One of the problems in a private home is heat leakage through the ceiling. If in apartment building above warm apartment, then in our case above the head only cold attic, or even just a street. How to insulate the ceiling from the inside in a private house if, for some reason, it is not possible to do this from the attic?
Selection of materials
Let's start with the insulation structure. It will be multi-layered; we have to do it sequentially:
- External steam and waterproofing insulation;
- Lathing for filling with heat-insulating material;
- Actually thermal insulation;
- Internal vapor barrier;
- Finally, the ceiling must be hemmed with any finishing material.
Vapor barrier
Glassine is most often used as a vapor barrier - inexpensive material with quite acceptable consumer properties. However, if you need additional insurance against leaks - best choice there will be good old plastic wrap. It is absolutely impermeable to water and has a service life of at least fifty years.
Vapor barrier sheets are laid with overlap. If the ceiling is sloped (for example, in the attic), the film is laid in rows from bottom to top so that condensation cannot flow under the lower sheets. It is better to additionally seal the inner layer of vapor barrier with tape. This will ensure absolute tightness.
Why are all these measures needed? The worst enemy of mineral and ecowool insulation is condensation. Wet mineral wool greatly reduces its thermal insulation qualities. And the humidity indoors in winter is always much higher than outside (see).
Please note: if we insulate from below reinforced concrete floor, upper layer no vapor barrier needed. Between the moisture-impervious concrete and the insulation, the water simply has nowhere to come from.
Thermal insulating material
Two materials are most often used as insulation::
- Styrofoam. Aka polystyrene foam. The slabs in which it is sold are quite large; The recommended thickness for temperate climates is 5 centimeters, for Siberia and the Far East - 10.
The main advantage is that this insulation is non-hygroscopic, it does not dampen. If so, with any fluctuations in humidity, the quality of the ceiling’s thermal insulation will not change (see).
- Mineral wool (glass wool, ecowool, basalt wool and other variations on the same theme). The material is noticeably cheaper than foam plastic with the same degree of thermal insulation provided.
In addition, it is considered more environmentally friendly: mineral fiber does not emit anything into the atmosphere, and heated debates about the possible harm to health continue regarding the properties of expanded polystyrene.
The debate about which material is better can also be endless. On any construction portal you can meet convinced adherents of both methods of insulation; Therefore, we will not impose a certain position on the reader.
Let's just say that polystyrene foam changes its properties over time to a lesser extent, not only in a humid environment: mineral wool cakes over time. Even if perfect vapor barrier is provided.
If you choose polystyrene foam boards as thermal insulation - inner layer vapor barriers are also useless. It is enough to simply glue the seams between the plates with wide tape (see).
Sometimes the foam is simply placed on glue. From below it is covered with a layer decorative plaster- and the ceiling is ready.
Lathing
Two types of lathing are used: wooden and galvanized profile.
The wooden one is a little cheaper and a little easier to install. But the galvanized profile does not deform with fluctuations in temperature and humidity, is not affected by fungus and does not serve as food for insects.
Nuance: if we're talking about about insulating the ceiling from the inside wooden house- you can safely make the sheathing from a bar or slats. Really, what's the point of doing suspended ceiling stronger and more durable than walls and ceilings? Of course, it is worth treating the material for the sheathing with an antiseptic.
Binder
Everything is in your hands here. Most quick way hem the ceiling - Wall panels from PVC. In addition, they are easy to clean.
However, drywall will provide a smooth surface without seams; can be built and slatted ceiling, and hanging tile... The choice of material is solely a matter of personal preference and the budget allocated for repairs.
Basic Operations
As an example, let's consider insulating the ceiling from the inside in a private house for the case when there are beams overhead with a plank ceiling attached to them. The climate is temperate; We will be insulated with mineral wool 50 mm thick.
- Armed with a stapler, we attach it to the ceiling plastic film. It will completely stop the flow of moisture to the boards from the room and extend the life of our ceiling. An overlap of ten centimeters is required.
- We stuff the sheathing. We will hem the ceiling with PVC panels; a thin mounting rail is sufficient for them. But let's not forget about the thickness of the thermal insulation and take a 50x50 block.
We will fill it across future panels with a step of 60 centimeters: in this case, the panels will not sag, but mineral wool no need to cut to width. Most rolls are of this size.
- We fill the gaps between the bars with mineral wool. It is better to wear textile gloves and protect your eyes and nose: cotton wool fibers are volatile.
- Armed with a stapler again, we hem the sheathing from below with a second layer of polyethylene. Additionally, we glue the connections of the sheets with adhesive tape: the greater the tightness we provide, the longer the insulation will retain its properties.
