How to insulate the walls of a house with polystyrene foam. How to insulate the outside of a house with polystyrene foam with your own hands, reviews. Prices for different types of primer

In situations where the walls of the house cannot retain a sufficient amount of heat, it will be extremely difficult to heat it, even with the installation of modern and efficient heating systems. According to experts, walls account for about 30% of the total heat loss of a building. Therefore, the topic of how to insulate a house with polystyrene foam from the outside, a video of the process of which can be seen below, does not lose its relevance. This material It is easy to use and low cost, while guaranteeing a good effect.

Preparing the wall surface

In order to easily insulate walls with foam plastic with your own hands, you need to study this topic and the video will tell you all the features of this process. Work begins with preparing the working surface.

The wall must be assessed for defects in the form of chips or cracks, as well as formations of moss, fungus and others. All elements that do not hold well enough will have to be removed, including old plaster if it has begun to move away from the wall surface. The same rule applies to paint and growing moss.

If serious defects are detected, including deep cracks, they are first eliminated. Usually used for this purpose construction foam or cement mortar.

Ends preparatory stage wall priming work. Any solution with universal properties that is characterized by deep penetration is suitable for this. This treatment will not only increase the adhesion of the working surface, but will also provide the wall surface with protection from all kinds of biological activity in the future.

Important! To assess the quality of preparation of the working surface, it is enough to carefully glue a 10*10*10 mm block of foam plastic to it using a special solution. If after three days it comes off easily, the preparation was carried out incorrectly.

Glue selection

In the video on how to insulate a house with polystyrene foam from the outside, you can clearly see how it is done correctly. But first you need to select the appropriate glue and prepare the surface for gluing foam sheets.

The glue itself is prepared in accordance with the instructions on the packaging - traditionally the mass is diluted until it reaches a creamy state. Ready solution should not drain from the spatula when it takes a horizontal position.

When insulating walls with foam plastic, you can apply glue to the surface of the insulation in different ways, depending on its characteristics:

Glue from a balloon is applied to the central part of the slab and along its perimeter;
If working surface the walls are uneven, the solution is applied not only around the perimeter, but also in the central part;
To ensure uniform application of the solution when insulating a house with polystyrene foam yourself, it is better to use a notched trowel.

Attaching the starting profile

The next stage in insulating a house with foam plastic with your own hands is applying markings and attaching the starting profile. You need to push off from the bottom border of the wall, which should be covered by the insulation. It is marked using a hydraulic level at each corner of the building. To mark a line, a rope or cord is pulled through the indicated points.

At this level, the installation of the so-called starting profile begins, which will serve as the basis for the lower row of polystyrene foam. It will prevent the foam sheets from moving while the glue has not had time to harden.

For external insulation, the dimensions of the starting profile are determined based on the width of the foam. Fastening is carried out using dowels, the edges are joined using the oblique cut method or using corner joints.

Foam insulation

You can begin directly insulating the house with polystyrene foam 1-3 days after applying the primer (depending on its characteristics). Work is carried out in the direction from the bottom corner upward. If you work from above, then the sheets of polystyrene foam, which are poorly held by fresh glue, will simply slide down.

Important! Experts advise starting external insulation of a house with polystyrene foam from the wall that is least noticeable to others. Even if some shortcomings are made during its pasting, they will certainly be taken into account on the front side.

Each subsequent row requires vertical displacement of the foam slabs relative to each other, according to the same principle as brick is laid. Therefore, the first blocks in odd rows that end up in the corner must be divided in half.

The remaining gaps between the sheets can be sealed with special foam.

It takes about 3-4 days for the glue to completely harden, securely holding the foam on the wall surface.

In order to prevent unnecessary heat loss, special attention during external insulation of walls with foam plastic should be paid to the finishing of slopes.

Additional insulation fastening and external finishing

To improve the fastening of foam sheets to the wall, they are additionally fixed after pasting. For this purpose, special dowels are designed, the head of which does not go deep into the material. The number of additional fastenings is determined by the quality of the wall surface - the smoother it is, the fewer dowels will be required.

The final stage of work on external insulation of the walls of the house with foam plastic is external finishing. It involves grinding the surface with a special tool designed for foam plastic. Next, additional elements are installed on the slopes and corners of the house. For the latter, a perforated corner element with a reinforcing mesh attached to it is suitable. Glue is also used to attach it.

Finally, all that remains is to do facade plaster on insulation, primer and finishing of the wall by painting it or finishing putty.

Rules for installing insulation

So that the insulation work is characterized high quality, you must perform it in compliance with simple rules:

The insulation is applied immediately after applying the glue;
After installing each slab, its location is assessed using a level;
The distance between individual sheets of expanded polystyrene is no more than 2 mm;
The work goes from the bottom to the top of the wall;
In the corner part, dressings are required to prevent long seams.

Insulation is an important stage in completing an apartment renovation or building a private house. Thanks to the insulation of external walls from the influence environment, their service life increases. Heating costs can be reduced by 30–40% depending on the difference in thermal conductivity of the insulation and the facade. Insulating a house with polystyrene foam is the most common way to increase the energy efficiency of a building; we will tell you in detail how to do this correctly below.

An example of insulating a house outside

Example of internal insulation

Insulate from outside or inside

Diagram - location of the dew point when insulating a house outside

Insulating walls with foam plastic from the outside allows you to shift the dew point (0º C) into the insulation, and if you do it yourself, it is also much cheaper. The negative impact of seasonal temperature changes, leading to cooling and heating of the facade, is also eliminated. The difference in internal temperature and outside walls, which slows down the appearance of cracks.

At internal insulation the dew point is also in the insulation, but the front side of the wall is exposed external influence, and completely freezes in winter period. Walls insulated on the inside are destroyed faster than without thermal insulation.

Video: thermal engineering calculation. Dew point

Foam selection

To understand which foam plastic is better for insulating a house, you need to check the technical documentation. The marking should be PSB-S-40, self-extinguishing polystyrene foam. During manufacture, the density can be from 20 to 40 kg per cubic meter. Foam insulation of facades requires high density material.

The minimum possible density is 30 kg/m3, because it is necessary to create a mandatory protective layer.

