Working on a round machine
Longitudinal sawing
Installing the longitudinal stop. Support for longitudinal sawing, working along the entire work table from edge to edge, ideal for sawing artificial wood materials. However, when cutting solid wood (solid wood), such an emphasis can lead to an accident. Just as a partially cut kerf in surface-seasoned wood will pinch the blade if not for a wedge knife, such internal stresses can also propel the kerf until it is pressed against the saw blade and becomes stuck or possibly ejected . If the fence has front and back adjustments, it should be moved so that its rear end is 25mm behind the front edge of the overhanging part of the saw, providing the necessary space to the right of the blade. Or install wooden block on the stop to ensure this clearance. For any stop installation method, it must be parallel to the disk.
Set the cutting width on the stop scale, make a test cut on the scrap material and check the setting. If you don't trust the scale, use a ruler and measure from the fence to one of the saw teeth on the fence side. Be sure to secure the stop before turning it on.
Saw wide board. When cutting a wide board, move the workpiece from the back side (but not in line with the saw blade) with one hand, and use the other to press the board down on the table and stop at the same time. Load the workpiece evenly. Use the help of an assistant when working with very wide boards, making it clear that you are the one who will guide the workpiece and adjust the feed speed.
Sawing narrow boards. When completing the longitudinal cutting of a narrow board, feed the workpiece with a wooden pusher. A stand with a cutout at one end and rounded edge from another. Use a second pusher to push the parts against the stop. Keep the push rods near the machine so they are always available when you need them.
Intersection
Edge cutting with bevel stop. In the case of an average circular saw, the adjustable bevel fence is relatively short, but often has drilled holes, with which you can install an additional long wooden stop on a standard support. Press the workpiece firmly against the fence with both hands and feed at a relatively low speed. If the piece is too short to hold with both hands, secure it, for example, with a clamp on the stop.
Crossing the moving section. The friction between the large workpiece and the work table can turn crosscutting with a tapered abutment into a very difficult job. The ability to make simple, smooth crosscuts helps improve precision and accuracy of work results, regardless of the size or weight of the workpiece. The movable section of the round machine work table is longer than average, which can be rotated 90° to 45° relative to saw blade. Most stops have an adjustable end stop, which is necessary for making multiple identical parts.
Starting bevels. To make a bevel on a round machine, set the appropriate stop on desired angle, and then prepare the workpiece in the normal direction. Note that the piece was pressed firmly against the fence to prevent the saw from moving it backwards.
To obtain an angled cut, tilt the saw blade.
Getting the same parts
Getting the same scraps. Of course, it is very tempting to press the workpiece against the rip fence so that the same segments are produced to the right of the canvas. However, the cut piece may be caught between the stopper and the saw blade and thrown towards the drive unit. The right way is to either slightly not bring the longitudinal stop to the disk, or to fix the separating block until it stops, which will act as an end stop for the workpiece, leaving a gap to the right of the blade.
Read:
DIY circular saw knife
This video shows how easy it is to do knife for a circular saw made from a regular rivet.
Spreading knife for circular
To be able to use CMT slim series actuators on the WARRIOR W0703F circular drive.
Cutting out identical parts. Attach a wooden rod to the rack extension that will serve as a stop to set the same length for each workpiece.
Folds, grooves and studs
Shaker washers. The pair is skewed. swings. The washer causes the edge of the blade to wobble as it turns from side to side and creates a wider groove than a normal cut. Another way. mounting the grooved head. It is necessary to change the standard table setup to one with a wider slot for the saw blade.
folding. As a result, bending the workpiece results in two straight longitudinal cuts. The first cut is to the narrower edge of the piece, leaving enough material on each side of the blade to provide enough support. Reset the rip fence and blade height and make a second cut that will remove the wood pulp. Make the second cut so that the cut of the wood is on the side of the fence, since the cut, sandwiched between the fence and the blade, can be forced out by rotating the disk as the last fibers are cut.
groove groove. An oscillating saw allows you to cut a groove in one pass. Due to the lack of special equipment, first make one cut on each side of the groove, then, moving the rip fence across the width of the blade, make alternating cuts until you have taken out the entire groove between two cuts.
Comb cutting. To create the center ridge, make two identical stitches on the edge of one of the joint pieces. Make the first cut with the narrow edge, then turn the piece at the other end to cut the second side of the ridge. Remove cuttings from both sides of the ridge.
