It’s winter, construction is at a standstill, it’s time to prepare for spring construction, collect information, think about projects, make decisions on what technology and which one to start building in the spring, and it’s just around the corner.
Last year on this forum I told how my brother and I built frame bath. Now I would like to present you with a report with photographs and explanations of the construction process of a frame house. I hope that many forum participants who are planning to build it themselves will learn something interesting and useful for themselves. We will talk about the construction of this house:
Many of you purchase and read DOM magazines; in the second issue of this year there is an article telling how, in just a few holidays and during the summer holidays our friend managed to build such a house. The editors of the magazine shortened the text I prepared a little and removed some of the photographs and drawings, but nevertheless, the construction technology is clear to many, I think.
Here I will present to your attention full text With big amount photos, I’ll try to answer your questions, just don’t contact me as professional builder, I’m the same as most of you, I’ll be happy to tell you about all the subtleties, everything technological process used by me in the construction of frame houses.
We decided to build cottage By frame technology, for such a structure you can use columnar foundation, which will not take much effort and time, and you can build the frame of such a house under the roof without interior decoration within a few days.
Project. The family of the owner of the house consists of four people, which means the house must have at least three bedrooms, one large room for guests, a kitchen, a toilet room with a shower, a large terrace for evening tea and dinners. outdoors. A typical country house for a middle-income family. They took the development of the house project very seriously, since it determines not only the ease of use of the house, but also the price of the house, construction technology and the time during which it is possible to build and carry out the exterior and interior decoration of the house.
Initially, we planned to make two bay windows so that the house would have, as it seemed to us, an unusual appearance. But in the process of working on the drawings of the frame details, we came to the decision that without bay windows, construction time and costs could be significantly reduced, and the house would be warmer and more practical. Based on these conditions and our technical capabilities, we made a house project.
The entrance to the house is through a terrace - 13 m2, in the winter it will serve as a cold vestibule, from it we pass into a small heated corridor - 5 m2, in which there is a hanger for outerwear and a shelf for shoes. From this corridor you can get to the parents' bedroom - 11m2, in toilet room- 6m2 and for the kitchen - 18m2. The kitchen consists of two zones, next to front door work area with washing table, gas stove, refrigerator and shelves, then a dining area with a large table, corner sofa and a metal stove-fireplace, from which you can access the guest room - 21 m2 and the children's bedrooms - 8.6 m2 and 10.8 m2.
Foundation. Since they decided to build a lightweight one-story house using frame technology, measuring 11 by 9 meters, the foundation of the house was made pillar, using asbestos-cement pipes filled concrete mortar. Such a foundation can be made very quickly, and there is no need to wait for a month for the cement to completely harden.
Using a gas drill, we drilled holes in the ground with a diameter of 200 mm. to a depth of about one meter. The distance between the pillars is 80-90cm.
Asbestos-cement pipes with an internal diameter of 100 mm and a length of 1.3 m were installed level in the drilled holes. They sprinkled sand around the pipes, spilled water and compacted it, poured concrete solution into the pipes in the proportion: a bucket of cement, four buckets of sand and five to six buckets of crushed stone. Special plates for attaching the joists were installed in the pipes on which the floor joists will rest.
Over two weekends, 125 pipes were installed and filled with concrete.
Wells were drilled to a depth of about one meter.
The pipes were installed level and plumb, then they were sprinkled around with sand and thrombosed.
The pipes were filled with concrete solution through a special funnel.
During the May holidays from May 7-9, all the foundation pipes of the future house were installed and filled with concrete mortar.
Construction of wooden houses frame structure has gained popularity in our area relatively recently, only in recent decades. And this one fast growth The number of supporters of such buildings is due to the very fast process of their construction and the possibility of using environmentally friendly materials.
The first frame buildings appeared during the development of the territories of America and Canada, then they became widespread in European countries. This type of building is good not only because the house rises quickly, but also because it requires much less cost and physical effort. In addition, if the facade of the house is decorated with one of modern materials imitating brick, wood or stone, then its walls will be impossible to distinguish from capital ones.
Interestingly, building with your own hands is quite possible even alone. Of course, the process will take much longer, but you won’t have to pay for the work of an entire team. If you decide to carry out construction yourself and complete it during a warm and dry period summer period, then you still need to start in early spring. In case the house is not completely finished until late autumn, you need to try to bring the construction to at least the rafter structure and the roofing material, since the building cannot be allowed to stand uncovered until next spring.
What is frame construction?
Generally speaking, the frame structure of a house consists of a lower and top harness, which fastens the vertically installed posts that form the frame of the external and internal walls. The base for the floors and attic ceiling consists of load-bearing beams made from timber. The rafter system is also erected from beams, and roof covering. It is desirable that it does not have too much mass.
Insulation is installed and laid between the frame elements. Its thickness is chosen depending on the region and climatic conditions. In any case, the thickness of the frame posts must correspond to this value. Most often, one of the varieties of mineral wool, ecowool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam is chosen as thermal insulation materials. Expanded clay is also used to insulate floors and attic floors.
How to insulate a frame house?
When choosing, you need to take into account not only the thermal insulation qualities of the material, but also a number of other factors - hygroscopicity, chemical and biological resistance, density, environmental friendliness, etc. And for a frame house, the flammability of the material and its stability are of great importance .
On the pages of our portal there are many materials that tell in detail.
