I said, first you need to cut the cone to required diameter. After this, you need to lubricate the joint between the adapter and the pipe and the lower, contact part of the flange with heat-resistant sealant. Next, all you have to do is screw the flange with metal pins through the pre-drilled holes to the lower flange ring.

Insulated sandwich chimneys are distinguished by their mirror shine. If you don’t like the elastic polymer adapter, then for such cases there are metal adapters made from the same stainless steel. They differ from their polymer counterparts in the large dimensions of the apron, the specified angle of inclination of the roof and the clearly defined diameter of the chimney.

Metal adapter.

The installation of such stainless steel adapters differs from the previous version only in that, in addition to heat-resistant sealant, a metal clamp is additionally used to seal the adapter and pipe.

Arranging a passage through metal tiles

I would like to immediately note that it is quite difficult to correctly pass a pipe through a metal tile without experience, so after studying the instructions and looking at the thematic photos and videos in this article, you should think carefully about whether you are capable of such a labor feat.

The connecting unit consists of an internal main and external decorative apron. Experienced roofers usually make the inner apron from tin or thin aluminum sheet. ABOUT round pipes we have already mentioned, so next we will talk about sealing the joint of the roof with square or rectangular brick pipes.

The inner apron is installed directly on the sheathing before laying the metal tiles. The design consists of 4 parts, according to the number of pipe planes. Each of these parts must extend under the layer of metal tiles by at least 250 - 300 mm. It extends onto the pipe by 150 - 250 mm, again from the metal tile layer.

Before installing the apron elements along the perimeter of the pipe at the same level parallel to the roof, a groove 10 - 15 mm deep is cut with a grinder. We will insert the upper cut of the apron into it.

Before inserting the apron elements into the groove, it is cleaned, washed with water, dried and filled with heat-resistant sealant. Only the sealant needs to be filled right before installing the protective elements.

On the plates themselves, along the upper cut, the edge is bent at 90º to the depth of the groove. Personally, I did it simpler, I immediately inserted the sheets into the groove and, tapping with a hammer, bent them down parallel to the pipe.

We complete the installation of the apron by attaching it to the pipe with special heat-resistant dowels and soldering the joints between all four elements. But that’s not all; a so-called tie is inserted and attached to the roof underlay underneath the apron. This is a sheet of the same tin or aluminum, the width of which must exceed the dimensions of the pipe by at least half a meter on each side.

It should go down the underlayment to the edge of the roof. The tie is a kind of insurance, if somewhere the decorative trim starts to leak, water will flow down the tie under the metal tile. Resulting in roofing pie will remain dry.

When the inner apron and tie are finally secured to the pipe and roof sheathing, you can begin laying the metal tiles themselves. At the end, a decorative apron is installed. Each metal tile manufacturer produces its own additional elements and makes them to match the color of the roof.

Such aprons, as a rule, are a corrugated aluminum or lead sheet, on the back of which a self-adhesive coating is applied. On top of this apron is equipped with a decorative strip, which is fixed to the pipe with self-tapping screws. But before fixing, it is advisable to additionally coat the joint with heat-resistant.

Upper bar The decorative apron is attached just above the border of the lower main apron; after fixing it, the apron itself is carefully tapped with a rubber hammer so that the corrugated sheet fits well and sticks to the complex surface of the metal tile.

The arrangement of transitions with soft modern roofing materials is carried out in approximately the same way, with the only difference that they often do without installing a tie.

The main mistake of amateurs is that they often neglect to install the main lower apron and tie; the decorative upper apron holds up well, of course, but the thin, soft aluminum corrugation barrier is not particularly reliable and can be easily damaged, for example, by a branch falling from a tree .

How to protect a wooden base from a hot chimney

As you remember, according to SNiP 41-03-01-2003, the minimum distance from the chimney to any wooden structures starts from 140 mm. Sandwich elements are considered the most “advanced” in this regard, but even there the insulation has a maximum thickness of only 100 mm.

We conclude that all chimneys when passing through wooden roof structures or wooden interfloor ceilings must be protected.

The passage of a pipe through the ceiling of a bathhouse is the most striking illustration of this topic, since bathhouses in our great power are usually made of wood. It is worth adding to this that the temperature in sauna stoves is often higher than in conventional ones.

It is believed that in order for dry wood to begin to char, it only needs 200ºC. And when the temperature reaches 300ºС, there is a real danger of spontaneous combustion.
Considering that birch firewood give temperatures up to 500ºС, and when using good coal or coke, the temperature can rise above 700ºС, then the scale of the danger becomes clear.

When arranging such transitions, you can go two ways: buy a special transition block or do it yourself.

Now the industry produces a variety of ceiling pass-through units (CPU). In expensive structures of this type, a special reinforced box is provided, which comes along with insulation, filler and other accessories. But as far as I have come across, our man does not want to pay money for such conveniences, and in this, I agree with him.

The fact is that the design itself is not particularly complicated and here, as often happens with us, it is cheaper to buy everything separately. First, I will tell you what the classic instructions for such an arrangement look like, and then I will tell you how I made the passage of the pipe through the ceiling of the bathhouse with my own hands:

• In almost any construction market you can now find special metal boxes with a hole already cut to a certain diameter of the chimney;
• In the horizontal plate of such a box, which is also part of the ceiling, mounting holes for self-tapping screws are made around the perimeter. But the structure cannot be immediately attached to a “bare” wooden ceiling. Its edges must first be covered with a non-flammable heat insulator. Most often, asbestos sheet is used for these purposes;
• The dimensions of the vertical walls of the box are selected in a similar way so that an asbestos sheet can be secured between them and the passage hole;

• The inside of the vertical walls of the box should be lined with foil-coated basalt wool 30 - 50 mm thick, it certainly costs more than usual, but these are the instructions;
• It is almost impossible to select the holes in the box for the chimney absolutely clearly without the slightest gap, although there will be at least a small gap. Here it is supposed to be covered with heat-resistant sealant;
• Next, the space between the foiled basalt wool and the chimney is filled with expanded clay or the same wool, only soft and uncoated. For a non-residential attic floor, this is enough, but if the bathhouse is an attic type, and there is a rest room on the second floor, then the box on top should be covered with a mineralite slab (a heat-resistant and safer analogue of asbestos) or the same stainless steel plate.

Now, as I promised, I’ll tell you about own experience arrangement of such a transition. The bathhouse was made a long time ago, and then these convenient devices it simply wasn't there. Sandwich designs at that time cost incredible amounts of money, so an abandoned cast iron pipe was installed as a chimney.

A square hole in the wooden ceiling was cut so that there was at least 250 mm between the chimney and the wood in all directions. I immediately filled the vertical walls of the niche with asbestos sheeting.

A three-millimeter stainless steel sheet was hemmed underneath. I wanted to hem a ten-millimeter asbestos-cement slab, but I was afraid that it would burst from the temperature, although my neighbor hemmed it and is still standing.

I wrapped the pipe in the box with asbestos cloth and caulked the gap with clay on top of it. And on top of this entire structure I covered it with expanded clay of medium diameter. On the second floor of the bathhouse, I decided to make a rest room, but at that time I did not have a second sheet of stainless steel of the same type.

Then I mixed a cement-lime mortar based on expanded clay sand and poured a thirty-millimeter wire-rod reinforced screed. Only the screed was not poured close to the cast iron pipe, but through a gasket made of asbestos sheet, otherwise it would simply crack with temperature fluctuations.

Conclusion

As you can see, you can make a passage through the roof of the chimney with your own hands. But still, if you decide to spend money on high-quality coverings made of metal tiles or other similar materials, I recommend that you first carefully study the available methods. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to answer.

July 28, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

How to remove a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling? Many owners of houses and bathhouses equipped with stoves face this issue. When installing a chimney in a bathhouse, an important point is the passage of the pipe through the ceiling. If the structure is made of wood, then correct cutting chimney becomes a primary concern to ensure fire safety. Only careful compliance with all established standards guarantees long and uninterrupted service of your property.

Before making a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the following recommendations.

