Growing garden strawberries from seeds. Proper planting of strawberries with seeds: secrets of successful germination and seedling care

Seedlings are sown for seedlings from January to March. If there is no artificial additional lighting, then it is better not to rush into sowing strawberry seeds and carry it out in April, when there is enough light - otherwise the seedlings will become very elongated and develop poorly. You can sow strawberry seeds in open ground in the summer - then they will bear fruit the next year.
To sow strawberry seeds for seedlings, take low (7-10 cm) bowls with drainage holes and a layer of drainage, fill them with a substrate from a nutrient mixture of light leaf soil and sand (1.5:1), moisten the substrate with warm water. Strawberry seeds are very small; carry out their rare surface sowing, lightly pressing the seeds into moist soil (or lightly sprinkle the crops (1-2 mm) with sifted substrate). The bowl with the crops is covered with glass or film. It is necessary to regularly wipe or shake off the condensation that forms, ventilate the crops, and spray the drying soil with a spray bottle.

Until the strawberries sprout, you can keep the bowl in the dark. The recommended temperature for germination of strawberry seeds is about 18 degrees (if possible) heat, then seed germination will slow down). Stratification of strawberry seeds increases germination - at least 10 days at low positive temperatures (+3-+7 degrees).
Strawberry seeds germinate very unevenly. The first shoots appear after 2 weeks, and mass shoots usually after 3-4 weeks. Then the film is removed from the bowl and the seedlings are placed in a very bright, cool (15-17 degrees) place. The most important thing is to carefully moisten the soil between the tender strawberry shoots to prevent it from drying out or excessive moisture - otherwise the seedlings will die.

Thickened seedlings that interfere with each other will need to be thinned out so that development is not hampered. Strawberry seedlings carefully dive into light, nutritious soil when they have 2-3 true leaves. When picking, it is important to plant the seedlings at the same depth as they grew previously (without deepening or raising the “heart” of the bush above the soil surface).
When the strawberry seedlings take root after grafting and noticeably begin to grow, they begin to be hardened - gradually accustomed to fresh air and the sun. Strong plants are transplanted into the ground after hardening at the end of spring frosts; Usually, by this time the bushes already have six or more true leaves. The distance between strawberry bushes when planting depends on the characteristics of the variety (about 30 cm from each other).
Choose a sunny place for strawberries in the garden. The soil should be fertile, but without excess nitrogen - otherwise the strawberries will develop a lush head of leaves, but there will be few berries. In the absence of rain, regularly water the strawberry bushes, especially during the period of their rooting after transplantation.
The first harvest of strawberries will delight the owners within 4-5 months after sowing the seeds for seedlings. Usually, two to three years after planting, strawberry bushes grow greatly; then, for rejuvenation, they are dug up, divided and transplanted to a new place.

Growing strawberries from seeds is not easy, but it is exciting. It is important to follow several rules in order to get a flowering and fruiting bush.

Growing strawberries from seeds

For a long time, strawberries have migrated from gardens and vegetable gardens to window sills and loggias in ordinary apartments. Most often, remontant garden strawberries (often called strawberries) are grown at home. You can choose plants to suit almost any taste and color, and seedlings are obtained by growing from seeds.

Seeds from trusted agricultural companies can be bought in stores. Another option is to collect seeds from the fruits of your garden beds, but after open pollination between several varieties you will have a hybrid plant with special qualities.

Strawberries are often planted in flowerpots or hanging pots

Collecting seeds

You can collect strawberry seeds only from varietal bushes, not from hybrids. Otherwise, your young plants will not retain their maternal qualities.


Video: how to collect strawberry seeds

Preparing the soil for seedlings

Most often, strawberry seedlings are grown at home, much less often - directly in the garden. The shoots appear small and tender, in open ground they may die.

For strawberry seedlings, the easiest way is to use ready-made universal soil from the store. Usually there are no pathogenic microflora in it, and the composition of the soil is quite suitable for growing strawberries.

There are special soil mixtures for strawberries on sale, but you can use universal peat-based soils

Proportions of components for self-study soil:

  • 1/2 part of turf land;
  • 1/4 part peat;
  • 1/4 part sand.

It is useful to add a little to this mixture wood ash and vermicompost. The soil must be steamed in an oven or steam bath for about 30 minutes to destroy weed seeds, eggs or insect larvae. The sterile soil must be left to rest for about 3 weeks; it is advisable to add beneficial bacteria to it by watering it with Baikal EM1 or Siyanie.

