Installation of door frame. Installing the door panel - step-by-step instructions for performing installation work. What to do if there is no groove

Extensions, or additional boards, are installed in the frame of the door if the width of the door frame (jamb, “jamb”) is less than the thickness of the wall in which the door is installed. Extensions play not only an aesthetic role, covering uneven and easily dirty slopes (if you are interested in other methods of finishing slopes –). They, together with the platbands, also strengthen the door and prevent it from warping. Do-it-yourself installation of extensions is possible both when installing a new door and on an existing door. We will look at the most common cases.

Additional boards can be made independently, from a flat board, edged or tongue-and-groove, for thick walls. For very thick or damp walls or backing boards, waterproof BS plywood (aircraft plywood) covered with a decorative self-adhesive film is very suitable: BS plywood does not delaminate or crack during fine processing of the edges and does not warp from moisture.

However, most often it turns out to be cheaper and easier to use ready-made additional MDF boards with decorative coating. The standard dimensions of factory-made extensions are in the range of 80 – 550 mm. For cases where it is necessary to make stacked extensions on thick walls, MDF extensions with a tongue-and-groove lock are produced.

According to standard technology, the extensions are installed in a special recess on the inside of the door frame - a quarter. However, when installing extensions on an already standing door, it is permissible to use attached extensions (adjacent to the door frame) and underlays (slipped under it).

Attached extensions are recommended to be used only in dry rooms with moderate temperatures and in cases where the door is made of very high quality or may lose value due to alteration (for example, if the door is an antique item or a museum exhibit).

If the door is slanted

If doorjamb is skewed and the deviation of the top bar from the horizontal is more than 5% of its length, and the door leaf is fitted to an oblique frame, installation of additional panels without altering the door is not recommended. The door frame itself does not warp; its distortion indicates structural defects, without correction of which the additions will not immediately look good, and subsequently they will warp and split.

Tools and accessories

To install door panels you will need some additional tool: a manual wood milling machine, a manual circular (parquet) saw and a clamp with a soft bed frame. The clamp is most needed so that, by pressing the saw against the stool with the disc up, you can get a convenient mini-circular saw. You can tighten the clamp softly by successively putting it on it and heating it over gas burner at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 m, heat-shrinkable tube in 3-4 layers.

The accessories you will need are 3-4 stools of the same height and not wobbly, 4-5 wooden planks approximately 30x30 or 40x40 mm, a dozen wedges from the same strip and several strips (you can waste) of ordinary packing plywood or plasterboard.

Door installation process

Knocking out the base plane

In preparation for installation of accessories doorway must be repulsed immediately reference plane, and mark her mark on the floor with a pencil. This is exactly done using the Pythagorean triangle method (a right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5; the “magic triangle”). Let's give an explanation of how to do this in the figure:

• We consider half the width of the doorway at the bottom to be equal to three basic lengths - 3l. If, for example, the width of the opening is 60 cm, then half of it is 30 cm, and the base length (l) is 10 cm.
• We make two marks from the corners of the opening with a cord 5l long. From their intersection at point B to point O (the middle of the opening) there should be 4l. In this case, the OB line will be exactly perpendicular to the plane of the opening, and all measurements can be taken horizontally from it; a plumb line will give the required vertical accuracy.

Note: If you have the opportunity to use a laser base surface projector, then the described procedure is not necessary. But it will not be possible to achieve the required accuracy with the help of a carpenter's or plumber's large square: the error will be greater than the size of the gap between the door leaf and the door frame.

What to do if the walls are sloped

When checking the verticality of the walls, it may turn out that they have a slope, positive or negative. If the slope does not exceed 5 mm along the height of the door, it can be eliminated on the surface under the casing with plaster. If it’s more, there’s nothing you can do; when sawing additional boards to size, you’ll also have to cut them into a wedge.

Foam blowing

After installing the additions, the cracks are filled with polyurethane foam before plastering. When the foam hardens, it expands and creates quite significant pressure. To prevent this from affecting the finished door frame, you must follow the following rules:

1. Do not remove the leveling wedges until the foam has completely hardened.
2. Also, do not remove the spacer bars; if they were not previously needed, install them with friction, but not tightly. Spacer strips should support the extensions, and not push them apart.
3. Blowing with foam uniform movement along the perimeter in 3-4 steps; each subsequent one - after the previous one has completely hardened.
4. There should be some space left from the outer edge of the foam to the edge of the slope. If you see the next layer of foam coming out, stop blowing. “Re-plastering” later is better than “blowing out” now.

Immediately with the box

The most technologically simple case is to install door trims yourself when installing a new door along with the door frame. This operation is performed in the following order:

• We place the door jamb on the stools with the inner (opposite to the hinges) side up.
• We align the corners to rectangularity, checking with the diagonals: they should be of equal length. To do this, we temporarily nail to the bottom with small nails a wooden strip with a length equal to the length of the top strip of the door.
• If the jamb does not have a quarter for additional finishing, we select a quarter with a milling machine. The depth of the quarter should be equal to the thickness of the additional board, and its width should be equal to the depth.

