Do you have to remove engines from cars or transport heavy items? Then it is simply vital for you to have such a thing as a small tap! And this is not a thing, such taps exist and you can make them with your own hands! We will analyze the design of one of them in this article. With the help of such a crane you can easily and simply remove the engine from the car and place it on a table for overhaul. Agree, it sounds tempting!
Making such a faucet is not difficult, it is even very simple. The entire structure is welded from steel square pipes. As for the working body, it is used as it. That is, you don’t need any electricity or anything like that; we lift weights by simply working the lever on the jack. Concerning technical characteristics, then in general the jack is capable of lifting weights up to 4 tons, but at the same time we take into account that we lift weights through the boom, that is, to a greater height. The experiment showed that such a crane can lift a motorcycle with a sidecar that weighs more than 300 kg. Under such a load, the structure was slightly deformed, but then the author strengthened it and now 300 kg is not the limit for the crane, and it doesn’t need more! By the way, you can use a regular jack; a hydraulic one is not necessary. Let's take a closer look at how to make such a faucet!
Materials and tools used
List of materials:
- steel pipes square section;
- ;
- Sheet steel;
- nuts, bolts, etc.;
- dye;
- hook and rope;
- wheels.
List of tools:
- Bulgarian;
- welding machine;
- drill.
Faucet manufacturing process:
Step one. Frame
The frame is welded from steel pipes square section. Of course, the stand and base should be as strong as possible. To be able to change the angle of the boom, we drill holes in the post and boom and weld the pipes into their places as bushings. This design creates reliable connection. All this is connected by a steel rod or bolt and nut. The base is a cross. We strengthen the stand with pipe sections.
We screw wheels to the base so that the crane can be transported with a load. These wheels are installed on garbage bins(but better not steal).
Step two. Jack
To install the jack, you need to prepare stops on the boom and on the stand. The stops must be movable, since the angle of the jack will change during operation of the crane. How the jack is installed, look at the photo. Also, now you have noticed that the author has slightly altered the base, now it has become stronger.
Step three. Arrow
Our boom is retractable; it consists of a piece of pipe of smaller diameter with a number of holes. We extend the boom to the required distance and fix it with a bolt and nut. We attach a cable and a powerful hook to the end of the arrow.
After painting, the crane is ready for testing. The author can easily lift a motorcycle weighing 318 kg. Finally, the author strengthened the stand and boom a little more. So now the strength of the crane should be sufficient to lift a load weighing 400-500 kg. That's it, the project is finished, I hope you liked it. Good luck and creative inspiration if you decide to repeat it. Don't forget to share your work and
Materials for the crane were mainly found in scrap metal. We only had to buy bearings, a winch, and order parts for the turning mechanism from a turner.
And I also had to pay the welder, since I myself welding work I can’t do it because of some vision problems.
In general, this crane cost 5,000 rubles, which cannot be compared with the amount of work that I managed to complete with its help, because the “cheapest” helper in our region costs 800 rubles per day.
I’ll immediately make a reservation that during operation, my faucet revealed some shortcomings, which I will point out and advise on how to correct them. So your faucet will be a little different from mine.
Let's start with the rotating mechanism
It consists of six parts that need to be ordered by a turner, and two bearings.
As you can see, there are no dimensions in the drawing. The fact is that you don’t have to follow the exact size, like mine. After all, we make the faucet from available material, and I cannot know what size channel or I-beam, or what kind of pipe you will have at hand.
A little more or a little less doesn’t matter in my design. And you will understand this from further instructions. And having generally estimated what materials and parts you have, determine what dimensions to take for the manufacture of the rotating mechanism.
The mechanism has two bearings. At the top, between the housing and the base, there is a support bearing. Below, again between the housing and the base, there is a simple radial bearing.
Or rather, the housing should be mounted on the bearing, and the base should fit into it. Thus, both of these parts are connected. For more reliable fixation of the radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below. The thickness of the threaded and retaining parts of the nut is at your discretion, but not less than 3 mm.
Then this unit is attached to the platform with a bolt (I have an M 26), which attracts the base to the platform. Thus, it turns out that the platform and base are a stationary part of the mechanism, and the body with the nut is rotating.
Now a little about what practice has shown. Towards the end of the season, the radial bearing weakened a little, and a barely noticeable play formed in the turning mechanism.
But with a boom length of 5 meters, this play became noticeably noticeable, so I recommend installing a hub bearing, 36 mm wide, instead of a radial bearing.
