If you turn to specialized literature, you can find out that royal pelargonium is also known under a number of other names - royal geranium, grandiflora pelargonium. For scientists, the more familiar name of the plant sounds like Regal Pelargonium, Pelargonium grandiflorum. Pelargonium is a member of the Geraniaceae family and can grow up to 25–50 cm in height. However, this plant is best known as indoor flower, which can be explained by its long flowering period and ease of care. Propagation of royal pelargonium is simple and effective, since cuttings are most often used for it.
Types and varieties of royal pelargonium
Zonal pelargoniums.
Tulip-shaped. A very beautiful variety of pelargonium. This subgroup received its name due to half-open flowers, shaped like mini-tulips. They are collected in dense inflorescences, reminiscent of small boutonnieres. They were introduced in the USA in the late 60s. The most popular varieties from this category are: Red Pandora, Lilian Andrea, Marbacka Tulpan, Emmafran Bengtsbo, Patricia Andrea.
Rosebuds. The flowers of this variety look like roses, the petals of which are neatly folded into buds. And a large number of double flowers in one inflorescence forms a beautiful, fluffy ball. Such rose pelargoniums appeared at the end of the nineteenth century, and since then a huge number of their varieties have been bred.
Dianthus. The flowers of such pelargoniums are framed by petals with jagged edges. One gets the impression that the bush is dotted with tiny carnations.
Cactus-like. An interesting and extremely rare group of pelargoniums, which saw the light of day at the end of the nineteenth century. Their peculiarity is that each petal is wrapped in a kind of bundle, which gives the flower caps a slightly disheveled appearance.
Ivy-leaved pelargoniums.
Ivy-leaved (ampeloid) pelargoniums have long occupied their niche among numerous species and varieties. Their peculiarity is that their stems are not erect, but long and hanging (their height can vary from 30 to 100 cm).
Uniques.
Unicum is the “elder” among pelargoniums. In the second half of the 18th century, this specimen with carved leaves was produced, beautiful flowers and fragrant smell. The species became especially widespread in the Victorian era, when almost no garden of the nobility could do without several representatives of this variety.
Fragrant pelargoniums.
Not everyone will like the smell of pelargonium that it emits if you accidentally touch its leaves. But there are varieties that simply smell fragrant, filling the house with a variety of wonderful aromas. At first glance, these are completely inconspicuous plants, with rare, modest flowers. But this group is valued not for its beauty, but for its ability to refresh and flavor the air. If you want to smell spruce or pine, you can put a pot of Orsett, Clorinda, Fernleaf, Fair Ellen in the room. 
Caring for royal pelargonium at home
Pelargonium loves good lighting, but it should be protected from direct sunlight. If there is little light, then its inflorescences will be small. It can be located in any bright place in the apartment with the exception of the north side.
IN winter period due to lack of light, pelargonium is kept at a low temperature (about 15 degrees). It needs to be exposed to light in a cool room so that the pelargonium can rest. If it is not allowed to rest in winter, its shoots will stretch out and it will stop blooming, which over time can lead to the death of the plant.
Growing royal pelargonium requires careful attention to watering the plant, since if the soil dries out too much, it will stop blooming. If the soil is too wet, the pelargonium may begin to hurt. For irrigation, use settled water at room temperature. It is necessary to water the flower when the top soil layer has already dried out. Additionally, you need to spray the leaves of pelargonium before it begins to bloom. 
Pelargonium is planted in turf soil, to which peat and sand are added. As additional fertilizers, products that contain less nitrogen are used.
In spring and summer, the plant is fed once a month.
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Watering royal pelargonium at home
As for watering, the plant loves water. Therefore, water it abundantly, but do not allow water to stagnate, it is very afraid of it. In addition, waterlogging is more dangerous than drying out the soil. If the soil dries out, then there is a better chance of saving the plant. But frequent waterlogging causes root rot. And if the roots begin to rot, then it is almost impossible to save the plant. And don’t forget to regularly pamper your beauty with nutrients, especially during flowering. Therefore, during the active period, pelargonium is fed every 10 days. But during the rest period it is better to refuse fertilizing. 
Fertilizer for royal pelargonium at home
At home, geranium can be fed with milk formula by dissolving 100 ml of milk in a liter of water. Use alternating with regular watering. Ash mixed dry with soil will help replenish potassium reserves; or ash solution added as an auxiliary feeding. For abundant flowering of the plant, complex means and feeding systems are not required. It is enough to provide the flower with nutritious soil, and in the spring-summer period give a full range of mineral fertilizers, paying close attention to watering with iodine. Reasonably dosed fertilizing, including, in addition to the three main components, also magnesium, calcium, sulfur, zinc, iron, iodine, will provide the owner of geraniums with abundant flowering at home, throughout the year. 
Transplanting royal pelargonium at home
First of all, we look at the condition of the flower. If it is in the flowering stage, you should wait for the process to complete and replant 4-5 days after completion.
If the pelargonium does not bloom, we take a new pot of a suitable size, since plants are usually sold in small shipping containers, and transplant the flower into it. We also replace the soil with a new one, because stores mainly use a temporary substitute in which the plant will not be able to fully develop. 
For pelargonium, a light one is suitable fertile soil, it is best to mix sand, turf and leaf soil and humus in a ratio of 1:2:2:2. At the bottom of the pot, be sure to lay out a layer of drainage made of expanded clay, broken brick, pebbles or other coastal pebbles. We carefully remove the pelargonium from the old container, without washing or shaking off the roots too much, and place it in new soil. Sprinkle soil on top, covering thoroughly root system. At the end of the procedure, water the plant.
Propagation of royal pelargonium
Like all types of geranium, royal geranium is propagated by cuttings. But unlike others, royal geranium does not tolerate reproduction well and begins to be capricious. Therefore, it is necessary to create certain conditions. 
Propagation by cuttings is carried out in spring and summer. It is important that the air temperature in spring is 18–20 degrees, and in summer a maximum of 25. At other temperatures, problems may arise during rooting.
Prepare the soil in advance. Add sand one to one to the turf soil or peat, sand and perlite, also in equal proportions. Pour boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate over the pre-prepared soil. Using a sharp knife, cut the stems and leave a small margin under the bottom leaf. Cut the cuttings so that each has 2-3 buds. Trim the bottom sheet using an oblique cut.
Dry the cuttings and plant them in the soil. After planting, cuttings are usually not watered. You can just spray warm water. After about 3 weeks, the cuttings take root. After this, pinch the central stem and the plant will begin to branch. Fertilizing can be done two weeks after rooting.
It is not worth replanting the plant often. It does not like this due to its capriciousness. 
So, here are the basic rules for caring for this beautiful geranium:
- place pots of geraniums in well-lit places;
- do not overheat, maintain temperature conditions;
- do not expose to direct sunlight;
- do not leave in the rain;
- ventilate the room;
- water moderately, avoiding water getting on the leaves and flowers themselves;
- feed before each flowering;
- do not replant often;
A plant affected by whitefly should be isolated from warm, dry air. If the flower is heavily infected, water the soil with actara three times every 6 to 7 days. In the future, for preventive purposes, it is necessary to inspect the leaves from the underside. 
At the initial stage, the whitefly can be easily washed off with water. To prevent its spread, you need to wash the leaves. laundry soap, and then cover the flower with a bag for half an hour. To prevent soapy water from flowing into the pot, cover the surface of the soil with polyethylene.
Among the diseases royal pelargoniums the most common is blackleg. The reasons for its appearance may be: low temperature, dense, waterlogged soil, too large a pot. Cuttings, as well as young plants whose stems have not yet become lignified, are most susceptible to this disease. Since it is almost impossible to save the plant, it is necessary to re-root it.
