How quickly potatoes sprout. How and when to germinate potatoes for planting. Technology for growing young and early potatoes

Potatoes are valuable and useful culture, which is grown for everyone personal plots. She is unpretentious, and growing her is not that difficult. But sometimes planted tubers do not want to germinate. It is important to know how many days after planting potatoes sprout. If necessary, you can speed up this process.

How many days does it take for potatoes to sprout after planting?

The appearance of the first shoots depends on the temperature of the soil. Germination is affected by night and morning frosts, which inhibit the development of the crop. You can start planting tubers at a temperature of at least +10°C. In this case, after planting, the potatoes sprout on the 20-25th day. When the soil temperature ranges from +11 to +18°C, sprouts appear on the 15-20th day. If the soil warms up above +19°C, seedlings will appear within a week.

These indicators are relevant for ordinary seed potatoes. If you plant germinated tubers, they will hatch 3–5 days earlier than the specified time.

It is worth considering that root crops are not deeply buried when planted early, because the lower layers of the soil do not warm up well. And in such conditions the culture does not germinate.

What determines potato germination?

The appearance of sprouts is influenced by the variety, quality of planting material, planting depth and temperature. external environment. In some cases, the planted material grows slowly, takes a long time, or does not sprout at all. Reasons for this phenomenon:

Poor quality nodules. Rotten, spoiled and damaged, without eyes, will not bear fruit.
Wrong variety. Mid-season and late varieties of potatoes are heat-loving. If you drop them off in early spring, the material will die from frost.
Planting in cold soil. Even short frosts destroy the crop.
Improper storage of planting material. If the tubers were kept in white synthetic bags until spring, they will not sprout. In addition, it is not recommended to store planting root crops together with food. Otherwise, the latter will accumulate a toxic substance - solanine.
Planting in soil that is too wet. In such an environment, the tubers rot and die.

Potatoes may not sprout due to exposure to diseases and pests. In spring, microorganisms and insects become active and are capable of destroying most of the planting material.

Variety

For spring planting choose early and mid-early varieties. They are more adapted to cold conditions and can easily tolerate frost. This category includes the hybrids Zabava F1, Laguna F1, Tushon, Sugar Finger. Even if planted in mid-April, they will sprout quickly.

Quality of planting material

For potatoes to sprout, it is important to choose healthy tubers. Signs of viable roots:

Each potato has several eyes.
The mass of tubers is not less than 40–50 g.
The germinated crop has thick, short sprouts.
There is no rot or damage on the material.

Temperature and soil

Potatoes prefer loose, fertile soil with an alkaline and neutral reaction. The culture takes root in acidic soil, but in such conditions it develops slowly. The plant does not like heavy, clay soil. Here he does not have enough oxygen for normal growth. Accordingly, in such soil the tubers will germinate later.

To correct the situation, acidic soil is limed in the fall. To do this, mix into the soil dolomite flour, chalk, wood ash. Clay soil is improved with peat or sand. These materials improve the breathability of the soil.

Minimum temperature soil in which tubers germinate – +8°C. In cold spring, it is advisable to cover the planting with covering material. Mulching the soil helps keep the plant warm. For these purposes, peat, rotted sawdust or compost are used.

Diseases and pests

If you do not follow the rules of crop rotation, microorganisms accumulate in the soil, which instantly destroy the seeds. Fungicides are used to combat pathogens. As a preventive measure, green manure is planted before the crop: winter rye, oats and legumes.

Insects also overwinter in the ground. Mole crickets, wireworm larvae and May beetles are dangerous for young root crops. These pests damage the seeds and gnaw off young shoots, which leads to the death of the plant. To protect against mole crickets, in the fall the soil is dug up to a depth of 20–25 cm. Then the hibernating pests end up on the surface and die from the first frosts.

To get rid of wireworm and May beetle larvae, onion peels are thrown into each hole to repel insects. Also add a handful eggshells, which not only protects the plant from mole crickets, but also gives it additional nutrition.

Reasons for the appearance of uneven shoots

It happens that potatoes are planted, but sprouts and seedlings of different bushes do not appear at the same time. The main reasons for uneven seed germination:

Uneven planting depth. Root crops planted closer to the soil surface warm up better and sprout faster. Seeds lying deeper remain dormant until heat appears.
Size. Small planting material produces weak shoots that are difficult to penetrate the soil. But seedlings also appear late from tubers that are too large. Such plants need more time to develop.
Planting different varieties. Early ones germinate faster than mid-season and late ones.
Unevenly germinated planting material.

To achieve friendly entrances, crops of the same variety and size are planted at a certain depth.

Acceleration methods

In the south of the country, gardeners manage to grow root crops twice a season. This is largely due to the air temperature and the type of vegetable. Some tricks also help speed up germination from the moment of planting:

During site preparation, organic and mineral fertilizers. But fresh manure is not used for potato beds.
Before planting, the tubers must be germinated.
Root crops are planted with their eyes facing up.
After planting, the soil is mulched to protect the sprouts from pests. This layer warms the tubers, which speeds up germination.
5–7 days after planting, the soil is carefully loosened to a depth of 1–2 cm. Then more air reaches the roots.
After germination, the planting is fertilized with urea or ammonium sulfate. Thanks to these fertilizers, plants begin to bloom and bloom faster.

For landing early varieties mid-April is suitable. But at this time the soil does not always warm up to desired temperature.If the weather is cold, potatoes are planted in the soil to a depth of no more than 5–6 cm. The weak rays of the April sun still warm the tubers and the plant sprouts.

Sprout potatoes in a ventilated, bright room. Root vegetables are laid out in wooden boxes filled with sawdust or sand. Once a week, planting material is treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate or boric acid. Such preparation will help to grow a large bush, and the fruits of the crop will be large.

Using various technologies germination and varietal characteristics, I accelerated the time of potato germination and significantly increased the yield.

Potatoes are an important component of nutrition; they store well and are unpretentious to growing conditions. Therefore, it is grown everywhere for themselves and for sale. The harvest largely depends on how friendly, timely and strong the seedlings are.

