Condensation in the chimney pipe - causes and ways to eliminate the problem. Getting rid of condensation on cold water pipes Which pipes do not condense from cold water

Drops of water in the apartment appearing on building structures: windows, pipes, ventilation elements - a fairly common phenomenon.

They disturb the interior of the premises, and dampness causes the formation of mold and harmful fungi.

Excessive moisture inside the home brings a lot of troubles; it can be dealt with using effective measures.

Article material provides advice home handyman on maintaining a normal microclimate in the apartment, explains in accessible technical language how to get rid of condensation on pipes. The text is supplemented with explanatory pictures, diagrams and a video throughout the presentation.

Condensation and apartment microclimate

There are always vapors of liquids inside the air, the maximum proportion of which is water. Our eye does not perceive them under normal conditions: we perfectly see distant objects on the street through the surrounding atmosphere.

When they say that water, for example, has boiled inside a kettle and clouds of steam are coming out of it, then in fact it is the smallest droplets of moisture that have not had time to dissolve in the air that are being carried away. The same phenomenon is observed in a steam room, boiler room or sometimes on the shore of a reservoir on a cool morning.

Condensate is a product formed when a substance passes from a gaseous form to a liquid phase.

Its appearance is associated with physical processes occurring in the air. They should be well represented. Only then will a normal microclimate be ensured living rooms.

Reasons for appearance

Since water vapor is always part of the air, it is important to take into account their concentration. This will allow you to effectively take measures to prevent the formation of condensation indoors and create a healthy microclimate.

The degree of vapor saturation of the air in an apartment is characterized by three humidity criteria:

absolute or current, which determines the total weight of steam in grams contained in one cubic meter of air (g/m3);
maximum, indicating the highest possible vapor content in a cubic meter of air at a specific temperature (g/m 3);
relative, expressing the percentage of vapor at the considered point in time in relation to the maximum value.

If issues with current humidity usually do not arise, then we will analyze the other two microclimate criteria in a little more detail.

It is closely related to the ambient temperature.

As the air heats up, its ability to absorb more and more vapors appears, and as it cools, it begins to release them. Maximum humidity indicates large quantity vapors that can be contained in the air at a particular temperature.

Naturally, all these processes are considered under normal conditions. atmospheric pressure, changing which will make certain amendments to the microclimate.

Relative humidity

It characterizes the ability of air at the current temperature and pressure of the environment to contain vapors or release them as condensate. Its value is calculated by dividing the absolute humidity by the maximum and then expressing this fraction as a percentage.

About dew point

Let's consider a simple example, when at a temperature of +20 degrees inside the room there are 9.4 grams of vapor per cubic meter of air.

On the graph, this state is indicated by point A. It is located in the zone of absolute humidity. We begin to cool the room, bringing the temperature inside it to +10 O, which corresponds to point B on the graph.

Throughout this entire period of time, moisture vapor weighing 9.4 g is in the air and is not released, absolute humidity does not change, and relative humidity constantly increases, approaching from a value of 9.4/17.3∙100%=54.3% to 100% at point B.

The point of intersection of the decrease in air temperature with the line of maximum humidity is usually called the dew point. It is used in the calculation of ventilation and heating systems to ensure normal human living conditions.

The owner of the Stubborn video “Dampness and mold on the walls of the room” talks about how the dew point affects the microclimate during the operation of the apartment, preventing condensation.

Knowledge of the conditions of vapor distribution in the air allows you to reduce or completely eliminate condensation indoors.

Sources of high humidity

Water evaporates during various activities person:

using a shower or bath;
cooking;
washing clothes;
wet cleaning of the apartment;
many other actions.

Moisture evaporation can reach different meanings. You can focus on the following average data, expressed in grams per hour:

human breathing - 40÷90;
washing - 300;
indoor plant - 10;
shower - 2600;
open water surface - 200;
wet cleaning -1000.

These approximate data strongly depend on the air temperature in the room; it is very difficult to take them into account accurately. One degree of heating or cooling changes the relative humidity by about five percent. Therefore, by analyzing the loss of moisture vapor into condensate, conditions are created that provide a reserve of measures to prevent it.

How to maintain a room's microclimate

Properly designed systems help create normal living conditions:

heating;
ventilation;
removal of steam from building structures through
blocking moisture from entering the premises
insulation of cold sources and bridges.

When used correctly, they provide

Space heating

Heating the air leads to a decrease in relative humidity while maintaining constant absolute humidity, when an increasing amount of vapor can be absorbed by it. This prevents condensation on cold pipes e or any other places in the apartment.

An open fire in the stove provides ventilation to the rooms.

Insufficient room temperature, in turn, creates the opposite effect when condensation is released from the air, excessive humidity and dampness are formed, which contributes to the development of rot, mold, and fungi.

Ventilation and microclimate

Even a regular ventilation system can reduce the humidity in the apartment for the reason that the colder composition from the street has a lower vapor concentration than indoors. Dampness escapes into the atmosphere through an open window, and drier air replaces the humid air that escapes.

A constantly running ventilation system removes excess moisture from living rooms and prevents condensation from forming on pipes, windows and other cooler places.

Fan devices operating in air supply or exhaust mode can improve the natural ventilation of an apartment.

Eliminating cold sources

Condensation on a pipe can appear for several additional reasons. The main one is that water and other pipelines are located in the ground throughout their entire length. Due to this, they, containing large containers of liquid, have a fairly low temperature.

As water flows through pipes located in basements and other building structures, the temperature rises slightly, but not always well enough. This issue can be improved with several technical techniques.

Water leaks

Constant circulation of liquid in pipes through loosely closed or faulty taps cools metal structure. Timely repairs leaking faucets, toilet shut-off valves, elements hydraulic system other plumbing equipment can disrupt the established cooling process and prevent condensation from forming.

You should understand that a neighbor's water leak can reduce the temperature of the pipe running inside your premises. Sometimes such a defect can be detected by ear at night, when no one is using the water supply.

Insulation of highways

The heat-insulating layer located between the metal of the cold pipe and the warm air of the apartment prevents their contact and condensation.

Painting with special paints

This is the simplest method, which in some cases allows to reduce the transfer of cold from the pipe to the surrounding air. The paint layer must have good heat-shielding properties. To do this, it is applied several times to dry metal.

Manufacturers produce special grades of liquid heat for these purposes. insulating materials liquid fraction, for example, “Armor” paint.

Insulation materials

Special porous mats wrapped around the pipe can prevent condensation from forming on it.

Such materials are produced various shapes and thickness. You can get by with a simple corrugation. The pipe fits freely into it, and the remaining space is completely filled with polyurethane foam. The latter hardens and serves as an excellent heat insulator.