After installing the insulation, the structure is sheathed with moisture-resistant materials - this can be OSB board, moisture-resistant plywood or cement-bonded particle board (CSB).
Compared to solid wood, block or brick buildings, the frame structure is lightweight and does not require a massive foundation. A columnar or pile-screw foundation is suitable for it, and if you plan to arrange basements in the house, then in this case it is best to choose a strip foundation. The frame structure must be raised high enough above the ground, so the base part must have a height of at least 500 mm. This is necessary so that moisture from soil, from rain water or snowdrifts affected the wooden elements of the frame house as little as possible.
Foundation for a frame structure
Any construction begins with a foundation, and as stated above, you can choose any type of it (except, perhaps, a monolithic “floating” slab - there is no need for it).
Marking of future construction and earthworks
Before you start digging trenches for the foundation or screwing in piles, it is necessary to carefully mark the area. This work should not be considered secondary, since the straightness of future walls, and the overall volume of work, will depend on it. So How Not have to make unnecessary efforts to remake the foundation if its exact coordinates and dimensions are initially determined.
- Marking is carried out using a tape measure, a square, and other simple geodetic instruments. Usually it consists of installing wooden stakes with stretched cords that visually show the size of the building and its location on the ground.
This kind of “blueprint” defines everything load-bearing walls structure if a strip foundation is chosen. If you are planning a columnar or pile-screw version, then you need to mark the exact location of each of the pillars (supports).
- Trenches can be dug manually or, if this process needs to be carried out quickly, special construction equipment can be used, with the help of which this entire operation will be completed in one day.
- To dig holes under a columnar foundation, in addition to shovels, use a regular hand drill or a motor drill, which will allow you to drill holes much faster required diameter to the required depth.
These methods are the most affordable, since if you invite large-sized equipment, then it is necessary, firstly, to have it on site additional area and free travel to the place of work, and secondly, the cost of such drilling will cost many times more.
- At the stage of digging a pit, sewer drain. To lay pipes, trenches are dug to a depth below the soil freezing level in a given region. Then pipes are laid to the place inside the pit where, according to the plan, a bathroom or a ventilated sewer riser should be located.
If a columnar foundation is being installed, then the section of pipe running from the ground level to the exit in the house must be carefully insulated. It is recommended to build brick walls around it, and fill the space between the pipe and them with insulation.
Of course, this work can be carried out after construction is completed, but in this case it will be inconvenient - you will have to cut holes in the floor or cut through the foundation wall.
Construction of the foundation
In order to specifically focus on one type of foundation, you need to imagine what they are.
Strip foundation
This type of foundation is a concrete monolithic strip with a reinforcement grid in its design. The height of the basement can be different, but if the house construction plan includes basement, then the foundation walls are raised by 600 ÷ 800 mm, and in this case they will require insulation. When preparing the formwork, we must not forget about ventilation holes, which will not allow moisture to accumulate under the building.
"Classic" strip foundationIf you immediately take measures to combat rodents, of which there are always a lot outside the city, then it is recommended to make a backfill of fine-grained expanded clay around the foundation and inside it.
Columnar foundation
1 – foundation pillar;
2 – strapping beams;
3 – floor beams;
4 – subfloor joists.
A columnar foundation is a set of concrete, brick or combined pillars located in in the right order, according to the markings carried out. The supports are buried depending on the types and location of soil layers in the area and the massiveness of the future structure.
For a frame house on stable ground - very good decision. All installation details can be found in a special article.
Pile-screw foundation
A screw foundation consists of metal piles screwed to the required depth at points, according to the markings carried out in accordance with the project. The upper part of the piles, protruding above the ground surface, is tied with a metal grillage or metal jumpers, and then with a powerful beam. This will become the basis for the lower trim of the frame structure itself.
The good thing about the pile-screw design is that the supports can be screwed in so that they protrude to different heights. This allows you to install the house not only on a flat area, but also on a rough area, with a difference in height - then bringing the piles to one horizontal level will not be difficult. to the same height.
It will not be possible to screw in screw piles on your own - you will have to either invite several assistants, or use the services of a team of craftsmen “armed” with special equipment.
Prices for cement and basic mixtures
Cement and base mixtures
Construction of the frame
Whatever foundation is chosen, it must be on top waterproof– the platform (grillage, mounting plates or the upper edge of the pillars or tape) on which the lower frame beam will be installed is covered with roofing felt, which will create a moisture-proof seal.
The roofing material is spread in several layers, preferably using a “hot” method on tar mastic, and it must be 150 ÷ 200 mm larger than the width of the foundation, since it must protrude from both sides.
Bottom harness
The harness is made of timber measuring 150×150 or 200×150 mm. At the corners, the elements are connected “in half a tree”, the bars are securely twisted together and secured to the foundation supports (strip) using pins or anchors, depending on what type of base is chosen and what material it is constructed from.
Additionally, the strapping beams are fastened together with corners or other metal elements, for example, plates. The same parts can be used to attach the strapping to the foundation.
At the end of this work, a rigid strapping belt should be obtained that can support the main structure of the frame. In the case when the timber used does not have the proper cross-sectional size, two, and sometimes three, parts are stacked one on top of the other.
Moreover, the upper frame beam is mounted on the lower beam so that possible butt joints, if any, do not lie one above the other.