If the tubers are not germinated first, you need to be patient while waiting for the shoots. But it happens that high-quality seed produces late, uneven or sparse seedlings. Here are the factors that influence this.

This is one of the most important indicators. If the average daily air temperature is not lower than 8 degrees, then the soil at a depth of 10-12 cm has warmed up enough for the sprouts to develop. Many gardeners rely on folk signs.

Favorable period for planting potatoes according to the folk calendar:

birch leaves have reached the size of the smallest coin;
sowing of early varieties of grain crops is underway;
perennial plants bloom.

If the soil temperature remains around 8-10 degrees, potato shoots will appear in three weeks. If the air temperature reaches 15-20 degrees, green shoots can be seen in two weeks. Sprouted tubers germinate a week faster.

Planting depth

Potatoes that are deeply buried take much longer to germinate than those planted at a normal depth.

Humidity

If the soil is wet (humidity at 70-75%), you may not be able to wait for seedlings at all; the tubers will be affected by rot.

Reason for uneven emergence

If potatoes rise unevenly, the reasons may be:

different planting depths - tubers located close to the soil surface warm up better and germinate faster;
different sizes of planting material;
one batch may contain unsprouted and partially sprouted tubers;
a mixture of varieties in one bed - a mixture of planting material of early and late varieties produces uneven seedlings.

Germination is influenced correct selection and preparation of planting potatoes

Selection and preparation of planting material

In the fall, you need to select suitable seed material: tubers of the desired variety, correct shape, without damage.

To prevent potatoes from attracting rodents, they need to be greened. After this measure, planting material must be stored separately from edible potatoes; solanine contained in green tubers is harmful to the human body.

In the spring, planting tubers need to be sorted out, ventilated and treated with a solution of boric acid. Specimens weighing 50-90 g are considered ideal.

Soil preparation: loosening to a depth of 12-15 cm; so the soil is freed from excess moisture and is saturated with oxygen; best composition soil - sandy or sandy loam mixture. If fertilizers were not applied to the garden bed in the fall, you can do this in the spring; you will need compost and brown coal.

Before planting, the tubers can be sprouted: two to three weeks before the target date, place them in one or two layers in boxes and place the container in a bright place so that green sprouts appear from the eyes.

During germination, potatoes need to be moistened every other day using a sprayer. To moisten, you can alternate between plain water and ash solution.

Landing

Plants are not ventilated enough, and there is a risk of developing late blight. Often planted plants are difficult to hill up; some of the tubers may turn green and become unsuitable for consumption.

Landing dates

When choosing a planting date, you need to take into account that both drought and excess moisture can damage the seedlings. If you plant early ripening varieties early, you can get early harvest, and the bushes will not have to be treated to protect them from pests.

The harvest can be harvested before the peak activity of the Colorado potato beetle at all stages of development. But early varieties are poorly stored, and it will be difficult to save the seed.

Benefits of early planting

Many are afraid of a late drop in temperature and postpone planting until the weather becomes stable. If a green bush is caught by frost, even the darkened green mass will later be restored. They can help the plant survive the cold snap nitrogen fertilizers, previously applied to the soil.

Organic matter protects the tuber well - adding 500 g of rotted nitrogen to each bush will ensure natural heating of the soil. Covering hilling will warm the seedlings and guarantee active vegetation.

Even late snowfall after planting potatoes increases the yield, further saturating the soil with moisture.

If planting is delayed, the tubers will end up in overheated and overdried soil, which will negatively affect germination and yield. Potatoes planted early (in April) have already formed a crop by mid-summer, and May plantings are only forming tubers.

But if the air temperature reaches 29 degrees and does not drop below 20 at night, the growth of tubers stops and the tops begin to actively grow. This confirms the benefits of early planting.

Also experienced gardeners It is recommended to combine plantings from early, middle and late varieties. Then, no matter the weather conditions, there will be a harvest in the garden.

Provides strong, timely potato shoots good composition soil, preparation seed material, right choice varieties.

(Some tricks for growing potatoes) Potatoes are grown by all rural residents and many city dwellers. It is believed that it is easy to grow and everyone knows how to do it.

In practice, potatoes actually grow almost everywhere; they are not as demanding as other types of root crops and caring for them is not very difficult. This is true, but what kind of potatoes will grow, what kind of harvest will be and at what time is often not taken into account, but in vain, your work must be appreciated and, in addition, the profitability of your farm and a very pleasant feeling of satisfaction with the results of your efforts depend on this.

Everyone is used to the fact that the planted the potatoes will sprout on the 21st day, will grow until autumn, harvesting in September. This is traditional, with everyone together and of course there is no sales (mass cleaning is underway), there is no normal price, the income is either meager or zero.

But if you work thoughtfully and diligently, you can have a completely different result. Do you want to grow an excellent harvest, harvest it in June, sell it at a good price and make a profit? I see you want it. Then be patient and read this page to the end.

How to grow early potatoes. The site is selected on a hill, which dries out in the spring earlier than others. The composition is better than loam.

In the spring, add potassium and phosphorus.

Early and mid-early varieties are taken.

Germinate at a temperature of 12-15 degrees in 30-35 days.

You can germinate in the light or in the basement with electric lighting, while the tubers are laid out in 2-3 layers.

Spray every week copper sulfate, boric acid or potassium permanganate (m. vitriol - 2 g per 10 liters of water, b. acid - 50 g per 10 liters of water, potassium permanganate - 10 g per 10 liters of water).

Tubers with short thick shoots are ready for planting.

If germination has not been carried out, then a week before planting, you can keep the potatoes in a bright room at a temperature of 15 degrees to warm up.

It is better to plant whole tubers - 70-80g (chicken egg), but you can also cut them, leaving 2-3 sprouts on each part. Cut 2-3 days before planting. Disinfect cutting knives (potassium permanganate) or heat them on fire for 10 seconds.

Planting in late April - early May at a soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm equal to 8 degrees Celsius.

If there is a threat of frost, hill up (you can fill up completely, it will break through).

With a height of 10-12 cm, it is necessary to carry out hilling and loosening of row spacing.

