Have you built a sauna and decided to get electrical wiring because you need voltage for lighting and various appliances, but you don’t know how to do it? Don't despair, we'll figure this out gradually. The main thing is to remember that this room has special conditions due to the proximity of water, the presence of steam and high temperature.
In order for the electrical wiring in the bathhouse to comply with safety standards, it is necessary to work out an installation plan, select, suitable tools, materials. 
Basic requirements for creating wiring in a bathhouse
Due to the presence of conditions for the transmission of voltage to a person, special requirements to the wiring in the bathhouse, since there is water nearby and sources of influence on the integrity of the wires. Do not forget about the flammability of materials, since baths are usually made of wood; it can catch fire in the event of a short circuit somewhere in the network.
Let us highlight the list of basic requirements:
It is recommended to install the input distribution panel in a protected area of the building - this can be a special place allocated for it, a vestibule or a rest area. It is necessary to install an additional RCD or circuit breaker with a sensitivity to current leakage of less than 0.05 Am based on the requirements of IP 44.
If possible, use equipment with IP55 protection, since the cables used for it have three cores and their own grounding with insulation resistant to temperatures from -40 to +130 Celsius.
It is advisable to use a permanent supply line electric current from the panel to all consumers. This is very convenient and possible, since the bathhouse usually does not have large sizes. And this will help eliminate the use of junction boxes.
Wiring elements are secured using various dielectrics, and self-tapping screws, screws or nails are completely excluded.
All information regarding the safety of electrical wiring in the bathhouse is contained in the PUE. Take a little time and study the rules, as they reveal very important points capable of facilitating the process of installing correct electrical wiring. Check out the photo of the wiring in the bathhouse so you know what it looks like in the correct examples.
What to do at the preparatory stage?
First of all, it is created detailed diagram wiring in the bathhouse, taking into account the specifics of the room. To do this, we recommend that you contact a specialist who has experience working with similar buildings, since it is necessary to take into account various nuances, consisting in the total power and number of consumers of the electrical network.
You can use a single-phase option or three-phase if increased power is required. Typically a single-phase line with a power of up to 14 kW is used. And three-phase is required if the power reaches up to 42 kW. Next, the duration of the wire cross-section, the type of RCD, the version, the machines used and other elements included in the network are calculated.
Voltage to the sauna: air or underground?
It is difficult to say which wiring is best to use, since it depends on specific situation, but the air version is more often used - it is easier to install and much cheaper. Underground is more expensive and takes much longer, as complex preparatory work will be required.
The selected option is marked on the diagram so that over time you do not forget where the input was and where the wires were led from, at what height and what type of cable was used.
We recommend entrusting various external wiring experienced craftsmen because it's very hard work. But, if you do it yourself, a simplified instruction will help you on how to do wiring using the air method:
- The cable must not be lowered below six meters to the roadway;
- The distance to the pedestrian part is at least 3.5 meters;
- Supports must be placed every 25 meters or less if the situation requires;
- The cable entrance to the bathhouse must be at a height of at least 2.75 meters.
To insert it into the room you will need a metal sleeve, but such a cable cannot be used in a bathhouse. Next you will have to use a wire based on a copper rod. 
But you can install the cable using the underground method. To do this, you will have to rely on the VBBShV cable, it is also called an armored wire, since it is equipped with a steel type of protection for the polymer sheath. It has four copper cores based on a cross-section of 10 mm2.
How to use this method:
- A trench is dug with a depth of at least 0.7 meters. About 10 cm of sand flooring is added to it;
- The wires are laid in a wave-like manner. Then they are covered with an additional layer of sand on a 10 cm base;
- This is covered with soil, a special mesh is added to block access to the wiring;
- A steel bushing is used to enter the bath;
- To connect to the distribution panel, you need to free the wire from the protective sheath;
- High-quality grounding is created and the installation of a lightning rod will be required.
How to make internal wiring in a bathhouse?
This stage is characterized by simplified installation work. But we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the rules of the PUE and take into account any nuances so that the wiring turns out to be safe and suitable for long-term operation.
How to do it:
- The distribution panel must be installed correctly;
- All wiring comes from distribution panel;
- Connecting lighting;
- The necessary sockets are installed.
- The rest of the part indicated in the wiring diagram is carried out.
It is very important to implement correct installation shield Rely on the following requirements for its safety and performance:
- A place is allocated for him next to the exit from the bathhouse. It must have excellent ventilation, easy access and adequate lighting;
- The device must have a housing made of reliable material with increased protection from moisture;
- The upper part of the distribution panel cannot be closer than 1.4 - 1.8 meters to the floor.
In order to correctly create the wiring from the shield itself, it is also necessary to adhere to safety rules. Let's consider the main points without compliance, the level of security will be questionable:
- We recommend using a uniform piece of cable without using junction boxes;
- If the structure is made of wood you will need open type cable wiring;
- Do not lean on PVC-based wire sheath or metal pipes;
- It is allowed to mount cables vertically or horizontally, but they must not be twisted or bent in any direction - they must be laid evenly;
- Switches and various sockets are mounted in the vestibule and rest compartment. Their installation in the steam room or washing department is prohibited;
- The cores of different wires can be connected by soldering or welding;
- No wires are ever laid under the stove, as this is prohibited for safety reasons.