Baikal EM1 contains beneficial bacteria that help the plant absorb nutrients from the soil

Sowing seeds for seedlings

Strawberry seeds are slow to germinate. On the bags, manufacturers indicate the germination period from 1 week to 2 months. This process can be accelerated by pre-soaking or stratifying the seeds.

Seeds collected or purchased in a store are soaked in rain or melted snow water for 3 days. You will have to change the water 2 times a day. During this time, the seeds will swell. They are laid out in plates on damp paper napkins, wrapped in plastic bag and place in a warm place, making sure that the napkins do not dry out. Hatched seeds can be planted in individual peat tablets or in rows in boxes.

During germination, seeds must be constantly kept in a moist environment.

Stratification is the long-term holding of plant seeds at a certain temperature to accelerate their germination. Strawberry seeds can be stratified either soaked or already planted in boxes.

Stratification of soaked seeds

Wet seeds are poured into small saucers and covered with film, then they are placed in a cool place with a temperature of 2–4 0 C, ideally on a refrigerator shelf. Once a week, the seeds need to be checked: ventilated and added water if necessary. Seeds in this state can be stratified for 3 weeks to 3 months.

For stratification, seeds are placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.

Stratification of planted seeds

The planted seeds are moistened and, covered with film, also put in the refrigerator. The box can be kept at a temperature of 2–4 0 C for about a month, and then transferred to a warm place. Usually after this the shoots appear together.

Bubbling seeds

Another way to increase seed germination is bubbling. This is a process in which the seeds are kept in warm water with air. The most simple circuit- lower the tube from the aquarium compressor into a liter jar of warm melt (rain) water. Seeds should be placed in a gauze bag or poured directly into a jar (if one variety), turn on the compressor for 2 days. It is important that the water temperature is about 25 o C. After bubbling, the seeds are slightly dried and sown as usual.

Hard-germinating strawberry seeds are bubbling for 2 days

Sowing seeds in boxes

You can sow strawberries both in boxes and in peat tablets.


Sowing seeds in the snow

Sowing seeds in the snow is one of the most simple ways obtaining seedlings.


When the snow melts, the seeds are slightly pulled into the soil; you no longer need to sprinkle them.

When to sow strawberries

Strawberries from seeds require heat and sun. In addition, it grows for a long time - it needs about 5 months before the flower stalks begin to develop, so it should be sown in February. Good strawberry seedlings will grow only at air temperatures above 23 0 C and daylight hours of 12–14 hours. Therefore, in February she definitely needs illumination with phytolamps. If there are no such conditions, then plant strawberries in March - April.

Care after landing

Boxes with planted strawberries should be kept in a warm place; the seeds can germinate both in the light and in the dark. Check and ventilate the greenhouses at least once a day, removing drops of condensation from the film. Depending on the freshness of the seeds, the manufacturer and pre-treatment, seedlings may appear in either a week or a month.

Seedling care

After the first shoots appear, the boxes must be moved to the brightest place, under phytolamps or to a south window. It is better not to remove the film yet - too dry air in the apartment will destroy young tender shoots in a few hours. Therefore, it is better to take trays with transparent lids. You need to water with a syringe or spray with a spray bottle, because young seedlings only slightly cling to the soil with their roots.

Strawberry shoots are very tender, it is better to leave the shelter for the first time

Picking seedlings

It is advisable to pick seedlings after 2–3 true leaves appear. A week before this, the seedlings need to be accustomed to room air; to do this, they begin to open the lid of the greenhouse for a few minutes or leave a slightly noticeable crack. Every day the crack is increased and then the lid is removed completely. Be sure to keep an eye on the soil: if it dries out, the plants will die.

Seedlings ready for picking should have 2–3 true leaves

For picked seedlings, individual pots with a volume of 200–250 ml are suitable; you can take universal soil, but add 0.5 liters of vermicompost to 10 liters of substrate.


The first time after picking, you need to carefully watch the seedlings. If the room is dry and hot, you need to spray the leaves warm water.

To relieve stress in plants, you can add HB 101 to the water (1 drop per 0.5 l).

Feeding seedlings

2 weeks after picking, you can start feeding strawberry seedlings. At this time, seedlings should be actively growing, so it is better to use fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen. Can be used both liquid and water-soluble dry mineral fertilizers. Frequency of use: 1 time every 7–10 days.

Fasco - fertilizer for young plants, the composition is dominated by nitrogen

Caring for strawberry seedlings

The main care of strawberries before planting in the ground or flower pots consists of watering, fertilizing, and spraying.

