How to paint the inside of a bathtub at home. How to paint a bathtub yourself: all known methods Painting a cast-iron bathtub from the outside

What kind of paint should be used? cast iron bath? How is it applied? Is preliminary surface preparation required? Let's try to sort out these nuances.

In the photo - Tikkurila Reaflex, epoxy enamel for restoration of plumbing fixtures.

Why is this necessary?

But, in fact, why might you need to paint a cast-iron bathtub yourself?

There are two main motives.

1. Wear of the old enamel coating. On the list possible reasons- chipping as a result of heavy objects falling into the bathtub, chemical destruction of enamel by alkaline and acidic preparations and the constant use of coarse abrasive cleaners. One way or another, after 20-40 years of operation appearance The bath leaves much to be desired.
2. Changes in bathroom design. For example, a sea green bathtub fits exceptionally poorly with pink tiles. In addition, the unpainted outer surface of the bathtub is also not pleasing to the eye: the obvious solution is to bring it into harmony with the design of the rest of the room.

However: in most cases the healthier solution is to use decorative screen. Among other advantages, it will allow you to occupy the space under the bathroom for storage of washing powders and detergents.

Why not just replace the bathtub with a new one?

• The cost of a cast iron bathtub is not comparable to the cost of restoring the enamel coating.
• The weight and dimensions of the product make its transportation and installation… tedious, to put it mildly.
• Finally, tiles laid with overlapping edges mean that replacing the bathtub will entail a global renovation of the room, which is not always desirable.

Paint selection

Outside surface

What can you paint with? cast iron bath on your own if we're talking about not about the enamel coating, but about its outer surface?

Oh, we don't have to reinvent the wheel. Alkyd enamel on a penolphthalein base, PF-115 is quite suitable for our purposes. It can be applied directly to a cleaned and degreased surface; however, the coating will be more durable if it is laid on a layer of alkyd primer.

Related articles:

Inner surface

How to paint the inside of a cast iron bathtub?

The solutions available on the market can be divided into two main categories.

1. Multicomponent enamels based on epoxy resins provide an exceptionally durable and wear-resistant coating. Leaving a scratch on it is a big problem; however, enamels are quite toxic and require certain skills when applied.
2. Acrylic self-leveling enamels It is much easier to apply: they spread independently over the surface in a layer of constant thickness. The coating obtained after the composition has hardened predictably resembles the surface acrylic bathtub: the compositions are almost identical to each other.

What paint to paint a cast-iron bathtub is up to the owner to decide; However, we note once again that for a beginner who is restoring a bathtub for the first time, the acrylic coating turns out to be much more uniform.

Technology

Outside surface

How to paint the outside of a cast iron bathtub?

The instructions are quite standard for painting metal with alkyd enamel.

1. The surface is cleaned of all kinds of contaminants using any abrasive cleaning agent. It is an abrasive that should be used because it will help remove dried-on dirt.
2. The bath is degreased with gasoline or acetone.
3. The primer layer is applied with a brush. Drying it takes from 6 to 24 hours depending on the room temperature.
4. Then the enamel itself is applied with a brush, in two layers with intermediate drying. When applying the second layer, the brush moves perpendicular to the stripes left from the first. If necessary, the paint is diluted with solvent or white spirit: excessive thickness will force you to apply too thick a layer and guarantee drips.

Nuance: colors of many domestic producers Instead of the stated days, it takes three to four days to dry. You can speed up drying by installing a fan to blow over the surface.

Preparation of the internal surface

To ensure reliable adhesion of the enamel to the inner surface of the bathtub, we must make its coating rough.

How to achieve this?

1. Grinding. A drill, grinder with a wire brush or coarse sandpaper will help achieve the desired enamel condition in about a couple of hours.
2. Etching. Dry oxalic acid is diluted a small amount water and applied to the entire internal surface. Every 15 minutes, the drying bath is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. After an hour, the acid is completely washed off.

In addition, a number of additional measures will be required.

• The harness is dismantled. A tube rolled up from thick cardboard is inserted into the outlet hole: it will prevent paint from leaking onto the floor.

Hint: old steel straps are pre-annealed blowtorch or gas burner. Of course, it is not the bathtub that needs to be heated, but the massive cast-iron nut and the siphon bell underneath it. Sometimes soaking with kerosene helps to unscrew rusty threads.

• The surface is degreased.

Epoxy enamel

How to paint a bathtub - cast iron or steel - with epoxy enamel?

1. The composition is mixed with the hardener in portions sufficient to apply one layer.
2. The first layer is applied with a wide brush (a quality brush that does not lose lint during the painting process). The enamel is rubbed over the surface as evenly as possible.
3. The second layer is applied across the first after 15-20 minutes. The total number of coating layers can be up to four; the criterion of readiness is the complete absence of gaps. The main problem when applying is to avoid drips.

Every year the coating of a cast iron bathtub deteriorates. It loses its shine and attractiveness. The surface itself in some places becomes covered with rust and becomes rough. Washing in such a cast-iron bathtub does not bring any pleasure, and microcracks become clogged with dirt, from which you can get some kind of disease.

Replacing a bathtub is quite expensive, so most owners decide to restore it instead of replacing it. Nowadays, home conditions make it possible to paint the bathtub.

There are a lot of different companies doing this kind of work and individual entrepreneurs. They restore baths right in your home, and always with high quality.

To paint your bathtub yourself at home, it is necessary to study the technology of this matter and do everything in strict sequence.

