Do you want to emphasize the uniqueness of your landscape design? Then you need not only to plant flower beds, but also to think about making unique crafts for the dacha. – an opportunity to decorate your garden plot and surprise your neighbors. You can do it if you follow the instructions in this article.
Garden ideas: decorative mill
A decorative mill installed on a site, in addition to being an element of landscape design, can perform a camouflage function. Small mills, up to half a meter, can easily hide from view uneven areas on the site or, for example, parts of communications protruding to the surface (valves, bends, hatches).
Photo of a decorative mill
Large mills are able to disguise even country toilet. Inside such structures there will be a gazebo or comfortable seating for yourself and guests. Regular construction shed, in which you store gardening tools, can be turned into a decorative mill.
If the size of your plot allows, then a water mill will become a very beautiful part of the decor. For it to function, it is necessary small size pond or waterfall. You can install such a decorative element in a recreation area and on warm summer evenings you can enjoy the splash of water that flows down the blades of the mill.
To ensure that the placement of the mill on the site is correct and pleasing to the eye, you need to familiarize yourself with some tips. In most cases, mills are made of wood. And this is so natural and natural material, which will easily become the highlight of any style organized on the site.
Photo idea of a mill
If you wish, you can place a decorative mill in any part of your site, be it a clearing or a corner of the garden. There is a style - landscape, this is when decorative elements are located at a distance from each other and are not connected in any way. The current Russian style in landscape design is inherent in the windmill. It can be located near a gazebo, designed in the form of a Russian hut, decorative well, benches, bridge. You can put it in the grass nearby wooden wheel from the cart.
Registering a plot in oriental style, the finishing touch will be the installation of a water mill. It can be installed next to a bench or gazebo in the form of a pagoda, and between them lay a path of multi-colored stone. Due to the fact that the mill is the main decorative element, it makes no sense to install it in the far corner of the garden; it should decorate it with its presence.
How to make a decorative mill with your own hands
Because of landscape design It is very popular and the cost of decorative elements is not small. Woodworkers are happy to make decorative mills of any size and style. Sometimes you can come across a real masterpiece that will decorate your garden with great pleasure. Any material is suitable for making a mill, but varnished boards are best suited for this.
Photo crafts for the garden
There is nothing difficult about making a decorative mill with your own hands. First you need to understand the design of the mill. It consists of three parts: a trapezoidal base, a triangular top and four blades. It is better to first make all parts from plywood and then cover them with clapboard.
The blades must be secured to the mill structure in such a way that they rotate freely from the wind. Then the completed design of the decorative mill needs to be coated with varnish or paint and placed on the site in a suitable place for it. The main thing is to show your imagination when landscaping the site and then it will delight you with decorative buildings that you skillfully and tastefully place on it.
Photo of a decorative do-it-yourself mill
Decorative mill for the garden- This is an opportunity to decorate the site and bring something new to it. Make crafts with your own hands, then your dacha will be special and original. On our website you will find a lot interesting ideas what can be grown at the dacha with your own hands, as well as how to design a landscape design at minimal cost.
Improvement personal plot includes not only flower beds, vegetable gardens, greenhouses and paths, but also many other elements, including those that perform exclusively decorative function. An example of such an object is a small copy of a garden mill. Many of its varieties today can be purchased in stores or from individual craftsmen. But often the price for such decorative objects is too high, and if you know how to work with wood, then it makes sense to try to make a windmill with your own hands for the garden. And this article will help you.
The main function of such a structure is, of course, decorative - a mill on the site pleases the eye and creates an atmosphere of comfort. It is also used to decorate gardens and flower beds in the Old Russian or European style (depending on the appearance of the object itself). A good addition to the mill would be benches, miniature carts, fences, fences or a small pond.
In addition, it can bring you practical benefits. With the help of a small mill, some gardeners “hide” not so attractive elements of communications - taps, hatches, containers, etc. As a result, everything that the eye can catch on in the poor sense of the word is hidden, the harmony between trees, flowers, stones and decorative objects do not disturb anything. In addition, the gardener has the opportunity to combine the flowerbed and the mill into one structure - you just need to supplement the base with boxes of soil.