- Finally, final stage: we hem the wall panels from below. We won’t focus on how this is done: installation methods have already been described hundreds of times.
Hem the panels to wooden sheathing- the task is more than simple.
Conclusion
Our goal has been achieved: the room is insulated from the inside. You don't have to be afraid of winter. The downside was that we lost about six centimeters of ceiling height. Unfortunately, the sacrifice was inevitable... Good luck with the repair!
Do you have to turn on the heaters often because the room can’t stay warm? Does moisture collect on the walls in cold but not rainy weather? Are there dark stains and mold on the walls? Is your apartment cold in winter and hot in summer? Is the floor so cold that even carpets can’t save you? Unfortunately, residents of uninsulated apartments on the top floor are familiar with all this. However, do not despair, all of the above problems can be solved. You just need to know how to insulate an apartment on the top floor, which will be discussed in this article.
Solving this problem needs to be approached comprehensively: insulate the walls, ceiling, floor, windows, doors, use radiators more rationally central heating.
Introductory information
Each material has its own thermal conductivity - the ability to conduct heat. The lower the value of this parameter, the worse the material conducts heat and, therefore, its thermal insulation qualities are higher. Another important parameter is the heat transfer resistance (material thickness (m) / thermal conductivity coefficient). The thicker the material, the better its thermal insulation qualities.
In October 2003, new standards for thermal resistance of enclosing structures (walls, ceilings, windows, etc.) came into force in Russia. The majority do not meet the new, stricter requirements residential buildings, erected before the adoption of existing standards.
Table No. 1.
Thermal conductivity coefficient of walls, required thickness
Note. In the table, for ease of calculation, a random value of R (heat transfer resistance) is taken, close to the average standardized value for the walls of residential buildings in Moscow and the Moscow region.
Reinforced concrete, concrete, and brick are materials that are excellent in their load-bearing capacity, but in order to meet modern standards for heat transfer resistance, they must be 5.7, 5.25 and 2.1 meters thick, respectively. Hardly anyone has met panel house with a wall thickness of 5 meters, or a Khrushchev building with 2.1-meter walls. Materials with better thermal insulation qualities have less bearing capacity, which does not allow their use in the construction of multi-story buildings. Excellent insulation materials, such as, for example, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, are not structural materials at all, therefore, even following common sense, it is impossible to build a house from them.
In order to comply with standards for the resistance to heat transfer of enclosing structures, developers are forced to build multi-layer houses, where one layer is load-bearing and the other is thermal insulation. And residents of old houses, in turn, should use modern insulation materials to minimize heat loss. Insulating the premises will make them cozy and comfortable, and will also eliminate the need to use additional heating devices.
Table No. 2.
Main types of insulation, their characteristics
| Characteristics\Material | Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) | Styrofoam | Fiberglass | Mineral wool |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m*K) | 0,033 | 0,035 | 0,039 | 0,04 |
| Water absorption, % of volume, average | No | 5 | 10 | 7,5 |
| Strength | Excellent mechanical strength | Relative strength | Brittle fibers; shrinks over time and when moistened | Shrinks when wet |
| Flammability group | G1–G4 | G2–G4 | Non-flammable | Non-flammable |
| Installation | Ease of installation | Ease of installation | Required individual means protection | |
| Service life, years | 50 | Up to 20 | Up to 25 | Up to 35 |
| Price, rub. m 3 | 3500–7000 | 1500–2500 | 1000–2000 | 2000–3500 |
| Required thickness at R = 3, mm | 99 | 105 | 117 | 120 |
Despite the high cost, EPPS is the most widely used. It is used in outdoor and internal insulation apartments, houses, attics and basements, floors, foundations, roofs, garages and so on.
Wall insulation
Walls, in view large area and contact with external environment(street), contribute to the loss of 20–30% of all heat. The “weak” points of the walls, through which the greatest heat loss occurs, are the seams between external walls, between external wall and ceilings (floor, ceiling), corners of rooms. It is obvious that the residents were especially unlucky corner apartments on the first and last floors, where heat loss is most significant. However, residents of apartments on the middle floors in the middle of the building are not protected from significant heat loss. It happens that the outer walls have hidden defects(through cracks, depressurization of seams, insufficient thickness heat-insulating material etc.).
The only way to avoid heat loss through walls is to insulate them. The best option is external wall insulation. With such insulation, the outer wall will no longer “heat the street”, but, on the contrary, will accumulate heat. In addition, it will be protected from strong winds, rain, and temperature changes (it will not freeze in winter and heat up in summer). This will also save useful space in the apartment. Internal wall insulation will be effective only if layered masonry, otherwise the temperature in the room will increase by only a couple of degrees, and condensation will most likely form on the wall or insulation. With internal insulation, you will also have to move the electrical wiring due to freezing of the walls.
