Mansard is the roof under which the living rooms. The shape of the attic roof can be different, but most often the attic is equipped under a gable roof. Most rational decision, which allows you to get the maximum usable area of a residential attic, is a mansard roof with a broken slope line.
The stages of building a mansard roof with your own hands are in many ways similar to the construction of a regular roof, as are the names of the elements that make up its frame. These include:
- Mauerlat - a support beam that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
- Floor beams - boards that form the attic floor and the ceiling of the lower floor;
- Racks - vertical supports that support the rafter system;
- Purlins – horizontal supports for rafters;
- Crossbars are transverse horizontal elements that tighten the roof slopes together, otherwise they are called puffs;
- Rafters - boards that form the main contour of the roof;
- Suspension - a suspended rack that supports the tightening and redistributes the load between the rafters;
- Lathing - boards or sheets of plywood designed to be laid over them roofing and transferring the load to the rafter system;
- Rabs are boards fixed along the axis at the bottom of the rafters and designed to form a roof overhang.
The cross-section of roofing elements is determined using calculation; the article presents the most commonly used materials in private construction.
Construction of a sloping mansard roof and its differences
As already mentioned, a roof with broken slopes is somewhat different from a simple gable roof. The difference lies in the shape of the opposite slopes: they are not a straight line, but consist of two slopes connected at an obtuse angle. The roof can be either symmetrical or have different shape opposite slopes - it depends on the project.
Thanks to the broken shape, the usable volume significantly increases attic room. The lower part of the rafters is usually installed at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizontal, and the support posts supporting these rafters act as a frame interior walls. The upper part of the rafters is most often installed at a slight angle, from 15 to 45 degrees - this allows you to save materials, but maintain the functionality of the roof and its resistance to snow loads.
Vertical posts resting on floor beams, purlins and tie rods connecting them form a parallelepiped that limits inner dimensions attics. To give the structure additional rigidity, struts are installed between the floor beams and the lower rafters. After installing the upper rafters, hanging supports - headstocks - are installed to strengthen the truss and eliminate sagging of the crossbars. To further strengthen the lower rafters, they are pulled together with the racks using contractions. The elements are fastened using nails and bolts or studs.
Calculation of the dimensions of the attic roof
The main condition for a comfortable attic installation is the ceiling height - it should not be lower than 2.5 meters. To ensure such a height of the room, the break line of the attic roof must be at a height of at least 2.8 meters, taking into account the thickness of the insulation layer and internal lining attic, as well as the thickness of the finished floors.
Before you start purchasing materials and building a roof, you need to draw a detailed drawing that will indicate dimensions houses, slope line and attic height.
Drawing - dimensions of the attic roof
Technology for constructing a sloping mansard roof
- Install a Mauerlat around the perimeter of the house. IN wooden buildings The mauerlat is the top beam or log. In stone - brick or block - buildings, the mauerlat beams are attached to studs or anchors, fixed in the walls during laying at a distance of no more than 2 meters. Align the Mauerlat along the inner plane of the wall; the remaining wall outside is laid later decorative masonry. Mauerlat timber made of dry wood coniferous species usually has a cross-section of 100 or 150 mm. The timber is sawed off to the required length, the anchor pins are straightened if necessary and the timber is placed on top of them. Tapping lightly with a hammer. Indentations from the studs remain on the timber; a hole of the required diameter is drilled along them. You can also mark the timber using a tape measure, but the likelihood of error in this case is higher. Roll waterproofing is laid on the wall; you can use ordinary roofing felt in two layers. The Mauerlat is put on the studs and the nuts are tightened.
- For floor beams, coniferous timber with a section of 100x200 mm is usually used. The floor beams are placed either on top of the mauerlat, extending 0.3-0.5 meters beyond the plane of the walls, or in specially designed pockets in the masonry. In the first case, the beams are secured using corners and self-tapping screws. To make the floors even, the beams are placed in a strict sequence: first, the outermost ones in level, then, by pulling the string, the intermediate ones are aligned along them. The pitch of floor beams is usually from 50 to 100 cm, but the most convenient is a step of 60 cm, which allows you to lay insulation boards without trimming. To level the height of the beams, they are propped up or linings from the board are used. If the beams are placed in special pockets in the masonry, their ends must be processed coating waterproofing and wrapped with roofing felt. Align them in the same way.
- Racks are installed on the outer floor beams. The outer racks are made of 100x150 mm timber; the height and installation line of the racks are determined according to a previously prepared drawing. The racks are leveled using a level and plumb line and temporarily secured with jibs in perpendicular directions - along and across the axis of the roof. This will allow you to install the racks without deviation in any direction. The jibs are made from any board and nailed. A string is pulled between the outer drains and the remaining racks are placed along it with a pitch equal to the pitch of the floor beams, that is, on each beam. All racks are secured in the same way as the outer ones. You should end up with two rows of posts of the same height, running parallel to each other.