To paint, you must have special paint for cast iron bathtubs and a hardener. You can only paint a cast iron structure with it. Paint dilution must be carried out exactly according to the attached instructions.

What paint is intended for painting a cast iron bathtub?

When purchasing paint for a cast iron bathtub, you must take into account the fact that it will come into contact with water every day. Bathroom always has high humidity. Therefore, coloring agents must be selected taking into account such conditions. The paint, the color of which I really liked, is not suitable here.

Such the paint should not react to a wet surface, it must have high adhesion. In other words, it must have excellent “adhesion” to the surface, otherwise the paint will begin to peel off quickly.

Various types of enamels are sold in stores. However, not all of them give positive results. Enamel for a cast iron bathtub in the form of aerosol cans will last very little. Exactly one year later the coating is destroyed.

So that the new coating is of high quality and lasts long years, it is best to use multi-component polyurethane enamel.

For painting bathtubs, the following paints are considered to be of the highest quality:

1. "Dulux"
2. "Tikkurila";
3. "Jobi".

The cast iron bathtub is painted in three layers. Each layer is applied with a new portion of paint. Hardening of the paint components after mixing occurs very quickly. After two hours it is no longer suitable for use. This must always be remembered. Therefore, a certain amount of paint must be prepared for each layer.

Before applying the next coat of paint, the previous one needs to be dried well and then degrease. All details of the technology for working with paint are described in the attached instructions.

Painting a cast iron bathtub at home

For painting, you can use acrylic paint or Stakryl enamel. After the preparatory work, this type of paint is poured onto the edges of the bathtub. It will drain on its own, filling all the cracks.

This method of painting a cast-iron bathtub with acrylic is the most productive for home use. However, he has one serious drawback. The fact is that acrylic itself has poor adhesion to old paint. It is held in place by the rough surface and structural integrity of the old bathtub.

It is enough to slightly scratch the acrylic layer and the destruction of the layer will occur very quickly. Water will get into the cracks and begin to tear off the acrylic in entire layers.

To increase the durability of this surface and prevent acrylic from quickly deteriorating, you need to paint the surface in several layers acrylic enamel. After all, if the thickness of the surface is increased, it will be very difficult to scratch through the surface.

Materials and tools

In order to paint a cast iron bathtub at home, you need to have the most different instruments, as well as related materials:

Painting technology

Special paint is sold in construction stores. Included in the most popular color palette includes several colors:

1. White;
2. Soft green;
3. Light blue.

There is an opinion that after painting a cast-iron bathtub with colored enamel, it is much more difficult to see existing defects on the surface.

The paint kit includes a special hardener, which is mixed with it before starting work. Professionals recommend dividing the paint into three or four parts. Do not dilute the entire jar at once. This is due to the fact that enamel tends to harden quickly. It is better to dilute it in small portions.

First, the surface is degreased. Starting restoration limescale must be removed and release work surface from the fat layer. For this purpose, active alkaline solutions are used.

At the second stage, the old enamel is removed. For this they use grinder. Sometimes a home craftsman does not have such a machine at hand; sandpaper can successfully replace it. The only disadvantage of working with sandpaper will be increased labor intensity and a large amount of time.

After cleaning, the old enamel is washed off with a strong stream of water. If during rinsing the treated surface begins to become covered with drops, it means that the degreasing process was done poorly. We'll have to repeat it.

Using a hairdryer, thoroughly dry the bath.

To protect the work surface from microparticles, it must be thoroughly vacuumed.

When everything is completely finished preparatory work, painting is carried out, a layer of paint is applied. According to the technological process, the paint should be applied from the edge of the side to the bottom of the bathroom. Paint application is done in several layers. The bottom of the bathtub is painted last.

However, we must not forget that not every old bath subject to restoration. For example, if on the surface, in addition to yellow spots, areas of cracked enamel are noticeable, ordinary painting will not be able to effectively solve the problem. The enamel layer will need to be replaced, but it will last for a very short period.

It is clear that home conditions will not allow you to create a coating equivalent to the factory one. Therefore, you must always remember that this surface restoration operation will have to be repeated every two to three years.

Of course, such work requires appropriate skills. But if the bathtub was old, it won’t be any worse. Try it You can paint the bath yourself to everyone, whatever the final result, useful experience will not be superfluous.

Each product has its own service life, which sooner or later ends. Any thing becomes unusable at some point, and cast iron bathtubs are no exception. Time and water have their effect on her Negative influence and lead to destruction of the enamel coating.

Agree, changing a bathtub is expensive and labor-intensive. More practical solution– restore the plumbing yourself.

We will tell you how and with what you can paint a cast-iron bathtub, give recommendations on choosing a method, and also give step by step instructions for product updates.

The enamel coating of the bathtub becomes thinner over time, rust appears on it under the influence of water, and if measures are not taken in time, the process may become irreversible. The bottom may simply rust to holes, and then the bathtub will no longer be able to be saved.

Bathtub covered with rust and limescale, looks, to put it mildly, not aesthetically pleasing. Without a doubt, put new bath will be the only correct decision if you plan to do major renovation, change tiles and plumbing. However, if repairs are still far away, then purchasing new bath will bring more problems than joy.

Modern cast iron bathtubs are not cheap, and you will also have to pay a considerable amount for delivery. Due to the large weight of the product, it is unlikely that you will be able to dismantle the old one yourself. You need to either ask friends and neighbors, or hire people, which again costs money.

Most likely, you will have to make repairs, even if they were not planned.