Only a comprehensive solution of measures to properly maintain the microclimate can completely eliminate the appearance of condensation in an apartment. Using only one of the methods described, e.g. high-quality ventilation may not fully achieve this technical task.

Simply insulating the ceiling under a cold roof is not enough; it also needs to be protected from precipitating air vapor - condensation. IN atmospheric air, as we know from school curriculum, contains more than 50% moisture. Usually it is a gas - invisible and undetectable. Physicists call it steam. The steam condenses and turns into water droplets - fog, rain. Moisture is an excellent conductor of heat. Dew by more than half impairs the performance properties of ceiling insulation. Therefore, one of the main questions that arises when building verandas is: how to insulate the ceiling in a private house so that condensation does not form.

We insulate the ceiling under a cold roof correctly

There is always condensation - it forms at the border of warm and colder air layers. Condensation is tricky - under certain conditions it immediately evaporates. It is difficult to predict in advance when it will appear. An example is the situation - two glasses on the tablecloth. One was taken from the closet, the other was taken out of the refrigerator. The first glass is always dry. The second one is immediately covered with sweat - condensation. Please note: the greater the temperature difference between the glass and the room, the wetter the glass surface. If you gape a little, the water will flow down – right onto the tablecloth.

Water vapor precipitates when the right conditions arise, such as a drop in temperature. The thermal limit or, scientifically, the dew point, depends on the humidity of the air. The ratios of air humidity parameters and temperatures at which condensation forms are given in the table.

Use the table like this. The ambient temperature, for example, is 12o, and the humidity is 70%. This means that condensation forms on objects heated to 6.7o. When the temperature rises to 23°, dew will fall on surfaces heated to 14.8°.

The same thing happens with the surface of the ceiling. When we open the country door on an autumn day at 12°C, all surfaces in the rooms are dry. If we decide to heat the house, we will soon see: at some point on metal and glass objects that have not had time to warm up, dew falls. As the air heats up, other colder objects begin to fog up. Drops appear on door handles and window glass. They are not visible on the ceiling. However, rest assured: floors are also covered with condensation.

As the temperature in the house rises, the humidity load on the floors will increase - heated air from throughout the room will rush upward, and vapors will settle on the ceiling. If the surface is painted oil paint, drops will hang on it - this effect can be seen in a heated bathhouse or laundry room. Vapor-permeable, loose materials will simply become saturated with moisture.

Thus, when the heaters are turned on in the house and the stove is lit, the ceiling insulation is exposed to double moisture:

first, until the mineral wool has heated up to the dew point, condensation from the air contained in it settles on its fibers;
As it gets warmer, the porous material acts as a filter - it absorbs rising moisture from around the house.

Over time, the house will warm up, the temperatures of all physical bodies will equalize. Then the condensate may evaporate, but this will only happen under certain conditions - if air exchange is provided.

Moisture accumulated on wood facing surfaces and inside the insulation, can be removed in two ways:

allow it to flow freely onto the underlying planes;
create conditions for the evaporation of excess water

Inside the ceiling sandwich you need to create space for air circulation. Otherwise, the water accumulated in the insulation will flow onto the finishing surface - onto plastic, drywall or lining, and will stagnate and bloom.

Once your entire home is at the same temperature, there may still be condensation spots. This is poor insulation and metal - conductors of heat from the room. Cold bridges increase heat loss by 10–20%. Over time, wet spots that do not dry out form around them - a source of mold.

Insulating the house from the inside: installing thermal insulation for the ceiling without condensation

The purpose of constructing a ceiling is to create an insulating pie that would be maximally protected from the effects of condensation moisture. In order for the ceiling to always remain dry, when installing insulation, it is necessary to solve the triune technical problem of protection ceilings and removal of humid air:

Protect the insulation from saturation with vapors from below. For this purpose, vapor-proof films are usually used.
Provide mechanisms for extracting condensate formed in the insulating layer itself. This goal is achieved by arranging ventilated gaps between the insulation and the overlying floor boards or sheathing.
Provide a way to drain water from the lower surface of the vapor barrier film - so that drops from the film do not flow down, but dry out. This problem is also solved using an air gap.

There are two most important technological measures to get rid of moisture in the ceiling of a private house:

Minimization of condensation due to uniform heating of the entire ceiling surface. This measure is aimed at creating the most homogeneous interfloor pie: it helps to overcome two dangers.

The first danger is wide gaps in thermal insulation and vapor barriers. Occurs between panels of insulation, between panels, in the corners of rooms;

The second danger is cold bridges - places where frosty air penetrates most intensively into the room. Conductors are metal dowels, anchors and other heat-conducting objects driven into slabs or beams.

Steps for insulating the ceiling of a house to eliminate condensation:

The vapor barrier is laid at the bottom of the insulation with an overlap. The joints of the sheets are tightly sealed with tape.
insulation is laid in sufficient quantity - thickness (as regulated).
eliminate “cold bridges”: additionally insulate areas with increased thermal conductivity, get rid of metal or cover it in plastic.
create conditions for intensive removal of condensate in the upper part of the insulation.

2. Ensuring normal gas exchange between the layers of the ceiling sandwich. For this:

sure to suit ventilation gap above the ceilings - between the insulation and the cladding;
make the same gap below the vapor barrier layer - create a hood above the facing plasterboard to ventilate excess moisture from the surface of the film.

Scheme of ceiling insulation cake

The most complete ceiling pie diagram may look like this (order from bottom to top):

Facing fabric – plasterboard, plywood, OSB.
Lattice frame for ceiling panels (the cavity between the slats serves as a vent).
Vapor-tight membrane.
The first layer of insulation is mineral wool with a load-bearing counter-lattice or glued polystyrene foam.
The second layer of insulation is shifted to half a sheet - mineral wool or polystyrene foam, laid between the beams (rafters).
Windproof, vapor-permeable layer.
Counter-lattice - slats along the rafters.
Boards - attic subfloor or subroofing.

It should be noted: the above diagram reflects technological features the northernmost and wettest regions. In more favorable climatic conditions, many items may be unnecessary. For example, the gap between the vapor barrier and the seal can be eliminated in dry climates. When warming up a private house located in the steppe, it is enough to lay a thicker layer of insulation to level out the large temperature difference.

Verandas without condensation - insulated from the inside

The peculiarities of heat exchange between denser and looser materials are such that it is better to lay the insulation outside. Fur coats are made approximately according to this principle: the pile directed outward gets wet less. However, in order to build on top of the ceiling, you will have to remove the roof, and this is an unsustainable undertaking. It is better to insulate the veranda from the inside.

