Step-by-step laying of brick fireplaces - instructions. How to make a brick fireplace for heating your home with your own hands? DIY brick fireplace layout

Thinking about building or purchasing country house, almost every owner dreams of a beautiful fireplace.

They add graceful and romantic sophistication to the interior and allow you to truly enjoy the atmosphere home comfort.

In this article we will tell you in detail how to make a fireplace with your own hands, and our step-by-step instruction will allow even a beginner to cope with this difficult job.

Any fireplace, no matter what size or shape it is, consists of the following main parts:

firebox;
ash pan;
grate;
portal (body);
chimney.

The combustion chamber, in turn, can be open or closed type. If you have chosen a fireplace with a closed firebox, then the design will include additional elements: a damper, transparent doors made of heat-resistant glass.

The efficiency, service life and reliability of the fireplace are also affected by the materials from which it is made. You can build a fireplace entirely from brick, making the firebox part from heat-resistant (fireclay) material, and the rest of the structure from red ceramic.

Or you can purchase a ready-made cast-iron firebox, around which you can build a casing, a portal and a brick chimney.

Of particular importance is good thermal insulation combustion chamber, because if a fireplace is erected in a house made of wood, there is a high risk of fire. Therefore, great attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the fireplace and the protection of the flooring, walls, and roof.

There are several classifications of fireplaces: by the appearance of the portal, by the shape and size of the firebox.

If the width of the portal does not exceed 51 cm, then such a fireplace is classified as small.

Width up to 63 cm – medium.

Over 63 cm - for large fireplaces.

The combustion chamber is made of steel or cast iron. Purchasing a ready-made firebox will greatly facilitate the process of building a fireplace. In addition, a closed cast iron firebox looks very stylish in a modern interior.

Some experts recommend posting inner part cast iron or steel combustion chamber with fireclay bricks in order to minimize the contact of metal with fire, especially when it comes to steel. Under the fuel chamber, as a rule, there is a fuel basket.

Work processes in the fireplace occur as follows:

Logs and firewood are placed in the combustion chamber on the grate and set on fire.
The intensity of combustion is controlled by a slide valve, which opens or blocks access to oxygen. At open type fireboxes, the intensity of combustion can be adjusted only by the amount of firewood.
As wood is burned, the ash is collected under the grate, in a special ash pan, which must be cleaned regularly. The ash pan can be built-in, or you can make a retractable structure, which will greatly facilitate the operation process.
Gases from burning logs are discharged through a special pipe to the street. You can equip the chimney with a forced draft, which is a fan. In this case, you can regulate the draft by turning the fan on or off, which will increase the heat transfer of the fireplace.

The fireplace chimney can be made of steel or brick. You can also find ready-made ceramic structures on sale today, but their construction requires special skill.

When developing a fireplace design for your home, great attention should be paid to fire safety measures.

The construction of a fuel chamber is one of the most difficult and critical stages of work. The firebox is located under the chimney. A special role is played by the fireplace tooth, which is integral with the back wall of the firebox.

Base

As for the reason, in itself it can have a completely different size and shape. This is a structural part that is located under the fuel chamber. It depends only on the owners where exactly the firebox will be located: below the floor or at the level of the kitchen table.

The lower the firebox is located, the more heat it will produce, taking in the cold part of the air from below.

It is preferable to make a firebox under which it is located at floor level, but this is not always possible. In a multi-story modern cottage It is impossible to build a fireplace of this configuration, because the ash pan must be located under the stove. Ideally, this is a working basement where the foundation is built.

But you can implement another version of the ash pan by placing it below the hearth of the fireplace with a pull-out system. Then operating the fireplace will not cause any difficulties at all.

Separately, you should stop at the level of inclination of the back wall of the fireplace.

Here the opinions of experts are divided into 2 camps. Some argue that it should be built strictly vertically. Others insist on building the back wall of the fireplace at an angle of 300 inward. Why is this tilt necessary?

The masonry of the fireplace also depends on the size of the combustion chamber. So, for structures with increased heat transfer, it is necessary to install the walls “on edge”. The slope of the rear wall of the firebox provides improved heat reflection into the room area.

Portal

There are two options for covering the portal: straight and arched. In this case, the radius of the arch should be equal to half the width of the portal.

The arch is the most reliable portal covering. It transfers the entire vertical load of the top row of masonry. According to their shape, they, in turn, are divided into 3 types: arched, straight and semicircular.

A semicircular arch is ½ part of a circle. This option is the simplest and most reliable. The radius of curvature is equal to ½ part of the width of the firebox.

The beam arch is flatter than the semi-circular arch and is best used for wide fireboxes. Or, if you are forced to limit the height of the firebox.

Onion arch

The arched arch is not ½ of a circle, but only 1 sector of it.

And finally, a straight arch is suitable if you need a direct overlap of the fireplace portal. Despite its simple appearance, it is considered the most difficult to manufacture. Here it is necessary to very accurately calculate the angle of the brick cut.

The firebox located under the firebox usually has a rectangular or trapezoidal shape, and above the firebox there is an outlet where smoke rushes when wood burns.

A small bridge or overlap is built in front of this mouth, and a “tooth” is built behind it. Above the firebox there is a smoke bag (smoke collector), where smoke is collected and directed up the pipe. To regulate this flow, a damper is installed in the front part.

Types of fireplace: configuration and location

When starting a project to install a fireplace in your home, you first need to think about its location.

There are several options for placing this heating unit:

Central location. By placing a fireplace in the middle of the room, you certainly make it the main focus. It looks stylish and allows you to give the interior a special charm of country coziness. This arrangement also allows you to effectively warm the room, since warm air will circulate freely throughout the room.
But there is also a drawback to such a dislocation: the fireplace will occupy most of the area and interfere with movement. Therefore, if you are limited in square meters, then it is better to refuse this option.
Wall fireplace. One of the most common options, which has a lot of advantages: saving room space, efficient heating, the possibility of creating a separate recreation area, etc.
The only drawback is that you will have to take proper care of fire safety and lay an additional layer of insulation between the fireplace and the wall.
Corner fireplace. This option is suitable even for the most small room, since it takes up absolutely small area. Besides, corner design looks especially stylish. Another advantage of this arrangement is a simple ordering scheme that even a beginner in the stove business can handle.
If to build a free-standing fireplace you need to have a certain experience, knowledge and skill, since all the walls are visible, then the corner design will hide all the flaws. The main thing is to do the front part well; all other sides can be hidden from view with finishing materials.

The following factors must also be taken into account:

Basic rules for building a fireplace

In order for the fireplace to serve for a long time and delight you with its warmth, you must strictly follow the basic rules when constructing it:

A brick fireplace is built on a separate foundation.
To lay the firebox, you must use exclusively fireclay (heat-resistant) brick, which should not be tied to the main one.
In the places where the door and ash pan are installed, it is necessary to lay an asbestos cord and leave a gap for the expansion of the metal.
The inside of the combustion chamber should not be plastered.
The rear wall of the fuel chamber should be positioned at a slight angle.

Don't forget about the counter fire safety, because any structure that runs on solid fuel poses an additional risk.

Highlight fire safety When arranging a fireplace in a country house or in a country house, you need to install trims along the path of smoke.

If the wall is adjacent to the fireplace, then a heat-resistant material (basalt fiber, asbestos, felt, etc.) must be laid between it and the heating unit. The thickness of such an overlap should be at least 20-25 mm.

If the fireplace is installed on wooden floor, then it is necessary to lay along the perimeter a metal sheet or perform on the coating from ceramic tiles with an indentation of 30-35 mm on each side.

Within a radius of 150 mm from the chimney, where it passes through the ceiling, it is necessary to organize reliable thermal insulation from a double layer of clay-impregnated felt or asbestos fiber.

The chimney must operate autonomously with only one fireplace.

There are also certain fire safety rules when operating a fireplace:

Do not raise the fireplace to maximum temperature.
Carry out systematic cleaning of the fireplace from ash and soot.
The safe distance between the fireplace and the nearest flammable objects must be at least 70 cm.
Use only suitable fuel for your country fireplace.

Calculate the dimensions of the fireplace correctly

When designing and creating a drawing of a future fireplace, it is very important to correctly calculate its width and height.