Pelargonium is a flower known and loved by many. It gained its popularity for the beauty of its lush inflorescences, the colors of which delight the eyes and soul in spring and summer. She is not at all picky - caring for flowers with “bright hats” is not that difficult. Another reason for its wide distribution is that it can grow not only in room conditions, but also to decorate balconies, loggias, as well as garden and park flower beds in the summer.
The historical homeland of the plant is South Africa. In the 16th century, it was first noticed on the vastness of the mainland by flora and fauna researchers from Europe. They brought with them several specimens of flowers and began to breed them in their greenhouses. Pelargoniums became especially popular in England during the reign of Queen Victoria. This fashion spread to other countries, including Russia, where in every noble house one could find several blooming representatives of the southern flower.
Such a general fascination with the plant led to the fact that breeders began to breed more and more new species. Their ancestor was zonal pelargonium, which was one of the first to be brought from the African continent. It was a fairly tall bush, about a meter high, with bright, red flowers. But its main feature was the presence of dark crescent-shaped zones on the leaves, hence the part of the scientific name - zonal. The color of the leaves resembled the famous bakery product, that’s why people began to call flowers rolls. There is another name that can often be heard when it comes to beautiful, bright and cheerful flower– geranium. But the fact is that geranium and pelargonium are two different plants.
Pelargonium and geranium - two sisters from the same family
Both flowers belong to the same family - Geraniaceae. Outwardly, they are really similar, especially in the seed capsule, which is tied after the plant has flowered. Outwardly, it resembles the beak of a bird. Actually, thanks to this feature they got their names Greek: pelargos - stork, geranium - crane. What is the difference between them?
Variety of pelargonium species
For many years after the discovery of the flower, numerous species of pelargonium appeared, which later united into entire groups. Depending on the characteristic features They are divided into pelargoniums: zonal, ivy-leaved, unique, fragrant, angelic and royal.
Zonal pelargoniums: main types
A very large group, including such a huge number of varieties that this “community” is divided into subspecies. All of them are collected according to the characteristics of the “design” of the flower.
Ivy-leaved (ampeloid) pelargoniums
Ivy-leaved (ampeloid) pelargoniums have long occupied their niche among numerous species and varieties. Their peculiarity is that their stems are not erect, but long and hanging (their height can vary from 30 to 100 cm). The hard leaves are not much different in shape from ivy. And in terms of color and structure, the plants can please any, even the most demanding, gardener: simple, double, pink, almost all the colors of the rainbow. Such pelargoniums appeared quite a long time ago; the first mentions of them date back to the beginning of the 18th century. The most beautiful representative of the ivy species is the white pelargonium Ice Rose. Its rather large, double flowers of snow-white color fascinate with their beauty, and the jagged small leaves emphasize the amazing tenderness and purity of the “ice rose”.
Uniques - a characteristic of ancient culture
Unicum is the “elder” among pelargoniums. In the second half of the 18th century, this specimen with carved leaves, beautiful flowers and a fragrant scent was bred. The species became especially widespread in the Victorian era, when almost no garden of the nobility could do without several representatives of this variety.
Fragrant pelargoniums: varieties
Not everyone will like the smell of pelargonium that it emits if you accidentally touch its leaves. But there are varieties that simply smell fragrant, filling the house with a variety of wonderful aromas. At first glance, these are completely inconspicuous plants, with rare, modest flowers. But this group is valued not for its beauty, but for its ability to refresh and flavor the air. If you want to smell spruce or pine, you can put a pot of Orsett, Clorinda, Fernleaf, Fair Ellen in the room. Mabel Gray, Orange Fizz (lemon), p. will fill the air with fruity notes. Moliconum (pineapple), p. Odoratissimum (apple), Fruity (fruit tones), p. Grossularioides (coconut). Perfumery connoisseurs may like the varieties Brilliante, Candy Dancer, Fragran. Gemstone and Lady Plymouth exude minty freshness.
Royal Pelargonium - the queen of the Geranium family
Perhaps the most beautiful of the entire Geranium family is royal pelargonium, endowed with royally large flowers of various shades and lush leaves similar to maple.
It was bred by hybridizing several types of flowers. In Germany it is called Pelargonia grandiflorum, and there are several other names - regale or large-flowered. Royal at home is the same as zonal, but has a more “capricious character” and requires more care. Another difference is not in favor of the “royal” - her simple relatives, with proper care, are able to bloom all year round, but she blooms buds within 3-4 months. Pelargonium is especially whimsical in winter: at this time of year it needs to create a temperature regime within 10-12 °C. If this is not done, the plant will not set buds for the next flowering. But such troubles are compensated by the noble and luxurious beauty of the flower. Distinctive feature species - flowers are almost never monochromatic. The petals must have some spots, lines, borders, lines and other “decorative elements”.
Such large, truly royal inflorescences cannot be produced by any other species: 5-7 cm in diameter is the usual size of one flower. The corrugated edge of the petals enhances the impression. This feature creates the effect of air clouds of white, lilac, purple and burgundy colors accidentally caught on jagged, carved leaves.
Varietal diversity of the crop
Today, numerous varieties of royal pelargoniums allow you to choose a flower to suit every taste. The most famous of them: Ann Hoystead, Black Prince, Bredon, Bushfire, Carisbrooke, Funchal, Margaret Soley, Lavander GeandSlam. Today, about a thousand varieties have already been bred, and the work to obtain more and more beautiful flowers from this series does not stop for a second.
The southern beauty of royal blood can boast of not only varieties. On its basis, breeders even bred the new kind– Angel Pelargonium, obtained by crossing large-flowered and curly varieties. In appearance, angel flowers are very similar to royal ones, so they are often confused. But there are still differences between the species. Angels have smaller flowers, and the structure of their stems is ampelous with small leaves. If we draw parallels with other flowers, Pelargonia grandiflorum resembles petunias, and Angel Pelargonium resembles pansies.
The most beloved varieties of angel-like flowers include: Deerwood Angel Eyes, Charmy Electro, Ansbrock Beauty, Quantock May, Tip Top Duet, Wayward Angel, Margaret Soley, Lord Bute, Morwenna.
Features of caring for royal pelargonium
In some respects, caring for royal pelargonium differs from the simple-minded care of ordinary “kalachi”. To grow royal pelargonium successfully, you need to follow some rules. What special requirements puts forward a beauty from South Africa?
Lighting. Due to its origin, the flower likes to grow in a well-lit place. For it, you should choose areas flooded with sunlight. Of course, during extreme heat it is better to remove them from the windowsills so that the leaves do not get burned. And the rest of the time the plant should not suffer from lack of light. If you break this rule, an immediate reaction from the “queen” will follow - shedding of buds, excessive stretching and “balding” of the stems. In addition, the flowering of pelargonium noticeably deteriorates: the quality and quantity of flowers decreases.
Protection from drafts. Unlike geranium and other, less demanding varieties of pelargonium, the queen flower will not bloom in gardens and parks. It is designed exclusively for indoor growing. Moreover, even at home, it is very capricious to drafts and gusts of cool wind. It grows best in glassed loggias, balconies, and also on window sills.
Water. Watering is the basis of the life of any plant, including pelargonium. She does not like over-dried soil, nor does she like over-watered soil. In the hot season, it is necessary to water it more often, depending on how quickly the soil dries out. It is advisable that the soil does not remain unmoistened for a long time.
Humidity. Regarding air humidity, Regale pelargonium is not very demanding, but in dry, hot weather it should still be sprayed with warm water. Until the moisture on the leaves and petals dries, you cannot place the pots with the plant under straight Sun rays. Such carelessness can lead to the appearance of yellow spots.
Feeding. This flower does not put forward any special “ultimatums” to the soil. But during abundant flowering in warm weather, he needs feeding. Without them, the plant will not reveal all the potential inherent in nature and scientists. The inflorescences will remain half empty.
It is best to buy ready-made fertilizers specifically designed for this flower.