  1. You need to water the strawberries so that the earthen ball does not dry out, but is not waterlogged either. You need to focus on the condition of the soil. For example, seedlings standing on a south window under the sun's rays will dry out much more often than seedlings standing under lamps in the back of the room.
  2. Plants need to be sprayed with water periodically to maintain optimal humidity, because in dry and hot air strawberries can be susceptible to attack by pests: spider mite, thrips.
  3. It is not advisable to loosen the seedlings, since root system Strawberries are superficial and can be damaged.
  4. Day length for better growth should be around 12-14 hours.

Good strawberry seedlings have powerful leaves and developed roots

Planting seedlings in open ground

3–4 months after germination, seedlings can be planted in open ground or on permanent place in flowerpots - for indoor growing. Plants are planted in open ground from mid-May, or after the temperature during the day is about 20 o C, and at night 15 o C. Before planting, the seedlings need to be hardened; for this, during the week they are taken out into the open air for several hours (first 0.5 hours during the day, then for 1–1.5 hours, then left for a longer period).

If it is not possible to do hardening, then strawberry seedlings can be placed in a greenhouse or hotbed. It is very important to harden off plants that have grown without access sun rays. After planting unprepared seedlings in a garden bed, tender leaves can get scorched under the bright sun.

Transplant process:

  1. Seedlings are well watered before planting in the ground.
  2. In the prepared bed, holes are made at a distance of 30 to 50 cm between plants (depending on the variety).
  3. The seedlings are removed from the pot. If the roots are twisted into a spiral, then they need to be straightened, and if they are too long, they need to be trimmed.
  4. The lump is placed in the hole so that the plant is at the same ground level as in the pot.
  5. The soil around the strawberries is crushed and watered.

It’s not for nothing that garden strawberries are called strawberries. To prevent rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil, the bushes are mulched with cut straw. This also helps protect the crop from rot.

Video: planting strawberry seedlings in the ground

Alternative ways to plant strawberry seeds

In addition to planting in pots, strawberry seeds can be grown in peat tablets and in a snail.

Video: planting strawberries in a snail

Video: planting strawberries in peat tablets

Which varieties are best for growing from seeds?

Before the start of the season, ask yourself the question: where and why will you plant strawberries.

  • container growing at home or on the balcony: you will need remontant varieties and hybrids with different sizes berries;
  • cultivation in open ground: varieties or hybrids of ordinary large-fruited strawberries;
  • growing in a greenhouse for sale: varieties of large-fruited, high-yielding remontant strawberries.

In addition, there are varieties that do not produce whiskers or produce few of them. Some varieties bear fruit not only on the mother plant, but also on rosettes formed on the tendrils.

Alpine varieties and hybrids of strawberries

Alpine varieties are distinguished by small berries, mainly with the aroma of wild strawberries. Most often - beardless, but varieties have appeared that give a small amount of mustache Alpine strawberries bloom and bear fruit all season long; they are more adapted to shady places and is successfully grown on loggias, balconies, apartments, as well as on alpine roller coaster in open ground.

Table: popular varieties of alpine strawberries

NameDescription
AlexandriaThe berry weight is from 3 to 5 g, very aromatic, juicy, dark red. The bushes are dense and do not produce whiskers.
Ali BabaBeardless strawberries, fragrant berries, can grow up to 5 g, color is bright pink. The plant is wide due to its ability to bush quickly.
Baron SolemacherBushes up to 20 cm high, not producing whiskers. The berry is sweet, aromatic, weighing up to 4 g.
Snow WhiteStrawberries with an unusual berry color - white, with the smell and taste of pineapple. The bushes do not produce tendrils; they are densely leafy, but small.
Forest fairy taleMedium-sized bush that does not produce whiskers. Very different abundant flowering and fruiting. Weight of berries - 4 g. Color - red.
RuyanaBarnless strawberry, distinguished by tall peduncles. Berries from 2 to 5 g, red, aromatic, very tasty.
White SoulCompact bush, no more than 15 cm high, with creamy white conical berries. Ripe fruits have a pineapple flavor.
Alpine dreamSuitable for both open ground and potted culture. Very early, bears fruit throughout the warm season. The berries are aromatic, quite large, up to 3 cm in diameter.
ReginaEarly remontant strawberry, ready to bear fruit all summer without interruption. You can get up to 500 berries from one bush.
Yellow miracleRemontant variety of beardless strawberries. Berries yellow color, fragrant, weighing up to 3 g. The bushes are very compact, no more than 25 cm high.
Fragrant surpriseUnder this name, a mixture of beardless remontant varieties of alpine strawberries is sold. The pack contains both red and white berries, which are not inferior to each other in taste.