Safety regulations

When installing a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling, you must follow the recommendations of Sanitary Norms and Rules 41 – 01 – 2003. According to clause 6.6.22, it is necessary to ensure a distance of 130 mm in the case of a brick pipe passing through the ceiling for a chimney, which provides protection for wood. But given that in most cases metal pipes are used in baths, you need to focus on the following standards:

• It is necessary to maintain a distance of more than 380 mm to flammable objects protected by insulation;
• The minimum distance to flammable objects without insulation must be more than 500 mm.

IN in this case these distances must be ensured before the pipeline comes into contact with the tree.

Ideally, these distances would not be covered with anything at all, but this option will contribute to increased heat loss, which is economically unprofitable. Therefore, this volume is covered with non-combustible materials.

The maximum length of the pipe passing through the ceiling in the bathhouse should not be more than 1000 mm. The chimney cannot be fixed to the roof in a rigid manner, because when the temperature changes, the pipe may change slightly in size, which can lead to deformation of the ceiling.

The bathhouse often uses pipes of a special design, called “sandwich”. They are two pipes different diameters, one of which is inside the other. The space between them is filled with a layer of insulation. Not many people know that outer part this design has almost the same temperature as inner part chimney.

Need to know! The main purpose of such a device is to ensure normal traction, and not at all to improve fire-fighting properties.

Often, in order to quickly heat the bathhouse, owners allow the stove to overheat. If the temperatures of the external part of the pipe exceed the permissible values ​​of 400 ºС, then this threatens the failure of the external part of the sandwich, which will lead to a fire hazard. Therefore, under no circumstances should the distance between the pipe and surrounding objects be reduced.

The distance to combustible structures when using brick or concrete pipes must be at least 13 cm. For ceramic pipes not equipped with insulation, the corresponding distance will be more than 25 cm, for pipes with insulation - 13 cm.

It is advisable to set these parameters at the bathhouse design stage, since the step when installing floor beams is usually not large. If it is 60 cm, then it will be possible to use only insulated pipes.

The diameter of the outlet part of the pipe is often 11.5 - 12 cm. If a sandwich uses 10 cm thick insulation, then we get a diameter of the outer part of 31.5 - 32 cm. We add the distance recommended for insulated structures of 13 cm on each side, we get a width of 57, 5 cm. That is, this design fits perfectly into the existing distance between the beams of 60 cm.

Now let's see what distance between the beams should be when using an uninsulated chimney. If the internal diameter is 11.5 mm, then we add to it the distance required by safety rules on all sides of 25 cm, we get 61.5 cm. The result obtained does not fit into the existing distance between the beams. Moreover, the diameter of the pipe can be even larger, and then the discrepancy between the size of the chimney and the pitch of the beams becomes even more noticeable.

Advice! In the instructions for stoves, manufacturers usually indicate the minimum distance required for the chimney to pass through the ceiling made of various materials. When constructing a chimney, use these values.

Fire protection

So, what insulating material is best to use for thermal protection when constructing a chimney passage through the ceiling with your own hands?

• Mineral wool. Retains its properties up to 300 ºC. Rigid mineral wool PZh - 175 can withstand higher temperatures (up to 1000 ºC). The disadvantage is the release of formaldehyde, which can be harmful to health. Also not resistant to water;
• Expanded clay. Tolerates wetness well. The disadvantage is the need to construct additional containers to accommodate it;
• Basalt cardboard. Environmentally friendly. A sheet 5 mm thick can withstand temperatures up to 900 ºС;
• Asbestos. It copes well with fire protection, but at the same time emits harmful substances. Therefore, if it is used for a chimney, it is necessary to isolate the room from it using metal sheets;
• Minerite. Able to withstand heating up to 600 ºС, without being destroyed by water and being an absolutely environmentally friendly material.

Some experts still use sand or clay for thermal insulation, but this method is gradually becoming a thing of the past.

You can reduce the likelihood of a fire using several other methods.

• Construction of a water jacket on the chimney. This will require a remote tank. It will also be necessary to supply cold water. But the hot water generated can be used in the shower or for heating. But the temperatures above the water jacket will drop significantly, which will reduce the likelihood of the pipe burning out;
• You can place a water tank above the stove, which will also protect the chimney from excessive heating. But with this method, you will have to constantly ensure that the water in the tank does not boil and pour cold water in time;
• Place stones on the pipe. You will need support to redistribute their mass.

Using all these methods, it is possible to reduce the temperature in the installed passage, which will significantly increase fire safety.

To increase fire safety in the bathhouse, you can use materials such as glass-magnesium sheets and fire-resistant plasterboard sheets. They are used to cover the ceilings themselves and the openings in them through which the chimney passes. Only Premium class sheets marked “NG” are suitable for fire protection. If such marking is absent, then such products cannot be used for fire protection.

Construction of a crossing over the ceiling

Let's look at how to make a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling. This can be done in two ways.

• Use ready-made cuts;
• Install the pass-through unit with your own hands.

Application of ready cuts

In order to fully protect roof elements from exposure high temperatures that arise when combustion products pass through the chimney, and at the same time secure the pipe in the required position, the so-called ceiling trim.

To construct a chimney passage through the ceiling, you need to purchase a chimney passage through the ceiling at a hardware store. It is a box made of mineralite or metal connected to a stainless steel plate. There is a hole in the center of the structure into which the sandwich is placed. Such a device also performs, among other things, a decorative function. A plate attached to it covers the ceiling hole, giving it a more aesthetic appearance. In addition, insulation rests on this plate, which fills the space between the ceiling elements and the pipe.

They come in two types:

Insulated, looking like two plates combined with an insulated pipe;

Without insulation, it is a box made of metal, which must be filled with insulating materials with your own hands and a hole intended for installing pipes.

Cuttings come in different forms. Sometimes they look like a metal cylinder, in which case the plate is significantly larger than it. If such a device is used, and the ceiling hole is square in shape, then it is still necessary to comply with all the listed parameters required to ensure the fire safety of the structure. At the same time, it is necessary to strengthen the protection of wooden bath structures using metal strips.

Installation of a ready-made adapter

• Cut a hole in the ceiling, taking into account the overall dimensions of the cut;
• If necessary, carry out insulation;
• Install the chimney passage unit into the ceiling;
• Bring the pipe to the ceiling, and its length should be 100-150 mm less than the height;
• Connect the section of pipe located on top of the roof;
• Seal all joints that arise during the passage chimney through a wooden ceiling.

Installation of an adapter made by hand

It is possible to carry out a chimney through the ceiling in a bathhouse without factory components.

Let's look at how to make a ceiling passage unit with your own hands. To do this you will need:

The material chosen for thermal insulation of the pipe passage through the bathhouse ceiling;

Metal plates.

The pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling and roof is installed following the recommendations described below.

• Cut a hole in the ceiling that is 13-18 mm larger than the size of the pipe;
• One edge of the pipe is inserted into the hole made;
• From inside the room, a plate is placed on the ceiling;
• The chimney passage through the ceiling is insulated. It is optimal to make thermal insulation for the ceiling passage unit from mineralite.
• The space remaining between the ceiling and the plate must also be filled with a layer of insulation.
• The plate is attached using self-tapping screws.

When considering how to install a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling, be sure to pay attention to such an important factor as choosing a suitable location for the passage of the ceiling for the chimney.

It can be installed either directly on the ridge, providing good traction and no accumulation of sediment; or next to the ridge.

Attention! Never install a chimney where roof slopes meet.

Cutting a chimney installed by yourself will require a little more time than purchased in a store, but will help save money, which is so necessary during construction.

When installing a chimney in a ceiling-roof slab, craftsmen are often faced with such a difficulty as the need to make a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling strictly vertically, placing it in the center of the passage. To do this, we can recommend using a plumb line. It is lifted up and lowered into the center of the chimney. This point is marked on the ceiling and used as an appropriate mark before making a pipe passage through the ceiling of the bathhouse.

Rules for passing through the ceiling

Before installing a chimney through a wooden ceiling, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for installing a ceiling passage assembly for a chimney with your own hands.