Trimming. Quite an important stage in plant care. Without the formation of a bush, one should not expect beautiful and lush inflorescences. Here the question arises: when is it better to prune pelargonium - in spring or autumn? It is most effective to prune stems in autumn or winter. If pelargonium is pruned in the spring, it stops flowering. It is necessary to remove excess stems in two stages: immediately after flowering (in last days August), and then again after 45 days. It must be remembered that pruning of royal pelargonium is carried out with a disinfected tool (scissors, pruning shears), dry and “bare” stems are cut out, and the main stem is also cut by a third. The bush itself is formed compactly and symmetrically.
Reproduction of pelargoniums - features
The cut parts of the central stem will help propagate royal pelargonium if there are three or four pairs of leaves left on them. Royal pelargonium cuttings are not pre-germinated in water. None special works does not require propagation by cuttings of royal pelargonium - they are planted in small pots, having pre-treated the cuts charcoal and dry it a little (within 2-7 hours). Before rooting royal pelargonium, soil for the containers is prepared and moistened. The soil is prepared on the basis of sand and peat, which are taken in equal proportions. Cuttings of royal pelargonium can be considered completed 1.5 - 2 months after transplantation, when the seedlings have finally taken root. It is better not to carry out cuttings of pelargonium in the spring, since cutting the stems can negatively affect the flowering of the plant.
The second answer to the question: how to propagate royal pelargonium is the use of seeds. But this is a rather labor-intensive process, and the seeds of royal pelargonium sometimes give not quite the expected result, especially if they were collected from hybrids, which, as is known, belong to the first generation crops.
Problems with the “royal flower”: how to solve them?
Even if all the rules listed above are followed, over time some problems may arise with this species of the Geraniaceae family. A lot of information has been written about how to care for royal pelargonium. All sources repeat the same nuance related to the contents of the flower - the shape and size of the container for planting it. Having planted a plant in a pot that is too large, you should not be surprised that the royal pelargonium does not bloom, and the leaves and shoots no longer fit on the windowsill. This is the direct proportion of the species - the larger the flowerpot, the fewer flowers and more greenery. The flower in large containers will devote all its energy to “greening the bush”, and not to the development of beautiful inflorescences, which is what flower growers so expect from it.
Yellow leaves - causes and how to eliminate them?
Most often, many connoisseurs of this flower are faced with the fact that the leaves of pelargonium turn yellow and significantly worsen its appearance. They need to be torn off to improve the attractiveness of the plant and rid it of unnecessary, outdated leaves. The constant drying of the leaves leads to the fact that the stem eventually becomes completely “bald”. The dying off of foliage is a natural process, but if it turns into a large-scale “disaster”, then you need to look for the cause and take action. The main reasons behind the problem are as follows:
From the article you will learn how to properly care for royal pelargonium at home so that your flower does not dry out and wither, you will learn all the intricacies of keeping geraniums, how to feed, replant and propagate.
This unpretentious plant, brought to us from India and South Africa, has more than three hundred varieties and has long been widespread as a sophisticated hanging decoration for residential premises and private courtyards.
You will also learn the etymology of the names geranium and pelargonium, as well as what it is connected with.
And many more interesting facts about this charming flower.
Growing and care
Growing and caring for royal geraniums is not particularly difficult, but in order to achieve long-lasting flowering, you need to know some of the plant’s characteristics. Pelargonium in winter is severely lacking in light and it stretches out, so in the spring it is necessary to carry out formative pruning, while replacing upper layer soil onto fresh substrate, without replanting.
In summer, this aristocrat should not be taken out into the garden; it does not tolerate strong currents of fresh air and rain. However, it can be placed in closed areas: balcony, terrace or veranda.
Watering
Royal geraniums often suffer from waterlogging, but the soil should not be allowed to dry out either. Watering should be done only with settled water at room temperature, or even better - boiled. To avoid soil compaction, which this plant does not like so much, you should water through a tray; the roots will absorb exactly as much moisture as the plant needs.
Winter peace
Growing and caring for royal geraniums should include a winter dormant period with a temperature no higher than 15 degrees and scanty watering. It is at this time that the flower buds are laid. If there is no winter dormancy, there will be no flowering.
Transfer
Royal geraniums are replanted in the spring, but not every year, but only when the root system of the plant begins to climb out drainage hole pot. The new pot should not be much larger than the old one, since the royal geranium, like all geraniums, blooms better in a cramped container. During the growing season, the plant needs to be fed with a special fertilizer for pelargoniums twice a month.
- When transplanting your queen, be sure to add a decent layer of drainage to the bottom of the planting container.
- If you do not use special purchased soils, then prepare the planting mixture yourself: take garden soil, add peat and sand.
- Geranium does not like dense soils. Before transplanting, it is advisable to scald the prepared substrate.
Trimming
In winter, due to lack of sunlight, the shoots of royal pelargonium become elongated. To maintain the shape of the bush and increase bushiness, it should be pinched, and if the shoot has already stretched out, then cut it off. By March, pinching and pruning must be stopped, since in April the plant will begin to produce buds.
In summer, pinching is carried out to maintain the compact shape of the bush after flowering. And during flowering, carefully remove faded flowers.
Reproduction
Queen pelargoniums are propagated vegetatively - by cuttings. And, if our grandmothers rooted zonal pelargonium in a glass of water, then this aristocrat will not take it that way, its stems will become soft and then rot.
The most suitable period is the end of August, beginning of September, when the summer heat subsides. The tops of the shoots are cut off into about three nodes and allowed to dry for a couple of hours. Then they are sprinkled with a peat-sand mixture or sand, watered with heteroauxin or root. Cassettes or bowls are placed in partial shade.
- Watering rooting cuttings of royal pelargonium should be done moderately, only when the substrate dries out.
- You can’t pour it on the stems; it’s better to direct a stream of water around the perimeter of the pot.
- When the cuttings take root, growth will appear, which should be pinched over 3-4 pairs of leaves.
- Then they are transplanted into the prepared planting mixture, cared for according to the rules and wait for flowering next summer.
Increasing flowering time using grafting
The flowering period for queens is shorter than for zonal ones. Their bush is also not so tall. It is known that grafting plants of different vigor changes the growth pattern. So, grafting on dwarf rootstock medium-sized varieties of fruit-bearing plants, we can achieve earlier fruiting than on our own roots.
In addition, a grafted cutting, as a rule, is less inclined to stretch and more likely to branch, growing a compact bush. These are the qualities needed to graft royal pelargonium onto a very tall zonal one.
In zonal pelargonium, the crown is cut off at a height of approximately 60 cm. This remaining trunk must be mature. The lower end of the scion (royal pelargonium stalk about 10 cm) is cut off with a sharp knife using a wedge. Both branches should be approximately the same diameter.
- A V-shaped incision of 2 cm is made at the top of the zonal bole.
- A pointed scion is inserted into this split; the branches are aligned flush with each other along the edges of the split.
- The resulting joint is then wrapped with grafting film.
- It is better to start wrapping from top to bottom with a slight overlap, grabbing a little of both the scion and the stem.
For the growth of a grafted bush, it is advisable to install a support and constantly remove buds from the stem. If suddenly the royal pelargonium immediately begins to form buds, then it is better to pinch them off, otherwise all the energy will be spent on flowering and not growing together.
So, having examined the features of caring for royal pelargonium at home, we focused on the differences between cultivation and propagation from the previously common type of zonal pelargonium.
An interesting way to increase the duration of flowering is proposed - grafting. 
ogorodsadovod.com
Caring for royal geraniums
I bought royal geraniums at the market from one grandmother. I really liked its flowering, which lasted quite a long time and most importantly, this flower did not cause me any trouble. But despite this, there are still some rules that must be followed. True, there are very few of them.
Brief information on caring for royal geraniums
- Temperature: normal;
- Lighting: loves it when there is a lot of light. It even prefers direct sunlight.