- Purlins from 50x150 mm boards are laid and secured on the racks, the purlins are secured to 150 mm nails and to corners using self-tapping screws. Place crossbars made of 50x200 mm boards on the purlins with the narrow side down - this will increase their rigidity. Since there will be no load on the crossbars during operation, such a section of the board is quite sufficient; however, in order to prevent their deflection and increase reliability during the installation process, when installing the crossbars, temporary supports made of boards no thinner than 25 mm are placed under them. The top of the crossbar is fastened with one or two boards - also temporarily, until the rafters are installed. In this case, the boards should not be placed in the middle of the tightening - there they will interfere with further installation, but retreating about 30 cm. After installing the racks, purlins and crossbars, you get a rigid structure that limits interior spaces attics. To increase its strength, it is subsequently secured with struts and contractions.
- Installed from 50x150 mm boards. First, a template is made from a 25x150 mm board - it is easier and faster to process. A board of the required length is applied to the upper purlin, the shape of the cut is drawn directly on the board and it is cut out. Apply the template to the purlin in the places where the rafters are installed, and if it matches everywhere, then the upper part of all rafters can be made according to the template. The lower part, resting on the mauerlat next to the floor beams, is cut out in place each time. The rafters are secured using corners and self-tapping screws and nails.
- To make the upper rafters, you need to mark the center of the roof. This can be done using a temporary stand nailed to the Mauerlat and an extreme tie from the end of the roof so that one edge of the board runs along the center line of the roof. The rafters are aligned along this edge. Next, prepare a template from a 25x150 mm board, placing it at the edge installed board at the required level and to the purlin on which the lower rafters rest. Mark the upper and lower cuts and cut out the template. Apply it alternately to both sides of the roof, checking how accurately its center is marked. If the rows of racks are made in parallel, then there should be no problems with installing the upper rafters - they will all have the same size.
- Perform according to the template required amount rafter legs. The rafters are installed on purlins and connected at the top using overhead metal plates or scrap boards for screws. In the purlin, the rafters rest on the notches and are secured to the corners. In order for the rafters to stand straight, they are secured using struts, installed with the lower end on the ties. This is how all the rafters are placed. Attach hanging racks - pieces of board 25x150 mm. The upper edge of the board is fixed at the junction of the rafters, the lower edge - to the tie.
- Place struts under the lower rafters from 50x150 mm boards, resting them with the lower oblique cut against the floor beam and securing them to the corners, and attach the upper edge to the side of the rafter leg, nail it to one or two nails, then drill a through hole and secure it to a bolt or stud. . After installing the lower struts, remove all temporary supports and posts.
- Sew up the gables, leaving door and window openings. If the floor beams are laid in wall pockets, fillies are attached to the lower rafters - boards that continue the line of the rafters and form the roof overhang. When laying floors on top of the mauerlat, the beams already protrude to the required distance, and there is no need for fillers.
- , corresponding to the type of roofing - continuous or sparse. Waterproofing is placed on the sheathing and installation of the roof covering, for example, begins.
A broken attic roof usually does not need insulation - only the walls and ceiling of the attic are insulated. The air space created under the rafters ensures good ventilation of the attic, reduces heating of the attic rooms in the summer and provides additional thermal insulation in the winter. Therefore, when covering the gables, it is important to leave ventilation windows in the upper part of the roof, above the ceilings attic floor.
Video - instructions for constructing an attic roof
In an effort to make the most of any available space in your country house owners sooner or later come to the idea of arranging an attic. Moreover, many dream of coping with this on their own.
But do they know that a do-it-yourself attic roof will actually be reliable and durable only if you follow certain rules and requirements when installing it? It would not be entirely correct to say that the construction of a mansard roof using technology is very different from the construction of other roofs, however, there is still a certain difference. So what is different about the design of a mansard roof?
Types of mansard roofs
Mansard roof Doing it yourself is a great opportunity to expand the usable space in a private home. What will be the dimensions of the space enclosed between the gables of the building and the roof slopes depends on the shape and design of the roof.
Mansard roof: photo of a roof with broken slopes
Roof mansard type there are several types:
Single-pitch. This is the simplest option, however, in practice it is used quite rarely, mostly to make attics on small country houses.
Projects of mansard roofs with two slopes
The following types of gable roofs are distinguished: gable and broken. The gable gable, perhaps, has no rivals in popularity yet. Neither its design nor its construction by hand, as a rule, does not cause any particular difficulties.
Gable roof attic
The design of a mansard roof with a symmetrical gable system is quite simple. The gables of such houses, often wooden, have a triangular shape. IN load-bearing structure The gable mansard roof includes sloping or hanging rafters.