If the wooden frame is mounted on a strip foundation, then it may not be too thick, but it is very important that its width coincides with the width of the concrete base.
Basement beams and flooring
Basement beams
The strength qualities of the frame depend to the maximum extent on the quality and cross-section of the frame beams and floor beams. It is clear that they are trying to select first-class material. But the cross-section depends on both the length of the spans and the spacing of the parts. To correctly determine the size, you can use the following table:
Table of cross-sections of floor beams for a frame building:
| Cross-section of 1st grade lumber used | Span length (mm) | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3000 | 3500 | 4000 | 4500 | 5000 | 5500 | 6000 | |
| Attic floor | |||||||
| Board | |||||||
| 160×50 | 1200 | 900 | 650 | 500 | 420 | - | - |
| 200×50 | 1850 | 1350 | 1050 | 800 | 650 | 550 | 450 |
| 180×80 | 2400 | 1750 | 1350 | 1050 | 850 | 700 | 600 |
| timber | Distance between adjacent beams (mm) | ||||||
| 140×180 | - | - | - | 1800 | 1480 | 1200 | 1050 |
| 150×200 | - | - | - | 2400 | 2000 | 1650 | 1400 |
| 160×220 | - | - | - | - | 2500 | 2000 | 1750 |
| Basement and interfloor ceilings | |||||||
| Board | Distance between adjacent beams (mm) | ||||||
| 160×50 | 800 | 600 | 450 | - | - | - | - |
| 200×50 | 1250 | 900 | 700 | 550 | 450 | - | - |
| 180×80 | 1200 | 1200 | 900 | 700 | 650 | 450 | - |
| timber | Distance between adjacent beams (mm) | ||||||
| 140×180 | - | - | 1550 | 1200 | 1300 | 800 | 700 |
| 150×200 | - | - | - | 1650 | 1700 | 1000 | 900 |
| 160×220 | - | - | - | 2000 | 1900 | 1400 | 1100 |
- The next step is securing the basement beams. They, as a rule, have the same cross-sectional size as the strapping bars. The connection of the floor beams with the strapping belt is carried out “in half a tree”, for which cuts are made in both elements.
The beams should give the structure of the future floor rigidity and reliability. Therefore, if the building area is large enough, then often the basement beams are laid on the strapping belt for each room separately.
- After the installation of the basement floor beams is completed, flooring will be required for further work. And this is where many craftsmen prefer to install floors themselves and advise beginners to immediately install floors, both rough and “white” (of course, not counting the finishing decorative covering). However, with this type of work, it is necessary to provide that the entire floor area will need to be covered daily with a solid sheet of thick polyethylene film until the entire structure is protected from precipitation by the roof and walls.
- All parts of the lower belt are covered with antiseptic and water-repellent impregnation - this measure will extend the life of the building.
- At the same stage it is necessary to raise sewer pipe above the floor surface by 100 ÷ 150 mm. To do this, in each layer of the covering, it is necessary to make holes through which the sewerage pipe will be passed.
Sub flooring
- To lay the subfloor, skull blocks are screwed onto the lower parts of the floor beams, onto which boards or plywood sheets will be fixed.
- Next comes laying and securing the boards. For this, it is not at all necessary to purchase first-class material, but it must be well dried. It is recommended to install the boards close to each other - this will add insulation to the floor, since the structure will be less ventilated.
Installation of insulating floor pie
- The next step is to cover the subfloor and floor beams waterproofing membrane, which uses dense polyethylene. It is usually secured using staples.
- Next, mats are laid on the waterproofing or expanded clay is poured, which is no less effective than other materials. If you plan to make several layers of insulation, then the first of them is recommended to use fine-grained expanded clay.
- A layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation, and then attached or batten, or sheet material. For this, plywood or OSB is often used.
Recently, instead of plywood, cement-bonded particle boards are often used, which can be used not only for floor coverings, but also for walls and ceilings. The material has good technical and operational characteristics, is not inferior, and in some ways even surpasses its “competitors”.
The table below shows comparative estimates indicators of some sheet materials that They will give you a rough idea of them and help you make a choice.
| Characteristics | Rating the material using a 5-point system | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Average score | 2.9 | 3 | 3.3 | 3.6 | 4.1 |
| MDF | Chipboard | Plywood | OSB | DSP | |
| Strength | 2 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| Resistance to external aggressive influences | 1 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 5 |
| Dimensional stability | 2 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 |
| Weight | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 2 |
| Manufacturability of machining | 3 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 5 |
| Manufacturability of painting | 5 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 4 |
| Defects: knots, delamination, delamination, etc. | 5 | 4 | 3 | 5 | 5 |
Sheets of floor covering material are screwed with self-tapping screws to the floor beams. If insulation is provided in two layers, then logs are nailed on top of the beams, between which the second layer of insulation is laid. Then everything is the same - a vapor barrier is laid, and plywood or other covering is fixed to the joists.
It should be noted that instead of the last vapor barrier layer, roofing felt sheets are often laid with an overlap of 150 ÷ 200 mm, which are fastened together with mastic using a “hot” method.
Construction of the wall frame, top trim
Once the bottom chord is completed, you can proceed to the construction of the wall frame. First of all, it is necessary to install corner posts, which usually have a larger cross-section than intermediate ones.