Example: additional board – 16 mm thick ( standard thickness MDF). You need to choose a quarter 16X16 mm.

• Along the perimeter of the door frame we attach to outside strips of plywood or drywall so that they protrude upward to the width of the additional board. A continuous frame is not needed; two scraps are enough for the top bar and 3-4 for the sides. We nail the plywood with nails; The drywall will have to be secured with self-tapping screws.
• We cut the extensions to size. Upper bar The extension should lie between the side ones, so we cut it to the size of the upper quarter, and the side ones to the size of the sides of the box.
• On both edges of the quarter we apply liquid nails or any assembly adhesive on wood.
• We insert the additional boards into place and wait for the glue to set.
• We are renting a temporary bottom bar, which kept the extensions from falling out of the plywood and we put door frame in place.
• Align the box with the base plane.
• We align the box width using wooden spacers; We check the verticality of the sidewalls with a plumb line.
• By knocking wedges under the sidewalls, we achieve horizontality of the upper door strip.
• We fill the cracks with foam and plaster them flush with the wall surface.
• We nail the baseboards, cut them to size and glue them liquid nails platbands - the door with extensions is ready.

Finished door and straight slopes

In this case, in order to facilitate the installation of the extensions, you need to prepare in advance a dozen or so thin, 3-4 mm thick, wedges from waste plywood. After that:

1. We knock the plaster off the slopes and check if there is a quarter on the door frame. If yes, then all that remains is to select additional boards according to thickness.
2. We cut the extensions to size, but not in the same way as described above: the top board will now fit the size of the box at the top; side ones - the size of the side quarters.
3. We apply liquid nails to the inner edge of the side panels and insert them into place. If you can reach a quarter, it is better to apply glue to it.
4. We adjust the height of the extensions using wedges from below, as described.
5. We insert one by one spacer strips, pre-cut to the width of the doorway, and support the extensions on the side of the slope with thin wedges so that they do not fall out. We check the verticality of the extensions with a plumb line; better - two at once, suspended in advance.
6. Apply glue not to the tops of the side panels, but to the inner edge of the top panel board (or a quarter), and lay the top panel board.
7. After the glue hardens, blow it with foam and decorate it as described.

If there is no quarter and with inclined walls

If the door frame is without a quarter, then there are two options:

• Reverse quarter. Using a milling machine, we remove a quarter of the extensions, 10-15 mm wide and half the thickness of the extensions. For “not very” sloping walls, this option is convenient because the quarter of the extension can be made oblique in width, and such extension will hold up no worse than a “normal” one.
• If the walls are brick, then you can knock out a groove in the slope under the door frame and install lining. This option is convenient for those who do rough work with a lot of effort better than light but fine work.

In both cases, the extensions are installed using auxiliary thin wedges, as already described.

Slopes with slope

If the slopes of the doorway are sloping (widening opening), then, regardless of new door or an existing one, add-ons need to be installed when standing door. The fact is that when installing direct extensions, you will end up with a very wide gap. After blowing with foam, there will be a space behind the casing where the plaster lies on the foam. Sooner or later, cracks and/or gaps will form there.

Therefore, before installing extensions in openings with inclined slopes, the inner edge of the extensions must be reduced along the length to a wedge, as marked in the figure with a red circle. After cutting to size, the extensions themselves will take the shape of a trapezoid. Otherwise, the installation of add-ons in this case has no special features.

Interior doors

As a rule, extensions are installed on the side opposite door hinges. But when installing interior door extensions, there may be a case when they will have to be installed on the hinge side. If so, then you need to first check whether the additions will not interfere with the opening of the door.

If at completely open door between its edge and the edge of the door frame there remains a gap equal to the thickness of the trim with a margin of 2-3 mm, there are no problems: we install the trim using any of the methods described above. If the edge of the door is adjacent to the edge of the frame, you need to install backing boards, having first knocked down the plaster from the slopes. This should not be neglected: just 1.5 mm of “pressing” the sash to the door will eat up 10 degrees of its opening angle, not to mention the fact that the door will soon be damaged.

Steel doors

Extras for steel doors It is possible to install only underlays. There is a nuance here: along the length of the extensions, along their inner DECORATIVE side, at a distance of 10-12 mm from the edge you need circular saw choose a groove with a depth of a third of the thickness of the extension and a width of the thickness of the corner from which the door frame is welded plus 1 mm. It is in this groove, when the edge of the steel door frame fits into it, that the frame will hold the extension with itself.

When installing door frames, it often becomes necessary to cover the remaining part of the slope with something. Most often, “extras” are used for these purposes, which can be purchased along with door leaves and trim. However, in most cases, such additional elements require adjustment, since the additional elements should be attached to the box as tightly as possible, and always strictly according to the size of the visible part of the slope.

Door frames

There are two options for door frames to which extensions are usually attached:

• with a groove for it,
• without groove.

In the first case, the additional element is inserted into the groove of the box with one (long) side, while its second side is unattached.

With the second option, the extension will need to be attached to the slope, without fixing it to the door frame.