Here in Kazan, support and wheel bearings can be bought for 500 rubles both. And to tighten the bolt securing the base to the platform, you will need a spanner with an extension, and definitely two washers - a flat one and a lock washer.
Our next node will be the rack.
To make it you will need a piece of pipe (I have d140) and four pieces of channel. The height of the stand needs to be estimated so that finished form she was just the thing for you. Even two centimeters lower. Then it will be convenient to turn the winch when operating the crane.
Since God is unlikely to send you a piece of pipe with an evenly cut end, you will have to cut one end yourself. To do this, we take a car clamp, or make a clamp from a strip of tin, and tighten it on the pipe.
When tightened, the clamp will try to position itself on the pipe as evenly as possible, and if you help it a little (by eye), you will get a fairly even line around the circumference of the pipe, which you just have to draw, then remove the clamp, and cut the pipe along this line using a grinder .
Then, the rotating mechanism platform is welded to this flat end of the pipe. Now it’s clear why I didn’t give the dimensions in the drawing? You still have to order the rotating mechanism. And you can find a tuba. This means the diameter of the platform can be ordered according to the diameter of the pipe.
Now the legs. They need to be welded so that the stand does not collapse. How to do it? Firstly, they need to be cut to the same length.
Then hang the pipe with the welded platform, passing the rope through the hole in the center of the platform, and place your legs diagonally towards the pipe, so that in the end, the pipe remains hanging evenly, and your legs rest against it on all four sides.
As soon as the balance is found, you need to draw by eye the corners of the channels that abut the pipe, and trim them with a grinder as shown in the photo.
After trimming the corners, lean your legs against the pipe again, catch your balance, check with a rack and tape so that they form an even cross, and secure them with welding. After tacking, check the cross again, and you can weld.
All that remains is to make the support cross itself. It can be made from any rigid profile. At first there was an idea to put it on wheels made of bearings, but time was running out, and it didn’t come to the wheels, but actually it would have been nice. The unit turned out to be quite heavy, and it was difficult to move it.
The length of the arms of the cross is 1.7 meters, although as operation has shown, this cross does not play a particularly large role in the stability of the crane. The main stability is provided by balance, which we will talk about later.
The cross is not welded to the legs, but is attached with M 10 bolts and nuts. This was done for ease of possible transportation. The legs were reinforced in anticipation of installing wheels, but they never got around to it, although the idea of installing them is still there.
The stand with the rotating mechanism is ready, now let's move on to the crane platform, on which the counterweight, winches, and boom will be installed. I found a one and a half meter I-beam, 180 mm wide, for the platform. But I think you can use a channel and even a 150 x 200 beam under it.
At first I even wanted to use timber, but since I found an I-beam, I chose it. The platform is attached to the rotary mechanism body with four bolts and M 10 nuts.
If you use timber instead of an I-beam, then you will need to make additional platforms for it, above and below. You can “encircle” it with two pieces of channel and tighten everything with bolts.
But we’ll wait with the bolts for now, since the place where the platform is attached to the rotating mechanism will need to be selected based on balance. That is, the crane boom must be balanced by a block for counterweights and a winch. That is, the crane must stand confidently on the stand and not fall over.
Next will be the counterweight block.
I have it made from pieces of the same channel as the platform, but it can be made from anything, and in any way. The main thing is to have a container in which you can install loads, so that if necessary, you can increase the counterweight.
Now about the winch. My winch is installed with a capacity of 500 kg, with a brake. And once again, as practice has shown, such power was not enough to lift a load of about 100 kg.
That is, you can lift it, but you have to lean so hard on the handle that when lifting to a height of more than 5 meters, you get tired very quickly. For such a crane you need a winch of 1 - 1.5 tons.
There was also supposed to be a second winch for lifting the boom, but at that time, having visited a bunch of shops and markets, I could find only one winch with a brake, which you see in the photo. Therefore, instead of a second winch, a temporary tension cable was made, the length of which is still changed using clamps.
Unfortunately, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary structure. I still recommend that you install a winch instead, preferably a worm one. Its speed is low, and the brake, whether up or down, is dead. That's what an arrow needs.
All that remains is to make an arrow, which is what we will do. The boom consists of a mount with a shaft, a beam 150 x 50, and a tip with a pulley.
First, the mounting body. It is better to make it from a piece of channel wood.