Based on this information, you will be able to do the wiring yourself inside the bathhouse, as well as outside, provided you have advanced skills. But we recommend not to take risks and hire specialists to carry out all stages of creating the wiring, since electricity is no joke.
Photo of the wiring in the bathhouse
The choice of cable for laying in a bathhouse or sauna should be approached with the utmost responsibility, since not only the reliability of the electrical wiring, but also the safety of people depends on how correctly this choice is made. Peculiarity bath rooms is that the temperature in them can reach up to +170°C, and the humidity can reach 90%. For this reason, the cable must be suitable to meet these difficult conditions.
Of course, both a bathhouse and a sauna usually include more than one room, each of which temperature regime your own, therefore the cable required for different rooms is different. They are quite suitable for laying a lighting network in a waiting room. But what about a steam room if you need to connect both lighting and an electric oven? This requires a special heat-resistant cable, and there may be several options.
Meanwhile, we must not forget that in wooden premises, even an ordinary cable for a waiting room must be protected by a plastic box, despite the fact that the room is almost dry. Domestic cables of the brands PPGng-HF 3*1.5, VVGng-LS 3*1.5 or NYM 3*1.5 are suitable for the first group of premises - for wiring lighting in dressing rooms. For sockets in dressing rooms, it is better that the wire cross-section is at least 2.5 sq. mm.
The second group of premises is the bathhouse or sauna itself. This is where a special heat-resistant cable is needed. Among the domestic options, the following are suitable: three RKGM 1*2.5, PVKV 1*2.5, PRKA 1*2.5 or PAL 1*2.5, or three-core PMTC 3*2.5, PNBS 3*2.5, or PRKS 3*2.5. The wiring, in addition to everything, must have protective grounding.
So, the following are most often used as heat-resistant cables for baths and saunas:
three RKGM 1*2.5;
three PVKV 1*2.5;
three PRKA 1*2.5;
three PAL 1*2.5;
“P”, “K” - insulation made of silicone rubber, “G”, “M” - bare copper core. The main purpose of this wire is to make terminals for electrical equipment that operates in the absence of harmful effects aggressive media and oils.
Characteristic of this type of wire is that it does not support combustion, is resistant to mold, resistant to high and low atmospheric pressure, as well as mechanical shock and vibration. Ozone and solar radiation are also unable to harm this wire.
Silicone rubber insulation and fiberglass braiding allow this cable to be safely used at temperatures up to +180°C, as well as at 100% humidity.
The conductor of the cable is stranded copper. The fiberglass braid of the cable is impregnated with heat-resistant silicone varnish. It is thanks to these advantages that the RKGM cable is often used as a heat-resistant cable for saunas and baths.
“P” - wire, “B” - for electrical machine terminals, “KV” - insulation made of two-layer silicone rubber. Designed for the manufacture of winding terminals of class “H”, for equipment operating in conditions free from exposure to oils and aggressive environments. Withstands temperatures up to +180°C, can work in conditions of high humidity.
A characteristic feature of the wire is the flexibility of the current-carrying core, which can withstand at least 20 bending cycles. High and low atmospheric pressure is safe for the wire. The wire is resistant to vibrations and mechanical shocks. The insulation is resistant to mold and impregnating compounds and does not propagate fire. These qualities allow this wire to be used for wiring in baths and saunas.
“P” - wire with a copper conductor, “RK” - insulated with silicone rubber impregnated with an anti-rot compound, “A” - increased hardness. This cable is usually used for the installation of electric heating devices, electric motors, and also often when installing electrical wiring in drying chambers, saunas and bathhouses. The wire insulation does not contain halogens, is flame retardant, resistant to mold, ozone, solar radiation, in addition, it has low smoke and gas emissions. The insulation can withstand temperatures up to +180°C and humidity up to 98%. The wire easily tolerates bends during installation.
“P” - wire, “A” - in asbestos insulation, “L” - varnished. This furnace wire can withstand temperatures of even +300°C for 3000 hours, however, when heated from +250°C, the insulation becomes toxic, and you need to keep this in mind. For fixed installation of electrical wiring in a bathhouse or sauna, this wire is perfect.
The wire is mechanically strong, abrasion-resistant, and resistant to gasoline, silicone varnish, and technical toluene. In the temperature range from -50°C to +200°C it is completely environmentally friendly. On top of the conductive core there is a single-layer asbestos roving impregnated with silicone varnish, then a film of fluoroplastic-4, on top of the fluoroplastic there is enameled asbestos yarn. Capable of withstanding 20 bending cycles.
“P” - wire, “M” - mounting, “T” - heat-resistant, “K” - insulated with silicone rubber. Designed for installation of equipment and electrical devices, including special applications, such as heating equipment, electric stoves, electric furnaces. Suitable for laying wiring in baths and saunas.
The stranded copper conductor in silicone insulation is UV resistant, suitable for installation in rooms with 100% humidity, and reliably serves in the temperature range from -60°C to +200°C. The wire insulation does not propagate fire when laid alone.
Wire for fixed installation in baths and saunas. Specialized wire for electrical wiring of electric heaters, electric furnaces and other equipment operating in rooms with elevated temperatures.
The copper conductors of the wire are insulated with silicone rubber, and the cable sheath is made of fluorosiloxane rubber. Fluorosiloxane rubber allows the cable to easily withstand temperatures up to +150°C.
If for ordinary wires in simple rubber insulation, connection directly to a heating device is unacceptable, then the heat-resistant silicone insulation of the PNBS wire allows this.
