Alas, the foreigners are right: we use whole trees for firewood, but we have learned to make furniture from sawdust. It’s good that many enterprises have switched to finishing these products using veneer. The products began to look richer. Veneer has always been a decoration wooden products. The finishing looks especially beautiful using combinations of veneers from various breeds tree.
So, let's look at how veneer is produced.
Veneer is usually called a thin piece of wood. They make them different ways, let's look at the three main ones: sawing, planing and peeling.
In any case, to produce veneer you will need:
- drying chamber;
- equipment for determining wood moisture content;
- equipment for direct production of veneer (depending on the method of production of the material).
Stages, materials and technology of the production process
So, you have to initially soak the wood for some time in water (the time depends on the density of the wood and its initial condition) and steam it.
Soaking and steaming are necessary to give the wood the same physical properties throughout the entire volume.
Otherwise you risk ruining inner part wood or even render equipment unusable. Next comes the drying process drying chamber. Natural drying of the wood will not give the uniformity you were striving for. Insufficiently dry wood is not used in the production of veneer, since in this case the percentage of defects is very high.
The moisture content of wood can also be checked in a homemade way using a laboratory hygrometer. To do this, cut a small section of wood and place a thermometer in the sawdust. The second thermometer remains open. Humidity is determined by the difference in thermometer readings and using a table. This method is not entirely reliable, because it gives very noticeable deviations from real results.
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Sawing finished material
Sawing veneer is similar to sawing an ordinary board. But the requirements for the sawmill are much stricter: very precise adjustment of the cutting planes is required, and the wood feeding speed is much lower than usual. The veneer turns out even, smooth, requiring virtually no modification. Band sawmills are quite suitable for this method of veneer production. There is only one thing to consider: about 60% of wood inevitably turns into sawdust. Let's call this a payment for the quality of veneer, but when used valuable species This production method is not used for wood. High-quality material obtained by sawing is always used to produce expensive goods. They decorate furniture with it. The soundboards of musical instruments are made from the same veneer.
Veneer obtained by sawing must still “ripen” for a certain time in a darkened room where a certain humidity is maintained. At mass production the resulting veneer is kept under pressure for a short time. This is a completely unnecessary procedure, since after sawing the wood can be heated, and the process of moisture evaporation will accelerate. This can cause various distortions and bends. It is better to play it safe and avoid damage to the material by placing it under a press.
It is much easier to obtain veneer by planing. Don’t be alarmed: it was only in the Middle Ages that veneer was planed from an ordinary board using a plane. Nowadays, everything is much more technologically advanced: a block of wood (namely a block!) is fixedly fixed on a workbench, and a wide, sharp knife removes a layer of a given thickness.
Here's the veneer for you. The equipment requirements are the same: very precise settings, low feed speed. The knife must have a certain sharpening angle, which is selected depending on the thickness of the required veneer and the density of the wood. This veneer is very often used for the production of plywood. For plywood to be of high quality, the veneer must be of the same quality. True, this rule is often abandoned in production in favor of the quantity of goods produced. At the same time, it is completely forgotten that at the final stage the plywood is pressed, which means the veneer is subjected to a rather impressive load. When its quality is low, normal cracking occurs.
One of the significant disadvantages of wood is that it quickly loses its attractiveness. Even if the conditions for its storage and use of lumber products are the most favorable, over time the surfaces inevitably change color and “fade,” that is, the wood loses its original appearance.
For restoration, renovation of furniture, structural elements Many technologies have been developed. One of them is veneering (the term veneering is sometimes used), which is quite accessible for DIY implementation.
There is no definition of the term “veneering” in various dictionaries. In essence, it means pasting materials with the thinnest layer decorative covering wood based. In principle (if you don’t go into specific details) this is the same lamination technology. The only difference is that, as a rule, products (objects, structural parts) made of wood are subjected to such surface finishing.
Veneer has a certain classification. Differences in production technology, as well as durability and specific use. Detailed description groups is unlikely to interest the reader. It is enough to note that if you plan to finish furniture with your own hands, then it is advisable to focus on peeled veneer (a natural product)
and fine line (the so-called reconstructed modification).
They have a lot in common - ease of working with the products (the layer is very thin), a variety of textures (especially fine-line modifications) and an affordable price.
