DIY “Cyclone” filter from plastic buckets. DIY cyclone (dust collector) in the workshop DIY cyclone from scrap materials drawings

About filters.
The cyclone filter does not retain more than 97% of dust. Therefore, additional filters are often added to them. From English “HEPA” is translated as “High Efficiency Particulate Air” - a filter for particles contained in the air.

Agree that even you cannot imagine your life without such necessary equipment like a vacuum cleaner? They cope not only with dust, but also with dirt.

Of course, vacuum cleaners can be used not only at home, but they also come in different types: battery-powered, washing, and pneumatic. As well as automobile, low-voltage industrial, backpack, gasoline, etc.

Operating principle of a cyclone vacuum cleaner

James Dyson is the first creator of the cyclone vacuum cleaner. His first creation was G-Force in 1986.

A little later in the 1990s, he submitted a request to manufacture cyclone devices and had already assembled his own center for the creation of vacuum cleaners. In 1993, his first vacuum cleaner, known as the Dayson DC01, went on sale.
So, how does this miracle work? cyclone type?

It appears that the creator, James Dyson, was a remarkable physicist. Thanks to centrifugal force, it is involved in collecting dust.

The device has two chambers and is divided into two types - external and internal. The air that spins inside the dust collector moves upward, as if in a spiral.

According to the law, large dust particles fall into the outer chamber, and everything else remains in the inner chamber. And the purified air leaves the dust collector through filters. Here's how cyclone filter vacuum cleaners work.

Vacuum cleaners with a cyclone filter, features

Do not opt for those models that require little power. You will definitely not like this kind of cleaning and most likely, you will want to throw away such a device.

Don't waste your money, but take a more serious approach to buying a vacuum cleaner. You just have to contact the sales consultant and he will help you with choosing a particular vacuum cleaner.

You should choose a device that is 20-30% more powerful than a bagged vacuum cleaner. It is best to take the one with a power of 1800 W. Almost all vacuum cleaner manufacturers produce models with this filter, which is good news.

Advantages of cyclone dust collectors

1. This has probably happened to everyone, when an item you accidentally needed ended up in the dust collector? Now this is not a problem because it is transparent! And you will always be able to notice objects that need to be pulled out of there as quickly as possible.

This is one of the most important advantages.

2. The power of such vacuum cleaners is maximum and does not reduce speed and power, even when the container is clogged. Cleaning is much more enjoyable, power does not drop, cleaning is cleaner.

This vacuum cleaner is capable of holding much more than you imagine. Up to 97%!!! Not likely, right? Although some are dissatisfied with this result, as they prefer vacuum cleaners with a water filter.

3. When buying a cyclone vacuum cleaner, you not only do bargain purchase, but also save space for storing it, since its weight is quite light. You won't have to carry heavy weights.

4. There is no need to constantly change paper bags for the vacuum cleaner.

5. Power. She is not lost from fullness.

6. It can be washed thoroughly with water and dried.

Disadvantages of cyclone dust collectors

1. One of the disadvantages of these vacuum cleaners is not very pleasant. This is washing and cleaning the filter. Of course, you won’t have to clean the container with a brush every day, but still, this is one of the disadvantages. Laziness is present in every person. Yes, of course it’s unpleasant to face the fact that you need to get your hands dirty.

2. Noise. The noise from this type of vacuum cleaner is much greater than from a regular one.

3. Energy consumption. It is also much higher than that of a conventional vacuum cleaner. It's a small tornado.

It's up to you to decide whether to buy this little miracle or not. In fact, all its advantages outweigh its few shortcomings. A clean house is much nicer than a half-finished tidy, wouldn’t you agree?

Personal impressions

Compared to the old vacuum cleaner, cyclone dust collector It looks quite modest in size. It is impossible to believe that such a little thing is capable of something serious. Now the old vacuum cleaner can only be used for wet cleaning.

When I use it for the first time, I take out the accessories, insert a small diameter pipe, turn on the device, and what’s really surprising is that the brush cleans the carpets much better than my previous assistant.

He cleans everything. Dirt, hair from our pets. Previously, you had to make a lot of effort to cope with such “now little things”.