Wire insulated from silicone rubber for use in baths and saunas. The cable sheath is also made of silicone rubber. The wire is quite flexible and does not deform due to changes in temperature and humidity. The shell is resistant to oils and gasoline.
The cable can safely withstand temperatures up to +250°C and does not become toxic if overheated. The multi-core design makes it possible to transmit power up to 30 kW via one PRKS cable.
One small but important stage of construction simply cannot be avoided. It is necessary to supply electricity to the bathhouse, make proper wiring inside the room in accordance with established rules and install points: sockets, switches and lighting fixtures, according to the diagram. About this and that how to do wiring in a bathhouse and a steam room with your own hands, you will learn from this article.
How to connect a sauna to electricity from the house?
The bathhouse is built separately from the house and is connected to the switchboard with a separate cable, through its own machine and RCD. Most often, the power cable is laid underground, which has some advantages over creating an overhead line.
- The number one advantage is that this type of gasket provides cable safety and eliminates its breakage in gusty or squally winds.
- Advantage number two is that cable inconspicuousness does not spoil the external aesthetic appearance of the surrounding landscape. Switchboard most often installed at the entrance to the room, with outside, but installation indoors is also possible. Connected to this shield electrical sockets and lighting fixtures.
If the plans include the installation of additional electrical equipment - an electric furnace (although who will install it in frame version or an electric stove in a log house?), a steam generator, electric heating, then the total power must correspond not only to the wiring in the bathhouse and steam room, but also to the main power cable itself.
Separately standing bathhouse can be connected with a SIP cable or aluminum wires without insulation, which are stretched between two buildings. It is better to choose a SIP cable so as not to pull it over a section of wire without insulation. The SIP system has its own system of fastening to facades and a load-bearing steel core, which makes it possible to tension the cable.
If the footage from the line connection point is more than 25 meters, an intermediate pole must be installed. The SIP cable has aluminum wires and cannot be inserted into a wooden bathhouse. To enter the bathhouse, a power circuit breaker or switch is installed on the facade, after which a cable with copper wires is connected and introduced into the room using a metal sleeve.
Underground electrical cable installation
This method of connecting a bath will require a significant amount of earthworks when digging a trench with a depth of 0.8 to 1.2 meters, from the connection point to the bathhouse. The cable for underground installation can be laid directly into the ground or a plastic sleeve from the pipe can be used to better protect the cable from damage.
For these purposes, it is better to use products with insulation made from XLPE grade cross-linked polyethylene, which has a guarantee of about 25 years. The cable can be connected to two panels from below, through the foundation along interior wall with its installation in a metal pipe. This type of connection is intended to protect the cable from possible mechanical damage and comply with the requirements of the Electrical Installation Regulations.
Installation of distribution panel
The dimensions of the internal shield are determined by the number of used circuit breakers and RCDs that will be installed. The shield is placed at a height of 1.5 to 2 m from the floor near the entrance to the bathhouse in order to turn it on upon entering. At the input, an RCD must be installed for all electrical wiring and an input circuit breaker, which must have a lower operating current than the circuit breaker in the house that protects the outgoing line. If a 25 A automatic circuit breaker is installed in the house, a 20 A automatic circuit breaker can be installed in the bathhouse at the input. The RCD at the input protects all the electrical wiring of the bathhouse and is designed to protect the bathhouse from fire and protect people from possible electric shock if it leaks.
Electrics in the bathhouse: rules, wiring diagram
Next, we will consider two main issues that arise when installing electrics in a bathhouse. First, for example, consider the simplest wiring diagram in the dressing room, with detailed description the whole process. Further important practical advice on the topic: do-it-yourself wiring in a bathhouse.
Correct wiring diagram in the bathhouse and its step-by-step installation
If you are looking for information that will indicate where and how many sockets, switches, and lamps you should install, then this is not quite the right approach to solving the issue.
Start thinking about what devices you will use and where they will be located. Determine places for switches, lamps and start creating your wiring diagram in the bathhouse. Functional placement Electricians mean that when entering a room, the switch is located by itself, turning on the TV is not associated with rearranging the furniture, and using the socket does not involve adopting a horizontal position. Below are the step-by-step steps:
Step one: Drawing a wiring diagram
Let's start with a simple working electrical circuit for the waiting room. The minimum set of points consists of:
- Switch (1 pc.);
- Electrical sockets (2 pcs.);
- Lamp (1 pc.);
- Distribution box (1 pc.);
- Automatic switch (1 pc.).
The simplest wiring diagram wiring for the dressing room, taking into account distances and installation locations 
In the photo: Designation of the circuit breaker on the diagram 
In the photo: Designation of electric lamps on the diagram 
In the photo: Designation of the switch on the diagram 
In the photo: Designation of sockets on the diagram 
In the photo: Layout of all nodes and points Step two: We install cable channels (canisters) or corrugation (tubes) for wiring
All wires, in case open wiring, must be protected by plastic cases or corrugated hoses. And this is really important!
I want to give you a real one example from life. In a city apartment, children were playing ball in the hallway. The ball hit the wall along which the insulated wire from the lamp ran down and the wire turned into a fuse cord. A white, luminous point began to move, devouring the insulation. I turned off the lamp, but it was too late, the process had already begun. It’s good that there was no cobweb or “dust bunny” in the way of the light and the light did not have time to hide in the wooden baseboard and the process itself was controlled by adults, otherwise a fire could not have been avoided.