Dimensions of elements, mm	Room area
	12 m2	15 m2	20m2	25 m2	30 m2	40m2
Portal width	400	500	600	700	800	900
Portal height	420	490	560	630	700	770
Firebox depth	300	320	350	380	400	420
Rear wall height	at least 360
Rear width	300	400	450	500	600	700
Smoke collector height	570	600	630	660	700	800
Section of a chimney with a rough inner surface	140*270	140*270	270*270	270*270	270*400	270*400
Section of a chimney with a smooth inner surface	140*140	140*270	140*270	270*270	270*270	270*270

The size of the firebox depends on the area of the room. Exists simple formula, which will allow you to correctly perform all the calculations:

We measure the area of the room and divide it by 50.

The resulting value is the size of the combustion window.

To heat a small room of 20 square meters, a fireplace with a firebox opening of 0.50 m2 is sufficient.

We also suggest using the table to correctly calculate all the necessary parameters for your future fireplace.

After calculating the width of the firebox, you need to decide on its depth. The heating efficiency of the fireplace directly depends on this parameter. According to the standard calculation formula, it is equal to 2/3 of the height of the firebox.

If you ignore this factor and, for the sake of appearance, decide to increase the depth of the firebox, this will directly affect the heat transfer of the fireplace.

Almost all the heat received from the combustion of wood will go through the pipe to the street. In this case, the fireplace will perform faster decorative function, delighting with the beautiful reflection of the fire. You will only have time to add firewood to the firebox.

When the depth of the combustion chamber is reduced in relation to its height, there may be a risk of smoke in the room.

In addition to the correct calculation of the firebox, great attention must be paid to the arrangement of the chimney, on which fire safety and good draft depend.

According to SNiP standards, the diameter of the chimney must be at least 150:170 mm. If you have chosen a chimney with rectangular cross-section, then its width should be equal to 1/10 of the size of the combustion chamber.

The height of the chimney should not be less than 5 meters. But sometimes, with high floor heights, you will need to raise the chimney even higher. In this case, we focus on the roof ridge and the pipe outlet location.

The figure shows how to correctly determine the height of the chimney.

Therefore, carefully calculate all these parameters before you start building a fireplace with your own hands.

How to make a fireplace with your own hands: step-by-step instructions and procedure

We provide a diagram of the laying of a fireplace with a fuel chamber of the following size:

The width of the portal is 62 cm.

Height – 49 cm.

The depth of the fuel chamber is 32 cm.

The chimney cross-section is 26*26 cm.

We will lay out the back part of the structure from ½ of a brick, and the sides from a solid one.

Step 1. Sketch and drawing

Whatever size and configuration you choose for your fireplace, you need to complete drawings and sketches before you start building it.

Drawing a sketch and completing the drawing.

Having decided on the place where you want to place the future fireplace, draw a drawing on paper. Now decide on the size of the unit and calculate each side. Do detailed drawing. Make sure that the smoke exhaust system will not reach the ceilings or beams. Decide on which side the vent will be located and what type of firebox there will be.

We prepare tools and materials.

You immediately need to decide what kind of cladding you will cover the fireplace with. If the structure is being prepared for jointing, then you need to purchase a red ceramic brick. If you plan to decorate with clinker tiles, then you can buy a more budget option.

We offer a detailed diagram for the construction of a red brick fireplace with a stone firebox.

For this we need:

Fireclay refractory brick for the combustion chamber (not lower than M200).
Red ceramic brick for the entire fireplace. – 250 pcs (not including pipes). You can additionally take 10% of the total quantity, taking into account defects and errors.
Mortar for laying the foundation (cement, fine sand, gravel and water).
Mortar for laying bricks.
Roofing felt for foundation waterproofing.
Boards for the construction of formwork.
Grate.
Blower.
Metal door.
Damper.
Metal rods and wire for reinforcement.
Metal wire 0.8 mm for dressing.
Asbestos cord.

Prepare the following tools:

Trowel for laying bricks.
Tape measure and marker.
Rule.
Grinder for turning bricks.
Building level, protractor and plumb line.
Stapler.
Shovel and bayonet shovel.
Bucket for solution.
Construction mixer or drill with attachment.
Rubber hammer for laying bricks.
Construction hammer for erecting formwork.

Step 2. Preparatory work

Construction of the foundation.

The construction of the foundation should be given Special attention, since all further operation of the fireplace depends on its reliability.

When arranging the foundation in an operating cottage, you must immediately take into account the location of beams, roof lintels, rafter legs etc.

Do not save time and effort and make a separate foundation for the heating unit, so that when shrinking, the general foundation for the house does not deform the structure of the fireplace.

When arranging the foundation for a fireplace on zero cycle building a house, this process will not cause any particular difficulties. You simply carry out the work of constructing the base of the fireplace according to a single scheme:

— excavation of soil to the freezing depth.

— creation of formwork;

— making an underlying layer of sand and crushed stone;

— waterproofing using roofing felt or polyethylene;

— reinforcement with metal rods;

- pouring the foundation on 2 bricks to the finished floor;

— technological break 20 days.

We have previously discussed in detail. The layout of the foundation for the fireplace is no different.

It’s another matter if you decide to build a fireplace in an already used house. This process will be accompanied by the stage of dismantling the floor covering at the location where the fireplace is installed.

To do this, use a marker to measure the required size of the fireplace according to the drawing, make a 15-20 cm indentation on each side and use a grinder to cut a hole in the floor.

Place the used boards aside and begin digging into the soil. Next, proceed according to the standard foundation pouring scheme.

After raising the base of the fireplace to the level of the finished floor, you will need to beautifully design the gap between the floor covering and the stone structure.

Advice! No matter how carefully you work, during the process of laying a fireplace, dust and dirt will inevitably form in the house. Before you start construction work, cover all furniture and floors with plastic.

Work to ensure fire safety.

When arranging a fireplace in wooden house, it is very important to protect the walls adjacent to it from overheating.

You can lay an asbestos sheet between the fireplace and the ceiling, or you can line the wall with ceramic tiles.

Preparing bricks for laying.

After the foundation has completely dried and set, you can begin construction.

Select all the bricks, sort them by size and soak the part you will be working with at this stage. This must be done so that it does not absorb moisture from the masonry mortar.

Before building a fireplace, according to the procedure, even experienced stove makers first lay out the bricks “dry”. This way you will be able to see all the difficult places that you will encounter and avoid serious mistakes that will be difficult to correct later.

Advice. When laying out the rows “dry”, number each row on the bricks and put a serial number. This way you will complete the task faster.

Step 3. Laying the fireplace

The fireplace must be built on a foundation that is well waterproofed. To do this, measure the size of the structure on a sheet of roofing felt, cut it out and lay it in layers on the base.

Now you can start laying the fireplace itself. To lay a fireplace, use a mortar that is also suitable for laying stoves.

Soak the red clay in a trough of water for several days.

To prepare the solution, combine 8 parts sand and 8 parts clay, add 1 part water and mix thoroughly with a construction mixer.

Now let's check its readiness. The consistency should resemble thick sour cream. If it turns out too liquid, you can add a little sand.

Dip the trowel into the solution and see whether the mixture flows off it or not. If it glass, leaving a thin layer of 2-3 mm, then the solution is ready. If it turns out thick, dilute with water.

In order to clearly erect the fireplace vertically, you can pull plumb lines. They will serve as a kind of beacon by which you will navigate.

The 1st row is the base of the fireplace.

The correct layout of the entire structure depends on it. For this row it is better to use masonry mortar with a small addition of cement. The recommended seam thickness is 5 mm. Check the level horizontally and diagonally, determine the angles with a protractor. They must be strictly 90 0.

If you want to give the shape of the fireplace base an unusual look, you can lay bricks on the edge on the base row. The base must be raised 25-28 cm to the level of the finished floor.

Maintaining the same thickness of the seam when laying a fireplace is not so easy, especially for a beginner. There is a little trick. Use for reference wooden slats 0.5 cm thick.

Make sure that the masonry mortar does not get on the front side, because we are building a fireplace “under the jointing”. After finishing the work, it will be troublesome to wipe off the frozen solution.

When placing a brick on the batten, press it gently with your hand and tap it over the entire plane with a rubber hammer. This way it will sit and grip well. Make sure that the solution is not squeezed out of the cracks.

The wooden slats are removed after 3-4 rows of bricks have been laid.

2nd row. It is laid out similarly to the first one with red brick, according to the diagram. We completely fill this row with bricks.