- The racks must be fixed according to pre-made markings, at a distance of 600 mm from each other - this is standard width insulation mats, but if necessary they can be placed with a different pitch, for example, 400 mm. You can attach intermediate posts, just like corner posts, in different ways:
- The racks can first be secured using metal corners, and then jumpers can be installed between them, which will create rigidity of the structure.
- Another option would be to install the racks on the strapping belt at the time when the floor is already installed, or before its installation.
— If fastening is carried out after the floor has been laid, then grooves are cut out near the floor beams. Racks are installed in them and secured to the beam and frame using self-tapping screws.
— If the racks are attached before installing the floor, this can be done using an additional part - a piece of timber, which is screwed with self-tapping screws to the inside of the rack and the trim beam.
— The third option is to install racks with diagonal supports (mitters), which are installed on both sides and screwed with self-tapping screws or nailed.
— The fourth method of attaching racks can be complete or incomplete cutting of the rack into a frame or into an additional reinforcing beam nailed perpendicular to the floor beams.
- When installing racks, you cannot forget about window and doorways. They are designated by transverse bars, which for rigidity are supported from above and below by additional reinforcing posts. Spacer bars will give the structure additional rigidity.
- Each of the racks is aligned with the greatest care vertically in two planes using a building level. Then they are all fastened together with temporary jumper slats, which will fix them in the correct position.
- When the racks stand rigidly enough, they must be united with an upper trim, which is nailed to the ends of the racks, and then additionally secured using corners or spacer slopes, secured diagonally.
- The top frame beams should have the same width as the vertical posts. Their reliable fastening is given Special attention, since they will become the basis for the beams attic floor and, therefore, all rafter system generally.
- To ensure that the structure of the wall frame is strong, after installing the top frame, it is recommended to immediately sheath the outside with plywood or other selected sheet material. The sheets are mounted on self-tapping screws to the vertical posts.
Prices for various types of timber
Video - The biggest mistakes when building a frame house
Attic beams and roof structure
Once the strength and stability of the wall frame is no longer a concern, the attic floor beams can be installed.
- They are fixed exactly above the studs of the wall frame. If boards are prepared as a material for this, then they are installed on the end, having previously made cuts in them to 1/3 of the width of the board, and the depth of the cut should be equal to the width of the beam or board of the top trim.
Fastening is done using a metal corner, which is screwed on one side to the frame and the other to the beam. Fasteners are installed on both sides of the beam.
- Next, you can proceed to the installation of the rafter system. True, it is advisable to immediately install at least a temporary flooring on the attic floor beams, on which you can move during the work process.
Prices for different types of tiles
Roof tiles
Video - 11 important rules for the rigidity of a frame house
Insulation and finishing works
After that To Once the roof has been erected over the house, external windows and doors should be installed. This process is carried out before insulation work so that all cracks and gaps that may form during the installation of window and door units can be simultaneously closed. After this, you can move on to insulating the walls, attic floor and roof.
Walls can be insulated both inside and outside. For this purpose they are used thermal insulation materials, which have already been mentioned in our publication.
- If the walls are sheathed on the outside with plywood, then a wall is installed from the inside between the racks, which then must be covered on top with a vapor barrier film.
- For additional insulation thermal insulation materials are installed and outside walls To do this, a sheathing is screwed to them, between the bars of which the selected insulation is laid or applied.
A windproof one is fixed on top of the insulation, vapor barrier film.
- Insulation of the attic floor is carried out in approximately the same way as the basement:
— cranial bars are screwed onto the floor beams;
- a subfloor is laid on them;
— the floor is covered with waterproofing;
— then comes the insulation material (expanded clay, mineral wool, sawdust, ecowool, expanded polystyrene, etc.);
— the insulation is covered with waterproofing on top;
- boards or plywood of the “white” attic floor are mounted on top of it.
- It is also better to insulate the roof slopes, since most of the heat escapes through ceilings and the roof. To do this, insulation is laid between the rafters, which is covered with a vapor barrier on the attic side, and then all layers are sheathed with clapboard, plywood, cement-bonded particle boards or moisture-resistant plasterboard.
The sheathing can be secured to the rafters or to an additionally screwed horizontal batten.
- Having completed the insulation work, you can proceed to outer skin home decorative material. It can be chosen to suit every taste - it can be vinyl or metal siding, wooden lining, “block house” or other modern materials.
The facade of the building acquires reliable thermal insulation, protection from weather conditions, and the house itself acquires completeness, neatness and individuality.
How – read in a special publication on our portal.
- Internal lining can also be done in different ways:
- plasterboard, making it perfect smooth walls for painting or wallpapering;
— wooden clapboard, making the house cozy and bringing into it natural freshness;
- plywood, which can also be prepared for painting or wallpaper.
Interior decoration of a frame house - at the request of the ownersTo complete the finishing work, decorative panels - slopes and trims - are installed around windows and doors.
If a veranda or terrace was not planned in the project, then they can be added after all the work is completed, but it is better, of course, to build it together with the walls.
Electrics can be installed both inside the walls, even at the stage of installing the frame, and after finishing the cladding with decorative material. The latter installation method has recently been used more and more often, since it is safer and allows, if necessary, to carry out renovation work without opening the decorative trim. However, modern technologies allow you to use other options.
Say what you will, but there is a fire hazard wooden house always higher than stone. Any “liberties” in electrical installation are simply unacceptable!
How to install it correctly is described in detail in a special article on the portal.