Performing a hairpin. Some machine tool manufacturers produce clamps for making pins. Alternatively, you can make a wooden template to hold the workpiece in place during processing. Fasten the screws with two wooden rods of the same thickness on a sheet of plywood measuring 400x200 mm. Both rods should be aligned along the long side of the plywood and leave room to place the piece between one of them and the edge of the plywood. The screws only use one. away from the saw. end of the bar. To prevent the pattern from changing, glue an extra stop.
Clamp the workpiece to the template and make one pass to trim one edge of the pin. Turn the piece over to cut the second edge.
Next, partially cut away the excess wood on each side of the pin to check its fit into the socket. If necessary, make adjustments to the fence setting before working on subsequent workpieces.
To perform the shoulders, fix the dividing block on longitudinal stop so that they are correctly positioned relative to the canvas.
If it is necessary to reduce the width of the tenon, first cut the shoulders and then remove waste with volumes of one blade thickness per pass.
Read:
You can modify the template to make a bevel cut.
The joint in the spine is open. This gusset used in the construction of box products. This is done by hand. a very labor-intensive process, but on a round machine using simple device you can cut several of these connections in minutes. Use a wide-cut blade or install shake washers to select the lugs (grooves between the tenons). Calculate the distance so that a whole number of spikes are obtained, evenly spaced on both parts of the joint.
To create a template, attach a long wooden part bracket to the stop and set the height of the blade slightly higher than the thickness of the workpiece, make a cut in the template.
Cross the hardwood piece of wood until it fits snugly into the cut. Cut 50-75 mm from the rod and insert this piece of rod into the cut so that a short protruding pin is formed.
Reinstall the template at the end of the bevel and place the remainder of the strip between the blade and the template pin, then secure the template to the fence and remove the strip.
Place the first joint piece on the end and place it in the raised tenon of the template. Secure the workpiece.
Make a pass through the saw, then place the resulting cut on the template tenon and make the next lug with the new cut.
Continue working in this order until the entire series of spikes is completed.
The spikes on the second part of the joint should be offset so that they line up with the eyes of the first part. Place the second piece on the end as in the previous operation, but between it and the template, place the rest of the strip.
DIY Jigsaw Saw... A reciprocating saw based on a jigsaw – it can be! Now they are buying a tool that can simplify any handmade. A jigsaw and a reciprocating saw are also related to them - indispensable tools in the arsenal of a summer resident. Alas, why spend money on both, if, with little effort, one can certainly be converted into the other? Reciprocating saw or...
In this article we will talk about woodworking techniques for the home workshop. You will learn how to debug correctly circular saw so that it does not spoil the workpiece during longitudinal cutting. The article provides technical techniques and tricks when working with longitudinal workpieces.
The problem of burnt hardwood (oak, beech, birch) when cutting along the grain on a circular saw can only be solved by grinding. And this additional operation, and quite labor-intensive. The appearance of scorch marks is a sure sign of incorrect machine settings, while the overloaded engine suffers, the disk wears out more and the workpiece deteriorates.
The most likely causes of scorch marks
- Tarred disc. Resin can be quickly removed special means or rinse with a regular solvent (this takes a little longer).
- Dull or broken blade tips. They can be restored, replaced or sharpened in a special workshop, but it is easier and faster to replace the disk with a new one.
- The parallelism of the limiters is skewed.
- Incorrect feed of workpiece.
- Structural defects of wood.
The first two reasons can be eliminated relatively easily and quickly - by cleaning or replacing the cutting blade. The other three are more serious, and below we will tell you how to deal with them.
Method of setting the parallelism of the disk and the stop using improvised means
- Set the stop 100 mm from the disc.
- Take a block 60-70 mm long and screw a round-head screw into the end. This head, when the block is pressed against the stop, should cling to the tooth of the disk.
- Mark this tooth with a marker.
- Slide the workpiece with the screw to the other side of the disc and rotate the disc itself until the marked tooth is level with the head of the screw.
- The force when hooking the screw head with a tooth should be the same at the beginning and at the end. This can be determined by ear - the metal of the disk perfectly reproduces vibrations. If the sound at the beginning and end is different, you need to more accurately align the sawing device in accordance with the instructions (for different models the methods will be different).
- Professional models, the saw of which is stationary, have a workbench adjustment*. To do this, you need to loosen several bolts (with which the workbench is secured to the frame). Carpentry-type machines provide for precise adjustment of the position of the saw unit.