3rd row. Here we begin to build the bottom of the fuel chamber, laying fireclay bricks on the edge. There is no need to bind fire brick with red.

We install the grate, taking into account the gap for metal expansion of 3-5 mm.

Row 4 – we begin to form the firebox. Laying out several rows, wipe the bricks damp cloth so that the solution sets better. Here in this row we install the fuel chamber door. Consider the gap for metal expansion.

The door, for reliability, is mounted on a metal mustache, which is placed in the seam between the rows of bricks.

In the 5th row we install a blower.

8 row. We tilt the rear wall of the firebox at 30 0. This element is also called the “mirror” of the fireplace.

9-14 row. Let's start forming the arch.

The ceiling of the portal is largely determined by the design of the fireplace. This part of the work will not cause any particular difficulties.

The most simple option there will be the use of steel corners on which the bricks are placed. But with such masonry it is better to tile the fireplace in the future decorative material, which will close the steel corner.

Considering that we chose the option “with a fireplace panel,” we will not use this method.

In order to accurately make a semi-cylindrical arch, it is necessary to make a circle from a sheet of plywood.

We draw a circle on the sheet with a compass, divide it into 2 parts of the required radius (1/2 part of the width of the firebox) and cut out 2 semicircles using a grinder.

Place these 2 parts of the circle on the floor and insert 11 cm long blocks of wood between them. Fasten the structure with self-tapping screws. The circle is ready.

All bricks must be ground onto a wedge. How to accurately determine the wedge size. You can, of course, calculate it using a formula, or you can use a proven method manually.

Place the circle on the floor and attach 1 brick to it.

Take the thread and stretch it from the center of the circle to the upper left corner. Draw a pencil along the stretched thread.

Do the same procedure with right side- thus you received a batch of bricks with measured markings for the wedge. All that remains now is to carefully cut off the markings with a grinder. Be sure to number the bricks first so you can easily place them in the correct order.

Lay out the arch symmetrically, bringing the bricks from the corners to the center.

15-18 row. Making a fireplace tooth. This is the name of the protrusion in the fuel chamber, which prevents precipitation and ash from entering the fireplace and improves draft.

Step 4. Construction of the chimney

Chimney laying

Row 19-20. We are building a chimney.

21-22 row. We continue to build the chimney. In row 22 we install a fireplace damper.

23rd row we make a fluff, giving the structure a dovetail shape. The fluff or “otter” is done in the place where the chimney pipe is in maximum contact with the roof.

The height of the fluff can vary from 29 to 36 cm. A drain is placed above the fluff, which is laid out until it comes into contact with the roof. The size of the riser and chimney pipe must match.

There is a metal umbrella on top of the chimney to protect from precipitation and debris.

Step 5. Cladding work

In order to grout the fireplace joints, add clean sifted river sand to the clay solution and mix thoroughly. This mass should be thick and plastic.

Step 6. Putting the fireplace into operation

Considering that the fireplace is laid with wet bricks, before the first kindling, the structure must be thoroughly dried.

Natural drying occurs in the first week. To do this, simply open the door of the ash chamber and the firebox. And in the second week, you need to light the fireplace every day and not let it reach maximum heating. Check traction.

Instructions for laying a fireplace with a cast iron firebox and a metal chimney

The advantage of installing a chimney pipe made of steel (in our case, sandwich pipes) is that it can be removed through the wall. This greatly expands your options for placing a fireplace in your home.

To build such a fireplace, you will need the same tools as in the previous instructions, and from the materials you need to prepare:

Cast iron firebox with glass.
Sandwich pipe set.
Silicone sealant.
Clamps, tee.
Elbow 45 0 or 90 0 (depending on the location of the chimney structure).
Bracket for supporting the chimney pipe.
Mineral wool (to insulate the passage of pipes through ceilings).
Protective umbrella for the pipe (from precipitation and debris).

The arrangement of a separate foundation is carried out in a standard manner with the deepening of the soil, the construction of formwork and cementing.
Insulation of walls from the fireplace. The fireplace cannot be mounted close to the wall. Therefore, it is necessary to lay super insulation between the wooden wall next to which the fireplace will be located. If space allows, you can build an additional thin wall from sand-lime brick. Please note that in this case the wall must be built on the same foundation as the fireplace. Take this into account when designing. The size of the wall should exceed the size of the fireplace by 50-70 cm on each side.
Laying the base (2 rows are laid with solid bricks).
Construction of a pedestal - we lay out 4 rows of red brick in the shape of the letter P. If you have chosen a wide firebox, then the width of the pedestal should also be increased. Use cement-clay mortar when laying bricks. The pedestal will increase the heat transfer of the fireplace, because cold air will be taken from below and, passing through the firebox, rise up.
Ash pit installation.
On the 4th row of bricks we make grooves using a file and insert them into them metal corners ribs up.
We lay the 5th row of bricks, which will be the base under the firebox. We apply a layer of fireproof mastic on it.
We install.
You will need an assistant for this job due to the heavy weight of the structure. It is necessary to carefully lower the fuel chamber from bottom to top, at a distance of 5 cm from the back of the wall. While the mastic or fire-resistant glue has not hardened, check the degree of horizontal inclination with a building level. At this stage, you can still correct errors.
from sandwich pipes.
Brick lining of the firebox. After the firebox is connected to the chimney, it is necessary to cover it with bricks using heat-resistant glue or cement mortar.
When lining the firebox, it is very important to take into account the thermal gap of 5 mm between the cast iron wall and the outer casing. The order in this case is not important, since, in essence, you are building a brick box according to the dimensions of the finished firebox. At the stage of finishing the chimney, it is very important to ensure that the lining does not rest on the pipe.
Lining the chimney with plasterboard. Immediately according to the scheme, a frame is erected from a metal profile, onto which drywall is screwed with self-tapping screws.
It must be insulated from the inside with heat-insulating mats made of non-combustible material. In this case, they should be attached with the foil side to the firebox and chimney.
We cover the outer part with plasterboard.
Facing works. Any fireplace can be beautifully decorated facing material: clinker bricks, decorative stone, plaster, etc. Once completed facing works, you can perform flooring. Keep in mind that parquet or laminate cannot be laid close to the fireplace. The distance must be at least 80 cm.
Drying the fireplace and heating it.

When all the work is completed, you can decorate the fireplace with a stylish, hand-made fireplace.

It’s unlikely that anyone would argue that you can look at the flickering fire in the fireplace for an infinitely long time.

And if everything is strictly followed according to our instructions, then such a fireplace will delight you not only by creating a special aura of home comfort, but will also provide warmth, heating the house.

To make it easier for you to understand how to build a fireplace with your own hands, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with detailed video instructions.

Video. Fireplace masonry

Well laid out corner brick fireplace will be a wonderful addition to almost any interior. In this case, the unit will fully cope with the solution of space heating problems. You can handle the fireplace installation yourself. Read the following recommendations and get started.

To place a corner fireplace, you can choose a place near outside walls and near its interior. The most important thing is to determine the optimal procedure for installing a smoke exhaust pipe in accordance with current standards and regulations.

If a corner fireplace will be placed near the inner wall, above which there is a certain difference in the roof structure, this point must be taken into account - the chimney flue pipe must be installed above the ridge of the main roof.

During prolonged use of the fireplace for heating, the smoke exhaust pipe, and in parallel with it the rear wall of the structure, will noticeably warm up. In view of this, owners of buildings with wooden walls need to pay special attention to solving fire protection issues.

To install a private fireplace yourself, you must first of all establish its optimal dimensions for the specific heated room. The following guide will discuss the procedure for constructing a heating unit for a small room with an area of about 15-20 m2. If necessary, change the size of the unit in accordance with the characteristics of your specific situation.

After reading the proposed manual, you will master the basic principles of laying corner fireplaces and in the future you will be able to build a similar structure without outside help.

Optimal fireplace sizes

When determining optimal sizes design, it is necessary to take into account the indicators of the area, as well as the volume of the room, which will subsequently be heated by the constructed unit. Specifically, in this example, a fireplace is being built with a combustion chamber opening having an area of about 0.3 m2. You can change the suggested sizes in accordance with the conditions of your situation.

Determine the optimal dimensions of the firebox portal. In the case of the design under consideration, the portal is called the combustion hole. Its main parameters are width and height.