Choice of extras

Extensions are strips made of laminated MDF. The color of these elements usually matches the color of the door frame and trim. But if you wish, you can always purchase additional colors of other colors, if this option is more suitable for the design of your room.

Do not forget that the extensions cover the slopes on three sides - on top and on two sides. In this case, it is desirable that the top extension be longer than the width of the door, and the vertical extensions rest against it at a right angle.

The varied width of the extensions allows you to choose them for slopes of almost any width. The main thing is that the additional element does not turn out to be narrower than necessary. If you cannot choose the exact size of the extension, you can trim it. To do this, it is recommended to contact furniture workshops, since you should additionally order there an edging tape sticker on one or two ends of the trim.

Installation of extensions with a groove

First, let's look at how to attach the extensions to the door if the door frame has a special groove:

1. Install and secure the door frame in the opening. You can even hang the door - this will not affect the installation of the extensions.
2. Trim the extensions to the required length.
3. Measure the distance from the outer edge of the wall (slope side) to the door frame in at least three places. If these distances do not coincide, then the extension will have to be cut in a furniture workshop. On the end of the extension to which the casing will be attached, it is also necessary to stick the edge tape there.
4. Insert the extensions into the grooves of the door frame: first the top horizontal, then the side vertical ones. The extensions must be located strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the plane of the door frame.
5. Check that they are horizontal and vertical.
6. Apply masking tape in 4-5 places along the length of the extension so that it can be used to fix it in the desired position.
7. Fill the space between the wall and the extension with polyurethane foam.
8. Wait until the foam hardens, cut off any excess.
9. Attach the trim.

Installation of extensions without a groove

After installing the door in the doorway, it is necessary to measure the remaining uncovered part of the wall (slopes). If the extensions have to be cut along the long side, then it is better to do this also in a furniture workshop. There you can also order the edging tape sticker on the two ends of the extensions (both on the side adjacent to the door frame and on the side of the platbands).

If the slopes are not plastered, then the extension should be secured as follows: take a wooden plank or small beam and attach it to the slopes in such a way that the extension can be secured on top of this plank, while maintaining its verticality (horizontal for the upper extension) and a right angle between it and the door frame.

With smooth plastered slopes, you can do without additional wooden plank, provided that there is no need to leave any space between the extension and the wall.

1. Attach the extension to the bar.
2. Fill the remaining space between the wall and the extension with polyurethane foam. To make the foam harden faster, spray it with water.
3. Trim off any excess hardened foam.
4. Secure the trim.

Benefits of using extras

As you can see, the technology of fixing the extensions allows you to avoid such a tedious procedure as plastering the slopes. A correctly selected additional element makes the slope smooth and beautiful, no matter how bad the slope looked before. However, if the space between the extension and the wall exceeds 3-4 centimeters, it is better to additionally secure the extension using small wooden blocks screwed to the wall.

In cases where you do not have the opportunity to use factory-made additions, you can make their man-made “analog” from laminate or MDF panels. This solution will make it possible to create “diverging” slopes (not located at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the door frame).

Video

Useful instructions for installing extensions:

Below you can see how the extensions are installed:

Installation of entrance and interior doors may not always go smoothly. The door frame and wall thickness in the room can vary significantly. In this case, special installation of accessories on the door will be required. What it is and how to choose and install these components correctly will be discussed in this article.

Peculiarities

Before you begin to describe the features of such a procedure as installing extensions, you need to familiarize yourself with what it is and what they are used for. An extension is a special plank made of wood or MDF, with which you can level the thickness of the door frame and the wall itself. If this is not done, then a gap will be visible between the frame and the wall, which over time can lead to loosening of the door leaf itself. This device is attached to the top door design.

The main feature of installing extensions on doors is that it is carried out on the opposite side to the door hinges. This is the only way to ensure that the door opens and closes freely. The second feature lies in the fact that even when installing these parts, it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 mm between the top of the door itself and its frame.

If the extensions interfere with the opening of the door, it is necessary to install special backings on the side of the hinges, next to the slopes. They must be removed before installation. upper layer plaster.

And another difficulty lies in choosing the extras themselves. It is best to purchase those products that are made of the same material as the door leaf itself and its frame.

Inattention to these features will simply lead to the fact that the extensions themselves will quickly wear out or break. The door structure will begin to settle and deform. After direct installation, it is imperative to carefully process the accessory itself. This can be done using protective coating, furniture varnish or paint of a suitable size.

The installation of the additions themselves, as well as their subsequent finishing, actually takes little time. But only on condition that the type of this product was chosen correctly.

It is also worth understanding that the use of such parts allows you not only to equalize the thickness of the frame and walls, but also to beautifully design the doorway itself.

