DIY plywood punt drawings. DIY plywood boat drawings. Terminology. Characteristics of sheets. Operating conditions requirements. Dimensions. Materials for manufacturing can be

How to build a boat with your own hands

The project of the boat "Som" was adopted as the basic project. But I didn’t want to build a cabin version (although I may regret it). I really liked “Catfish” by Ivan Georgievich. The dimensions of the "Catfish" seemed a little small, and the length was increased by 200 mm. There are errors in the drawings and the model turned out crooked.

Rice. 1. This is the original version, which I liked from the side view, but the camber of the sides was very large, which could not satisfy me.

It took a long time, but in the end something worked out. Many people will ask: “How to make patterns?” The question is quite legitimate. But then my little brother came to the rescue. He builds paragliders (we started together when we were studying at the institute). He has a self-written program that draws scans using the triangulation method. They drove the body there and spun it around. Something happened. But there is no trust. Checked on Karen. The scans obtained in Karen were compared with the scans obtained using the brother's program. The discrepancies were no more than 0.1 mm. In short, we decided that such accuracy would completely satisfy us. My son glued together a model from an embossed LEGO box. It turned out well. The body was scaled to a length of 4.6 m and a width of 1.75 m.

Rice. 2. This is the final version that was accepted for production.

The drawings show the layout of the cockpit. The boat will be mainly used for rides and walks and to a lesser extent for fishing. Winter and spring passed in doubts and questions, the project became overgrown with drawings and diagrams. It's time to buy materials. My wife was completely upset, since I had been planning to build a boat all summer, but, being a wise woman, she even supported me to some extent. I bought plywood, epoxy, fiberglass, some tools and started work.

Rice. 3. Prepared materials and tools.

Joining the plywood miterwise did not become a problem; in two days 4 sheets of 4.8 m in length were glued together, because the patterns fit well without any waste along the length. The details of the bottom and sides are cut out. The question arose with the transom - you simply cannot buy an oak board on the market. I searched for a long time, but found where they sell it edged board required thickness. I cut out the transom parts and glued them together according to the following scheme - the outer layer is 8 mm. plywood, fiberglass layer, oak board, fiberglass layer, inner layer- 6 mm. plywood. It turned out a little hard. The oak board is heavy. But what's done is done. I didn’t want to redo it, and a safety margin never hurts.

Rice. 4. Glued sheets. It's simple.

Rice. 5. There’s the transom, it’s heavy, it’s a bastard.

But all this turned out to be nothing compared to the process of making everything. Now I understand that the number of frames was too much (don’t kick!), but then I wanted to make it stronger and more reliable. I fiddled with them for a long time, while I was cutting out all the parts, while I was gluing them, while I was screwing everything in - I thought I would throw everything to hell! Patience was running out, but pride did not allow me to give up everything. Work continued slowly but surely. When the last frame was assembled, I really wanted to get drunk as hell, but driving a car every day didn’t allow it.

Rice. 6. A couple of frames, we need to make 8 more pieces.

The long-awaited moment has arrived when the boat can begin to take shape. I started assembling the body. Of course, this process cannot be completed alone. Brotherhood was called to help. Assembling the bottom did not raise the slightest question - everything came together, twisted and fell apart with a bang!

Rice. 7. Bottom and transom. Everything came together as it should.

But I had to suffer with the sides. It was not possible to install both sides at the same time - very large details- impossible to hold. They began to make one side at a time. We started with the nose. Towards the stern we got a misalignment of 8 mm - well, I still think... well! We've arrived! The parts are either cut incorrectly or designed incorrectly! But my brother is a calmer person and suggested trying to position the second side from the stern. We tried it - everything fit millimeter to millimeter! So I think, therefore, the mistake is not in the details and drawings, but in crooked hands! The first board was removed and quickly reinstalled. Everything is up!

Rice. 8. Brother Mikhail adjusts the first side that was not installed correctly.

Beauty! When the hull was assembled, it became clear that the boat was big. Immediately, doubts began to overcome the correctness of the chosen dimensions; had he decided to build a very large boat? But there is nothing to do except continue to do so. My wife came, looked, figured out where she and her son would sit in the boat, and said that she liked it! Therefore, now I simply have to complete the job!

Rice. 9. Everything has been assembled so far only on twists; clamps are visible on the frames.

Rice. 10. Instead of the frame, slats are inserted to give the correct camber of the sides.