Veneering technology is applied not only to wood, but also to materials (sheet, slab) based on it - chipboard, OSV and a number of others.
Therefore, talking only about furniture restoration is not entirely correct. With the help of veneer you can give a “second life” to old door jambs and canvases, wall panels, countertops - options for using such finishing enough.
There are several technologies for fixing veneer. There is only one available for DIY implementation - “hot”, which is based on the use of glue. This technology. The other two require special equipment, and home use they don't fit.
Hot veneer technology
Preparing the base
- Removing fittings (if any) and structural parts. For example, a peephole with door leaf, keyhole rim.
- Dismantling the old layer of finishing on a wooden surface. It’s easy to decide what you’ll need – a spatula, an iron for heating the coating, and so on.
- Elimination of existing base defects. Methods and materials are selected based on their nature and “depth”. Basically, grouting agents, putties and adhesive compositions. Upon completion of the work, the base is carefully sanded so that no bulges, dents or folds are formed when the veneer is applied.
Veneer preparation
- Editing sheets. This one is thin finishing material sold in rolls. Consequently, when straightened, it will try to return to its original position (memory effect). To restore them correct geometry, just walk along the wrong side with a damp sponge. The veneer will soften somewhat and straighten out. To consolidate the result, the sample should be clamped between two flat surfaces. For example, sheets of plywood, fiberboard slabs and the like, depending on the size of the fragment. To quickly remove moisture from the veneer, it is advisable to cover it with soft cloth or paper. After drying, it will remain in a straightened position.
- Editing edges. When restoring large surfaces, one sheet will not be enough. Veneer is sold with a blade width (with rare exceptions) of 30 cm. Consequently, splicing of fragments cannot be avoided. Edge straightening is nothing more than cutting sheets along a line. At home, 2 pieces of boards with treated ends are quite suitable for this (as an option). A sheet of veneer is placed between them so that only its edge protrudes. All that remains is to clamp the resulting “assembly” with clamps and trim off the excess (irregularities) sharp knife. It is advisable to work with a special tool designed specifically for cutting cardboard or thin plywood.
Veneering
Applying glue.
Recommendations for using the selected adhesive are always given by the manufacturer. But those who have already done this work with their own hands advise processing the base in 2 passes. First, the thinnest first layer - a short exposure until it “sets” - then the second. This technology allows you to see all the imperfections and distribute the glue as evenly as possible over the entire area.
Fixing sheets.
Experienced craftsmen recommend placing a sheet of paper (only waxed paper) first. The reason is that the veneer is thin, easily damaged, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to place it on the base immediately as needed. This means that it will inevitably have to be moved. When it reaches the optimal position, it is quite easy to remove the wax sheet without damaging the glue layer.
Processing of joints.
- Before the glue dries completely, in order to ensure the quality of the veneer, it is advisable to secure all joints with adhesive tape. Then it is easy to remove it.
- In some cases, it is advisable to first fasten the veneer strips into a single sheet, and only then lay it on the base. You will have to decide for yourself what to do best. But it’s worth considering (as one of the acceptable options).
- To avoid moisture absorption into the base, it is advisable to veneer not only the front part of the sample, but also the back and ends. This should also be taken into account when determining the course of action.
The final stage
After the adhesive composition has hardened (which implies reliable fixation of the veneer), a number of simple technological operations are performed.
- Inspection of the surface and identification of possible defects in the work.
- Removing excess (if any) glue.
- Sanding joints (edges). Extreme care must be taken here. The veneer is thin, and excessive zeal will lead to bald spots. Everything will have to be redone, since it is difficult to disguise the stains to match the finish, and it will not always work. Of course, the highest quality polishing is ensured grinder, but it is not in every home. If possible, asking friends for some time is the best solution.
- Application protective coating. This is necessary mainly for peeled veneer. It is not difficult to choose a composition, depending on the design of the sample, its purpose and specific use. The range of various oils, varnishes, and stains is impressive.
Having dealt with all the nuances, it becomes clear that do-it-yourself veneering is not a very complicated process. Knowing the technology, anyone can implement it at home. And if you wish, you can bring some of your own “zest” to this work.
Good luck to you, home craftsmen!
Those who make repairs with their own hands should take a closer look at such material as veneer. He is thin layer wood, that is, a completely natural material.