- Watering: plentiful. But between waterings, the top layer of soil should dry out.
- Humidity: not demanding. Even afraid of water getting on the leaves.
- Transplantation: in spring, if necessary.
- Reproduction: cuttings. You can use seeds if you have the patience for it.
Possible diseases of royal geranium
The lower leaves turn yellow
There may be two options here. First, if the leaves are elastic, but their tips are dry, it means there is not enough moisture. Well, if the leaves, on the contrary, are limp and even begin to rot, then in this case there is an excess of moisture.
The leaves of the royal geranium are turning red
The reason may be low temperature. If winter is cold and your windows are wooden, then remove the plants from the window for a while. 
The stem has darkened
- Unfortunately, the cause is such a dangerous disease as blackleg. Unfortunately, the plant cannot be saved. And to avoid infecting other flowers, ruthlessly throw away the plant and soil. Be sure to treat the pot with bleach or another product. You can also boil it.
The lower leaves fall off and the stem becomes bare
Royal geraniums do not get enough sunlight.
Watery pads appeared on the leaves
The reason is waterlogging of the soil. Just reduce the watering and soon everything will be fine.
Gray mold appeared on the leaves
The cause is fungal infection due to excess moisture. Unfortunately, the disease is contagious and urgent measures need to be taken. There is no need to throw out the plant, but remove the affected leaves as quickly as possible and treat the plant with a special preparation.
Of the pests, whiteflies and weevils love royal geranium. 
Royal geranium care and propagation
Royal geranium differs from its sister zonal pelargonium in that it has a dormant period during which it is important to provide the plant with a cool temperature.
- If you don't do this, then you for a long time you won’t see its beautiful, truly royal flowers.
- The thing is that during the dormant period the plant regains its strength and if the room is hot, then all its strength is spent on somehow existing.
- As a result, energy is wasted in winter and there is simply no energy left for flowering.
- Also, this type of pelargonium is afraid of heat. If the room is very hot, the flowers may wither, and if there are buds, they will wither without opening.
If possible, plant your beauty outside in the summer. However, it is important that she is not exposed to rain or wind, which she is very afraid of. Place the flower in a windless place and protected from rain, for example, on a terrace or balcony.
Watering royal pelargonium
As for watering, the plant loves water. Therefore, water it abundantly, but do not allow water to stagnate, it is very afraid of it. In addition, waterlogging is more dangerous than drying out the soil. If the soil dries out, then there is a better chance of saving the plant. But frequent waterlogging causes root rot. And if the roots begin to rot, then it is almost impossible to save the plant. 
Make it a rule to water royal geraniums only when the top layer of soil dries out..
And don’t forget to regularly pamper your beauty with nutrients, especially during flowering. Therefore, during the active period, pelargonium is fed every 10 days. But during the rest period it is better to refuse fertilizing.
Royal geranium propagation by cuttings
Of course, if you are determined and have the patience and strength, you can try growing pelargonium with seeds that you can buy in the store, or collect it from the plant when it begins to bloom.
- But I personally lately choose the most simple methods, allowing you to save time, and most importantly, nerves.
- In general, now I try to propagate any plants by cuttings.
- In most cases, you can also go in two ways: plant the cutting in the ground or put it in water and wait for the roots to appear and only then plant it in the ground (unfortunately, this method is not suitable for royal pelargonium).
- It is better to cut apical cuttings for propagation (you can take them during pruning) at the end of August and until September. Choose cuttings that have 2-3 internodes. Leave the cutting for a couple of hours to let it dry, and then place it in the ground.
To speed up the formation of roots, I cut off the leaves of the cuttings, leaving 2-3 upper leaves. Thus, the plant does not need to expend energy to provide nutrition to the leaves. There is no need to cover the rooting cuttings with oilcloth. Also try not to over-water the cuttings. 
delniesoveti.ru
Features of large-flowered pelargonium
As befits a plant with such a big name, at home, royal pelargonium, in the photo, is more demanding of care than common varieties of zonal geranium, and it does not bloom for such a long time. But, having seen only once the huge flowers collected in inflorescences-umbrellas different forms and colors, it is impossible not to be eager to grow an equally beautiful plant on your windowsill.
Royal pelargonium, reaching a height of 30–60 cm, differs from other varieties:
- folded leaves with a dense, rough-to-the-touch leaf blade and jagged edges;
- large, up to 7 cm in diameter, simple and double flowers.
The decorative effect of the inflorescences is added by the multi-colored coloring of the petals, but while the flowering period of zonal geraniums ends in autumn, the last inflorescences of royal pelargonium wither in the second half of summer.
As a result, you can admire the caps of airy bright flowers for 3 to 5 months, and it is doubly offensive if buds never appear on the bush in the spring.
Why doesn't royal pelargonium bloom?
Having planted a young plant in the ground, amateur gardeners look forward to the appearance of spectacular inflorescences above the greenery, but sometimes they have to face disappointment.
Instead of flowers, large-flowered geranium produces only greenery, and the rapidly growing shoots soon lose their appearance and become elongated.
What mistakes were made when caring for royal pelargonium at home, and why, as in the photo, was the plant left with almost no flowers?
Indeed, if pelargonium does not bloom in due time, this may indicate:
- about incorrectly selected temperature conditions or lack of lighting;
- that the plant is planted in a pot that is too large or receives fertilizers of an inharmonious composition;
- about untimely transplantation;
- about illiterate pruning or its complete absence.
How to care for royal pelargonium so that the plant blooms regularly, is healthy and does not lose its decorative appearance all year round?
Summer care for royal pelargonium at home
When speaking about the unpretentiousness of pelargoniums, experts of this species are not lying at all.
In order for royal pelargonium to feel comfortable and delight its owners with abundant flowering, the gardener needs to adhere to just a few rules that will lay the foundation for the success of the entire cultivation.
Large-flowered varieties of pelargonium are demanding of lighting and like to be exposed to the brightest sunny windows. Only on the hottest days do plants need darkening to protect them from burns; in other cases, limiting light is a risk:
- stretching and exposing shoots;
- reducing the intensity of flowering;
- dropping buds that have already appeared.
Unlike related varieties, royal pelargonium does not tolerate drafts and cold winds; if such a plant is planted in the garden, it will probably not please you with its inflorescences. Therefore, royal pelargoniums are grown at home, and care in the summer includes protection from drafts. Plants feel great and bloom profusely on glazed sunny terraces and loggias.
If the air is excessively dry in summer, pelargonium can be sprayed with water at room temperature, making sure that wet leaves and inflorescences are not exposed to direct rays of the sun.
At the same time, do not forget about watering and fertilizing flower plants. Although pelargonium easily tolerates dry periods and is not too demanding on the composition of the soil, without water and nutrition it will undoubtedly not produce the required number of flowers. In the warm season, large-flowered varieties require especially abundant watering, which is carried out when the top layer of soil dries out a little.
Features of winter care for large-flowered geraniums
After withering luxurious flowers Pelargonium should recover, but if it is left on a warm windowsill until next spring, you may not wait for the next flowering. How to care for pelargonium in autumn and winter? With the onset of autumn, when the temperature drops, caring for royal pelargonium at home changes. For three months the plant is provided with:
- temperature about 12–15 °C;
- rare watering, which only supports the decreased activity of pelargonium;
- sufficient lighting.
Feeding is stopped for the entire wintering period. If all care conditions are met, the plant lays a sufficient amount flower buds and when it emerges from its winter torpor it will certainly bloom luxuriously.
Transplanting and feeding royal pelargonium
All types of pelargonium are different rapid growth aboveground part of the plant. If the roots of a bush that has grown considerably over the summer, taken out of the pot along with the soil, have completely entwined the earthen ball, at the end of winter the royal geranium is replanted.