Photo gallery: alpine varieties of strawberries

Strawberry Yellow miracle - remontant variety without mustache strawberries The Alexandria strawberry has juicy, aromatic berries. The Regina strawberry bears fruit all summer long. The strawberry bush Baron Solemacher does not produce mustaches. The Snow White strawberry has an unusual color of berries for the crop - white strawberry Ruyan is distinguished by tall peduncles

Varieties of ampelous strawberries

Ampelous strawberries are distinguished by the presence of mustaches. In addition, each tendril is immediately ready to bear fruit. If you plant such strawberries in high hanging planter, then the hanging mustache, with berries and flowers, gives the impression of curly hair. Such varieties are very demanding on nutrition, especially in limited space pot - they need fertile soil and constant feeding.

Many varieties of ampelous strawberries have pink petals, which is very unusual and beautiful.

Table: varieties of ampelous remontant strawberries

NameDescription
Elizaveta, Elizaveta 2A remontant variety, the bush is very large, wide, and can grow up to 50 cm in open ground. The berries are large, up to 40 g, red. The variety is productive.
Temptation F1Strawberries of Italian selection, remontant, large-fruited, can be grown in open and closed ground. The berries are large, weighing up to 35 g, and tasty. During the season, the bush produces up to 20 flower stalks, from one plant at good conditions up to 1.5 kg of berries are collected.
Aroma of Summer F1Remontant variety with big amount mustaches that bloom even without rooting. The bush is up to 30 cm high. Up to 1.3 kg of berries can be collected from the plant per season.

Large-fruited strawberry

Garden large-fruited strawberries (strawberries) are also perfectly grown from seeds. Many varieties are brought from abroad, but it is important to take into account their winter hardiness.

Table: varieties of large-fruited strawberries for growing from seeds

NameDescription
ZaryaRemontant variety of beardless strawberries. Berries can grow up to 18 g, beautiful ovoid. The bush is up to 25 cm high, insensitive to changes in daylight hours.
GigantellaDutch variety with huge berries, up to 100 g. The color of the fruit is bright scarlet, the taste is sweet, with hints of pineapple. The bush is large, reaching a height of 50 cm. Not remontant.
HolidayAmerican variety, spreading bushes, berries up to 30 g, round-conical shape, red. Not repairable.
CinderellaA domestically bred variety, the bush is compact, vigorous, and productive. The first berries weigh up to 40 g, subsequent ones - up to 23 g. The variety is not remontant.
LyubashaLarge-fruited remontant strawberry. The bushes are powerful and spreading. The berries are conical in shape, weighing up to 22 g. Sweet, red in color. Doesn't give a mustache.
TristarRemontant large-fruited variety. The berries weigh up to 30 g, conical, dark red, very sweet. The bush is compact. Requires a lot of power.
YokeRemontant variety of large-fruited strawberries. Bush up to 20 cm high, compact. Berries up to 25 g, red, sweet, aromatic.
GenevaLarge-fruited remontant strawberry, forms few runners. The first berries can weigh up to 50 g.
MarshmallowNon-repairing high-yielding variety bred in Denmark. It is distinguished by tall and strong peduncles that do not fall to the ground under the weight of the berries. The average weight of the fruit is 20 g, but there are also larger ones. One adult bush can produce 1 kg of berries per season.
Lizonka F1Large-fruited, early ripening, high-yielding hybrid. The flowers are of an unusual bright pink color, the berries are red, weighing up to 30 g.
Scarlet Light F1Large-fruited remontant strawberry that can be grown in a pot. Plant height up to 35 cm. Red berries with nutmeg aroma.

Photo gallery: varieties of large-fruited strawberries grown from seeds

Zarya - remontant strawberry Gigantella produces berries of 100 g
The first Geneva strawberries gain weight of 50 g. One adult strawberry bush Zephyr can produce 1 kg of berries per season. Tristar strawberries require high-quality nutrition.

Growing strawberry seedlings from seeds at home requires attention, patience and some skills. It is important to choose the right seeds, prepare them, sow them in a certain period of time, and only as a result of competently carried out work will you get a strong and healthy seedlings.

How to choose the right strawberry seeds

It is best to buy seeds in a special store. Optimal choice– hybrid seed material. From it you can get strong, healthy plantings, which in their characteristics are much better than vegetatively propagated plants.