On a note: For buildings up to 6 m wide, the optimal option is a classic roof with a slope of 45 degrees. For wider ones, pointed ones are suitable - with an angle of 60 degrees.
Design of a gable mansard roof
A broken mansard roof differs from a gable roof by the presence on each of the slopes of two pitched planes, flat and steep. The slope of the upper one is approximately 20–30 degrees, the lower one is 60–80 degrees. This economical option for a private house, the width of which is no more than 6 m. Making a broken attic roof with your own hands is a little more difficult, but it is fully compensated by the full area of the attic floor, which allows you to equip a bedroom, nursery, kitchen, etc. inside. The frame of an attic roof of this type consists of trusses in which the rafters are reinforced with racks, and the lower chord becomes the basis of the attic floor. The fractured areas are strengthened with stretch marks.
Construction of the attic floor of a sloping and gable roof
Another type of gable is the half-hip. In general, it can be designed as a conventional symmetrical rafter structure supported on a mauerlat, with the only difference being that there are small slopes above its gables.
Hip mansard roof
The design of the hipped roof allows you to arrange an additional floor underneath it - spacious and comfortable. Installation of a mansard roof with four slopes is certainly more difficult than manufacturing gable system. Its rafter system is considered the most complex. The placement of roof windows requires a special approach. In a hip roof they are usually installed in the plane of the roof pie. Beautiful ones provide effective lighting.
Important: There is, however, a certain drawback in this solution. If the windows are not tightly closed during bad weather, the room will flood rainwater.
Vertical skylights on a Danish hip roof
More practical in this sense is the Danish version. Unlike the classic hip ones, in their upper part there are pediments that allow you to organize the lighting of the attic using ordinary vertical windows.
Hip roof skeleton with attic
In a conventional hip roof, the rafters are straight, without fractures. The upper end of the corner ribs rests on the ridge, the length of which depends, in particular, on the planned rafter system. Hip roofs are also broken. The implementation of such a design is quite complex, but it allows, in accordance with the plan, a significant increase in the usable space of the attic floor.
The hipped attic is almost hip. Almost, because all its slopes, having the shape of an isosceles triangle, are conjugated at one point, that is hip roof does not have a skate.
Domed roof
The variety of mansard roofs does not end there.
- Multi-pinch ones, which are a combination of several gable ones, have a complex geometry with many kinks.
- Conical, vaulted, dome with exquisite design, etc.
All of these options are considered very difficult to implement and initially require a professional approach. This is a whole complex of problems, starting from drawing and calculations and ending with coating material, for which you need to find the right solution. The unusualness and special aesthetics of these roofs, as a rule, increases the number of pitched fractures, which form many internal corners(endova). Each of them carries a potential danger to the integrity of the roof. In these areas, as a rule, rainwater is retained and snow bags form, which cause leaks.
Roofs of houses with an attic: photos of the main flooring options
Calculating an attic roof in this case is practically impossible without special skills, so if your dream is to build an attic roof with your own hands, then choose a project with fewer complex elements so as not to face the need for constant repairs.
How to calculate a mansard roof
The design of a mansard roof compared to a conventional one is distinguished by the presence of many additional elements, for example, exits to the roof or roof windows. Quite often, attic projects also include balconies or terraces. All this, naturally, somewhat complicates the rafter system of the structure, and at the same time its calculation.
An attic roof is erected not only during the construction of a house, it can also be the reconstruction of a non-residential attic into a residential heated room, and then its size and area can be greatly limited. All this is taken into account when choosing and calculating the rafter system. In addition to rafters, the supporting system usually includes racks, crossbars, struts, and hangers, and for each of them it is necessary to correctly calculate the cross-section.
Attic roof: attic frame drawings
Calculation of roof area
The next step is to calculate the area of the roof itself. The simplest options are single- and gable roofs. To calculate the area, use elementary formulas from the school geometry course: multiply the length and width of the slope. For a single-slope building this will be the desired value, and for a double-sloping one the resulting values are added up.
Let's take a more complex, broken surface as an example. To calculate the area, it is conditionally divided into separate elementary geometric figures, calculate the area of each of them and add up the results.
The plan of the attic roof will help to isolate the figures required for the calculation
How to calculate the roof slope without errors
How to build an attic roof so that it is comfortable and warm, but at the same time safe, resistant to various influences, and within a budget that suits your capabilities? When constructing an attic, it is necessary to take into account all the requirements as a whole, since they are, to one degree or another, interrelated. Eg,
- with a large angle of inclination, the load on the rafter system is greatly reduced. This is on the one hand, but on the other it is shrinking effective area attics, and material costs increase significantly;
- An excessively small slope increases the climatic loads experienced by the roof, so the calculation is carried out taking into account increased strength. At the same time, the weight of the structure increases, due to which the load on the foundation increases significantly.