Adhere to the standard ratio, according to which the width should be in relation to the height as 3:2. In this example, the width of the portal will be 560 mm, and the height will be 400 mm.

Maintain the height of the fireplace portal and the depth of the fuel compartment as 2:1; a ratio of 3:2 is also acceptable.

These sizes are the most optimal. If the firebox has a greater depth, the heat transfer of the unit will decrease significantly. If the dimensions of the firebox are reduced, smoke will appear.

In the situation under consideration, the firebox should have a depth of 240-300 mm.

After determining the optimal dimensions of the combustion chamber of a corner fireplace, proceed to calculating the appropriate dimensions of the hole for the smoke exhaust pipe. Select the dimensions of this hole taking into account the dimensions of the combustion chamber hole. The size of the chimney opening should be approximately 10-15 times smaller than the area of the combustion chamber opening.

The optimal size of a rectangular chimney is 140x140 mm. If the cross-section of the chimney is round, make a hole with a diameter of 100-120 mm. Optimal height chimney - 350-400 cm. This figure may increase depending on the height of the roof ridge.

In order to improve the heat transfer characteristics of the unit, the rear wall of its firebox is laid out with a forward slope. This slope should begin to be created from about a third of the height of the firebox.

The design includes a smoke collector. It is installed above the combustion chamber. Between the mentioned elements, the so-called. cornice, also known as a pass. This element will prevent the emission of soot, sparks, etc.

If your fireplace is made of carved brick, make sure that all its dimensions exactly correspond to the standard masonry module. Typical sizes The building material in question is 25x12x6.5 cm. Maintain the masonry joint at a level of about 5 mm.

In accordance with the cross-section of the structure at the level of the combustion chamber, other dimensions of the structure being erected will be determined. Calculate them and draw up an order drawing according to which the brickwork will be made.

Also creating order and executing necessary calculations can be entrusted to a professional. If desired, all necessary project documentation can be easily found in open sources. Do what is most convenient for you.

What should the fireplace be made of?

After creating the order, calculate the required amount of building materials and purchase them in a specialized store. Material should be counted individually. And even incomplete products must be included in the calculation as whole elements. Additionally add about 10% reserve.

It is important that the brick is solid and properly fired. You can also use used bricks from a disassembled stove, if they are in good condition. It is enough just to clean the material from the remnants of the previous solution.

Lay out the firebox of the corner fireplace from fireclay bricks.

To prepare the solution you will need a number of materials. So, the sand for the solution should be quite coarse-grained (grains up to 1.5 mm). The sand must first be sifted and cleaned of various types of foreign inclusions.

Laying a fireplace will require the use of clay. The best option is Cambrian, also known as blue clay. But if you are confident in the quality of local clay, you can prepare a solution using it.

You also need to buy materials for arranging the foundation. This is ordinary Portland cement M400 and crushed stone with a diameter ranging from 20-60 mm.

Additionally, purchase a smoke damper and steel reinforcing bars. Rods with a length of 70 cm and a diameter of 10 mm or so are optimal. In the example under consideration, about 12 reinforcing rods are used. Depending on the dimensions of your fireplace, their number may vary.

Preparatory work

Work on arranging a corner fireplace begins with the construction of the base. It is strictly forbidden to connect the foundation of the structure under construction with the base of the main building - this will lead to very unfavorable consequences.

For determining optimal width foundation, add about 50 mm to the width of the front plinth row. Determine the length in accordance with the dimensions of the side row of the plinth. In general, the dimensions of the base should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the future fireplace.

When choosing a place for arranging the foundation and the fireplace itself, make sure that in the future the smoke exhaust pipe does not pass through the elements of the roof rafter system and beams.

The foundation is done extremely simply - dig a pit required sizes, the bottom of the pit is covered with waterproofing, a layer of a mixture of sand and crushed stone is poured on top, reinforcement is laid and the solution is poured.

Allow the foundation to gain strength and cover it with a double layer of roofing felt.

While the foundation hardens, begin preparing building materials for upcoming use. So, the clay must first be soaked in water for a couple of days. Soak the bricks for the same amount of time.

Pre-calibrate the bricks you have. Elements with significant deviations from the previously mentioned size cannot be used for masonry.

To prepare the solution, use a standard and proven recipe. Pour the dry sifted sand into the clay pulp, and then mix the resulting mixture thoroughly. Determine the required amount of water individually. The finished mixture should have the consistency of jelly.

Check the finished solution. To do this, roll a sample out of it into a “sausage” about 1.5 cm in diameter. If the sample does not stick to your hands, holds its given shape normally and does not fall apart, everything is fine.

Also check how the solution you prepared behaves directly on the brick. To do this, place the mixture on the building element. It is necessary that the solution does not stick to the trowel, does not fall apart and does not spread over the brick under its weight.

Fireplace masonry

Prepare the required drawings in advance. The list of drawings must include the order, section, and façade of the fireplace.

During the construction process, you will use not only whole elements, but also halves of bricks and even three-fours. Reflect this point in the drawings using special symbols.

When laying out the basement row, it is better to place the bricks on edge - this way the structure will look more interesting, but this requirement is not mandatory.

Starting from the 2nd row, lay the bricks flat. The bottom of the combustion chamber is usually located at a height of about 250-300 mm above the floor surface, which is a fairly comfortable indicator.

Start laying. We bring to your attention information about the laying order. To make it clearer, at each stage refer to the drawings you have.

First step

Lay out 1-3 rows of bricks. The rows are solid, no special recommendations. The main thing is that the masonry is as even as possible. It is more convenient to start with laying the corner elements.

Second step

Lay out the fourth row. It will represent the hearth of the corner fireplace.

Third step

Lay out the fifth row. At this stage, you need to arrange an ash pit-ash pit. Make a support for the grate from three strips of steel. The strips will be fixed by the sixth row of brickwork.

Place the soaked refractory brick on the clay mixture

Fourth step

Lay out the 6th row. At this stage of the masonry, lay the grate.

Fifth step

In the 7th row, lay out the lower frame of the fireplace portal.

Sixth step

Lay out the walls of the fireplace portal in 8-13 rows. Lay the bricks with bandaging masonry seams.

In parallel with this, in the 11th row, begin, and in subsequent rows, continue the construction of an inclined mirror near the rear fireplace wall.

Seventh step

In rows 14-15, close the fireplace portal. Continue laying out the mirror.

Eighth step

Finish arranging the mirror in the 16th row. At the same stage, build the top of the tooth. Be sure to coat the tooth with the clay solution on the side of the smoke exhaust element. This treatment will protect the material from burning under the influence of high temperatures.

Ninth step

Lay out 17-19 rows of brickwork. At this stage you need to lay out the front of the fireplace. The bricks must be cut in the direction of the hill.

Tenth step

Form a chimney in 20-22 rows. In the 22nd row, install a smoke valve.

Eleventh step

From the 23rd row to the end (in order), lay out the chimney.

Finally, the fireplace should be allowed to dry and then done finishing and additional decoration at your discretion.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself fireplace laying

Brick fireplaces, just like stoves, are popular and stylish solution with home heating, as well as a spectacular interior element. Considering the availability of modern building materials, tools, and technologies, building a fireplace or stove yourself is not very difficult.

Stone fireplace

Instructions for creating a brick fireplace include:

choosing the type of fireplace;
selection of material for masonry;
list of required tools;
masonry technology;
brick laying scheme (usually called ordering).

Types of fireplaces

The most common brick fireplaces are divided into two types: built-in and wall-mounted.

Built-in

Built-in fireplace

They are mounted inside a load-bearing wall, inside of which the chimney is located. This is enough difficult option For self-construction, and, as a rule, it is created in advance - even at the stage of designing the house.

Wall mounted

The most convenient option for self-laying. Such a fireplace can be installed in a country house or in a private house. with my own hands, even without having experience in this matter.

This can be done at any stage - both during the construction of the house itself and in the finished premises. The only thing you will have to tinker with if the masonry is planned in a residential building where renovations have been completed is the creation of a separate foundation for a fireplace or stove.

It is most convenient to make a brick fireplace, since brick is an inexpensive and common material, and it is easier to lay it flat.

Wall-mounted fireplaces are divided into two types: straight and corner. Corner ones are located in the corner, at the junction of two walls, they have quite compact dimensions, so they occupy less space. Making a corner fireplace is somewhat easier than making a straight one, but its arrangement is different and less material will be required.