A month after planting, feed the sulfate with ammonium (25 g per sq. m.) or urea (12 g. per sq. m.).

At the beginning of budding, the second feeding (potassium 30-50g per 10 liters of water).

Cleaning can begin at the end of June. Complete removal by August 1st.After harvesting, green the potatoes in the light for 10-15 days, which will be used for seeds.

It is strictly forbidden to green food products.If you do everything as written, you will be in grief. Act with God! After planting potatoes, there is no need to worry at first; we all know that potatoes take a long time to sprout, and we just need to wait.

But when there are still no shoots, you involuntarily begin to worry: is everything okay? Our relatives had real case, when the potatoes have not sprouted at all! So, when to expect potato sprouts to appear, why are they not friendly and why have our relatives’ potatoes not sprouted...

The dependence of the emergence of potato seedlings on soil temperature or When to plant potatoes?

The most important factor in the successful emergence of potato seedlings is the soil temperature. If the soil has warmed up at a depth of 10-12 cm to 7..8 degrees (the average daily temperature is usually +8 degrees) - you can start planting potatoes. Of course, not All gardeners check the soil temperature with a thermometer in their hands. You can trust folk signs, or rather, natural conventional signs.

For example, the time of flowering and blooming of perennial plants. When to plant potatoes? According to popular wisdom, we begin planting as soon as the leaves on the birch tree become the size of a penny coin. Signs of soil warming and natural indicators for the start of sowing work - in THIS ARTICLE

When will potato shoots appear?

When the soil warms up to +10 degrees, potato seedlings appear in 23-25 days. At a soil temperature of 18-20 degrees, seedlings appear in 10-20 days. Sprouted potatoes sprout 6-10 days earlier. If planting occurs in early dates- you shouldn’t bury the tubers, they will “sit” for a long time, the upper layers warm up faster, when shallow landing the potatoes will sprout faster. When soil moisture is more than 75%, planting potatoes is not advisable; in such conditions, there is a high probability of tubers being damaged by putrefactive diseases.

SIDERATS at the dacha: how to SOW and COLLECT SEEDS

Why are there uneven shoots?

Reasons for the appearance uneven shoots some:

Various planting depths. The soil warms up unevenly - and those tubers that are closer to the surface sprout earlier, those that lie deeper wait for warmer weather.
Planting tubers of various sizes.
Unevenly sprouted tubers, or not sprouted at all.
Mix of varieties different periods maturation, with various periods of rest. You've probably noticed that each variety behaves differently during storage. Much depends on the rest period. Those varieties in which it is short are in no way intended for long-term storage, only for processing (for example, for chips). But there are also well-stored varieties - their dormant period is quite long. If you have a mixture of varieties, it is quite possible that seedlings will appear at different times.

Can potatoes not sprout at all?

Quite, our relatives had such a sad experience. And the whole issue turned out to be improper storage of planting material. The planting potatoes were stored in the cellar, as always, but... they were not poured out of white synthetic bags.

So it stood in them until spring. Everything seemed to be fine, they planted potatoes, but they still didn’t see any shoots. Such negligence cost a lot of money and nerves; at the beginning of summer I had to look for new potatoes and plant them again. But now we all have a lesson - we try not to leave potatoes in white bags even for a short time and always remember this incident. : detailed instructions HERE

Potatoes, proper planting of tubers, care after planting

When to plant potatoes correctly

Tubers are planted when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm will reach 7-8 degrees. Usually in the Moscow region this happens in early May. Delay in planting potatoes entails a 30% loss of yield.

Well sprouted tubers for getting early potatoes can be planted a little earlier - at a soil temperature of 5-6 degrees. Experience shows that such early planting in insufficiently warmed soil gives a greater harvest than late planting in warmed soil.

Potatoes are being planted on a flat surface, and on waterlogged and heavy soils - in ridges. With this planting, the soil warms up better and more air flows to the tubers.

Distance between rows of potatoes when planting

Before boarding In order to evenly place the plants on the area, the area should be marked. To do this, use a marker to make shallow grooves along which the planting is carried out. For the first pass of the marker, pull the cord along which its outermost tooth is guided.

You can plant tubers directly under the cord, but this is less convenient and takes more time. To increase productivity after planting, the soil can be mulch(sprinkle with a 2-3 cm layer of peat).

The optimal distance between rows of potatoes for early-ripening varieties is 70-75 cm, for late-ripening varieties - 80-90 cm. Planting density depends on the size of potato tubers. Small ones are planted after 18-20 cm, medium and large ones after 26-28 cm.

Tubers are planted deep in heavy soils 6-8 cm, on light ones - 8-10 cm, counting the distance from the soil surface to the tuber. With such planting, approximately 350 large tubers, 450 medium ones, 500 and smaller ones will be required per hundred square meters.

Caring for potatoes after planting

Potato care basically comes down to keeping the soil loose and killing weeds.

Harrowing potatoes. The first harrowing is carried out 4-5 days after planting. Then two or three more before germination and one or two after the plants appear on the surface.

Typically, 16-28 days pass from planting to germination. Loosening and hilling potatoes. After the rows are well defined and the plants have sprouted so much that it is impossible to harrow, they begin to loosen the rows.

The first time the soil is loosened deeply - by 12-14 cm, and the second and third shallower - by 6-8 cm. When the plants reach a height of 12-15 cm, the first hilling is carried out, with a ridge height of 15-20 cm. The second time the potatoes are earthed up before by closing the tops.

Feeding potatoes after planting. Before loosening the rows and hilling, it is advisable to feed the plants. This is especially important for mid-season and late potato varieties. It is enough to carry out two feedings.

First time you can add two handfuls of humus under each bush with two teaspoons of ammonium nitrate added to it, or you can add two handfuls of ash mixed with the same amount of earth, or you can add 15 g chicken manure. For the second feeding dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of superphosphate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska.

Plants are watered with this solution at the roots, and then watered clean water. Keep in mind that fertilizing is given only during the initial development of plants. After flowering, they lead to late ripening of tubers and the accumulation of nitrates in them.