If you decide to start building a frame house, you need to remember that this will require a lot of free time, although incomparably less than with other buildings. The work will certainly go more fun and faster if there is a reliable and knowledgeable assistant nearby, or better yet, several. In this situation, it is quite possible to build a house in one summer season.
The main thing is to act in accordance with the construction process technological instructions When performing all types of work, perform them carefully, harmoniously and consistently.
And finally, to complete the overall picture, here is a video lecture on the main advantages and disadvantages of frame houses.
Prices for thermal insulation materials
Thermal insulation materials
Video: frame house - “pros” and “cons”
Frame houses are very popular among developers. This is due to the fact that they are built in short terms and require a minimum Money, have excellent performance characteristics and are environmentally friendly.
If someone has a desire to start building just such a house, then in this article you can get information on how to do it. Here everything is described in stages. At the same time, it is meant that all preparatory, and most importantly, organizational measures have been carried out and permission to build a house has been obtained. What does that require?
The foundation is chosen at will and can be columnar, pile-screw, strip, etc. This article discusses an example of building a frame house with a pile-screw type of foundation.
This type of foundation is suitable for those areas where there is loose or unstable soil. This type of foundation has a number of advantages, such as:
- There is no need to use special equipment to build it.
- The foundation is erected in a short time: one day is enough to install it.
- Huge selection of building materials (piles).
- The foundation has excellent load-bearing characteristics.
- This is a cheap foundation option compared to other types of foundations.
- The foundation can be installed at any time of the year.
On a note! The presence of a pile-screw foundation does not allow for a basement in the house. This is a significant drawback of this option.
How to calculate the number of piles?
Piles must have the correct geometric shape and high quality blades. You can select suitable piles from the corresponding table.
Screw pile (pipe diameter) Installation step Application
219
3-10
Houses, piers, hangars
159
2-5
Likewise
133
2-5
Likewise
108
2-5
Heavy gates, piers, hangars, houses, fences
89
2-4
Can be used as additional piles, for houses, outbuildings
76
1-3
Light buildings, terraces, signs, traffic signs
59
0.5-2
Likewise
On a note! In conditions where the soil is clayey, work should be carried out in dry, non-rainy weather. The piles are installed strictly vertically.
If thick piles are used, you will have to use special equipment. If you choose piles of the optimal diameter, you can get by with your own efforts. In this case, it is much easier to decide on the same level of installation of piles.
To begin with, the necessary markings are carried out on the site and the site is prepared. It is desirable that it be horizontally level and could serve as a kind of guide to the depth of immersion of the piles.
The next stage is determining the perimeter of the future foundation. To do this, metal rods are hammered into its corners, after which a rope is pulled between them. It is necessary to check that the future foundation has right angles.
First of all, the piles are installed in the corners to a depth of at least 0.5 meters. Although it all depends on the type of soil. It is better to install the piles by two people: one screws them in, and the second controls the verticality. Having installed the piles at the corners of the building, they begin to install intermediate piles, which can be located at a distance of 0.7-1.2 meters from one another. All piles are screwed in to the required depth, after which they begin to level them, concreting and installing the caps on the piles.
For this operation, beams measuring 150x150 mm, 200x200 mm and 200x250 mm are suitable. Before laying the beams, the tops of the piles are coated with mastic and a couple of layers of roofing felt are laid. This is the so-called waterproofing. The bars should be treated with an antiseptic.
The beams are mounted along the entire perimeter of the future building and connected to each other in half a tree using nails 120 mm long. All joints are reinforced with corners, which are fastened with nails 50-60 mm long.
The beams are attached to the base with screws; at the same time, they are placed in special heads and are well attracted by the screws.
A board is laid on top of the frame on the beams, which will cover the joints of the beams. The vertical posts of the future frame will be mounted on this board in the future. The board is nailed to the beam with nails 100-120 mm long.
The subfloor is mounted on logs measuring 100 by 150 mm, installed every 0.6 meters. The logs are connected to the frame using metal corners, after which a board is nailed on top of the logs.
Insulation is laid in the openings between the joists, and a vapor barrier film is spread on it. After this, everything is covered with plywood. Thick plywood is taken and it is attached to the joists. To ensure the floor is level, the logs must be installed in the same horizontal plane.
To install the frame, beams of the following sizes are taken: 100x50 mm, 150x50 mm, 200x50 mm. First of all, vertical posts are installed at the corners of the structure. They are attached securely using reinforced corners made of metal. After this, proceed to the installation of the remaining racks, which are attached in the same way corner posts. All racks are equipped with jibs that minimize loosening of the structure.
The upper beam is connected at the corners by means of cutting, and to other vertical posts using corners. For greater strength, diagonal slopes are installed.
Their installation can be done in three ways:
- Through cutting.
- Using perforated brackets.
- Using metal corners.
Alternatively, it is recommended to combine several methods at the same time. This may be the option of cutting down or the option of using corners. The beams are installed directly on the beam of the upper frame. Fastening can be done with self-tapping screws, but it is better to use nails, since they allow the wood to expand freely when humidity changes.
Installing a roof is a fairly labor-intensive operation that deserves to be described in a separate article.
There is a wide range of products available for this purpose. facing materials, such as siding, timber simulator, fake diamond etc. The work is carried out in the following order:
- At the first stage, a lathing made of wooden beams measuring 40x50 mm is installed. The sheathing pitch is 0.6 m. Alternatively, it will work metallic profile CD-60 from plasterboard systems.