In my hallway laminated coating and it cleaned up just as easily. The fact is that I have another brush in stock, tougher than the previous one for carpets, so I coped with this task so easily. You know, the sound of this vacuum cleaner is not as loud as they wrote about it on the Internet.

I am pleased with this device because it is light and not so loud. I also liked the compartment for storing all the necessary attachments; it is very convenient that it is built into the vacuum cleaner itself.

Once I knew what this little tornado could do, it was time to clean out the container. Thank God, when I started emptying the dust collector, it fell in dense, large clumps.

Since the debris was compacted by the air flow. No clouds of dust were visible, and it did not rise into the air! So I finished my first cleaning with my cyclone vacuum cleaner. I rinsed the container and that was the end of the cleaning!

Cyclone for vacuum cleaner photo

All vacuum cleaners are designed for one purpose - cleanliness. It's about about all vacuum cleaners
Industrial and construction vacuum cleaners are usually used on machines or for cleaning any premises. These vacuum cleaners are quite expensive, since the operating principle of the cyclone filter vacuum cleaner must be selected carefully.
You should also know that most often industrial devices used in repairs and construction. Leave yours workplace needs to be clean.

DIY cyclone, from transparent plastic video

Construction work is carried out after preparing it and cleaning the surface. As you understand, General cleaning impossible to do with a regular vacuum cleaner. In other words, this is fraught with damage to the device.
Even small debris such as sand, oil, dry mixtures, powdered abrasives and wood shavings are designed only for an industrial vacuum cleaner.
If you suddenly go to choose a vacuum cleaner for construction work, then be sure to specify the types of pollution that it will encounter.
Are you planning to use a vacuum cleaner in a repair environment? Then consider the DIY cyclone vacuum cleaner option. There are many examples of how you can make this kind of vacuum cleaner.

DIY cyclone for vacuum cleaner

1. In order to make such a vacuum cleaner yourself, you will need a Ural PN-600 Vacuum Cleaner, a plastic bucket (even suitable for paint), a pipe 20 cm long and 4 cm in diameter.
2. The nameplate is also unscrewed, and the holes need to be sealed.
3. The pipe is quite thick and will not fit into the hole, so you need to grind off the rivets using a grinder and remove the pipe fastenings. Before doing this, remove the springs with clamps. Wrap electrical tape around the plug and insert it onto the plug.
4. At the bottom, make a hole in the middle with a drill. Then expand it to 43 mm with a special tool.
5. To seal it, cut out gaskets with a diameter of 4 mm.
6. Then you need to put everything together, the bucket lid, gasket, centering pipe.
7. Now we need self-tapping screws 10 mm long and 4.2 mm in diameter. You will need 20 self-tapping screws.
8. Cut a hole from the side of the bucket along the suction pipe. The cutout angle should be 10-15 degrees.
9. We try on and edit the shape of the hole using special scissors that cut for metal.
10. Don’t forget that you need to try on the inside too. Also leave strips on the inside for self-tapping screws.
11. Using a marker, mark the hole in the bucket and trim off the excess material with scissors. Attach the pipe to the outside of the bucket.
12. To seal everything you need to use a 30x bandage. From an ordinary first aid kit and glue like “titanium” for polystyrene foam. Wrap a bandage around the pipe and soak it with glue. Preferably more than once!
13. While the glue is drying, you can check how this vacuum cleaner will work. Turn on the vacuum cleaner and load it, blocking the nozzle with your palm. When checking the operation of the vacuum cleaner, the process of sealing and connection with the pipe is improved. It is unlikely that he will soon become obsolete.
14. It is best to store the vacuum cleaner in a case.

Today we will tell you about a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner in the workshop, because one of the problems that we have to deal with when working with wood is dust removal. Industrial equipment It’s quite expensive, so we’ll make a cyclone with our own hands - it’s not difficult at all.

What is a cyclone and why is it needed?

In a workshop there is almost always a need to remove fairly large debris. Sawdust, small trimmings, metal shavings - all this, in principle, can be caught by a regular vacuum cleaner filter, but it is highly likely to quickly become unusable. In addition, it will not be superfluous to be able to remove liquid waste.