In case of lack of moisture Potatoes are watered in furrows or by sprinkling. Drought 2-3 weeks after emergence, during the appearance of buds and in early August, when the tubers are growing, can significantly reduce the yield.

After watering, the soil must be loosened so that a crust does not form. Advice. To avoid damaging the potatoes, keep in mind that in hot and dry weather you should not carry out deep loosening around the bushes or hill up the plants.

This leads to dehydration and overheating of the soil, stops the growth of tubers and contributes to the emergence of diseases. During drought, shallow loosening of row spacing is sufficient.

Caring for potatoes after planting

Vegetable growing

Timely and careful care of potatoes after planting (during the entire growing season) - required condition to obtain large yields. For potato seedlings to emerge, weeds must be vigorously fought, otherwise they will be able to take root and bloom. Main mass weeds, usually annual weeds, before throwing out the rosette to the surface, they sprout thin, large seedlings. Even with shallow tillage, they are easily torn off or pulled out, and the part that remains with the root does not grow and dies.

IN given time harrowing can kill almost all annual weeds and some of the rhizomes that overwinter in the surface layer. In this case, the timing of work to care for potato crops before germination is very important. It is necessary to harrow a potato field immediately after the formation of a soil crust or when only a small part of the weeds have emerged that have not yet taken root and are not colored.

In this state, weeds buried in soil die from exhaustion, and those on the surface dry out very quickly. Harrowing of potatoes before germination begins 5-6 days after planting and, depending on the weediness of the field and precipitation, it is done two, and sometimes three times, interrupted when the potato shoots reach ten centimeters. Loosen (harrow) the soil before germination potatoes and seedlings using a light harrow or a very heavy rake. Protecting young potato seedlings from frost is a necessary procedure when cultivating early potatoes.

It may be that the seedlings are severely damaged by frost, but the crops do not die: the mother potato tubers will sprout new shoots. However, as observations show, the yield on crops damaged by frost decreases and shifts to more late dates.If there is a threat of frost, you need to cover the seedlings with soil and lightly hill up the plants. The next stage of work on the potato field is processing, which can be done with hoes, rippers with teeth or shovels. Manual model cultivators have proven themselves to be excellent. Number inter-row cultivation associated with the nature of the soil and meteorological factors.

As a rule, such treatments are carried out after heavy rainfall and watering and continue until the tops close. A mandatory technique for caring for potatoes is hilling. Using a hiller, they loosen the soil between the rows, lift it and roll it to the base of the stems, on which, after a short time, stolons appear, which end in tubers, and additional roots. In the hilled ridge, the most optimal water-air regime is formed for the formation of the root system of potatoes: the soil here There is little compaction and there is no excess moisture.

In addition, the resistance of stems to lodging increases, and this, in turn, makes the assimilation activity of the middle and lower tier of leaves longer. The ridge protects potato tubers from greening and the accumulation of solanine in them, as well as from temperature changes in the ground layer of air. Hilling up potatoes should be started as early as possible in order to provoke the early emergence of new root systems and potato tubers.

As a rule, hilling of potatoes is carried out during the beginning of budding, timing this work to heavy rainfall or watering. Later hilling (at the beginning of flowering) is accompanied by greater damage to root systems and stolons, which during this period are localized close to the surface. The number of hillings directly depends on the potato variety, soil properties and weather factors (as a rule, in the conditions of the central zone of the Russian Federation one or two ).

The first hilling of potatoes is shallower, the second - to a depth of 15-20 cm. After each hilling, you need to loosen the bottom of the furrows between the ridges.

This saves moisture and increases the potato yield. If, for one reason or another, before planting potatoes and during it, it was not possible to fill the area with fertilizers in sufficient quantities and the plants do not form satisfactorily, the potatoes must be fed (before the first hilling) with those nutrients that are lacking in soil. A potato plant consumes an average of approximately 100 liters of water to produce one kilogram of tuber harvest. But there is no need to limit yourself to this norm, since in addition to the consumption of moisture for transpiration, a significant amount of it also evaporates from the soil surface. In the early stages of formation, potato plants consume a little water, but its lack during this period gives rise to profound changes in metabolism.

Their consequences are revealed later, even with an optimal irrigation regime. The observations carried out show that in potato plants exposed to drought in the initial phases of formation, the time of stolon formation changes and the formation of tubers is greatly delayed. Under satisfactory water supply conditions in early potato varieties, the formation of stolons and the setting of tubers occurs in the first 4-5 weeks after emergence.

A decrease in soil moisture at this time suppresses growth processes and limits the likelihood of obtaining a large potato harvest. Potatoes consume the most significant amount of water during their flowering period. At this time, the tubers in particular are growing very quickly.

But potatoes are most unstable to a lack of water in the soil during the budding period, when stolons, secondary roots appear and tubers begin to grow. Rapid fluctuations in soil moisture lead to an increase in the percentage of small and ugly-looking tubers, and rains and watering in the initial phases of formation promote accelerate their ripening and increase their dry matter content. An increase in humidity at a later date inhibits the ripening of potatoes and reduces the presence of starch in it. Depending on the meteorological conditions of the year, the first growing season watering is timed to coincide with the potato budding stage, subsequent ones - after 10-12 days.

It is best to water the furrows with a small stream. After watering and drying the soil surface, loosening or hilling is done.

Caring for potatoes after planting: watering, loosening, hilling, fertilizing

In previous articles we talked about sprouting potatoes, growing seedlings and planting potatoes in the ground. Today we’ll talk about caring for potatoes after planting, namely: watering, loosening, hilling and fertilizing.

Watering potatoes

It is not recommended to water potatoes for the first time after planting, since at this time they will develop root system. With moderate humidity, the roots branch and penetrate deep into the soil, but if the soil is over-moistened, the roots will not be located deep enough, which will subsequently negatively affect the development of the potato bush, since it will be more difficult for it to obtain moisture.

The first watering of potatoes after planting is best done with the emergence of seedlings. Water the potatoes sparingly. When bushes begin to form, the potato's need for water increases.