- The soil for this crop should be loose, well-permeable and retain moisture.
- When wondering why royal pelargonium does not bloom, the gardener must also take into account the correct selection of soil mixture.
- A good option is a mixture of equal parts of disinfected garden soil, sand and peat.
Since the root system of the plant does not tolerate stagnant moisture, pelargonium requires a powerful drainage layer, and no less attention is paid to the selection of the pot when planting. It is because of transplantation into too large a container that many gardeners experience disappointment in the culture, and royal pelargonium does not bloom.
Once in a large pot, the plant rapidly increases its green mass, but completely “forgets” about the set of buds.
A similar process occurs with the wrong mixture of fertilizers. If nitrogen predominates in fertilizing during the formation of buds and flowering, the stems and leaves grow, and there are fewer and fewer buds. The best mixtures for feeding pelargonium are characterized by a high content of potassium and phosphorus, which ensures abundant and long-lasting flowering. 
Pruning pelargonium
The reason why royal pelargonium does not bloom may be incorrect or insufficient pruning. Since the plant grows quickly and buds form at the tops of the shoots, it is easy to increase pure flower buds by pinching or cutting off the tops of overgrown stems in July and August. This measure will allow:
- use the resulting cuttings for propagation;
- achieve lush flowering next season;
- stimulate the growth of young shoots;
- give the bush a compact, attractive shape.
It is better to prune the plant gradually, without seriously injuring the pelargonium, and after the operation the plant must be fed. At the end of winter, with the beginning of new bud formation, pruning is completed.
Pelargonium cuttings
The resulting cuttings can be rooted all year round, but in the warm season it is much easier to do this.
As planting material take strong shoot tips that have at least two pairs of leaves and are cut 5 mm below the node. It is better to cut off the lower leaves immediately and leave no more than 3 upper leaf plates. After this, the cut areas on the cuttings are treated with crushed charcoal and left in air for 18–24 hours.
True, there is another way. Already 10 minutes after separation from the mother plant, cut cuttings:
- treated with root;
- planted in a mixture of sand, humus and peat;
- Cover with non-woven material for 2–3 days.
Planting cuttings in moistened peat tablets gives good results.
In any case, the plantings are watered with a solution of phytosporin, which will protect the cuts from the development of rot. How to care for pelargonium after the cuttings have taken root?
It will take 8 to 12 weeks until the cuttings, kept at a temperature of 19–23 °C, take root well. After this time:
- young plants are planted on permanent place;
- pinch the main shoot above the third pair of leaves, which will force the bush to produce new side stems.
If you care for royal pelargonium at home, as in the photo, well, the young plants develop well, and next spring small, neat bushes produce their first inflorescences. 
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Caring for royal geraniums
Timely and proper care of royal geraniums allows you to form a regular and strong bush during the first year of life, which in the second year of its life will give you lush, bright buds.
- Caring for royal pelargonium begins from the moment you decide to keep this plant in your home. You need to choose the right one appropriate place for landing.
- Royal geranium does not bring drafts, dry air or direct sunlight. Also, the plant does not like high air temperatures and insufficient watering.
- However, overmoistening the earthen clod will not do anything good.
As you understand, the optimal place for growing is a north or east window, under which there is no battery central heating and which is not used to ventilate the room during the cold season. In spring, summer and autumn period Royal geranium feels great in a glassed-in loggia. However, if there is a threat of the first frost, you should remove the plant to the room.
In the spring-summer period, an ambient temperature of up to 25 degrees Celsius is suitable for the growth of geranium. In autumn and winter, you should not allow temperatures to rise above 20 degrees Celsius.
Landing
To organize proper care of royal geraniums at home, planting is important. For growing, choose ceramic pots. They save optimal temperature earthen coma and ensure uniform air distribution. There must be a drain hole to remove excess moisture.
- Pour expanded clay or any other drainage into the bottom of the pot. Next, fill the container with turf soil with a high organic content.
- You can apply 1 tablespoon of nitrogen fertilizers at once to ensure sufficient nutrition for the plant during the period of green mass growth.
- After planting, keep the royal pelargonium for 2 weeks in a shaded place and water it 2 times a day.
Royal geraniums should be replanted no more than once every 3 years. It is best to refrain from this event. This indoor flower is extremely painful to transplant and may even die.
Also, caring for royal geraniums includes timely application of fertilizing. In spring and summer, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers once a week. Potassium and phosphorus should predominate. In autumn and winter, add nitrogen and organic fertilizers 1 time per month.
Be sure to shape the plant by pinching. The first pruning is carried out at the moment when the plant reaches a stem height of 15 cm. All tops are cut off by 2 cm. The second pinch is needed at the moment when the side shoots reach a length of 5 cm. Trim all their tops by 1 cm.
After this, you will get a spherical shape of the bush, which, with proper care of the royal geranium, will give abundant flowering in the second year. 
Propagation by cuttings of royal geranium
At home, it is advisable to propagate royal geraniums by cuttings. Although propagation by seeds is not excluded. In this case, sowing is carried out in the first half of February in structured loose soil to a depth of 0.5 cm. Flooring as necessary. Picking in the phase when seedlings have 2 true leaves.
- Propagation by cuttings of royal pelargonium is available to every gardener, if available mature plant. In spring or autumn, cuttings up to 10 cm long are cut.
- For this it is better to use sharp knife. Cutting should be done at an angle of 45 degrees.
- Immediately after cutting, 2 leaves are removed from below, and the cuttings are placed in water at room temperature for 7 - 10 days until roots appear.
After this, the cuttings are rooted in light structured soil in small diameter containers. Transplantation to a permanent place occurs after 2 months. To improve the rooting process, it is important to prepare the soil mixture. Add the same amount of construction or river sand to any soil. After mixing, pour boiling water over the entire soil. A strong solution of manganese is also suitable for disinfection. But after watering, plants can be planted in 48 hours.
When rooting has passed, growth of the top begins. Be sure to trim it to 1 cm. This will stimulate the growth of side shoots.
Why doesn't the royal geranium bloom?
Many novice gardeners wonder why royal geraniums do not bloom. This may be a consequence of improper care, frequent transplants and the presence of bacterial and fungal infections.
First of all, carefully inspect the plant for dark spots on the leaves, fuzz on the stems and rot in the root part. If signs of disease are found, then the entire root system should be cleared of soil, rinsed under running water and placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 2 to 3 days. Clean or remove all affected parts of the plant.
Prepare fresh soil. If the same pot is to be used, disinfect it with a bleach solution. Before replanting, also disinfect the soil with boiling water. Replant the plant and carefully monitor the appearance of new signs of disease. 
Signs of morbidity:
- Also, royal geranium does not bloom if improper care and growth conditions are provided.
- For example, excessive dry air leads to the systematic falling off of buds and flower stalks.
- Their formation occurs only if the soil contains sufficient quantities of phosphorus, potassium and manganese.
- If nitrogen is applied in excess, green mass quickly increases and there is no flowering.
Another option why royal geranium pelargonium does not bloom is that the container in which the plant grows is too large. For this indoor flower, tall, but not wide, pots are more suitable. This ensures long-lasting abundant flowering. A large pot leads to the growth of green mass and lack of budding.
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Caring for royal pelargonium
Among the huge variety of pelargoniums, this is a real “aristocrat” - royal pelargonium (Regal Pelargonium) . Because of its large flowers it is also called: large-flowered pelargonium (Pelargonium grandiflorum). It differs from other varieties of indoor geranium (pelargonium) primarily in its large flowers. It also lacks the characteristic aroma of geraniums, which not everyone likes. And most importantly, unlike its “relatives”, royal pelargonium is capricious and whimsical at home.
Over the past decades, breeders have developed many varieties of royal pelargonium.
They differ in the shape, size and color of the flowers.