The cyclone filter uses aerodynamic vortex to bind debris different sizes. Spinning in a circle, the debris manages to stick together to such a consistency that it can no longer be carried away by the air flow and settles at the bottom. This effect almost always occurs if the air flow passes through a cylindrical container at sufficient speed.

These types of filters are included in many industrial vacuum cleaners, but their cost is by no means affordable for the average person. At the same time, the range of problems solved using homemade devices, not at all anymore. A homemade cyclone can be used both in conjunction with planes, hammer drills or jigsaws, and for removing sawdust or shavings from various types of machine tools. In the end, even simple cleaning with such a device is much easier, because the bulk of dust and debris settles in a container, from where it can be easily removed.

Difference between wet and dry cyclone

To create a swirling flow, the main requirement is that the air entering the container does not follow the shortest path to the exhaust hole. To do this, the inlet pipe must have a special shape and be directed either to the bottom of the container or tangentially to the walls. Using a similar principle, it is recommended to make the exhaust duct rotary, optimally if it is directed towards the cover of the device. height aerodynamic drag due to pipe bends can be neglected.

As already mentioned, a cyclone filter has the potential to remove liquid waste as well. With liquid, everything is somewhat more complicated: the air in the pipe and cyclone is partially rarefied, which promotes the evaporation of moisture and its breaking into very small droplets. Therefore, the inlet pipe must be located as close as possible to the surface of the water or even lowered under it.

Most washing vacuum cleaners introduce air into the water through a diffuser, so any moisture contained in it is effectively dissolved. However, for greater versatility with a minimum number of alterations, it is not recommended to use such a scheme.

Made from scrap materials

The simplest and affordable option for the cyclone container there will be a bucket of paint or other building mixtures. The volume should be comparable to the power of the vacuum cleaner used, approximately one liter for every 80-100 W.

The bucket lid must be intact and fit tightly onto the body of the future cyclone. It will have to be modified by making a couple of holes. Regardless of the material of the bucket, the easiest way to make holes is required diameter- use a homemade compass. IN wooden slats you need to screw in two self-tapping screws so that their tips are at a distance of 27 mm from each other, no more, no less.

The centers of the holes should be marked 40 mm from the edge of the cover, preferably so that they are as far apart as possible. Both metal and plastic can be scratched perfectly with this homemade instrument, forming smooth edges with virtually no burrs.

The second element of the cyclone will be a set of sewer elbows at 90º and 45º. Let us draw your attention in advance that the position of the corners must correspond to the direction of air flow. Their fastening in the housing cover is carried out according to the following scheme:

The elbow is inserted all the way into the side of the socket. Silicone sealant is first applied under the side.
WITH reverse side The rubber sealing ring is pulled tightly onto the socket. To be sure, you can additionally compress it with a screw clamp.

The inlet pipe is located with a narrow rotating part inside the bucket, the bell is located with outside almost flush with the lid. The knee needs to be given another 45º turn and directed obliquely downwards and tangentially to the wall of the bucket. If the cyclone is manufactured with the expectation of wet cleaning, you should increase the outer elbow with a piece of pipe, reducing the distance from the bottom to 10-15 cm.

The exhaust pipe is located in the reverse position and its socket is located under the bucket lid. You also need to insert one elbow into it so that air is taken from the wall, or make two turns for suction from under the center of the lid. The latter is preferable. Don’t forget about the O-rings; for a more reliable fixation and to prevent the knees from turning, you can wrap them with plumber’s tape.

How to adapt the device for machines and tools

To be able to draw in waste when using hand-held and stationary tools, you will need a system of adapters. Typically, a vacuum cleaner hose ends in a curved tube, the diameter of which is comparable to the fittings for dust bags of power tools. As a last resort, you can seal the joint with several layers of double-sided mirror tape wrapped in vinyl tape to eliminate stickiness.