Ceiling insulation
Losses through the ceiling are most significant for residents of apartments on the top floors. The laws of physics have not been canceled: heavy cold air goes down, and light warm air rises up and goes out.
Weak points: the seam between the wall and the ceiling, the corners of the room, as well as defects in the ceilings. As a rule, these places are cold bridges.
Typically in winter, heat loss through the ceiling of an apartment on the top floor is up to 20–30%. If there is a technical floor above the apartment, then heat loss is usually less than if the ceiling of the apartment on the top floor is also the roof of the house.
It is better to insulate the ceiling in an apartment on the top floor from the outside. You can do this yourself. If there is a technical floor above the apartment, then you need to insulate that section of the floor of the technical floor under which the apartment premises are located. If there is no additional floor and the ceiling of the apartment is part of the roof, then you can insulate the roof from the outside. The ceilings are also insulated inside the apartments. For this, as a rule, thermal insulation boards of EPS or ordinary polystyrene foam (foam plastic) are used.
Floor insulation
No matter how the physical law works, stating that hot air rises to the top, the floors on the top floors apartment buildings still cold. Of course, it’s not the same as on the first floors, but it’s still impossible to stand on the floor barefoot - it’s cold.
It is easier to insulate a floor than a wall or ceiling. For insulation, the most different insulation materials: from expanded clay and wood shavings to glass wool and expanded polystyrene. In order to save usable space and ease of installation, EPS is often used for floor insulation.
It is not necessary to consider a “warm floor” system for apartments on the top floor, and sometimes it is impossible. So, water heated floors in rooms multi-storey building with centralized heating is prohibited, but electric heating is characterized by increased electricity consumption, and its use as the main heating system is impossible in houses built more than 10–15 years ago.
Central heating
Often, to insulate an apartment on the top floor, it is enough to fully use the central heating resources. The main task is for everyone possible ways increase heat transfer from the radiator. Here are some useful tips:
- If the entire battery or part of it is cold, you need to bleed the air by slightly opening the air valve.
- To warm air heated the room, and not the walls of the house, you need to put a protective screen with a foil surface (popularly called a reflector) on the wall behind the radiator.
- Heated air should circulate freely, so you should not move furniture close to the radiator or cover it with curtains or drapes.
- The decorative screen installed on the battery must be removed. This will increase heat transfer by up to 20%.
If these measures do not have the desired effect, and the apartment has old-style batteries, you need to install new radiators that have higher heat transfer. For example, the heat transfer of one section bimetallic radiators is 140–210 W, while similar indicators for sections cast iron radiators do not exceed 60 W.
Heat loss through door leaf, despite its relatively small area, can be impressive - about 10%. Also, a large amount of heat is spent on heating cold air coming from outside (drafts). Drafts can be caused by worn seals or gaps between the frame and the walls. In this case, the door leaf needs to be upholstered, the seals must be replaced, and the cracks must be filled with foam.
Table No. 3.
Thermal conductivity of common materials used in the production of entrance doors.
Table No. 4.
Thermal conductivity of common materials used for upholstery of entrance doors.
Average heat loss, for example, through a solid pine door leaf measuring 2x0.7x0.03 m (HxWxD) will be 70 kWh. But it is enough to insulate it with 2 cm of foam rubber, and heat loss will decrease to 28 kWh. If you add another 2 cm of batting, the heat loss will already be 14.5 kWh. Already counting your savings in money? We will help. The efficiency of, for example, electric heaters is no more than 90%, that is, to obtain 1 kW of heat you need to spend 1.1 kW of electricity. 1 kWh of electricity costs on average 3.2 rubles. for the central part of Russia. To obtain 1 kW of heat, accordingly, you will need to pay about 3.5 rubles. We calculate the savings: (70 – 14.5)*3.5 = 194.25 rubles. 55.5 kWh of heat produced using an electric heater will cost approximately this amount.
Windows are one of the main sources of heat loss, especially if we are talking about old window frames that let cold air into the room (popularly called a draft, but scientifically called infiltration). In this case, heat loss can be up to 35%. If condensation, ice often appears on the windows, or drafts are felt, then they must be insulated.
It is most reliable to install a plastic double-glazed window. If this is not possible, you need to insulate window frame, sashes, glass, window sill and slopes with your own hands. When looking through the window for possible cracks, gaps and gaps, you should not rely only on external inspection; you need to “read” the windows with a damp hand, paying special attention to slopes, window sills, gaps between the sashes and the frame, between the sashes and the glass.