The relationship between the angle of inclination and the rafter system
When calculating the angle of inclination, the following factors are taken into account:
- climatic conditions, in particular, the level of precipitation in a given area, maximum wind and snow loads;
- architectural solution;
- design features of the house and attic;
- roofing material.
Formulas for calculating the angle of inclination of a hip roof
To individually calculate the slope, knowledge of the basics of geometry is sufficient. When viewed from the side of the gables, the roof most often has a triangular shape. Having the height and base values, you can easily calculate the length of the side and the size of the adjacent angle. In the calculations, Bradis tables are used, which allow the angle itself to be found by the tangent value.
How to build a mansard roof correctly
So, how to make an attic roof so that the space under it becomes as comfortable and useful as possible? Let’s not focus your attention on the description and calculation of the rafter system and let’s begin step-by-step description assembling the attic roof with the installation of the Mauerlat.
Mauerlat is a timber with square section(100x100 or 150x150 mm), on which the entire roofing structure rests. Moreover, it evenly distributes the load on the foundation and building structures. It must be carefully secured. For example, in brick houses pour a beam from monolithic concrete, into which the mounting pins are mounted, onto which the Mauerlat is mounted.
Mauerlat fixed to the wall
To build a sloping roof for an attic, you first need to get a frame for the walls. This is a structure made of vertically installed support posts horizontal ligaments. Their height, taking into account the requirements for the attic space, must be at least 2 m. The rafter system will subsequently be assembled onto a frame, so the support posts are installed in accordance with the previously calculated rafter spacing.
Construction of the frame of a sloping mansard roof
The installation procedure is as follows:
- U-shaped racks are installed along the fronts of the building;
- a cord is pulled strictly horizontally between them; if necessary, the racks are adjusted in height;
- with a guide to the cord, install the remaining arches;
- connect them with horizontal jumpers.
Installation of rafters
Installation of rafters begins with those having a maximum angle of inclination.
Installation of side rafters
A groove is cut at the base of the beam, and the upper part is cut at a certain angle. Then each rafter is fastened with a groove to the mauerlat, and with the upper end of the main structure.
Attaching the rafters to the mauerlat
The next stage is the installation of the upper rafters. It is very important here not to disturb the alignment of the structure. To do this, you can make a template from long boards according to the optimal angle of inclination of these rafters.
Template for upper rafters
Then, according to the template, for convenience, L-shaped structures are first made on the ground, lifted to the roof and firmly fixed to the frame.
Important: for heavy truss structures in long attics (more than 7 m), it is better to install a ridge beam through which the loads are evenly distributed.Depending on the chosen coating, continuous or sparse lathing is placed on the rafters.
Attic roofing pie
The technology for constructing a mansard-type roof, as you can see, is not very complicated, however, it will be useful to see how to practically build a mansard roof with your own hands. Video materials also show how to correctly make fastening units.
The attic floor is a more spacious and well-prepared attic for living. The characteristics of the premises dictate their conditions regarding the roof. The installation of an attic roof does not require the contractor to have any special knowledge and skills. Enough to prepare necessary tools, read the instructions in detail and follow its recommendations in all respects.
There are several types of mansard roofs. Check out the features of each of these roofs and choose the most suitable option. The main points of construction technology are common to all types of construction.
The simplest option is a pitched mansard roof. This design is made with some slope. It is used quite rarely, because due to the slope, the usable area of the attic space is reduced.
The most popular option is a gable mansard roof. The interior of the roof space will be comfortable and spacious. Gable roof simple and profitable to arrange.
It is a type of gable structure. IN in this case the slopes will not be smooth, but broken. Typically, sloping roofs are used in cases with small houses.
Hip roof consists of four slopes. The rafter system of a hip roof is somewhat more complicated.
Half hip roof is a type of hipped roof. In this case, the half-hip is usually understood as that slope that, as it were, cuts off part of the end side of the gable roof. The cut can pass from the bottom and form a trapezoid, or from the top and create a triangle.
Interesting varieties of hipped mansard roofs are pyramidal and conical roofs. Such designs look best on polygonal houses and buildings. round shape. Perfectly combined with other types of roofs.
They are used quite rarely. This design has a smooth parabolic or circular shape. Previously, such roofs were widely used in rectangular houses.
What does the attic roof structure consist of?
A mansard roof in cross-section represents a “pie” consisting of several layers.
Guide to calculating a mansard roof
The attic roof is calculated according to an extremely simple scheme. It is important to take into account not only the useful, but also the blind area of the attic space. In this case, a zone in which the distance between the ceiling and floor is more than 90-100 cm will be considered useful. The remaining places are traditionally considered a blind zone. It is impossible to live in such areas, but in their place you can install a variety of shelves and other household supplies.