With stationary equipment everything is more complicated. Dust extraction systems have very different configurations, especially for homemade machines, so we can only give a few useful recommendations:

If the machine's dust extractor is designed for a 110 mm or larger hose, use plumbing adapters with a 50 mm diameter to connect the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner.
To connect homemade machines to a dust catcher, it is convenient to use press fittings for 50 mm HDPE pipes.
When designing the dust collector housing and outlet, take advantage of the convection flow created by the tool's moving parts for greater efficiency. For example: a pipe for removing sawdust from circular saw must be directed tangentially to the saw blade.
Sometimes it is necessary to provide dust extraction from different sides workpiece, for example, for band saw or a router. Use 50 mm sewer tees and corrugated drain hoses.

Which vacuum cleaner and connection system to use

Usually, you don’t choose a vacuum cleaner for a homemade cyclone yourself, but use the one that is available. However, there are a number of limitations beyond the power mentioned above. If you want to continue using the vacuum cleaner for domestic purposes, then at a minimum you will need to find an additional hose.

The beauty of the sewer elbows used in the design is that they ideally match the diameter of the most common hoses. Therefore, the spare hose can be safely cut into 2/3 and 1/3, the shorter section should be connected to the vacuum cleaner. The other, longer piece, as is, is tucked into the socket of the cyclone inlet pipe. The maximum that is required in this place is to seal the connection silicone sealant or plumber's tape, but usually the planting density is quite high. Especially if there is an o-ring.

The video shows another example of making a cyclone for dust removal in a workshop

To pull a short piece of hose onto the exhaust pipe, the outermost part of the corrugated pipe will have to be leveled. Depending on the diameter of the hose, it may be more convenient to tuck it inside. If the straightened edge does not fit slightly onto the pipe, it is recommended to warm it a little with a hairdryer or indirect flame gas burner. The latter is considered an excellent option, because this way the connection will be located optimally in relation to the direction of the moving flow.

When working in a workshop or at home grinding tool, when processing parts and preparing surfaces, there is a need to remove fine dust. And, of course, it is advisable to reduce its concentration even during work by organizing local constant air purification at the workplace.

At enterprises, this problem is solved by installing filter units with a cyclone, which collects and sediments dust with the required efficiency.

In our case it is enough make a vacuum cleaner with a cyclone, thereby saving on the purchase of a construction vacuum cleaner, where such a function is provided by the manufacturer.

The principle of operation of a homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter

There are several options for manufacturing a cyclone for household needs. To decide on the most effective scheme operation of the equipment, you should know the operating principle of this filter.

Cyclone in classic version It is a cylinder and a cone, in the upper part of which there is an inlet for polluted air and an outlet for purified air.

The inlet is made so that the air enters the filter tangentially, forming a rotating flow directed towards the equipment cone (down).

Inertial forces act on pollutant particles and carry them out of the flow to the walls of the apparatus, where dust settles.

Under the influence of gravity and secondary flow, the mass deposited on the walls moves towards the cone and is removed into the receiving hopper. The purified air rises up along the central axis and is discharged through a pipe located strictly in the center of the upper platform of the cyclone.

Required condition effective cleaning air is the exact calculation of the apparatus and the tightness of the cyclone, including in relation to the receiving hopper.

Otherwise, the principle of operation is disrupted and chaotic air movement occurs, preventing dust from settling normally.

In addition, it is necessary to select a motor that sucks in contaminated air, which will ensure optimal operating parameters of the equipment.

Homemade filter for a construction vacuum cleaner, the variants of which are offered on the Internet cannot be called a full-fledged cyclone.

The most simple circuit Such equipment is a plastic barrel with an embedded inlet pipe tangentially, a built-in filter from a car inside the “cyclone” body, through which purified air is removed and to which a household vacuum cleaner is connected.

The disadvantages of the equipment are the absence of a formed flow swirling along the walls of the barrel and a laminar return flow.

In essence, we get an additional capacity for settling large particles (sawdust, shavings), and fine dust will clog the filter at the outlet, and will require constant cleaning.

To improve the design, we suggest adding a plastic barrel homemade cyclone made from a traffic cone. It is best if the work is carried out over several hours, install stationary option equipment for removing dust from the workplace.

In this case we need a radial household fan. And with a one-time connection of the cyclone, it is enough to use a regular vacuum cleaner with adjustable suction power.