And if you increase the structure in size, it can be turned into a gazebo or children's playhouse. Or, if functionality is more important, turn the mill into a shed and storage space gardening tools.
Garden mill gazebo
Construction of a garden mill
Most of these decorative objects consist of the following parts:
- platform;
- base;
- frame;
- roof;
- rotation mechanism;
- blades.
Platform- This is the place where the garden mill will be installed. The structure can, of course, simply be placed on the ground in the garden or on a flower bed, but then it will not last long - dampness will do its job and render the decorative object unusable. Therefore, it is advisable to build a platform of concrete or stone. The last option will be more beautiful.
Base– the lower part of the mill itself, usually wider for better stability. The most stringent requirements must be met for the quality of base treatment - this part of the structure is in most contact with wet soil and plants.
Frame– the main part of the decorative object, the wall of the mill. It is assembled from boards, plywood, slats, lining, small logs and many other materials. In addition, the frame has a decorative function and is often decorated with windows, doors, balconies and other small elements.
Important! When choosing a location for a mill, pay attention to the surrounding environment - the appearance of the structure should be harmoniously combined with everything around it.
Roof - the upper part of the structure. Usually assembled from slats, planks or lining. In some cases, plastic is used, especially for rounded roofs, which are difficult to make from wood. By its color, this part of the mill should stand out from the frame.
Inside the roof is located rotation mechanism– axle on two ball bearings. In most cases, it passes through the entire structure; this arrangement is reliable and stable. The mechanism can be supplemented by connecting the mill roof to the frame on a vertical axis and adding a sail - then the structure will not only rotate the blades, but also turn in the direction of the wind.
Blades, also known as wings - second in importance decorative element mills. It is assembled from plywood, planks and thin bars. The main condition is that all blades must have the same mass and be balanced, then the mill will last a long time and without problems. Examples of various design options for mill wings are shown in the pictures below.
Table. Types of decorative mills for the garden.
| View | Description |
|---|---|
| Enough simple design. The walls are quadrangular, straight or inclined. Usually such a mill ends gable roof, but there are also other designs. An excellent option for those gardeners who do not have great experience working with wood. |
| More complex design. Requires enough high precision in cutting out parts the right size and giving them bevels. Often the walls of such a hexagonal mill taper towards the top. It ends with a dome or polygonal roof. Compared to the previous option, all other properties being equal, it is more attractive. |
| The decorative windmill has the simplest design due to the absence of casing and complex roof. In addition to decoration, it helps to determine the direction and strength of the wind on the site. In addition to wood, a windmill can be made from steel profiles, if it’s easier and more convenient for you to work with them. |
There are many ways to ensure that a tree on your site dries out quickly. However, the most common of them are those that involve the use of chemicals. preparations intended to destroy plants. Read more in .
Decorative mill for the garden made of plywood - instructions for creating
Introducing step by step instructions on creating a hexagonal decorative windmill for the garden, made of plywood. With the proper skills and the availability of woodworking tools, assembly will not take much of your time and effort.
Important! All parts of decorative mills require careful and multi-layer treatment with antiseptics, protective compounds and varnishes. This is the only way they will not lose their attractive appearance over time and will be able to decorate the site or yard for many years. Example of good protective coating for the mill - ship or yacht varnish.
Start working with the middle part of the structure, called the frame in the picture above. It is a truncated hexagonal pyramid with a straight base. All parts are assembled from thick plywood.
Step 1. Prepare drawings and part templates. Given the complexity of the design, the dimensional accuracy of each element becomes very important.
Step 2. Using a pencil, mark on the sheets of plywood the individual elements of the frame - trapezoids elongated in height. Then cut them out electric jigsaw. Don't forget to cut the side ends at an angle of 45° to connect with the rest of the elements.
Step 3. Place the finished plywood pieces together so that the cuts form grooves facing down. Refer to the image below. Connect the parts together using tape.
Step 4. Turn the resulting structure over and apply glue into the grooves formed by the cuts. Act quickly, but at the same time carefully.