If you choose corrugation, then all the wiring is passed through it in advance using an internal wire. When planning and calculating the volume of material, take it with a small (5-10%) reserve. If you opted for cable channels - pencil cases (and I prefer this option), then the laying of the wire can be carried out directly when connecting the wiring. When choosing pencil cases, be guided by the wiring dimensions. You can’t take a small volume because the wire won’t fit, and there’s simply no point in taking more than you need.
In the photo: cable channels of various sizes for wiring 
In the photo: wiring laid to the switch in the cable channel Step three: Laying wires in cable channels
Having started installing the wiring in the bathhouse, you must, of course, be provided with the appropriate wires and cables. But how to choose a wire from the right material with the right cross-section? Having a professional project in hand, no questions will arise, but how to solve it if the circuit and wiring itself are made independently?
Some simple rules will help you cope with this task:
- We do not purchase aluminum wires. Why? Increased fragility, inability to directly twist with copper, lower throughput with equal cross-section;
- We use multi-core wires: usually two or three wires, when planning a grounding device;
- For power points of household appliances from the distribution box, use a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm2;
- For lamps with a power from 0.1 to 2 kW, a wire with a cross-section of even 0.5 mm 2 is sufficient;
- When purchasing a wire, follow the priorities in descending order: material, cross-section, insulation, price.
Table
ratio of the cross-section of stranded copper wire for use in a network with a voltage of 220V to the load power
| Wire cross-section in mm | Power in kW | Current in A |
| 0,5 | 2,4 | 11 |
| 0,75 | 3,3 | 15 |
| 1 | 3,7 | 17 |
| 1,5 | 5 | 23 |
| 2 | 5,7 | 26 |
Step four: We connect the wiring according to the wiring diagram
And so, there is a diagram, the cable channels are installed, the wiring is routed, all that remains is to connect the pre-purchased sockets, switches and lamps into one working circuit. During the connection process, I recommend using two methods: the block method and the twisting method. In fact, some count 5, seven or even 7! such methods, but the ones I offer are the simplest, most reliable and not expensive.
Preparation and installation of connections in the block
The first step is to remove part of the insulation of the wire that will be attached to the terminal. As soon as it is not removed! Teeth and a sharp knife are not very good a good option. It’s clear about teeth, but when using a knife, there is a possibility of damage to the conductive part of the wire. It is possible to use heating with a suitable device, or even better, purchase an automatic stripper - a special tool for removing insulation.
Wire Stripping Tools
You need to measure about 3 cm from the beginning of the wire and melt (or bite off with a stripper) part of the insulation. We pull out the conductive part, leaving 1 cm and then, twisting the wire, we get a perfect twist. After twisting, cut off the excess with pliers and solder the conductive part.
Preparing the wire for installation in the block
After this, we twist the exposed conductive part for connection into the block and insert it under the washer into the sockets of the block and tighten the screw. Carbolite terminal blocks are mounted in accordance with GOST 17557-88. Installation of wires with a cross-section of up to 1.5 mm in such blocks does not pose any difficulties at all.
Installation of the wire in the block and installation in distribution box
Preparation and installation of twisted connections
You can make connections by twisting the wires. This option is cheaper, but not by much, so the choice is yours. Although after installation using the twisting method, everything will be hidden in the junction box and the chosen option will not have any effect on the aesthetic side of the issue. And regarding the reliability and efficiency of twisting as a connection method, we can say the following.
At the moment, this method of connection is a little disliked, suggesting that it is morally outdated and somehow flawed, especially construction market offers us many affordable, modern and technological solutions. But the fact remains: twisting is one of the most reliable types installation for one simple reason. With a high-quality connection, the contact area of the elements being connected is greater than when using other options! And this, in turn, provides confidence that overheating of the connection point will not occur, which makes this choice safer and more reliable.
How to make high-quality twist?
- We remove part of the insulating coating of the wires;
- We make a kind of fan out of each wire;
- We combine the resulting fans in one plane;
- We perform manual twisting of wires;
- We perform additional twisting using pliers;
- We solder the resulting twist;
- We remove the end of the resulting twist using wire cutters;
- We insulate the connection with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.
How to make a quality twist
That's all, the virtual installation of wiring in the bathhouse according to the chosen scheme is completed. But, however, in order not to deceive the expectations of individual readers, I am posting working proven wiring diagram in the bathhouse. Based on it, everyone can make their own design that suits them, removing or adding the necessary elements.
Electrics in the bathhouse: important practical tips
In conclusion, I will give a few simple but important practical advice regarding the organization of electrics in the bathhouse. There are NO insignificant moments that relate to electrics!
- Power sockets are connected to the switchboard with a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 brand VVG or NYM 3x2.5, the lighting and switch are connected with the same cable with a wire cross-section of 1.5 sq. mm.