Sometimes an additional rheostat is installed to reduce the rotation speed of the vacuum cleaner engine, thereby selecting the parameters necessary for normal functioning filter.

In the following sections of the article we will present you with two options for a cyclone for domestic use.

Selection of equipment - what is needed for work

For the first design option for a permanent installation, you will need the following components:

Plastic barrel;
Gray plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
Traffic cone;
Corrugated hoses, reinforced with steel wire or metallized hoses;
Adhesive for plastic;
Radial household fan with the ability to change the engine speed and performance equal to six times the exchange of air in the room;
Plywood 10-12 mm thick.

The second version of the product is the most successful, since in this case the product approaches the functionality of a real cyclone.

To make a filter you will need to purchase:

Ready-made plastic cyclone made in China;
A barrel, bucket or other container for making a dust bin;
Corrugated hoses.

A plastic cyclone is inexpensive, approximately 1500-2500 rubles, and is designed to collect medium and heavy dust. Works great with shavings and sawdust.

Step-by-step instructions for the cyclone assembly process

Our first option is a stationary design for workshops with large amounts of dust of various origins.

Assembling a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner

First we make the cyclone itself. We make a hole in the plastic cone to allow the sewer pipe to pass tangentially.
For better connection The mating surface of the pipe with the cone body is matted with emery cloth. We glue the seams using a mounting gun.
In the upper part of the cone we install a vertical pipe, the lower end of which should be below the inlet. In this way we can achieve vortex air movement. The pipe is fixed in a plywood sheet in the shape of a circle with a diameter equal to the size of the base of the cone.
The prepared cyclone is secured to the barrel lid using a round plywood sheet.
To plastic barrel when the inlet pipe is clogged with debris, it does not deform under the influence of vacuum; inside the container we install a spacer - a frame made of plywood sheet. External dimensions the frames follow the inner diameter of the barrel. To strengthen the structure, we attach the construction cone to the lid of the container using metal pins.
Next, we connect the cyclone to the corrugated hoses at the inlet and outlet. We install a radial household fan outdoors under a canopy.

The second version of the construction vacuum cleaner is based on a Chinese plastic cyclone, which is also attached to any of the selected containers. The result is a reliable and efficient design.
The cyclone is attached to the container using a metal clamping flange.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

When starting the vacuum cleaner and further operation, do not forget to clean the inlet pipe and stop the internal spacers on the containers to prevent deformation of the receiving hopper.

If finer air purification is required, the design is supplemented with a car filter in the housing at the outlet of the product.

Article about how I did it homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone type filter. The performance of this useful homemade product for home You can appreciate it by watching a video of his work.

To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. In general, I am satisfied with the result of the work done (given that this is a working prototype layout, so to speak).

I’ll say right away: this article is a statement of my history of creating my first (and, I think, not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner, and I am in no way going to impose anything on anyone, prove or claim that the solutions described here are the only correct and error-free ones. Therefore, I ask you to be understanding, so to speak, “understand and forgive.” I hope mine little experience will be useful to “sick” people like me, for whom “a bad head does not give rest to their hands” (in the good sense of this expression).

I once thought about the upcoming renovation and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since it is necessary to groove, saw concrete and “perforate”, the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are designed anyway with a filter (in some models even with a special “shaker”) or a paper bag + filter, which gets clogged, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. And I just became interested in this topic, and a “pure sporting interest” appeared, so to speak. In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Pentz), I did it from what came to hand and according to my own instinct. By chance, I came across this vacuum cleaner on an advertisement website (for 1,100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit me - he will be a donor!

I decided to make the cyclone body itself metal, because there were strong doubts about how long the plastic walls would last under the influence of “sandpaper” from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbish rubs against its walls, and I didn’t want the future homemade vacuum cleaner threw sparks at its users. And personally, I think that dust accumulation due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.

The general scheme for constructing a vacuum cleaner is as follows:

The polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest goes through the car air filter, the engine and through the outlet pipe to the outside. It was decided to make a pipe for the outlet as well, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow you to use a vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something off. You can also use an additional hose to release the “exhaust” air outside so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests the idea of installing this unit as a “built-in” stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing dust around (blow with one hose, draw in with the other).