To get an estimate, I inserted the central frame (Fig. 9) - it fell into place as if it had been there. This gave me strength and confidence. Now we need to do along all the seams, as more experienced comrades advise. For the concept of how to mix everything - I mean, epoxy and aerosil, I had to make a small corner out of plywood. I prepared a special jar, poured epoxy acid, hardener and poured in Aerosil. Oh my, who knew that this aerosil flops around like water, and is ten times lighter in weight! In short, I interfered with this whole thing for about forty minutes - I was tired of it. Mixing Aerosil into the epoxy turned out to be a tedious task;

Rice. 11. Here’s a sample, here’s a fillet. Lighter for sizing.

But in the end everything got mixed up and the experimental sample was stitched and glued. The structure turned out to be quite strong - it was only broken by a blow from a dumbbell. The confidence that everything is possible has increased even more. Subsequently, a device made from a water bottle and a mixer was used to mix the epoxy and aerosil. After all the seams were coated, the body became somewhat stiffer, but still remained mobile.

Rice. 12. This device saves a lot of time when mixing epoxy resin and aerosil.

Rice. 13. The mixture resembles consistency mmmm...probably village sour cream, i.e. thick sour cream.

Rice. 14. On the right photo you can see the markings for installation.

It's time to glue the seams with fiberglass. It was not possible to find fiberglass tapes; we had to cut them from a roll. The task is also dreary, but I mastered it. After gluing, the rigidity of the body increased. Unfortunately, I don’t have photographs of this process. Working with epoxy resin is not conducive to photography. Gluing in frames is not a tricky task if there are no stringers.

I was supposed to install four stringers along the bottom (2 stringers per half of the bottom) and one stringer along the side. This is where the real problems began. Simultaneously bending 6 stringers and installing frames turned out to be very difficult. While the frames were being installed in the stern and central parts of the boat, everything was more or less normal. Then it came to the bow, where the bend of the sides and bottom became large. This is where I had to swear a lot and strongly, remembering with a “kind” word all this “sew and glue” technology. It was very difficult. It’s extremely difficult to say more precisely!

The three of us spent three days installing the bow frames. Covered with glue from head to toe. In short, it was concluded that large boats with stringers should be assembled only on a slipway using classical technology.

Rice. 15. This is what happened.

And, of course, there were some mistakes. When installing one of the bow frames, a skew was allowed and one side was squeezed out. These are the consequences of using the “sew and glue” technology - installing frames correctly is a very scrupulous task and cannot be rushed. The saddest thing is that this was discovered only when installing the upper part of the sides. The left side fit perfectly, without strong tightening or other tricks. The right side in the bow did not stand up, and only then the jamb was discovered.

Fig. 16. Here is such a "jamb". The bend in the side is clearly visible.

I had to disconnect the glued frame and reinstall it. I don’t want to dwell on this procedure in detail, but one thing can be said for sure - redoing it is always harder than doing it again. Especially when you do something for yourself that you love, i.e. conscientiously. Epoxy resin with Aerosil turned out to be a fairly strong connection. With the help of a chisel and “some mother” we managed to tear off the frame and move it to the correct place.

Rice. 17. As you can see, eventually the board straightened and the gap between the parts disappeared.

Further work proceeded like clockwork, although quite slowly due to the fact that I was working alone. After installing the part of the side filled inside, it was necessary to start making the fender beam. It was decided to make the fender beam external and strong. Therefore, there are no stringer sides inside at the junction of the parts. The role of the stringer will be performed by the fender, which will be made of oak. We purchased oak panels for doors with a section of 80x10 and a length of 2.3 m. Then I cut them in half with a jigsaw. It was from these slats that it was planned to make a fender beam.

Rice. 20. The locker turned out to be quite deep. Whether this is good or bad will be seen.

Puttying and sanding can be continued indefinitely. As with the deck, at a certain stage I simply finished this process.

Then it was possible to install redans. The redans were made from oak planks, which were used to make the fender beam. The slats were glued together, and then unraveled on a circular saw along a diagonal, so that a triangular cross-section was formed. Then the planer and draw frame finished the job.

Rice. 27. The boat is once again plastered.

Rice. 28. The bottom and sides are sanded and prepared for painting.

Next, using the same technology - holes for screws and adhesive are prepared in advance. Then we install redans according to the markings. After the resin has polymerized, remove the screws and fill the holes with epoxy resin. Then again sandpaper and putty.

Rice. 29. Boat after priming.

But, as they say, “patience and work will wear out everything.” Now the time has come for me to start painting the body. I want to say right away that a mistake was made in choosing the soil. The primer must be epoxy based, but I used the one recommended in the store. Primer and paint are Tikkurilov. According to the seller, the paint is very durable and hard. When installing the boat on the trailer, it turned out that this was not at all the case. But more on that later.