- All passages through walls performed in a metal sleeve;
- Cable laid at a height of 10 cm from the ceiling, distribution pipes are installed at the same distance boxes;
- Switches and distribution boxes installed on the side of relatively dry rooms;
- Sockets in the steam room are not installed, in the bathroom or washing room you can install sockets with a degree of protection IP44, for the protection of which a separate RCD and automatic circuit breaker are installed in the panel;
- Lamps are connected to the junction box with a 3x1.5 cable and when laying the cable under wood trim steam rooms or sinks must be inside a metal pipe;
- To avoid laying cables in a pipe, lamps in the steam room can be installed in the corners, and connected from above through the attic to reduce the length of the cable that runs under the lining, and first pass the cable into copper pipe, which is easier to mount and bend;
- Do not try hide the wiring under wooden baseboard, place the wires near the floor together with sockets and extension cords. What if you accidentally drop a bucket of water, there will be fireworks! Perhaps an additional RCD needs to be installed. Remember about children, pets, start worrying in advance;
- Do not twist together aluminum and copper wire. This is an unreliable connection, it will oxidize over time and there will be no necessary contact, and with a high current there will also be heating, and then it’s not far from a fire. Don’t make such a connection even for a while, then you will forget, and everything temporary becomes permanent. Use contact connectors.
- For greater safety, after each entry of electrical wires, be it a bathhouse, outbuilding or house, it is advisable to put separate automatic fuse. This will make it easier to troubleshoot in the future, provide better protection, and in the event of a short circuit it will work faster;
- If single-phase wiring, then it is advisable to separate wires for sockets through your automatic fuse and wires for lighting through another. You won’t be left in complete darkness; again, it’s easier to find the cause of the problem yourself later. If the electrical network is three-phase, then each phase must be evenly loaded with consumers. For example, use one phase for sockets, the second for lighting, the third for household needs: pump, water heater, household lighting, etc. Overload in the event of simultaneous switching on of electrical appliances is excluded.
Three words about connectors and why I don’t like them?
Regarding the connectors - a separate issue, I personally am afraid to use them, this disease remains from using the Volga car. When I turned on the low beam, smoke poured out from under the torpedo, this forced me to return from the dacha before darkness, I remember I even had to exceed the speed limit so as not to catch fire. They passed a law - drive with the headlights on, decided that they were completely under pressure, couldn’t stand it, removed the dashboard, cleaned the contact connection on the switch and soldered it. A friend’s torpedo on the number nine burnt out completely; he barely managed to jump out of the car, lucky! If copper wires are used, it is better to twist them, solder them, and wrap them with insulating tape. If you are confident in the quality of the connecting contacts, then it is easier with them.
Which circuit should I put the light switch on?
I recently made an important discovery for myself. Have you ever wondered which circuit to install the light switch on - phase or neutral? Do you know that yourself? At first I thought that it would be safer to use the neutral wire; it wouldn’t shake if the switch broke. It turned out that phase - safer. If a light bulb socket is stuck in a chandelier, but the bulb itself remains in your hands, turn off the light and, using pliers on a stepladder, without fear of shaking, calmly unscrew the socket. If you approach reverse order, then in case of shaking - falling from a stepladder, pushing off from a chandelier, is extremely inconvenient than sliding down the wall with a switch.
About lamps and dimmers in the bathhouse
And one more thing about lamps. Now everyone is gradually abandoning incandescent lamps and switch to energy-saving and rightly so, such lamps save electricity, last longer and heat up slightly. However, it must be taken into account that some lighting control devices on the market, in particular dimmers (light intensity regulators) and switches with diode backlighting, are not suitable for such lamps.
As for dimmers, you need to use special models for energy-saving lamps, dimmers for conventional lamps with energy-saving lamps do not work due to the design features of the latter. LED-backlit switches can cause lamps to flicker when the lights are off, which is again due to differences in the design of conventional and energy-saving lamps. If your lamp flickers when the lights are off, then the switch may be to blame. You need to either turn off the backlight diode in the switch, or use a special switch, I think that such should exist.
This article is over... It is clear that for some the number of letters, text and information presented will seem excessive, for others, on the contrary, something will not be enough. However, the purpose of this article was not to make you a ready-made professional electrician. The goal was to provide an understanding of the entire process of organizing electrics in a bathhouse with your own hands, as well as to draw attention to certain important aspects of its installation. I hope this worked out and the information is useful to you...
Electrical wiring in a bathhouse has a number of features. And this is mainly due to the high temperatures and humidity in this room, which negatively affect the condition of the wires, as well as the specific nature of the flammable wood material that makes up the walls of the steam room. Properly running the cable to the bathhouse and installing the wiring inside is vitally important.
The ideal option would be if it is possible to supply electricity to the bathhouse from the central distribution panel through a power supply line specially dedicated for this purpose. There are two ways to lay a power cable and bring it directly to the bathhouse: “ground”, when the wire is laid underground, and “aerial”, when it is carried through the air. The methods must be provided for by the designs of the baths themselves.
"Earth" installation method
This is the most reliable way, but it is not always suitable. Preliminarily on personal plot it is necessary to complete all agricultural work and confirm the fact that the wire will not have to be routed through the neighbor’s territory. A so-called “armored cable” of the VBBShV brand with 4 copper conductors, the cross-section of which is 10 sq. mm, is laid underground. This cable is quite expensive, costs about 200 rubles/lm. But it is extremely reliable and durable thanks to the steel braid sandwiched between its plastic shells. Accordingly, moles, mice and other rodents will not be able to gnaw it. The cable is not afraid of earth shrinkage.
It is not recommended to use metal pipes for laying cables, since they are collectors of condensate, which reduces the service life of the wire. They can only be used in places where the cable runs along a pole or along a wall. In this case, a pipe is used in height not< 1,8 метров.