The air filter was chosen to be “flat”, not ring-shaped, so that when turned off, any debris that gets there falls into the garbage bin. If we take into account that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then its replacement will not be required soon as in usual construction vacuum cleaner with filter without cyclone. Moreover, the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles) is much cheaper than the “branded” ones that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with a regular household vacuum cleaner by connecting it to the inlet pipe of the “cyclone”. In this case, garbage will not be sucked out of the garbage disposal. The filter mount is made dismountable to simplify its cleaning and replacement.

A suitable tin can was very useful for the cyclone body, and the central pipe was made from a can of polyurethane foam.

The inlet pipe is made with plastic sewer pipe 50 mm into which the hose included in the vacuum cleaner is inserted quite tightly with an appropriate rubber coupling.

The second end of the pipe goes into a rectangle, so to speak, to “straighten” the flow. Its width was chosen based on the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L= (3.14*50 mm - 2*32)/2=46.5 mm. Those. pipe cross-section 32*46 mm.

I assembled the entire structure by soldering with acid and a 100-watt soldering iron (it was practically the first time I worked with tin, except for soldering boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)

The central pipe was soldered. The cone was made using a pre-fitted cardboard template.

The housing for the auto filter is also made using galvanized templates.

The upper part of the central pipe of the air duct was bent into the shape of a square and the lower hole of the autofilter housing (pyramid) was adjusted to it. Put it all together. I made three guides on the sides of the cyclone can to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is something like this “gravity”.

For the garbage disposal and engine compartment I used 2 barrels from machine oil(60 liters). A little big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued sponge rubber onto the contact surface of the garbage disposal to seal around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.

The “gravitapu” cyclone was secured with M10 studs and nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration. Here and further, all places where tightness is necessary were connected with rubber seal(or rubber washers) and auto sealant.

To connect the engine compartment and the garbage bin I used latches from the military wooden boxes(special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to ferment them a little in a solvent and “adjust” them with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).

After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure polyurethane foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe in case the need arises to take it apart. In addition, everything turned out quite tough and strong.

For ease of movement and carrying of the garbage bin, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container barrel has a flange at the bottom, to install the wheels it was necessary to make an additional “bottom” from a plastic sheet 10 mm thick. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not “squish” when the vacuum cleaner was running.

The base for attaching the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture “Euro-screws”. To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto epoxy (I think 4 would be enough). Painted it. I sealed the perimeter of the filter installation site with sponge rubber.

When assembling, I coated the neck of the autofilter housing around the perimeter with sealant and tightened it to the base with flat-headed self-tapping screws.

The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform distribution of air over the filter area, I used a router to select a 7 mm recess in the area.

To collect the exhaust air and mount the engine, the plastic engine compartment found in the vacuum cleaner was used. “Everything unnecessary” was cut off from it and the outlet pipe was glued onto epoxy reinforced with self-tapping screws. Everything is assembled together using sealant and using metal profile(thick sponge rubber is inserted into it) is pulled to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and filled with hot-melt adhesive for tightness. Nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration.

Thus, a removable motor module was obtained. For easy access to the auto filter, it is secured using eight wing nuts. The oversized washers are glued (the shrouds have not escaped).

I made a hole for the outlet pipe.

I painted the entire “pepelats” black from a spray can, after sanding and degreasing.

The engine speed controller used the existing one (see photo), adding to it homemade circuit to automatically start the vacuum cleaner when you turn on the power tool.

Explanations for the homemade vacuum cleaner diagram:

Automatic devices (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 protect, respectively, the circuits for connecting power tools (socket XS1) and the speed control circuit of the vacuum cleaner engine. When the tool is turned on, its load current flows through diodes VD2-VD4 and VD5. They were selected from the reference book due to the large voltage drop across them with forward current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let’s call it “positive”) half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges capacitor C1. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from damage due to overvoltage, which can occur, for example, due to a break (burnout) in the chain of diodes VD2-VD4. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to “save” the already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of capacitor C1 during the “negative” half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens optocoupler DA1, the thyristor of which is connected to the control circuit of the engine speed controller. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected with the same value as in the vacuum cleaner regulator board (it is removed) and is made remote (in the housing from the dimmer) for placement on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered in parallel to it. The “on/off” switch S2 in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 “automatic/manual”. IN manual mode control S1 is turned on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 is turned on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) – pins 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool, due to the large capacity of capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.