I painted everything using a compressor and a spray gun. It took 1 kg to paint. soil and 3 kg. MIRANOL paints produced by Tikkurilla. The results were more or less acceptable. The paint applied more or less evenly, and a large number of smudges were avoided. But it couldn’t have been done without them, due to the lack of experience and probably the wrong nozzle diameter on the sprayer. The work of a painter requires good experience, which of course I don't have. Although my conclusions do not mean that you shouldn’t take on what you don’t know how to do - if you don’t do anything, then nothing will work out.

Rice. 30. Painting.

When I took on the boat, I assumed that I would spend no more than 1.5-2 years on it. How wrong I was! By the end of the second summer, I only managed to paint the bottom, and there is still painting of the deck, arrangement of the interior, installation of glass, instruments, etc. ahead. and so on. Of course, if you count the pure time spent on construction, it doesn’t turn out to be much, but the boat is still not fully completed.

Time cannot stop running and the second autumn of construction has inexorably arrived. But the fuss with the boat was not finished yet. In the summer, a trailer was purchased, on which the “dig” was mounted.

I have long wanted to create a record marking the main points in the manufacture of a boat, but it never worked out! Dad is getting older every year, but there are still no cheat sheets, although he and I have put together more than one pair of boats... And this year there was a need to expand our fleet, because the children are growing up and boats are required that are more stable and load-bearing, for reliability movement. I myself used to swim to the surface, but with my sons I have to be careful about this! The time has come to take out the previously stored boards, edge them, plan them, prepare nails, and one weekend we get down to business! (It’s better to use spruce boards, without knots, but you don’t always have what you need)

First of all, Dad sketched out a small drawing with dimensions, based on the requirements and previous construction projects

Then they laid out the boards for the bottom, drew a contour on them according to the dimensions, cut out the main parts with a jigsaw, leaving only the edges, this can be seen in the photographs.

When adjusting the boards to one another, we leave gaps in the stern and in the bow, but in the middle we fit them more or less tightly

When all the parts are prepared, we begin assembling the bottom, first tightly assembling the boards, sewing them with nails in the middle with a cross member, then using a rope and two crowbars we pull together the stern, sew them together with nails, and do the same with the bow

Due to the fact that the crossbars are rounded, and gaps were left between the boards in the bow and stern, when screeding and assembling, the bottom turns out to be a bit of a sphere both across and along its length. In the future, this gives the boat stability on the water. It is not necessary to adjust and tighten the bottom boards to microns, small cracks are quite acceptable, this will make it easier to caulk the bottom.

When the bottom is assembled, we line out the edges according to the planned dimensions and markings so that the edges are smooth, otherwise it will not be possible to bend the side boards clearly

The most interesting thing is ahead, you need to bend the sides on both sides at the same time, if you bend them one by one, it can warp and the boat will turn out to be skewed. We apply the side board to the bow on one side and sew it on, then do the same on the other side, then one presses it, bending the boards, the second pierces it with nails towards the stern.

The boards were tied together in the same way as the bottom - with a rope. As a result, some kind of shape was drawn, then it’s easier. We bend the second row of side boards in the same way. We don’t hit a lot of nails when stitching because we still have to caulk! Next, we saw off the excess ends of the boards, both the side boards and the bow and stern. Then you adjust the front bow board.

After completing the assembly, you work with a plane, rounding where necessary, leveling it, going through the entire longboat, cutting out the frames beautifully. After making it beautiful, we caulk it, add nails in places, screw the rowlocks, resin the bottom, nail the strips to the bottom, resin them, then paint. We also make seats and paint them as you like. Our oars are transferable, we change boats, but the oars are the same. The oarlocks on all our boats are the same, so there are no problems.

In principle, I tried to take into account all the stages and subtleties in the photograph, so that it was clear. Two boats have now been put together, one for the opening, the second just recently. The boats were made identically, one was tested, the second was at the stage of completion of work.

If anyone has any questions, please ask, I’ll be sure to clarify! Truth questions usually arise when self-production, suddenly someone will take it and make a piece of wood. For those who live near the lake, a piece of wood is irreplaceable!

Thank you for your attention!

Drawings and photos

Buy good boat maybe not everyone, because the prices are quite high. In addition, not all designs may suit the needs of their clients. If you disassemble inflatable boats, then this is not very reliable means for movement, because such a boat can easily be damaged in difficult conditions. This means that they are not suitable for good fishing. In this option, the decision is made to try to make a homemade boat.