Check whether the product corresponds to the documentation by breaking off a piece from it. If the edge is uneven, with round capsules, then the foam is of poor quality and is not suitable for outdoor use. At the required density, the granules are of the correct shape and the fracture is even.

Material properties

Expanded polystyrene – boards consisting of granules of foamed styrene. Due to availability internal voids filled with air, has low thermal conductivity. The material is lightweight and environmentally friendly, which is why foam plastic is widely used in insulation.

Specifications insulation (click on the picture to enlarge)

Characteristics (GOST 15588–70):

Thermal conductivity 0.037 W/(m*K).
Density up to 40 kg/m3.
Vapor permeability 0.05.
Temperatures from minus 50º C to plus 70º C.

Disadvantages that need to be taken into account during installation work:

flammability, high flammability, class G4;
attracts rodents with the opportunity to create a warm nest;
low resistance to chlorinated and aromatic hydrocarbons, acetone and carbon disulfide;
low pressure resistance;
Under ultraviolet light it releases toxic substances.

Which houses can and cannot be insulated?

Insulation diagram for a foam block house with description

Insulation wooden house

If the question arises - is it possible to insulate a wooden or foam block house with polystyrene foam, you need to know the main features of these materials. Thus, wooden walls have high vapor permeability, and due to the low permeability of polystyrene foam, moisture begins to accumulate inside the fibers. Therefore, in order to avoid rotting of the timber and dampness inside the house, it is necessary to use another heat insulating material.

A log house is most often insulated with aerated concrete or mineral wool, and siding is placed on top.
A wooden frame house is suitable for external wall insulation; it is only important to waterproof the wood.
A house built from foam blocks requires less insulation thickness due to its own low thermal conductivity. Sometimes it is not advisable to carry out thermal insulation work, if high quality materials are used for construction.

Calculation of foam thickness

Table of insulation thickness depending on the thickness and material of the external walls

The thickness of polystyrene foam for wall insulation must be calculated individually for each building. The final indicator is influenced by the thermal conductivity of the wall material and the region in which the house is built. A thickness that is too small will not perform its functions, and a thickness that is too large will not provide additional benefits. To make the calculation, you need to know the thickness and thermal conductivity of the walls, as well as the foam. You also need to take into account the requirements of SNiP 23-02-2003, which establishes a certain heat transfer resistance coefficient for each region residential buildings.

Recommended insulation thickness depending on region

For a house in the Moscow region (3.16), with red brick walls (0.67), 0.4 m thick, the following calculations are required:

3,16 – (0,4/0,67)=2,57
2,57*0,037=0,095

The resulting value is always rounded up, in this case up to 10 mm.

Preparing for home insulation

Due to the fact that polystyrene foam can be installed on almost any surface, it is used for brick, reinforced concrete and cinder block houses. Wall preparation begins by removing any protruding parts, such as drainage pipes, low tides and elements of external decor. If a large amount of hardened cement mortar protrudes into the brickwork, it should be carefully knocked down. The painted surface is sanded until the paint is completely removed.

One of the stages of preparing a wall is priming

After this, the surface is checked for cracks, unevenness and, if necessary, covered with cement. It is necessary to check the level and evenness of the walls. The difference between one edge and the other should not exceed 1.5–2 cm, especially if finishing will be carried out using siding. When there is a significant difference, a screed is made. Putty is also used for depressions with a diameter greater than 3 cm. A layer of penetrating primer is applied to the finished surface, so work cannot be carried out in winter. This improves the adhesion of the glue to the wall surface and also prevents the development of fungus under the insulation.

Big houses will require the use of a spray bottle to apply the primer, while for smaller ones you can use a brush or roller. After the walls have been completely processed, when the preparatory layer has dried, the installation of ebbs and slopes begins.

Video master class: proper preparation of walls

Methods for installing foam plastic

Adhesive when lightweight foam sheets are used.
Installation of dowels with wide heads that hold the slabs in place and are attached directly to the wall. The main thing to remember is that to minimize temperature transfer you need to use plastic dowels.
A combined method that uses an adhesive solution and fixatives is the most reliable method, eliminating the possibility of peeling off the edges.

To attach to the walls, you will need a special adhesive solution, as well as plastic dowels with a wide head, 5 pieces per sheet. The amount of glue required depends on the manufacturer chosen.

Insulation technology:

In one layer when the slab is full thickness;
In two layers, when the sheets are glued to each other, and have half the required thickness.

How to determine required quantity sheets:

To determine the required number of foam sheets, you need to multiply the height of the walls by their length, and subtract the area of all openings. The resulting value needs to be increased by another 20%, this is done in order to take into account the loss of material for fitting and cutting to fit right size.
For finishing you need to buy a reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass or polyurethane, with cells 5 by 5 mm, 20–30% larger than the insulated area.
The edges of the mesh must overlap, as well as the corners, in order to support the weight of the plaster.
After this they are purchased Decoration Materials. It is important to check that the plaster and glue are suitable for application to the foam.

Installation of foam sheets on the facade

Installation tools:

bucket 2–5 l;
spatulas 8 and 20 cm;
construction mixer;
drill;
building level.

The plate for applying the adhesive composition should be rough; if it is smooth, then brush it with a brush with metal bristles. The glue is diluted according to the instructions, mixed with a mixer, the finished consistency should be thick enough to support the weight of the slab. But if the mixture is too dry, it will not adhere the foam properly. In order to understand what the consumption will be, mix 50–100 g of dry glue, gradually adding water.

The first stage of installation is the starting profile

Installation begins with attaching the bottom plank or corner to the wall, at a level of 20 cm from the edge of the ground or blind area. The profile will serve as support while attaching the slabs to the wall, and after drying, allow the foam to support more weight of the plaster.

The finished adhesive mixture is applied along the perimeter to the rough side of the polystyrene foam, retreating from the edge by 3-4 cm, after which several patches are made in the middle of the sheet and applied to the wall. The surface of the sheet should be covered by approximately 40%. The first row starts from the bottom corner of the house, the next one is laid so that the edges fall in the middle of the previous row. If the walls are insulated in several layers, then the second layer is applied so as to overlap the joints of the previous one.