Image gallery

If there are chips and cracks on the surface, they must be puttied and then treated with sandpaper, after which the resulting dust must be removed again. At this point the preparation process is complete, you can start painting.

Restoring a bathtub using enamel

Enameling a cast iron bathtub is an old time-tested method that has been used for a very long time. But one should distinguish between professional enameling, which the bath undergoes during the production process, and home painting with enamel.

In the first case, professional compositions are used that require preheating cast iron to a certain temperature. It is impossible to paint a cast-iron bathtub at home in this way, and it is not necessary, since today there are easy-to-use and inexpensive enamel dyes for self-application.

Advantages and disadvantages of the method

Among the advantages of this painting method are:

• inexpensive cost;
• lack of installation work;
• Can be used on both cast iron and steel surfaces.

However, this method also has disadvantages:

• the coating turns out to be quite thin and fragile, the enamel is very sensitive to household cleaning products and impacts. Therefore, you will have to handle the bathtub very carefully so as not to inadvertently damage it;
• the coating does not eliminate severe defects: chips, dents, cracks;
• over time, yellowness forms on the surface;
• The enamel takes a long time to dry, so you can’t use the bathtub for about a week.

The service life of the coating ranges from 5 to 9 years. Although for those who are planning to make repairs in the future and replace the cast-iron bathtub with a new one, such a service life will certainly suit them.

A bath is an integral part of every home. However, during its operation, it loses its primary this type. In this case, the bathtub needs either replacement or restoration. The second option is less expensive, but to implement it, you need to study the technology of painting the bathtub. Let's look at how to paint a bathtub with enamel below.

Types of bathtubs with enamel coating

There are several methods that can be used to restore old bath. Before moving on to studying them, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the types of bathtubs that are most popular among buyers:

1. Cast iron bathtub - traditional version. Among their advantages are:

• Duration of operation - this type of bathtub will last you much longer than others alternative options, in addition, a cast-iron enameled bathtub can not lose its attractiveness for at least ten years;
• low thermal conductivity; if you fill such a bath with hot water, it will remain hot for a long time;
• high strength characteristics - due to its composition, cast iron is characterized by excellent reliability, it is not prone to cracking, sagging or deformation;
• ease of operation is another very significant advantage of a bathtub made of cast iron; cast iron is covered with a special layer of enamel, which does not accumulate dirt and is easily cleaned with a variety of means;
• aesthetic appearance - this advantage is carried out primarily due to the fact that the bathtub does not accumulate dirt and does not lose its original appearance.

2. A bathtub made of steel has its own advantages. Among them are:

• affordable cost compared to cast iron, steel baths are cheaper;
• lightness of weight, and, accordingly, simplification of installation work; the mass of a stacked bathtub is four times less than that of a cast-iron structure;
• heating speed, despite the fact that a cast iron bathtub retains heat for a very long time, it is quite difficult to heat it, but a steel bathtub is characterized by rapid heating, this condition is very important when it is necessary to bathe small children;
• a high level of hygiene is another advantage of a steel bathtub; due to the absence of pores in the enamel coating, such a bathtub is not able to accumulate dirt, it is easy to clean;
• due to high ductility, steel baths come in a variety of shapes, sizes and configurations;
• maintaining whiteness and shine for many years allows you to use the bathtub for a very long time, without repair or restoration.

Among the disadvantages steel baths note:

• possibility of deformation due to high loads;
• need for grounding;
• fast cooling;
• an unpleasant noise that appears the moment the bathtub fills with water;
• inability to clean the bathtub using aggressive cleaning compounds.

The main methods of restoring a bathtub: their characteristics

There are several ways to apply enamel to the surface of a bathroom. The choice of one or another painting method depends on the type and characteristics of the materials used in the work process.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the first option for bathroom restoration, which is called conventional enameling. After ten to twelve years from the date of purchase of an enamel bathtub, they need additional enamel coating.

The factory conditions in which a bathtub with an enamel coating is made simplifies the process of applying enamel to a bathtub made of steel or cast iron. First, the outer surface is heated until the bath turns red. Next, enamel-based powder is sifted on the inner surface; after a certain time, the powder combines with the metal surface. Thus, the factory coating is distinguished by its smoothness, uniformity, glossy shine and attractive appearance. However, for home use, this method is unacceptable.

Damage to the enamel layer occurs for the following reasons:

• frequent use of abrasives chemical compositions or powders for cleaning the surface of the bathtub from dirt;
• the use of chemicals used to clean sewer system, but which negatively affect the bath.

Thus, if these two factors constantly affect the bathtub over many years, its enamel gradually loses strength and begins to peel off, crack and become dirty.

In order to restore the enamel coating of a bathroom, you must first prepare the surface for applying enamel, and then paint it.

To perform these steps you will need:

• an electric drill that has an attachment such as a grinding wheel;
• abrasive powder;
• sandpaper;
• a product that transforms rust;
• degreasers;
• napkins, lint-free;
• brushes that have natural bristles;
• sprayer;
• gloves;
• protective mask for work;
• enamel, preferably with a two-component composition, which contains a hardening agent.

The first stage of working on a bathtub involves preparing its surface for work. The final result of the work and the duration of its further operation depend on the thoroughness of cleaning the bathroom. To prepare the bathtub for painting, follow these steps:

1. Sprinkle the surface of the bathtub with abrasive powder. After a certain amount of time, use sandpaper and a sanding wheel to remove the old enamel.