• At the outlet of the furnace, only a metal pipe with thick walls without thermal insulation is installed. This is due to the fact that in this place the temperatures reach values ​​that mineral materials cannot withstand.
• The pipe in the bathhouse is routed through the ceiling and roof, surrounded by insulating material.

• Where the pipes in the bathhouse are routed through the ceiling, joints are not allowed when crossing the floors. They are possible either below or above them;
• The horizontal section should not exceed 1 m;
• The maximum number of elbows when passing a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling is three;
• The passage of a pipe through the ceiling in a bathhouse is not allowed to be rigidly secured.

Joint insulation

When constructing a pipe cut on the ceiling of a bathhouse, they use sealants that ensure the strength of the joints and can withstand high temperatures.

The clamps used in the design must be made of the same material as the chimney itself.

Careful handling of the pipe passage through the roof is very important. Otherwise, the following consequences are possible:

The penetration of moisture into the chimney can lead to gradual destruction of the structure, which will result in the penetration of smoke between the roof and the ceiling, and therefore increase the risk of fire;

Liquid constantly accumulating inside the chimney can lead to the formation of fungus and rust;

Violation of tightness can lead to increased heat loss;

Water getting inside the roof can lead to rotting of the truss structure.

For additional protection from water ingress, special “aprons” are used. They come in different varieties: made of metal and therefore rigidly adjacent to the roof; built in advance into the sheet used to cover the roof; flexible, made of plastic materials - rubber or silicone. The size of these aprons must be selected taking into account the diameter of the chimney pipe.

Therefore, sealing all joints is the final, but at the same time extremely important point in bringing the chimney out.

Chimney outlet: requirements for how to make a chimney in a bathhouse and bring it out through the ceiling

Despite the fairly simple technology for building a bathhouse, in the process of carrying out the work it is necessary to solve a number of problems. complex issues. One of them is to lead the chimney pipe out through the ceiling. This operation must be given Special attention, since the safety and service life of the structure depend on correct execution.

If miscalculations are made at this stage, it will be impossible to comply with fire safety requirements. So it’s better to do everything to the maximum than to underdo it. Hardly anyone will doubt this. Therefore, every private developer rules must be followed concerning the proper manufacture of a chimney passage through the ceiling in a bathhouse.

About distances to combustible structures

For proper and safe operation, the bath pipe must be routed through a specially created passage in the ceiling. Thanks to this device, a safe distance will be maintained from the outer surface of the pipe to the ceiling materials. This the requirement is fixed by SNIP 2.04.05-91. In accordance with it, you need to do the following:

The distance between combustible rafters and sheathing and the outer surface of brick and concrete pipes must be at least 130 mm;

• A distance of at least 250 mm must be maintained between the ceiling and the surface of the ceramic pipe without insulation, and 130 mm between the pipe with thermal insulation.

It is with these values ​​in mind that it is necessary to install the floor beams yourself. They should be installed at a distance of about 60 cm. But such a step can only be maintained if insulated pipes are used.

Attention must be paid to cross section of the furnace outlet pipe, which is usually 115-120 mm. Sometimes, when constructing a passage, a heat-insulating sandwich 100 mm thick is used. In this case, it is possible to increase the cross-section to 315-320 mm. A pitch of at least 130 mm must be maintained on both sides. Taking into account compliance with the above requirement, we obtain that adjacent beams will be located from each other at a distance of 575 mm (130 mm * 2 + 315 mm). This just allows you to maintain the recommended step of 60 cm.

It is also necessary to determine the minimum pitch for a pipe without thermal insulation. At internal section For a 115 mm chimney, the distance at which the outer edge of the pipe is 250 mm away from combustible materials will be considered safe. The installation of beams must be carried out in increments of 516 mm (250 mm * 2 + 115 mm).

Although the deviations are small, still does not fit into the specified interval. The given calculation scheme is intended for a medium-sized smoke duct. But some baths use pipes with a larger cross-section. Be that as it may, if you have not yet started installing the ceiling, be sure to take into account the distance when placing the beams.

If you refer to Appendix 16, you can find recommendations on the setback (the distance from the outer surface of the pipe to combustible materials):

For partitions equipped with a protective coating:

• For pipes with a thickness of 120 mm - 200-260 mm;
• for pipes with a thickness of 65 mm - 380 mm.

For partitions that do not have special protection:

• For pipes with a thickness of 120 mm - 260-320 mm;
• For pipes with a thickness of 65 mm - 320-500 mm.

All these distances clearly show what it should be like recommended distance from walls. They are given due to the fact that in many buildings the chimney is often installed in close proximity to the walls. At the same time, the wall material also needs protection from fire. The reason for this is simple: the flue gases leaving the furnace can have a temperature of 500° C. In the absence of wooden walls With special protection, after some time they become heated and may subsequently burst into flames. Taking these risks into account, it is necessary to fix a heat-insulating layer on the surface of the wall, and put a sheet of polished stainless steel on top of it.

Types of ceiling penetrations

When installing an outlet for a chimney pipe with your own hands “pie” materials are exposed ceilings, which also begin to experience the effects of heat. They need to be protected, and in addition, the pipe must be properly secured in the correct position. It is for this purpose that a ceiling cutting is used, which is also called a passage unit.

The easiest way to solve the problem of venting a chimney through the ceiling is to purchase a passage unit industrial production. It looks like a box made of metal or mineralite, with a stainless or galvanized steel plate fixed on one side. In the center of this unit there is a hole where the sandwich is inserted. A plate that will be attached to the side of the room will help close the hole in the ceiling, acting here as a decorative element. It also serves as a support for the heat insulator, which is used to seal the space between the pipe and the floor beams.

All experts agree on the choice of suitable material for making penetrations in the bathhouse. It should only be stainless steel. This is explained by the fact that the prevailing temperatures in the steam room as a result of exposure cause the material to release harmful substances. In the case of using stainless steel, such a health hazard is excluded.

Making a pass-through knot with your own hands is quite simple. If a ceiling structure is already present in the bathhouse, but is made without taking into account the passage of the pipe, then in the place chosen for the unit make a square hole cross-section 12 cm smaller than the decorative panel. A layer of insulation is laid on the beams and boards. If possible, you can additionally secure strips of mineralite, basalt or asbestos-cement cardboard. A strip of rock wool insulation will also work. Sometimes it may be necessary to pad the insulation with strips of metal.

As for the features of installing a pipe on a stove in a bathhouse with your own hands, the device must be put on a straight section that will pass at the intersection with the ceiling. The performer is only required raise the passage unit to the required height. You need to place a strip of insulation under the edges of the device, which will be flush with the ceiling boards, and then perform the final fastening using self-tapping screws. Very often, factory-made pass-through units already have perforations for self-tapping screws, so there is no need to prepare them before installation.

Pass-through units for a chimney in a bathhouse may have different shape. In some cases, a metal cylinder is built around the perimeter of the chimney opening. In this case, the edges of the decorative plate will extend beyond the cylinder to a fairly large distance. If you plan to use a pass-through assembly of a similar shape, then the hole still needs square. Acceptable here and round form, but then you will have to maintain a distance between its edge and the pipe of 130 mm if there is insulation on the pipe, or 250 mm if there is no insulation.

When implementing this option, you should pay attention to the following: the area of ​​the plate must be sufficient so that it can cover the entire hole. When using a knot of this shape, you need to protect the tree not only with insulation, but also with metal strips.

Sometimes a bathhouse may use pass-through units without a cylinder around the pipe, but they may have external edges around the perimeter. Most often they are made of metal, although items made of mineralite are also found. When using a unit with metal sides, it is necessary to trim the edges of the hole in the ceiling with insulation, for example, basalt cardboard. If the sides are made of mineralite, then such an operation will not have to be performed, since the material has good heat-insulating properties.

Rules for passing through the ceiling

When preparing to install a hole for the chimney outlet in the bathhouse, you a number of rules must be followed:

In the place where the pipe comes out of the sauna stove, it is allowed to install only a metal pipe of sufficient wall thickness without insulation. It must have a height of at least 1 m. Due to the critical temperatures created at the outlet, even stainless steel in combination with mineral wool insulation will not be able to cope with such thermal effects. For more high levels chimney construction is permitted to use sandwich pipes.