Window insulation occurs as follows: all cracks are filled with polyurethane foam; along the perimeter of the sashes, a sealant is glued to the places adjacent to the frame; along the perimeter of the contact of the glass to the frame is applied silicone sealant; and they glue it to the glass itself heat reflective film. All this will reduce heat loss by 20–25% through windows.
Bottom line
Competent comprehensive insulation- the key to a warm and cozy room without mold and wet spots on the walls, drafts and noise, a cold floor that you can’t step on without a pair of socks and slippers. This is also a significant saving in electricity, biofuel gas and other means used for heating. “My home is my fortress” - this is what every owner of a warm home will say, who has followed all the advice described above and thereby achieved best results insulating the apartment on the top floor.
Most of the built panel and brick houses did not provide for insulation of facades. Concrete and brick have high density and low thermal insulation properties. The consequence is cold walls and uncomfortable temperatures. There are several ways to insulate from the inside, the main thing is to avoid the appearance of dampness.
Dew point - physics of the phenomenon
A cold wall is not the only drawback panel or brick houses. Often dampness and accompanying fungus and mold appear on it. The best way struggle - insulating the wall from the outside (this is also a requirement of SNiP), but this is not always possible. Therefore we have to fight cold wall, insulating it from the inside. But there are pitfalls here.
Even if the cold wall was previously dry, when insulating it from the inside, dampness may appear. And the so-called dew point will be to blame.
The dew point is a conditional boundary at which the temperature of water vapor becomes equal to the temperature of condensation formation. It naturally appears during the cold season. With proper design of the house (taking into account the characteristics of the region), it is located approximately in the middle of the thickness of the facade made of a material of uniform density.
If insulation is carried out from the outside, the dew point shifts towards decreasing density (that is, towards the outer surface of the wall). When insulating from the inside, it moves inward, and condensation may appear on the surface of the main wall or inside the insulation.
And to assess the scale of possible damage, it is enough to say that as a result of the life activity of one person, about 4 liters of water evaporate per day (cooking, wet cleaning, personal hygiene, washing, etc.).
Features of insulating a cold wall from the inside
There are several ways to prevent condensation from appearing on an internally insulated wall:
- Creation of a layer of heat-insulating material with vapor permeability lower than that of the facade material.
- Insulation using materials with minimal water absorption.
- Application of ventilated facade technology (taking into account internal placement).
Liquid thermal insulation
Polyurethane foam
PPU insulation meets all requirements for vapor barrier, water absorption and absence of seams. Therefore, even if there is a dew point inside the layer, it will remain “conditional”, since there is no condensation in vapor-tight materials. This results in a completely sealed thermal insulation layer from the room side.
The environmental friendliness of polyurethane foam after hardening meets the requirements for residential premises. Harmful fumes are present only when the components are mixed during the spraying process - after polymerization, the structure of the material remains stable.
Apply thermal insulation between the sheathing and sew up with moisture-resistant sheet materials(gypsum board, OSB or plywood). Essentially, it's like a large prefabricated sandwich panel.
The disadvantage of this method is the use of special equipment.
Liquid ceramics
This is a relatively young thermal insulation material, the action of which is based on the use of two principles - the creation of a thin layer with high resistance to heat transfer and the reflection of heat towards the radiation source.
Of course, a thin thermal insulation layer cannot provide good thermal insulation- This is an auxiliary, but mandatory factor. Although it gives a fairly high effect - the wall becomes much “warmer” to the touch.
The main task of reducing heat loss is performed by microscopic ceramic spheres that reflect infrared radiation.
According to the manufacturers, the effect of a 1.5 mm layer can be compared with thermal insulation with 5 cm thick foam plastic or 6.5 cm mineral wool.
The application method is the same as for acrylic paint(the basis is the same). After polymerization, a dense and durable film is formed on the surface, and latex additives improve waterproofing properties.
Rolled thermal insulation
Penofol
Penofol is a combination of polyethylene foam and aluminum foil. This is a whole series of materials (including single-sided, double-sided, laminated, with an adhesive layer). Moreover, it can be used in combination with other thermal insulation materials, and independently. By the way, penofol is popular for insulating a bathhouse from the inside, and there is much more steam there than in an ordinary living room.
To insulate a cold wall, use penofol with one layer of foil (one-sided) and up to 5 mm thick.
In the case, as with liquid ceramics, the effect is achieved due to the low thermal conductivity of foamed polyethylene, as well as its low vapor permeability and high reflective properties of foil (up to 97%).
But unlike seamless coatings, complete sealing and prevention of cold bridges cannot be achieved. Consequently, condensation may form on the surface of the foil. Even the obligatory sealing of the joints with adhesive aluminum foil will still leave gaps inside between adjacent sheets.
The traditional method of combating the formation of condensation on foil is lathing with a ventilated gap between the penofol and the outer cladding.