2. Treat rusty areas on the bathroom with transformative substances. Wait about 30 minutes and continue working.

4. Then the enamel layer and all the crumbs are washed off.

5. Using a fat splitter and a napkin, you need to clean the bathroom from foreign particles.

6. Put it in the bath hot water and warm it up for 15 minutes.

7. Drain the water and wait for the bath to dry; to speed up the process, use the same lint-free wipes.

8. The surface must be perfectly clean without any foreign particles or enamel residue.

Enameling the bathtubs is the next stage of work. To apply the enamel correctly, use the instructions below:

1. If you plan to use enamel, which contains two components, then first they are combined, and then the bath is covered with enamel.

2. Use a brush or spray to apply the first coat of paint.

4. Then the bath is covered with another layer of enamel.

How to paint a bathtub with enamel with your own hands: the second method of restoration

This method of restoring a bathtub is not yet as popular as the previous one. This is explained by the fact that the material used in its implementation appeared on the market several years ago. This substance is called staracryl. It appears in the form of a two-component substance used exclusively for the purpose of restoring bathtubs.

The material consists of the acrylic itself and the component that hardens it. In the process of combining these two components, polymerization occurs; after covering the bath with it, it acquires a uniform texture in the form of a film, with a thickness of 0.4 to 0.6 cm.

Among the advantages of painting with enamel in the form of starcryl, the following should be noted:

• high level of viscosity, thanks to this, all work is carried out easily and simply, also, this advantage helps to cover the surface with a sufficiently thick layer;
• good fluidity characteristics - the material covers the bath uniformly;
• the presence of delayed polymerization, that is, after combining the acrylic itself with the hardener, it does not polymerize instantly, but after a certain time, so the person working with it applies the material to the surface, and then it hardens in the bath;
• in addition, after acrylic hardens, the surface has high mechanical characteristics and impact strength.

How to enamel a bathtub using starcryl:

1. The first stage also involves preparing the bathroom for application of the composition. It consists of the same actions as in the previous version. However, after heating the bathtub and drying it, it is necessary to disconnect the siphon, and instead of the drain, you should install some kind of reservoir into which excess enamel will fall.

2. The second stage is the direct application of paint to the surface of the bathroom. To begin with, you should study the instructions from the manufacturer, in it you will find detailed description enamel preparation process. Next you have to paint. However, its implementation is very different from the previous version. This method is also called pouring, since the paint is gradually poured onto the surface, starting from the edge and moving to the middle.

3. After closing the circle, you should repeat the enamel pouring process again. Please note that the entire process must be continuous, so when preparing the paint you should use a container large enough to paint the entire bath.

4. Don’t skimp on paint; it’s better to splash out a little more material than to underpaint the surface. If the bath is not covered with a homogeneous and monolithic layer, then the process of its operation will be significantly reduced.

5. For acrylic to polymerize, you should wait 3 to 5 days. The longer it takes for the acrylic to dry, the longer your bathtub will last. It is on this basis that you should choose paint in the store.

After painting a bathtub using this method, it will last you at least 15 years.

The third method of applying enamel to a bathtub

For execution this method, use the instructions:

1. Use Pemolux and use it to thoroughly clean the bathtub. Any composition that has aggressive properties can replace this substance. First of all, after completing this process, the bath must be completely fat-free.

2. Next, the surface is polished using a grinder. Please note that if you have no experience with this tool, it is better to give preference sandpaper, as there is a risk of damage to the surface of the bath.

4. Using a regular hairdryer, dry the bathtub. Please note that the drainage part needs additional drying. Do not heat the bathtub with a hair dryer, as it only works high temperature, which can also damage the surface.

5. Remove the drain from the bathtub and place any container under it. Finally clean the bathtub from dust using a vacuum cleaner.

The next stage involves performing enameling. Divide the paint into two parts. The first part will be used to apply the base coat. Using a stiff bristle brush, start working. Please note that Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the bottom of the bath, since it is most susceptible to mechanical stress.

Immediately after applying the first coat, begin applying the second. This technology called “wet on wet”. After this, the surface is left alone for 10 minutes. If there are smudges on the bathtub, you should get rid of them; use a brush for this purpose. After the bath has dried, it is connected to the sewerage system and its operation begins.

Choosing enamel for the bathroom: which composition to choose

The process of painting a bathtub is preceded by the procedure for selecting materials for the work. We suggest focusing on expensive compounds, as they have higher performance characteristics.

In addition, you should pay attention to the drying time of the composition; the higher it is, the stronger the acrylic layer will be on the surface. Acrylic-based compositions do not differ in a variety of colors; in this matter, individual preferences should be guided. Try not to choose a bathroom enamel that is more than one shade different from the old coat. Otherwise, there is a risk of show-through old surface and the appearance of heterogeneous inclusions on the surface of the bathroom.

If you decide to repaint the yellow bathtub snow-white White color, then we recommend buying a little more paint and applying it in several layers. Also, when choosing enamel, be sure to read the instruction manual and compare it with your capabilities.

Advice: Prepare the two-component composition for work only after the bath has been cleaned of old enamel, washed and dried.

It is possible to use bathroom aerosols, but the service life of such a coating does not exceed five years. So it's better to spend a little more money and strength so that the enamel-coated bathtub will serve you for at least 10 years.

Paint a bathtub with enamel yourself video:

The topic is of interest to many; it is generally accepted that painting a bathtub with enamel at home is the cheapest and most practical way to restore old coatings. The outer surface will not only be restored, but will also exceed the characteristics of enamel in many respects. In order to understand the issue and accept correct solution by recovery methods external coverings baths, you need to know what real enamel is, how surfaces are coated and whether it is possible to obtain an identical layer at home, even using the most expensive materials.