Calculate the total roof area. At this point, a roof plan will come in handy. Divide the space into several simple shapes, calculate the area of each of them, and then sum the resulting values to determine the total roof area.
Before you start building mansard roof, pay attention to a number of important details, which include features of thermal insulation of the structure, placement order window openings etc.
Deserves special attention permissible angle of inclination of the roof slope If the slope exceeds the permissible value, the area of the attic space will be significantly reduced. This point is individual and is selected taking into account the area of the attic and other important parameters.
Select the appropriate type of rafter system. Rafters, as noted, help to evenly distribute the load on the walls. Additionally, thanks to the rafter system, it is ensured reliable protection home from various types of adverse atmospheric influences.
The simplest version of an attic roof is a triangular design. The most difficult thing to do is to make a mansard roof with a break. If you do not have the appropriate skills, it is strongly recommended not to take on independent arrangement complex roofs.
Step-by-step instructions for building an attic roof
There are no super-complicated steps in the construction of an attic roof. You just need to carefully read the instructions and follow all the recommendations step by step.
First step. Calculate the strength of the building. The attic increases the load on the walls and foundation of the house. It is better if qualified specialists do the calculations. If you do not plan to carry out work to strengthen the house, you can skip this stage.
Second step. Calculate the attic and prepare a project for the future attic space and roof. It is also recommended to involve specialists in this work. If you wish, you can try to create a project yourself or use some ready-made solution from available sources.
Third step. Do this as carefully as possible, try not to damage other structural elements of the house.
Fourth step. Make a rafter frame. This is the most labor-intensive stage of the instructions in question. It is better if at least 3 people are involved in arranging the frame at the same time.
Fifth step. Place and secure the Mauerlat. To assemble this element, use wooden blocks size 10x10 cm.
Sixth step. Install the frame for the under-roof space. The frame elements will simultaneously serve as supports for the rafters. First, secure the vertical posts along the edges of the building. The racks must be attached to long beams. Self-tapping screws and ordinary metal corners will help you with this.
Seventh step. Attach a jumper to the posts.
Eighth step. Make sure the above items are installed correctly. Any cord will help you with this - simply stretch it between the formed arches. If the cord is in a strictly horizontal position, you have done everything right. If the cord deviates from the horizontal, trim the inappropriate arches or completely replace them with new elements.
Ninth step. Fix the arches together. Nail plates or stamping corners will help you with this.
Attach the first rafters where the roof slope will have the maximum slope. For getting required slope you should simply cut the bars to the required length.
The first step is preparing the rafters. Cut the bars in advance to the desired length and required angle. At the bottom of the rafter legs, select grooves for connecting to the Mauerlat. The grooves can be made using a chisel.
Second step. Secure each block to its designated place.
Third step. Proceed to installing the upper rafters. Be especially careful at this stage. Observe the desired angle of the slope and the overall alignment of the structure.
Fourth step. The sheathing can be made from plywood sheets or ordinary wooden planks. The type of sheathing must match the selected roofing material. As a rule, a continuous deck is made. This is a universal and most reliable option.
Laying protective materials and completing the work
Attic roof requires organization quality protection from various unfavorable factors.
The first step is laying vapor barrier material. The vapor barrier must be secured with inside rafter system. The material is attached to the bars using special construction brackets.
The second step is laying insulation. Traditionally used for insulation mineral wool. If you wish, you can opt for a more modern and expensive material. The insulation boards must fit tightly together and also fit tightly to the rafters.
The third step is the installation of the sheathing. The laid insulation needs to be covered with sheathing. Use ordinary wooden blocks. Fasten the sheathing elements in increments of about half a meter. Thanks to this system, the insulation will remain in place.
The fourth step is laying moisture-proofing material. Secure the waterproofing with outside rafter system. Most often used as a moisture-proof layer polyethylene film. Waterproofing will protect roof elements from atmospheric moisture.
The fifth step is laying the finishing coating. Choose roofing material at your discretion. The best option in terms of cost-to-cost ratio quality characteristics is a metal tile. From budget materials We can recommend slate or its more modern analogue, ondulin.
After you have secured the selected roofing material, the construction of the attic roof can be considered complete. Thus, there is nothing complicated in arranging the considered system with your own hands. Understand the instructions and you will successfully complete all the tasks without outside help.
Video - Do-it-yourself mansard roof step by step
DIY attic photo
Expanding the living space in a private house after completion of construction will cause a lot of problems, including redevelopment and associated costs. But if you urgently need an additional room, there is a solution. A do-it-yourself attic roof, erected above the house, allows you to increase living space without adding an additional floor.
The mansard roof is somewhat different from the usual one. Its design is focused on obtaining the required volume and height of the room. To achieve this goal, attics are most often made according to a gable broken pattern.