* This refers to the part of a stationary saw, also called the saw table.
Precise parallelism setting using hour indicator
This is a more professional and accurate method, but it will require a special device - an ICH-10 hour indicator. In this case, the reference point for the stop is the groove of the disk.
- Install a strip or block into the groove.
- Install ICH-10 between the rail and the limiter. After this, reset the readings.
- Using ICH-10, adjust the stop according to the instrument readings - the difference in readings should be zero.
As you can see, this method is much faster and more accurate (division value is 0.1 mm), but such a device costs about 20 USD. e.
Disk alignment trick
The sawing device is always secured with several bolts. Therefore, when adjusting it, it is best to use one of them as an axis around which the entire mechanism or disk will move (by millimeters):
- Select the "axial" bolt based on the mounting location of your saw.
- Loosen it and then tighten it a little more than hand tightening.
- Carefully loosen the remaining bolts until there is some play.
- Adjust the mechanism or disk to the desired position, focusing on the readings of the ICH-10 or the alignment device.
- Do not press on parts of the mechanism to move it, but tap on reliable parts - this will be more accurate.
- After achieving the exact position, tighten the “axial” bolt first - this way the adjustment will not be lost.
This method is relevant for any stationary circular, reciprocating or band saws.
Trick for a riving knife
The final step in fine tuning the machine is to check and adjust the riving knife. This is a strip of metal behind the saw blade that opens the cut, preventing parts from jamming. It must be strictly vertical and parallel to the disk. Parallelism is checked using the usual rule. For safety reasons, some models are equipped with pressure toothed plates - they prevent the workpiece from moving backwards (the disk rotates towards the operator). Their adjustment comes down to checking the spring force.
Sometimes when wood has high density, a standard riving knife is not enough - the unsawn workpiece tends to return to its original position and clamping behind the riving knife occurs and inevitable scorching occurs. In this case, craftsmen use a simple solution that has no analogues in simplicity and reliability: a regular spacer wedge on a leash.
Wedge for circular saw on video
How to make a spacer wedge:
- After the workpiece has passed the standard spacer knife, insert a wooden wedge into the cut.
- Next, make a full pass of the workpiece and fix the extreme position of the wedge.
- Select a fixed point above the machine and select a leader along the length from the point to the wedge. It is advisable to use spring material.
- Tie the leash to a fixed point (part).
- After complete passage The wedge will be removed from the workpiece and remain on the leash.
For convenience when sawing many identical parts, you can adjust the length of the leader.
Correct feeding of the workpiece
Scorches and damaged workpieces are the easiest consequences of incorrect feeding of the workpiece. Even well-positioned knives and stops will not help if the workpiece is fed incorrectly - skew, jamming, reverse motion, or uncontrolled jerking of the workpiece is very likely. Given the enormous speed and strength of a circular saw, even a small, lightweight workpiece can cause injury to a person.
Rules for correct submission:
- Vertical clamp. No matter what angle you start the workpiece at, remember that it should be pressed tightly against the saw table at a distance of 30-100 mm from the blade.
- Horizontal clamp. Close contact with the limiter will ensure smooth movement of the workpiece.
- Wind and control the workpiece with both hands. This rule follows from the first two - one hand presses to the table, the other to the limiter.
- For small parts make or purchase a pusher - it will allow you to avoid dangerous proximity of your hands and the saw blade.
- Use a comb clamp. This device is freely sold (price from 3 USD) and has many options. You can also make it yourself (especially if your circular is homemade) according to specific sizes. To do this, you need to make many cuts in the block and cut the “comb” at an angle of 75°.
Of course, when working on machines, you should not be distracted or do other operations in parallel.
Structural defects of wood
Typically, defective wood is rejected during selection. Working with such workpieces is fraught not only with scorch marks (they will definitely appear even on a precisely set machine), but also with injuries. In this case, the material can be clean, without rot or knots.
Main signs of structural defects:
- Longitudinal curvature along the thickness of the workpiece. Craftsmen call such blanks “saber”. If the curvature is small (the height of the deflection is up to 10 mm per 1 m), the workpiece can be pressed harder when sawing. Workpieces with greater curvature are rejected.
- Longitudinal curvature along the width of the workpiece. The popular name is “yoke”. The rule is the same as with the “saber”, but the permissible deflection is 20 mm.
- The grain of the wood is not parallel to the workpiece. Most dangerous look defect - there are significant internal stresses in the workpiece. When sawing, they are released and it can behave unpredictably. The only option to use such a workpiece is to level it with a surface planer (reciprocal electric planer).