• To bring out the chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands through a hole in the ceiling, use a pipe in a protective sheath. The latter can be a factory sandwich, but if desired, insulation can be done thin wall pipes yourself.
• Pay special attention to areas where floors intersect, where there should be no joints before or after. When calculating the height of sections, assume that you have the ability to visually monitor the condition of all connections.
• For a horizontal section, the maintained length should be no more than 1 m.
• Along the entire length of the chimney structure in the bathhouse, it is allowed to use no more than 3 elbows.
• It is prohibited to rigidly attach the pipe to the ceiling. In case of temperature changes, it will begin to deform, which will lead to its displacement.

What thermal insulator should I use?

Having finished installing the passage unit on the ceiling with your own hands, work continues in the attic or the second floor, where it is necessary to seal the space between the outer wall of the pipe and the beams with insulation.

Basalt wool

Basalt wool can serve as a heat insulator. Before purchasing, be sure to check that it can withstand temperatures over 600°C.

There is an opinion that this is not the optimal option for such work. This is explained as follows. This insulation is made using resins as a binder, which, when exposed to high temperatures, begin to release formaldehyde. In addition, condensation sometimes begins to flow through the pipe. As a result of the interaction of mineral wool with moisture, the former loses its heat-shielding properties. As the moisture evaporates, the properties are only partially restored. Therefore, basalt wool cannot be considered an ideal option.

In addition to the insulation, it is necessary to lay expanded clay of medium and fine grain into the passage space in the bathhouse. Builders know it as a natural material that is quite lightweight. Its main advantage is that even after getting wet it restores its properties. But after contact with moisture, its thermal conductivity characteristics increase slightly, although they are already very low even in comparison with mineral wool.

At one time, instead of expanded clay, sand was used as a sealant. In principle, it suited everyone, except for one thing: due to its fine grain, it constantly spills through the cracks. As a result, the owner has to monitor the amount of sand and replenish it if necessary. However, it is unlikely that anyone will enjoy collecting sand from the stove.

Among natural insulation materials, you can choose clay. Before use, it is mixed with water to a paste-like state, and then the entire gap is sealed with the mixture. Sometimes expanded clay is used as a filler.

According to some owners, using a pass-through heat insulator in a bathhouse is not very correct. It is believed that nothing will happen if the space is left unfilled. This will help prevent overheating and burning this part of the chimney structure, and thanks to the ventilation created in this place, the pipe section will cool faster. This may be true, but you need to take into account that the hot pipe radiates heat, which will cause the nearby tree to dry out. And then fire can occur at a lower temperature of + 50°C.

Conclusion

Exiting the chimney through the ceiling with your own hands is a necessary operation in the process of building a bathhouse. However, you need to be very careful here because of a possible fire hazard. During operation of the furnace, the area located near the ceiling will reach high temperatures and may at some point cause a fire if protective measures are not taken. To do this, a special alteration called a pass-through unit is performed step by step. But at the same time, it is necessary to maintain the recommended distances for placing this device relative to the floor materials.

We carry out the correct installation of the chimney in the bathhouse: we go through the ceiling and roof

Today we’ll talk about purely bath topics. Having built a long-awaited steam room and bought a stove for it, many ask this question. How to install a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling to do everything quickly and safely?

I know from practice what illiterate installation of a chimney can lead to. Some migrant workers (I don’t want to say anything bad about them, many work excellently and responsibly, fulfilling the assigned task) violate basic requirements in order to speed up the labor process. In this case, fire is a common occurrence. I can remember two similar incidents in our small town. They occurred precisely because of poor thermal insulation between the pipe and the ceiling.

Something started out of the blue, let's get down to business. First of all, we will pay attention to the fire safety of the bathhouse, as well as all the subtleties of this work...

We run the chimney through the ceiling

The first thing to do is determine the exact location where the stove will be installed. Although, this issue must be resolved at the stage of planning and designing all premises. What should you consider?

Firstly, the chimney passing through the ceiling should not be located near load-bearing beams and rafters. Otherwise, the question may arise: how to remove them (which is extremely problematic) or how to protect them from fire. In order not to worry about this, think about this nuance in advance.

Secondly, the stove should be located in a place convenient for you. The correct location of the firewood box, some stove accessories, open doors etc. should not cause you any inconvenience. Here you should also consider where the tank will be located. hot water and whether there will be one at all (maybe you have an electric or gas boiler).

Okay, we decided on the location and installed the stove. Now we prepare or buy the chimney itself and all the “bells and whistles” that will be required. Here I mean sandwich pipes and additional elements, which you can read in detail in another article. A chimney for a bath of this type is the most practical and in demand today. We will consider this option further...

In order to accurately mark the ceiling, we take a regular plumb line (I think there is no need to explain what it is) and raise it to the ceiling. In this case, the weight of the plumb line must be in the middle of the smoke exhaust channel of the furnace. We mark on the ceiling the place that the “smart device” showed us. This is the center where the bath pipe will pass.

Next, we take the ceiling passage box, which is included in the “necessary gadgets” category, and mark the hole in the ceiling according to its size. This hole can be made 1-2 centimeters larger. There is nothing wrong with this, since everything will close from below design feature the box itself, and from the attic side, the remaining cracks can be closed with the same stone wool.

Next, cut a hole of the required size in the ceiling. Here everything depends on what tool you have. The best option, of course, is a chainsaw. Fast and effective. Just check first for the absence of nails, screws and other metal objects in the cutting area wooden ceiling. Any insulation should also be absent, especially flax or jute. Using a chain saw on these materials is unacceptable; you can ruin the tire (I already have a bad experience). Go ahead…

Highlights of exiting through the roof

Now the next stage: we need to “punch holes” in the roof and roof. The work is unpleasant, but necessary. Again we start with the markings. If we compare it with the ceiling, then here we mark it differently. The roof usually has a slope. And the greater this slope angle, the larger the area of ​​the hole cut for the chimney will be.

With the lateral vertical markings everything is simple: we retreat 10-15 centimeters from the sandwich pipe and cut it out wooden sheathing. With horizontal upper and especially lower markings it is more difficult. Here you should take into account the slope of the roof and be more careful with the bottom sheathing board. Make sure it is not too close to the chimney.

The roof itself will have to be cut in the form of an oval. Again, the greater the angle of the roof, the more stretched the hole will be. To close the cut hole from the street side, use special rubber seals. In common parlance they are called “flash drives”. They are called seals roof passages. A very convenient and practical thing.

By the way, about the “flash drive”. Always purchase it with the desired slope, at the angle of your roof slope. Often managers in retail chains offer a direct version of the flash seal. In practice, it can only be properly placed on a horizontal surface. Take this point into account.

Chimney made of iron pipe

Quite often, especially in rural areas, use an iron chimney for a bathhouse. That is, an ordinary iron pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm is used. The option is not entirely the best, but it has the right to exist. Here the ceiling pass-through assembly (CPU) is performed differently. Distance from metal pipe there should be 40-50 centimeters to wooden structures.

The chimney itself in the area of ​​the ceiling passage and in the attic is wrapped with sheet asbestos. It is pre-moistened with water so that it does not crack when bent. The top of such a wrapped pipe can be wrapped with wire. It will not allow asbestos to “slide” down.

From the side of the steam room, the hole made is covered with a sheet of stainless steel or ordinary thin metal. But under this sheet it is also necessary to place asbestos or paronite. The goal is to reduce heat transfer between this metal and finishing, for example, clapboard. Expanded clay is poured on top of the metal sheet or basalt insulation is laid.

In order to close the roof, a flash seal for this pipe is no longer suitable. Rubber simply cannot withstand high temperatures. Proceed as follows: the cut hole is covered with a sheet of metal, and the gaps between the pipe are sealed with rope asbestos, which is generously moistened with thick cement mortar(simply wrapped around the pipe). As they say: cheap and cheerful.