Where to start construction?

Fireplace drawing

The construction of a brick fireplace must begin with a sketch. This is usually a hand drawing depicting the placement of a fireplace in a room, its appearance, type, principle of operation, shape of the portal, location of the chimney, ash pan, firebox, as well as other elements. Dimensions are approximate. Fireplace designs must take into account the placement of rafters and beams to avoid problems with the chimney.

The next stage is a drawing of the fireplace, which must be completed in more detail. The main thing is a side sectional view of the fireplace, which will show its structure.

A separate important element is the ordering scheme according to which the stove or fireplace is being built. There are many ordering schemes - you can choose from ready-made ones, or you can come up with your own, but it is still recommended to start with those already known.

Selection of materials

Fire brick for fireplace

A brick fireplace can be made from ordinary solid brick entirely, but for the interior decoration of the firebox it is best to use fireclay brick - it is much more fireproof, resistant to the effects of chemically active products formed as a result of combustion, and also heats up more slowly and retains heat longer.

For the solution, you can take a ready-made fireproof mixture, which is sold in construction stores. A simpler option is the classic combination of clay and sand, the exact ratio of which is selected experimentally. It is worth noting that the fireplace is laid without the use of cement (it is allowed to add it to the clay-sand mixture only in an amount of 10-20% when laying the base).

For a fireplace with a closed firebox, you will need metal doors with fire-resistant glass (a simpler option is all-metal doors, but then the fire will not be visible). If you plan to have a fireplace with an open firebox, then doors will not be needed.

You will also need venting and cleaning doors, plus dampers to regulate air flow.

For a chimney, a round pipe made of stainless steel is best suited.

The cladding can be done using plaster, ceramic tiles, or not done at all - leave the brick as is.

Required set of tools

To build brick fireplaces, a standard set of tools is required:

spatula or trowel (you may need both);
an ordinary and rubber hammer;
tape measure, plumb line, building level;
Sander;
shovel;
bucket, barrel or basin (for water and solution);
rule.

Rules for calculating dimensions

Fireplace insert drawing

When drawing up a drawing of a fireplace, certain rules must be taken into account, otherwise problems will arise with functionality. First of all, this concerns the size of the firebox. It is customary to make it rectangular, and the height should be in relation to the width 2:3.

Another formula is used to calculate the depth of the firebox: it should be 2/3 of the height of the portal. It is best to start drawings of fireplaces by calculating the dimensions of the firebox, because, knowing these dimensions, you can already calculate all other parameters.

To ensure that the drawing does not diverge from reality, there is generally accepted technique dry masonry - first the fireplace is laid out without mortar, then each brick is numbered (the row and its position in the row are indicated on it) - this layout makes it possible to make a stove or fireplace without errors.

To properly lay out a brick fireplace with your own hands, you need to adhere to the following scheme: the width of the portal should be chosen as a multiple of the size of half a brick, and the height of the portal should be selected so that it is a multiple of the height of the brick, plus a 0.5 cm layer of mortar, i.e. in total - 7 cm.

Foundation preparation

Fireplace foundation

The fireplace is laid on a separate foundation, which should not be connected to the main foundation of the house. The dimensions of the foundation should exceed the dimensions of the fireplace by 20-30 cm. The depth of the foundation should be about 50 cm. The foundation pit is filled with sand mixed with gravel, and each layer must be carefully compacted.

After filling the foundation pit, formwork is installed from wooden planks, at least 15 cm high. Placed inside the formwork metal grid or a grid made of reinforcement with a cell size of 10*10 cm.

The formwork is poured with a solution consisting of gravel, cement, and sand (ratio - 4: 1: 3). The solution dries completely in about 30 days, after which it can be covered with an outer layer - a cement-sand mixture (1:3), and insulated on top with two layers of roofing material.

The fireplace is laid on a completely finished foundation.

Masonry principles for brick fireplaces

The laying of fireplaces can have a different order, but some principles are the same for any option:

It is customary to lay the first row of bricks on edge, and the subsequent rows - flat;
the first two rows are called the base of the fireplace (or stove);
the bottom of the firebox must rise above the floor by at least three rows of brickwork;
the brick should not have breaks, chips or cracks;
Before laying, it is recommended to soak red solid brick in water so that it is saturated with moisture (when, immersed in water, it stops releasing air bubbles, which means the brick has absorbed enough moisture);
there is no need to soak the fireclay brick in water - it will be enough to remove dust or dirt from its surface with a damp cloth;
the thickness of the seam should not exceed 0.5 cm;
you need to apply such an amount of mortar to the brick so that the mortar does not go beyond the boundaries of the brick;
if excess mortar appears somewhere between the seams, it should be removed;
It is best to start laying from the corners, checking them plumb and level;
if the brick has been cut, then the edge remaining after the cut must be walled up in mortar;
the mortar for laying brick fireplaces should not contain lumps, should not be runny or stick to your hands, and should be homogeneous;
It is best to do fireplace masonry in the warm season - then the solution will dry faster (this is especially true for the foundation);
You cannot coat the inside of the fireplace with the solution.

Key elements that make up a fireplace

Composition of a fireplace for wood

The standard layout of a brick fireplace includes the following elements (moving from bottom to top as the masonry proceeds):

base;
ash pit (a bunker located under the grate, the purpose of which is to collect ash);
the firebox is the space into which fuel is placed and where it burns;
mirror – the back part of the firebox wall, inclined forward at an angle of about 20°, and starting from a height of 30% from the bottom of the firebox (the purpose of the mirror is to reflect thermal energy, directing it from the portal into the room);
a smoke tooth is a protrusion formed by the end of a mirror, which has two main functions - preventing soot from entering the chimney into the firebox, and also preventing cold air currents from the chimney from entering the firebox;
hailo is a smoke collector in which smoke and various gases are collected before exiting into the chimney pipe (it provides draft in the desired direction, and also prevents smoke, sparks, soot from entering the room, due to the fact that the heated gases accumulated here go into the cold outdoor air). air chimney);
damper - a damper located between the fireplace and the chimney, which separates the chimney from the chimney pipe (its function is to regulate the power of cold and hot air flows).

Interesting projects: a fireplace with a barbecue

Brick fireplaces can be different, including outdoor ones. One of these options is the popular project of a street (outdoor) fireplace, which contains a barbecue. This grill is well suited for cooking shish kebab, barbecue, and other hot dishes.

An outdoor fireplace, which includes a barbecue, can be wall-mounted or island-mounted. It features a simplified chimney and also does not have a damper in the chimney pipe. As additional elements The fireplace with barbecue has a barbecue grill and a countertop. Most brick fireplaces with barbecues are built under a canopy to make cooking more convenient.

Video: Mini fireplace for a country house - do it yourself

Mini fireplace for a country house - do it yourself

Making a fireplace out of brick is quite difficult. To create a high-quality and productive structure, you will first need a well-designed order or project. The design features of the equipment and the materials used for assembly play an equally important role.

A fireplace with your own hands can be placed in a private country cottage, and in a country house. First of all, this heating variation is suitable for those rooms in which there is no other source of receiving and generating thermal energy. Such a stove can be installed in a house made of brick or wood. It is also possible to install in a building made of logs or gas silicate block. A properly designed fireplace design allows you to efficiently heat not only a small house, but also a fairly large and even two-story house. The efficiency of such a design can reach about 80-90 percent. This is considered a high and good indicator.

Selecting the dimensions of the structure

A fireplace, the masonry of which is carried out according to a pre-selected order on the Internet or drawn up by a professional stove maker, can have not only a certain placement method, but also a size. The choice of this parameter depends on certain parameters and features:

The size of the room chosen for installation of the heating unit plays a big role;
Pay attention to the way the fireplace is located in the living room interior;
Pay attention to the choice of equipment type;
Take into account what material the frame of the house, foundation, walls, floor, ceilings are made of;
What matters is what functionality the stove has.

Before you build a stove with your own hands, remember that the order should correctly reflect not only the amount of materials, key features heating device, but also no less important details. For example, dimensions fireboxes should be based on a proportion of 1/90 in relation to the total area of the selected room.

It is necessary to select the height and width of the combustion opening using the proportion 1.5/1. Also, the fireplace diagram is not complete without identifying the depth, which will be less than the width parameter on average by half. The chimney must also have a correctly selected cross-section. It can be determined by reducing the area of the combustion hole by 14-21 times.