Kinds

Today there are three main types of door panels:

• Standard or regular pack It is a regular strip, which can be finished with veneer, or maybe without it. This is the simplest version of this product, which, if necessary, can be easily and quickly made independently. Standard width of this type from 100 to 200 mm.
• Telescopic extension is an improved version of the previous version. The difference lies in the obvious similarity with lining. Each element of such an addition is assembled like a puzzle, thanks to the presence, on the one hand, of a special groove, and on the other, a small tenon. It is this design that allows you to beautifully decorate a door of any size. Width telescopic extension varies in the range from 90 to 150 mm.
• Combined addition got its name not only because it allows you to equalize the thickness of the door frame and the wall, but also plays the role of a platband. In appearance, it is a corner with ends for fastening. It itself is directly related to the door structure, namely the frame.

How to choose?

Despite the fact that there are not so many varieties of this product, ordinary people often have difficulty choosing the most suitable type.

In order not to be disappointed in the purchase and so that there are no difficulties during the installation process, you should take into account some nuances:

• It is necessary to determine the width of the extension itself. In order for this indicator to be accurate, measurements should be taken at several points on the top of the door itself, on the right and left sides.
• The length of the extension should be slightly longer than the length of the gap itself. If necessary, extra centimeters can be removed in a few seconds.
• If the installation of these parts is carried out independently, then everything necessary details, including the extras themselves, should be purchased with a small margin. This is necessary so that in the event of any malfunctions, you can immediately perform the installation correctly, rather than abandoning work and running back to the store.
• You should choose extras in the same color scheme, as the frame itself and the door leaf. It will be even better if they not only have the same color, but are also made of similar materials.
• When choosing extensions for interior doors and steel entrance panels, you should adhere to the same recommendations. The choice will be the same, but the installation will be slightly different.
• Accessories are a product that you should not skimp on. Not only will its quality depend on general form doorway, but also the duration of high-quality operation of the door itself.

How to calculate?

Before you go to the store and choose the appropriate accessories, you need to correctly calculate the required quantity. In order to avoid having to run for the missing part again during the installation process, or, conversely, throw away the leftovers, you should correctly calculate the required quantity.

First you need to decide that the height of the extensions comes from the height of the doors. If we talk about standard size door leaves, then their height is 2000 m, the height of the extension in this case will be similar. But more attention should be paid to the width of these products, which can range from 50-500 mm. Their height can also be different.

To avoid an incorrect purchase, the calculation required quantity additions and their sizes should be carried out in several stages:

• You need to make sure that there is a special groove in the frame of the future door leaf into which the extension will be installed. This is very important point, because it is worth considering that the component will be inserted into it, and therefore will decrease in size.
• Armed with a tape measure, you should place it in the place where it comes into contact with the box. It is necessary to note the resulting distance; it will indicate the edge of the wall. It is worth remembering that walls in any room are almost never level, so measurements should be taken several times, both from right to left and vice versa. But measure what you need only at the top.
• The basis of the size of the future addition will be the widest distance. If it is a little wider, it can easily be narrowed to the desired width.

If the measurements were taken at the moment when old box has not yet been dismantled, in the store when purchasing a box of extensions, you must subtract the width of the purchased door structure from the resulting value.

We can assume that the width of the partition is 200 mm, and the purchased box is 75 mm wide. It turns out that the additional board should have a width of 125 mm. It is better to purchase an extension with a width of 200 mm, and saw off anything that is superfluous during installation.

Installation

After all the measurements have been taken and the necessary components and tools have been purchased, you can begin installing the extensions yourself. At the same time, they need to be mounted slightly differently, depending on their type of installation.

Ordinary

Here, in turn, there is also a slight division. There are extensions with a groove, and there are without it. Each case has its own nuances.

First you need to install and secure it efficiently and reliably door block and only after that proceed directly to installation:

• If the box has an extension groove, it must be thoroughly cleaned of any internal dirt and debris, as they may affect the smooth installation of the product.
• The top bar is now inserted for the preliminary assessment and the necessary marks are made and then connected into a line. The board and side panels are cut in accordance with the markings.
• Now these components are inserted into the groove, aligned and carefully filled with polyurethane foam on top.
• If there are no grooves for extensions, they can be attached directly to the bars that are fixed to the wall. Elements of extensions are attached with self-tapping screws to the bars at the same distance. Then the rail is filled, but only with outside, and the accessories themselves are attached to it.

The description of such a procedure may be a little unclear, but once you start using these tips in practice, you can easily be convinced of the opposite.

Telescopic

This procedure does not have any significant differences in execution. The only thing is that additional gains will need to be increased gradually, and not immediately, as in the first option. And yet, this procedure will take more time, because each subsequent plank can be laid only after the polyurethane foam on the previous installation has completely dried.

The technology for performing the work will be as follows:

• Cleaning the groove from internal dirt.
• The first strip is inserted into the groove for fitting and the correct marking is carried out.
• The parts are cut to give them the required size.
• Now the first extension is inserted into the groove and filled with polyurethane foam.
• After the foam has dried, step four must be repeated until all the additions have been installed.

Some people, in order to save time, first connect all the additional strips together, and then mount the entire shield into the groove. This is not recommended unless you are a professional builder.

Otherwise, gaps will appear between the planks, which will have to be eliminated by redoing the entire work.