• Necessarily use a ceiling passage box, even if you use a sandwich. Fill it with expanded clay, foam glass or mineral wool. Do not fill the space around the pipe with earth, especially sand. Sand tends to get very hot and retain heat for a long time.
• The most optimal height chimney - 4.5-5 meters. Try to stick to these parameters.
• The upper edge of the pipe should rise above the ridge by at least 50 centimeters. But, if the roof is flat, then the height here should be at least a meter. For large chimney heights, special guy wires are installed.
• IN steamy room, if the pipe passes near a wall or partition, then a protective screen must be installed on the wall. It can be in the form of stainless steel or basalt cardboard.
• When installing a flash drive, it is recommended to use a special thermal and weather-resistant sealant. He copes well with the task assigned to him. By the way, during the assembly of a chimney sandwich, the same thermal sealant, and sometimes crimp clamps, are often used.
• If you are using flammable roofing material, then the presence of a spark arrestor is mandatory. You can do it yourself by using a used KAMAZ air filter.
• Try to avoid sandwich pipe joints in the ceiling passage. At this point the smoke channel must be solid.

How to install a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling

We carry out the correct installation of a chimney in a bathhouse. How to safely pass through ceilings and roofs. Some tips from stove makers.

How to properly route a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling and roof

The construction of a chimney duct to the stove requires its passage through the ceiling and out to the roof. The bathhouse pipe through the roof must pass in full compliance with fire safety rules. Otherwise, the possibility of fires increases, which will cause harm to human health.

Chimney outlet to the roof

Safety regulations

The passage of a pipe through the ceiling of a bathhouse is regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003. This document states that:

• the passage of the bath pipe in the ceiling should be located at a minimum distance of 350 mm from flammable structures and 250 mm from difficult to flammable elements;
• It is considered ideal to leave this distance not closed (air). However, such a design will lose a large amount of heat;
• the specified distance is filled with non-combustible materials;
• the hole must be covered with metal sheets (stainless steel is more often used, which does not spoil the appearance of the room);
• the pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling and roof should not have joints. This factor must be taken into account when designing a chimney;
• the maximum length of the pipeline passing through the ceiling or roof should not exceed 1 m;
• The chimney should not be attached rigidly to the ceiling or roof.

Selection of thermal insulation material

The following materials can be a heat insulator:

• basalt or mineral wool. The insulation can withstand heating up to 600ºС. The main disadvantages are: the release of formaldehyde, since the material contains resins and the instability of protective qualities when wet, which is possible in the event of condensation formation;

• expanded clay The material has excellent properties. When wet, expanded clay quickly restores its functions. However, to arrange the ceiling, you will have to additionally install containers in which the material will be located;

Middle fraction expanded clay

• mineralite The material consists of cement, cellulose and mineral fillers. Minerite tiles can withstand temperatures up to 600ºC. When heated, it does not emit harmful substances, and when exposed to water, it does not lose its properties;

• asbestos. It is a good insulating material, but when heated strongly it releases substances harmful to humans;
• sand or clay. The materials were used as heat insulators earlier, before the advent of modern insulation materials. However, some experts prefer to use natural materials rather than artificial ones.

Pipe joint insulation

To make the joints airtight, use:

• high-strength sealants that can withstand large temperature changes;
• special clamps made of the same material as the chimney.

Crossing the ceiling

How to remove a pipe from a bathhouse through the ceiling? To arrange the transition you can:

• purchase ready-made cuts;
• build the crossing yourself.

Arrangement of a ceiling transition with ready-made cutting

The finished shelf assembly is designed to facilitate the installation of a ceiling transition. You can purchase such a chimney element at any specialized store.

There are two types of ready-made passages:

The pass-through unit with finished insulation consists of:

Finished ceiling assembly with insulation

An adapter without insulation consists of metal boxes that need to be filled with insulating materials and holes for pipes.

Unit for arranging a passage through a ceiling without insulation

How to install a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling using ready-made cutting? The whole process consists of the following steps:

1. make a hole in the ceiling of the required dimensions (depending on fire safety requirements and cutting dimensions);
2. in the right places, the cutting is insulated with the previously selected material;
3. the finished unit is installed in the ceiling passage;
4. a pipe is connected to the ceiling in the bathhouse. The length of the pipe should be 10 - 15 cm less than the height;
5. The next section of pipe is connected in the attic.
6. pipe joints are sealed.

Installation process of finished cutting

Arranging a ceiling transition with your own hands

For self-made transition node will need:

• metal plates;
• insulation;
• chimney pipe.

The pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling is installed according to the following scheme:

1. a hole is made in the ceiling, the diameter of which is 130 - 180 mm greater than the diameter of the stove pipe used;

Additional reinforcement of ceiling beams

1. the chimney goes into the attic. In this case, the pipe connection must be higher or lower than the ceiling;
2. a metal plate is installed on the ceiling on the inside of the bathhouse;

Attaching the support metal plate

1. the entire distance from the plate to the attic floor is insulated.

The pipe in the bathhouse is laid through the wall in a similar way.

Exiting the smoke duct to the roof

Before you remove the pipe in the bathhouse through the roof, you need to take care of two factors necessary for the operation:

• select the location of the output;
• purchase the necessary items.

Place for withdrawal

The pipe outlet through the roof of the bathhouse can be done:

• on the ridge of the roof. This location of the chimney is considered the most optimal, since snow and other precipitation does not accumulate in this place and good draft is ensured. However, in practice this is not always feasible;

Chimney located on the ridge

Rules for the location of the chimney duct on the roof of the bathhouse

Required Items

Installing a pipe into a bathhouse through the roof is impossible without the following elements:

• cutting, similar to the passage through the ceiling;
• insulating material (compliance with safety regulations);
• a special apron that protects the chimney from precipitation.

Cuttings can be used either ready-made or self-made.

Aprons can be:

• metal, ensuring a rigid connection of the structure to the roof surface;

Metal apron

Sheet with built-in apron

Instructions for removing the pipe

How to remove a pipe in a bathhouse through the roof? To do this you need:

• make a hole of a suitable size in the selected place on the roof (slightly larger than the outlet pipe);
• Carry out reinforcement work around the hole on the floor beams;
• install a groove from the inside of the roof, as when crossing the ceiling;
• bring out the pipe of the required size;
• install an apron on the outer part of the roof.

Scheme of arranging a passage through the roof

Thus, knowing the fire safety rules and instructions for arranging the main components, you can install a chimney for a bathhouse yourself. To do this, you need to purchase all the materials and basic elements of the system. Before firing the stove for the first time, time is required to dry the sealants used (approximately 1 day) and check the tightness of all joints of the chimney duct.

How to route a bathhouse pipe through the roof

It is easier to remove the pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling using a ready-made passage unit, which can be purchased in the store. The passage of the pipe is carried out with the mandatory use of insulating materials.

The passage of the chimney through the ceiling between floors - ceiling cutting - is one of the most critical stages in the construction of a bathhouse. This is due to the high frequency of fires due to the ignition of wooden structures near chimneys, and this is exactly what the floors and ceilings in baths are like.

Safety regulations dictate the need to avoid unprotected contact between a hot pipe and flammable materials. To comply with them, when installing a chimney in a bathhouse, you need to build a special ceiling passage unit in the form of a box using fire-retardant materials, and carry it out in strict accordance with the standards.

Fire safety standards and regulations

Any developer can become familiar with what chimney equipment is considered safe according to SNiP 41-01-2003.

SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)

We are interested in clause 6.6.22, which dictates a setback of 130 mm in the area of ​​passage through the floors for a brick pipe made with wood protection. It is known that brick and concrete pipes have lower heat transfer than modern metal pipes, which are most often used in baths. This means that when arranging the cutting of a single-walled metal pipe without thermal protection, you should be guided by other deviation numbers that are indicated in Appendix “K”:

500 mm to wood without thermal protection;


380 mm from the heated pipe to the flammable pipe behind a layer of thermal insulation.

These figures should be considered as distances from the smoke inside the chimney to the tree.

Manufacturers of stoves and chimneys provide documentation that necessarily indicates the possible value of the distances to ceilings made of various materials. They should be used as a guide when constructing a passage yourself. bath pipe through the ceiling.