Laying cables underground: connecting to the bathhouse using the “earth” method
The sequence of actions when installing cables underground is as follows:
1. A trench is dug to a depth of not< 0,7 метров, на дно которой засыпают песок слоем примерно 10 см. Сверху провода засыпаются таким же слоем песка.
2. The cable is inserted into the building through a steel bushing. It is necessary to protect the wire during movement and complete shrinkage of the wooden wall. Electrical wiring to the bathhouse should be carried out especially carefully and carefully.
3. The cable is freed from its “armor” immediately before insertion into the shield. Only after this the cable cores are connected to the machine, providing grounding and lightning protection.
Important! During installation underground cable eliminate the possibility of dangerous tensions and mechanical damage in the event of soil displacement: create a reserve by placing the cable in the trench in a wave-like manner.
Laying cables using the “aerial” method
If you choose more economical way If you decide to run the cable through the air, then consider following points:
1. If the distance to the bathhouse is more than 25 meters, it is necessary to place a support between the gaps. Air laying of the wire is carried out using the so-called stretcher, or on porcelain insulators.
2. The cable must be located at a certain, regulated height. Above the roadway it cannot be placed below 6 m above ground level, above pedestrian paths - 3.5 m (not lower). The wire is attached to the bathhouse at a height of 2.75 m above the ground.
Connecting the power cable to the bathhouse using the “air” method
3. Usually SIP is used - self-supporting insulated cable. Its warranty period is 25 years. SIP cables (SIP-4, SIP-3, SIP-2A) have a special weather-resistant polyethylene coating and special load-bearing elements that are resistant to overloads. Its cross section should not be< 16 кв. мм с пропускной способностью — до 63 ампер. Если подключение однофазное, то мощность будет равна 14 кВт, а если трехфазное – 42 кВт. Главный недостаток СИП состоит в их проблематичном вводе в автомат защиты из-за низкой пластичности, они трудно изгибаются.
4. SIP is introduced into the bathhouse (but not into the steam room itself, since aluminum wires cannot be placed there) through a metal sleeve. And completely different wires are introduced into the steam room - NYM, NG or VVG. The VVGng-LS cable with a cross-section of 3x1.5 (it is used to connect lighting), VVGng-LS with a cross-section of 3x2.5 (used to connect sockets) has proven itself well. VVG insulation does not support combustion, the level of smoke in the event of smoldering is very low. For the transition, sealed copper-aluminum connectors should be used; SIPs should be attached to anchor clamps, the so-called tensioners.
Installation of electrical wiring in a bathhouse: main stages
In the process of installing electrical wiring directly in the bathhouse, the following stages are distinguished:
1. Installation of the shield;
2. Wiring from the shield;
3. Connecting lamps;
4. Connecting sockets;
5. Connecting an electric furnace.
Electrical panel installation rules
The power supply system of the bathhouse will be powered from the distribution panel. It is important to choose the optimal location for its installation, observing the following requirements:
1. Access to the shield must be free;
2. The place should be well ventilated;
3. The shield must not be placed in a steam room or other fire-hazardous premises;
4. Good lighting of the room with a shield.
Electrical panel in the bathhouse (located in the relaxation room)
Usually the shield is installed in the rest room. It consists of a residual current device, an input circuit breaker, and output circuit breakers. Its upper part should be 1.4 m - 1.8 m above the floor, no less.
If the wiring is in wooden bath single-phase, the power cable must contain at least 3 cores. In accordance with the new GOST, the color of the phase conductor must be gray, but you may come across wires from old stocks with a white or brown phase conductor. This core is placed on the upper terminal of the input circuit breaker. From the lower terminal, the phase conductor is partially moved using jumpers to the upper terminals of the outgoing machines, or routed through distribution busbars to the machines. Zero core (blue or of blue color) is placed on the zero block, the protective core (yellow-green) is placed on the protective block, or on the welded bolt of the shield. The phase conductors of the cables going to the load are connected to the lower contacts of the machines. The outgoing and input cables are laid very carefully in the shield, then they are taken out of the shield through a corrugated pipe. RCDs and circuit breakers must be installed taking into account the level of load on the cable.
We calculate the load on the cable, select the required cross-section
It is necessary to know the load in order to select the correct cable cross-section. There are special tables for selecting wire cross-sections, where its dependence on the expected power of the devices is calculated. Electrical appliances usually indicate their power consumption, so it’s worth paying attention to this Special attention.
1. If only lighting fixtures are intended to be placed in the bathhouse, the total power will be approximately 1-2 kW.
2. If you do not use an electric furnace, the total power will be around 5-6 kW.
It is advisable to take into account a 20% power reserve. For example, if the total power in the bathhouse is 5 kW, then it is better to calculate the wiring according to the value of 6 kW. With this power, a VVGng-LS cable with a cross-section of 3x4, that is, 4 sq. mm, is suitable. It is advisable to choose cables going out to lighting with a cross-section of 1.5 square meters. mm (3x1.5), for sockets - with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm (3x2.5).
Selecting the input machine
To do this, you need to know the total power. Then we calculate the current by dividing the total load by the voltage. For example, 6000 / 220 will be 27 A. But the machine should be selected with a margin - approximately 32 A. The selection of outgoing machines in groups is carried out based on the same principle. It is advisable to sign each machine on the dashboard, indicating which group of electrical appliances it is responsible for.