Any round timber with a diameter of 20 to 30 mm will do for the shaft. For example, I cut off a piece of the rotor shaft of some old engine. Then we bend it in a vice, put two brackets around this shaft and fasten it to the channel, into which the beam will then be inserted.
We buy two simple bearings, so that they fit tightly onto the shaft, and cut out a seat in the mounting body.
Of course, you can dream up how to secure the bearings in the housing. Besides mine, there are probably a dozen more ways. And I found an ebonite plate, 10 mm thick, from which I made these fasteners.
The boom itself is a beam 150 x 50, 5 meters long. It is inserted into a channel 80 mm wide and 2.5 meters long. True, I had to trim it a little so that it would go inside the channel. I have a channel installed, 3.5 meters long, but this is only because I didn’t have it at hand at the time good timber, with small knots. I simply played it safe, which, unfortunately, increased the weight of the arrow.
The timber is secured to the channel with ties made from a metal strip 3 mm thick.
At the end of the boom, you need to attach a pulley for the cable. Mine is made from a wheel from a trolley bag. For skillful hands, I think there are plenty of options for attaching the pulley. At first it was fastened between two pieces of plywood, but then I made a fastening from a channel.
Now you can assemble the arrow, if not for one “but”. During operation, the brackets with which the shaft is attached to the channel turned out to be rather weak. So I made them stronger.
And one more addition. My reinforcing part is secured with four bolts. You need to add two more on top to make the unit more rigid. Although mine works fine with four bolts. Otherwise I would have added it a long time ago.
Now you can assemble the entire crane platform, that is, install a winch on it, a block for counterweights under the winch, and at the other end - a boom lifting body with a boom. If there is, then a second winch, if not, then a guy rope, like I have.
All this is assembled in a lying position, and upon completion it is raised vertically, onto some kind of support. For example, I stacked several pallets on top of each other and placed the assembled platform on them so that the counterweight hung freely downwards.
Then we fasten swivel mechanism to the counter. The most important thing remains - install the platform on the stand so that the boom and counterweight balance each other.
Unfortunately, I don’t have any photographs of the structure that I built for this, well, I’ll try to explain it this way.
This design is a tripod with a block at the top. The height of the tripod is approximately three meters. It is made from timber 100 x 50. As you probably already guessed, the assembled crane platform needs to be suspended and raised so that a stand can be placed under it.
The platform will be raised using its own winch. To do this, we pass the winch cable through the block and hook it to the boom lifting body, which is located at the opposite end of the platform.
Now, if you operate the winch upward, the entire platform will rise. But during the rise, the arrow, raised up, begins to collapse, so you need to either call a couple of assistants who will fix the arrow in a vertical position, or make another tripod (as I did) with a block 6 meters high, and tie rope to the end of the arrow, let it through the block, and pull it up as the platform rises.
Having suspended the platform in this way and placed a stand under it, you can lower and raise the platform and move the stand to find a position in which the counterweight will balance the boom.
In this position we drill 4 through holes and bolt the platform to the stand. OK it's all over Now. The tap is ready. You can start testing.
Well, a couple of examples of operation:
General view of my faucet:
If the article does not answer your question, ask it in the comments. I will try to answer as quickly as possible.
I wish you success in your work, as well as the opportunity to lift and move everything you need and where you need it.
You really need a lift in your garage. It is very convenient to use when there is a need for a thorough technical inspection and engine disassembly. Of course you can buy ready faucet for the garage. Manufacturers offer a wide range of electromechanical and hydraulic lifting mechanisms.
But experienced garage workers know for sure: a homemade garage faucet will be closer to the heart. And there is a real opportunity to make lifting mechanism their with my own hands, With minimal costs. Let's look at a specific example.
It is worth watching the video, which discusses in detail the principle of the hydraulic garage crane.
There are many useful information. And you can visualize this lifting device.
Making a garage faucet
Garage workers say that you can make a garage faucet with your own hands. At the same time, the device turns out to be completely reliable and safe, and is durable. This fact has already been verified personal experience car enthusiasts. Let's learn how to make a faucet for a garage, which is also called a “goose”.
This is the experience shared by an expert who has successfully manufactured a lift.
First of all, the car enthusiast notes that a dismountable homemade garage crane is simply necessary when you need to save space. Of course, this is especially true in small garages, as well as where there are several cars and motorcycles. You simply cannot do without such a crane.