You should not rely on rain: as soon as you notice that the lower leaves begin to wilt slightly, be sure to water the potatoes. Potatoes experience the greatest need for moisture during the period of budding and flowering. If the amount of moisture at this time is insufficient for the potatoes, this will have a bad effect on their harvest - the potatoes will be very small. It is best to water the potatoes not cold, but lightly. warm water, preheated to " room temperature"in barrels or tubs. The best time to water potatoes is early morning or evening.

Loosening the soil

Surface loosening of the soil, carried out to a depth of 2–3 cm, is a very useful procedure for potatoes, increasing the flow of oxygen to the tubers. In addition, in the process of loosening you destroy small weeds.

The first loosening is carried out a week after planting the potatoes. Subsequently, the soil is loosened as needed after watering and rain, thereby preventing the formation of crust and helping to saturate the soil with oxygen. Loosening must be done very carefully, trying not to damage the sprouts and not pull the tubers to the surface.

Hilling up potatoes

Hilling has a very positive effect on the potato yield and can significantly increase it. Hilling accelerates the processes of bush development, flowering and tuberization.

In addition, hilling protects potato tubers from late blight, preventing infection from spreading from the affected tops to the tubers. Potatoes need to be hilled 2-3 times during the season. The first hilling of potatoes is carried out when the tops reach a height of 13 - 15 cm.

The soil used for hilling must be moist. How is hilling carried out? It’s very simple: the soil is raked in small portions to the tops using a hoe so that a mound is formed around the bush.

The second hilling of potatoes is carried out 10 - 12 days after the first. Third - as needed.

Fertilizing potatoes in the garden

To obtain good harvest potatoes, during the growing process they need to be periodically fed. During the growing season, root feeding of potatoes is carried out three times; the composition of fertilizers depends on the development phase of the potato bush.

In addition, when seedlings appear, potatoes can be sprayed with a solution of macro- and microfertilizers. Root feeding is best done according to wet ground after watering or rain.

First root feeding carried out during the growth of tops if the potato bushes are poorly developed, have thin stems and pale leaves. Feeding composition: 1 tablespoon of urea per 10 liters of water or half a liter of mushy mullein or bird droppings per bucket of water. Dosage: half a liter of solution for each bush.

Second root feeding potatoes are carried out during the budding period to accelerate flowering. Feeding composition: 1 tablespoon potassium sulfate + 3 tablespoons wood ash per 10 liters of water or just 1 glass of wood ash per bucket of water. Dosage: half a liter of solution for each bush. Third root feeding carried out during flowering of potatoes to accelerate the tuberization process. Feeding composition: 2 tablespoons of superphosphate + 1 glass of mushy mullein or chicken droppings per 10 liters of water. Dosage: half a liter of solution for each bush.

Root feeding of potatoes with fertilizer solutions is carried out in cases where we're talking about about relatively small quantity bushes If the area of the potato plot exceeds 100 m2, that is, 1 hundred square meters, fertilizing is carried out with dry fertilizers, scattering them under each bush:

first feeding (to accelerate the growth of tops) - 1/2 teaspoon of urea + 200 g of manure or plant humus per 1 bush; second feeding (during budding) - 1 tablespoon of wood ash + 1/2 teaspoon of potassium sulfate or 1 teaspoon a spoonful of nitrophoska per 1 bush; third feeding (during flowering) - 1 teaspoon of powdered superphosphate per 1 bush.

Potatoes have long been considered the “second bread” due to their availability, satiety, harmonious combination with many products. It turns out to be especially tasty and healthy if grown in your own garden. But here there is a need for certain knowledge and experience, otherwise there is a high probability of not only getting a small harvest, but also not waiting for shoots at all. In the article we will tell you why potatoes do not sprout well, and we will give advice on proper planting and caring for tubers during storage.

In order to choose the time to plant potatoes in the garden, you need to focus on the following criteria:

Air temperature.
Soil moisture, which should promote germination and not rotting or drying out of seeds.
The planting schedule for early and late varieties will also be different.

If the air temperature can be seen on a thermometer, then the level of soil heating can be monitored by natural phenomena. Early potato varieties can be planted when the soil begins to revive earthworms, and late ones, to be stored, during the flowering of dandelions. Many experienced gardeners also focus on lunar calendars landings cultivated plants. .

What prevents the emergence of seedlings

Usually from the day of planting at a stable warm weather shoots begin to appear after 10 days. The maximum waiting period is up to 20 days, which is typical for northern latitudes, as well as in cool May conditions. It is considered inappropriate to wait any longer for the emergence of seedlings; even if they appear, the tubers most likely will not have time to properly grow and ripen. What can cause the lack of seedlings within the recommended time frame?

Violations of landing conditions

Even if the timing and certain weather conditions are observed during planting, if subsequent days are not warm enough or cloudy, the emergence of seedlings may be delayed. What are the requirements and possible deviations from the norm you need to know:

Conditions	Violations
The air temperature should remain at least 10°C.	If temperature regime is not observed, that is, there is a possibility that the potatoes will simply lie in the ground in the form in which they were planted. To the unexpected weather conditions Only unexpected night frosts can be attributed, but already planted seeds can tolerate a short-term drop in temperature quite easily.
Soil moisture	If the ground has not had time to dry out a little from melt water, the planting material may simply rot. This risk also exists when planting in lowlands. Conversely, planting potatoes in dry soil without subsequent proper watering will not allow the plant to develop. The same applies to planting using unconventional methods without digging under grass, straw, and hay. In this case, it is necessary to more carefully monitor the soil moisture, since it dries out faster.
Planting depth	The appropriate depth of planting material should be selected depending on the composition of the soil. In heavy soils, planting on the recommended spade bayonet may result in young shoots not breaking through. upper layer land. In sandy soils and loams, shallow planting can lead to accelerated drying of the soil at the level where the tubers are located and, as a result, a lack of moisture for the development of shoots.
Tillage	Pre-planting tillage includes plowing and harrowing, unless we are talking about non-traditional growing methods. When planted in unbroken plowed soil, the sprouts will develop under clods of earth and emerge weakened and at different intervals.