On the shape, angle of inclination and design that it has sloping roof, influenced by the following factors:
- the height of the snow cover and the maximum level of precipitation in your area - the higher it is, the greater the angle of inclination of the slopes should be;
- calculated thickness of sound and heat insulation - a thick layer of insulation has a decent weight, which entails the need for additional fasteners;
- in some cases, installing an attic roof with your own hands involves adding an external flight of stairs, which may also affect its design.
Technical terms and safety rules
A do-it-yourself sloping roof is assembled from elements, most of which have their own historical names:
- A beam placed along the walls, acting as a support for the rafters, is called a mauerlat.
- The wooden beams that form the roof slope are called rafters.
- Stiffening elements connecting individual rafters and distributing the load force between them form a suspension.
- Flat boards, plywood, chipboards and other materials on which tiles, corrugated sheets or similar roofing material are laid are called sheathing.
When working at height, it is very important to monitor your own safety. To do this you should:
- use a fastening belt;
- carefully secure the scaffolding during installation;
- do not leave electric or other tools unattended, especially switched on;
- When lifting and moving heavy loads, keep an eye on your assistants and it is advisable to always be within their visibility range;
- do not leave loose parts on the roof slopes;
- try not to be distracted by other matters when working at height.
Do-it-yourself attic photo: building a frame
Mansard roofs begin to be built from the base - the Mauerlat. It is laid along the top of the walls to connect the frame of the house and the roof structure. If the house is not brick, but made of wood, or its top floor is crowned with a wooden part, then the top log or beam can serve as the mauerlat.
In this case, the connection between the wall and the base is made using large staples, powerful overlays, nails or ties. To the old one brickwork or concrete wall the studs or anchors on which the mauerlat beam sits are driven tightly, and when building a new wall, they are mounted during the masonry process.
Mauerlat is made only from coniferous wood. The beam has a cross-section of 100 - 150 square centimeters. Coniferous wood is distinguished by its durability, resistance to stress and higher resistance to air humidity.
There must be waterproofing between the Mauerlat and the wall.
This can be a layer of thick roofing material or a durable waterproof membrane. Thanks to waterproofing, the roof with an attic will be protected from excessive moisture and wood damage. When installing the Mauerlat, you need to ensure that its surface is strictly horizontal. It will become the basis for setting the verticals and horizontals of the roof structure.
Floor beams are laid on the base so that their ends protrude 30-50 cm beyond the wall line. They are made of softwood, from timber with a cross-section of at least 100x200 mm. Fastening the beams to the Mauerlat is done with steel angles, brackets and other durable hardware.
For greater strength at the junction of the beams, you can choose pockets of recesses and lay them with one layer of roofing material. To ensure horizontal alignment, it is better to first lay the two outer beams, and level the rest along the stretched cord. Leveling is done by trimming and tamping small wedges under the beams, wooden spacers.
According to accepted standards, the pitch between the beams can vary from 50 to 100 cm. In practice, building an attic roof with your own hands is tied to the size of the materials used, and the pitch between the beams is adjusted to the width of the interfloor sheet sound-heat-insulating material, for example, construction wool. The ends protruding beyond the wall are treated with water-repellent protective agents.
The racks on which the logs will rest are installed vertically on the floor beams. They are made from timber 100x100 or 100x150 mm. The vertical position of the racks is controlled by a level or plumb line. The construction of an attic requires mandatory control of the placement of the upper ends of the racks in the same horizontal plane.
Fixation is done by temporary or permanent bevels, both in the longitudinal and transverse directions, in relation to the axial section of the roof. For jibs, any sufficiently strong boards or cuttings of thin timber are taken. The result will be two rows of racks, equal in height and parallel to each other.
On top of them, in one line with the Mauerlat, purlins are laid - boards with a section of 50x150 mm. Usually they are where the roof breaks. There are others Constructive decisions, but such a do-it-yourself broken mansard roof is the easiest to implement.
The runs of parallel rows are connected to each other by tie rods. The tie-girder-beam system forms the rigid skeleton of a rectangular living space. Tightenings work in tension and do not bear lateral load. Therefore, for them you can take a board thickness of 50 mm, and a crossbar thickness of 150 mm. To prevent sagging, it is installed on the edge.
Rafters
The construction of a mansard-type roof itself begins with the stage of constructing the rafter system. With sufficient experience, it is better to assemble the rafters on the ground and move them upward for their sequential fastening on the purlins and the mauerlat. An easier, but more labor-intensive way is to collect them locally right at the top.
In this case, each board of the lower rafters is applied and cut in place, after which it is attached at the bottom to the base and protruding parts of the beams, and at the top to the purlins. The horizontal position of the installation is controlled by a stretched rope. Fastening is carried out with nails, wood screws, steel plates and staples. The lower part of the rafter leg should extend beyond the wall by 30-50 cm. This will be the basis for tamping the fillies that form the hanging part of the roof.