By physical properties resembles a glass-like coating fused onto metal surface baths. Its physical properties are similar to glass, but have increased strength. It has a slightly lower coefficient of thermal expansion than metal, which eliminates the risk of delamination during heating of the base; the strength reaches 350 MPa.

On iron, it is first applied to a primer coating, and then enamel - the adhesion coefficient increases. The color changes due to additives: blue color - cobalt oxide, green color– copper oxide, white – magnesium carbonate. Annealing temperature up to +900°C. At such temperatures, the glass melts, turns into a dense, homogeneous layer and firmly adheres to the surface of the bath. Only such a coating has the right to be called enamel.

People of the older generation remember very well how, during the times of developed socialism and general prosperity, it was impossible to buy natural coffee; it was “obtained through connections.” But all the store shelves were filled with barley coffee. The advertisement claimed that it was much better than natural coffee, contained a large amount of vitamins and other useful substances, tasted no different, was just as invigorating, etc. Although in fact this ersatz product was a little reminiscent of natural coffee only in color.

Conclusion. From a physical point of view, enamels do not exist in cans and jars. These are ordinary paints with the addition of performance-improving fillers. This is exactly how you should consider renovating a bathtub; you will be working not with enamel, but with various types paints Their choice is wide, there are many varieties.

Types of enamel for bath restoration

Now you can begin to consider what paints are called enamel, what are the differences, what advantages and disadvantages they have. This information will help you decide on a specific choice of paint (enamel).

Name	Brief characteristics
	Used to cover bathtubs for over 15 years, it consists of epoxy resin, fillers and hardener. It has high hardness and good adhesion properties. The coating is not afraid of aggressive chemical compounds, the outer surface is glossy. Disadvantages - due to toxicity, safety regulations must be followed, after preparation there is a limited time for use, low-quality epoxy paints become yellow when exposed to ultraviolet rays.
	Drying time is no more than thirty minutes, has good adhesion to natural enamel. Available in cans, which greatly simplifies the application process. The main drawback is that the durability of the coating is poor; the bathtub will have to be repainted until a new one is installed. The frequency of repainting largely depends on the accuracy of the technology. It is not uncommon for detachments to appear within a month or two.
	There are names like “latex enamel”, “liquid acrylic”, but in fact it is a two-component polyurethane paint. Performance indicators are at an average level; proper application and use increases the service life up to ten years.
	Ordinary water-dispersed waterproof paint with ordinary characteristics. Worst choice for coverage internal surfaces of all possible baths. But in terms of price and manufacturability, it is the most affordable.

Reaflex 50 - Reaflex 50

Bath enamel "Renaissance"

You need to choose the type of coverage based on your own wishes and financial capabilities. Do not forget that the quality and durability of the coating depends not only on the materials, but also on the professionalism of the contractor.

Practical advice. We recommend using this method of restoring bathtubs for temporary residences. The less often you use the bathtub, the longer the coating will last. There is no need to explain why such a dependence exists.

Tools

Once you have decided on a specific brand of enamel, you need to prepare the tools. They will be needed to clean the bathtub and protect adjacent surfaces from paint.

1. Electric drill. Power does not matter; with its help, surfaces are cleaned of solid deposits. But do not take it heavier, it is difficult to hold in your hands, there is a risk of leaving deep marks from abrasive tools.
2. Sandpaper. The numbers are different, from 80 to 200. Coarse-grained will be used to remove dirt, fine-grained will smooth out scratches from abrasive material. Do not remove hard deposits with wire brushes; they will leave black marks on the surface. It is very difficult to get rid of them. Metal brushes only clean rust on metal, not enamel.

   In the photo - coarse sandpaper

3. Rubber Grinding Wheel. Sanding paper with a diameter of no more than 15 cm is attached to it. With a large circle it is difficult to clean deposits in the bends of the bathtub. Another nuance - do not use too hard ones; the thickness of the rubber is within two millimeters.
4. Degreasers (acetone, solvents), caustic soda, acidic detergents. There is no need to skimp on degreasers. Oily surfaces main enemy high-quality coating. If unevenness spoils the appearance of the coating, then greasy surfaces cause its peeling. You will have to repair or completely repaint the surface.
5. Tassels. Don't use cheap ones; hairs fall out of them and stick to the paint. It is difficult to remove them; if you did not notice them in time and the paint has already dried, then it is impossible without a trace. Be sure to take all measures to remove loose hairs before use. Press the brush firmly onto the surface and move it in different directions. First, the brush should be dry, and then dip it into the paint. If hairs are constantly coming out of it, then it is better to buy a new one of better quality.
6. Facilities personal protection respiratory organs. Some paints and degreasers are so toxic that working without a respirator is prohibited. Rubber gloves will also be required. Problems may arise if the bathtub is painted in a residential apartment. Take all measures to ensure that fumes do not spread to other rooms; for ventilation, use only the existing ventilation in the bathtub. Leave the room while drying.
7. With its help, surfaces are protected from paint.
8. If you have to remove the siphon, you will need screwdriver. The siphon elements do not need to be dismantled. We will tell you how to protect them from paint in the article below.
9. Mixer. Needed for high-quality mixing of two-component enamels. No store-bought ones - use homemade ones. It can be made from a piece of wire approximately 35–40 cm long. Bend the lower end into a P shape and clamp the upper end into the chuck. This mixer works no worse than a commercial device. And in the case of mixing paints, it’s even better. The fact is that factory copies form air bubbles during mixing, and this is bad. Homemade has no such drawback. True, they will have to work longer, but the volumes of paint are small and the increase in time is not critical.