Combined

It is easiest to sheathe a door using such components. They do not need to be secured using mounting foam. All that is necessary is to drive the slats into the bosoms of the box. But this must be done starting from the top of the door structure, adjusting the tightness of the joints on the sidewalls of the joints.

By by and large, installation of such components in practice takes no more than half an hour if you do not have the necessary skills and no more than 15 minutes if you already have experience in performing such work.

The main thing is to prepare everything necessary materials and tools in advance, and carefully follow the instructions.

What to install instead of extras?

Some people, unfortunately, believe that installing an additional strip is much more troublesome than trying to disguise the gap in other ways. Today there are several analogues of this product:

• Putty or wallpaper. Sometimes it is with their help that they try to hide this very gap. About 10 years ago this would have been the only way, but today it is not acceptable. Firstly, sooner or later the gap will still become visible. And secondly, such a design does not look aesthetically pleasing enough and can visually spoil even the most expensive and stylish door.
• Ordinary platbands, which are often installed on plastic windows and doors. But this option is more suitable for design street windows. Such a replacement visually spoils the appearance, and also creates the impression of being on the street.

Why are extras needed and what are they? Before answering this question, we need to remember a little, and young people need to study history. As it was before? Each production plant building materials strictly complied with the current state standards for its products. The sizes of bricks, blocks, panel slabs, etc. were regulated. d. Construction organizations had standards for the thickness of plaster. This allowed woodworking enterprises to produce woodwork (windows and doors) with standard door frame sizes. After installing them in the openings, no additional adjustment with additional trims for the platbands was required.

Today everything is different. Absolute majority enterprises are not guided by state standards, and their own technical specifications. This has led to the fact that the same brick or block from different manufacturers can have various sizes. Now no one can confidently determine the thickness of the walls, make several standard sizes door and window boxes impossible. The solution was found simple and effective. The box is made with the minimum permissible width, which guarantees its physical strength, and the missing width, depending on the thickness of the walls, is gained by installing extensions.

Due to the fact that most modern door frames are made of MDF in order to reduce costs, the same material is also used during the manufacture of extensions. There are, however, door frames and trims made of natural wood, but they are rare and cost much more. The principles for installing wooden and MDF panels are no different.

Extensions are ordinary boards made of MDF, have a width from 100 mm to 200 mm, are produced by door manufacturers, and have the same color and texture as the doors. By structural device can be ordinary (simple) and adjustable. Simple extensions rest against an L-shaped cutout in the sides of the box; adjustable ones with the box have a tongue/groove connection. This allows you to accurately adjust the protrusion after taking the preliminary dimensions and preparing the extensions. In addition, the presence of the connection somewhat simplifies and speeds up the foaming process.

Photo	Size	Color	Price
	8x100x2070 mm	bleached oak	114.00 RUB/pcs.
	10x100x2070 mm	Italian walnut	167.00 RUB/pcs.
	12x2150x2150 mm	snow rosewood	188.00 RUB/pcs.
	12x80x2100 mm	pine	193.00 RUB/pcs.
	-	acacia	RUB 2,192.00/piece
	100x2150 mm	nut	RUB 468.00/piece

We will look at installation methods for both types of extensions, starting with simple ones.

Prices for extras

Installation of simple extensions

Simple additions can be connected with foam (the most quick way), nails and screws (the most long way). Choose yourself the method that seems most appropriate to you; experienced builders install extensions only on foam. The method of installing the extensions has almost no effect on the reliability of fastening the platbands, and the work is significantly simplified and accelerated.

Adjustable extensions are installed only on foam.

Measuring and preparing accessories

The technological task of the extensions is to serve as a platform for attaching platbands. In order for the platbands to lie correctly, the end of the extensions must lie in line with the plane of the wall. Measurements should be taken on an already installed door frame. Sizing is performed in the following ways.

Now you need to find out the height of the left and right elements and the length of the horizontal one. At the top of the box, the extensions are connected by the letter P, take this into account when taking dimensions.

You can cut additional boards hand saw, jigsaw, portable electric saw or on a stationary machine. The latter option is preferable - the work is much faster, its accuracy increases and the risks of chipping are minimized.

First, cut the pieces to length, then make width marks on each one at the ends. Draw a straight, even line and carefully cut off the excess part. It is better to draw a straight line using the same extensions; you don’t have to look for straight and long wooden slats. At the cut site, you need to remove a small chamfer, so the board will fit more tightly to the door frame.

Jigsaw prices

jigsaw

Video - Measuring extras

All elements are prepared, you can start installing them. Let's start with the most complex method and end with the simplest.

Installing extensions with self-tapping screws

Step 1. On the extensions, make a hole for the screws.

The thickness of the MDF boards is 10 millimeters; for melting you need to take a drill with a diameter of no more than 9 millimeters. The exact diameter should be coordinated with the diameter of the screw head. The diameter of the caps, in turn, changes with their length. The length of the screws is selected so that they fit into the door frame two or three turns, otherwise it may crack.

It is advisable that the drills be made to look like wood; they have thin needle-like protrusions at the end, which allow more accurate centering of the hole and prevent the drill from moving during drilling.