Quality of potatoes intended for planting

What to watch out for here:

tubers affected by diseases, and the assessment should take place not only according to external signs, but also on the cut;
varieties not suitable for cultivation in this region;
tubers that do not have developed sprouts;
too large or small sizes;
rotten or damaged planting material;
treated with chemicals that prevent potatoes from sprouting.

Damage by diseases or pests

In addition to careful selection healthy potatoes for planting, due attention must be paid to possible contamination of the soil for planting. If last year the crop in this place was susceptible to any diseases, then there is a high probability that the infection will persist in the soil. They can only be saved by carrying out measures to disinfect the land, or changing the planting site..

Pest invasion after burrowing into the ground

Planting potatoes under hay, straw, or grass without first drying the covering material can lead to the colonization and reproduction of harmful microorganisms in it, which will have a detrimental effect on the planting material. Plus, there is a risk of mice settling under the covering material; this is one of the disadvantages of this planting method.

Tip #1. Young shoots can be destroyed by mole crickets, moles, as well as wireworms and beetle larvae that make passages and sometimes settle in the tubers themselves.

How to increase potato germination

Based on the reasons listed above that reduce the quality of potato seedlings, actions to improve them partially become clear. But in practice it is possible to use additional ways increasing the germination of planting material.

Methods	Description
Pre-germination (vernalization)	Traditionally, about a month before planting, the seed material is laid out in one layer (maximum two if there is not enough space) in a bright room with a temperature of 10-16°C. Usually for these purposes I use a veranda, loggia, summer buildings, where during the day the room is heated by the sun, and at night, if there is a threat of frost, the seeds can be covered. It is recommended to spray the seeds with water daily, but it is better to determine the required frequency of this procedure individually. There are many other ways to revive tubers: wet germination, in plastic bags and others.
Treatment with biological products	At the germination stage or immediately before planting, treat with humic fertilizers - preparations that improve seed germination.
Disinfection	The treatment is carried out followed by drying before planting with one of the following solutions: copper sulfate (0.011%), potassium permanganate (0.001%), boric acid (1%).
Careful sorting of planting material.	It is carried out before and after germination. Spoiled and diseased seeds are removed. Tubers with thick sprouts 2-3 cm are best suited for planting. It is recommended to plant small potatoes two in one hole.
Soil preparation	At traditional methods When planting soil in holes, the dug up soil must be harrowed or clods of earth must be broken up with a rake. In case of planting seeds under hay, straw, compost, covering material must first be dried. If necessary, organic fertilizers are applied.

Tubers with at least three well-developed thick sprouts no more than 1 cm long are suitable for planting. You can sprout potatoes in wooden boxes.

Tip #2. P It is better to prepare soil for planting in the fall. Autumn work includes digging, mulching, and applying organic fertilizers.

To improve seedlings and potato yield in general, the method is now often used natural farming: There is no digging with turning over layers of earth. Fertility and improved structure are achieved by constant mulching with grass. Preparation before planting includes harrowing or loosening followed by digging a hole or furrow for seeds or seedlings.

How does germination in a greenhouse differ from open ground?

Planting potato seeds in a greenhouse or hotbed can not only improve the quality of seedlings, but also contribute to greater yields than when planted in open ground. Factors that determine the difference in the emergence of seedlings in greenhouse conditions from open ground:

The possibility of earlier planting of seeds contributes to the emergence of seedlings earlier than planting outdoors.
The risk of destruction of planted tubers by insects is reduced.
Low disease threshold, subject to careful seed selection.
It is possible to create a certain temperature and light regime, eliminating the threat of frost, and being able to maintain the required humidity.

In greenhouse conditions, the growth and development of the plant is affected by fewer unfavorable environmental factors, so planted seeds in most cases produce 100% germination.

What questions do gardeners most often encounter when growing potatoes?

Question No. 1. Is it necessary to carry out any preparation of potato tubers before planting?

Seed preparation, if possible, will certainly play a big role. For example, potatoes that have not been germinated in advance can sprout, but this process will take longer and it is not a fact that sprouting will be uniform. On the contrary, potatoes laid out a month before planting in a bright and warm place will begin to sprout even before they hit the ground. In addition, during this time, healthy and diseased seeds will outwardly manifest themselves, which will make it possible to pre-sort them.

Question No. 2. Is it possible to plant green potatoes?

Usually when hit sun rays A substance is formed in potatoes that causes the tubers to turn green. It is not recommended to use such a product, but, on the contrary, it is more suitable as a planting material. It is believed that such potatoes are more resistant to diseases, adverse weather conditions, and are also protected from rodent invasion.

Question No. 3. Is it better to plant potatoes with long shoots or small ones?

Often when storing potato seeds in a cellar or other damp places it begins to germinate earlier than necessary due to the onset of above-zero temperatures. As a result, by the time of planting, you can get long, thin sprouts more than 10 cm long. But as a result of the lack of sufficient sunlight, the sprouts turn out to be curved, weak and brittle. It is advisable to monitor their occurrence and initial stage remove carefully. It is better to plant when the eyes have just begun to move or when there are strong shoots of short length.

Question No. 4. What primarily affects the germination and subsequent quality of potatoes?

The very first step in preparing to plant potatoes is choosing the right seeds. They must be collected from healthy bushes. You can also purchase healthy, virus-free material from the manufacturer. Sufficient attention should be paid to how the tubers were stored in winter. .

Not only is it assessed appearance, but also on the cut, where there may be signs of damage by various diseases. Presence and condition of eyes. It is also worth choosing varieties suitable for growing in a given climate. The second stage will be preparing the soil, and maybe even just choosing a planting method. Because now they are increasingly moving away from traditional digging of the garden.

Question No. 5. Do I need to water potatoes immediately after planting?

Here it depends on the situation, everything depends on the climate zone, soil composition, planting time. As a rule, seeds are planted in April-May, when the soil has not yet lost moisture from melt water. Therefore, with this approach, watering during planting is not necessary. It would be advisable, in the absence of rain, to water a few days after planting. Later sowing assumes that the soil is already sufficiently dry, so rain or watering will be required to revive the seeds in the ground.