Also next to the panel there should be a wiring diagram for the bathhouse. Be sure to connect residual current devices that shut off power supplies if they come into contact with water. This will help save lives in case of an emergency. An RCD with a cut-off current will protect from fire. Make sure that the conductors in the terminal block clamps are well secured to avoid heating the area due to loose clamping.
Wiring the electrical cable from the panel
Initially, a wiring diagram for the bathhouse must be drawn. When drawing up a diagram and in the further practical implementation of the wiring plan, the following must be taken into account:
1. It is recommended to route the cables coming from the panel in one piece.
2. If the bathhouse has wooden walls, then the electrical wiring can be open, running on top wooden walls. It is prohibited to place wires in PVC pipes.
3. If the walls are brick, the electrical wiring for the bathhouse will be hidden, hidden behind a layer of plaster.
4. All cables should be installed in a strictly vertical and horizontal position. There should be no kinks or twisting, as indicated in the latest edition of the PUE instructions. It is allowed to lay wires from junction boxes only at right angles.
5. Try to place wires in the least visible places. They should not be laid opposite doors, closer than 50 cm from metal pipes and radiators.
6. Switches, sockets, as well as installation boxes are prohibited from being used in rooms with high temperatures and humidity. Over time, moisture will accumulate in them, and a short circuit will inevitably follow. This applies, first of all, to the steam room. Therefore, they must be located in dressing rooms or rest rooms.
7. Wire cores should be connected by welding or soldering.
8. Use protective grounding.
10. Wires are prohibited from being placed in metal sheaths and pipes.
Installation and connection of lamps
The protection class of bath lamps should not be< IP-44 и мощностью не >75 W. Only glass lamps should be used, and the body should be metal, connected to the protective conductor of the wire. The plastic housing may become deformed. Lamps should not be placed on the ceiling, but only on the walls, since the temperature is usually highest near the ceiling. In the steam room, low-voltage voltage (12V) is usually used. For this purpose, step-down transformers, which are located outside the steam room, are useful. It is also prohibited to install fluorescent lamps in the steam room.
Connecting sockets
Sockets can only be installed on the walls in the dressing room or rest room at a height of 90 cm. Their protection class should not be< IP-44. Желательно использовать розетки с крышками.
Electric furnace connection standards
To connect an electric furnace, you will need wires that can withstand high temperatures (up to about 170 degrees) and high power consumption, which is 4 kW on average). For these purposes wiring will do in a cable channel with single wires of the PRKA, PMTK, PRKS or RKGM brands. A copper cable with a cross-section of 3*2.5 mm can withstand approximately 5 kW of load. It is acceptable to stretch wires of the PMTC type to the installation box, which is located outside the area of high temperature and humidity, and run a regular cable (VVG 3x2.5) from the box to the panel.
Video: electrics in the bathhouse and sauna
When installing electrical wires, remember that proper electrical wiring in the bathhouse is the key to your comfortable and safe stay in this room. Before installation, carefully study the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules) in the latest edition - the electrician’s desktop “Bible”. Try to approach the issue as responsibly as possible by installing the wiring yourself, or contact a specialist.
Proper sauna wiring is considered a key safety measure. To conduct communications in a wet room, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of the PUE and state standards. Below we're talking about about how to properly install electrical wiring in a bathhouse with your own hands.
General view of the electrical wiring in a DIY sauna
If you decide to do all the work yourself, then you need to familiarize yourself with the technical and practical minimum for a high-quality result. Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a bathhouse will save a decent amount of money.
Requirements for work and checkpoints
- a separate line from the main panel is laid to the sauna;
- the path to the end points (luminaires) is minimal;
- wiring is laid openly (with appropriate protective measures);
- It is mandatory to install an RCD or automatic circuit breaker at the input;
- It is prohibited to install sockets and household switches directly in the steam room;
- lines are prohibited from being laid above heating equipment;
- class of lamps, sockets and switches is not lower than IP54;
- lightning protection and grounding must be installed on the line;
- You cannot use metal insulation for gearboxes (cable and wire products);
- The wires are connected in junction boxes using the terminal method;
- used for organizing electrical wiring copper cables, non-flammable type VVG-ng.
Laying methods
For steam rooms, as for conventional power supply facilities, two types of cable routing can be used: overhead and underground. The first, simpler one, is used everywhere due to the absence of the need for excavation work.
According to the type of power supply, single-phase and three-phase inputs to saunas and steam rooms are distinguished.
The method is the least expensive. If the metering device and the panel are located on a support or on a fence, then the checkpoint wire follows the route of entry into the building. Before entering the waiting room in external wall building, a through sleeve is installed and circuit breaker, if necessary, the transition of the SIP into the cable and reduction of the cross-section will be carried out in the junction box.
Example of air inlet into a sauna
Laying cables underground
The method is expensive and requires more time for construction and installation work. The main advantage of laying underground is the complete concealment of the power supply route - such laying will not spoil the appearance of the site.
For work, armored cables with copper conductors are used. They have the longest service life and excellent technical characteristics.
Single-phase 220 V connections will fully cover the needs of a standard home. On average, 10 kW is consumed for general needs for a bathhouse, which is 45 A taking into account the installation of a separate stove and lighting.
Three-phase wiring is used to connect high-power facilities in large cottages with many additional electrical appliances. If heating device three-phase, then the network to the steam room must be made with a five-wire cable or four-wire with connection to the general circuit of the building.