Nowadays, many gardeners prefer to plant seeds ordered from online stores and delivered by mail. However, in this case there is a risk of receiving low quality products. The bags are easily damaged during shipment, and the seeds may be expired. Yes, and get advice about the best varieties It wouldn't hurt to see a specialist salesperson. Good seller will tell you which variety is right for you and how to care for it.

When choosing strawberry seed material, you should not save; it is important to purchase the most large-fruited varieties. But it is important to know that such a plant requires more careful care, and there will be fewer seeds in the bag than for small-fruited varieties.

How to prepare strawberry seeds for planting

In order to increase seed germination garden strawberries, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory work:

  1. The seed material must be soaked in water (preferably melted water, since it is biologically active) for three days. There is no need to use a large amount of water; without access to air, the seeds will suffocate; just soak them in a damp cloth. We make sure that it does not dry out; to do this, we put it either in a container or in a bag. Long soaking in in this case necessary in order to destroy growth blockers (inhibitors).
  2. After this, the seeds are laid out on a plate on light paper, preferably filter paper. The plate is placed in a bag and placed in a warm, shaded place. The optimal temperature is 18-20 degrees. Higher and lower rates will reduce germination.
  3. When the seeds hatch, you need to be very careful, using tweezers, a match or a toothpick, spread them over moistened peat tablets (or into the ground). There is no need to sprinkle with soil: germination will decrease. Moisturize planting material from the spray bottle and cover plastic film or glass. Plantings must be ventilated daily and, if necessary, moistened.

Rules for processing strawberry seeds and soil

To germinate strawberries, it is important to properly prepare the soil and the planting material itself. To grow seedlings, you can purchase ready-made soil or independently prepare the version of the mixture that you like best. The best option– peat tablets. This will not require diving, which is very important, since young strawberry plants are very tender.

Before sowing seeds, they should be stratified. To do this, the seed material is kept for 5 days at an air temperature of less than +5 degrees - on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator or on the balcony. If possible, sprinkle it with snow. In addition to stratification, garden strawberry seeds must be soaked in a growth stimulant solution.

How to care for seeds so they germinate

Strawberry shoots appear unevenly over 10-30 days. At this time, the ambient temperature should be 15 degrees. Seedlings require regular watering upper layer the soil should not dry out. Watering must be done very carefully, without destroying the top layer of soil.

After sowing has been carried out, the containers should be placed in a well-lit place. It is recommended to cover the emerging shoots with plastic wrap. This creates a structure in which the plants are warm and humid. Drops of evaporated moisture can be removed from the film with a paper towel. The improvised greenhouse must be ventilated a couple of times a day.

It is not enough to plant seeds; it is important to ensure that they have enough light. If it is not enough, the plants should be supplemented with artificial light. Planting strawberries with seeds at home involves installing a fluorescent lamp and an outlet timer. They turn on the light bulb at 6 am and turn it off at 11 pm.

How to propagate strawberries by seeds

Propagating strawberries from seed material is not easy, but this method there are many benefits. Firstly, independently obtained seeds are stored for a long time, and secondly, plants obtained from them are less sick. Propagation by seeds is possible for any varieties, excluding hybrids.

So, how to grow strawberries this way?

  • Select berries from well-developed bushes.
  • Take seeds from their middle part or near the base.
  • Place the seeds under the seedlings on blotting paper and wait until they dry.
  • Rub the seeds in your palms.
  • Place the prepared planting material in a glass container.

Then you can sow strawberries. In this case, stratification and soaking are also carried out first, then the material is dried - and you can plant it in the garden.

When and how to plant seeds

We sow seeds for seedlings in February, or at least in early March. This is necessary in order to have time to plant young plants in the soil before the onset of winter. summer heat. Seedlings should grow at home before being planted in the ground for about 2 months. When planted in February, the plants will produce a harvest already in the first year of life.

How to properly plant seeds in soil for seedlings? Take advantage of Ganichkina’s advice. You can do this: put a special soil for berry crops in a glass, and pour calcined sand on top of it. Next, carefully place the seed material on the mixture, lightly sprinkling it with sand. Cover the cups with film and poke holes in it.

How many days does it take for a strawberry seed to sprout? As a rule, it takes about 2 weeks for seedlings to emerge. The first sprouts are very thin, slightly thicker than a hair. At proper watering after 2 months, sockets appear. After this, the strawberries can be planted in a permanent place, they will quickly grow.