Apply glue and glue

If there is a gap between the insulation boards of more than 3 mm, it is sealed with polyurethane foam, the protruding parts of which are cleaned off after hardening. The same is done with the protrusions of the sheets. Apply to seams and fasteners adhesive composition, to eliminate unevenness.

Video: the result of insulating the facade of a house with foam plastic after 2 years

Final protective and finishing work

Foam plastic does not tolerate direct sun rays, therefore it is necessary to carry out external work to isolate it from the external environment. To do this, a special adhesive mixture is applied to the insulation, and a fiberglass mesh is placed on top of it, with an overlap of 6–7 cm. To strengthen the corners, the reinforced mesh should overlap next wall by 10–15 cm. If heavy finishing is planned, then the corners are strengthened metal corner. After completely covering the house with mesh, the layer is allowed to dry for 1–2 days.

When the mesh is fixed, it is sanded and primed. While the primer dries, fix the roof drainage system. After the primer has been absorbed, putty is applied in a layer of 3–4 mm, or external plaster, and allow the layer to dry for 3–4 days.

Insulating a house with polystyrene foam is quite simple; the main thing is to choose substances compatible with the material so as not to dissolve the granules. It is also important to create a finishing layer that protects polystyrene foam from exposure to the sun.

Detailed video instructions

Do you want to get cozy and warm housing, the temperature in which does not depend on the vagaries of the weather? Then you should insulate the walls outside with polystyrene foam. Don't know where to start and how to get started with this work? In this case, study this article - it will give you answers to your questions.

First, let's get acquainted with the material that will be discussed in the article. Polystyrene foam is polymer insulation, produced in the form of white slabs. The material has a pronounced granular structure, with each individual grain containing many voids filled with gas. It is their presence that gives the foam excellent thermal insulation qualities. You can see other properties of the material in the table.

Table. Foam plastic - main characteristics.

Important! When buying polystyrene foam, pay attention to the fact that it has fire retardant additives, and that the pores in the grains contain non-flammable carbon dioxide.

The advantages of polystyrene foam include:

low cost;
good thermal insulation qualities;
low weight;
ease of processing and installation;
unattractive to bacteria and fungus;
high durability.

As for the disadvantages of polystyrene foam, there are two of them. The first is the flammability of the material. The second is low vapor permeability, which, in the event of an error in the design or installation of insulation, can lead to the appearance of mold on the main wall.

The main task performed by insulation is to shift the dew point outward. Let's consider three options for buildings.

In the first case, there is only a wall without any insulation. The dew point is located inside the material, between its outer and internal sides there is a significant temperature difference. As a result, a lot of heat escapes through the wall, condensation forms in the house, and the service life of the material decreases significantly due to dampness.
In the second case, the insulation is located from the inside. The dew point moves to the area between it and the wall. Heat loss is significantly reduced, but dampness remains. There is also a risk of mold growing between the insulation and the wall.
In the third case, the insulation is located outside, the dew point moves behind the wall of the house. The latter is now not subject to dampness and does not lose heat.

Prices for foam plastic

Styrofoam

Preparing external walls for insulation

Construction work related to insulating the facade of a house with foam plastic begins with preparing the walls. They need to be cleaned, leveled, primed, etc. All these steps are described in more detail in the step-by-step instructions below.

Step 1. To work at heights exceeding human height, construct scaffolding. You can make them yourself from timber and boards available on the site, but it is safer to use factory-made products.

Scaffolding prices

Scaffolding

Step 2. Inspect the walls for various defects. Seal cracks and holes, sagging mortar chip it off. Prepare openings for water and gas pipelines and other utilities.

Step 3. Prime with primer deep penetration walls. Since the house in the example is made of aerated concrete blocks, two layers will be required. For the first time, the primer must be diluted by adding water from a third to half of the total volume.

Important! Primer treatment in two layers is necessary not only for aerated concrete, but also for other porous materials, such as foam blocks and sand-lime brick.

Step 4. Apply a second coat of primer, but not diluted with water.

Once preparation is complete, proceed with installation. polystyrene foam boards. In this case, their mounting on the wall will be combined - both glue and dowels with “umbrellas” are used.

The process itself will include:

laying expanded polystyrene for insulation on ordinary walls of the house;
on window and door openings;
on the corners;
to the space under the roof of the cottage.

For all processes from this list, separate step-by-step instructions have been compiled, which can be found in the subsections of the article presented below.

Working with regular walls

Let's start insulating the outside of the house with polystyrene foam. Let's start with a relatively simple one - installing the first row of polystyrene foam boards and laying them on ordinary walls.

Step 1. Measure how smooth the walls of the house you are insulating are and identify any differences in thickness. To do this, use either a stretched thread or a laser level.

Step 2. Place a mark at the bottom of the wall and draw a line from it along which the first row of polystyrene foam boards will be laid.

Important! In this case, when insulating the walls from the outside, the foam is laid directly on the foundation - it is level enough for this. In other situations, install a special aluminum support profile before installing polystyrene foam boards.

Step 3. Mix the glue to install the polystyrene foam insulation. To do this, dilute the dry mixture in water. Choose proportions based on the instructions printed on the glue package. Stir the solution using a mixer or drill with an appropriate attachment, working at low speed.

Step 4. Prepare polystyrene foam boards for the first row of insulation. In this case, a cutout is created in each of them, as in the diagram below. Cut polystyrene foam boards using a special hot table nichrome thread. If such equipment is not available, use a fine-tooth hacksaw.

Step 5. Apply adhesive solution to the first block. To begin, make a thin strip around the perimeter by pressing the trowel into the polystyrene foam. Then add more solution, bringing the layer thickness to 25-30 mm. Apply several glue dots in the center of the block, their number depends on the area of the insulation element.

Applying a second layer, more voluminous. Be careful when working with it - the glue should not get on the ends of the foam block

Prices for Ceresit glue

Ceresit glue

Step 6. Perform a test installation of the polystyrene foam block. The purpose of the event is to find out what proportion of the total area is occupied by glue. To do this, lean the block against the wall and then set it back. Depending on the thickness of the insulation layer, the adhesive contact area should be 40-60% of the total.