Polyph
Another version of foamed polyethylene, but already made in the form of a kind of wallpaper - there is a layer of paper on both sides. Polyfoam and is intended for gluing wallpaper onto it.
Of course, its thermal insulation properties are not as high as those of penofol, but they are quite sufficient to make a cold wall feel warmer to the touch.
In most cases, the insignificant thickness of the insulation does not lead to the dew point moving to the inner surface.
The disadvantage of this method is that only a dry wall is insulated.
Insulation with polystyrene foam
Expanded polystyrene (or extruded polystyrene foam) is glued to the prepared and leveled wall. Both materials have very low water absorption (especially extruded polystyrene foam), so the formation of condensation in the insulation layer is excluded. The main danger is its appearance on the surface of the insulated wall.
Therefore, it is best to glue the sheets to special hydrophobic adhesive mixtures applied over the entire surface of the sheets. And to prevent the penetration of water vapor from the side of the room, treat the seams with sealant (you can also use polystyrene foam with a step or a tongue-and-groove connection).
Finishing can be done in two ways:
- mesh reinforcement and plaster application;
- paneling by supporting frame, fixed to the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls (false wall made of plasterboard).
Insulation with mineral wool
Mineral wool does not meet the requirements for vapor permeability and water absorption for insulation from the inside. But it can be used.
The main thing is to provide maximum protection against humid air from the side of the room and weathering of water vapor from the insulation layer. That is, create a ventilated facade, but in the reverse order: wall, gap, vapor-permeable membrane, mineral wool, vapor barrier film, decorative cladding indoors.
It is necessary to create a false wall at a distance of 2-3 cm from the main wall. And to ventilate water vapor, make ventilation holes at the bottom and top.
Residents of high-rise buildings living in apartments on the top floor are very familiar with all the positive and negative sides last floor. It will not be news to many that in the hot summer the roof heats up, the temperature is transmitted lower to the premises of the apartment and it is simply impossible to be in the apartment at this time without a cooling device (for example, an air conditioner). The cold months of the year have their own “charms”. Heat loss at this time through the ceiling is at least 15%, so its insulation is necessary. According to the conversion law, warm air rises and is discharged outside. Due to temperature differences, condensation forms on the ceiling, increasing air humidity. A favorable environment is created for the proliferation of fungi, which are very harmful to human health and can ruin any repair.
In addition, those living on the top floor are likely to get their ceiling wet from a leaking roof.
A similar situation arises for residents of apartments located at the end of the building. In case of insufficient insulation outer wall when it is cold outside and warm inside, moisture condenses on the surface of the wall, which subsequently leads to the formation of a wet surface on which fungi and blackness appear.
In such a situation it is necessary additional insulation surfaces (both internal and external).
Insulation of the ceiling from the outside.
Ceiling insulation provides not only comfortable temperature regime indoors at any time of the year, but also serious savings on heating costs.
Materials for insulation:
Expanded clay is a fire-resistant building material based on baked clay. It has sound and heat insulation properties, does not emit harmful substances, is not afraid of moisture, and rodents do not live in it.
Mineral wool is best used during construction or major renovations.
Ecowool is a cellulose loose and lightweight insulation material that is absolutely harmless to humans.
Penoizol and polystyrene foam - polymer materials, having low thermal conductivity and low bulk density, resistant to microorganisms.
The choice of insulation depends on the characteristics of the room, budget and consumer preferences. For ceilings, a special design is used from a layer of insulating material and a finished facing coating.
If there is an attic: clean the floor surface in the attic (the area to be cleaned should be more area ceiling surfaces. Place limiters (for example, boards) along the edges of the site so that the expanded clay does not crumble from the edges), then lay heat-insulating boards on it (you can additionally fix them with glue, but it is not necessary), and pour a layer of expanded clay on top of them. Insulating the ceiling from the outside
The second option: clean the surface of the attic, put insulation, which is covered with a layer of waterproofing, and a screed is installed on top.
Insulation of the ceiling inside the apartment.
A profile is mounted on the ceiling to attach the insulation, then waterproofing is done with glassine and thermal insulation boards are fixed. After which the covering is carried out, for example with plasterboard. Insulation of the ceiling and walls inside the apartment.
Fastening the insulation to the base of the ceiling using special “butterfly fasteners” and glue.
A distance equal to or slightly greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation is removed from the base of the ceiling and a guide profile is attached around the perimeter of the room. Next, marks are made on its sides every 40-50 cm, which are connected by a ceiling profile element. All that remains is to divide the interprofile niches into cells, using self-tapping screws to fix the profile, fill them with insulation and secure it to the frame ribs. The top of such a cake is covered with a reinforcing mesh with glue and is subjected to a standard painting finish.