Step 5. Fold all the frame parts into a hexagon so that the glued ends fit tightly to each other. Use the tape again so that the structure holds its shape for a while.
Step 6. Wait until the applied glue dries, lay the walls on their sides and remove any excess. Remove the tape from the structure.
Step 7 Cut out the hexagonal cover internal dimensions the upper narrow part of the frame. Do not screw in the screw completely on one side - it will act as a kind of handle for installation. Apply glue to the edge of the upper narrow part of the frame, turn it this side down and, using a screw, mount the hexagonal cover. Place some weight on top of it. Wait until the glue dries and remove any remaining residue.
The truncated pyramid that makes up the walls of the mill is ready. Now start creating the base. It is a straight hexagonal prism. To connect to the base of the structure, a central vertical beam, which is fixed with a screw on the top cover of the prism and passes through the corresponding hole in the bottom.
Step 1. Cut out two hexagonal covers to the size of the base of the previously made truncated pyramid. In the center of one of the parts, make a mark for a screw, in the other - square hole along the cross section of the beam.
Step 2. Place both covers on one of the faces, cut out the vertical walls of the prism. Connect the first three of them to the lids with glue; use tape and clamps to maintain the shape. Everything is shown in the image below.
Step 3. Repeat the previous operation with the three remaining faces of the prism.
Step 4. Insert the beam into the hole in the bottom cover. Move it until it touches the top hexagon. There, screw in the screw according to the mark and secure the beam.
The beam must be screwed to the upper hexagon
Step 5. Treat the lower walls of the truncated pyramid and the top of the prism with glue and connect them to each other. Use tape again to maintain the shape.
Step 6. Once the glue has dried, remove adhesive tapes and process the resulting design grinder or sandpaper.
The next part of the mill to be made is the base, which consists of three parts:
- the lower part is a large straight hexagonal prism with fastening for a vertical beam;
- the middle one is a truncated hexagonal pyramid;
- the upper one is a small straight hexagonal prism with grooves for a decorative viewing platform.
As with the walls of the mill, we present the manufacture in the form of step-by-step instructions.
Step 1. Prepare the fasteners for the timber mentioned above. It consists of a board mounted on a lower hexagonal prism and a hollow box for the cross-section of a beam.
Step 2. Cut out six parts for the lower prism from plywood, make cuts in them at the side ends, as shown in the instructions about the walls of the mill. Connect with glue and tape together. Then secure the board and box for fastening the timber from the previous step. Make sure that they are positioned exactly according to the drawing.
Finished bottom prism of the base with fasteners for timber
Step 3. Now proceed to the truncated base pyramid. Cut out trapezoidal-shaped parts from plywood, and use a jigsaw to make cuts on the side ends at an angle of 45°. Then connect with outside elements of the pyramid with tape, gluing the grooves and assemble a hexagonal structure. After drying, get rid of any remaining glue.
Step 4. Make a small upper base prism. Cut small grooves at the corners to attach an observation platform that will decorate your mill.
Step 5. Connect all three parts of the base to each other using glue. Place a weight on top of them, which can be a bucket of water. The weight is necessary for better adhesion of the glue.
Important! Do not overdo it with the weight of the load; the base structure may not withstand excess loads.
After completing the bottom of the mill, proceed to the observation deck. The latter consists of supports made of small bars, a path of slats and railings. The platform is screwed to the bottom of the mill wall and installed with supports in the grooves of the base.
Step 1. Cut out the base bars. Then make marks or small holes on them for attaching the viewing platform to the walls of the mill with screws.
Step 2. Prepare a template according to which the observation deck floor slats will be laid. It should be a hexagon with marks made in pencil. It makes sense to glue it with double-sided tape so that the floor slats do not move due to the slightest movement or contact with the supports during installation.
Step 3. Lay five rows of timber as shown in the photo below to form the floor of the observation deck. They are connected to each other by small quantity glue. From above, with its help, secure the supports to each of the corners of the hexagon. Use clamps to clamp.