Step 7 On paper or directly on the wall, prepare marks along which the polystyrene foam blocks will be placed. Lay the slabs according to the same principle as brickwork - the top row is shifted towards the bottom row so that the vertical seams do not coincide. The permissible distance is from 15 cm, otherwise the seams will become “cold bridges”. You can see the layout of the foam blocks in the images below.

Step 8 Proceed to laying the first block - apply the adhesive composition to it as shown earlier, lean it against the marked place and lean it against it. Then level the position of the product. A thread stretched along the upper edge of the first row of blocks and a regular building level will help you with this.

Important! Use small pieces of foam as pads to support the first row of blocks.

Step 9 Using the same principle as in the previous step, lay the second, third and subsequent blocks of the first row.

Step 10 Then lay the remaining rows of foam insulation. You can read about how to do this at corners and openings in the following subsections of the article. Join the blocks tightly together, fill the gaps with polystyrene foam glue, polystyrene foam or thin pieces material.

Step 11 After the glue or polyurethane foam that you filled the joints between the blocks has dried, cut off the excess with a construction knife.

Step 12 Using the rule, determine how even the insulation layer is. Sand the protruding areas with a special grater.

Insulation of corners

Installation of insulation on the corners occurs according to the following scheme - on one side the block extends beyond the wall boundary at a distance equal to the thickness of the block installed on the second side. On the next row, the order of arrangement of foam insulation elements changes to exactly the opposite. Using a similar principle, blocks are installed on internal corners. For a better idea, check out the images below.

Now let's look at how foam blocks are actually installed on the corners of a building.

Step 1. Mark one of the foam blocks. Select the part that will extend beyond the wall at the corner and the part that will be glued to the surface.

Step 2. Apply the previously mixed solution to the part of the block that is glued to the wall at the corner. Perform this operation carefully - the glue should not get on another part of the product that you previously separated using markings.

Step 3. Place the block against the wall so that the glue adheres to the surface. Align horizontally and vertically, and be sure to use a building level.

Prices for building levels

Construction levels

Step 4. Measure how long a block you will need to install on the other side of the corner. Cut off the excess with a fine-toothed hacksaw.

Step 5. Apply glue to the back surface of the foam and install the block on the other side of the corner. Connect it tightly to the product that you installed several operations ago.

Step 6. Cut off the protruding part of the first block using a hacksaw. At the end you should have a right angle without any defects. If there is a gap between the blocks, then seal it special glue for polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. Using the same principle as outlined in this instruction, work with the remaining external and internal corners of the building.

Insulation of window/door openings and walls next to them

First, let's look at the principle by which walls are insulated near a doorway. Your main concern here will be to ensure there is enough space to open and close. There are two options for installing the frame and door.

The door is installed flush with outside insulation layer. In this case, you need special fasteners for it and supports in the form of channels. You can see their installation diagrams in the image below.
The door is installed flush with the main wall. As a result, it turns out to be “recessed” in the insulation. To ensure normal opening of the door, the polystyrene foam along the edges of the opening has to be filed.

Let's present the process of laying insulation near a doorway in the form of step-by-step instructions. In this case, the option of installing the frame and the door itself at a level with the main wall is being considered.

Step 1. Select the required number of blocks and saw them off the edge with a regular hacksaw with fine teeth.

Step 2. Install a frame in the doorway if this has not been done previously.

Step 3. Degrease the surface of the door frame.

Step 4. Prepare the required number of profiles for thermal insulation of openings. Unpack them, measure and cut them. In this case, the edges of the profile adjacent to the corners of the openings must be cut at an angle of 45°.

Step 5. Remove the protective tape from the adhesive layer of the profile and secure it to one side of the opening. Make sure that the profile fits tightly to the surface.

Step 6. Using the same principle, glue the profiles to the other sides of the opening. In the corners, tightly join them to each other with cuts made at an angle of 45° at one of the previous stages of work.

Step 7 Prepare strips of fiberglass mesh. Their width should be equal to the thickness of the insulation layer plus 10 cm for fastening to the main wall. In this case, the strip is cut from a single roll of mesh.

Step 8 Along the perimeter of the opening, apply a 10 cm wide strip of adhesive mixture to the wall.

Step 9 Place one of the edges of the fiberglass mesh strip against the glue applied in the previous step. Press the material against it, literally “drown it.”

Step 10 Apply another layer of glue on top of the part of the mesh leaning against the wall.

Step 11 Repeat the previous mesh operations for the other sides of the doorway.

Step 12 Install foam blocks with cut edges around the perimeter of the opening.

The situation with window openings is approximately similar - the block itself with frame and glass can be installed both in the depth of the opening and at its edge. In the first case, a gap appears between the outer layer of insulation and the window, which is closed with narrow strips of foam plastic. They are laid on glue in the inner surfaces of the opening.

In the second option, the window is mounted on the edge of the opening, with the frame adjacent to the insulation layer on external wall. This method is more effective in terms of thermal insulation.

It is also worth saying that the joints of polystyrene foam blocks should not coincide with the joint of the window block with the opening. Therefore, along the perimeter, insulation is installed in the form of products with L-shaped cutouts. There are two options for how to do this, and they are presented in the images below.

The process of insulating walls with foam plastic near window openings in many ways resembles that for a doorway. Here are step-by-step instructions.

Step 1. Install window unit, move it closer to the edge of the opening and secure it well there.

Step 2. Remove protective film from the frame and degrease the latter.

Step 3. Glue a special profile around the perimeter of the frame.

Step 4. Apply a 10 mm wide strip of glue along the perimeter of the profile to the wall.

Step 5. Using the glue applied in the previous step, attach a strip of fiberglass mesh according to the same principles as for the doorway.

Step 6. Cut out the blocks in accordance with the diagrams shown in the images in this section of the article. Secure around the perimeter of the opening.

Important! When fixing the foam under the window opening, make the slight slope necessary to install the ebb.

As for the space under the roof, this is different from working with ordinary walls consists in the fact that it is necessary to first cut blocks with different and complex shapes from foam plastic.

Installation of mounting umbrellas on foam plastic

For a more reliable connection of the insulation layer to the main wall, fastening “umbrellas”, also known as disc dowels, are used.