- If the sheathing is made of wood, then it is advisable to cover it with an antiseptic and fire-resistant material.
- After the sheathing is ready, installation of the facing material begins.
During the work process, one should not forget about the insulation of a residential building. As a rule, everything is subject to insulation: floor, roof and walls. Don't forget about the vapor barrier film.
The building is almost ready, all that remains is to complete the interior decoration of the living space. There are many options here, especially since each room requires its own approach. And rooms such as the bathroom and kitchen are subject to exceptional types of finishing.
Photo report of building a frame house on your own
Here you can see step by step the construction of a frame house with your own hands on weekends.
It is rapidly gaining popularity among individual developers. In Canada, this is a government program. In Russia, this means solving housing problems independently, and in the most short time at the lowest possible cost.
It is possible to build a frame frame with your own hands, even in the absence of special construction education, skills, or experience. To do this, you will have to make an effort, understand the technology, and also acquire the simplest skills in performing construction work. As a result, you will be able to build a frame house with your own hands , and get an individual home for your special requests, needs, and needs at an affordable price.
Let's bring detailed description technological operations. Using technology, you can do it yourself ( step-by-step instruction, 6x6 m2 - the dimensions of the house that we took as a basis) qualitatively.
Frame house: step-by-step instructions
Let's list the main steps that need to be completed sequentially in order to build a new frame house with your own hands; step-by-step instructions will give you the right idea about construction.
Frame wall diagram.
- Design - planning, thinking through the structure of a house, layout of walls and rooms, doors and windows, plumbing fixtures, water supply, sewerage, electrical wiring, heating. During the design process, a diagram of a frame house is drawn , on which the locations of utility networks and plumbing and heating devices are indicated. Working out diagrams of frame houses with your own hands , household utility rooms, it is important to consider how the house will be heated - choose a heating system, a layout of its elements. By ready-made diagram Step-by-step construction will be carried out.
- Ground work is the preparation of a hole for the foundation and the actual construction of the foundation.
- Assembling the frame of walls and roof.
- Construction of walls and subfloor.
- External doors, windows and partitions.
- Interior decoration and internal doors.
Now let’s move on directly to the question, with our own hands, what to consider for high-quality construction and proper execution of the work.
DIY frame house
Preparatory work is necessary for any construction, especially if you decide to build a frame house, you will simply need step-by-step instructions. If you thought through the house design yourself, then you took into account the peculiarities of the location of the building on the site. If you bought finished project and decided to implement it on site, then you will need to “tie” the structure to your terrain. How to build a frame house, instructions will be useful at the very early stages of construction.
Frame house with your own hands step by step photo. Site preparation
What will need to be done on the site where I am building a frame house with my own hands:
- Clear it of old buildings, if there are any on the site, of construction debris and stumps and snags.
- Provide the possibility of transportation building materials, clear the road for the car and a place to turn around.
Shed for storing boards. - Consider places for storing building materials; if the terrain is uneven, they should be located on elevated surfaces.
- Perhaps the area needs to be leveled, for this you need to call construction equipment.
- For some areas where frame construction is taking place, instructions will be relevant on how to build a fence to prevent theft of materials.
Site marking
By marking we mean the designation of the location of the future structure on the ground. The frame house diagram is transferred to the area using pegs and ropes. The pegs are driven into the ground and a rope is pulled between them, indicating the location of the future external walls.
Marking the site for construction. Carefully measure all angles, observe the degrees (clearly marked 90°) and the length of the walls. Deviations of even a few degrees are not allowed. They lead to distortion of the structure and improper distribution of loads. Which, as a result, can reduce the strength of the entire structure and reduce its reliability.
Instructions for the foundation
The step-by-step construction of a frame house with your own hands begins with the foundation. This is the foundation of the house, a large, flat and strong “stand” on which the entire frame structure rests. It can be poured from concrete or assembled from ready-made concrete blocks.
Strip foundation for frame. Frame construction called "light". Frame walls put much less pressure on the surface of the earth than permanent brick structures or concrete monoliths. The frame is also lighter than a timber house. Therefore, your building will need a small, shallow foundation.
On a note
When deciding with your own hands, you invariably face the question of choosing designs and materials. For frame buildings, shallow strip foundations or slabs are constructed. In some cases, foundations for frame frames are made deep.
This happens when the soil is unstable, mobile, loose, and the structure is planned on the shore of a reservoir. In this case, which will rest on deep and stationary layers of soil.
Strip foundation
It is a stone ribbon, a path buried 100-400 mm into the ground. The foundation rises 100-300 mm above the ground surface. So the total height strip foundation for a frame house is 200-700 mm.
Strip foundation formwork with reinforcement mesh On a note
You can make the foundation deeper and higher - but this is at your discretion, if you want to use more building materials and get a more massive structure for the foundation of the house.
The foundation tape is poured into trenches prepared in advance. You can mix the concrete for pouring yourself. Before pouring, a layer of sand is poured into the trenches, thereby creating a so-called sand cushion (thickness up to 100 mm) and metal reinforcement is laid.
Slab foundation
A slab foundation is also called a floating foundation. The frame house will rise and fall with it, with seasonal expansion of the soil. Therefore, the slab must be strong enough.