Step 4. Wait for the glue to dry and carefully separate the floor and viewing platform supports from the template.
Step 5. Attach vertical bars to the outer edges of the supports - these will be the railing posts. Fastening is done with screws.
Step 6. Carefully glue the slats that will form the walls of the railing to the posts. Use clamps or plastic clamps to form.
Step 7 Turn the mill frame over and place it on the floor or workplace beam up. Also flip the viewing platform over and secure it to the bottom hexagonal cover of the frustum with screws. Then glue the grooves in the upper part of the base with glue and attach the frame of the mill to it along with the viewing platform.
The creation of a decorative windmill for the garden is nearing completion. The next stage is the dome and inner part mechanism for rotating the “wings”. The roof of the mill is made of a plastic hemisphere, to the bottom of which a plywood ring is attached. It, in turn, is connected with screws to a circle that is mounted on the top cover of the structure frame.
Step 1. Process the dome, cut out a ring and a circle from plywood of the required size.
The dome, as well as the circle and ring, cut from plywood
Step 2. Make holes or marks for them in the same places in the circle and ring - this will be needed for subsequent assembly. Mount the circle on the top cover of the mill frame.
Step 3. Make fasteners for the bearings of the mill wing rotation mechanism. They represent wooden blocks with holes of the appropriate diameter. Their structure and creation are shown in more detail in the images below.
Important! For many garden decorative mill assembly jobs, your an indispensable assistant there will be a stand for vertical mounting of the drill, which thus turns into a drilling machine.
Step 4. Connect the lower halves of the bearing fasteners by inserting horizontal bars between them and at the ends, as shown below.
Step 5. Install bearings into the holes of the fasteners, mount the entire structure with screws, add a small support in the front to provide some tilt.
Step 6. Now you need to connect the bearings to the axle from of stainless steel. To do this, use nuts and washers, screwed on all sides of both fastening bars.
Step 7 Install the bars with bearings and axle on the circle previously mounted on the mill frame.
Step 8 Determine the point where you need to make a hole in the plastic dome for the axle.
Step 9 Drill a hole in the dome for the axle. Then glue a plywood ring to the bottom side. Use tape as a clamp (crosswise).
Step 10 Carefully mount the dome on a circle of plywood, threading the axle through the hole. Use screws as fasteners, turning them into the marks or small holes made in step 2.
After this, it is necessary to manufacture the outer part of the mill mechanism - the blades and their attachment to the axis.
Step 1. Cut out a block to secure the mill to the axis. Its manufacture is shown in detail below.
Step 2. Using a pre-made template, cut out four blades from relatively thin sheets of plywood.
Step 3. Prepare four long bars. With their help, the mill blades will be attached to the central block and axle.
Step 4. From one of the ends in each of the bars, drill a hole for a pin.
Step 5. Glue the bars to the blades. Be especially careful and respect the dimensions.
Step 6. Prepare the pins with clamps, attach them on one side with glue to the bars with blades.
Step 7 Insert the clamps into the corresponding holes in the central block, then insert the blades with studs from the ends. Fasten everything accurately and carefully.
Step 8 Install the central block and blades onto the mill axis. Check if the mechanism works. If everything is in order, the decorative structure is ready! All that remains is to paint it, varnish it and put it in the garden or flowerbed.
Advice! If you think that the design of the decorative mill outlined above is too complex, then it makes sense to try to create a more simplified version - with four walls and a frame made of ordinary boards or lining.
Video – Decorative mill
DIY log mill - instructions
Its design is a smaller copy of real log houses. Shovel cuttings can be used as “logs” - they are cheap and available at any hardware or gardening store. List necessary tools the same as in the instructions for the previous mill, only a ring attachment for the drill is added to them, which is necessary for cutting out rounded grooves for the frame.
Step 1. Prepare the cuttings, remove their packaging, if any. Place the two cuttings together and secure with clamps and screws. The parts of the workpieces extending beyond one of them should be slightly larger than the length of the walls of the future mill. Mark the places for cutting out the cups (as the grooves in the log house are called). This instruction shows how to create a mill with hexagonal walls, so the connection individual elements the log house is not at a right angle. Therefore, the cups in the cuttings should be “oblique”, at an angle of 60°. To do this, prepare a wedge as in the image below.