Step 1. Determine the length of the disc dowel you need. It consists of the thickness of the insulation layer (in this case it is 200 mm), the adhesive layer (15 mm), the length of the spacer part of the dowel (60 mm) and another 20 mm reserve. Also decide which of the diagrams shown in the image below will be used to install the fasteners.

Step 2. Unpack the disc dowels and check whether the product parameters match those you need.

Step 3. Prepare a drill with a hole depth limiter, adjust the latter to the value you need.

Step 4. Mark the locations of the disc dowels and drill holes there.

Step 5. Insert the foot of the dowel into the hole so that the head is flush with the surface of the foam. Then use a special attachment on the drill and tighten the spacer part of the fastener, and then close it with the protective cap.

In some disc dowels, the spacer element is not screwed in, but is hammered. You can see an example of how to work with them in the images below.

Some builders believe that disc dowels in foam insulation are “cold bridges.” They deal with this problem in the following way: using a special cutter, they cut out a cylindrical recess in polystyrene foam, insert fasteners there and fix it. The disc dowel is then covered with the foam cap that was cut out earlier.

Prices for popular hammer drill models

Hammers

Video - Insulating the façade of a cottage with polystyrene foam

Insulation reinforcement

The installation of expanded polystyrene blocks does not complete the process of insulating the walls from the outside - the material must be protected using reinforcing mesh and plaster mixture.

Step 1. Prepare a plaster-adhesive mixture from dry powder and water. Choose proportions based on the recipe printed on the package. Mix the solution with a construction mixer.

Step 2. Start with windows and doors. Apply a thin layer of plaster-adhesive mixture to the inner surface of their openings and level it.

Step 3. Reinforcing mesh laid on the inner surface of the openings in one of the previous sections article, press it to the adhesive mixture and drown it in it. Smooth the entire top with a rectangular trowel.

Step 4. In exactly the same way as in the previous operation, press the mesh belonging to the previously installed profile to the adhesive layer and press it down.

Step 5. Repeat the previous three steps on all sides of the window opening.

Step 6. At the corners near the openings, apply strips of adhesive mixture at an angle of 45°. Then lay the reinforcing mesh on them and smooth it with a trowel. Such areas near the openings are called “kerchiefs”.

Step 7 Measure the corner profile of the required length. Apply a layer of adhesive mixture along the outer perimeter of the window, then lean the profile with mesh against it and the inner surface of the opening and smooth it with a rectangular trowel.

Step 8 Using the same principle, install corner profiles on other surfaces of the window opening.

Step 9 Attach a small rectangle or square of reinforcing mesh to the inner corners of the opening, straighten it and smooth it with the adhesive mixture.

Step 10 Repeat steps two through nine for each individual window and door opening.

Step 11 Apply the adhesive solution around the perimeter of the house to the bottom of the insulation. Then attach the drip profile there. Install it so that there are no air cavities between it and the insulation. Control the process using a building level.

Step 12 Apply another layer of plaster over the drip profile mesh and smooth it with a rectangular trowel.

Step 13 Using the same principles as outlined above, install the corner profile - apply an adhesive layer, attach the product to it, press it into the mesh and smooth everything on top.

Step 14 Now proceed to reinforce the entire surface of the walls. Make sections from a roll of mesh with a length corresponding to the height of the insulated walls of the house.

Step 15 Apply a layer of plaster-adhesive mixture on top of the polystyrene foam and smooth it with a notched trowel.

Step 16 Place a reinforcing mesh sheet on top of the adhesive layer, press it down and cover it with another layer of mortar on top. Smooth out everything carefully - unevenness and cavities with air are unacceptable.

Step 17 Lay the next piece of mesh side by side in exactly the same way. There must be an overlap of at least 100 mm between it and the previous one.

Step 18 Let the adhesive mixture dry a little (but not completely!) and scrape off any irregularities.

Step 19 Using the rule, search for concavities in the adhesive layer applied over the insulation. Then level them out by adding a little more mixture in the right places.

Step 20. Using the finally hardened adhesive mixture, level the surface again - using putty.

The easiest way to insulate a house is to cover it with polystyrene foam. The material is inexpensive, installation is easy to do on your own, and the energy-saving effect is obvious. And in order to protect such cladding from the harmful effects of the environment, you need to choose for it suitable covering. Read more.

After the putty has hardened, the insulation of the walls from the outside with polystyrene foam can be considered complete. Next, all you have to do is apply the final decorative finish in accordance with your tastes and preferences.

In order for the house to be warm, it needs to be insulated correctly, you should take into account not only the thickness of the foam, but also the technology itself, following which you can achieve the best results in insulating the external walls of your facade. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the detailed step by step instructions supplemented with photo.

Before starting insulation work, it is necessary to carefully check and prepare the base. Walls intended for gluing foam plastic must be stable, dry, free of dirt, dust, old peeling paint and other contaminants that reduce the adhesion of the adhesive solution. The ideal way to clean walls is to use pressurized water or mechanical method(for example, using wire brushes or grinding machines). In case of large accumulations of moss and algae, the use of biocides is recommended.

Leveling the base

When assessing the foundation, monitoring its condition is very important. Using a hammer, you can find a dull sound indicating peeling of the plaster. You must remove such a fragment and plaster the resulting cavity. It is also recommended to beat off the plaster from the outside of window and doorways, thus allowing the insulation of slopes with foam plastic with a thickness of 3 to 5 centimeters. If there are coatings on the base, such as paint, you should check its load-bearing capacity by scratching it with a sharp tool or gluing it with tape. If partial separation occurs old paint, the base should be considered weak and must be thoroughly cleaned. If unevenness or depressions larger than 10 mm occur, they must be leveled using a leveling solution.

Surface primer

Dusty walls should be primed with a deep penetration primer before gluing the foam.

Checking the strength of the base

If you doubt the strength of the wall surface, you should conduct an adhesion test. For this purpose, we glue 8-10 samples of polystyrene foam measuring 10 x 10 cm in different places onto a properly prepared surface. To glue foam samples, a solution of a 10 mm thick layer of glue is used. Foam samples with the applied solution should be pressed to specially designated areas on the wall surface. After a minimum of 3 days, an attempt should be made to manually tear off the glued foam. If a rupture occurs in polystyrene foam, this indicates sufficient strength of the base and adhesion of the adhesive. If samples of polystyrene foam come off the wall surface along with a layer of adhesive mass, this means that the walls have not been properly prepared or that upper layer does not have sufficient strength.