The first two cases can lead to scorch marks, the last one will definitely lead to it. Products from sawing skewed wood will also have a curvature and must be in a loose state after installation.
Conclusion
Timely inspection of the machine will save you from the unpleasant task of removing burns and scorches from workpieces. Remember that all manipulations with the machine must be carried out after it is disconnected from the network.
When cutting boards along the grain, the teeth circular saw, coming out from under the table, can lift the board up and throw it towards the worker with great force. To avoid this, you need to wedge the board being cut or prevent the teeth on the back of the circular saw from touching both sides of the board being cut.
This can be achieved using a riving knife in the shape of a sword or sickle installed behind the circular saw (Fig. 28). Thickness outside riving knife is 10% larger than the cutting width. Gradually the knife becomes thinner towards inside, i.e. in the direction of the teeth of the circular saw. This form of the riving knife ensures wedging of the material being cut and prevents it from being thrown in the opposite direction.
Rice. 28. Riving knife mounted under the table: 1 - wedge, 2 - cage, 3 - square, 4 - bracket of the square, 5 - circular saw, 6 - nut securing the square, 7 - wing.
The shape and dimensions of the riving knife must correspond to the diameter of the circular saw, its height above the table, and the cutting width. The riving knife must be secured so that it can be moved quickly and easily in horizontal and vertical directions. The knife should be no more than 10 mm away from the saw teeth. The height of the knife from its bottom edge should be 10 mm higher than the circular saw.
The upper guard of the circular saw serves to protect the worker’s hands from colliding with the saw teeth above the machine table.
The Simson fence shown in Fig. is very practical and reliable. 29.
Tube 3 is mounted on a stand (not shown in the figure) and can be moved vertically and set the fence to the appropriate height. A roller 5 is installed in the tube 3, which can move horizontally. It is secured by a clip 4. The upper part of the circular saw is protected by a casing 6. A lever is attached to the front of this casing on a suspension, along which the roller 8 can move when connecting sectors 9 that protect the working teeth of the saw. The rear part of the saw (non-working teeth) is protected by two sectors 1. During operation, the front edge of the part presses on the lever 7, which, rising, picks up the roller 8, located between the front sectors 9, with its curved end.
As the part is fed, the roller 8 rolls up the lever 7, and the front sectors 9 rise easily and smoothly, opening the teeth of the circular saw to a height corresponding to the thickness of the part being cut. The rear sectors 1 have teeth at the bottom, which protects the sawn part from being thrown back.
The lower guard of the circular saw is a suction device (see Fig. 1) that removes sawdust. It protects the bottom of the circular saw (under the table).
If there is no hood, for example in the case of a temporary installation of a saw, the circular saw is protected from below by a sheet steel guard. In this case, it is possible to remove the circular saw for pointing and replacement. A corresponding hole is left in the lower part of the fence to remove sawdust from under the working saw.
emphasis for rip sawing.
Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.
In general, any circular table is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws to the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Cast material may crack.
There is another popular way to attach a circular table to a table without drilling holes in the base - attach it using clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only this method did not seem to me to be correct enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of installation, and I did not use it.
Another important parameter manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.
The disc sawed through to the top side of the tabletop. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The cutting depth is set on the circular saw itself. It’s convenient that the disc can be completely hidden in the table.
UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circular saws, it may turn out that the disk is at an imperceptible angle. And all the cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disk is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the original platform. If the disk is not at a right angle and it is not possible to set the ideal angle of the platform, you can place several strips of tin on one side under the platform, achieving perfect angle(you can use washers for the screws that secure the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)
Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now be turned on by the start button.
This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).
Of course, it is possible to saw without equipment, using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.
This structure, pressing against the edges of the table and aligned with them, can move along the saw blade. By pressing the sled against the rail, you can easily saw it at exactly 90 degrees. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.
You can even cut the strip like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.
Sleds solve only part of the problem. For longitudinal sawing you also need a side stop.
I glued together brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.
It grabs the edges with a death grip.
A circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made it from waste furniture board a simple pusher.
I have already managed to work with this table, sawing slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to do all this work than I did by sawing by hand circular saw.
In the future I will further improve this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing so that, when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will install a removable riving knife to which the disk protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I saw, the blade throws wood dust right in my face)
- I’ll finish the improved pusher. I have already started making a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.
I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.