- For example, the flower that I bought in the greenhouse then has soft pink petals with small dark spots. This is Pelargonium Pink Mikado.
- But its other varieties are also beautiful: Aristo Schoko (pale red with light brown spots), Barkarole (variegated with silver edging), Imperial (white and pink).
- And how gorgeous are the dark royal pelargoniums: Black Berry and Black Butterfly.
In a word, today the royal pelargonium flower is represented in a mass of shades: from white to inky purple. And the shape of flowers is most often not simple, but double, and the petals of some varieties are wavy or corrugated.
The leaves of royal pelargonium are jagged, rough, and quite large. Although among the new varieties there are varieties with small leaves and small flowers, the shape of the leaves of royal pelargonium remains unchanged. 
Light and warmth for royal pelargonium
I brought my beauty of royal blood home in bloom and did not dare to replant it right away. I wanted to admire it. I placed the ugly temporary flowerpot in a spacious, elegant flowerpot (for a queen, the decoration should be appropriate) and placed it on a stand not far from the window, where diffused sunlight fell on it, and it was warm all the time.
- After the pelargonium bloomed, I replanted it. The soil used was the same as for other types of geranium: a well-drained, light, slightly acidic substrate for flowering plants.
- It's a pity, but royal pelargonium blooms for a very short time. Approximately from April to August.
- In addition, in order for it to bloom at all (and for many lovers it does not want to produce buds), it needs to be kept cool for several months.
- Royal pelargonium flowers generally require a temperature of 10-15 degrees during the dormant period, so try to find the coolest place in the apartment for it in autumn and winter.
In summer, when royal pelargonium blooms, it needs warmth. But it’s not hot at all! The heat may cause the leaves to dry out, but the buds may not open. When growing royal pelargonium, diseases may appear - insect pests (aphids or whiteflies) or spots from sunburn appear on the leaves.
In the warm season, royal pelargonium can be planted in open ground(the coolness of the night will only promote flowering). In any case, that's exactly what I do. But royal pelargonium is afraid of rain and wind - do not forget about its delicacy. Place it on a veranda or terrace protected from the wind. In an apartment perfect place for the summer period - a closed balcony.
And in order for royal pelargonium to bloom and bush, you need to pinch the top shoots in advance (from February-March to April).
Watering and fertilizing royal pelargonium
The beautiful royal pelargonium does not mind abundant watering during flowering.
- You can water directly into the soil.
- But we must not allow moisture to stagnate or, on the contrary, the earthen clod to dry out.
- Leaves and buds will immediately droop and may begin to fall off.
- If overwatered, the roots may rot.
- I water the royal pelargonium as the soil dries out.
Like any geranium at home, royal pelargonium will grow and bloom better if it is fed on time. This should be done only in spring and summer, but not during the dormant period. For feeding I use liquid fertilizers high in potassium (for flowers) and microelements.
Propagation of royal pelargonium
- Believe my experience: under no circumstances should royal pelargonium cuttings be placed in water for germination - they will rot or simply not take root. And the young sprout also needs to be watered moderately.
- I planted the rooted sprouts in permanent pots filled with drainage mixture from the bottom and a light substrate to the top.
- The first year the royal pelargonium is just settling into its palace– builds up the root system and expels shoots. But already in the second year, truly royal flowers will bloom.
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Main varieties of pelargonium
- Zonal(non-double, double, star and others) are the most undemanding varietal pelargoniums to care for.
- Royal geranium is a variety of flowers with large, showy flowers.
- Ampelous, scented and succulent pelargoniums have interestingly shaped leaves.
- Fragrant When touching the leaves, pelargoniums emit the smells of lemon, wormwood, mint, pine and other aromas.
Geranium and Pelargonium - why two names?
Why are flowers called differently - Geranium, Pelargonium? The names of the flower, both, are associated with birds. The name “geranium” is translated from the Greek geranios as “crane”, and “pelargonium” (pelargos) - as “stork”. The fruits of the plant look like the beaks of these birds, hence the names.
- That heat-loving perennial that grows at home and does not tolerate cold is pelargonium. A frost-resistant geranium grows quietly and overwinters in gardens and flower beds.
- Pelargonium seeds actually resemble the beak of a stork or crane, and are also very similar to the Tari bird.
- But we often call home pelargonium geranium. It's not that important. The main thing is that the plant brings a lot of joy to its owners.
- Growing geraniums at home is easy: it is easy to care for and easy to propagate. And as a gift for your care - colorful flowers of zonal, ampelous, royal pelargoniums or the lush greenery of fragrant geraniums.
Unlike indoor geraniums, garden geraniums are practically not afraid of frost at all and grow quietly in our garden plots and gardens. summer cottages, delighting gardeners with its modest flowers.
On our windowsills you can often see the beautiful Azalea, which presents the owner with flowers with truly royal generosity. 
Easy and simple to care for
Lots of light and space, optimal watering and maintenance temperature regime- components of success when caring for a flower.
Accommodation
Pelargonium is doing well on window sills facing south. With a lack of lighting, it blooms worse and the stem becomes bare.
- But on hot days it needs to be shaded from the direct rays of the sun.
- Geranium loves space.
- When placing it, you need to make sure that neighboring flowers do not interfere with it.
- On southern windowsills indoor geranium feels great.
Temperature and watering
The temperature in the place where geraniums are placed must be maintained not lower than +10-15°C. Temperatures below these values provoke exposure of the stems and cessation of flowering. If during the frosty period the edges of the leaves of a geranium standing on the windowsill turn red, then you need to move the pot with the plant away from the window.
Like all hanging plants, this type of geranium is best grown in a hanging basket.
Although geranium drought-resistant flower, the soil in the pot should not dry out too much, otherwise flowering will be poor. As soon as the soil in the pot begins to dry out, it’s time to water it. If the room is sunny or hot from heating, then it is better to water daily or once every 2 days, and when it is cool or cloudy, then every 3-4 days. But you shouldn’t overwater the flower either, otherwise the root collar will begin to rot. Then the plant may die.
Planting and replanting - what soil and pots
Pelargonium not demanding on soil. A good drainage layer at the bottom of the pot is essential. It is needed to prevent excess water from collecting in the soil: this leads to rotting of the roots.
As a rule, the pot chosen is not very large.
Indoor flower grows well on neutral and slightly alkaline soils. As an example, here are three compositions of earthen mixtures for planting homemade geraniums:
- humus, leaf, turf soil, sand (2:2:2:1);
- peat, garden soil, sand (1:1:1);
- compost, peat, humus soil, sand (1:1:1:1).
Young plants are replanted every year or every other year in March-April.
The pot should be small. The root system in the ground should, if possible, occupy the entire volume. When the roots are somewhat crowded, pelargoniums bloom more abundantly.
Cuttings on an industrial scale. 
We propagate the beauty
- Seeds. They are sown at the beginning of the year, spread out on moist soil and sprinkled with a small layer of soil for seedlings. Place in a warm place, covering the container with pelargonium seeds with glass. The soil is moistened from time to time. The emerging seedlings are planted and grown for a couple of months in a place that is well lit. Then the seedlings are planted in permanent pots.
- By cuttings. When roots grow from a cutting placed in a bowl of water in spring or mid-summer, it is transplanted into a pot with soil. The water is changed periodically during the process. You can also plant cut cuttings in a loose earthen mixture, which is periodically slightly moistened during the rooting process. There is no need to build greenhouses to avoid rotting.
- Dividing the bush. In February-March or July-August, the soil along with pelargonium is pulled out of the pot, turning it upside down. Then they carefully pull the flower stems apart and place them in new pots.
Flower growers know that indoor plants can be grown
not only for aesthetics, but also for health. A prominent representative of such medicinal indoor plants is Kalanchoe.
Aloe is another equally important medicinal plant, which can be successfully grown on a windowsill.