Great if you can get it at a reasonable price metallic profile. Then the manufacturing costs will be minimal. Here are the materials you will need.
- Metal profile with parameters 80 by 80 mm, only 7 meters. The wall thickness was 3 mm.
- Two profiled pipes.
- Jack for 5 tons.
- 4 metal plates with a thickness of 8 mm.
- Studs M 14, 100 mm.
- Hook from towing strap.
- 6 wheels: 2 swivel with brakes, 2 simple swivel, 2 straight.
Of course, it is very important to make sure that such a homemade garage crane is safe. Car enthusiasts note that they have been testing their devices for a long time and subjecting them to difficult tests. And it becomes obvious that the lifting mechanism is reliable. For example, a garage worker hung a moped on a lift and sat on it: the result was a total weight of approximately 250 kg. It is quite enough to withstand such loads to then use a crane to disassemble the engine.
Let's look at the photos that were taken during the manufacture of a garage crane.
A hydraulic garage crane, which has the sonorous name “Goose,” is used to raise and lower a car engine. If desired, you can make it with your own hands, using improvised materials. The hydraulic crane consists of a mobile, collapsible support on wheels and a stand with a jack, on which a retractable arrow equipped with a chain and hook is attached. The crane replaces a winch or other special equipment, without which it would be impossible to remove the engine from the car.
What is required to create a crane?
To design a hydraulic garage crane with your own hands, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, and then adjust them to your needs, in addition to wrenches You will need a drill, grinder and welding machine. The dimensions of the crane are selected based on the required lifting capacity and the size of the garage or other room in which it will be used.
The materials you will need to find and prepare are:
DIY hydraulic garage crane
At the first stageyou will need to weld a frame made of steel pipes rectangular section. It must be very strong to withstand heavy loads. If it is necessary for the boom angle to change in the crane, then holes are drilled in the stand and boom, and tubes are installed in their place as bushings. The structure is connected by a steel rod and a simple bolt and nut. At the base of the frame there will be a stable cross, reinforced with sections of pipes or metal plates.
Wheels with brakes are attached to the bottom of the frame so that an engine or other cargo can be transported using a crane. Wheels of this type are installed on modern plastic garbage containers standing on the street.
Second phase- installation of a jack. For this purpose, special stops are prepared on the stand and boom. They must be movable, then the angle of the tap will change during operation. The jack is installed at an angle from the base of the frame to the boom; it will take on the main load when lifting heavy objects.
Third stageinvolves installing a boom consisting of a piece of pipe of smaller diameter with several holes. It is inserted inside the upper part of the frame, connected by a jack to the base of the crane, and extended to the required length. The boom is then attached to the main pipe with a bolt and nut, and a chain and a powerful hook are installed at its end.
After installing the boom, all that remains is to paint the crane and begin testing. Ideally, he should be able to lift up to 400-500 kg freely. If necessary, the stand and boom are strengthened to withstand greater loads.
For repair work for the car engine, a lifting device was needed, a craftsman from Novosibirsk decided to make a homemade crane with his own hands.
As planned, the crane should be collapsible so that it does not take up much space in the garage. Lifting will be carried out using a hydraulic jack.
The photo shows the homemade design.
The base is welded from 60 mm channel and square pipe 50 mm, additional trimmings were used to strengthen the structure.
The channel is welded at an angle at which the vertical column tilts back.
Vertical stand and boom made of 50 mm square pipe.
The legs and reach of the boom are made from 40mm square tube.
I drilled holes for the vertical stand, legs, and arrows for outreach. I welded the ear under the jack and figured out how the jack would fit on a piece of some kind of metal structure. The boom has a 30mm corner reinforcement.
Shoulder - 1/5, approximately 110 cm of the boom and 22 cm of the stop from the axis of the vertical post.
In the photo there is a rise of 130 cm to 210 cm. The boom can be moved plus depending on the load capacity. You can also unscrew the screw from the rod on the jack. The jack is designed for 3000 kg, so the weight on the boom is maximum 600 kg (arm 3000/5).
During testing, the vertical console began to bend (between the lower channels and the lower stop of the jack). Motor + gearbox, 250-260 kg. I had to strengthen it and weld 5 mm cut plates onto the 50 pipe.