Homemade plywood fishing boats have their own number of advantages:

Firstly, plywood is simple, dense and very warm material. It is almost impossible to destroy such a model, and it weighs little.
Secondly, unlike rubber ones, there is enough space in a plywood model for a couple of people.
Thirdly, being in a boat made of wood, you practically do not feel discomfort.

The main material from which standard boats are made is considered plywood. There are no difficulties with finding it on sale.

First, it is worth remembering that any activity that is associated with independent creation of a certain means (be it a tractor or something else), must go specifically according to the chosen scheme. In this case, you should have drawings of homemade models with you. Sometimes drawings can be replaced with a special design.

To create the case you will need to take simple boards with a thickness of 2 cm and 6 mm plywood sheet. The width of the material for the stern and sides should be 30 cm. These are the most suitable dimensions for the boat. All other parts that will be inside the product (seats and spacers) are made of material with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 86.4 cm. It must be remembered that the dimensions of all these parts must be fully maintained, since they are all attached to to the model body only with self-tapping screws. Creating all the parts of this design will definitely not cause any problems.

This can be explained by their easy geometric shape. During the work process, you need to pay attention to the fit of the joined parts and the frill. All joining parts must be level and have only small gaps along the entire length. Various self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. Regarding the size of such fasteners: it all depends on the place of use. They may be as follows:

3 by 26 and 3 by 18 mm - for covering a vehicle;
4 by 60 and 5 by 64 mm - for all other parts of the structure (for example, seats, feed and side).

The bottom of the model is made of a sheet of plywood with 6 mm thick. But due to the fact that this part of the boat will be partially exposed to the effects of the aquatic environment, to protect the vehicle, the joints of the hull and the bottom still need to be treated with the VIAM-B/3 substance and secured with screws.

If this substance is not available, you can take it as a replacement. oil paint. Although it does not glue perfectly, it can give strong and reliable coverage. It is worth saying that the distance between the screws should be about 4 cm.

External seams should be well taped with fabric using AK-20. In order not to destroy the bottom of the model, a special grid is placed between the spacers.

Many people wonder how to make a boat out of plywood themselves. Boats with a motor do not differ much in their basic characteristics compared to models designed to move under oars. The only difference is in the organization of space for mounting the engine. Basically, a special board is fixed at the stern, where the motor for the boat is installed.

Certain parts of small ships can be equipped with other parts, for example, a cockpit, deck stringers, and so on. To improve strength and unsinkability, certain gaps can be installed in models that need to be filled polyurethane foam. This approach helps eliminate the possibility of vehicle flooding.

Painting the plywood body of the product is a rather interesting and serious moment. This is done correctly in the following sequence:

The body needs to be primed. Drying oil must be real. It is heated to the boiling stage and immediately removed from the surface of the stove. Using a large brush, warm drying oil is applied to all parts of the body on the outside and inside.
After priming with drying oil, you will need to wait for final absorption.
And finally, the boat is painted.

Great combination color range- white and red. The bottom up to the waterline needs to be painted white shade. Red should go higher.

For homemade model make an area for mounting the engine. It is cheaper and easier to use oars. The material for the oar can be a birch board with a thickness of 35 mm. A spike with a handle is placed at the end of the spindle. Special pads can be used to protect the edges of the blades. Next, you can prime the paddle and paint it. Boats homemade type can be designed in different ways.

A do-it-yourself fishing boat made of plywood can surpass plastic and rubber models in its “survivability.” Such a boat will operate for fifteen to twenty years. Create a boat yourself and enjoy fishing. And, of course, before starting work, you should decide what kind of boat you still need: collapsible or folding.

When making a boat from plywood, you will face two main problems. First, you need to correctly size and manufacture the parts. Secondly, it is important to correctly assemble the boat frame. Later in the article I will describe in detail how to calculate the sizes for everyone components, and as we build the frame, I will focus on particularly important points.

Dimensions and drawings

The first thing to do is decide on the size of the boat. We will make a boat 3000 mm long, 1400 mm wide and 500 mm high.
Let's decide on the length of the frame base. To do this, we need to know the length of the boat, two angles a and b, and the height of the boat.

We know the length and height - 3000mm and 500mm. Angle a - 100, angle b - 120.

Knowing these values, we calculate the length of the frame base.

L=3000-(h*tg(a-90)+h*tg(b-90))=2623,where h is the height of the boat

Now let's find the length of the bow and transom. Since they are inclined, their length will be greater than the height of the boat.

Transom L= √(〖(h*tg(a-90))〗^2+h^2)=508

Nose L= √(〖(h*tg(b-90))〗^2+h^2)=577

You need to decide on the width of the bottom. Let's take half the width of the boat - 700 mm. The bottom width will be 10% smaller, i.e. 630 mm. The boat reaches its maximum width 1/3 from the transom.