What materials can be used for fire protection when installing polyurethane foam?

Both brick, ceramic, and metal parts of interfloor cutting units are heated to temperatures that create a risk of wood fire. To reliably isolate the flammable elements of the ceiling pie, you need to make a gasket made of protective materials.

Material	Description
	Slab fireproof material based on cement with the addition of limestone, mica and cellulose. Withstands constant heating up to 150 °C. When exposed to higher temperatures, the organic mineralite filler burns out and it becomes brittle.
	This general name refers to fibrous insulation, consisting of molten threads of various inorganic natures. This can be either minerals (basalt, dolomite, etc.), or blast furnace waste, slag. Slag wool does not lose its properties up to temperatures of 300°C; in a hotter environment, sintering of the fibers occurs - binders and water-repellent additives are not as resistant to fire as the mineral component. As a result, thermal conductivity increases sharply. Rigid mineral board of the PZh-175 brand is positioned as a fire-resistant material. It is capable of maintaining insulating properties up to 1000°C.
	Available in thicknesses from 2 to 10 mm. This is a material that perfectly protects against fire; it not only does not burn, but also does not smolder. Harmfulness may be considered a limitation on its use - asbestos vapors are undesirable in a bathhouse. All asbestos gaskets on the steam room side must be covered with metal.
	A highly efficient and absolutely environmentally friendly heat insulator, which belongs to the group of non-combustible materials. Its thickness is 5 mm, the thermal conductivity coefficient increases slightly with increasing temperature, and it operates reliably at temperatures up to 900°C.

These are materials that can protect wooden parts from charring and fire at high temperatures in a high-heat zone. But the primary cladding of the ends of the floor, if the necessary indents are observed, can be carried out not only by them. For these purposes, it is allowed to use materials with flammability class G1 (low flammability).

Material	Description
	It has the designation GKLO, gray sheets with red markings. It differs from the usual one by the presence of internal reinforcement with a tighter adhesion of the layers. This prevents the penetration of oxygen into the thickness of the material, combustion is not supported and even in an open fire the material does not collapse within 20 minutes.
	Only products labeled as Premium class have fireproof properties of the NG degree. A sheet of the Standard class, which is not marked in any way, cannot be used to protect wood.

The choice of thermal insulator can play a role decisive role. It should be remembered that ordinary mineral wool, which is sometimes recommended to be used for filling the passage unit, sinteres when heated and quickly loses its fire-retardant properties.

High temperature leads to a change in its structure - while remaining unchanged in appearance, it can heat up significantly and can no longer cope with thermal insulation. To ensure reliable thermal insulation of the chimney, it is necessary to use basalt wool, designed for operation at temperatures of 800-1000°C.

It is also safe to lay mineralite, asbestos or basalt cardboard. There is also a time-tested budget option for thermal protection - sand was used for it (the passage box was filled with it) and clay. For example, sufficient thermal insulation of the part of the ceiling to which the box is attached is achieved by applying an even layer of clay about 2 cm thick to a metal sheet with a flange.

Video - How to install a chimney yourself. Calculations and drawings

Features of using a “sandwich” chimney when passing through the ceiling of a bathhouse

Modern metal sauna stoves are often supplemented steel pipes made of ferrous or stainless metal. Wanting to reduce hard IR radiation and make the contact point between the chimney and the ceiling above the stove safer, bathhouse owners use a “sandwich” - a double pipe with a thermal insulation layer.

Important! In no case should the connection of the chimney elements be at the level of the ceiling passage.

Contrary to popular belief, the outer casing of a stainless steel sandwich is not much cooler than the main chimney. This pipe design, in principle, does not serve to protect the bathhouse from fire - the sandwich provides best conditions for sustainable traction, this is precisely its main task. When considering fire protection measures, one should not hope that the use of a sandwich at the passage point makes it possible to reduce the distance of indentations.

It is known that due to afterburning volatile compounds in the pipe itself, the temperature in it increases for some time as the altitude increases. If at the level of the furnace exit the gases have a temperature of 800°C, at a level of 1.5-2 m the measurements will already show 850°C. Under these conditions, the outer casing can be heated to 300°C, as evidenced by the tarnished colors on its surface.

Wanting to heat the bathhouse faster, overheating the stove, it is easy to exceed the optimal regime for the passage of combustion products through the pipe. According to the standards of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, the temperature in stainless steel chimneys should not exceed 400°C; tests for certification are carried out precisely at these values. Most steam lovers far exceed these parameters. The metal quickly burns out due to overheating, and you need to understand that the sandwich can turn into a single-walled sandwich at any moment. The insulation with which the sandwich is stuffed also does not serve as a panacea for fire. If you assemble a chimney “for smoke” and not “for moisture”, the thermal insulator heats up during combustion, and after cooling it is saturated with condensate - as a result, over time it loses its useful properties.

All of the above leads to a certain conclusion - you should not frivolously reduce the recommended margins, hoping for a protective sandwich casing.

Important: when using metal stoves and stainless steel chimneys when installing a ceiling passage, the optimal distance from the smoke to the wooden structures is 380 mm!

Stages of ceiling cutting installation

The main tasks that the builder faces when arranging the passage of a chimney through the ceiling of a bathhouse are protection from fire of the ceiling and an even vertical installation pipes. The work takes place in three stages:

determination and arrangement of the location of the cutting unit;

installation of ready-made or self-made protective casing;

final thermal protection gasket.

This general rules, and specific methods of work depend on many factors - the allocated budget, preferences in the choice of materials, even on whether the technologies were followed during the construction of the bathhouse.

The center of the pipe passage is determined using a plumb line. The cutout is made according to the markings, slightly reducing the size of the sides so that the future decorative panel completely covers it.

A self-made passage, as a rule, is decorated on the steam room side with a sheet of metal - galvanized or stainless steel, which also serves as a heat shield. The dimensions of the sheet must exceed the size of the cutout for the pipe.

A vertically positioned chimney will pass through both the ceiling and the roof. When marking the chimney, you should start from the highest point and use a plumb line;

When using ready-made polyurethane foam structures, they are guided by the hole sizes recommended by the manufacturer;

By passing the chimney through the ceiling independently, without an industrially manufactured unit, a preliminary calculation of the passage duct is made. Strictly above the passage of the pipe in the ceiling pie it is necessary to do through hole, in size allowing to comply with the required indentations. They are calculated as follows: for example, a pipe diameter of 120 mm, a sandwich with 50 mm insulation will pass through the ceiling. The resulting outer size is 230 mm. Allowable distance we will find by adding the two distances of indents with the internal diameter to the smoke. According to safety standards, this is 2*380+120=880 mm.

Important! It’s good if the exact location of the sauna stove and chimney is thought out while drawing up the project. In this case, it is easy to calculate the installation of load-bearing floor beams in order to provide the necessary space for the safe passage of pipes between them.

Otherwise, the first thing you need to start work with is changing the design of the ceiling above the stove. Part of the beam that is too close to the hot chimney is cut out and strengthened by installing jumpers firmly attached to the resulting ends. Then the ceiling is covered.

Installation of a finished cutting unit - feedthrough pipe

The advantages of using a factory design are the ease of installation and the obviously aesthetic appearance of the ceiling in the steam room.

It is assumed that a sandwich will be used as a chimney when inserted into the finished polyurethane foam. The dimensions of standard devices are small to ensure reliable insulation of a single-wall chimney.

Ceiling passage units of various configurations are available for sale. The design is based on a rectangular or round section, rigidly connected to a sheet that serves both for protection from heat from below and for decorative finishing. In the center there is a cutout for the pipe; the unit is selected according to its diameter. Ready-made walk-through structures are made of metal, most often stainless steel, and mineralite, with or without a thermal insulator gasket. The best in terms of their properties are combined ones, having an internal metal box and an external mineralite box with an air fireproof layer between them.

Install the floor passage unit in this way.

The ends of the hole cut in the ceiling are covered with a layer of heat insulation, beating wood around the perimeter.

The bottom sheet of the device and all places of possible contact between metal and wood are laid with a non-flammable layer sheet material. Good ones here: mineralite, asbestos and foil basalt cardboard.