Think about what enamels you will use to cover the bathtub and purchase paints in the required quantities. That's all, now you can start the actual work.

Surface preparation

The better the surface of the bathtub is prepared, the more reliable the coating will be. Even the most expensive enamel will fall off after several baths if gross deviations from the recommended technology are allowed during coating.

Step 1. Inspect the condition of the bath, select a cleaning algorithm. It is best to use sandpaper; with its help you can not only remove hard deposits of rust, but also level the surface. Enamel paints cover the surface thin layer, all the tubercles will be visible through it. You can only tighten up uneven areas at the bottom, and even then manufacturers do not recommend pouring one thick layer of paint, but applying several thin ones. Such features place increased demands on surfaces. The exception is epoxy and acrylic enamels. They are poured in a layer up to 2 mm thick, this is enough for final leveling surfaces with paints.

Step 2. Place 80-grit sandpaper on the sanding wheel and begin sanding away any hard deposits and rust. There is no need to press the tool too hard against the surface; it is better to make several passes over one place. The work is dusty, close the door and window to the bathroom, otherwise drafts will carry dust throughout all rooms. Do not rub the enamel down to the metal, do not leave deep marks after passing grinding wheel. It is advisable to work in a respirator.

Step 3. Clean the surface from dust; you can use a soft, dry cloth or vacuum cleaner. Inspect the surfaces again and correct problem areas.

Step 4. In order for the outer surface of the bath to be perfectly smooth, you need to sand it. Work with sandpapers with a number above 100, select specific values ​​taking into account the depth of the scratches. Don't expect the paint to spread and hide all the imperfections, it won't. Especially if you cover surfaces with a spray can.

Important. Polishing the walls of the bathtub is strictly prohibited. If some areas of the bathtub did not require cleaning and remained perfectly smooth, then they need to be manually wiped with Scotch Brite. The grain size of the material is from P180 to P1000. To make it easier to determine the grain size, it has various colors. Green (the roughest), used to treat the surface of the bathtub before applying putty to chipped areas of enamel. Red for primer, gray for finishing coat of paint. To increase adhesion, each dried layer of paint should be wiped with Scotch Brite. This lengthens the process a little, but significantly improves the quality. Don’t be lazy, it’s better to do everything according to technology right away than to repaint the bathtub later.

At the end of the work, carefully remove any remaining dust; the bathtub should be perfectly clean before painting. Avoid drafts, as they cause dust to appear on cleaned surfaces and paint.

Step 5. Vacuum the surface very thoroughly; a cloth will not remove fine dust from micro-scratches after sanding or wiping with Scotch Brite.

Step 6. Degrease the surface of the bathtub.

You can use special solutions or ordinary solvents. Follow safety precautions, these substances are very toxic. Ventilate and, if possible, ventilate the room, work in a respirator and rubber gloves.

Repairing enamel chips

This operation must be performed without fail. Why? Firstly, paint will not hide the difference in height, especially on the side surfaces of the bathtub. Secondly, bath paint (enamel) is designed for adhesion to natural enamel; the coefficient of adhesion to metal is low; in these places it will quickly peel off.

Automotive materials are used for embedding. High Quality, work with finishing putty.

Mix the components in portions on a metal spatula and apply to the bath rubber spatula. The surface must first be cleaned from rust to pure iron using sandpaper or a metal brush. Next, dust is removed from the surface, enamel around problem area processed with green scotch-brite. Try to apply the putty evenly, this will make further sanding much easier.

If there are cracks in the enamel, they must first be cleaned with the tip of a thin knife. Don't be discouraged if the enamel chips away at the edges, this is good. It will break off anyway, only after that you will have to repair the bath again. It goes without saying that before applying putty, the surfaces must be degreased.

Video - Puttying chips on a restored bathtub

Surface protection

Protect adjacent surfaces from paint as much as possible. This is much faster and easier to do than later removing dried paint. Cover the perimeter around the bathtub with masking tape, protect the decorative screen, and cover the floor with film or newspapers.

There is another quick one effective method protecting surfaces from paint. They are carefully lubricated with technical Vaseline or ordinary grease. There is no need to apply a thick layer, tenths of a millimeter are enough. The main thing is that the lubricant does not touch the surface being painted. After finishing the work, Vaseline or grease is removed with a rag, the surfaces remain in their original form.

Check how dry the surface of the bathtub is. Completely dry - start painting with enamel.

Use only special brands of bath paint; they are more expensive, but provide better adhesion to the enamel surface.

Painting with enamel from a can

Important. If painting is done a few days after preparing the bath, be sure to thoroughly vacuum the surface again. The dust may be invisible to the naked eye, but underneath the paint will have tiny bubbles and will certainly peel off in the future. In addition, dirt accumulates faster on the surface around the bumps and they become noticeable.

Step 1. Buy special bath paint. It is advisable to take one cylinder in reserve, it will always come in handy later.

Step 2. Read the instructions for use and strictly follow all the manufacturer’s recommendations. Shake the container. There is a metal ball inside, it should make the contents uniform in consistency.

Step 3. Put on a respirator and decide on the painting sequence. It is better to start from the bottom surface of the sides, this is the most hard to reach places. Next, move to the side surfaces and end with the bottom. The distance from the can nozzle to the surface is approximately 10 cm. Movements should be smooth and without stopping. Do not leave gaps, do not allow drips. The paint dries quickly and it is impossible to remove streaks. Even after high-quality sanding and repainting, marks will remain.