For example, if the room area is 30 square meters, the following values will be suitable for such a unit:

The combustion hole will have a size of 0.30 square meters;
The firebox will have a width of 45 centimeters;
With a height of 65 centimeters;
Depth 25 centimeters;
The round cross-section of the chimney will be equal to 0.030 square meters or 300 square centimeters.

Choosing a location method

The arrangement of the fireplace plays a key role in the assembly and successful operation of the heating device. However, what is equally important is what type of location the stove will have in the interior.

Main placement methods:

Wall-mounted fireplaces are massive. To assemble such a structure you will need a fairly large amount of materials and cladding. This option is convenient to place, has a good viewing angle, and several people can sit near it at once. The advantages also include high efficiency and good productive work. The portal is symmetrical; the facade part is most often assembled in a U-shaped shape. The fireplace, for which both standard and refractory bricks are used, has a chimney in a wall location, which is covered with bricks up to ceiling;
If the room selected for installation does not have large area, we recommend installing a corner fireplace in it. This option, with a fairly good viewing angle, is small in size. The arrangement of a corner type oven does not require a large amount of brick. In this case, only the facade part will need to be clad, since the role of the sidewalls is played directly by the walls or partitions of the room themselves. Despite its small size, the corner hearth has a fairly high power and is suitable for heating rooms with an area of 15-35 square meters;
The design of an island-type furnace is difficult to construct. To build such a structure will require a lot of time, large cash investments and experience. An island fireplace is installed in the center of the room and is not adjacent to walls or other ceilings. The portal can be equipped with small walls and a firewood rack. To remove smoke and combustion products from the room, the stove is supplemented with a suspended exhaust system or, in other words, a chimney. The base usually has a classic square or rectangular shape (profile). Structures of round, triangular, multifaceted shapes are more difficult to construct. Particularly popular are designs consisting of several levels. For additional functionality, you can equip the portal with a tabletop or mantelpiece.

The fireplace, the dimensions of which are selected individually, can be installed not only in the house, but also outside, in a gazebo. Such outdoor and garden barbecues and barbecues can be located either completely separately or built into gazebos and verandas. The advantages of such structures include the ability to make them quite large and bulky. This way you can add many various elements barbecue

Street and garden stoves Due to their large dimensions, they are heavy and require the construction of a solid concrete foundation. This will prevent the structure from sinking underground or losing its stability over time.

A barbecue or barbecue oven project also requires an individual approach, careful selection of placement and functionality. If you plan to combine an outdoor fireplace with a gazebo or veranda, you should not use only brick for construction, as it is very expensive. The materials most often chosen for gazebos are: plastic, metal profiles, wood, fire-resistant plastic. The stove itself, columns, various partitions, small walls, and the area near the combustion compartment are assembled from bricks.

Equipment classification

Before you build a Swedish stove or any other structure, you need to remember that any heating equipment consists of a portal, which acts as a protection for the firebox and its decorative design. Most often this element is assembled from brick. Can be lined with any heat-resistant materials. To place logs and burn them, the structure is equipped with a firebox or combustion compartment. To prevent smoke from immediately escaping into the street and creating heat, the stove is supplemented with a smoke collector. To remove smoke and combustion products, wood-burning stoves are equipped with a chimney.

An open firebox design means there is no door. In this case, special attention must be paid to the internal walls of the combustion chamber, making them as thick, durable and airtight as possible. For laying the walls, only fireclay bricks and an adhesive composition based on fireclay clay are used. Also, the fireplace insert can be of a closed type.

A closed firebox is safer to use. It prevents sparks and flames from entering the room. However, an open firebox looks more harmonious and allows you to contemplate the bright flame, enjoy its crackling and warmth to the fullest. Moreover, giving preference open design, you save yours cash, which could have been spent on purchasing a steel or cast iron chamber with a door.

In order to protect the room from fire, the space next to the firebox must be insulated with any fireproof material.

If you want to equip a stone portal with a purchased firebox, the walls of the stove can be assembled from simple brick, because additional protection will be formed due to cast iron sidewalls.

A closed firebox is most often equipped with a door made of transparent tempered glass, which allows you to see the fire burning in the hearth in as much detail as possible. The method of opening such a door can be either the classic side or the top. Many modern fireboxes are equipped with a self-cleaning system - this prevents soot and soot from forming on the glass.

Fireplaces of wall and corner type are equipped steel pipes, which do not have a very presentable appearance. In order to hide and at the same time decorate such a chimney, it is enclosed in a box made of brick. The laying of the chimney is also carried out according to a previously drawn up order. Such a box not only improves the appearance of the structure, but also enhances, further insulates and accumulates accumulated heat.

Most often, stylish steel hoods that are hung directly above the hearth itself are purchased as a set for an island fireplace.

Making calculations

The size of the fireplace directly depends on the size of the room, as well as your personal needs and preferences. The dimensions of the structure are indicated in detail in the diagram. The order of the fireplace indicates how much material is needed for construction. It is important to know how much cladding, standard and refractory bricks you will need and purchase all materials with a small margin.

It is equally important to know how much masonry mortar you will need. It is important to take into account not only the main masonry, but also the construction of an additional foundation. Mostly cement marked M 200 is used as masonry mortar. To obtain the required mass, it is necessary to mix cement and sand together based on a 1/3 ratio. Next, gradually add water until a thick, homogeneous composition is formed, without lumps or dirt. In order to lay one cubic meter of brick, on average 0.2-0.3 cubic meters of composition will be required.

You can calculate the dimensions of the fireplace in more detail using your own order. In order to find out how many bricks are needed, you need to multiply the volume of one unit by the total number of bricks in the scheme.

A professional and well-designed project has not only a frontal, but also a horizontal projection. This allows you to make all the calculations as simply and thoroughly as possible, to see the shape and outline of the fireplace on both sides. If the design of the stove is more complex, you can separately calculate and draw the arch, shelf and others structural elements. This will allow you to determine the location and location of the smoke collector, ash pan, chimney, and identify the angle of inclination of the walls and niches.

In our online store you can buy a ready-made firebox for corner, island or wall portals, domestic and foreign brands.

Execution of work

After you have chosen a location for the fireplace, calculated the amount of materials, designed and made a detailed order, you will need to purchase the following materials and tools:

A reservoir in which the adhesive base will be mixed. It should be large enough, at least 40 liters. For better mixing, it is best to get an electric mixer;
In order to sift sand, you will need to buy a special sieve;
Laying is carried out using a trowel;
To check the evenness of the corners, a building level is required;
Get a tape measure, a square and a ruler;
Marks are made using a simple pencil or construction marker.

Additionally, you may need such items as: a hammer, rags, a knife, sandpaper and others.

Before you start work, prepare the room, cover all the furniture and interior items that are in it. To make it easier to connect the tool, take an extension cord.

Do-it-yourself installation of a brick fireplace is carried out according to the following stages:

Any massive structure begins to be erected only after the foundation is built. It can have either a strip or a concrete, block or brick base. If you are going to pour mortar into a pit, formwork is required. In this case, the construction of the furnace occurs only after the foundation is completely dry;
Next, we begin laying the rows. Each row is pre-laid dry, the evenness and thickness of the seams between the bricks is checked. Periodically, to strengthen the structure, the rows are ligated. All adjustments are made before the adhesion composition dries;
After the firebox and fireplace portal are erected, we proceed to laying the chimney. the hood is fixed to a horizontal partition. We provide surface insulation. If the pipe is metal, it is best to enclose it in a brick box;
On last stage facing work is being carried out, the damper, shelf, grille, and countertop are being installed.

The Kuznetsov stove or any other heating device cannot be heated immediately after construction. It is necessary to allow it to shrink and dry well for 10-15 days. After which the furnace gradually begins to operate. Firewood is placed in the firebox exactly halfway, gradually increasing.

From this video you can learn how to make a brick fireplace with your own hands at home or in the country:

Every owner of a country house strives to organize comfort in his home. An open or closed fireplace creates a special atmosphere, which will have a calming effect and warm you in the cold months. In order to make the heat source safe and efficient, you can build a corner fireplace stove with your own hands. This will require drawings of such a structure and bricklaying skills.

What is a fireplace stove, its advantages and disadvantages

A fireplace stove is a unit or capital structure made of fire-resistant materials that accumulates heat from the source of flame in the combustion chamber.