The automatic start circuit is assembled on breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and socket XS1 were selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak, for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and covered with PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.

To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3*2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with a grounding contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight static electricity). Considering the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner together with a power tool, the selected cable cross-section is sufficient not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3*4) is correspondingly heavier and rougher, which would create inconvenience when using the vacuum cleaner. It was decided to discard the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and power tool.

The top cover is secured with a pin and wing nut.

To make it easier to remove the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit via a connector. The motor housing and the vacuum cleaner are connected to a protective grounding conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.

In order to be able to insert a garbage bag into the garbage bin, the top edge was covered with a rubber door seal cut lengthwise.

To prevent the garbage bag from being sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks through leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.

The finalization and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place when the repairs had already begun, so to speak, in “combat” conditions. The traction, of course, is many times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for even a couple of minutes of working with construction waste. Relatively heavy concrete debris is almost completely deposited in the garbage container and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the garbage container. Dust from putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is less filtered by the cyclone, which forces you to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore no test was carried out for this function.

CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:

The resulting device eventually turned out to be functional and has already been tested during the renovation of one room. Now I consider it more like a working model from the “will it work or not for fun” series.

The main disadvantages of this design:

— relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room very easily on wheels. You can use 30 liter barrels for example. As operation has shown, such a large garbage bin is inconvenient to clean, and the bag with big amount debris may tear.

— the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, to 50 mm and a hose from an industrial vacuum cleaner can be used (but the question of price arises from 2000 rubles). Although even with the existing hose, the debris collects quite quickly, unless, of course, you try to pull in half a brick.

— it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for the additional auto filter and engine for more convenient and quick maintenance and cleaning.

— you can include a thermal relay in the control circuit (just determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.

Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by introducing a second stage of smaller cyclones.

In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this “pepelats”. And separate Thanks a lot my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.

I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.

If a person has his own workshop, then one of the most important issues is cleaning the premises. But unlike cleaning dust in an apartment, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner will not help here, since it is not designed for construction waste and sawdust - its garbage container (dust container or bag) will very quickly become clogged and become unusable. Therefore, they often use a homemade cyclone filter, which, together with a household vacuum cleaner, will help clean the workshop.

Introduction

Wood dust and other technical debris, although it seems harmless at first glance, actually pose many different dangers, both for the master and for the equipment. For example, prolonged work without protective equipment that prevents dust from entering the respiratory system can cause serious complications with the respiratory tract, impair the sense of smell, etc. In addition, a tool that is in the workshop under the influence of dust can quickly fail. This happens because:

dust, mixing with lubricant inside the tool, forms a mixture that is completely unsuitable for lubricating moving parts, which results in overheating and further damage
dust can make it difficult for the moving parts of the tool to rotate, which leads to additional stress, overheating and failure,
dust clogs the air ducts designed to ventilate the heated parts of the tool and remove heat from them, again resulting in overheating, deformation and failure.

Thus, the issue of the quality of removal of sawing products and, in general, cleaning of the premises is very acute. Modern power tools are equipped with systems for removing dust and chips directly from the sawing area, which prevents dust from spreading throughout the workshop. In any case, the dust removal process requires a vacuum cleaner (or chip cleaner)!

There are good industrial vacuum cleaners and if possible, it is better to choose the most best option price and quality and buy a construction vacuum cleaner.

However, there are cases when you already have a household vacuum cleaner and it is easier to upgrade it and solve the problem of collecting construction waste indoors. To do this, you need to use a cyclone filter - it can be done in half an hour if all the necessary elements are available.

Principle of operation

There are a great many different designs of cyclones, but they all share the same operating principle. All designs of cyclone chip suckers consist of three main parts:

Household vacuum cleaner
Cyclone filter
Waste collection container

Its design is such that the flow of intake air is directed in a circle and its rotational movement is obtained. Accordingly, the construction waste contained in this air flow (these are large and heavy fractions) is acted upon by a centrifugal force, which presses it against the walls of the cyclone chamber and, under the influence of gravity, it gradually settles in the tank.