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How to trim
Boldly and a lot. Especially when there is nothing to save - with bare stems. Better - in the fall. It is also possible in the spring - when replanting the plant. To form good branching and a lower crown, adult stems are pruned so that only stumps no more than 4-7 cm high from the ground are preserved.
The main thing is that there are from two to five buds left on the stumps. In any season, to improve the branching of the stems, you can also pinch out young branches.
You can see how, after such a bold pruning, several new shoots have already appeared. 
Typical diseases
Pelargonium gets sick most often due to excess watering and lack of fresh air. If a dark spot appears near the rhizome, the stem tissues begin to soften. In this case, it is not easy to save the plant. To prevent gray rot, “black leg” and other fungal diseases, the soil before planting pelargonium is sterilized, the growing area is ventilated more often, and the plants are treated with a fungicide once a year.
These flowers most likely cannot be saved; they were watered too generously.
If the leaves turn yellow, then you need to put the plant in a place where there is more light in the room and adjust the watering regime. The appearance of pads with watery contents on the leaves indicates waterlogging of the soil in the pot.
Control of winged and crawling pests(aphids, mites, weevils, whiteflies) comes down to the use of fungicides and compounds containing permethrin.
The plant does not have enough light, the leaves have begun to turn yellow.
Victoria Glendinning, a British writer, talks about Pelargonium as a living thing. She writes that geranium blooms better, if you talk to her kindly from time to time. And too much attention, loosening and fertilizing depress and confuse her.
Geranium essential oil with its aroma calms and harmonizes thoughts and space.
Breathe healing scent of pelargonium
useful for high blood pressure. Pelargonium juice has beneficial properties antiseptic: apply a crushed leaf to the wound and bandage it - it will heal quickly. Crushed geranium leaves are effective for ear inflammation, radiculitis and osteochondrosis. The smell of pelargonium repels flies and plant pests. A leaf placed in the ear of a domestic dog or cat will rid the animal of ticks.
The fragrant flowers may not make you happy, but the smell is amazing!
Pelargonium is very popular among gardeners and all lovers of indoor plants. People call this type of flower geranium; the Royal geranium variety is considered the brightest and most beautiful. It is distinguished by its extraordinary splendor of flowering, its size and exceptional variety of color palette.
Pelargonium is very popular among gardeners and all lovers of indoor plants.
Royal geranium is one of the most large varieties, its beauty leaves no one indifferent; it grows as a large, wide shrub, which during flowering seems to be densely strewn with flowers, often reaching 15 cm in diameter. Flowers can have different colors depending on the variety; the characteristic difference of this species is a dark inclusion on the upper part of the petals; in appearance, many compare them with pansies.
So, it’s worth finding out in more detail what kind of care this beauty needs and how difficult it is to grow it.
The fact that this pelargonium is called Royal gives some definition to its species. Indeed, this variety is quite capricious and requires special care at home. Its appearance corresponds to its name; it differs from other varieties in its size and shape. More large flowers It is difficult to find among this genus - perhaps this is its main difference.
Its leaves also have characteristic features: they seem to be covered with small hairs, which is why they become rough to the touch, and are quite large, their edges have a jagged shape.
It is worth noting that Royal Geranium does not emit a scent. Experts are working hard on new varieties of this species, surprising each time with the unusual color and size of the flowers.
The place where the Royal Geranium is placed should be well lit; many experts recommend providing it with additional lighting; fluorescent lamps are ideal for this. The plant does not like drafts and cold, so it is worth positioning it in such a way that the room can be ventilated without creating drafts.
Royal geranium is one of the largest varieties; its beauty leaves no one indifferent
The optimal place for this flower will be the south side, namely the windows or loggia. In summer, the plant must be protected from direct sunlight to avoid burns of the foliage. If you do not move the flower pot from the windowsill, you can use blinds to regulate the light supply. The temperature in the room where the flower is located should not be lower than +10ºС and not higher than +30ºС.
It blooms mostly for a short time, but with proper care and regular feeding, Royal geranium can bloom from April to August. To form a bush, you need to periodically pinch out the branches, as well as carry out sanitary cleaning, removing faded flowers and dried leaves.
The geranium bush should be trimmed regularly, this will significantly increase the number of flowers on it. Pruning is performed for lush flowering, since the plant redirects all its forces not to greening the branches, but to the density of the flowers. Pruning is carried out several times a year. The first time it is performed before the winter period, as soon as the plant has faded.
Remove half a branch with flowers, this reduces the risk of developing diseases and makes it possible to successfully enter a state of hibernation. The main thing is not to immediately apply fertilizer, otherwise the flower, on the contrary, will actively begin to grow and restore the cuttings, and the root system in this case will become stressed and exhausted.
The second time pruning is done at the end of winter or beginning of spring. If the bush has grown significantly, then it can be trimmed a little and given shape. The cut must be made obliquely and with an exceptionally sharp instrument, which is disinfected before starting work.
The easiest way to purchase soil for a plant is in a flower salon or store; you can prepare the substrate yourself, using the following in equal proportions:
- black soil from a greenhouse;
- coarse river sand.
It is worth keeping in mind that purchased substrates have big amount nutrients than ordinary black soil. The soil should be fertile, fairly loose, not light. When planting, be sure to lay a drainage layer on the bottom of the pot; expanded clay or small crushed stone is ideal for this.
Royal geranium likes regular watering. For humidification, use only settled water at room temperature. You need to water as the top layer of soil dries, but do not wait until soil crusts and cracks form. Excess moisture is also undesirable for a southern beauty; stagnation of moisture in a flowerpot leads to disease of the root system and death of the flower. In winter, if the room has enough humidity and low temperature, reduce watering.
Royal geranium loves fertilizing; it needs to be applied regularly. In winter and autumn, you can fertilize once every 2 months, and in summer and spring - 1-2 times a month.
Flower growers often keep a special diary in which the Royal geranium is noted every day. After all, it is important to know when the flowers were fertilized and with what preparations. This helps not to get confused and fertilize according to the scheme. The optimal fertilizers for flowers are preparations that include:
- phosphorus;
- nitrogen;
- potassium;
- minerals.
Fertilizers can be applied only after the plant has been watered; moistened soil will avoid possible burns to the root system.
Do not use organic fertilizers for fertilizing, decorative look geraniums may even die from such substances.
If you feed the plant correctly, this will allow it to bloom longer and more luxuriantly.
Gallery: Royal geranium (25 photos + video)
Plant grafting
One of the most important points In caring for this type of plant is the implementation of the so-called grafting. It is performed in order to obtain a new color on an adult bush and to form a crown. The process itself is the transplantation of a young shoot or shoot from one plant to another. Young plants that are not yet 1 year old, as well as depleted and sick specimens, are not subject to grafting.
So, the first stage is separating a piece of a young sprout from the cutting. For this, it is better to use a regular blade; it is thinner and can be used to make a figured cut. The upper part of the sprout, 2-3 cm long, is cut out in a V-shape with the tip down. For replanting, choose a cutting of the same width so that at least one side of the grafting material matches. Insert the scion into the rootstock and fix it if desired.
The optimal place for this flower will be the south side, namely the windows or loggia
Propagation by seeds
This decorative type of geranium can be propagated in 2 ways:
- By cuttings;
- Seeds.
Both methods are actively used by flower growers.
So, sowing seeds:
- The best time for sowing is winter or spring. A substrate enriched with useful minerals is placed in a special container. You can buy ready-made soil or mix the following components yourself: 2 parts turf soil, 1 part river sand and 1 part peat.
- Next is to prepare the seeds themselves. Initially, they must be treated in solutions such as Zircon or Epin; this should be done strictly according to the instructions. After processing, they need to be soaked in water at room temperature for at least 2-3 hours.