Sequence of operations:

1. We take it for granted that the roof of the veranda is already insulated from water - in this case we omit the installation of waterproofing.

2. Sew the slats in the direction - from the elevation to the edge. The interval between the bars depends on the type of insulation used:

if we cover the ceiling with foam plastic, we select the distance between the ribs to match the size of the slabs;
if we insulate with mineral wool, make the size of the sheathing smaller than the width of the insulation by 1–2 cm - we ensure a tight installation.

3. Hem the insulation.

4. In cold climates, we make another sheathing - shifted by half a period. We lay the second layer of heat insulation.

5. We staple the vapor-permeable membrane.

6. We hang a decorative ceiling.

In the case when we use foam plastic for thermal insulation, there is no need to do lathing. Rigid sheets are attached using self-tapping screws directly to the sheathing. The second layer is screwed with longer screws or glued to the first. Ease of installation is just one of the advantages of gas-filled materials. There are others.

Ceiling in a private house: choosing insulation for rooms, verandas, extensions

The market today offers two classes of insulation: mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

The first category includes many fibrous mats obtained from molten slags, rocks, and glass.
The second group includes polymer panels obtained by foaming and gas filling.
Among them there are heat insulators invented by folk architects. The most popular and most time-tested is sawdust.

Both types of insulation have common advantages:

they are easy to install - you can do the work yourself;
low cost - due to the budget price, fibrous and gas-filled materials are used in construction as insulation.

There are also known disadvantages of each material:

polystyrene foam is fusible, flammable, and toxic when heated strongly;
Mineral wool is hygroscopic, the insulation can completely lose its user properties in water.

We insulate ceilings under a cold roof: universal material mineral wool

Minvata – stone insulation has its own advantages. Among them:

fire-heat resistance,
plasticity - with the help of flexible mats you can cover curved surfaces;
biological stability;
vapor permeability – for insulating the ceiling in wooden house– unique quality.

Stone wool is favored by the fact that it easily restores its thermal insulation characteristics - you just need to dry it. Mineral wool successfully used for external insulation of facades and ceilings. It’s hard to imagine a more humid environment, but cotton wool copes. Both facades and ceilings are made according to special technology- they are equipped with vents to remove moisture outside the insulating pie.

Ventilation gaps are arranged in the direction from bottom to top. The channels perform two functions: they serve for drainage of dew and for ventilation. In such conditions, the cotton wool is protected from condensation, so it lasts forever.

Traditional insulation for the ceiling - sawdust

In some cases, carpenter's and joiner's waste is superior in its user characteristics to standardized, new-fangled insulation materials.

Sawdust can take on any configuration: this property makes it indispensable for insulating ceilings in the attic and on the veranda in the extension.
A mixture of sawdust and clay can be tightly coated with narrow and low unused under-roof niches - under the ridges, above the verandas.
The unique advantage of sawdust is its environmental friendliness. The material is non-toxic, harmless to children and allergy sufferers.
Sawdust insulation is cheaper.

Wood-cement-lime or wood-clay composites are prepared on the basis of shavings and tyrsa. Added to the composition as an antiseptic copper sulfate. You can use the old recipe and sprinkle the insulation with wood ash after installation.

Preparation:

Prepare the dry mixture - carefully shovel the ingredients.
Add water. Mix with a mixer.

Coniferous sawdust – 10 volume parts;
Slaked lime, clay or cement – 1 part by volume;
Water – within 1 part by volume.

Use the suspension to coat the top of the ceiling. Work order:

The beams are fastened between a twenty board and an interval of 1–1.5 m.
A vapor-waterproofing film - polyethylene, roofing felt - is laid on the subfloor. The edges of the film should be equal to or slightly exceed the height of the beams.
Lay out the particle board composite in an even 10-centimeter layer and smooth it.
Sprinkle ash on top or leave the surface open.
After drying - after 1.5 months, the operation is repeated or the finished insulation is covered with a vapor-proof film.

Warm ceiling: working with foam plastic

Polystyrene foam is preferred in the following cases:

When the thickness of the insulation plays a significant role. Polystyrene foam is more effective, this property is characterized by the following fact: the walls of the first refrigerators - round and voluminous - were filled with mineral wool. Newer units - tall and thin-walled - are assembled on a foam base.
Wet resistance. Polystyrene foam is used to insulate “wet” basement floors and attics.
Light weight, rigid shape, machinability.

This material is actively used for cladding the external surfaces of buildings due to its low thermal conductivity. Experienced builders do not recommend insulating ceilings in damp basements and basements with foam plastic. basements. The reason for skepticism is the same - excellent thermal protection. However, in the latter case, such a useful quality is considered a disadvantage: moisture will condense on the foam.

We insulate the ceiling in a private house with our own hands: penoplex - quickly and reliably:

A relative of foam plastic is a porous, but harder material. The structure of penoplex is not ball-shaped, but perforated. The leaf does not consist of interlocking round granules. This is a homogeneous foamed mass similar to pumice. The internal capsules are completely isolated from each other - the material completely retains water.

Extruded polystyrene is excellent for insulation window slopes and ceilings. Due to its rigid structure and low thermal conductivity, penoplex allows you to save space: sheets are more thin section retain the same amount of heat as thicker foam ones.

The end of each slab is selected by a quarter: the slabs are easy to join, there are no through gaps between them, and the surface is perfectly flat. Penplex panels are fixed to the ceiling using adhesive foam. All work is easy to do with your own hands. For greater strength, the connection can be planted on fungi, but, according to experts, this is an unnecessary measure: penoplex planted on foam will disappear the same time it falls out interior doors– in 75–100 years.

Penoplex is excellent for insulating ceilings in rooms with high humidity: it simultaneously performs the functions of thermal insulation, vapor barrier and finishing. A ceiling made of penoplex will allow you to save on plasterboard: a smooth, hard surface after putty acquires sufficient hardness and strength. For a private home, penoplex is an ideal material for insulation and ground floor, and an attic under a cold roof.

Instead of a total

Ways to insulate ceilings in a dacha so that there is no condensation in the house are quite simple and reliable. All options come down to only three measures - reliable installation of thermal insulation without gaps and cracks, protecting the insulation from getting wet and creating ventilation channels to effectively remove moisture from hidden cavities.

Video: Ceiling without vapor barrier!? What you can and cannot do

Droplets of condensation on cold water pipes are a common occurrence, especially in summer when the air heats up to high temperatures. Drops collect in streams and often form puddles on the floor near the water supply pipe.

How to get rid of condensation, prevent pipeline corrosion, and eliminate fungus caused by moisture?