A homemade crane is easy to use, 25 minutes and the motor is already on the cushions in the car.
sam-stroitel.com
Do-it-yourself hydraulic crane for engine removal: instructions and drawings
For full convenience of using your own garage, sometimes you need equipment for lifting heavy parts of the car. The best option The solution to this problem is a hydraulic crane. The unique structure allows you to rearrange small loads with little effort from the mechanic or car owner.
Design features and operating principle
The hydraulic valve is made of durable metal and has a stable design. Main principle mechanism structure: stable support with low dead weight. This helps you lift loads of up to three tons with ease, but a maximum of two meters above the ground.
Garage crane is used for:
- removing the engine;
- lifting beams, bridges;
- movement of dimensional units.
The crane contains a hydraulic drive and operates through a system of communicating vessels. The method allows you to make the rise smooth.
Stationary
The stationary crane is installed in large car repair shops and is securely attached to monolithic foundation. The mechanism has a boom with a rotating system and is equipped manual drive. Allows you to work on only one vehicle at a time.
An essential plus stationary crane– high load capacity. It is provided by a monolithic support, which creates rigidity of the system.
Portable
The hydraulic rolling crane has wheels on its base. The support is provided by the lower metal beams, this causes the load capacity readings to be lost. It is better to choose a faucet with a massive triangular support. By design they are divided:
- on cast solid supports with limited boom reach, but good load capacity;
- telescopic or folding - they have an increased boom reach, but reduce the load capacity by several times.
Important! Folding units need to strictly follow the instructions for lifting the permitted load. The arrow cannot withstand and, if the permitted standards are not observed, it breaks off.
Main types of equipment
The average garage has a reduced square footage and requires careful selection of equipment. Before installation, it is recommended to carefully study the need for individual mechanisms, their types, pros and cons. A hydraulic valve is determined by two criteria.
By type of drive
There are also two subtypes of hydraulic drive:
- automated design with hydraulic cylinders;
- combined, with hydraulic cylinders and manual winches.
A significant drawback of the first is oil cylinders. They need frequent regular replacement, so this design is considered extremely unprofitable for constant use. The combined system will last longer. However, some of the work with winches will have to be taken on by mechanics.
According to the design of the support
Hydraulic cranes are divided into mobile and stationary, they can be folding and prefabricated cast (goose). For ordinary garages, it is more rational to choose a mobile structure with folding parts.
What properties should a garage lift have?
There are two main requirements: stability and load capacity. Secondary requirements are the ability to move, rotating support, low support beams, folding mechanism. The properties required by the lift are calculated solely from the individual characteristics of the room.
DIY crane assembly technology
If you have certain skills, assembling the mechanism yourself will not be difficult. To do this, it is important to draw up a preliminary design drawing, choose materials wisely and strictly follow the assembly instructions.
Schemes and drawings
Below are sample drawings of a hydraulic crane. You need to make accurate calculations yourself, based on the parameters of a particular garage.
Material selection
To build a garage lift yourself, it is recommended to first purchase all the required materials:
- 3 steel corners with parameters 7.5x7.5x0.8 centimeters.
- “Worm” gearbox, the minimum load capacity of which starts from 300 kilograms, and the additional indicator is 60 kilograms.
- A strong steel plate one centimeter thick. If you have an old metal cutting machine, you can take it from it, outside help you won't need it for this.
- About 10 matching bolts.
- 2 dense metal chains with a diameter of two to three centimeters. The crane is designed to work with very heavy materials - you should carefully monitor the quality of the metal.
- Hook.
- Steel cable with a diameter of 5 millimeters.
- 2 keys with different parameters in the shape of an asterisk.
Step-by-step construction instructions
The process of assembling and installing a homemade garage crane does not look complicated:
- steel corners must be installed on parallel walls;
- fasten the steel plate to them using M8 bolts;
- fix the “worm” gearbox on the plate;
- install the key bigger size on the drive shaft;
- drill a hole in a pre-designated place, insert a chain into it and close it into a ring;
- fix a smaller key on the output shaft of the gearbox;
- drill 2 more holes in the plate;
- pass the second chain through the holes, where one end is on a small key, and a hook is installed on the second.
Self-installation of the crane has a number of important advantages. For example, the cost homemade mechanism almost two times lower than purchased.
garazhyk.ru
How to remove the engine from a car in the garage with your own hands?
Basic maintenance of the motor is possible without dismantling it. Replacement of spark plugs, maintenance of intake and exhaust manifolds, and even replacement of the timing belt (chain) is carried out directly in the engine compartment of the car. However, work with valves, crankshaft, piston group, etc. is carried out only with the engine removed. Not to mention the overhaul procedure.