These structures are most often used as heat sources and comfortable elements dacha interiors, country houses and private households.

Fireplace stoves have a number of advantages and disadvantages, which are expressed in the following criteria:

Table: advantages and disadvantages of fireplace stoves

Advantages

Flaws

the design of the wall structure is designed to heat rooms up to 100 m², which makes it universal for construction in both country houses, and country households;
the angular design allows you to save usable space, and the shifted symmetry of the shape makes it possible to choose the best option;
has a high efficiency, since heating is carried out not only as a result of convection of hot flows, but also as a result of thermal radiation. This design property allows you to raise the temperature inside the rooms from 0 ° C to +25 ° C over a period of time from 60 to 120 minutes.
a fireplace stove erected in the corner of a room can heat several rooms.

if the design of the fireplace stove is not equipped with a fuel chamber door, then the heat is not retained inside, and the walls quickly cool down;
high cost of construction;
For independent construction, special knowledge and skills in construction will be required.

Design features and principle of operation

The design of the fireplace stove consists of two main elements - the combustion chamber and the chimney system. The degree of efficiency and productivity of the heating structure depends on how accurately the ratios of their parameters are calculated.

The operating principle of the fireplace stove is that the flame in the combustion chamber burns when the chimney is open (at the upper end). Smoke removal is carried out under the influence of draft, the power of which depends on the length of the pipe. Effective heat radiation occurs during combustion of the combustion material, but as it burns, the heating is significantly reduced. To increase heat transfer, the fireplace stove is equipped with a convection chamber. This modernization allows air to circulate from the room into it, and heated air back.

Like any permanent structure, the fireplace stove has a solid foundation.

For fire safety purposes, the structure is equipped with a flood platform. It is placed on the floor in front of the fireplace. For this purpose, non-combustible materials are used - metal, stone, fire-resistant brick or tile.

In accordance with fire safety standards, such a platform should be made 30–35 cm wider than the perimeter of the fireplace stove.

Above the platform there is an ash pan cavity and a fuel chamber. The space between these compartments is equipped with a grate. This increases the efficiency of the heating structure, since a place is created under the burning combustion material to dump the burned material.

Designs with a closed combustion chamber are equipped with a special blower, thanks to which you can change the heat power inside the fireplace stove. This makes it possible to extend the burning time, thereby saving fuel material.

All surfaces of the fireplace stove that come into contact with an open flame are lined with fire-resistant materials. This is necessary, since the temperature in these areas of the fireplace reaches and sometimes exceeds + 1000 °C.

To enhance heat radiation, the back wall of the fireplace stove is equipped with sheets of stainless steel or cast iron. For greater heat transfer, the rear wall of the combustion chamber is built at an angle forward. Thereby heat flows are directed towards the platform, additionally heating the floors.

A smoke collection chamber (hilo) is installed above the combustion chamber. It has an irregular shape, resembling a truncated pyramid, in the front of which there is a special barrier. This barrier prevents cold air currents from mixing with combustion products and also prevents smoke from entering the room.

The rear wall of the smoke collection chamber is equipped with a special protrusion (fireplace tooth), which keeps accumulated gas from entering the room.

The fireplace tooth prevents soot from falling into the combustion chamber. To clean this area of the fireplace stove, a door is installed near it.

The smoke collection compartment (hilo) and the chimney system are separated by a metal valve. This element serves to block the path of warm flows from the room to the outside after the wood has burned out. The valve is also used to adjust draft.

The chimney system pipe is built according to the same principle as in other heating structures. To ensure good traction, its height must be at least 500 cm from the base of the combustion chamber.

Calculation of basic parameters

The efficiency of a fireplace stove depends on the correctness of the parameters of all its elements. A discrepancy in the calculations will lead to a significant reduction in heat transfer or some of the smoke from the combustion chamber will escape into the room. Therefore, to build the correct design of a fireplace stove, the following rules must be observed:

The size of the combustion chamber window should not be more than 2–3% of the area of the heated room.
To determine the area of the bottom surface, it is necessary to multiply the quadrature of the combustion chamber window by 0.7.
It is recommended to make the width of the combustion chamber in the range from 20 to 40% greater than its height.
To calculate the depth of the combustion chamber, you need to multiply its height parameter by 0.7.
It is recommended to make the diameter or cross-section of the chimney pipe at least 10% of the square footage of the firebox window. At the same time, it is not recommended to make its channel smaller: 150x280 mm for brick construction, with a diameter of 160 mm - for a pipe.
The chimney pipe must be laid out so that it is conical in shape.

In order not to make mistakes in calculations, you can use ready-made tables and projects of such structures.

Calculation of bricks

To obtain an accurate calculation of bricks, it is necessary to use ready-made ordering schemes. The amount of building material depends on the specific design of the fireplace stove. In the proposed schemes, half or smaller shares of the material should be counted as whole bricks. In this case, their total number must be multiplied by 1.2.

The resulting value will make it possible to purchase material with a small margin. This is necessary, since the bricks may be damaged during transportation or unloading, and some of them may be defective.

For the construction of a fireplace stove built according to the scheme indicated below, about 360 pieces of red brick and about 60 pieces of fireclay will be required.

Calculation of foundation and mortar for masonry

When calculating the mortar for masonry, you should be guided by the fact that with a layer thickness of 3 mm, you will need one bucket of the mixture for 50 bricks.

Knowing the parameters of the material used, it is easy to calculate how much concrete and sand will be required to install the slab base.

The foundation for a corner fireplace stove will have the shape of a cylinder sector, the angle of which is 45 degrees.

To calculate the volume of concrete of this shape, you need to remember school course geometry, namely the formula for finding the volume of a cylinder, which has the following form: V=πR²h, where π is a mathematical constant expressing the ratio of the circumference to the length of the diameter, equal to 3.14, R is the radius, h is the height of the figure.

The length of each side right angle the figures can be easily calculated if you know the parameters of the brick.

According to the diagram of the laying of the rows of the stove-fireplace, it is clear that these sides have 3 lengths of the bed side of the brick and one length of the butt side. In an example, it looks like this: 0.25+0.25+0.25+0.12=0.87 m. The foundation for the fireplace stove must be made on each side 10 cm larger than the structure itself: 0.87 + 0.1 = 0.97 m.

For example, the height of the foundation will be 10 cm.

Now you need to substitute the values into the formula to find the volume of the cylinder. The result obtained must be divided by 4, since the sector of the cylinder has its fourth part. The formula will be: V=(π·R²·h):4. Let's substitute the values: 3.14·0.97²·0.1=3.14·0.94·0.1=0.295:4=0.073 m³ of concrete mixture will be required to fill a foundation of this shape.

Video: corner brick fireplace

Required materials and tools

To build a fireplace stove, you do not need any special equipment. All the tools necessary for this can be found at every owner:

Bayonet and shovel.
Big crowbar.
Hand-held circular saw.
Hacksaw.
Building level.
Yardstick.
Plumb.
Large square.
Rule for leveling a concrete base.
Containers for water and masonry mixture.
Deep vibrator.
Trowel.
Mallet with a rubber striker.
Pliers.
Hammer.

To fill the foundation you will need the following materials:

Material for waterproofing. You can use roofing felt or thick polyethylene.
For the manufacture of reinforcing bars - reinforcing bars with a cross section of 0.8 cm.
Sand.
Fine-grained (from 20 to 30 mm) crushed stone or large granite screenings.
For the manufacture of formwork - edged boards, plywood or OSB boards.
Concrete mixture grade M 300 or M 400.
Nails and screws for strengthening formwork.
Wire or plastic clamps for fastening reinforcing bars.
Fireclay brick of SHA brand 8 standard parameters.
Red refractory brick grade M 150 in regular sizes.
Facing material.
Cement.
Clay.
Metal corners made of steel with a shelf width of 50x50 or 60x60 mm.
Metal gate valve.
Insulating heat-resistant material made of asbestos or basalt.

Convenient to use as a masonry mixture ready material from hardware stores. Such mixtures are specialized for the construction of such structures.

Preparatory work, choosing a location

For a fireplace stove of this shape, there are not many places for installation. However, even from the four corners it is necessary to choose the correct location.

A large room or hall with an area of at least 20 m² is best suited for a fireplace stove, since it full-fledged work necessary large volume air.