The slab foundation is poured from concrete and reinforcement, and the reinforcement is tied with wire. The reinforcing mesh provides the frame house slab with the necessary strength.
The foundation is poured monolithic slab The slab base can be minimally buried into the ground by 100-200 mm, or concrete can be poured onto a gravel bed without deepening. Overall height slabs should be 200-300 mm.
It is important for the foundation slab to ensure resistance to rising ground moisture. Therefore, when mixing concrete, a waterproof additive is added to it. This will ensure the concrete slab is waterproof and the floor inside the future room is dry. It will also extend the durability of the foundation and the entire structure.
Pile-screw foundation
To obtain a pile-screw foundation, you can use asbestos pipes or ready-made metal piles. For asbestos pipes prepare pits into which a pipe is installed and concrete is poured into it. Pre-reinforced, i.e. place metal fittings inside the pipe. Metal piles are screwed into the ground without removing the soil, without digging a hole.
To make it easier and clearer how to install a pile-screw foundation and a frame house with your own hands – step by step photo.
Set of piles for screw foundation 
Screwing in foundation piles manually 
Connecting foundation screw piles to each other 
Pile-screw foundation Timber tying
Horizontal beams are laid on top of the finished piles. This design is called a grillage. When you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, the step-by-step sequence begins with the installation of a grillage, which is also the bottom frame of the frame with vertical fastening of the racks on them.
For the bottom trim choose wooden beam section 150x150 mm. This is a load-bearing element of the structure, which must have sufficient strength and support the walls, roof, decoration and internal household appliances.
To connect the corners of the strapping, choose one of the methods suggested in the picture - half-tree or half-paw.
Half-tree connection options 
Half-tree and half-leg connection They differ in the thickness of the wood cut for corner connection. Half a tree - exactly half the thickness of the beam is cut, half a tree - the beam is cut at an angle to each other. The connection is reinforced from above with a metal bracket or plate. Then the corner of the trim is secured to the foundation with a metal anchor. After installation is completed, the timber is treated with an antiseptic.
Instructions for the subfloor
To build a frame house, the instructions will describe in detail the entire construction process. First of all, the floor of a frame house with your own hands consists of a rough layer and a finishing coating. The subfloor is made of concrete or wood. Finish coating made of wood, laminate, linoleum and other finishing materials.
Concrete subfloor
The concrete floor is poured on top of the ground. It represents a multilayer structure, which contains a layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, and reinforcing mesh.
Concrete subfloor - concrete screed The bottom layer is 10 mm sand. On top - thermal insulation made of expanded clay, sawdust with clay - the so-called adobe, penoplex. Next is concrete with a waterproofing additive.
Wooden subfloor
If wood is used to construct a subfloor, then empty space will form underneath it.
Subfloor between joists Wooden logs are laid on top of the bottom frame and are used as a base, to which subfloor boards are nailed from below. Insulation is laid on the subfloor boards. Then it spreads out on the logs flooring: laminate, linoleum, OSB, parquet.
Installation of a frame house
How to build a frame house with your own hands? Step by step diagram construction begins with the construction of the frame - one of the most important construction operations. It is important to choose the right beams and boards (size and cross-section) and connect them correctly. What features arise when the installation of a frame house begins: racks, beams, jibs and crossbars? You can easily start building a frame house with your own hands; the video will show you step by step all the main points of assembling the house.
- Locations of racks and joints wooden elements measured with a tape measure and marked with a pencil.
- Carefully check the verticality of the posts, the horizon of the top trim and the angle of connection. The angles between the posts and beams should be 90°.
- For connections of frame elements, the most reliable options– metal staples and nails.
- The installation of a frame house is carried out from elements assembled in advance on the ground - wall templates, trusses. They are lifted, installed, temporarily supported by oblique beams and then secured with connecting elements.
Installation of walls in a frame house Step by step construction frame house, the technology for assembling the wall frame is as follows:
- Lay the bottom trim.
- Assemble the frame of each wall separately (lower, upper and vertical elements) – the so-called wall template. Afterwards, the assembled template is lifted in its entirety and installed on the lower frame.
- A second top frame is laid on top of the wall templates, on which the rafters for the roof are then placed.
On a note
Three people will be needed to lift the 6 m long wall template. It’s quite possible for the three of us to raise such a template. More long walls assembled from several templates and connect their joints with special threaded connections.
Assembling a frame house, photos and videos demonstrate the progress of construction operations - assembling the template and installing it in the location of the future wall.
Ukosiny
In some frame house installation schemes, not only vertical and horizontal frame elements are used, but also inclined ones - the so-called jibs. They enhance the strength of the frame structure. They are made from boards 150-50 mm or 100-50 mm.
Correct location ukosin Rigel
A crossbar is a horizontal board that is attached next to the top trim board. The crossbar is attached to the template during assembly on the ground. For crossbars, wooden boards with a thickness of 50 mm or more are used.
Crossbar across the entire wall of a frame house The horizontal support between the inclined roof trusses is also called a crossbar. In general, a crossbar is any beam that works in compression.
Angles
The corners of the frame carry the maximum load. Therefore, they are assembled from two or three support boards.
Options for fastening frame wall corners Internal walls
The frame of the internal walls is assembled from wall templates in the same way as the external walls. The internal walls do not carry a large load, and therefore can be of a smaller cross-section.