If the insulation is attached directly to the ceiling, then first the insulation boards are fixed with glue, after which they are additionally pressed with “butterflies” after drilling holes with a puncher in ceiling slab(several per m²) and thermal insulation.
The same applies to wall insulation. Not all walls of the apartment should be insulated, but only those facing the street, the entrance - with different sides where temperature differences are possible.
First, the wall and ceiling need to be dried thoroughly (with a heater).
Soft mats and slabs are placed between the slats of wooden or metal frame. Rigid slabs are laid end to end and secured to the wall with dowels. After this, the surface is covered with a vapor barrier film made of ordinary polyethylene. The pieces of film are placed end-to-end or overlapping, and the joints must be sealed with tape. In this case, the edges of the film are extended 1-2 cm onto all joining structures: walls, ceiling, floor, window openings, so that there is simply nowhere for moisture to leak. The vapor barrier film is glued to the rigid insulation boards with polyurethane glue, double-sided tape and so on.
If the thermal insulation of a private home is poor, it is primarily the budget and health of the family that suffer. It also happens that home insulation work is carried out independently and unprofessionally. In this case, the property owner often loses money twice as much. Materials are wasted and do not perform their function properly.
Today you can insulate a ceiling very efficiently, cheaply and different materials. The main requirement for them is environmental friendliness and good heat transfer performance. Insulation materials should allow the house to “breathe” and protect it from the loss of precious heat in the harsh Russian winters. However, the average person, as practice shows, pays more attention to the pricing policy of manufacturers.
If you properly understand this area, you can find any material at an affordable price and with good heat saving properties.
Peculiarities
If you understand the issue in detail, you can insulate your own ceiling in an apartment without purchasing special equipment, which is not cheap at all. The main thing is to know how to do everything correctly. The owner will always have the basic tools for this in a private home.
Options for insulating the ceiling on the top floor apartment building also many. All ceiling insulation work is carried out in the attic, so there simply cannot be any debris in the rooms. It is very convenient and does not distract from work.
Types and materials
One of the insulation options is a technology using extruded polystyrene foam, isospan or polystyrene foam. This option is very popular. Styrofoam reduces the cost of budget expenditures. The use of extruded materials provides a guarantee long service and good insulation. Polystyrene foam is easy to work with, it is light and convenient. Most often, a house is also insulated with penoplex, penofol or expanded polystyrene.
Materials you need to purchase:
- Styrofoam;
- glassine or vapor barrier membrane;
- polyurethane foam.
Now openoplast. Foam sheets 100 mm thick are best suited for ceiling insulation. As for density, 15 kg per cubic meter is enough. If there is such a possibility, then such foam can even be laid in two layers. But it should be remembered that in this case, each joining seam should not coincide (the principle of brick laying is used) in order to prevent cold air from penetrating. All cracks and joints are also “sewn up” with foam plastic.
It is simply impossible to “fit” foam plastic perfectly.
To seal the cracks, special mounting foam is used. For its installation, it is recommended not to save money; it is better to buy a professional gun. It will allow you to place foam even in the narrowest crevices, and it is also much more convenient to use. As for the vapor barrier, many roofers do not insist on its use. Wood does not need additional insulation. But even if you are going to protect it, then use membrane materials. Film in in this case use is strictly prohibited in order to protect the wood from rotting and the spread of fungus. It is very difficult to fight him.
The sequence of work on ceiling insulation can be summarized in the following algorithm:
- lay foam plastic;
- prepare the surface;
- lay heat-insulating material;
- we place a vapor barrier;
- lay foam plastic;
- fill all joints with polyurethane foam.
The entire technological workflow occurs according to the following principle:
- All working surface must be cleared of all kinds of debris and unnecessary items. The space between the beams should not be wet. It must first be dried well (you can use powerful fan heaters).
- After cleaning, you should prepare foam sheets. Cut them so that their size is approximately 10 mm larger than the size of the element in which they will be mounted. This way the foam will fit tightly to all structures. For pruning, experts advise buying a special hacksaw. It will allow you to cut it faster and better.
- The next stage is laying a vapor barrier. It must be mounted with an overlap on a vertical surface. The vapor barrier is fixed using a construction stapler.
- Measure the frame of the structure accurately (it’s better to double-check than to spoil expensive material). The foam must be laid very tightly. If you decide to lay it in two layers, then the top sheet of foam should be placed offset (approximately half a sheet) so that there are no gaps. During installation, you should remember that foam plastic is a rather fragile material and can be accidentally broken. At this stage, do not rush and be extremely careful not to buy additional material.