The most common mistakes that lead to deterioration of potato seedlings

Skip the sprouting step for potatoes before planting. This means planting seeds that have not revived after winter and which do not know how they will behave in the soil. Store-bought potatoes, for example, may be processed and not sprout at all.
Choosing a place for germination. WITH winter storage Potatoes intended for planting are obtained in about a month, at least two weeks. Place them in a well-lit place, because if there is not enough light, the sprouts will be long and weak. At the same time, the room where the seeds are to be germinated should not be hot. Otherwise, the tubers may dry out greatly and, as a result, lose strength for the further development of the plant.
Selecting a site for planting where the predecessors were nightshades: peppers, tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes themselves. In addition to tired soil, you can also get diseases that are common to these plants.

How many days does it take for potatoes to sprout after planting? What do we know about potatoes (interesting facts) How many varieties of potatoes are known in the world? (More than 3400.) What should be the average weight of seed tubers? (50–80 g) At what soil temperature should potatoes not be planted? (Below +7...+8 °C.) At what negative temperature air, the tops begin to turn black? (From –1 to –1.5 °C.). At what depth should tubers be planted? (For clay soils– 6–8 cm, for sandy loam 10–12 cm.) How many days do tubers usually germinate before planting? (30–35.) At what temperature is it best to germinate tubers? (8–14 °C.) How many days after planting do potato shoots usually appear? (After 20–30.) How many days after germination does flowering begin? (After 30–40.) How many days after planting do the early varieties harvest? (After 55–65.) How many days after planting do late varieties harvest? (More than 110.) What is the average potato yield in Russia? (250–300 c/ha.) How many stems does a potato bush usually consist of (4–5, less often 6–8.) How many days before harvesting is it recommended to remove the tops? (For 10–14.) What is it like optimal distance between rows and between tubers when planting manually? (70 cm and 30–40 cm.) If planting has to be done in parts of the tuber, what minimum mass should they have? (30 g.) How many eyes should there be on the cut part of the seed tuber? (1–2.) On average, how many buckets of potatoes are needed for planting on one hundred square meters? (3.) At what temperature is it best to store potatoes? (+5–7 °C.) At what temperature do the tubers develop a sweet taste? (+1–2 °C.) How long after the emergence of seedlings is the first hilling carried out? How long after the first hilling is the second hilling carried out? (Some tricks of growing potatoes) Potatoes are grown by all rural residents and many city dwellers. It is believed that it is easy to grow and everyone knows how to do it. In practice, potatoes actually grow almost everywhere; they are not as demanding as other types of root crops and caring for them is not very difficult. This is true, but what kind of potatoes will grow, what kind of harvest will be and at what time is often not taken into account, but in vain, your work must be appreciated and, in addition, the profitability of your farm and a very pleasant feeling of satisfaction with the results of your efforts depend on this. Everyone is accustomed to the fact that planted potatoes will sprout on the 21st day, will grow until autumn, and are harvested in September. This is traditional, with everyone together and of course there is no sales (mass cleaning is underway), there is no normal price, the income is either meager or zero. But if you work thoughtfully and diligently, you can have a completely different result. Do you want to grow an excellent harvest, harvest it in June, sell it at a good price and make a profit? I see you want it. Then be patient and read this page to the end. How to grow early potatoes. The site is selected on a hill that dries out earlier than others in the spring. The composition is better than loam. In the spring, add potassium and phosphorus. Early and mid-early varieties are taken. Germinate at a temperature of 12-15 degrees in 30-35 days. You can germinate in the light or in the basement with electric lighting, while the tubers are laid out in 2-3 layers. Every week, spray with copper sulfate, boric acid or potassium permanganate (m. vitriol - 2 g per 10 liters of water, b. acid - 50 g per 10 liters of water, potassium permanganate - 10 g per 10 liters of water). Tubers with short thick shoots are ready for planting. If germination has not been carried out, then a week before planting, you can keep the potatoes in a bright room at a temperature of 15 degrees to warm up. It is better to plant whole tubers - 70-80g (chicken egg), but you can also cut them, leaving 2-3 sprouts on each part. Cut 2-3 days before planting. Disinfect cutting knives (potassium permanganate) or heat them on fire for 10 seconds. Planting in late April - early May at a soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm equal to 8 degrees Celsius. If there is a threat of frost, hill up (you can fill up completely, it will break through). With a height of 10-12 cm, it is necessary to carry out hilling and loosening of row spacing. A month after planting, feed the sulfate with ammonium (25 g per sq. m.) or urea (12 g. per sq. m.). At the beginning of budding, the second feeding (potassium 30-50g per 10 liters of water). Cleaning can begin at the end of June. Completely harvest before August 1. After harvesting, for 10-15 days, green the potatoes in the light, which will be used for seeds. It is strictly forbidden to green food products. If you do everything as written, you will be in grief. Act with God! After planting potatoes, there is no need to worry at first; we all know that potatoes take a long time to sprout, and we just need to wait. But when there are still no shoots, you involuntarily begin to worry: is everything okay? Our relatives had a real case when the potatoes did not sprout at all! So, when should we expect potato sprouts to appear, why are they not friendly and why did our relatives’ potatoes not sprout... The dependence of the emergence of potato sprouts on soil temperature or When to plant potatoes? The most important factor in the successful emergence of potato seedlings is the soil temperature. If the soil has warmed up at a depth of 10-12 cm to 7..8 degrees (the average daily temperature is usually +8 degrees) - you can start planting potatoes. Of course, not All gardeners check the soil temperature with a thermometer in their hands. You can trust folk signs, or rather, natural conventional signs. For example, the time of flowering and blooming of perennial plants. When to plant potatoes? According to popular wisdom, we begin planting as soon as the leaves on the birch tree become the size of a penny coin. Signs of soil warming and natural indicators for the start of sowing - in THIS ARTICLE When will potato seedlings appear? When the soil warms up to +10 degrees, potato seedlings appear in 23-25 days. At a soil temperature of 18-20 degrees, seedlings appear in 10-20 days. Sprouted potatoes sprout 6-10 days earlier. If planting occurs early, there is no need to bury the tubers, they will “sit” for a long time, the upper layers warm up faster, and