Furnace specialists recommend building corner fireplace stoves near interior walls rooms. This is due to the fact that the fireplace, with this arrangement, does not lose its heating capacity, and problems with the operation of the chimney system are also eliminated.

It should be noted that the fireplace stove should not be installed near doors and windows, since strong air currents arise between the combustion chamber and the opening, which can lead to loss of heat radiation or a fire.

If the fireplace stove is equipped with a closed combustion chamber, then the draft inside the structure will be constant regardless of the location.

Do-it-yourself stove-fireplace: step-by-step instructions

It is most convenient to lay the foundation for a fireplace stove at the stage of pouring the strip foundation for the house. If the house has already been built, then the installation of the foundation will be preceded by the dismantling of the floor covering.

It should be noted that the concrete foundation for heating structures cannot be connected to the foundation of a residential building. Between the bases it is necessary to leave a distance of 50 to 100 mm. If this is neglected, the massive structure of the house will shrink over time. As a result, the elements of the fireplace stove will shift or become deformed, forming cracks and gaps. The integrity of the structure will be compromised, which will affect its functionality and performance.

Laying the foundation

To lay the foundation, you must perform the following steps:

Make markings indoors at the future location of the fireplace stove. To do this, you need to mark the dimensions of the foundation on the wall with a marker.
Disassemble the floor covering. Using a plumb line and a building level, extend the marking downwards.
Do not remove the wooden logs at this stage until the foundation of the fireplace stove is brought to their level.
Using the same tools and marks on the wall, determine the exact location of the base on the floor of the basement level of the house.
Using a crowbar and shovels, dismantle the floor down to the foundation of the house.
Dig a pit with a depth equal to the base of the house and a width 10–15 cm larger than the structure of the stove-fireplace. If the construction site is dominated by sandy or sandy loam soil, the walls of the pit may crumble. To avoid this, you need to cover them with polyethylene.
Level and thoroughly compact the bottom of the hole.
Pour in sand to create a layer thickness of 10 cm. Please note that wet sand compacts better.
Place the same layer of gravel on top of the sand cushion.
From boards or plywood sheets make formwork for pouring the foundation.
Drive one into each corner of the pit. wooden block. The formwork panels will be attached to them. If the formwork is made of boards, then there will be gaps between them, through which the earth will spill out. To avoid this problem, you need to wrap the finished shield in polyethylene.
Use roofing felt or thick polyethylene to make waterproofing.
Make a reinforcing frame for a concrete base from reinforcing bars with a cross-section of 0.8 cm. Make the width of its cells no more than 10x10 cm. Secure the intersections of the metal rods using wire, electric welding or plastic clamps. All metal structure should not lie on waterproofing. Therefore, it can be placed on halves or fragments of bricks.
Pour concrete mixture grade M300 or M 400 inside the formwork. Using a deep vibrator, remove air bubbles from the uncured base. Liquid concrete should completely cover the protruding parts of the reinforcement cage.
Cover the foundation with waterproofing material. This will allow the concrete to harden evenly. After 3-4 weeks the base will completely harden.
Now you need to saw off the wooden floor joists. Their ends will be located on the foundation of the fireplace stove.
The base is ready for laying brick rows.

Preparation of masonry mixture

Construction stores are replete with a variety of solutions and heat-resistant mixtures for laying stoves, fireplaces and other heating structures. However, experienced stove specialists recommend resorting to an old and proven method - using a clay solution for this purpose. To do this, it is necessary to use fatty grades of clay, the best of which is blue clay.

When dry, blue clay does not crack.

The material is pre-soaked in water for a couple of days. During this time the clay becomes viscous. Its consistency will resemble liquid cottage cheese with lumps. To ensure that the material has a uniform structure, it is filtered through a large sieve, kneading the lumps.

The prepared clay will allow you to make a masonry joint with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm.

To obtain a solution, you need to add sand to the clay. To do this, it is recommended to use coarse river sand, which is added before starting brickwork.

To determine the quality of the resulting solution and the correct proportions, the material is rolled into a ball the size of a medium-sized apple. Then it is placed between two planks, and they are slowly squeezed. During this process, watch for the appearance of cracks in the clay:

if they appear immediately after squeezing, this indicates a large amount of sand in the solution;
if the ball is compressed to half its height, and no cracks appear, this indicates a lack of sand;
the proportions of sand and clay are considered ideal if cracks appear when the ball is compressed by 1/3.

Step-by-step instructions: features of brickwork

In order not to get confused in the rows of masonry, even experienced stove makers do it first without mortar. It would be useful to print out the order diagram.

Before starting brickwork, it is necessary to cover the concrete base with waterproofing, and only after that they begin to build the fireplace stove. This process consists of several stages:

It should be noted that the first rows must be made perfectly even, as they will become the basis for the entire structure. As shown in the diagram, they are laid out in a continuous layer. Using a square, a plumb line and a building level, achieve strict perpendicularity. Before laying, bricks must be soaked in water for 1.5 - 2 hours.
The second and third rows form a storage area for heating material. This niche is covered with two rows of bricks with a small (up to 3 cm) overlap of upper masonry on the front side of the fireplace stove.
Starting from the fifth row, lay out the base of the fuel chamber. To do this, use fireclay bricks. The depth of the chamber will be 460 mm. The size of the fireplace stove is (630x490 mm).
From the sixth to the eighth row, build up the walls of the fireplace stove with the back side of the firebox tilted. That tilt will form a stone tooth in the future. At this stage you will need a hand-held circular saw with stone cutting circles. The ordering diagram shows incomplete or sawn-down bricks.
From the ninth to the eleventh row, build up the walls of the fireplace stove in accordance with the diagram.
In the twelfth row, lay two steel corners 60 cm long. The shelves of the corners must be placed inside the chamber, horizontal to its base.
The thirteenth and fourteenth rows form the front overlap of the firebox window. Bricks must be laid on the tray side, while the fireclay material should be placed with inside combustion chamber.
The fifteenth row forms the transition from the firebox to the chimney system. At this stage, the smoke tooth is formed and the back wall is built.
The sixteenth and seventeenth rows form the shelf of the fireplace stove, so the bricks must be laid with an outer shift.
From the eighteenth to the twentieth row, the design provides for narrowing. At this step, a smoke collection chamber is formed.
From the twenty-first to the twenty-fourth row a chimney is laid out.
From twenty-fifth to twenty-seventh - an increase in the transition section of the chimney. At this stage, a metal valve is installed.
Subsequent orders determine the height of the chimney.

Features of chimney installation

The inner surface of the chimney pipe is a straight channel, but it outer part has design features.

At the intersection of the floor beam, the chimney has an expansion. This design element is important because it reduces the temperature of the outlet streams. As a result, there is no need to make additional thermal insulation in this place.

At the level of the intersection of the roof, the chimney has an extension. This feature protects the brickwork from harmful effects atmospheric precipitation.

The smoke channel is also protected in the form of a metal cap. It is recommended to equip the chimney with a spark arrester.

Features of operation

When operating a fireplace stove, you should adhere to the following basic rules:

Before lighting the fireplace stove, you need to make sure there is draft. To do this, you need to pull out the metal bolt. If there is no draft or it goes in the opposite direction, this is a sign of clogging of the grate, air supply holes or the entire chimney system.
If the fireplace stove has not been used for a long time, then before lighting it is necessary to remove the cold air lock in the chimney system. To do this, you need to light paper or a bunch of straw near the gas channel. After some time, cravings will appear. After this you can use the fireplace.
It is better to use aspen, birch, oak, beech or hornbeam firewood as fuel material. Aspen firewood is especially valuable, since when it is burned, the amount of soot is reduced to a minimum. The smoke of this type of wood is capable of cleaning the chimney channels from soot. Furnace specialists advise using aspen firewood for every tenth kindling.
Coniferous wood contains resins, so it is convenient to use shavings, wood chips, as well as spruce and pine cones for kindling.
It is not advisable to put a lot of firewood into the combustion chamber. The best option is to load 1/3 of it.
The room in which the fireplace is located must be well ventilated. For this purpose, the room is equipped with a ventilation system.
If the fireplace stove is used constantly, then soot must be removed after each heating season. If the stove is heated several times a month, cleaning can be done once every two to three years.

The fireplace stove will become a key element of the room's interior. The warm and comfortable atmosphere will be unforgettable on cold winter evenings. This functional heating structure will become the main recreation area of your home.

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