This method has a number of advantages:
- constant access for inspection and repair;
- use of smaller cross-section gearboxes;
- Possibility of use in fire hazardous and damp areas.
General view of open wiring
Requirements for electrical appliances
Requirements apply to the distribution panel, sockets and household switches, lamps and cables.
Cable and wire products (CPP)
According to SNIPs and PUE for wet areas heat-resistant conductors are used. The cable must be heat-resistant and insensitive to humidity. Cable lines are laid strictly horizontally and vertically. Diagonal sections are prohibited to avoid future emergencies associated with insulation breakdowns.
Peculiarities:
- The posting will be done openly.
- Corrugated pipes are selected from self-extinguishing plastics.
- The pipes are fastened with plastic clamps along the entire length of the line with a frequency of 0.7 m.
From the input and metering device, the line is laid to the distribution panel (with automatic devices and RCD), which is the communications control center in the bathhouse. Installation is permissible in a dry room (for example, a locker room). The equipment must be well lit and also resistant to mechanical stress. After the panel, step-down transformers are used to organize the lighting network, which make it possible to obtain a voltage of 12 V.
An example of installing an electrical panel in a recreation room with your own hands
Requirements for the installation location of the shield:
- open access;
- good lighting (as a rule, the installation location is chosen near a window);
- lack of excess moisture in the room;
- A separate automatic machine is installed on the electric furnace.
The rest room and locker room use the same lighting fixtures as in living rooms. In the steam room and dressing room there are special requirements for them:
- Installation prohibited ceiling lamps– during operation, they are subject to particularly heavy steam loads and also accumulate condensation, which can lead to a short circuit.
- It is preferable to install lamps at foot level or at a height of 1.6 m.
- The protection class of luminaires must be at least IP
- Preferred use LED lamps- With great strength and resistance to high temperatures.
An example of installing a lamp in a bathhouse
Sockets, household switches, junction boxes
Installed in dressing rooms and rest rooms. The installation of any devices other than lamps in steam rooms is prohibited.
Peculiarities:
- One junction box is installed per element.
- All elements are installed at a height of 160 cm.
- Sockets are installed at a level of up to 80 cm from the floor.
Installation
Stages of work:
- Wiring the electrical network from the panel to individual points.
- Installation of the distribution panel. Carried out in accordance with the norms and requirements of the PUE and relevant GOSTs. Modular cabinet must be purchased with installation in mind additional equipment(relay, additional RCD and automatic circuit breaker), i.e. the bar should contain 3-4 empty cells.
- Entry device into the building. Can be done open and in a closed way. The choice of subsequent equipment and gearbox does not depend on external power supply.
- Selection of equipment and gearbox. Cables are selected based on the total load. For example, for a total load of 6 kW, a 3 mm 2 gearbox will be quite sufficient. For internal networks, copper cables VVG-ng (flame retardant) and copper wires with a rubber waterproof sheath (APV, PPV, PRN, PRKA, RKGM, etc.) are used. According to safety rules, the gearbox must be installed in corrugated tubes and fire-resistant cable channels - flexible PVC, etc. The pipes must be equipped with a probe (wire) - to allow cables to be tightened into the cavity.
- Calculation of power of electrical appliances, lighting. At this stage, it is necessary to estimate the total electricity consumption in the bathhouse. To do this, the preliminary power of electrical appliances is calculated and added to the total lighting load. In addition, the line must withstand a reserve of 3 kV to the total power (for the prospect of installing newer or more powerful electrical equipment).
- Individual branches of electrical wiring are made exclusively in single pieces of cables. The route selection is aimed at reducing conductor connections.
- To connect electrical appliances to the steam room, the supply is carried out through insulated through holes made in the immediate vicinity of them.
- Grounding must be carried out to all elements of the electrical network.
- Channels from holes and pipes are sealed with moisture-proofing mastics or bitumen to prevent condensate from entering and accumulating inside the cavities.
- Lamps must be made of glass and ceramics and not contain exposed metal elements.
DIY socket installation
When performing all work, you must follow the instructions. This will help avoid negative consequences and rapid failure of the internal power supply network of the bathhouse.
The practical part contains several stages:
- creation of a power supply diagram indicating the exact location of main lines, branches, installation of switches, sockets, panel and lamps;
- purchase of selected equipment and gearboxes;
- organization of external power supply;
- installation of a distribution panel indoors;
- laying of cable and wire products;
- installation of electrical equipment;
- compound individual elements into a single system;
- checking grounding and serviceability of electrical wiring;
- measurements of resistance circuits and measures to adjust parameters (installation of additional electrodes in the grounding circuit);
- checking RCDs and automatic devices (TEST button);
- checking the input machine.
If the last stage of work is successfully carried out, the electrical wiring in the bathhouse is considered completed.
Electrical installation. Video
The video below will demonstrate the installation of wiring in a bathhouse.
- insulation of materials for steam rooms and saunas must be heat-resistant;
- for main sections of the line, a checkpoint with a cross-section of at least 16 m² is used;
- sockets and household switches installed on metal plates;
- an insulating fireproof material such as asbestos is placed under sections of the lines;
- pipes choose flexible corrugated ones made of self-extinguishing PVC plastic;
- Wood is treated with an antiseptic to improve water-repellent properties.