The finished structure is placed on the elbow, which will be located in the passage unit, and brought to the hole cut in the ceiling. From the steam room below, the finished unit is fixed to the ceiling with self-tapping screws; usually the holes for them are provided in advance by the manufacturer.

The diameter of the bore hole is always greater than the diameter of the pipe. Rigid binding is unacceptable due to thermal deformations; a gap of at least 5 mm is required. Based on what material will be used as fire protection near the pipe, a decision is made on the advisability of insulating the gap. If necessary, the pipe at the junction is wrapped with asbestos cord.

From above, on the ceiling of the attic, additional thermal insulation is carried out. The box is filled with expanded clay or fire-resistant mineral wool.

In the attic, the cutting unit is left without exterior finishing. If the upper floor is residential, the passage structure is decorated with a metal sheet.

Homemade pipe passage through the ceiling of a bathhouse - step-by-step instructions with photos

Necessary materials:

tin for making cutting boxes;

• stainless steel sheet;

  sheet of gypsum board or basalt cardboard;

  The material for filling the box is expanded clay, but dry clay can also be used.

The pipe passage in this example is carried out at the stage before finishing the ceiling. This is not important; the sequence of operations does not change.

Illustration	Description
	A tin box is made - a board is taken as a template for the folds, the edges are fastened with rivets. The dimensions of the box correspond to the distance between the ceiling beams, if their location was thought out taking into account the future installation of the chimney. Indents are calculated according to standards, 380*2+diameter inner pipe sandwich.
	Using a plumb line, the center of the pipe is determined. A point is marked where the weight dropped from the ceiling hits the center of the hole for the pipe. This will be the center of the chimney and the floor passage unit. A hole is cut above the pipe. When marking it, the mineralite layer that runs along the perimeter is taken into account. After laying it, the box should sit freely on the ceiling. The ends of the hole are laid with strips of mineralite; it is enough to provide thermal insulation along the edge, where the metal will come into contact with the ceiling structure.
	The tin box does not have sufficient rigidity, and to maintain its shape, galvanized profile spacers are installed.
	A stainless steel sheet is cut. Before removing the protective film, fix the exact location of the hole for the pipe. The cutout diameter leaves a gap between the pipe and the hole. Additionally, a decorative shield is prepared from the same material, which will cover the joint. Using metal scissors, carefully cut out the center of the resulting circle in sectors.
	Start cutting the heat-insulating gasket under the sheet. The template for it is a ready-made sheet of metal. The tools you will need are a jigsaw.
	Start cutting the heat-insulating gasket under the sheet. The template for it is a ready-made sheet of metal. The tools you will need are a jigsaw. Insert the box into place and cover the hole with a stainless steel sheet. To make sure that the ceiling in the area adjacent to the box will not char or catch fire, this is done through a thermal protection sheet. Decorative overlay attached to the sheet. As a result, a reliable and beautiful screen is obtained above the stove near the chimney.
	The last stage The work on constructing a passage through the ceiling of the bathhouse will be the thermal insulation of the pipe in the box. To do this, refractory material is poured into it to the very top. Experience shows that both sand and clay have been successfully used for these purposes. But since the dimensions of the box are not too small, preference should be given to lighter expanded clay.

Installing a chimney in a bathhouse from sandwich pipes is the most optimal option for a metal chimney. This lightweight and compact structure is almost irreplaceable in conditions where original plan There is no smoke exhaust device in the home.

It is not difficult to implement this installation idea. All you need is to fasten the main parts and auxiliary elements in the desired sequence.

In this case, you also need to take into account some nuances of this device. Without them, it will not be possible to correctly complete a solid and hermetically sealed structure. And such a structure would look like this:

Sandwich - structures formed from three layers received their name from the light suggestion of a famous resident of England. Chimneys in a bathhouse with this name are no exception.

Distinctive feature of these pipes is that an insulating layer is placed between the metal contour on the outside and the same contour in the middle. It is usually made from basalt materials.

Additional elements for installation:

• pipe equipped with inspection;
• brackets and other parts:

This kit helps ensure the proper functioning of the chimney system.

A sandwich chimney in a bathhouse has a number of advantages.

• The circuit inside the sandwich pipe tolerates heat to high temperatures and the influence of condensation well.
• Structural features create obstacles for water to penetrate into the insulation.
• The required thrust limit is created, and the gases are discharged.

The contour is inside these materials, and this option is known to have high anti-corrosion properties. With savings as a goal, the outside contour is often made of less resistant galvanized material.

Thus, the consumer faces the problem of choosing a material: to prefer a long-lasting stainless steel or an option that allows some savings.

IMPORTANT! The material for the sandwich pipe inside is selected taking into account its ability to withstand high temperatures. And the product for the outer contour must be made of rigid material, otherwise its configuration cannot remain unchanged.

Also used during installation:

1. Brackets on the wall to hold the building.
2. An audit consisting of a window for cleaning, which also includes a stand.
3. Adapter kit.
4. Tees.
5. Knees that make it possible to change the direction of the structure by 45 degrees or at a right angle.
6. Clamps for fastening separate parts.
7. Unloading platform. It allows you to accurately calculate the mass of a structure and remove the load from its base.
8. , rosette and comfrey.

Installation and assembly

Installing a sandwich chimney in a bathhouse is the simplest type of network installation for removing combustion products. Small and lightweight building elements can be easily assembled using auxiliary elements.

Before erecting such a structure, the following requirements should be taken into account:

The most suitable length from the stove to the fungus on the roof is 5 meters.

The pipe is placed vertically without making ledges. The deviation from the vertical is allowed at thirty degrees, and the maximum deviation to the side is one meter.

Provided that the distance from the roof to the head of the structure exceeds one and a half meters, it is necessary to install a guy wire in order to fix it.

If flammable materials are laid on the roof, then at the end of the smoke exhaust structure you need to install a mesh - a spark arrester; the cells of such a device should be 0.5x0.5 cm. On a flat roof, the chimney is raised above its level above one meter.

The horizontal part of the chimney should not exceed a distance of more than one meter.

Places where elements meet must be left visible. They must not be left inside the roof slab.

Such a chimney in a bathhouse is very easy to assemble; it is done according to the principle of a designer. One end of one part is “seated” into the next part:

To do this, the volume of each element on one edge is slightly larger than the corresponding volume on its other side. The reliability of such connections is increased by clamps.

Correct installation system in the bathhouse is not possible without proper assembly of the structure. You should start by attaching it to the sandwich pipe of the sauna stove.

This type of work involves the use of a starting cone. One end of it is “seated” on the furnace pipe, and the second is connected to a straight section of the structure.

Often, a chimney in a bathhouse is a simple structure consisting of a pipe leading from the stove to the street. They pass through the roof and ceiling with a small number of turns and accessories.

Output through the ceiling

Installation of a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling is carried out as follows. To exit the ceiling covering, a special unit is installed, which creates reliable fastening and high fire safety:

Despite the fact that such a pipe is a two-layer structure with non-flammable thermal insulation in the middle, to increase the level of safety, a hole is made in the ceiling opening for the chimney to install a small pipe, which is 15-20 cm in diameter larger than the diameter of the chimney.

From the bottom, such a hole is sealed with a steel sheet. The part that ends up in the attic is filled non-flammable material. To do this you can take:

• basalt wool;
• sand;
• expanded clay

The insulation prevents the formation of large amounts of condensation in the sandwich, which is an additional advantage.

How you can do this yourself is described below.

1. For insulation you will need two rectangular pieces of galvanized steel, which are rolled into a cylindrical shape.
2. The lower pipe must be wrapped with insulating material. A larger pipe is placed on top and connected by rolling.
3. The clamp, cut from a sheet of iron, should have a width of 20 cm; its length should be equal to the length of the pipe part to be coated. The chimney is secured with it from the bottom and top.
4. The manufactured pipes are connected according to the diagram.

This simple installation scheme for sandwich structures can be used both when building a smoke wire constructor for the first time, and when replacing its parts if it burns out over time.

The sandwich technology is quite simple in its design and practically does not require any special skills.