The main requirement for internal walls is sound insulation. Therefore, their thickness should ensure the installation of soundproofing material during the subsequent arrangement of walls and their insulation.
Windows and doors
After assembling the frame, windows and doors are installed in the openings provided for in the diagram. It is easier to order this work from the manufacturer - along with installation in window hole. As for the doors, their frame can be successfully assembled independently from wooden planks 25-30 mm thick.
Instructions for proper insulation
The frame house is being built step by step, and now it is necessary to start insulating the house. High-quality insulation ensures the ability to maintain comfortable temperature V winter period and also determines your future payment costs winter heating. Therefore, here it is better to overdo it and insulate a frame house well with your own hands, than to save money and insufficiently insulate the walls of the building. What is used for insulation:
- Mineral wool in the form of pressed mats – best option insulation of the frame structure. It allows air to pass through, provides air exchange, limits heat loss due to the fact that it does not conduct heat from the house to the street, does not cake and does not lose its properties over time. During installation, it shrinks a little and then expands, which ensures the absence of installation seams and cracks through which heat loss also usually occurs.
Wall insulation mineral wool - Styrofoam– rigid polyurethane foam boards. They have one advantage over mineral wool mats - they are cheaper in price. In all other respects they are inferior to cotton insulation. They do not shrink during installation and leave small gaps that need to be filled with foam. They do not allow air to pass through and do not provide air exchange. Requires construction exhaust ventilation, at permanent residence in a residential building.
Since thermal insulation with mineral wool mats has obvious advantages, let’s turn to this technology.
- Mineral wool– moisture-absorbing material. Therefore, when installed inside the wall, it is closed with outside special film. This film must be made of a membrane that will not stop air exchange. That is, the membrane structure should allow wet steam to pass through only on one side, i.e. do not allow moisture to pass through atmospheric air and release from within.
On a note
Using polyethylene instead of a membrane negates the efforts to build a “breathable” wall at home. You can equally well insulate the wall with airtight foam.
- An external one can also block the removal of moisture. finishing material. Therefore, an air gap is provided between the membrane and the outer slabs - a void or air layer 50 mm thick. The moist air that has accumulated in the frame wall. To construct such a gap, use wooden sheathing –wooden planks width 50x50 mm. They are attached along the supports on top of the insulation. Afterwards, the outer wall panels are attached to the sheathing.
Step by step finishing
After installation of the walls, interior wall finishing begins. The basis for finishing are panels wall material, which were installed during the installation of the wall from inside the frame. The following materials are used as internal walls:
- GKL plasterboard is a natural material, environmentally friendly, with an absolutely flat surface that does not need to be plastered or leveled in any way. Only the joints between adjacent plasterboard boards need to be sealed with putty.
Wall finishing with plasterboard. - Gypsum fiber GVL slabs- option plasterboard wall with higher strength properties.
- OSB is a wood-containing material, shavings joined with synthetic glue. Has a lower degree of environmental safety. In addition, it has a rough surface and requires plastering and putty.
So, the sequence of operations when performing wall decoration next:
- Installation interior wall(gypsum board or OSB wall panels).
- Sealing joints between panels. If it is drywall, then putty and glue the joints with paper tape. If OSB - then plastering the surface of the wood board.
- Primer for appropriate wall finishing. For gluing wallpaper - primer with glue. For painting - primer for paint.
- Direct execution of wall finishing - wallpapering, painting, decorative plastering of room walls.
If wall panels (MDF, cork) are used as wall decoration, then they turn to a different finishing technology. They do not make a rough wall, but immediately install the internal finishing material.
Finally, we offer you an interesting educational video about building a frame house with your own hands (a video with a step-by-step demonstration of technological operations).
It is important that the result is of high quality. If I build a frame house with my own hands, then I do everything reliably and correctly.
The housing issue will never lose its relevance. This explains why two-story frame houses enjoy steady popularity.
Such projects are practical, functional and inexpensive. They are equally appropriate in the capital region and in provincial towns.
Algorithm for building a two-story country cottage
In order to country house turned out to be durable and cozy, it is necessary to carry out construction according to the specified scheme.
- Pouring the foundation.
A light strip foundation is quite sufficient. The weight of the frame is small, there is no point in pouring a heavy foundation or driving powerful piles.
- Communications liner.
Electricity, gas pipeline, sewerage - all these utilities must be connected to the cottage before initial stage construction.
- Installation of the frame.
The base of the building is assembled from a house kit. This assembly takes a matter of days. It does not require the use of heavy construction equipment.
- Roof installation.
After roofing materials selected, you can begin installing the roof. This is an important process on which it depends how warm, reliable, and durable it will be.
- Insulation of frame and roof.
If the house is intended for year-round use, then this item is required. If you plan to use the cottage only in the summer, then you can save on thermal insulation.
- Installation of doors and windows.
The simplest stage of construction. It will only take a few days to implement it.
- Exterior finishing.
Turnkey construction work involves finishing the facade of the building, installing a porch, and equipping extensions such as a veranda and terrace. Finishing is included in the total price of the entire building.
Advantages of two-story frame houses
The main advantage of such buildings is affordable price. This concerns not only the cost of the building, but also its subsequent maintenance. For its owner, maintaining such a house will cost 2-3 times less than maintaining a similar brick cottage.
In addition, frame cottages are distinguished by good thermal efficiency, environmental friendliness and ease of construction.