Reasons for the formation of condensation on pipes

When renovating a room, especially with constant high humidity, it is worth taking care of communications in advance. Condensation on pipes, both metal and plastic, can occur for the following reasons:

Leaking plumbing as a result of improper installation, or due to wear and tear.
Poor ventilation, improperly organized humid air extraction system. Blockages ventilation system will lead to excess moisture on the surfaces of the room.

Leaks in the water supply system, neighbors' toilet tanks.
A sharp change in temperature in a room where condensation collects. The situation is especially deplorable in the summer, when water literally flows along the surface of the pipeline.
Distribution configurations for cold and hot water supply. If they are not thermally insulated and are located close to each other, the formation of condensation is inevitable (this is why insulation for pipes is so important).

How to get rid of condensation?

If moisture accumulates on the riser, it is possible that your neighbors' toilet tank, faucet, or other plumbing fixtures are leaking. This can be checked at night, when the characteristic sounds of flowing water are heard in the silence. A problem with ventilation is observed when windows are locked, especially those equipped with metal-plastic bags. It's easy to check the system's operation.

It is enough to take a sheet of paper, apply it to the hood, blocking the windows, then do the same with the doors open. If there is no ventilation - visual effect obvious.

If moisture concentrates on the apartment's distribution pipes, the reasons may be the following. Faulty plumbing fixtures directly in the apartment may be to blame. The second reason is poor air circulation, especially in rooms with constant high humidity.

If the cold water supply pipe leading to the plumbing gets wet, the fault is the faucet, shower mixer, or the inlet valve of the toilet tank. When the riser constantly gets wet, you need to look for the problem of water pipes from the neighbors above. If the ventilation is clogged, it is worth checking the air circulation in it.

How to eliminate condensation?

There are several ways to get rid of the problem:

Check the hood, remove debris and cobwebs, then buy a compact fan and install it instead of the ventilation grille. Manufacturers offer a wide range of similar devices, varying in price and power.
Insulate the water supply system with special insulating tubes with a cut, which are available in construction supermarkets. They are made from energyflex, polyethylene foam, the ends are secured with permanent metallized tape. This method is the simplest and fastest, but the pipeline must be thoroughly dried before insulating.
The following method will provide complete isolation. First, the pipe is sanded, then the surface is wiped with acetone, then with a rust converter. After drying the pipeline, it is covered with epoxy putty and quickly wrapped with strips of fabric in 2-3 layers, the edges of the fabric are fixed with a clamp and wire. Then epoxy putty is applied again, after drying, the surface is sanded and coated with paint.

Caustic soda for drain cleaning - pros and cons.

How to install a vent pipe in a private house?

How to disassemble a two-valve mixer?

Methods for protecting metal pipelines

If condensation on metal cold water supply pipes is not eliminated, corrosion will eventually cover them. What can you do in this case:

First, the surface of the pipes is cleaned of rust, then dried, covered with drying oil and oil paint.
You can use carbolate, a pasty mass, to seal cracks in floors and walls. The composition is applied to the surface in a 5-mm layer, left to harden for 24 hours. After this, it is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper and painted with oil paint.
You can use protective primers consisting of zinc dust diluted with drying oil and epoxy varnishes. They cover the surface of the pipe, then paint it with paints and enamels.
The pipeline in the toilet can be coated with a composition based on drying oil, red lead in a ratio of 20:80 or primer compositions such as GF-031, FL-03K, FL-053, GF-021.

If we're talking about About the bathroom, here oil-resistant enamels are used to paint hot pipelines and heated towel rails; for cold ones, any enamels or paints are used.

How else can you deal with condensation?

The following way to fix the problem is good. It is necessary to put a corrugation on the pipeline with a diameter larger than that of the pipe, then fill the cavity between the surfaces with polyurethane foam. If puddles form on the floor where condensate accumulates, a sleeve made of pipes several diameters larger than the wiring itself will help get rid of them. The system is simple, and it will not interfere with repairs or replacement of the pipeline in the future.

Moisture absorbers sold in supermarkets household appliances – great way deal with the problem. They are a plastic box with an absorbent tablet placed inside. The absorber will not only get rid of condensation on the pipe, but will also eliminate moisture in the entire room.

A more expensive option is to install an air conditioner with climate control, which will ensure optimal level humidity.

It is advisable to waterproof the floor of a bathtub or toilet, which will help cope with the problem of condensation on pipes and surfaces. If this method of repair is not feasible, you should open the windows and the bathroom doors wide open after taking a hot shower or bath. The circulation of cool air will quickly eliminate accumulated condensation and help effectively deal with moisture on the pipes.

Based on practical experience in dealing with condensate on pipes, experts advise the following:

Yuri Rogov, a plumber, recommends buying “Gofroterm”, a special composition sold in specialized stores. It is applied to the surface of the pipe, after which a strong elastic film is formed on it, preventing the formation of moisture.
Andrey Kazantsev, production site foreman, advises purchasing liquid thermal insulation, which is applied like paint to the dried, cleaned surface of the pipeline. According to him, this method is better than thermoflex and other insulating materials.
If ventilation, plumbing, and water supply are working properly, the cause of condensation accumulation may be the temperature difference between the pipe and the air. Mechanic Nikolai Korotkov advises insulation in this case. To do this, you will need long, hollow inside polyethylene foam covers, or Merylon, which are sold in hardware stores. They are put on the pipeline and secured at the bottom with wire and a clamp.

You can get rid of fogging in the cold water supply pipeline different ways. Which one to choose should be determined after analyzing the situation.

If you have the tools and experience, you can do plumbing work yourself, or alternatively, turn to specialists for help. Read also the material about the water comb, the distribution manifold and you will be interested in the material about caring for an acrylic bathtub at home.

postwater.ru

Reasons for the formation of water droplets on cold water pipes

Most often, drops of cold water appear on pipes in the toilet and bathroom. The main reasons for the appearance of condensation on pipes are:

malfunction of the drain tank - cold water flows in a continuous stream, not having time to warm up to room temperature– conditions are created high humidity, which provoke the formation of condensation;
insufficient ventilation of the room - this theory is easy to test - you should not close the door during the night, if in the morning there is no condensation on the pipes, then the cause of the problem is a malfunction of the ventilation pipeline or insufficient ventilation of the room;

if fogging is observed only on the riser pipe in the toilet or bathroom, then the formation of condensation is more likely due to faulty plumbing in neighboring apartments;
a faulty mixer can also cause droplets to accumulate on the surface of the pipeline;
the proximity of pipes causes a temperature difference, which results in the formation of dew.

Condensation can form on the surface of pipes made of any material, no matter whether it is metal or a polymer composite.