The upper part of the rafter system is formed by hanging rafters. They can also be collected on the ground and the finished corner can be served up. After connecting to the lower rafter legs, the ridge of each corner is rigidly attached to the central part of the tie by means of a headstock.
Under its weight, the upper part of the rafter system forms a strong self-regulating system, similar to an open umbrella. Thanks to this, any vibrations of the roof will be compensated by springiness. If the attic width is large enough, a ridge is tapped along the upper connection of the rafters. With a small width, its role can be played by the outermost boards of the sheathing.
Gable trim
The cladding of the gables can be done with any sheet material or boards. When hemming them, leave space for window and, if necessary, doorways. They are equipped with a reinforcing frame corresponding to the size of the window or door frame. At the same time, fillets are tacked to the lower parts of the rafter legs - extension boards that form the roof overhang.
The type of lathing depends on the characteristics of the selected type of roof. If it is a soft attic roof or bitumen shingles, then the structure should be continuous or with the minimum possible gaps. For hard surfaces, their size and lathing pitch are indicated by the manufacturer of the specific roofing materials.
Waterproofing is installed under the base for attaching the tiles. It is advisable to thickly treat the boards with a moisture-proofing agent. Plywood and other softwood sheet materials must be waterproof.
Insulation
A broken attic roof allows you to limit yourself to insulating the living space on the top and sides. At the same time, the lower part of the roof will be well ventilated, which will prevent moisture and condensation from accumulating. Due to the rafter voids, the attic will be protected with your own hands from overheating in the summer, and from hypothermia in the winter.
Attic interior lining
For the interior lining of the attic space, wooden or plastic lining, plywood, thin sheets of chipboard or fiberboard are used. Use heavy facing materials should not, since the entire load from their weight falls on wooden beams.
Bottom line
A do-it-yourself attic will best meet your requirements and allow you to make maximum use of the attic space for organizing your living space.
Do-it-yourself mansard roof step by step video
A do-it-yourself mansard roof built over a house allows you to increase the total living space with minimal financial investment. The most popular options include a gable sloping roof, the installation technology of which is not complicated.
Project development
By “breaking” the roof slopes at different angles, you can increase the volume of space under the attic roof. The broken structure, like other types of attic roofing, is more massive and heavier than a standard gable roof, which should be taken into account when equipping the attic floor during the process of reconstructing a house. It is first necessary to examine the condition of the foundation and walls of the structure to determine whether they can withstand increased loads. If the device is massive attic structure planned at the stage of preparation for construction with your own hands, this must be taken into account when developing a project for the foundation and walls of the house.
You should be careful when creating a mansard roof project, since errors in calculations or incorrectly selected parameters of the rafter system elements can lead to damage to the roof itself, and in some cases, to the walls of the house during operation.
It is recommended to entrust the development of a mansard roof project to professionals. It is also possible to take advantage of special computer programs, with the help of which the optimal roof slope angle and other parameters are calculated. All calculations are performed in accordance with the SNiP document “Loads and Impacts”.
When choosing an attic project, the construction of which can be done with your own hands, you first need to pay attention to the dependence of the room parameters on the angle of inclination of the roof. The living space must have a height of more than 2.2 meters. If the roof slopes are straight, then their angle of inclination seriously affects the width of the room.
A broken attic roof allows you to maximize the expansion of the room, providing the required ceiling height along its entire width. In this case, the side (lower) rafters are located at an angle of about 60 degrees, and the angle of inclination of the upper ones can be chosen at your discretion, based on aesthetic preferences, as well as snow and wind loads characteristic of the construction area.
Roofing pie and other elements
When planning to make an attic roof with your own hands, it is necessary to provide for the use of certain materials for installation in the project roofing pie. They include:
- waterproofing;
- vapor barrier;
- insulation;
- roofing material.
The choice of insulation affects such a parameter as the pitch of the rafters - in order to save thermal insulation material It is recommended to position the rafters so that the slab or mat fits tightly between them. The type of lathing (solid or sparse) and the spacing of the sparse lathing depend on the choice of roofing covering. It is worth noting that the installation of the roof of the attic floor provides for the creation of not only high-quality insulation, but also effective ventilation of the roofing system.
Materials and tools
To ensure safety, the construction of the rafter system and roof should be carried out using fireproof, environmentally friendly materials. Wood materials are treated with fire and bioprotection agents.
To build a rafter system for a private house with your own hands you will need:
- wooden beam with a cross section of 50×100 mm;
- board 150×50 mm;
- unedged board;
- 80 nails, self-tapping screws and other fasteners;
- annealed wire (diameter 3-4 mm);
- level;
- plumb line;
- roulette;
- hacksaws;
- axes;
- hammers;
- sharp knives carpentry
Using high-quality tools simplifies and speeds up installation wooden structures with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions for carrying out the work can be found in the video.