if planted shallowly, the potatoes will sprout faster. If the soil moisture is more than 75%, planting potatoes is not advisable , in such conditions there is a high probability of tubers being damaged by putrefactive diseases. Why are there uneven shoots? There are several reasons for the appearance of uneven seedlings: Different planting depths. The soil warms up unevenly - and those tubers that are closer to the surface sprout earlier, those that lie deeper wait for warmer weather. Planting tubers of different sizes. Unevenly sprouted tubers, or not sprouted at all. A mixture of varieties of different ripening periods, with different dormant periods. You've probably noticed that each variety behaves differently during storage. Much depends on the rest period. Those varieties in which it is short are in no way intended for long-term storage, only for processing (for example, for chips). But there are also well-stored varieties - their dormant period is quite long. If you have a mixture of varieties, it is quite possible that seedlings will appear at different times. Can potatoes not sprout at all? Quite, our relatives had such a sad experience. And the whole issue turned out to be improper storage of planting material. The planting potatoes were stored in the cellar, as always, but... they were not poured out of white synthetic bags. So it stood in them until spring. Everything seemed to be fine, they planted potatoes, but they still didn’t see any shoots. Such negligence cost a lot of money and nerves; at the beginning of summer I had to look for new potatoes and plant them again. But now we all have a lesson - we try not to leave potatoes in white bags even for a short time and always remember this incident. Caring for potatoes after planting: detailed instructions HERE How many days should potato shoots appear? poligrafovna 2 years ago krusu 2 years ago I noticed that if I plant in warm, damp soil, then after a week and a half the potatoes sprout normally. But at the same time, the planting material itself should be normal; if you harden the potatoes before planting for at least two weeks, then they will grow much better and suffer less. the author of the question chose this answer as the best commentfktif 2 years ago It all depends on the soil, the depth of planting of the tuber, humidity, ambient temperature, the seeds themselves (variety), the length of the sprouted eyes. In general, there are quite a lot of factors, on average it will germinate in one or two weeks and then unevenly, somewhere it will sprout, somewhere later, then you need to harrow, hill up, collect beetles - you won’t get around to it. And without manure, peas will grow, not potatoes. And if you sprinkle chemical fertilizers from the store, a large one will grow, but with nitrates. commentLarca more than a month ago We plant potatoes in late April - early May. And it happens that potatoes planted in April “sit” in the ground longer than those planted in May. Factors that come into play here are: warming up of the soil and air, humidity and variety. If the soil is well warmed up and moistened, and the vernalization of potatoes is carried out correctly, then expect potato seedlings to emerge in about 10 days. If you planted “like everyone else,” then in 2-3 weeks you should shoots will appear. comment Potatoes, correct landing tubers, care after planting When to plant potatoes correctly Tubers are planted when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm reaches 7-8 degrees. Usually in the Moscow region this happens in early May. A delay in planting potatoes entails a 30% loss of yield. Well-sprouted tubers for early potatoes can be planted a little earlier - at a soil temperature of 5-6 degrees. Experience shows that such early planting in insufficiently warmed soil gives a greater harvest than late planting in warmed soil. Potatoes are planted on a flat surface, and on waterlogged and heavy soils - in ridges. With this planting, the soil warms up better and more air flows to the tubers. Distance between rows of potatoes when planting Before planting, in order to evenly place the plants on the area, the area should be marked. To do this, use a marker to make shallow grooves along which the planting is carried out. For the first pass of the marker, pull the cord along which its outermost tooth is guided. You can plant tubers directly under the cord, but this is less convenient and takes more time. To increase productivity after planting, the soil can be mulched (sprinkled with a 2-3 cm layer of peat). The optimal distance between rows of potatoes for early-ripening varieties is 70-75 cm, for late-ripening varieties - 80-90 cm. Planting density depends on the size of potato tubers. Small ones are planted after 18-20 cm, medium and large ones after 26-28 cm. Tubers are planted on heavy soils to a depth of 6-8 cm, on light soils - 8-10 cm, counting the distance from the soil surface to the tuber. With such planting, approximately 350 large tubers, 450 medium ones, 500 and smaller ones will be required per hundred square meters. Caring for potatoes after planting Caring for potatoes mainly comes down to keeping the soil loose and eliminating weeds. Harrowing potatoes. The first harrowing is carried out 4-5 days after planting. Then two or three more before germination and one or two after the plants appear on the surface. Typically, 16-28 days pass from planting to germination. Loosening and hilling potatoes. After the rows are well defined and the plants have sprouted so much that it is impossible to harrow, they begin to loosen the rows. The first time the soil is loosened deeply - by 12-14 cm, and the second and third shallower - by 6-8 cm. When the plants reach a height of 12-15 cm, the first hilling is carried out, with a ridge height of 15-20 cm. The second time the potatoes are earthed up before by closing the tops. Feeding potatoes after planting. Before loosening the rows and hilling, it is advisable to feed the plants. This is especially important for mid-season and late potato varieties. It is enough to carry out two feedings. The first time, you can pour two handfuls of humus under each bush with the addition of two teaspoons of ammonium nitrate, or add two handfuls of ash mixed with the same amount of earth, or add 15 g of chicken droppings. For the second feeding, dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of superphosphate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska. The plants are watered at the roots with this solution, and then watered with clean water. Keep in mind that fertilizing is given only during the initial development of plants. After flowering, they lead to late ripening of tubers and the accumulation of nitrates in them. Potatoes under mulch If there is a lack of moisture, potatoes are watered in furrows or by sprinkling. Drought 2-3 weeks after emergence, during the appearance of buds and in early August, when the tubers are growing, can significantly reduce the yield. After watering, the soil must be loosened so that a crust does not form. Advice: To avoid damaging the potatoes, keep in mind that in hot and dry weather you should not carry out deep loosening around the bushes or hill up the plants. This leads to dehydration and overheating of the soil, stops the growth of tubers and contributes to the emergence of diseases. During drought, shallow loosening of row spacing is sufficient.