From our article you will learn how to remove the engine from a car in the garage, how you can remove the engine yourself and how to do it correctly.
The material was prepared by the site Auto-science.ru - whose specialists will help you check the mileage of your car efficiently and without errors.
How to remove the engine from a car in the garage without resorting to the help of a car service?
In fact, this is not such a complicated procedure as it might seem at first glance. The main task is to select tools for removing the motor.
Important! The engine weighs several hundred kilograms. His fall may not only cause material damage, but also lead to serious injuries.
Before lifting the engine from the engine compartment, it is necessary to carry out the following procedures:
- Drain all technical fluids: oil, power steering fluid, brake fluid.
- Free the cooling system from antifreeze.
- Drain the gearbox (except when you remove the engine without removing the gearbox).
- Disconnect all hoses and pipes of the fuel, brake, lubrication and cooling systems.
- Remove if possible attachments: air conditioning compressor, generator, etc.
- Disconnect electrical cables, engine control unit, injector control cables, high-voltage ignition coil wires.
- Remove the connectors from all motor sensors. It is recommended to make a list (“based on” the maintenance and repair instructions), this will help you not to miss a hidden connector.
- In most cases, you will need to remove the hood cover.
If you plan to remove the engine without the transmission, you need to unscrew all the tightening bolts and make sure that after removal the gearbox will not fall under the car. That is, you need to take care of temporarily securing the unit.
How to remove the engine from a car?
At home, there is usually no professional lifting equipment, so you will have to rent it or make it yourself.
Do-it-yourself goose for removing the engine
This is a simple mechanism that resembles a gooseneck. It makes it possible to move the engine away from the engine compartment. It may have a rotating design that allows you to remove the engine without moving the machine.
The heavy internal combustion engine is simply transferred to a workbench located next to the car. In fact, it is a universal garage crane. The rack rests on long “legs” located under the engine compartment to prevent it from tipping over. A cable and a winch are used for lifting.
The gander is used both in garage conditions and in small services.
DIY engine removal lift
As a rule, this is a rolling crane, the lower part of which is placed under the front bumper. A smooth platform is required; on uneven ground, removing the engine using such a device is problematic. The lift operates using hydraulics or a tensioning mechanism like a winch. The device is simple: a stand with rolling supports, and a movable boom on which the motor is suspended. You can make a lift with your own hands from a channel or a square professional. pipes.
If there are strong wheels on supporting legs, you can quickly roll out the lift with the motor and move it to the repair area.
Do-it-yourself winch for removing the engine
Applicable if the car is being repaired in a solid stone garage. The most inexpensive tool that can be used to remove an engine. A chain or cable is used to pull it out.
There are two design options:
- A transmission mechanism with a drum that is suspended from the ceiling.
- The winch is fixed to the floor, and a pulley is fixed under the ceiling.
Features of removing various motor designs
Longitudinal arrangement. As a rule, such internal combustion engines are removed without a gearbox, although exceptions are possible. The radiator needs to be removed.
Transverse arrangement. The motors are compact and easy to lift vertically. The gearbox remains on the engine.
Hybrid systems and electric vehicles. Engines internal combustion in such machines they take up little space or are absent altogether. Electric motors can be built into the wheel drive or integrated into the transmission. In view of small size their dismantling is not difficult.
All types of internal combustion engines are installed on supports. IN frame structures The mounting points are located on the frame; cars with a monocoque body usually have a subframe.
block-mitsubishi.ru
how to lift the engine out of a car with your own hands
You really can't do it with your hands.
manual winch
head removed, hinge, 2 bolts, rags for wings, 2-3 meter thick pipe, 2 lift, 1 coordinate, do not put legs
You can take everything apart under the hood. I've already done this.
the cable, the crowbar, and two people can pull it out entirely. if there is one then for parts
There are special attachments sold in auto parts stores, where you can turn the handle by hand or something like that…. Well, personally, how long ago was the engine removed from a Muscovite - they drove it into the garage, the chain to the engine, then the chain was thrown over the crossbar, and then this chain was attached to the second car
depending on what car. on a six without a head, one was pulled out and installed. hard, but tolerable
three of us at least need to or a winch for the beam
If a car has up to 2 liters, remove everything from the engine, the block will become much lighter. The engine jack is lifted, removed from the cushions and pulled out.