1 – Handle and hole saw for wood. The diameter of the latter must be equal to that of the former; 2 – Fixing two cuttings together; 3 – Wedge
Step 2. Place two cuttings connected together and clamped on the inclined surface of the wedge and secure. Using a hole saw attached to an electric drill, cut the cups for the frame in one operation in both blanks, as shown in the image below. Then turn the cuttings with clamps 180° and make two more grooves, but from the other edge of the cuttings. After this, use a jigsaw to cut off what is located behind the edge of the clamp. The logs for the base of the log mill are ready.
4 – Installation of cuttings on a wedge for sawing cups; 5 – Finished result, two logs with oblique grooves located at an angle of 60°
Step 3. Move the clamp higher along the cuttings, again mark the points for drilling the cups and repeat the previous operations until required quantity the logs will not be ready.
Step 4. Carefully cut six similar logs lengthwise into two halves - one with cups, the other without. The first will go to the top of the mill base, the second to the bottom.
Step 5. IN in this case the logs are connected to each other by pins inserted into the base, so drill a hole in the middle of the cups in each of them required diameter. Alternative way connections - wood glue.
Step 6. Prepare a hexagonal base. Assemble it from two glued trapezoidal boards or cut it from a single piece of plywood. Insert the studs into the corners of the future log house.
Step 7 Place the first three elements of the frame on the studs - halves of logs without cups, prepared in step 5.
6 – Sawing holes for pins in logs; 7 – Beginning of the formation of the log house; 8 – Finished “log” walls of the mill base
Step 8 Sequentially place logs on the studs, forming a log house, as in the image below. You can cut holes inside for decorative doors or windows.
Step 9 Treat the hexagonal base and walls of the frame with stain or varnish to give it a more attractive appearance and protect it from damage. Attach another hexagon to the studs on top, made in the same way as the product from step 6. In turn, fix the metal corners on it.
Important! For durability, equip the base of the mill with legs or supports made of wood varieties that are resistant to external influences. It could be oak or larch.
Step 10 Attach long and thin bars to the corners, which will act as a frame for the walls of the mill. At the top they are attached to a hexagonal plate of slightly smaller board or plywood to create a slight slope.
Step 11 Cover the frame of the mill with small slats, which are then treated with varnish or stain. At the same time, to improve the appearance, cut holes in the walls for decorative windows and doors. Then make a rectangular base for the roof, assemble its frame from the same bars and cover the ends with slats and the roof with glazing beads. Cover the fastening points here and on the walls of the mill with decorative strips.
9 – Treated base with corners for fastening the wall frame; 10 – Installation of frame bars and upper hexagonal plate; 11 – Finished walls and roof of the mill, covered with slats and decorative strips
Step 12 Prepare holes for the axle at the ends of the roof. It can be made of metal or wood. At the outer end of the axle, attach an octagonal block, on which four holes are made at equal intervals for fastening the blades.
Step 13 Cut out three bars that will play the role of a “frame” of the blades - two side ones, located at an angle, and one central one. At the end of the latter, make a rounded pin for mounting the blade on the axle. Then nail the “frame” bars onto the slats and cut them into the desired shape, as in the image below.
12 – Axle with an octagon, necessary for fastening the blades. The ends are covered with cuttings; 13 – Preparation of the blade. Three bars are its frame, the slats just have to be cut to achieve the desired shape
Step 14 Process the blades and secure them to the axle. If necessary, balance them so that the mass is approximately the same and the mill is not subjected to unnecessary stress. Install it on in the right place in the garden, preferably on a support made of stones - this way the structure will last longer.
With the right attitude and some skill in working with wood, you can easily get an excellent mill that will decorate your garden, yard or flower beds for many years.
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A DIY decorative mill will decorate any suburban area, if you approach the implementation of such a project with imagination. The model can be made quite functional if you put in some effort. How to build your own mill?