- After all the structures are filled with polystyrene foam, we proceed to “blowing in” the joints and cracks with foam. When it hardens, the protruding mass can be trimmed off stationery knife. To avoid unnecessary work, fill the gaps carefully so that the foam does not protrude out. If the attic is subsequently used as an attic, then additional protection no foam is needed. It simply does not need it and will perform an excellent thermal insulation function.
Granular polystyrene very similar to the foam described above. Only it is produced not in the form of sheets, but as small balls. But granulated polystyrene is used very rarely for ceiling insulation, although it is very easy to use. The balls do not burn, quickly and well fill the entire structure, and perform an excellent thermal insulation function.
The first thing you need to do when insulating the ceiling with polystyrene is rough preparation, cleaning the areas from various debris. Then polystyrene is poured into all structures and distributed evenly. It doesn't get compacted. Experts recommend spreading it in a layer of up to 20 cm. The material will not weigh down the structure, since it is very light.
The filled polystyrene is covered with a vapor-permeable membrane. You can use any other material that is capable of permeable air.
This necessary condition, since the balls can fly away when the slightest wind blows.
This technology is quite effective and provides a fairly high level of thermal insulation in a private home. Another argument in favor of granulated polystyrene is its price. You can purchase it at a price of 5,500 rubles per cubic meter. It is easy to calculate that if you insulate the ceiling with a layer of about 20 centimeters, then 1 cubic meter of polystyrene will cover 5 square meters of the ceiling.
Another option for insulating the ceiling is penoizol. This is the newest material. It is produced in liquid form. By pouring the structure, you can fill all the cracks and voids. The service life of the material is up to 30 years. The only negative is that you need special equipment, special knowledge and skills to install it. If you choose this material, then it is necessary to attract specialists and additionally pay for their work.
But the specialists will do everything for you; your function is only to control their work. You only need to complete preparatory work– clean the insulated areas from various debris, remove interfering objects and things.
The next step is preparation and direct installation of the vapor barrier membrane. She protects wooden structures from moisture that will be released during the process of filling the ceiling with foam insulation. The membrane will create a barrier and release all vapors outside.
Now the specialists can get to work. They will apply penoizol in the required layer over the entire area. This work is done quite quickly. As for drying the material, this requires a certain time.
There is no need to cover (insulate) the surface insulated with foam insulation. Even if penoizol “protrudes” higher in some places, then this, if necessary, can be solved using a regular construction knife.
Now you need to figure out the cost of the material itself. One cubic meter of penoizol will cost you 1700-1800 rubles. This is a fairly reasonable price. As a result, you get minimal headaches and excellent results.
Another option is ceiling insulation mineral wool. It can be noted that this is the most popular technology for insulating not only the ceiling, but also walls and floors. The work can be divided into several stages.
Just like in all previous versions thermal insulation works, the area is cleaned and all debris is removed. Then a material is laid that allows steam and water to pass through. The hydraulic barrier is mounted using a stapler. In order for everything to be done reliably, it is necessary to make overlaps of up to 15 cm. Use tape to strengthen them.
Remember that a high-quality vapor barrier is an important stage of work with this technology.
When the vapor barrier is done, you can begin to fill the space between the beams with mineral wool. It is supplied both in rolls and in small sheets. The material is comfortable and lightweight. If you bought mineral wool in rolls, you can easily cut it into the pieces you need and lay it between the beams. Fill the space between the beams so that there are no gaps. The materials must fit tightly to each other. In order for mineral wool to fulfill its purpose well, it must be laid with a thickness of at least 10 cm. Only under this condition can it properly fulfill its purpose.
When installing rigid slabs, you should pay attention to the fact that the sheathing must be continuous. It is very important to properly waterproof the entire surface. Only after this the slabs are laid. Also remember that hard mineral wool will protect your fireplace from heat loss much better.
When working with mineral wool, you must take care of your own protection. Purchase a respirator and gloves in advance. After all the insulation work, mineral wool will not pose a danger to you and your family members. But during the installation process, when the material needs to be cut and taken by hand, small particles of cotton wool will enter the lungs and irritate the mucous membranes, and if they come into contact with the skin of the hands, they will cause itching and redness.
Despite this minor disadvantage, mineral wool is great if you need to insulate the attic yourself, without hiring specialists.
Mineral wool insulation technology
The entire insulated surface must be covered with a special windproof membrane. It will also protect from moisture from the outside, ensuring the removal of excess moisture from the inside. Installation is carried out as standard - using a special stapler. All joints are securely secured with special tape.
The cotton wool then fills the space between the slings. Most best option the thickness of the material is up to 20 centimeters. The cotton wool must be laid tightly, avoiding any gaps. Due to the fact that the attic is protected only by the roof, it needs to be insulated very well. Do not skimp on the thickness of mineral wool. In order for mineral wool sheets to hold tightly, they need to be well secured. You can use one of several methods for this procedure.