Step 4. Apply the first coat of paint and allow time to dry.

There are two methods for increasing adhesion between layers of paint.

1. The first layer should not be completely dry before applying the second. How to find out? Carefully run your fingertips over the paint; it should “squeak” a little; your fingers will barely noticeably slow down. If you apply a second layer on it, the connection between them will improve significantly. Only people can do this experienced painters, if you are doing this business for the first time in your life, then it is better not to take risks.
2. Give plenty of time to dry. Next, it is recommended to use Scotch Brite. You can buy it in specialized automotive stores or from station employees Maintenance. Buy Scotch Brite gray, it is used under finishing layer. The material leaves microscopic scratches on the surface, which are invisible to the eye. But due to them, the surface area increases significantly, and the adhesion strength of the next layer increases significantly.

Practical advice. Use Scotch Brite to cover the entire surface, leaving no gaps. Monitor treated surfaces carefully. We have already said that it is impossible to visually distinguish cleaned surfaces from unprotected ones. It is better to walk over the surface of the bath three to four times; this will take no more than ten minutes.

Step 5. Apply the following layers of paint using the same algorithm. We recommend painting the bathroom three times, each layer with a minimum thickness. It must be remembered that the thickness of the paint does not have a decisive influence on the adhesion strength. If the first layer is applied to a poorly prepared and poorly degreased surface, the paint will definitely peel off. The thickness of the layer slightly increases protection from water, but the coating will crack at the slightest mechanical force. It is almost impossible for non-professionals to make invisible repairs at home. Such work can be done by high-class craftsmen.

Painting with two-component enamel with a brush

The surface of the bath is prepared as described above. You can use a small roller for painting, but you still can’t do without a brush. With its power, hard-to-reach areas are finished. In addition, you need to use a brush to go where the bathtub adjoins the walls, and carefully handle the drain and overflow holes. And one more problem with the roller. The paint must be poured into a special flat container, and a large surface area speeds up the drying process. You will have to work very quickly, and this will lead to defects. We specifically consider the most difficult option– two-component paints. This can be acrylic or epoxy paints. There is no fundamental difference in application technology, we will not dwell on this. You can pour paints, but you can’t do without a brush or roller. You will have to fill in the gaps, remove excess material from the bottom, and paint the sides on the bottom and sides. These surfaces cannot be flooded. But not only for these reasons we recommend using a brush. With its help, you can obtain a layer of equal thickness, save material, and speed up the hardening process. We will tell you step-by-step instructions for working with a brush.

Step 1. Prepare two-component bath enamel. Follow the instructions, mix the hardener with the base in the required proportion.

Important. Prepare only the amount of paint that you can use within 40–50 minutes; after an hour, the composition will begin to harden under the influence of chemical reactions.

Mix very thoroughly for at least 5 minutes. It is difficult to work by hand; it is better to use a drill with a special mixer. Reduce the speed of the cartridge; too fast rotation causes the formation of air bubbles, which will then have to be dealt with.

Step 2. Place the container with the prepared paint in the bath, prepare a brush, and remove loose hairs from it. The width of the brush is approximately five centimeters. It is quite convenient to work with; all adjacent surfaces can be carefully traced. If the container with paint is in the bath, it will not accidentally tip over, and less paint will fall on the floor. Pour the mixture onto the sides and sides of the bathtub and let it drain. Now you need to paint the bottom and side surfaces sides, eliminate gaps and process the bottom. Some areas cannot be filled, and some take a long time. Now it’s better to work with a brush.

Step 3. Wet the brush with paint no more than 1/3 of the way. Remove excess paint on the side of the container. To completely prevent paint from dripping, keep the brush in a horizontal position and constantly rotate it slowly around its axis. Do this until you begin to paint the surface of the bathtub. The brush handle should be perpendicular to the surface being painted or at a slight angle.

Step 4. When painting vertical surfaces, start at the top and work down. In this way, the walls of the bathtub are better covered, the paint flows down itself, the brush only smears it, making it the same thickness. If the marks are very deep, then they need to be slightly leveled by moving the tip of the brush in a horizontal direction.

Step 5. Constantly monitor the appearance of sagging and drips, and if found, immediately level them. You need to level it with horizontal movements of the tip of the brush. If the influx is pulled up, then after a certain time it will appear again.

Step 6. You need to treat the bathtub with two-component paints at a time, calculate your strength, control the time. Proceed to the bottom only after the sides and vertical surfaces have been painted.

Step 7 Remove the paint container and place it on the floor. Choose a place in such a way as to eliminate the possibility of it tipping over.

Step 8 When moving the brush from the container on the floor to the bottom of the bath, do not forget to keep it in a horizontal position and constantly rotate. Start painting from a clean surface and move towards the drain hole. Smooth out paint that is too thick. Don't be afraid if there are small brush marks left, they will disappear after a short time.

The quality of painting largely depends on its thickness. Keep in mind that the bathtub coloring technology is slightly different from the treatment wooden surfaces. The fact is that wood quickly absorbs paint, but the surface of the bathtub does not. Accordingly, you need to take less material onto the brush and more carefully even out the thickness. The number of layers depends on the type of bath enamel. With two-component compositions, the bathtub is covered with one layer 1–2 mm thick. The second is applied only in case of marriage. One-component paints are applied in two to three layers, each thickness no more than 0.5 mm.