Important. Always leave at least 1.5 mm of board thickness on the side of the front part of the extension; there is nothing to worry about if the hole for the countersunk completely drills out the side of the extension with reverse side. The depth of the hole is regulated by the length of the screws; the main condition, as we have already mentioned, is that they should be screwed into the box no more than two or three turns. In total, it is enough to install 4 screws for the long vertical part, and make the same number of holes.

Step 2. Drill holes for screws. The diameter of the drill must correspond to the diameter of the screws. Drilling these holes is somewhat more difficult; you need a keen eye and dexterity.

How to drill them?

1. It is better to drill holes on the back side of the holes for the countersunk.
   Very important. You will need to drill not perpendicular to the plane of the board, but at a slight angle. This is done so that the self-tapping screw is directed towards the center of the door frame - the possible risks of cracking on the front part are reduced. If the end of the screw comes out from the back of the box, there is nothing to worry about.

   

2. Place the drill perpendicular to the drilling plane exactly opposite the hole for the countersunk.
3. Drill a few millimeters deep, turn off the drill. Place the drill under the right angle and continue drilling until its end appears in the hole for the countersunk.

   

   

We have already mentioned that this method is the most difficult, and we do not recommend using it. But, if someone has convinced you, then we will continue to talk about him. Prepare all the elements of the accessories using the described method.

Step 3. Insert the screws into the holes and twist them until the ends appear on the opposite side.

Step 4. Screw on the vertical extensions first, then the horizontal ones. If the self-tapping screw is tightly screwed, do not use much force, unscrew it a few turns, and then screw it in again.

Step 5. Check the position of the accessories if there are places with loose fit to the door frame - press them with any available materials.

Step 6. Prevent the boards from bending with polyurethane foam.

To do this, you can fix them in two ways: with construction paper tape or spacers. Construction tape has high tensile strength in the perpendicular direction and calmly holds the force of the foam. If the wall is smooth, use carpenter's tape and stick it to the paneling and the wall in three or four places. vertical elements and two or three on the horizontal.

If the tape does not stick to the wall, use spacers. They can be made from wooden slats. The length of the slats should be 1÷2 centimeters shorter than the width of the doors. Subsequently, the spacers are pressed with various pads.

Step 7 Fill the gap between the wall and the extensions with polyurethane foam.

Very important. It is rare to find responsible builders who, before foaming any structures, clean them of dust and wet the surfaces. And foam has very weak adhesion to dry surfaces; there is nothing to say about dust and dirt. Try to touch fresh foam with a wet finger - then you won’t be able to wash it off with anything.

For foaming, use any foam, the extensions are not a door frame, they do not carry any load, you can use the cheapest brands. The main thing is don’t leave any gaps. If the gap between the wall and the extension is narrow and deep, fit various extensions to the nozzle. For very thin cracks, we used cocktail tubes - we taped them to the existing outlet of the foam can and worked. This design, however, is disposable, but you don’t need more.

Step 8 Wait at least 24 hours for the foam to cool, sharp assembly knife cut off any excess that appears. Check the stability of the position of the extensions by tapping. Found out problem areas– add foam to them.

Prices for polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam

Video - Installing extensions with screws

That's it, the work on installing the extensions is finished, you can start working with

Installation of extensions on studs

In this section we will talk about another way to measure the dimensions of the extensions. They need to be inserted one by one into the seats of the door frame and using the sharp side of the rule to draw a wall line.

You must act carefully. If you inserted additional elements in the position in which they will be fixed, then the marked line must be symmetrically moved to the other side of the board and only cut along it. But you can insert the board rotated, then the line will immediately be in its place. Further, all circumcision operations are identical to those described above.

Step 1. Using a small-diameter drill (should correspond to the diameter of the finishing nails no more than one millimeter), drill holes at a distance of approximately 20 cm in the end of the extension adjacent to the door frame.

In the photo - the finishing nail next to the finisher

Important. Drill carefully and keep the drill strictly vertical. The depth of the holes should be 3–5 millimeters less than the length of the nails.

Step 2. Insert the nails into the drilled holes until they stop. Before this, you need to bite off the caps with pliers; the carnations are inserted with the sharp end outward.

Step 3. Carefully insert each accessory element one by one into its place in the door frame. Hammer through wooden spacer drive the sharp protruding ends of the nails into the door frame. Take your time; before fixing, firmly press the additional element against the side of the protruding seat of the box. If you are inattentive and miss a gap, you will have to remove the additional element and start all over again or seal the gap with sealant that matches the door. Both options are highly undesirable. In the first case, because you will have to pull out the “wrong” nail and drill a hole for it in another place. The fact is that incorrect fastening is a few tenths of a millimeter from the correct one. And in this case, the nail will never make a new hole for itself, but will always slide into the existing one. In the second case, any sealing of cracks with sealant will not go unnoticed and will indicate the low professionalism of the performer.

Step 4. Wedge the extensions on the back side, secure their position with tape or spacers to prevent them from bursting with foam.

Step 5. Clean the surfaces from dust and dirt, moisten them with an ordinary water spray (spray).