Sources of excess moisture

Wet pipelines may be the result of third-party causes not related to the operation of plumbing. Excess moisture is collected indoors as a result of human activity, including such areas as:

cooking food;
washing and drying everyday items, bed linen;
morning and evening water treatments - shower, bath.

Important to remember! Moisture condensation is also caused by breaks in the home’s water supply system, including flooding of basements.

Other reasons are:

violations when laying waterproofing of the building foundation;
absence or poor-quality insulation of wall blocks;
the presence near large open bodies of water that provoke high humidity environment;
a large number of unfavorable meteorological conditions: rain, snow, floods, humid climate.

How to get rid of condensation on cold water pipes

The most reliable way to combat condensation on cold water supply pipes is to insulate the pipes. Insulation helps prevent moisture condensation on the surface of the pipe. The riser can be thermally insulated using thermal insulation materials that act as insulation. This insulation method ensures that the issue of wet pipes is eliminated.

It is important to note! If it is determined that moisture accumulation is due to improper operation of the mixer, then eliminating the malfunction of the system, which consists of replacing the gaskets or the mixer itself, will correct the situation.

In case of pipe leakage, the damaged section of the pipe surface is replaced by the housing and communal services service. If for some reason the replacement is not made, a plug installed in the wet area will help eliminate the problem for a while.

Ventilation problems can be eliminated using one of two methods:

the ventilation grille and shaft duct are cleaned; you can carry out the procedure yourself or call housing and communal services employees;
if there is clean vent and low draft, an exhaust fan is installed instead of the grille, which turns on as needed.

It is important to know! The listed measures help combat the formation of condensation, but they do not completely guarantee the absence of moisture accumulation. There also remains the issue of close proximity of hot and cold pipes, which is solved with the help of thermal insulation.

Chemical insulation of cold water pipes from condensate

You can get rid of wet pipelines yourself or by contacting a plumbing company. For those who want to save their family budget, they should consider the first option, especially since the work of waterproofing an apartment water supply is simple and requires small cash investments and some time to apply heat-insulating material. Why pay more when you can keep costs to a minimum.

Liquid heat-insulating paint successfully eliminates the problem of excess moisture. The most popular chemical compositions are:

thermometr;
astratech;
corundum.

Before painting, you should prepare the work area. The procedure should be as follows:

the pipe surface is cleaned - the plastic is washed; metal pipes are cleaned of rust and surface contaminants;
A layer of primer is applied to the entire surface of the water pipeline. It is necessary to ensure the affinity of the heat-insulating mixture with the pipeline material. It is imperative to wait until the soil layer has completely dried.
On top of the primer, the pipe is coated with a chemical protective mixture, which is applied in up to 5 layers. Each layer must dry well, only then can the next one be applied.

Thermal insulating liquid mixtures allow you to get rid of the formation of condensation, and their use also has a positive effect on the service life of the apartment water supply.

Physical pipe insulation

Excess moisture can also be eliminated using special insulating materials, the range of which is presented:

polystyrene foam;
basalt;
foamed polyethylene;
mineral wool.

The insulating material is manufactured in the form of rolls, which are installed around the pipe to be insulated. The roll has three components:

the insulation itself;
protective layer;
adhesive base is not a mandatory component; it may be absent on some products.

Installing insulation yourself is not difficult. When choosing a roll, keep in mind that its diameter must be comparable to the diameter of the pipeline, otherwise the insulation will not fit tightly to the pipe and moisture will accumulate under it. The procedure for the physical thermal insulation process is as follows:

cleaning the pipe surface from dirt and rust;
removing the protective film from the adhesive base of the roll or applying glue for insulating material to the pipe;
installing a roll around the pipeline - the first should be pressed firmly against the last, this will ensure high-quality adhesion of the surfaces;
sealing the longitudinal hole of the roll.

Insulation with improvised means

Homeowners often get rid of the problem of condensation using products that can be purchased inexpensively at any hardware store:

sandpaper;
thick strong threads;
anti-corrosion agent;
putty based on epoxy resin;
acetone.

You will also need fabric cut into long strips five centimeters wide.

Before work, the surface should be cleaned with sanding paper, then the area of work is degreased with acetone and treated with an anti-corrosion agent. You should wait until the coating dries completely. Typically the waiting time is one hour. Further actions require quick work, best if it is performed by two people.

It is important to know! The dry, prepared water pipeline is covered with putty based on epoxy resin, then strips of fabric are tightly wound over the layer of putty that has not yet polymerized, and the last turns are additionally fixed with a piece of twine.

The puttying and wrapping procedure should be repeated three times, after which epoxy is applied again over the last layer. For a cosmetic effect, after the epoxy layer has hardened, the treated water pipeline should be sanded and painted.

Thermal insulation paint

A similar product can be used if metal pipe networks are installed in the apartment. Thermal insulation paint is an innovative liquid thermal insulation material, which is a paste of thick consistency.
In essence, the polymerized layer of paint is a kind of thermos, eliminating the impact of external factors on the protected object.

Conclusion

Despite its apparent harmlessness, condensation contributes to the formation of rust and fungal colonies, which negatively affect human health. Therefore, when ascertaining the fact of a wet riser or wiring, care should be taken to eliminate it. However, before taking military action, it is necessary to establish why the problem arose. Also for effective solution you need to know how to eliminate condensation on a cold water pipe.

okommunalke.ru

Causes of condensation

Residents of apartment buildings often encounter such a phenomenon as a “sweating pipe” with cold water. The reasons for this may vary. The nature of the appearance of water droplets on the pipes in the bathroom and in the toilet is slightly different. In a combined bathroom, the main reasons are:

insufficient ventilation of the room;
continuous supply of toilet cistern;
malfunction of the mixer (the valve that shuts off the cold water is leaking);
large difference in temperature between water and ambient air in the room;
increased humidity or leakage from neighbors above.

The bathroom should be well ventilated, air circulation allows you to remove unwanted moisture. During continuous operation of the tank filling system, moisture condenses not only on the riser, but also on the wiring. A faucet that drips all the time causes a similar problem.

Each of the reasons can independently cause “fogging” of the riser or cold water distribution pipes, but, as a rule, the cause is precisely a combination of several points.

Advice! If the pipes began to humidify suddenly, remember what changes you have made in your apartment recently. The reason may be changing windows or installing any other equipment that increases the temperature of the room.

What are the dangers of a “sweating” pipe?

The condensation that appears on the pipes is not just droplets of water. First of all, it is an aggressive environment for metal pipelines. In conditions of high humidity, the material corrodes and quickly fails.

In conditions of continuous humidification, a damp smell appears in the room. In addition, in places of high humidity, excellent conditions are created for the development of various bacteria, including mold and all kinds of fungi. Constant human contact with this kind of “neighbors” is extremely undesirable and can cause disruptions in the functioning of the body.