- Since the seeds are quite small, they are not buried individually in the ground. Planting proceeds as follows: seeds are carefully placed in a container with soil and lightly sprinkled with substrate on top. After this, the container must be covered with glass. In the future, it is necessary to ventilate every day by opening glass lid and removing condensation. The container is placed in a warm and well-ventilated room with an air temperature of +20ºС.
- After 14 days, young shoots will appear. As soon as 2-3 leaves sprout on each of them, you can transplant them into an individual pot. Its size should be small, no more than 10-15 cm, depending on the seedlings.
Of course, this method of reproduction is quite long and labor-intensive, and not always everything will work out the first time.
Cutting method
This variety can be propagated by cuttings; to do this, you need to cut off young cuttings with branches at the top from the main branches. The length of the planting material must be at least 5-8 cm, the cut site must be treated with crushed coal, and when working, use a sterile and fairly sharp instrument.
Popularly known as royal geranium, and in scientific literature as pelargonium, it has long been used to create landscape design: for landscaping window sills and balconies, decorating gardens and roofs of houses. Such widespread use is explained not only by the beautiful appearance, the delicious aromas of plants, but also some special positive energy that they bring into the house.
Pelargonium royal: a brief description
The name of the flower was not chosen by chance. This is truly a royal plant. It is presented in the form of an evergreen shrub. This culture is different maximum dimensions at 50 cm.
Royal geranium grows in a wide bush, and the peduncles are placed at the same level as the shoots. The plant is characterized by large flowers, up to 15 cm in diameter. The larger petals, which are located on top, usually have dark green spots. During flowering, a geranium bush has densely dotted open buds, sometimes resembling a lush bright ball.
Pelargonium royal: decorative properties
It should be noted that for many years, breeders have been making a lot of effort to develop new varieties of this plant. They differ in the color of the flowers, their size and shape. The shades of royal geranium today are a mass of different tones: from white to inky purple. For example, white-pink pelargonium (Imperial), pale red with small brown spots (Aristo Shoko) and others are especially interesting for lovers of the flowers of this plant.
Also, the leaves of royal geranium have their own characteristics. These are rather large or small (in new species), jagged and rough leaves. Dark spots often stand out against their background and sometimes even contrasting stripes run along the veins.
The shape of the plant’s flowers is in most cases complex: their petals are double, and in some varieties they are corrugated or wavy. They are collected in several pieces and look like thick umbrellas.
Main features of the plant
Royal geranium is truly an aristocrat among other types of pelargonium. She is whimsical and light-loving.
This plant does not bloom for long: about a few months a year. Yes, and this only happens if throughout the winter she was provided with everything the necessary conditions. Royal geranium loves if it is organized at this time additional lighting.
It should be noted that this culture is afraid of wind and rain. Due to this the best option its placement will be a cozy corner of the veranda, balcony or terrace with plenty of fresh air.
Growing conditions for royal geranium
In order for royal pelargonium to successfully take root on the windowsill of the house and delight the eye with wonderful flowers for a long time, it is very important to provide it with the necessary conditions:
- Correct placement. Flowers love the sun, but in hot weather they need to be removed from the windowsill, since direct hot rays of the sun can cause burns on the plant.
- Maintaining the temperature regime of royal pelargonium. It does not tolerate high temperatures, especially heat, this explains why royal geranium does not bloom. No higher than 15 degrees Celsius is the most favorable temperature for the plant. If this condition is not observed, then whiteflies or aphids may appear on the leaves of the crop.
- The peculiarities of preserving flowering for a long time are ensured by two basic rules: additional lighting in winter and rare watering.
Royal geranium: propagation
Royal pelargonium can be propagated in two ways:
- stem cuttings (throughout the year);
- seeds ( best time for planting in spring).
It should be noted that royal geranium is very popular among gardeners. Plant seeds can be purchased at almost any specialty store. They are quite large. The seeds are planted in a peat mixture in the spring, and within a week the first green shoots appear. As soon as the leaves appear, they need to be transplanted into pots. To avoid damaging the roots, they should be taken with a small lump of earth.
Stem cuttings of royal geranium are recommended to be planted in August-September. They are taken at a certain length, which ranges from 5 to 7 cm, with 2 or 3 leaves. Before planting, it is very good to wilt the plant a little and sprinkle it with crushed wood charcoal. Pots for cuttings should not be too large, as this will cause them to grow weak, including the royal geranium flower itself over time. The propagation of this crop and its excellent growth are ensured by well-prepared soil:
- peat mixture, with the addition small quantity compost;
- garden soil, where it is recommended to add a little sand.
Wet soil is not at all suitable for planting cuttings. It should only be wet. It is advisable to make drainage in pots from small pebbles. When watering them, you should avoid getting water on the stems and leaves, as they quickly rot.
It is important to know:
- It is not advisable to germinate cuttings of royal pelargonium in water. In most cases, they still do not take root or simply rot.
- During the first 12 months of growth, the royal geranium drives out runs and grows its roots, and pleases the eye with flowers only the next year.
It is recommended to replant royal geranium when the root system has developed to such an extent that it begins to penetrate outward through the drainage hole. New peas are taken only about one and a half centimeters larger in diameter than the old ones. Tight dishes provide best growth and flowering of culture.
Problems with growing royal pelargonium
Royal geranium - very capricious plant. When growing as a result of non-compliance with basic care rules, the following problems may occur:
- stretching of internodes, which leads to weakening of the plant, it becomes weak and does not grow;
- waterlogging of the soil or its drying out, and as a result, yellowing of the leaves;
- damage to leaves by rust, the formation of aphids or whiteflies on them;
- rotting of the plant under frequent watering.
Lack of flowers in royal geranium. Causes. Ways to solve the problem
Pelargonium is a rather capricious plant that requires careful attention. Therefore, very often many gardeners have the same question about why royal geraniums do not bloom. This may be due to the following reasons:
- improper care of the plant;
- the use of frequent transplants;
- the presence of bacterial and fungal infections.
The second question that concerns many lovers of this plant: “What to do if the royal geranium does not bloom?” The first step is to carefully examine the royal geranium to detect the following problems: the presence of fuzz on the stems, dark spots on the leaves or rot, especially in the root part. Secondly, if the above signs of the disease are obvious, you should thoroughly clean the entire root system of royal pelargonium from the soil. Then it is placed for up to three days in a solution of potassium permanganate (it should be weak). After this, it is necessary to thoroughly clean all affected parts of the plant. It is recommended to remove them.
It is not advisable to use an old pot, and soil is strictly prohibited. Should be prepared new ground, which is very good to steam with boiling water. The old pot must be disinfected. To do this, use a solution of bleach.
Also, the plant does not bloom if the air in the room is too dry. This leads to the falling off of flower stalks and buds.
The soil used for planting cuttings of royal pelargonium must contain a sufficient amount of useful elements (phosphorus, manganese and potassium). But if there is too much nitrogen in the ground, then the plant will quickly gain greenery, but in this case there will be no flowering.
Royal geraniums do not grow and bloom well in large containers, since this does not promote budding, but leads to the growth of greenery. Wide pots are not suitable at all.
Royal geranium: care
Having such a whimsical queen on your windowsill, the first thing you need to do is provide her with normal conditions existence. The following rules will tell you how to care for royal geraniums correctly:
- replant the plant every two or three years (depending on the variety);
- provide an optimal temperature range: from 8 to 15 degrees Celsius;
- adhere to moderate watering and air humidity;
- arrange additional lighting when necessary;
- It is contraindicated to place a pot of royal pelargonium in a hot place;
- in pots (it is recommended to use ceramic containers), it is necessary to make a drainage hole;
- protect the plant from wind and rain;
- timely application of fertilizers with useful minerals.
Also, to ensure normal growth and active flowering of royal geranium, so-called rejuvenation should be carried out: cutting off the tops (up to 2 cm). Only a systematic approach to caring for royal pelargonium contributes to the normal development of the flower.