Step 6. Fill the gap with sealant over the entire surface. After the foam has cooled, carefully cut off the protruding part.

Video - Installing extensions on studs

We deliberately left the simplest method for last, this will give you the opportunity to compare all the described methods and make right choice. Marking and cutting out elements is no different from the first two.

And then everything is simple. Put the extensions in place, wedge them with inside Before the surfaces are completely pressed to the seats of the door frame, use tape or spacers to prevent them from bursting and foam after cleaning and wetting the surfaces. As you can see, there are no steps, drilling or hammering. Why do we recommend using this particular method?

1. The strength of such an installation is no different from complex methods.
2. You never run the risk of damaging the extensions while drilling holes or driving in nails for one simple reason - there are no holes or nails.
3. While the “big” specialist is drilling holes for screws or nails, you will completely install the extensions on two door frames yourself with the same quality of work as him.

Compare how much less technological operations, how much less are the risks of damage to the extensions and door frame and how many more are the benefits? Now make your decision.

Video - Installing foam extensions

Installation of adjustable extensions

Adjustable extensions have several advantages.

1. Connecting the elements into a tongue/groove allows the elements to be tightly pressed with visible planes. The appearance of cracks is completely eliminated; there is no need to wedge them.

   

2. The extensions can move up/down or out/in in the door frame. These few “free” millimeters allow you to precisely adjust their location and compensate possible mistakes during measuring or sawing.

   

   

Such extensions also have a drawback - they cannot be installed without a stationary circular. The fact is that only a stationary circular saw can be used to cut a tenon on additional elements required thickness and depth.

How are they installed?

Step 1. Take measurements, while taking into account the depth of the groove on the door frame. You can measure it and add it to the resulting width values, or you can take a piece of thin plywood or a ruler, insert it into the groove and measure the width of the extensions in this position. Take measurements in several places around the entire perimeter of the doorway; walls are often uneven.

Step 2. Mark the left and right extensions and transfer the dimensions to the blanks.

Important. In order to simplify the installation of all elements in the future, reduce their width by 2–3 millimeters. This reserve will make it possible to move the extensions in the grooves in the desired direction.

Step 3. Cut the blanks to length and width.

Step 4. Set the stop circular saw to the width of the tenon, raise the saw table in such a way as to ensure required height thorn. Place the board on the edge and carefully cut out the tenon.

Step 5. In the same way, prepare all the remaining elements of the additions.

Everything else is simple. Install them in place, align them at the joints and along the plane of the wall. To prevent expansion, stick construction tape to the wall and extensions, clean the surfaces from dirt and dust, wet them and foam them. The presence of a tongue/groove connection eliminates the need for wedging; the extensions already hold their size perfectly and are tightly pressed to the door frame.

Video - Installation of adjustable extensions

When installing accessories, do not create unnecessary problems and difficulties for yourself, use only the third most in a simple way– installation on foam. Why?

1. Firstly, the extensions are never affected by pulling forces; in any case, they will reliably hold the platbands.
2. Secondly, the nails serve only to securely press the extensions to the door frame, and do not keep them from being pulled out. Ordinary wedges made of foam plastic, paper and other available materials cope with the same task no worse.
3. Thirdly, any “drilling” in thin boards and in the door frame can cause cracks to appear on the front side. You will have to change the accessory or repair the box.

No one needs the first, second, and third. Why are there the first two installation methods? We think this is one of the effective methods undeserved increase in wages for unscrupulous builders. They importantly tell customers what kind of complex work you need to pay the appropriate amounts.

You should not nail the horizontal expansion to the vertical ones in the corners of the joints; it is already perfectly pressed with foam. If you are worried, press it in these places with any wedges. Extra nails in thin trims are an extra chance to see a hole on the front part, and this is a direct defect in the work.

Do not nail the planks together

You may find advice to connect all the elements with the letter P before installing the extensions in the door frame. We do not recommend doing this for two reasons.

1. Firstly, it does not reduce, but increases installation time.
2. Secondly, the connection is “flimsy”; during the movement and installation of the structure, the nails will still move a little and a gap will appear between the horizontal and vertical extensions. In any case, it will need to be eliminated on the spot.
3. Thirdly, the structure may become so distorted during transportation that the nails will compromise the integrity of the front side of the extensions. This is a very unpleasant situation; it will never be possible to repair the crack “to its original state.” Experienced master will always see the problem area.

And one last piece of advice. Sometimes there are times when you have to invite a specialist to help. You install several door panels yourself, and a few must be installed by a professional. Perhaps you want to finish this stage of building a bathhouse as soon as possible, or you don’t have enough time, your vacation is ending, but you want to finish finishing the bathhouse as soon as possible, the reasons may be different.

The master has come - look what tools he has. If they are dirty, it is immediately obvious that they are not being looked after - refuse the services of such a master. If among his tools you see sealants for cracks, shake the “craftsman’s” hand and send him back. Modern doors made of MDF must be installed so accurately that the presence of cracks only indicates carelessness, inexperience or irresponsibility of the master.