Secrets of growing strawberries (video)

Propagating and sowing strawberries with seed material is not very easy, but if you know the technology of the process, planting can be done. Plants grown from seeds produce best harvest and get sick less.

Ecology of life. Not every summer resident would think of growing this crop from seeds. And there is an explanation for this - the process is quite labor-intensive. But what is the result! Seedlings obtained from seeds do not have diseases that are transmitted through the mustache from the mother plant to the children.

Not every summer resident will think of growing this crop from seeds. And there is an explanation for this - the process is quite labor-intensive. But what is the result! Seedlings obtained from seeds do not have diseases that are transmitted through the mustache from the mother plant to the children. And you can find more interesting varieties.

The optimal time for sowing seeds for seedlings is from the 20th of January to the end of February. In this case, it will have time to develop into a full-fledged plant by summer and will probably produce a harvest this year.

But to grow good seedlings, you must follow 10 important rules.

1. Choose only fresh seeds. In strawberries they lose their germination within two years. Therefore, when purchasing, take only those whose sales period expires in a year. That is, if you buy them now, the package should say: “Sale period until 2017.”

2. Disinfect the soil and containers. Strawberry sprouts are very thin, delicate, and at the beginning of their development they are easily affected by fungal diseases. Therefore, before sowing, the soil must be calcined in the oven or microwave.
By the way, it is not advisable to sow strawberries in ordinary garden or purchased land. It is best to prepare the soil yourself. Perfect option– a mixture of sand, garden soil and humus (3:1:1).
It is better to use transparent plastic containers as a container for seedlings - mold takes root less easily on them. Before planting, they should be thoroughly washed and disinfected - wiped strong solution potassium permanganate.

3. Keep the crops in the refrigerator. In order for strawberry seeds to germinate, they need stratification. It is carried out like this: the soil is poured into a container, leaving 2 cm short of the edge. Snow is densely packed on top (level with the edges), seeds are laid out on it and placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 3 days. The snow will gradually melt and pull the seeds into the soil - just to the right depth.
After the seeds have stood in the cold, the container is taken out and placed in a warm, bright place.

4. Cover with film. Strawberry seeds take a long time to germinate – up to 30 days. And all this time the soil should be constantly moist. Therefore, it is best to cover the containers (if they are without a lid) with cling film. Once a day, you need to remove it and wipe off droplets of moisture from the walls of the container.
The film is finally removed when the seedlings have 2-3 pairs of true leaves.
Usually the moisture that got into the soil from melted snow is enough until germination. But if the soil begins to dry out, it must be moistened with a spray bottle. Moreover, you must add any antifungal drug to the water (according to the instructions).

5. Provide good lighting. Strawberry seeds germinate in the light. But in winter the days are very short, and they lack sunlight. Therefore, crops must be provided additional lighting. The ideal option is a special phytolamp. And if you don’t have one, a fluorescent one will do.
Strawberry crops need to be illuminated 12 hours a day. The best time is from 8.00 to 20.00.

6. Avoid mold. If you find green, white or brown plaque on the surface of the soil or the walls of the pot, remove it immediately. To begin with, the foci of infection must be thoroughly wiped with paper or cotton wool soaked in potassium permanganate. And then spill the soil with any antifungal drug. Otherwise, mold will destroy all crops.

7. Water carefully. Strawberry shoots are very tender. If not frail. Therefore, you need to water it carefully. The most convenient way to do this is from a teaspoon. It is important not to overfill the soil, otherwise the seedlings may get blackleg.

8. Add soil. When you see strawberry shoots for the first time, you don’t immediately believe that this is it. The fact is that an adult plant does not have a long stem - it is shortened and the leaves grow as if from the ground itself. But the young strawberry has a stem. But when the leaves begin to gain weight, it lies on the ground and puts out additional roots.
However, it is better not to wait for this moment. The process can be speeded up by adding soil up to the cotyledons. Then the strawberries will quickly take root and develop better.

9. Pick up the plants. When 3–4 pairs of true leaves appear on young seedlings, they should be picked into separate cups.
It is better to take transparent cups - they make it easier to track soil moisture not only on the surface, but also in depth.
When picking seedlings, try not to cover the growing point.

10. Harden off before planting in the garden. Starting in April, strawberry seedlings should be taken out onto the balcony for a couple of hours. But provided that the air temperature is not lower than 0 degrees. And in May, when it becomes very warm, young plants can be left to outdoors even for the night.
After such hardening, the seedlings will take root well in open ground. published

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