In our case, the maximum width will be at a distance of 1000 mm from the end of the boat. Thus, we transform the beam so that the maximum bend is at the point 1/3 * the length of the boat from the transom.

The length of the plywood for the side will be equal to the length of the transformed beams (upper and lower, respectively). The width will be equal to the length of the bow on one side and the length of the transom on the other.

Other sizes depend on the situation.

Boat frame

The basis will be timber 50*50*2523 mm. We screw a 50*50*630 mm transom to it on one side, at an angle of 90 degrees. We screw the deformed beams from the ends of the transom to the bow (the maximum convexity of the beam is 1000 mm from the transom).

We make 6 equally spaced cuts along the entire base (from the bottom side). The dimensions of the cutouts are 50*25 mm. We insert 6 beams 25*25 mm along the cutouts. We attach them to the base and side beams. The lower part of the frame is ready.

We screw on the bow and transom. Between the bow and the transom we again attach the deformed beams, but now along the top. The distance between the side beams is 500 mm in height and 350 mm in width. In fact, our sides are located at an angle to the base (an angle of approximately 120 degrees at the point of maximum convexity).

Making a frame for the sides

Note. Pay attention to how the beams are screwed: from the edge of the top to the edge of the bottom beam. It is important!
For this we use 25*25 mm timber.

Frame covering

We fasten the plywood to the beams with self-tapping screws 20 mm long. First we attach the sides. The plywood should fit snugly to the frame.

Then we sheathe the transom and bottom of the boat

We glue all the joints of the plywood with waterproof glue. Apply glue to all areas of the boat that, in your opinion, are vulnerable.

Next, we sew up the bow of the boat and fasten the seats. We cover the boat with inside(optional). You can make the floor and not cover the sides, it all depends on how much plywood you have. Do not plank the inside of the boat, this will add extra weight.

All remaining details are to your taste, the boat is ready and can be put on the water.

DOCOO - Specially for

Good day to all!
Today the author of this work invites us to look at the manufacturing process homemade boat made of plywood, he was inspired to do this by an old dream. First of all, he went to one of the factories where similar boats are produced, it is located in the city of Cherepovets, where he emphasized several points for himself that would later be useful in production, and bought the necessary material there.

To make a boat we will need:

Tool:

Pencil;
- ruler;
- electric screwdriver;
- Sander;
- electric planer;
- clamps;
- pliers.
- square ruler.

Materials:

Plywood;
- copper wire
- fiberglass;
- epoxy adhesive;
- self-tapping screws.

Since the plywood sheets were smaller than the planned dimensions of the boat, the author had to glue them together, going through everything possible options, this type of gluing was chosen “on the mustache”

And so, we take the sheets and start marking.

We smooth the ends of the plywood at an angle, for this we use a plane, and then we go through it with a sanding machine

It should look like this.

Next, the sheets are applied to each other and glued together using wood glue, then we place them under the press, placing a pressure bar along the entire length of the seam.

After the sheets have finally stuck together, you can remove them from under the press, remove clamping bars, the joint should be smooth and very strong, so we got the blanks of the length we needed.

We mark a center line on a sheet of plywood; all the main dimensions will go from it in the future.

Draw the bottom of the boat, as shown in the photo

Further using electric jigsaw We cut out the bottom according to the markings, use a specialized blade designed for plywood, it is best to cut at high speeds.

Then we mark one side for the boat, cut it out, and use it as a template for making the second one.

Next, we make markings and cut out the transom.

We join the cut parts, chamfer the joints using grinder. Further on the sides and bottom of the boat thin drill we make holes, and begin to sew together the elements of the boat using prepared pieces of copper wire, which we insert into the holes made, and then twist with pliers.

Sew from stern to bow.

In this process you will need an assistant, since it will be difficult to do it alone.

Example of seams.

The final result, when the last part is fixed, we get a body like this.

We do a fitting.

Next, we check the geometry of the resulting shape; if necessary, we additionally tighten the brackets, and then use a chisel to fit them, doing this from the inside of the sides. After the operations were completed, we cut out and installed temporary spacers; they were secured in place of the future frames.

In order to form a more even seam, it was decided to use masking tape.

Next, the author drew a template for the frames and began assembly.

These are the frames we got, everything is fastened with self-tapping screws and epoxy glue.

Let's start gluing internal seams, for this we use strips of fiberglass, and epoxy resin, glue it in three layers, try to saturate the fiberglass well, make sure that there are no bubbles.