Start of the project
The most important condition for any construction is drawing up a project. A decorative mill for the garden with your own hands has many options, so first you should decide on some nuances of its placement:
- Location of the structure, what conditions prevail at the intended installation location;
- Mill dimensions;
- Its main purpose;
- The amount of money you are willing to spend on the project.
For these points, it is worth looking for or developing drawings of the frame and structural details.
On a spacious plot, a large-sized mill will look great, which can serve not only a decorative function, but also be an additional warehouse for garden tools, fertilizers and various small items.
If you have space, but it’s not enough and you just want to decorate the garden various designs, it is worth building a miniature mill. 
It is quite possible to make any version of the mill; the main thing is to choose assembly diagrams specifically for your site.
The overall cost of a small building will not hit your pocket hard. You will need several slats, wooden, metal or plastic parts, glue and screws for fastenings. If after the repair there are unnecessary blanks left, they can also be used during frame assembly. Now it’s time to decide on the material. 
Material selection
For your dacha, you can make a large number of crafts with your own hands. Usually in country houses you can find leftover lumber, scrap metal, plywood, etc. Which of these can be used? Almost everything. Since the project is yours, you are free to assemble the mill with your own hands from everything that is available on the farm, but this can greatly affect the appearance of the building:
- For those who love simple classics, the most suitable option there will be a wooden garden mill. The structure is made of plywood, wooden planks and boards. The advantages of this option: lightweight design, wood is easy to process without special tools, can be decorated at your discretion, and does not require a strong foundation. Cons: requires protection from rotting, appearance is quite simple.
- More creative models can be assembled from metal, plastic and wood at the same time. Appearance using various materials can be made very interesting. Pros: original approach, use of unnecessary materials that were lying idle. Cons: metal is difficult to process without machines, wood and plastic have different performance characteristics, the structure will be quite heavy.
Should I use other materials? The classic mill is wooden structure, a little less often - stone. To assemble the frame, you can use metal or plastic, and use stone-like material as decoration. Various PVC panels with a stone texture will help with this. The disadvantage of this option is the price, since the panels will have to be purchased separately. 
Beginning of work
A do-it-yourself mill is made in several stages:
- Select a place in the garden where it will be placed. It is advisable to choose a flat surface. Next, you need to clean the site for placing the structure.
- Site preparation. A wooden mill does not require a serious foundation, while heavy metal constructions need a solid foundation. In any case, you need to do a little concrete screed so that the structure does not come into contact with the ground.
- Attachment to the base can be done different ways, here you need to proceed from personal preferences and project features.
- Procurement of materials and tools. Make approximate calculations of all materials, but do not forget about possible alterations, a small supply will always come in handy.
- Check the drawings and all work items.
Master Class
The simplest example of how to make a mill with your own hands will be described below. The main material is wood, so you need to prepare all the tools that will be useful for working with it:
- hacksaw, jigsaw, electric saw;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- sandpaper;
- roulette, level.
Consumables:
- glue;
- corners;
- hardware;
- one long bolt (20-30 cm) with two washers and five nuts.
The materials used are:
- thin wooden slats;
- Chipboard, plywood;
- lining.
Step-by-step instruction:
- The work begins with the base of the frame. It can be two square blanks made of plywood or chipboard, with sides 30x40 cm. The size can be changed at your discretion. The mill will have the shape of a trapezoid.
- We make holes in the center of both squares. We place the rail in the center. As an example, a workpiece 50 cm long is used. The rail is secured with self-tapping screws in both squares, but once the frame is assembled, you can get rid of it.
- We place inclined frame posts in the corners. Suitable blanks are inserted and tightened with self-tapping screws. 4 posts hold together 2 sheets of plywood, the middle one can be unscrewed. The lower part of the mill is ready.
Now it’s time to start assembling the top part:
- Two triangular blanks of arbitrary sizes are made, but so that they fit the style of the lower part and are connected with slats and screws.
- The lower part is sheathed with pieces of clapboard on the sides.
- Now the upper part of the frame is connected to the lower part with the same screws.