If it’s a Jeep/SUV, then pull the waist, or take everything off again and take two or three people out.
If it’s a BelAZ, then it’s easier to squeeze it out without special ones. equipment
I knew one guy - one of them pulled out pennies from the collection.
When the time comes to overhaul the engine, then without overhauling it internal parts there's no way around it. To do this, you have to remove it and take it to a mechanic, who can replace all the old worn parts with new ones. But it is at this stage that most drivers make their mistakes when they try alone to quickly remove the engine, repair it and quickly drive their favorite car.
First of all, you need to understand that it is impossible to remove the power unit alone, otherwise you can not only hopelessly damage the engine crankcase, but also damage your limbs. How many cases have there been when drivers, in great haste, tried to remove the engine themselves!
Then we drive the car to the garage, where there is a pit and reinforced concrete floors, which allow us to more confidently carry out all these necessary repairs.
You are only allowed to disconnect everything yourself electrical cables, fuel wires and belts from the pulleys, not forgetting to drain all the water from the radiator and the oil from the engine crankcase. This is all basic, but necessary operations that every self-respecting driver should know. Therefore, before removing the engine, you need to prepare all useful containers where all liquids from the engine will be drained, not forgetting to prepare soft rags along the way, with which you will have to collect all the spilled liquid (you can be sure that there will definitely be some).
It is advisable, if the engine still has a liquid air filter (they are installed on GAS), to remove it and pour out the old oil. This will reduce the weight of the engine.
Then we rent special device– a trolley jack and place it under the engine. With its help, we slightly lift the engine from below in order to be able to loosen the bolts on the rubber pads on which, in fact, the engine hangs. After the last nuts are unscrewed, the engine is then smoothly and gradually released to the bottom. This first option is suitable when an electric lift is available and the car can be raised completely.
But in widespread cases, when you don’t have a hoist or floor lift at hand, but you really want to go, you can get by with primitive devices. You need to prepare a metal cable and pipe. Then we wrap the cable around the engine, lift the engine, loosen the nuts on the mounts and very carefully lower the engine to the bottom of the pit. This dangerous work It is better to do it with three people, because two will hold the iron pipe, and the third will loosen the nuts on the engine shock-absorbing mounts.
Needless to say, before removing the engine from the car, the wheels should be firmly fixed in wooden blocks in order to completely eliminate even the slightest movement of the car chassis?
Install the engine in reverse order.
A winch or assistants to help.
Lower into the pit, then winch up
the simplest and cheap option- manual hoist
You can buy it for 3-4 rubles!
http://www.mp-u.ru/shop/ruchnaya_tal
My husband also suffered and finally bought a hoist. Perhaps you should buy or maybe repair the old one. There is also spare parts for the hoist.
touch.otvet.mail.ru
Injector Remover - DIY Removal Device, Types: Hydraulic, Universal, Inertial and Homemade, Instructions for Removal and Replacement
We are looking for two authors for our site who are VERY well versed in the structure of modern cars.
Contact by mail
During the operation of the car, it becomes necessary to remove the injectors for replacement or diagnostics. At this moment, the car owner may face trouble in the form of a stuck injector. The reasons for this may be either engine overheating or simply oxidation of the contact point caused by exposure to aggressive external environment. Excessive force will damage the injector. Very often it moves slightly and then jams, making it impossible to move in any direction. To solve problems, a special puller comes to the rescue, designed to remove stuck injectors.
Complete set of branded vibration injector remover
A factory-made inertial puller kit may include:
- an extractor unit that can withstand operation at various frequencies and amplitudes;
- vibration rod locking rod designed for fixation;
- stepped thrust rings, usually one or two;
- a bearing ring that improves sliding and smooth pulling out of the nozzle;
- power nut made of high-strength steel to prevent rapid thread wear;
- a package of spring washers that eliminates rigid fixation that can cause damage to the head and injectors;
- a protective ring that increases the safety of working with the puller.
To pull out the nozzle, it must be subjected to vibration. The puller does not have the ability to create it on its own, so when dismantling the injectors, it is necessary to connect a Vibropac vibrator, often used to remove stuck spark plugs.
In some cars, for example, Mercedes Vito, Renault Master, Toyota Hiace, the use of an inertial puller is difficult. This is due to the lack of space to accommodate it. In this case, it comes to the rescue hydraulic puller nozzles capable of dismantling in the most inaccessible places.