Installation of the base profile

Before gluing the foam boards, it is necessary to secure the base profiles. To do this, you need to determine the height of the base using a tapping cord and make marks on the base. Then secure the profiles with dowels - on average 3 pieces are used. on linear meter. If the wall is uneven, pads should be used. It is recommended to connect profiles using special mounting clips. Plinth profiles in addition to determining the level and facilitating installation thermal insulation materials, are responsible for protecting thermal insulation from open fire, dampness and destruction, insects, birds or rodents.

When installing base profiles on the internal or external corner of a building, you should pay special attention to the correct installation (see photo). It is also possible to use special connectors.

Preparation of the adhesive solution

Before gluing the foam, you should properly prepare the adhesive solution. To glue the foam, use an appropriate adhesive solution. Mix the contents of the bag thoroughly with about 5.5 liters of clean, cold water using a low-speed drill with a suitable stirrer. After obtaining a homogeneous mass without lumps, wait about 10 minutes and mix again before using. The prepared solution is suitable for use for a period of 2.5 to 3 hours. During work, it is necessary to periodically stir the solution approximately every 30 minutes. It is not allowed to add water to the prepared solution in order to “improve” its consistency.

Applying the solution to polystyrene foam

Depending on the type of base, the adhesive solution can be applied to the foam in several ways. In the case of insulation of a flat surface, the adhesive solution is applied to the slabs using a notched grater with a tooth size of 10-12 mm. In other cases, the solution should be applied using the “circumference-point” method, i.e., using a trowel along the contour of the slab in a strip about . 3-4 cm and additional cakes in the amount of 3-8 pieces. The size of the cakes should depend on their quantity. The amount of glue located on the edge should be enough so that after pressing the slab, the adhesive solution does not go beyond its boundaries. It is necessary to ensure that the adhesive solution covers at least 40% of the surface of the slab (see the photo for the correct application of glue to the foam).

Bonding foam boards around window and door openings

Near window and door openings, slabs should be selected (cut) so that the horizontal and vertical seams between the slabs do not coincide with the edges of the holes (see photo). This arrangement will prevent cracks in the finish in the future.

Control of the plane of glued foam plastic

Please note that during the process of gluing the foam, the level and evenness of the entire surface is maintained using a plumb line or level.

Filling gaps between slabs of thermal insulation material

Gaps between the boards of more than 2 mm should be filled with strips cut from foam boards. In case of gaps smaller than 4 mm in systems using polystyrene foam boards, it is also possible to fill them with polyurethane foam. It is not allowed to fill the joints with mortar, which is used for gluing slabs, due to the occurrence of cold bridges, as well as the risk of cracks appearing along the joints of the slabs.

Leveling the surface of glued foam plastic

Foam boards after gluing must present a flat surface. Protruding irregularities (bumps) should be sanded with a special grater or sandpaper. The surface of the slabs can be sanded no earlier than 72 hours from the moment they are glued.

Fastening foam plastic using a dowel umbrella

If it is necessary to use additional protection of the foam from tearing, i.e. when the tensile strength of the base is less than 0.08 MPa or the height of the building exceeds 20 m, mechanical connections, a dowel with a plastic or metal umbrella, should be used.

Drilling holes and installing dowel umbrella

Installation of dowels can begin no earlier than 3 days after gluing the polystyrene foam boards, that is, after the adhesive solution has set.

It is believed that the depth of penetration of the rod deep into the wall should be:

minimum 5-6 cm - dense base (concrete, brick, sand-lime brick or stone);
minimum 8-9 cm - porous base (aerated concrete, hollow brick and shell rock).

The number of dowels for foam plastic is from 4 to 6 pcs/m². When determining the length of the dowels, you need to take into account the thickness old plaster, adhesive layer and thickness thermal insulation material. It should be borne in mind that, despite the load-bearing capacity of the foundation, in the case of buildings with a height of more than 20 m, mechanical connections must be used. The edge zones of the building, where the greatest forces caused by the wind occur, i.e., from 1 to 2 m from the edge, the insulation project should provide for an increased number of dowels in these places.

Installation of dowel umbrellas

The dowel rods should not protrude beyond the plane of the umbrella. Ideal option To prevent the formation of cold bridges, milling holes to a depth of 2 cm into which the dowel-umbrella is recessed is recessed. Then the space above it should be covered with the remaining foam. The wrong thing to do is to sink the umbrella with a hammer. Excessive deepening of the umbrella in the material can lead to the appearance of cracks (rupture) of the umbrellas, which as a result weakens the load-bearing capacity of the system.

Preparation of glue for foam reinforcement

To perform a layer, mesh reinforced fiberglass in a polystyrene foam system, it is necessary to use an adhesive solution designed for reinforcing foam boards. The entire contents of the bag should be thoroughly mixed with an appropriate amount of clean water using a low-speed drill equipped with a stirrer. Then the mass should be kept for about 10 minutes and mixed again. It is recommended to periodically stir the solution every 30 minutes. Depending on the temperature, the solution is usable for approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. You cannot add water to the prepared solution in order to “improve” its consistency.

The glue is applied to the foam in a continuous layer about 3mm thick. To apply the solution, use a notched trowel with a tooth size of 10-12 mm. The adhesive solution is applied in vertical strips the width of a fiberglass mesh.

Embedding fiberglass reinforcement mesh

After applying the adhesive solution to the mesh, it is necessary to carefully press it down, starting from the top, pressing it along its entire width. The mesh should be evenly stretched over the entire surface, without waves, humps or bulges. To ensure proper functioning of the layer, the reinforcing mesh must be recessed in the middle of the thickness of the solution. It is not allowed to attach reinforcing mesh directly to umbrellas or glue applied with a trowel. Immersion of the mesh too deep or too shallow can lead to cracking and the formation of humps in the reinforcement layer. The thickness of the solution layer when using one mesh should be from 3 to 5 mm.