- The roof of the mill is covered with clapboard. You can make a window and doors in the base or roof at your discretion.
- A screw is mounted on one side of the roof and secured with nuts. They make blades from lungs wooden blanks. The shape and size are arbitrary. The blade structure can be attached to the circle with a screw, or the parts can be installed crosswise and secured with a nut and locknut.
The wooden mill is ready. It is decorated, varnished and installed on the prepared site. The finished model can be seen in the photo below.
conclusions
A do-it-yourself windmill is a fairly simple design option for decorating your suburban area. Using unnecessary materials, in a few days you can assemble a rather interesting structure, which, in addition to decorating your site, will perform auxiliary functions, for example, act as a secret warehouse. 
Photo gallery
We present to your attention a successful selection of 30 photo ideas for a do-it-yourself mill.
Hi Hi!
Today we’ll talk a little about scrap!
I really love decorations codenamed “windmill”.
They are very easy to make, you can make them in any desired size, any color. What is convenient in scrap is that you can take paper that perfectly matches the product, from the same collection as the paper in the product itself, for example. And to do something so simple, but at the same time spectacular decoration🙂 Most often I make something baby-like, but here it’s a real find!
I want to tell you how I make them, maybe it will be useful to someone.
I also want to draw your attention to the fact that you can use them in any way you like. There is only one limitation - our imagination 😉
For example, can be used as decoration flower pots.
Or for example on children's day birthday or party you can make windmills different sizes, big ones can serve decorative ornaments, decorate the cake less or, for example, cocktails.
And once I made such windmills to decorate the windows of one of the MEGA Kazan stores :) I used 30*30 cm squares, quite large. In general, anywhere and at your convenience!
So let's get started. For clarity, I made a video, where I also showed how I decorated the sticks on which my windmills were held for the display case.
We need cardboard, double-sided or single-sided, I use designer paper for scrapbooking, the thickness is suitable.
Here you can see the other side :) I chose the top paper.
I cut a square from my strip. The side of the square is 5 cm.
You need to draw invisible lines along the diagonals; I draw them using a scoring stick. You can also use a knitting needle or crochet hook. Or ballpoint pen, which has run out of ink. If you look closely you can see the lines on my square.
You need to cut along the lines from the corners to the center, not reaching the center 1-1.5 cm.
Each corner is now divided into two parts. It is necessary to make holes in the center and in one of the halves of each corner.
Now we need to decide in which direction we will bend some of the corners with holes. Usually the color or pattern on the two sides of the paper is different, so you need to decide which way to fold. In order for the folds to be soft and without creases, I soften the paper with an awl.
We select the matching color bras.
And we begin to thread the bratsik into each corner with a hole and, last of all, into the center. Let's strengthen it, brother.
IN kindergarten We decided to make a “Museum of Bread”. The question of its design urgently arose. You need to show children the whole process of making bread. Stuck at the mill.
I honestly admit that I don’t like to pore over patterns and work for a long time. Therefore, I decided for myself - cheap, but cheerful.
And also, sorry for the small number of photos. As they say, a good thought comes later!
We build a “wooden” mill from corrugated cardboard. It is very similar to a log house and each log does not need to be fashioned.
We make a pattern for the future house, remove upper layer corrugated cardboard (we leave the corrugation itself and the bottom layer, it will “hold” the corrugation).
Glue the parts together. For gluing, I used the same removed “top layer” and Titan glue.
The blades were made from cut off individual “tubes” of the same corrugated cardboard and the “top layer” of it.
I screwed the blades to the base. The screw cap (from the outside) was covered with the cut off top of a champagne cork (never throw away “unnecessary” things) ;)
The roof was made from strips of corrugated cardboard (only corrugation without the lower and upper parts). I glued it “overlapping” onto a pre-prepared piece of cardboard, cut to size and folded in half. The top strip overlaps slightly with the bottom strip. The result was a good imitation of tiles.
I painted this “miracle” with gouache. Yes, I almost forgot, the door is a neatly cut corrugation and the “bottom layer” of cardboard remains. Those. I didn't glue anything in. This is a solid wall.