If the appearance of condensation or its abundance is not detected in a timely manner, puddles may form on the floor. If they are not eliminated in time, then the time for repair work on replacement can be brought closer. flooring In bathroom.

What to do if you notice fogging on pipes

If you notice in the bathroom that the riser or other pipes related to the cold water supply are covered with small drops of water, then you should take a number of actions to find out the reason. Our algorithm will help you:

First you have to look ventilation grille and check the entire system for functionality. To do this, you need to bring a sheet of paper to the grille and slightly open the window. If the paper sticks to the hole, then the ventilation is working correctly, otherwise it is necessary to identify the causes of the malfunction in the operation of the entire exhaust system. If the bathroom is equipped with forced electric fan, you need to launch it and observe the pipe. If the drops remain and do not dry, then the reason is different.
Next we head to the shut-off valves, faucets and tank drain system. Failures in the operation of these segments can be seen with the naked eye. Sometimes the solution to the problem is to fix the leak. It is necessary to repair or replace the faucets and adjust the float in the toilet tank so that water does not flow away on its own.
The problem may not be in your apartment, but in the riser above. Here you will have to go through the neighbors and check for leaks in the central cold water supply pipe.

Installing new windows or additional heating systems will certainly affect the temperature in the room. If the temperature difference between the water in the pipe and the air in the room is more than 17°C, then condensation will certainly appear.

We get rid of the problem with the help of special devices

If the cause of the “sweating” pipes has been determined to be a temperature difference, then the first need will be to insulate the cold water riser. A variety of materials can serve as insulation; they all differ from each other in price, appearance and degree of insulation.

The simplest option is purchasing foam pads thermal insulation material . They look like soft pipes with a cut along. The insulation is put on the pipe like a cover and glued together. It is very important not to make a mistake with the size. If you purchase an overlay with a larger diameter, there will be no effect, just like with a smaller size (you cannot glue this one).

More expensive, but very effective method– application of heat-insulating paint. To insulate a cold water riser, it is necessary to apply 4-6 layers of the substance, allowing each layer to dry completely. When working with paint, it is important to ensure forced ventilation of the room. To do this, you can use a regular fan.

For greater effect, you can combine the two previous methods. Make sure the coating is completely dry before placing the insulation cover over the painted pipe. It is also possible to apply a layer of paint on top of the heat-insulating nozzle, but only after it is well secured.

Another means of insulation is a plastic pipe bigger size, put on the main one. The resulting air space is filled with polyurethane foam.

Important! When carrying out any work on pipe insulation, it is necessary to completely dry it in advance from any drops that have formed.

Each of these methods is very effective, but if you did not count on the purchase of expensive coatings, you are better off using the old proven method - creating thermal insulation yourself.

Creating thermal insulation with your own hands

Making insulation for a cold water riser yourself is not that difficult. For this we need:

sandpaper;
rust converter (eg phosphoric acid);

strong thread;
cotton fabric (you can use old things);
epoxy putty;
putty knife.

An old sheet or duvet cover works well as insulation. You can use various bandages and other materials. Large and wide canvases are best cut into strips up to 10 cm wide and rolled into rolls.

Next, you need to clean the pipe itself and degrease the surface. A regular acetone-based nail polish remover will do the job. The next step is to treat the riser with a rust converting agent.

After careful preparation, insulation can begin. Apply a layer of putty and, without waiting for it to dry, wrap the pipe tightly with a cloth from bottom to top. Wind the fabric so that each turn overlaps the previous one and is saturated with putty. Finally, secure the bandage tightly with thread.

Once dry, apply several more layers of insulation. The final step will be to coat the pipe with putty. Once the homemade casing is completely dry and hardened, it can be sanded and painted to match the wall.

Don't leave the problem of high humidity unattended. Not only the appearance of your bathroom, but also the integrity of the cold water supply pipes depends on this.

How to get rid of condensation in the bathroom: video

sandizain.ru

The appearance of condensation on the pipes in the toilet

The cause of moisture condensation can be either a high vapor content in the air or a temperature difference. If condensation settles on the pipes in the toilet, you should first check the ventilation - the easiest way is to leave the door to the toilet open at night. If the pipes are dry in the morning, it means there is insufficient ventilation.

Another common reason may be a constant leak in the tank, in which the water does not have time to heat up in the pipe, being replaced by constantly cold water, which cools it even more. sewer pipe, as a result of which condensation appears on the pipes in the toilet. In this case, it is necessary to check and repair the taps and the inlet valve of the drain tank.

The appearance of condensation on the pipes in the bathroom

Before you think about how to get rid of condensation on water pipes in the bathroom, you should find out the reason using the following method:

If the riser pipe gets wet, the problem is with the neighbors above;
Wetness of the pipe leading to the plumbing fixture indicates a malfunction of the faucet;
If the check showed insufficient ventilation– remove blockages formed in the intake hole, etc.

How to remove condensation from pipes

When talking about how to get rid of condensation on pipes, we should talk separately about thermal insulation - a layer thermal insulation material is able to reliably rid heating and water supply pipes of condensate.

If you don’t have such material at hand, you can use polyurethane foam:

The corrugation, the diameter of which is slightly larger than the diameter of the problem pipe, is cut into convenient pieces so that their length allows them to be put on the pipes;
Place the cut pieces on the pipes;
Fill the interpipe space with polyurethane foam.

Self-installation of thermal insulation

Insulation of pipes from condensate can also be done using available materials, which will require:

Sanding paper;
Rust converter (for example, phosphoric acid);
Durable thick thread;
Strips of fabric (width – 5-6 cm);
Epoxy putty;
Acetone;
Putty knife.

The main stages of the process, how to deal with condensation on pipes using homemade thermal insulation:

Sand the pipe, ensuring reliable adhesion to the material;
Moisten a rag with acetone and wipe the pipe, degreasing its surface;
Treat the pipe with phosphoric acid (protection against rust);
After drying, the pipes are covered with epoxy putty, which should look like thick paint and not dripping;
Next, quickly (to prevent the material from hardening), wrap the pipe from bottom to top with a cloth with good tension and tie the last turn with thread;

Important: when wrapping, you should ensure that the turns of fabric overlap each other and that they are impregnated with putty.

After complete polymerization of the first layer of putty, another 2-3 layers of fabric insulation are applied in the same way;
Apply an epoxy layer;
After waiting for it to dry, sand and paint the pipe.