The disadvantage of a cyclone vacuum cleaner is that in this way you can only collect dry garbage, but if there is water in the garbage, then there will be problems when sucking up such a substance.

The vacuum cleaner must be powerful enough, since in its normal mode of operation it is assumed that air is sucked through a standard hose. If an additional cyclone filter is used, an additional filter appears in the air path, and the total length of the air duct is more than doubled due to the additional air duct. Since the design is as maneuverable as a separate vacuum cleaner, the length of the last hose should be sufficient for comfortable work.

Preparatory work

As mentioned above, you can make a cyclone filter for a workshop in half an hour, but to do this you need to check the availability of everything necessary for the production of a chip blower with your own hands, namely: tools, materials and consumables.

Tools

To carry out the work, the following tools will be needed:

electric drill,
screwdriver,
jigsaw,
compass,
clamps,
Phillips screwdriver,
pencil,
on wood (50-60mm),
kit .

Materials and fasteners

Materials can be used both new and used, so carefully review the list below - you may already have something in stock;

The air duct (hose) for a vacuum cleaner is corrugated or in a textile braid.
A sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and a length of 100–150 mm, into one of the ends of which the air duct of your household vacuum cleaner should be inserted.
Sewer outlet 30 or 45 degrees, 100–200 mm long, into one end of which the air duct specified in paragraph 1 will be inserted.
Plastic bucket (“large”) 11-26 liters with a hermetically sealed lid.
Bucket (“small”) plastic 5-11 liters. Note. It is important that the difference between the two maximum diameters of the buckets is approximately 60–70 mm.
Sheet 15–20 mm thick. Note. The sheet size must be larger than the maximum diameter of the Large Bucket.
Wood screws with a flat wide head and a length of 2/3 of the thickness.
Universal gel sealant.

Table standard sizes round plastic buckets.

Volume, l	Cover diameter, mm	Height, mm
1,0	125	115
1,2	132	132
2,2	160	150
2,3	175	133
2,6	200	124
3,0	200	139
3,4	200	155
3,8	200	177
3,8	200	177
5,0	225	195
11	292	223
18	326	275
21	326	332
26	380	325
33	380	389

Making a cyclone filter

Creating a homemade chip sucker consists of a number of stages:

Creating a retaining ring and a shaped insert
Installing the Retaining Ring
Installing the side pipe
Top entry installation
Installing a shaped insert
Cyclone filter assembly

Creating a retaining ring and a shaped insert

It is necessary to cut off the side of a small bucket, which is used to attach the lid. The result should be a cylinder like this (well, slightly conical).

We make markings - place a small bucket on it and draw a line along the edge - we get a circle.

Then we determine the center of this circle (see. school course geometry) and mark another circle, the radius of which is 30 mm larger than the existing one. Then we mark the ring and the shaped insert, as shown in the figure.

Installing the Retaining Ring

We fix the ring on the edge of a small bucket so that we get a side. We fasten using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to pre-drill the holes to avoid splitting.

We mark the roof of a large bucket. To mark, you need to place the bucket itself on the lid of a large bucket and trace its outline. It is better to make markings with a felt-tip pen, as the mark is clearly visible.

It is important to note that all connections must be airtight; therefore, before installing the cover, the connection area must be coated with sealant. You also need to coat the junction of the wooden ring and the small bucket.

Installing the side pipe

The side pipe is made from a sewer outlet of 30 degrees (or 45 degrees). To install it, you need to drill a hole in the top of the small bucket with a crown. Notice that the top of the small bucket has now become its bottom.

Top entry installation

To make the upper input, you need to drill a hole in the upper part of the chip sucker (small bucket), that is, in the center of the former bottom.

To firmly fix the inlet pipe, use additional element strength in the form of a square piece of 20 mm thickness with a central hole for a 50 mm pipe.

This workpiece is fastened from below with four self-tapping screws. Before installation, the joint must be coated with sealant to ensure a tight seal.