When embedding the mesh into the mortar layer, you should pay attention to ensure that the vertical and horizontal edges of the mesh overlap each other by at least 10 cm. It is necessary to strictly follow the rules for wrapping the mesh on slopes and window sills and on wall corners - in the case of using protective corners without mesh - move the mesh to the adjacent wall by about 15 cm. If the walls of the building are subject to impacts and mechanical damage, given their location, it is necessary to apply a double fiberglass mesh along the entire height of the walls of the first floor. After the adhesive solution in which the first layer of fiberglass mesh was immersed has hardened, a second layer of solution should be applied and another layer of mesh should be sunk in it. The thickness of the layer reinforced with a double layer of mesh should be 6-8 mm.

The mesh must be carefully filled, since the leveling of the surface affects the final appearance of the facade. If irregularities occur, they must be sanded with sandpaper - otherwise they will be visible in the structure of the thin-layer plaster. Grinding can be done when the mortar layer is not yet too hard.

Application of paint and primer

After the reinforced layer has dried, no earlier than 3 days after its completion (this period can be extended in case of unfavorable weather conditions) in order to ensure optimal adhesion of the decorative plaster to the base, you can begin to apply primer paint. Work should be carried out at a temperature not lower than +5°C and not higher than +25°C, without precipitation. The primer should be applied using a brush or roller, remembering to apply it evenly over the entire surface. It is not recommended to dilute the primer paint due to the deterioration of its properties.

Application of decorative plaster

After the primer paint has dried, but not earlier than 24 hours after its application, you can begin applying decorative plaster. To prepare it, the entire contents of the package should be thoroughly mixed with approximately 5.0 liters of clean water until a homogeneous consistency is obtained. The prepared solution is left for 10 minutes and mixed again (without adding water). The solution prepared in this way is suitable for use for no longer than 1 hour.

Application of thin layer plasters

During the plastering works the requirements of the appropriate weather conditions must be observed, both during application and during the drying of the plaster: avoid rain, strong winds and strong sunlight. Optimal temperature The air temperature should be between 5°C and 25°C and the relative humidity should not exceed 75%. Due to large temperature differences between day and night, plastering work is not recommended between November and March. In case of danger due to a temperature drop below 5°C, the drying time of the plaster (at least 48 hours from the moment of its application) should also not be carried out.

If these requirements are met, you can begin applying plaster to the pre-primed wall.

Apply plaster using a steel float thin layer by grain thickness. Then you should smooth the surface, collecting excess material. After some time, depending on the conditions encountered during the application process, we rub the plaster using a plastic float. In order to avoid a visible contact line between the fresh and already hardened layer of plaster, it is necessary to ensure a sufficient number of workers and scaffolding. When applying decorative plaster, avoid interruptions during the application of the layer and adhere to the main rule “wet on wet”. Due to the increased absorption of thermal and ultraviolet radiation on facades located to the south and west, it is not recommended to use dark colors; the number of such colors on the surface of the facade should not exceed 10%.

Rubbing plaster

Rubbing the plaster should begin if the plaster mass does not stick to the plastic float. This time depends on the air and soil temperature, relative humidity and thickness of the material. To complete the texture, you need to use a plastic trowel and, depending on the structure of the plaster, we give it a suitable model. One thing to keep in mind is to press the grater with the same force while holding it at a constant angle.

Plaster type "bark beetle"

Plaster with a “bark beetle” type structure depends on the movements of the trowel. You can draw vertical, horizontal, diagonal or circular indentations of a certain width depending on the size of the crumb.

Painting plaster

The paint can be applied by brush, roller or mechanically by spraying, always in two layers. It is allowed to dilute the first layer of paint, especially if work is carried out at temperatures close to the maximum permissible (+25°C). To dilute silicate paints, use a special primer (solvent) in an amount of up to 5%, and other paints can be diluted clean water in amounts up to 10%.

In the case of the second layer, the paint should be used undiluted. During work, you should adhere to appropriate weather conditions, i.e. avoid large amounts of sunlight, strong winds and precipitation. The optimum air temperature should be between 5°C and 25°C and the relative humidity should not exceed 75%

To better retain heat in the house in winter, they usually insulate the outside walls with polystyrene foam with their own hands (a video on the topic will clearly show how this can be done correctly and easily). This is not a mandatory operation, which is started only in cases where the cost of heating a private cottage is too high or the corners of the apartment freeze, despite Good work convectors.

To efficiently insulate external walls, other materials are also suitable, but polystyrene foam has useful feature: It can be plastered with conventional mixtures. This makes repairs significantly cheaper compared to installing thermal insulation from roll materials, which involve siding cladding.

When choosing sheet heat-insulating material, you need to pay attention to its name: extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is considered the best. This is a modern, fairly durable and lightweight barrier to frost.

There are slabs similar to it - PSB-S-15 foam.

But, compared to EPS, this material breaks and crumbles easily, and it is very difficult to put plaster on it. Extruded polystyrene foam has a number of advantages:

strength and hardness of the slabs (they can even be laid on the floor);
very low thermal conductivity (retains heat well);
low cost;
simple installation method;
the lightness of the material allows you not to load the wall of the building and install the insulation yourself.

Sometimes EPS boards come on sale with selected quarters on the edges of the sheet.

This is very convenient option, since the joints receive additional impermeability.

In some cases, it is possible to buy slabs with corrugated surfaces applied to them. In this case, the process of gluing and plastering the thermal insulation is greatly simplified.

But most often, EPS can be purchased as ordinary slab material 30-50 mm thick with smooth edges and planes.

Selection of mounting mixtures and related materials

The slabs are installed using special adhesive mixtures. The packaging of this material should be marked “for expanded polystyrene (EPS).” When purchasing, you should clarify whether this mixture is intended only for gluing insulation or it can also be used for a protective layer during further finishing. As a rule, there is relevant information about this on the packaging.

Most renowned manufacturer Similar compositions are produced by Ceresit, but other manufacturers may also be available. The quality of the mixtures is approximately the same.

If you purchased only a mixture for gluing, then you will subsequently need a composition to protect the slabs from environmental influences. It is universal, installation can be done with it, but glue is much cheaper. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase 2 types of dry mixtures:

adhesive composition;
protective grout for EPS.