Video - Installing a door extension

Installation of interior doors can be carried out in a wall opening of any thickness. At the same time, frames for interior doors are offered with only a few standard depth ratings, which almost never exceed 100 mm. It is possible to make a slope on the remaining part of the opening, but this is long and difficult for a novice master. A much more technologically advanced and aesthetic solution would be to install an extension.

Door frame with extensions.

Tools and materials

Before starting work on installing interior doors, you need to stock up on everything you need.

List of tools:

• roulette;
• level;
• pencil;
• hacksaw;
• drill;
• chisel;
• hammer;
• miter box;
• square;
• glue gun;
• jigsaw or circular saw.

List of materials:

Accessories for interior doors.

• box set;
• hidden fastenings for the box or direct hangers;
• canvas;
• additional strips;
• platbands;
• awnings;
• masking tape;
• self-tapping screws

Before purchasing interior doors, you should carefully measure all the parameters of the opening and the adjacent wall. For normal operation of interior doors, they must be installed strictly vertically flush with one side of the wall. The wall itself is very often piled up in one direction or the other. As a result, the platband does not adhere to the wall at the top or bottom. The problem is solved by installing telescopic platbands.

The same applies to additional elements. When using a box with a groove for expansion, it will be easier to correct deviations in the geometry of the wall. You should not buy a frame without a groove, even when installing interior doors into a wall opening with good geometry. The joint of the extension with the frame through a groove allows you to adjust the elements to any opening width.

Special hidden fasteners for installing the box cannot be purchased at any store, but these elements allow you to firmly fix the side strips with a certain gap and set them level. In fact, most installers get by just fine without them, using traditional methods fixation.

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Box assembly

If you purchased a unit with a universal box, before installation it must be adjusted to the size of the canvas and assembled. The box is laid out on the floor. The canvas is placed between the side slats on the porch. The top bar is put in place. Along the perimeter of the canvas there are gaps of 2.5 mm to the side strips and 5 mm to the top. On the upper vestibule, marks are made in alignment with the side ones.

Installation of an extension on the front door.

From the lower end of the canvas, 10-15 mm is deposited on the side strips. For kitchen door and doors of rooms with boilers and geysers this size is increased to 40-50 mm for normal air flow through the gap between the canvas and the floor. The locations of the loops are marked 20 cm from the ends of the fabric.

According to the marks made, all 3 strips are shortened. To make a perpendicular cut, it is better to use a miter box. Otherwise, you need to mark lines along the square and try to hold the hacksaw vertically. The upper vestibule is cut with a hacksaw along the marks and trimmed with a chisel in the areas where the top and side planks meet.

For standard awnings, use a chisel to remove excess material from the canvas and one of the side strips. After which they are fixed with self-tapping screws into the prepared seats. When using butterfly canopies, there is no need to select a material. They are simply screwed on. To prevent cracking of the material, holes for self-tapping screws are pre-drilled.

It is better to drill holes and screw the side planks to the top one with the sheet in place and the gaps set. To connect the parts, a pair of wood screws 75 mm long are screwed into the ends of the side elements through the top one. You need to make cuts in the top lintel to align the extensions. It is better to cut the extensions according to the length of the box elements before installing it; the width is determined later.

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Fastening the box

Door design.

Installation begins with attaching the strip with canopies. It must be leveled in two planes and in alignment with the wall. With a blocked wall and installation with telescopic platbands the box is installed at the deepest point. You can even recess it a little more so that the taper is not noticeable. The remaining elements of the box are displayed with the canvas hung. If there is the correct rebate and gaps, then the planks are in their place.

To fix the box, you can choose from hidden fasteners, direct hangers, screws screwed through the material, or dowels. The latter are hidden behind a removable porch. If the porch and the box are made as a single piece, for hidden installation they are placed behind the awnings and the latch strike plate. This option for arranging hardware is suitable if the opening material is not prone to cracking or in the right places there are embedded parts.

In the installation position, the box is wedged, the gap around the perimeter is wetted and filled with polyurethane foam. The extrusion of the slats into the opening can be prevented by closing the door. To prevent the canvas from being pinched by the box, tile crosses, cardboard, matches, etc. are placed in the gap between them.

Fastening the extensions and platbands

Types of additions to interior doors.

The extensions are inserted into the landing grooves. On each of them, two extreme rough marks are marked in the plane of alignment with the wall. To accurately find the desired point, any guide is applied to the wall. The extensions are removed from the grooves. To obtain finishing marks, you need to set aside the distance from the outer end to the rough mark from the inner end. A line is drawn along the new finishing marks, along which the excess is cut off.

The resulting parts are installed in place. Wedges are placed between them and the ends of the opening, which eliminates the gap at the junction with the box. In this position, the extensions are secured with masking tape to the adjacent wall. You should try to position the extensions exactly perpendicular to the wall. You can use a square for this.

For final fixation, polyurethane foam is used. It should not fill the groove completely. The foam is applied pointwise in increments of 10-15 cm.

This will allow it to work like glue. As it expands, the foam will fill the free space and not warp the thin planks.