In the first case, you need to stuff the slats on top of the insulating layer. In another, stretch the twine on the surface. It will hold mineral wool perfectly, it won’t go anywhere.
Then comes the vapor barrier. The choice of this material is yours. Once it is attached, finishing can begin. Sheets of plywood are used; it is good to use plasterboard or lining for the attic.
The next technology for insulating the ceiling of a private house is thermal insulation sawdust. Very often this material is used in dachas.
If you don't want to spend large amounts money for insulating such buildings, budget options are quite suitable.
What you will need to insulate the ceiling of a country house:
- Sawdust from any type of wood. It is important that they are dry and not rotten. Such material can be found at the sawmill. They will gladly sell them to you for pennies.
- You will definitely need lime. It is used to protect the material from mold and all kinds of pests. It is added in a ratio of 1: 10. Buy finely ground lime (fluffed lime).
- To make the composition strong, many experts recommend adding cement (one part cement and 10 parts sawdust).
- It is recommended to use copper sulfate as an antiseptic.
The work algorithm is approximately as follows:
- Take a container convenient for mixing that you have on hand. summer cottage. It mixes 10 parts of sawdust, part of cement and lime. It is necessary to mix everything so that the mass is homogeneous.
- After this procedure, add water. The water should already be with copper sulfate. It must be poured in carefully; the entire heat-insulating mass should not be damp or wet, but only slightly damp.
- Then you need to move on to the next stage - preparing the ceiling. Entire surface ceiling should be covered with a layer of glassine. Lay this material overlapping so that the next one overlaps the previous one by 15 cm. The glassine will perform a waterproofing function and will not allow moisture to penetrate into wooden structures. The already mentioned stapler is used to fasten the glassine.
- Next, the prepared mass of thermal insulation must be evenly distributed over the entire area. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is recommended from 10 cm. The material does not require compaction.
- It takes some time for the laid layer of sawdust to dry completely. As a rule (it all depends on the weather), drying takes up to two weeks. But you can speed up the process available means. While the sawdust is drying, make sure that the attic is well ventilated. You cannot walk on such thermal insulation. If you plan to use the attic for domestic purposes, you will have to invest in boards or plywood that will protect the insulating material.
Another available material for insulation – a mixture of clay and sawdust. This mass will perfectly protect the house from loss of precious heat. Another bonus is the absolute environmental friendliness of this option.
To work on insulation you will need:
- directly the clay itself, which you can extract yourself with a shovel;
- sawdust(use the services of a sawmill);
- some cement. Buy it taking into account the consumption of 1:10.
You can prepare the sawdust-clay mass as follows:
If you have a concrete mixer, then you need to pour several buckets of clay into it, gradually add water so that the output is a liquid mass. Then sawdust is added. You need to add more until the solution becomes relatively dense. Make sure that the mixture is not very wet. This important point. When these conditions are met, cement can be added. It will thoroughly dry out such a composition.
Straw is also often used instead of sawdust. In this case, you will get adobe.
Next material, suitable for thermal insulation on the roof side – expanded clay It has fairly good thermal insulation properties, is quite lightweight and does not weigh down the insulated surface. It is easy to attach. It is also a fire-resistant material. In order for the use of expanded clay for thermal insulation to be effective, you need to make a layer of about 20 cm. Otherwise, there will be large heat losses. The roof beams should also be the same height.
Expanded clay is very widely used for thermal insulation. The technology for insulating a private house with it is quite simple. The surface under the backfill is cleared of foreign debris, and a vapor-permeable membrane is installed. The material is poured over the entire surface, covering the beams. To strengthen it you will need a stapler. Such work can be performed by any owner with a minimum set of tools.
Ecowool- another common way to insulate the ceiling of a private house. They started using it not so long ago. It's comparative new material for thermal insulation. Ecowool contains cellulose. Fire retardants and antiseptics are also added to it. They are needed to ensure that the material is non-flammable and safe. Due to the fact that ecowool has a capillary structure, moisture evaporates well from its surface. Additives in the form of an antiseptic prevent the appearance of mold and fungi.
Trust the specialists if you decide to use this insulation option.
Work algorithm:
No special surface preparation is needed. Cellulose is “friendly” with wood. It is necessary to clear the surface of debris and rid the room of unnecessary objects.
Ceiling insulation work can be carried out using both dry and wet methods. For the dry method, the material is applied under pressure to the surface to be insulated. At wet method wet mass is fed. After it dries, the adhesion of the material is very high quality. The wet method is more often used due to the fact that it increases the sound insulation rate.