It is classified into the following types:
- standard: made from walnut, oak, cherry and other types of trees,
- special: varieties of rare and valuable tree species are used for production,
- root sections of tree species unsuitable for furniture production, but with an interesting pattern and texture (for example, eucalyptus or myrtle),
- exclusive: has a non-standard texture or size.
The material can be peeled, sawn and planed. The latter has greater value and practicality and is used most often in the furniture industry.
Most often they are glued to MDF veneer, for example, on wall or façade panels. Doors made of natural veneer also look stylish.
This material has an aesthetically attractive appearance; it can be glued to any wooden surfaces. At the same time, the price of the material is quite affordable, so without any special financial costs you can transform the interior of an apartment or country house.
The advantages of veneer include:
- durability,
- moisture resistance,
- environmental friendliness,
- strength.
It should be noted affordable price this material with high aesthetic qualities and practicality. That is why it is chosen for finishing furniture, doors and other interior items at home.
Let's look at how to properly glue veneer so that it lasts a long time and the surface acquires a beautiful new color.
VIDEO ON THE TOPIC
When working with veneer, it is important to carefully prepare the surface. If it is coniferous material, remove the resin with a knife and treat the area with acetone.
It is also necessary to remove any knots and irregularities, get rid of greasy stains, chips and cracks. To obtain a smooth surface, it is sanded and primed.
Many people are interested how to glue veneer on chipboard or plywood. It is easiest to work with flat surfaces, for example, a coffee table without protrusions or other shaped elements.
To finish it with veneer, you will need:
- sheet of white paper
- iron,
- thin cutter,
- sandpaper,
- glue,
- wooden block.
Select several sheets of plywood in width and length, preferably with a small margin. Veneer can be simple or figured. In the first case, the fibers are arranged in parallel; in the second, the pattern is more varied, and you can experiment with it.
Apply a thin, even layer of glue to the table surface and to the veneer sheets.
Place a sheet of material on Right place and iron with a heated iron. To avoid burning the veneer, use White list paper as a layer between the material and the iron.
Iron the heated area with a wooden block.
Place the next sheet slightly overlapping and repeat the procedure. Excess material is carefully cut off.
It is important not to overexpose the glue while it dries, as it quickly loses its properties.
After finishing gluing, make sure there are no air bubbles by tapping the surface. If they remain, cut them with a thin cutter, pour a little glue if necessary and heat them again with an iron.
VIDEO
- the color of the veneer sheets should be matched to the color of the wallpaper, furniture and other interior elements,
- The veneer sheets joined together look original different breeds trees,
- If you decide to pre-paint the sheets, wash them after painting running water and dry in a warm place, but not near heating appliances.
Thus, following a simple algorithm, you can quickly, easily and inexpensively give a second life to many things in the house, as well as realize your design ideas.
People who want to update their furniture, but do not have the opportunity to buy new products, should pay attention to veneer. It consists of sheets of wood that come in different thicknesses and colors. The veneer is glued to old furniture which improves it appearance. Such finishing will reliably protect objects from damage in the future, which is why many are interested in the question of how to glue veneer to a base. This is quite possible at home.
How to glue veneer: description of the main types of material
How to glue veneer correctly?
There are also root cuts of trees, from which nothing can be created on furniture production. However, they are still used because of the unusual pattern.
What glue should I use to glue veneer?
For working with thin wood it is better to use contact glue. It provides strong adhesion to surfaces. You can also try a different type of glue.
- PVA. Suitable for gluing even parts when this is done tightly using a hot iron.
- Titebond. It is considered a professional moisture-resistant solution and is suitable for working with more complex elements.
- Epoxy resin. It is also used for adhesion of thin wood to plywood and fiberboard, but not everyone likes it.
Remember that veneer is a porous material, so lubricate it only with thick glue that does not contain water-based solvents.
How to glue veneer at home?
Gluing veneer to a base is also called veneering. When performing the procedure, follow certain rules:
- Prepare the surfaces to be bonded so that they are clean and level.
- Inspect the veneer. If it has a layer of glue underneath protective film, remove it and go over this place with an iron.
- If there is no adhesive layer, apply it, and when everything is dry, glue the strip of wood to the base.
- How to glue veneer with an iron? Do this by smoothly guiding the device along the direction of the wood grain.
- Then be sure to varnish the veneer to protect it from external influences.