Getting rid of condensation on pipes

The appearance of condensation in the bathroom and toilet is a fairly common problem due to the high humidity in these rooms. In case of poor ventilation of these premises or lack of insulation on the pipes supplying cold water, water may begin to accumulate both on the pipes themselves and, for example, on cistern toilet.

Let's take a closer look at the main ways to remove condensate from pipes:

The first thing you need to do is make sure there is good ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. Poor ventilation not only creates condensation on the pipes, but also creates conditions for the development of mold, which can cause chronic respiratory diseases.
In cases where passive ventilation is not enough, you can install an exhaust fan in place of the ventilation grille, which can operate either in forced mode. manual mode, or in automatic switching mode using a timer or hygrometer (humidity sensor).

If there are sufficiently large differences in air temperature in a given room and cold water in the plumbing system, surfaces that come into contact with cold water (such as the flush tank and pipes) first fog up, then drops of water form on them, which then begin to drip onto the floor.
In this case, it is necessary to perform high-quality insulation from external environment pipes providing cold water supply. To do this, the easiest way is to use special tubes made of heat-insulating porous material (depending on the manufacturer, it is called thermoflex, energy flex, polyethylene foam, etc.).
The produced tubes have several standard sizes, and their internal diameter is exactly equal to the diameter of the water supply pipes. The tube is cut to its full length, placed over the pipe and taped along the seam with special metallized permanent tape.

Most often, the above methods for getting rid of condensation on pipes are sufficient to reduce humidity and, accordingly, eliminate condensation. If these measures do not help and the humidity remains the same, the problem may lie in poor-quality waterproofing of the floor, and sometimes the walls. In this case, small cosmetic improvements will not be enough - the first thing you need to do is find out what is the source of the increase in humidity (basement evaporation, wet foundation, poor-quality thermal insulation of the walls, leading to the formation of condensation and frost on them), and then begin to insulate it.

In addition, the humidity in the apartment may be increased due to external weather conditions, for example, prolonged rains, or terrain features, such as the presence of a large reservoir nearby. In this case, the humidity will be high even with high-quality waterproofing and it is necessary to change the climatic conditions in the apartment: for example, install an air conditioner that has an air dehumidification function, or a tabletop moisture absorber, which is less effective.

That's all I wanted to tell you about why condensation appears on pipes, what its appearance can lead to, and how to eliminate the appearance of condensation and its negative consequences. In any case, the main thing is to take care of proper ventilation of the room and insulation, insulation of pipes, which is useful not only from the point of view of combating condensation

Many people are interested in how to eliminate condensation on a cold water pipe. Because this problem is encountered very often.

At first glance, damp pipes for supplying cold water are a source of dampness in the kitchen or bathroom. This phenomenon can also cause mold to appear.

These factors will shorten the period between system repairs in a wet area. Why condensation occurs and how to counteract it will be discussed further.

Most often, condensation in cold water pipes appears due to insufficient ventilation in the room. It is for these reasons that moisture collects in droplets in a system transporting cold water.

This in in full Moist air helps. For these reasons, before installing cold water pipe products, it is recommended to create a thermal insulation layer that will prevent any temperature changes on the top of the pipe.

More this problem occurs when the cold and hot water pipes are close together.

If there is such a problem in a bathroom or bathroom, it is recommended to check the functioning of the ventilation at the very beginning.

Over a long period of time it could become clogged. Problems in the ventilation network are clearly visible when closed windows if there are plastic windows in the room. This can be checked very easily.

ADVICE! If you take a sheet of paper and apply it to the hood with the plastic windows, and then do the same with open windows, then the difference will be visually noticeable. If there is no ventilation, it will be visible immediately.

And one more feature in the bathroom is the layout of pipes with cold and hot water. They are often carried out in close proximity, without laying thermal insulation.

It is not surprising that in the place where water is supplied to the plumbing, the pipes begin to “cry”. On open wiring it is easier to eliminate condensation.

But, in a situation where the network is hidden in the wall, resolving the issue entails more complex work. This will also include repair activities, because the geometry of the structure will most quickly have to be changed.

When considering the causes of condensation in cold water pipes in a bathroom or bathroom, it should be noted that in general the situation is similar to the one described above, but one “BUT” arises.

In these rooms there are an order of magnitude more pipes, and the space, as a rule, is smaller. And here, even at the installation stage, it is necessary to resolve the issue of thermal insulation of pipes.

How to solve this problem

And she deserves special attention. You can purchase special material that can be easily purchased at any hardware store for little money.

It doesn’t matter if you don’t have this at hand, you can use improvised means. Polyurethane foam and corrugation can save the situation.

The volume of corrugation should slightly exceed the volume of pipe products laid in the network. The process of action itself is simple to the point of banality.

The corrugation is pre-cut into the required pieces, and they are put on the pipes. The empty space is filled with polyurethane foam. At this point the mission is considered completed.

There is another very simple method that will help eliminate the appearance of water droplets on pipes. To work you need to prepare:

sanding paper;
phosphoric acid;
thick thread;
strips of old fabric;
putty knife;
acetone.

Procedure:

Any pieces of unnecessary fabric are cut into strips no more than 7 cm wide, which are rolled up. It is recommended to prepare them in reserve so as not to be distracted while working.
The pipe is plastered, otherwise the material will not adhere firmly to it. Then it is degreased with acetone.
At this stage, a rust converter is applied, and when the pipes are dry, putty is applied to them. This material hardens instantly, for this reason, you will have to act quickly.
The prepared pipes are wrapped with fabric strips, so that each subsequent turn overlaps the previous one. The final coup is tightly tied with a cord.
Thus, the fabric strip insulation is applied in several layers.
The procedure is completed by applying an epoxy layer. When it is completely dry, the pipe products are sanded and paint of the selected shade is applied.

How to get rid of condensation on plastic pipes

A common cause of condensation is leaks in plumbing fixtures. If the workpiece supplying water to sanitary fixtures gets wet, then breakdowns may occur in the tap, in shower mixer, in the inlet valve of the toilet tank. A wet riser may indicate that there are leaks in the neighboring apartments above.

If the pipe network is made of plastic, then the problem of how to eliminate condensation on plastic pipes is solved as follows:

The hoods are checked and the ventilation grille is replaced with a compact fan.
The network is insulated using special pipes with a cut. These products are offered in every hardware store. They are made from energyflex and foamed polyethylene. This is a very simple method, only before starting insulation, you need to thoroughly dry the pipes.
Complete insulation of plastic pipes can be ensured by the use of fabric strips and plastering. Above there is detailed description how it is done.

Features of metal water pipeline

The problem of how to eliminate condensation on metal water pipes is no less acute than in previous situations.

If metal water pipes are constantly exposed to drops of water, they will quickly be damaged by corrosion.