How to make a cap with your own hands

To protect the sandwich chimney, it is necessary to equip the exit paths with a special cap. This will help avoid having to replace the furnace system in the coming years.

Video: making a weather vane + cap + chimney with your own hands

In addition, nowadays it is not difficult to find material for such a design. Focusing on the drawings, which are given as an example of work, you can quickly and easily complete all the steps by analogy yourself.

Consistency when working

The cap can have different shapes, among which the most common are curved, cone-shaped and flat round, square or rectangular surfaces.

To install the cap rectangular shape you need to familiarize yourself with the diagram below.

Metal sheet made of stainless steel (galvanized, copper and zinc alloys with metal can be used).

1. Tools for work.
2. Gloves.
3. Wind vane.

In order to make a cap yourself for the first time, it is better to first practice on cardboard paper. Having built one or two of these blanks, you will clearly understand the manufacturing process.

Video: DIY cap

In addition, based on them, you can make drawings on the front side of a metal sheet by tracing the outline of the cardboard. It is also necessary to draw on it all the lines that will be used for bends.

In the center of the picture on the galvanized sheet, drill a narrow hole with a diameter of 3-4 mm. The excess is cut off with metal scissors.

Using a sheet bender, you need to gradually bend all the parts so that you get the desired shape.

If you do not have this device, you can do this using available tools. At the same time, try not to leave any dents on the cap.

The 1 cm wide edge is bent inward at an angle of 45 degrees. To avoid discrepancies in the corners, you need to start with them, gradually moving towards the middle.

Now it’s worth checking for evenness. To do this, you need to place an even thin stick under the center of the resulting figure and stick it into a bowl with earth. If the assembly is performed correctly, there will be no advantage in any direction.

After all the main corners have been cleaned, processed, brought together and leveled, you need to attach the cap to the base. For this purpose, the products are connected using a special construction adhesive.

On top you can additionally decorate it with a weather vane, which will spin and show the direction of the wind. In order not to miss anything, use the attached video lesson “How to make a cap with your own hands.”

Final actions

At this stage, an adjustable apron is attached to the smoke exhaust and the smoke exhaust structure is increased to the required size.

The installation of a chimney in a bathhouse made from sandwich pipes will be done correctly if the ratio of its diameter, height and volume is correctly calculated. In this case, the type of stove and its power are also important. The possibility of traction and how well it will function directly depend on these factors.

Smoke vents in a Russian bathhouse of the classic type must be built fireproof and not contain many turns and bends. All your actions must be subject to the recommendations of professionals, and the hot heart of the bath room will work uninterruptedly for a very long time.

If there are still “ambiguities” in the calculations, then you should seek advice from professionals. The money spent on this is fully compensated by a perfectly functioning smoke exhaust sandwich device, and therefore by your good health.

Posts

To ensure comfort and safety indoors with stove design, it is necessary to correctly make the passage of the chimney through the ceiling. Fire safety is ensured by simple pipe installation rules. All work can be done with your own hands.

To exhaust the chimney through the ceiling, it is necessary to build a unit that provides the required distance from the ceiling materials to the pipe. These rules are regulated by a special document, which specifies certain recommendations:

• Distance from the surface of the concrete or brick chimney to the battens or rafters should be at least 13 centimeters.
• If the chimney is ceramic and without insulation, then the distance should be as follows: minimum 25 cm. And if there is a heat-insulating layer - 13 cm.

When installing beams, these rules must be taken into account. Their step should be about 60 cm. These recommendations apply to pipes with a layer of insulation.

The outlet pipe must have a diameter 11.5-12 cm. If a sandwich with a heat-insulating layer is laid through the ceiling, then the pipe should have a diameter of about 32 cm. On each side it is necessary to observe a distance of at least 13 cm. To calculate the distance between installed beams, you need 13 x 2 + 32, the result is 58 cm, which corresponds to the recommended 60 cm.

You can also calculate the distance of the pipe without insulation. If a pipe with an internal diameter of 11.5 cm., then the distance to the ceiling material should be at least 25 cm. In this case, there should be a distance between the beams 25 x 2 + 11.5, which equals 61.5 cm. This step is recommended for use when constructing a ceiling.

• If the partition is protected from possible fire, then when chimney thickness 12 cm, the distance should be about 26 cm. If the pipe is 5 cm thick, then the distance is 38 cm.
• If the partition is not protected from fire, then in the first case the distance can reach 32 cm, and in the case of the second option - up to 50 cm.

The document also states that you need to maintain a certain distance from the walls. Often the chimney pipe is installed near the surface of the wall, which over time can lead to a fire, since the temperature inside the chimney can be 500 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary to lay a heat-insulating layer on the surface of the wall with your own hands, and then cover it metal sheet.

Read also: Chimney cleaning

Types of nodes

The passage of the chimney through the wooden ceiling must be protected from high temperatures and the pipe must be secured in a special position. This is what cutting is intended for; its second name is “passage unit”.

It is recommended to use a commercially produced device. It is a special metal box, attached to it on one side galvanized plate. There is a hole in the middle for inserting a sandwich. A special plate is installed on the side of the room, which covers the hole in the ceiling and acts as a decorative element. The plate also serves as a support for the heat-insulating layer, which is laid in the gap between the beam and the surface of the pipe.

Many experts claim that stainless steel cutting is the best option, since galvanized sheets release harmful substances when exposed to high temperatures. Therefore, it is recommended to use stainless steel in a living room or bathhouse.

The ceiling unit is installed quite simply. If at the construction stage it was not planned to remove the chimney, then a hole of a certain size must be made between the beams so that the chimney can be installed. Then secure the heat insulator. To do this, you can use mineralite, stone wool or asbestos. Experts also recommend fixing metal strips.

A special device must be placed on the pipe in a straight section that passes through the ceiling. Then it needs to be raised to the required level and a thermal insulation layer secured around the edges. After this, the assembly is secured using self-tapping screws.

Products may have different configurations. In some cases, you may need a metal cylinder that fits around the hole and plate edges advocate for him a little. It should be noted that when installing such a device, the hole must also have square shape. The hole is closed using a plate. You should also protect ceiling materials from high temperatures using a heat insulator.

The unit may be without a cylinder, but it is installed around the perimeter special sides made of mineralite or metal. The edges of the device must be covered with a thermal insulation layer. It is recommended to use mineralite, as it acts as a heat insulator.

Read also: Spark arrester for chimney

Passage through the ceiling

When venting the chimney through the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

• There should be a metal pipe coming out of the oven without a heat insulator. Its length should be more than one meter, since the temperature at the outlet is too high. Above you can use a sandwich.
• Where it passes through the ceiling, the pipe must have a protected sheath. To do this, you can use an industrial sandwich or insulate the walls yourself.
• Joints are allowed only before or after the passage. Therefore, all connections need to be monitored.
• The horizontal section can have a maximum length of one meter.
• The entire chimney can have a maximum of three elbows.
• It is prohibited to use a rigid fastening, since under the influence of high temperature the dimensions of the chimney change.

Selecting a thermal insulator

When the device is fixed to the ceiling, you need to go up to the next floor or attic to fill the distance between the beams and the chimney with heat insulation.

If the temperature in the pipe does not exceed 600 degrees, then you can use basalt wool as an insulator. However, some experts do not recommend using this option. They explain this by the fact that during the manufacturing process they use resins as a binder, and they release harmful formaldehyde under the influence of high temperatures. In addition, it forms in the chimney condensate, and when wet, the thermal protection characteristics of cotton wool deteriorate. Therefore, this option is not the best.

You can fill the gap with fine expanded clay. This is a lightweight and natural material that, if wet, quickly restores its characteristics.

Until recently, sand was most often used. But in this case there is one significant drawback: over time, the material spills out through small cracks, so the stove must be constantly cleaned and the gap must be filled again.

You can use clay. To do this, it must be diluted so that it acquires a paste-like consistency.

Some experts do not recommend insulating the unit at all and leaving it unfilled. This allows you to avoid burnout of the chimney and its overheating. But this option is not the best, since wood will dry out over time, and there is a risk of fire.