Polyurethane foam can also be useful for filling the joints between the plates. When purchasing materials, it is best to buy it from the same trade organization where you purchase thermal insulation and glue.

To prepare and subsequently finish the walls, you will need the following materials:

cement, sand, PVA glue - to eliminate defects on concrete or brick facade and for plaster;
primer;
wide brush (brush), spray or roller;
fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
plastic or tin corner with corrugation - for leveling the corners of the house;
starting profile for insulation with connecting elements;
special dowels with a wide cap (“fungus”);
perforator;
spatulas.

When choosing dowels, you need to take into account that their leg must be at least 5 cm longer than the thickness of the EPS sheet. If the EPS boards have a flat surface, then a toothed roller (for drywall) or a brush with metal bristles will be useful.

We go through the foam joints with a special rough brush

Preparatory work

Before you start insulating walls with extruded polystyrene foam, it is advisable to level the surface. It doesn't have to be perfectly smooth, but you shouldn't leave too many differences in height. Deviations of 1-2 cm are acceptable, but potholes and bulging areas must be leveled using plaster and a hammer drill. They do this in order to increase the strength of the coating: if deep and extensive voids remain under the EPS, the slab can be broken during operation.

Previously painted and plastered walls should be inspected for peeling layers of coating. It is better to remove everything that may fall off during installation of insulation, and fill the recesses with cement mortar. If the plastered wall crumbles in the form of small crumbs, then it is also advisable to remove the latter completely or putty the damaged areas with cement mortar with the addition of PVA glue (100-150 ml per 10 liters of putty). Dry the leveled wall and prime it with a compound for tile adhesive or plaster (deep penetration primer with quartz filler).

It is better not to skimp on this material, since the adhesion of the adhesive mass to the wall of the house depends on the quality of the soil, which will affect the strength of the insulating layer.

Even lightweight EPS boards, under the influence of gravity, can slide down the wall by about 10 cm until the adhesive sets. For support you need to install a starting profile.

This is a metal part that is attached to the very bottom of the insulated wall. We fasten it with dowels when finishing a stone building, or with nails (screws) if it is wooden.

Polystyrene board installation technology

Extruded polystyrene foam can have a corrugated surface and does not require pre-treatment. But most often the slabs are flat, and they require preparation in the form of roughening for better adhesion to the adhesive layer. You can do this on the entire batch of purchased sheets at once, so as not to be distracted later, or you can prepare material while working. The owner decides which method to choose, focusing on his own pace of work and own wish. Both surfaces of the slab can be roughened using a toothed roller or a brush with metal bristles.

The technology for installing polystyrene foam on the wall is carried out in the following sequence:

Window slopes should also be insulated. This part of the cladding is performed before laying the slabs on the wall. Before starting work, you need to inspect the window sill (low tide) and fill the void under it with cement, glue or foam, if there is one. Otherwise, moisture will condense in this niche, saturating the insulating layer or entering the room. Cut the sheets so that after gluing they protrude 1 cm above the wall near the slope. Apply glue to the wall. If it is smooth, it can be applied with a notched trowel. Press the cut sheets with your hands and smooth them, giving them the opportunity to adhere well to the adhesive layer.
The correct way to insulate the outside with polystyrene foam involves gluing and nailing the boards. You cannot choose just one of the methods. Therefore, insulation with extruded polystyrene foam is carried out in 2 stages. It is best to apply the glue to the wall in separate sections of the approximate size of the sheet, leveling out possible differences in height by eye. Along the intended perimeter of the EPS board, you need to put a strip of glue on the wall.
Place the slab against the wall and press it over the entire surface so that the glue spreads in a thin layer. Attach the remaining slabs.
After gluing, you need to let the wall dry for 3 days. After this, the slabs are additionally reinforced with dowels with a cap. Holes for them need to be drilled at the joints (2 corners and 1 side of adjacent elements). In addition, a hole is made in the center of each EPS sheet.
The finished wall needs to be inspected and the joints identified, where there are gaps between the polystyrene foam plates for wall insulation. If their width is more than 5 mm, then you need to fill the joint with foam. If necessary, you can place an EPS strip inside: with a width of less than 5 mm, it is quite difficult to foam the gap, since neither the tube nor the gun will fit into the hole.

Insulation of walls with polystyrene foam should be done by laying slabs with offset seams, so as not to join 4 adjacent corners at one point at once. If rain is expected, the EPS must be protected from moisture until it is completely covered with plaster.

In some cases, wall insulation (expanded polystyrene) has to be glued in 2 layers. Installation of the second layer is carried out using the same technology. Since the surface is already quite smooth, you can apply the glue with a notched trowel. The sheets must be positioned so that they overlap the joints of the lower level.

Laying protective composition

To do this, you need flexible corners with perforations (metal or plastic). Even arched or other complex openings can be decorated with such details. Using a spatula, apply the mixture to both sides of the corner and glue the corner to it. Fill the narrow gaps between the slabs with a protective compound (if they could not be foamed).

Apply a thin layer finishing mixture on a small section of the wall. It dries quickly, so you need to determine your capabilities in advance and cut the mesh into appropriate pieces. In order to make a good joint between the individual pieces, you need to spread the mixture so that there are free edges of the fiberglass 7-10 cm wide. Place the mesh on the layer of the composition and iron it with a spatula from the center to the edge. Having glued the first piece, apply protective compound for the next one, starting from the free edges, and glue the next piece with an overlap.

Dry completely protective composition with reinforcing mesh (12-24 hours).

After this, sand the wall with sandpaper. Finally, apply a leveling layer of the same mixture to the wall to protect the EPS. The thickness depends on the accuracy of the previous layer, but should not be less than 2-3 mm. A wide spatula is needed for leveling. The mixture is applied in one continuous motion from bottom to top. The tool must be held at a slight angle to the wall surface.

Dry the surfaces for about 24 hours and rub their surface with sandpaper. For this stage, it is better to take the sandpaper that has already been used to process the mesh layer. It is important not to leave this work for more than 4 days, since the cement gradually gains strength and grouting will be very difficult to complete.

Finally, the walls are primed and the surfaces are plastered. Using wall insulation (polystyrene or foam plastic), you can make any type of decorative plaster for facade work: with or without texture.