Treat the process with great responsibility. Restoring a bathtub with enamel paints is already not very reliable; the service life of such coatings leaves much to be desired. And if you don’t follow the technology, it won’t last even a month. You will have to repair it (traces will remain), completely remove the paint with sandpaper (long and dusty), or buy a new bathtub (the optimal solution). Which option to choose - decide for yourself, we only give advice and step-by-step instructions technological process. Using the instructions, you can significantly increase the service life of a restored bath with minimal financial losses.

How to extend the use of a painted bathtub

If you follow the rules for using a bathroom renovated in this way, the paint can remain intact for several years.

1. Do not soak laundry in the bathtub. Moreover, do not add washing powder to the water.
2. Wash the surface only laundry soap, do not use aggressive detergents.
3. Do not leave the bathtub filled with water for a long time, and do not fill it with very hot water.
4. Do not place too much faith in the manufacturer's advertising about the durability of the enamel coating. Absolutely everything operational indicators they are many times worse than classic enamel.

Bottom line. If you want the paint not to fall off after a few months, treat the coating very carefully.

Decorating the interior surfaces of the bath

If your water does not meet the quality requirements and has a lot of divalent iron ions, then noticeable rusty spots will certainly appear on the surface of the white bathtub. It is impossible to prevent their appearance, you can only delay it a little. In order for the surface of the bathtub not to lose its attractiveness for a long time, it is not necessary to paint it white; add different colors to the paint and make the bathtub blue, green, etc. If you want, create a unique and original external and internal surface. This will take a lot of time, but the result will surpass the wildest expectations. By the way, in such a bath the defect becomes less noticeable.

How can you decorate your bath?

Drawings

Can you draw? Great. Buy multi-colored acrylic paints and a set of brushes. Draw sea themes, various fish, algae, etc. The complexity of the drawing is limited only by your talent and desires. Subsequently, the drawings must be coated with a protective varnish. We will tell you how this is done and what varnishes to use below.

The option is simpler and anyone can do it. You can buy a stencil in a store; today the choice is quite wide, both in theme and size. Choose single-color (easier) or multi-color options (more difficult to work with). It is not possible to purchase ready-made stencils - cut them out yourself from thick paper.

How to apply a design to the surface of a bathtub using a stencil?

Attach the prepared stencil to the wall of the bathtub. There are several methods of fixation.

1. First. Masking tape. It's quick and easy to do, but paint may leak into the gap between the stencil and the surface of the bathtub. We recommend using this method only for the bottom of the bathtub.
2. Second. Using contact spray adhesive. It is sprayed evenly over the entire outer surface of the stencil and polymerizes after 2 minutes. The composition adheres firmly to the stencil, and the outer surface is sticky for a long time. Do not rush to immediately glue the stencil to the surface; let the composition completely polymerize. Everything is ready - glue the stencil, carefully level it with a dry cloth or sponge. After the paint dries, the stencil peels off, leaving no traces on the paint surface. Great way, allows you to glue stencils on the curves of the bathtub, completely eliminating paint leakage.

Paint can get into the cracks for several reasons: it is too thin or too much, using a large brush to apply. To obtain a high-quality drawing, do not put a lot of paint on the brush, gently touch the surface of the bath. Move the brush away from the edge of the stencil.

You can also use a sponge. Gently touch the surface of the sponge soaked in paint to the areas to be painted, making only back-and-forth movements. It is strictly forbidden to move the sponge from left to right. If you apply complex multi-colored designs, then you can start the second one only after the first one has completely dried. When fixing the stencil, carefully ensure that the general lines of the drawings completely coincide. A multi-colored design can be done with one stencil, but this will require extreme caution. If there are small multi-colored elements, then to paint them in different colors you need to use professional artist brushes.

Decoupage

It is recommended to do with outside baths, but you can try to decorate the inner surface in this way. The decoupage technique is simple - cut out any designs you like and glue them to the surfaces of the bathtub. The only requirement is that the paper on which there are drawings must be as thin as possible. Otherwise, they will rise above the surface; although this is uncritical, it is ugly.

There are a large number of waterproof varnishes on sale; all manufacturers promise “high resistance.” But practice shows that they cannot be used for bathtubs; after just a few months of using the bathtub, they first develop microcracks, then these cracks increase, the edges of the varnish bend upward and break off. The result of this process is that the bathtub needs to be completely redone or completely thrown away. Both options cannot be considered satisfactory.

To avoid such an unpleasant situation, buy a special yacht varnish on the Internet; it costs approximately twice as much as usual. But this is not a big financial problem, you don’t need to buy a bucket of varnish, half a liter jar is enough. Varnishing is necessary not only to protect the design, it additionally increases the time you can use the bathtub. Thanks to its excellent physical characteristics, the surface does not change its original appearance for a long time.

Types of yacht varnishes

Names	Composition and brief performance characteristics
Akidlak	Manufactured by alkyd based, one-component, used as additional protection between layers of paint. Does not react to detergents, complete drying time is at least 16 hours.
Aurlak	Made on an alkyd-urethane base, withstands average mechanical loads, drying time is 8 hours. Resistant to various chemical compounds, including aggressive ones. Recommended for coating the internal surfaces of bathtubs.
Aurlak Express	Made on an alkyd-urethane base, drying time is reduced to two hours. Abrasion resistance is lower than that of Aurlak.
Polyurlak	Two-component, with high physical strength, resistant to all chemical compounds. Dries in 45 minutes.

yacht varnish

Their implementation will improve the quality of painting.

Video - How to paint a bathtub with enamel