The following actions help eliminate condensation from metal pipes:

The pipes are protected from rust, dried and opened with drying oil and oil paint.
Cover with carbolate. This is a paste-like product for sealing cracks in walls and floors; it is applied in a layer of 0.5 cm. This composition should harden for 24 hours, and then the surface is sanded with fine sandpaper and painted with oil paint.
Projector primers. They consist of zinc dust, which is diluted with drying oil. The line is opened with this composition, and then it is painted (with enamel).
The toilet line can be treated with a product based on drying oil and red lead, or with special primers (for example: FL-031, FL-053).

Advice! In the bathroom, the cold water supply line can be painted with any type of enamel, but hot water supply pipes can only be coated with oil-resistant enamels.

How else do you deal with condensation?

Video: how to eliminate condensation on plastic water pipes

Elimination of condensate on pipes is not simple task, without determining the exact cause of this phenomenon.

Experts express this opinion on this matter.

Professional plumbers advise purchasing Corrugated. This is a special composition that can be bought at building materials stores. It is applied to the surface of the pipes and forms a strong and elastic film there, which prevents moisture from appearing.
Experts are also confident in the effectiveness of liquid thermal insulation, which is applied to a dry and cleaned line.
If all plumbing and pipework are in good condition, then condensation can accumulate due to the difference in temperature between the pipes and the air. In this situation, only insulation of the system will help. The most suitable option For such insulation, professionals call foamed polyethylene or Merylon, which are not difficult to buy at any building materials store at a low cost. This insulating material is attached by placing it on the pipeline. Secure it with a clamp and wire.

IMPORTANT! Experts warn that it is possible to eliminate fogging of the water supply system supplying cold water. different methods. Which one to choose can only be decided after a thorough analysis of the situation.

The fact is that in addition to the main ones, there are also side effects that lead to the formation of condensation. The source of dampness is evaporation from the basement, poor waterproofing and insulation of the walls.

Because of this, condensation and frost appear. In such situations, there is only one way out - insulating the floors and walls in the house with high-quality material.

In addition to the reasons already listed that lead to “wet” troubles, there are others. For example, weather conditions. Frequent and prolonged rains, close location of a body of water, proximity groundwater also significantly increases the moisture level in the house.

You can reduce it by installing a moisture absorber or an air conditioner that has a dehumidifying function. Moisture absorbers offered at modern market– an excellent method for eliminating moisture.

This plastic boxes containing absorbent tablets. When using these devices, they not only get rid of fogging on pipe networks, but also eliminate humidity throughout the entire house.

Experts can advise you on how to eliminate condensation on a cold water pipe. If you entrust them with this task, you can be sure that they will quickly and effectively eliminate the causes that lead to dampness in the apartment. And in this case, you won’t have to worry about people’s health.

This article discusses condensation on cold water pipes, the reasons for its occurrence and ways to combat condensation.

On both metal and plastic pipes, condensation forms most strongly in the summer, and to combat it, you should first find out the reason why it appears.

The main causes of condensation may be:

In the case of a cold water riser, condensation is constantly present on the pipes, periodically leading to the formation of a puddle on the floor.
The reason may be a leak in a pipe (or several pipes) of one of the apartments, for example, the neighbors upstairs have a leaking toilet tank.
You can try to figure this out by the sound at night, when there is no water flow and you can constantly hear water flowing through the sewer riser.
Another cause of condensation may be the absence or poor operation of exhaust ventilation, which is often found in new buildings and apartments with installed metal-plastic windows, where there is no hood if the windows are closed.
You can feel the difference by applying a newspaper to the hood with the windows open and closed. In the absence of exhaust ventilation, usually in the bathroom in which the risers are located, even installing a fan usually does not help.
In the case where condensation forms on plastic pipes related to apartment wiring, the reasons may also be a malfunction of the plumbing fixture and a weak or absent hood.

The appearance of condensation on the pipes in the toilet

Another common reason may be a constant leak in the tank, in which the water does not have time to heat up in the pipe, being replaced by constantly cold water, which cools it even more, as a result of which condensation appears on the pipes in the toilet. In this case, it is necessary to check and repair the taps and the inlet valve of the drain tank.

The appearance of condensation on the pipes in the bathroom

Before you think about how to get rid of condensation on water pipes in the bathroom, you should find out the reason using the following method:

If the riser pipe gets wet, the problem is with the neighbors above;
Wetness of the pipe leading to the plumbing fixture indicates a malfunction of the faucet;
If the check shows insufficient ventilation, remove blockages formed in the intake hole, etc.

How to remove condensation from pipes

When talking about how to get rid of condensation on pipes, we should talk separately about thermal insulation - a layer of thermal insulation material can reliably get rid of condensation.

If you don’t have such material at hand, you can use polyurethane foam:

The corrugation, the diameter of which is slightly larger than the diameter of the problem pipe, is cut into convenient pieces so that their length allows them to be put on the pipes;
Place the cut pieces on the pipes;
Fill the interpipe space with polyurethane foam.

Self-installation of thermal insulation

Insulation of pipes from condensate can also be done using available materials, which will require:

Sanding paper;
Rust converter (for example, phosphoric acid);
Durable thick thread;
Strips of fabric (width – 5-6 cm);
Epoxy putty;
Acetone;
Putty knife.

The main stages of the process, how to deal with condensation on pipes using homemade thermal insulation:

Sand the pipe, ensuring reliable adhesion to the material;
Moisten a rag with acetone and wipe the pipe, degreasing its surface;
Treat the pipe with phosphoric acid (protection against rust);
After drying, the pipes are covered with epoxy putty, which should look like thick paint and not run down;
Next, quickly (to prevent the material from hardening), wrap the pipe from bottom to top with a cloth with good tension and tie the last turn with thread;

Important: when wrapping, you should ensure that the turns of fabric overlap each other and that they are impregnated with putty.

After complete polymerization of the first layer of putty, another 2-3 layers of fabric insulation are applied in the same way;
Apply an epoxy layer;
After waiting for it to dry, sand and paint the pipe.

Getting rid of condensation on pipes

The appearance of condensation in the bathroom and toilet is a fairly common problem due to the high humidity in these rooms. If the ventilation of these rooms is poor or there is no insulation on the pipes supplying cold water, water may begin to accumulate both on the pipes themselves and, for example, on the toilet flush cistern.

Let's take a closer look at the main ways to remove condensate from pipes:

That's all I wanted to tell you about why condensation appears on pipes, what its appearance can lead to, and how to eliminate the appearance of condensation and its negative consequences. In any case, the main thing is to take care of proper room ventilation and insulation, which is useful not only from the point of view of combating condensation