When dismantling fuel injectors with this device, the connection of a hydraulic hose is required, therefore, in the absence of equipment that provides pressure, purchasing a puller is not advisable. To carry out the operation, it is recommended to contact a service center.
Homemade dismantling methods
When performing dismantling yourself, it is important to remember the risk of damage to the cylinder head. If excessive force is applied, part of the seat may come off along with the nozzle. You cannot do without expensive repairs after this, so it is forbidden to gouge out the nozzle using improvised means, for example, a hammer drill or a jackhammer.
A self-made injector puller allows you to remove the injector without using a Vibropac vibrator. In this case, the chance of damaging the cylinder head and the duration of extraction increase. The service life of a homemade device is short, so broken threads during dismantling are not uncommon.
Instructions for removing stuck injectors
To dismantle the injectors using a proprietary puller, it is recommended to follow the following sequence:
- Remove all contamination by blowing with compressed air;
- Pour penetrating lubricant, for example WD-40, into the gap between the nozzle and the seat;
- Place an inertial puller over the stuck injector;
- The return fuel drain fitting must pass through the positioning slot;
- Using a torque wrench, screw the spindle onto the threaded part of the injector. Must be tightened to the nominal torque specified in technical description car. Most cars have a force of 20 Newtons per meter;
- Place the washer with the machined side down;
- Place the second washer on top. Its spherical side should point down. To improve smooth dismantling and extend service life, it is recommended to lubricate the device with oil;
- Put on the package of spring washers. comes complete with a branded injector puller;
- Tighten the nut by hand. When the force becomes insufficient, you will need a 36mm wrench. Tighten until a slight force appears.
Further work involves the use of a Vibropac vibrator. In its absence, craftsmen recommend tapping with a hammer. This method will work if the nozzle is slightly stuck. In this case, the risk of damaging the cylinder head cover is extremely high, therefore this method It is not advisable to use it. If you have Vibropac, further instructions for action are given below:
- Remove the spark plug removal tool;
- Shut off the air supply as much as possible;
- Place on the impact pin;
- Mark the wrench on the nut;
- Press the Vibropak pedal;
- At a certain moment, under the influence of vibration, the nut begins to tighten. This means that the removal of the injectors is successful. In this case, you should not apply excessive force to the key;
- The nut must be tightened in combination with the action of vibration;
- At a certain point the nozzle will release. It is necessary to remove the key and remove it along with the puller.
A special feature of working with a self-made puller is preliminary long-term soaking with a penetrating lubricant or corrosion inhibitor. In case of insufficient preliminary preparation there is a risk of damaging the injector threads as soon as the key makes the first turn. After this, its removal becomes much more difficult.
Using a puller saves time, since there is no need to dismantle the cylinder head cover. Accuracy in work will allow you to keep the seat intact. Just clean it and you can install a new nozzle.
If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them
swapmotor.ru
Equipment for removing the engine from a car
Removing the engine from a car is done in case of replacement and repair of car engine parts. Before removing the engine, it is necessary to move the machine to an overpass or inspection pit.
Lifting of the device is usually done using talc or another lifting device, such as a motor support. Since most engines are designed in conjunction with a gearbox and clutch, it is more convenient to remove the entire unit. The result of the technical condition allows you to determine the need to remove the engine from the car. In case of serious technical problems with the car, various repair equipment will be needed one way or another.
The procedure for removing the engine from the car
- We remove the hood; if the power unit is removed downwards, the hood does not need to be removed;
- Drain the antifreeze;
- Drain the oil from the engine;
- Disconnect the wires of all electronics;
- Disconnect the brake booster hose;
- Disconnect the fuel supply hoses;
- Disconnect the throttle and choke wires;
- Disconnect the clutch hydraulic cylinder or cable drive;
- Disconnect the muffler intake pipes;
- We fix the motor on the lifting device;
- Unscrew the fasteners to the body;
- We remove the engine; after the work, assembly is carried out in the reverse order.
Before disassembling the engine, it is necessary to carry out mandatory external cleaning on a stand specialized for these tasks. The stand allows you to rotate the motor at different angles for convenient washing and performing disassembly and assembly work. In order to ensure long-term operation of the car and the engine itself, all unusable parts are replaced with new ones.
Worn parts are marked for future replacement. The parts that most often become unusable are: pins and connecting rods with covers, pistons, liners, flywheel with clutch, crankshaft, cylinder block, bearing caps.