Mauerlat device
The base of the rafter system of the attic roof is a mauerlat made of timber or strong boards. Gable roof requires laying mauerlat on the long walls of the house. The Mauerlat not only allows you to securely fasten the lower part of the rafters, but also helps to distribute the load evenly when it is transferred to the walls and foundation of the building.
To secure the Mauerlat board or beam, metal pins are used, fixed in a monolithic concrete beam made in the upper part of the wall, or annealed wire embedded in the brickwork. When attaching the Mauerlat to the upper rim of a wooden wall, wooden dowels are used. The construction of the Mauerlat requires high-quality waterproofing wooden beam. For this purpose, roofing felt or other durable materials with water-repellent properties can be used.
Installation of the Mauerlat is necessary if you intend to build a roof frame with your own hands, the rafters of which rest against the upper part of the wall with a beveled end or a special cutout. If an attic is designed, the width of which actually corresponds to the width of the house, the rafters rest with their lower end against the outer supports. The supports are powerful beams laid across the long walls. The number of supports must correspond to the number of rafter pairs. The beams are attached to the walls in the same way as a Mauerlat, and waterproofing is also used.
The Mauerlat or support beams must be securely fastened to the walls, since these elements prevent the roof from moving under strong wind loads.
Construction of the supporting structure
The construction of the frame of a sloping mansard roof begins with laying supports under the racks, which must be positioned strictly symmetrically relative to the axis of the building. The distance between the supports is equal to the width of the future attic. First of all, U-shaped arches are installed on the gables of the structure. Each arch consists of two support posts connected by a lintel. To make racks, a beam is used, the cross-section of which must be no less than the cross-section of the support underneath.
The racks are installed plumb, strictly vertically. A jumper is attached to them, the horizontalness of which should be checked during installation. Based on the dimensions of the first arch, a second one is made on another front. It is important to level the structure. A cord is stretched between the U-shaped arches, which must be positioned strictly horizontally. If necessary, one of the arches is dismantled and adjusted exactly to size. Focusing on the stretched cord, you should install the remaining arches. Their number and pitch depend on the designed pitch of the rafters, since the upper end of each rafter is attached to the corresponding rack. This provides the necessary rigidity of the attic roof frame.
The uprights of U-shaped arches can be attached to the support with metal brackets, nails or tenon joints. You can learn about the main methods of connecting rafter structure elements from the video instructions. To ensure the verticality of the racks under the load that the roof will experience during operation, it is recommended to additionally install braces. The arches in the upper part are connected to each other by jumpers in parallel long walls Houses.
Installation of rafter legs
Do-it-yourself construction of a sloping roof involves the use of two types of rafter legs. The lower rafters are located at a very acute angle, connecting the racks to the Mauerlat or the ends of the outer transverse supports. Upper gable truss structure mounted on an arch system.
Before installing the lower rafter legs, you must carefully mark the location of their installation on the Mauerlat. The rafters closest to the gable are installed first. Trimming the rafter legs is carried out in such a way that the cut of the upper edge of the board fits at the required angle to the stand, and the lower cut rests against the mauerlat or remote support. If, according to the project, the attic roof is made with overhangs, a specially shaped cutout is made in the lower part of the rafter leg: with the horizontal part of the cutout, the rafter rests on a support. The rafter is secured with nails or staples. It is recommended to additionally strengthen the connections of the legs with the Mauerlat or external support with burnt wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm. All lower rafters are installed according to a similar scheme.
If we are building a house whose length exceeds 8 meters, it is recommended to install a rafter system with ridge beams. This device allows you to evenly distribute the load over the entire frame. In this case, racks are installed in the center of the gables, the verticality of which is checked with a plumb line, and a ridge beam is mounted strictly horizontally on them. It is important to correctly determine the height of the ridge, since the angle of inclination of the upper rafters directly depends on this. Rafter legs The upper cut ends rest against the ridge beam, and the lower ends rest against the supporting arched structure.
The upper rafters of the attic roof can be an L-shaped structure. Rafter legs can be connected end-to-end using a wooden or metal fastening plate, or by cutting into half a tree, using bolted connection. It is recommended to fit the first pair of rafters locally, which are then dismantled and used as a template. The prepared trusses are installed in the standard order - first the outer ones, then the rest with constant leveling.
On last stage To create a roof structure with your own hands, installation of sheathing, laying of waterproofing, creation of a ventilation gap, and installation of roofing are carried out. Thermal insulation and vapor barrier are attached from the inside, and the sheathing is attached. In the video you can get acquainted with the technology of work in detail.
