When traditional natural materials begin to dry up, as happened with the tree, there arises natural desire to minimize losses and put even production waste into use.
This is how analogues appeared wooden shields based on sawdust and shavings - chipboard and fiberboard. From the "Mason gun" fibreboard was produced, which later received the name MDF.
Types of material
According to the density of the facial layer fibreboards are differentiated by marking:
- LDF from 200 to 600 kg/m³;
- HDF - over 800 kg/m³.
According to the regulations of the standard:
- general purpose (MDF);
- moisture resistant (MDF.H);
- structural (MDF.LA).
Based on the type of front surface, the slabs are distinguished:
- embossed (milled);
- flat.
According to covering capabilities:
- rack (stacked) - width from 150 mm, length up to 3700 mm;
- tiled (composited) - within the range: 30x30 and 98x98 cm;
- sheet - 122x244 cm.
By finishing method:
- laminated - covered with polyvinyl chloride film (plain color, with a pattern, glossy, matte, imitating natural materials);
- veneered - with a front layer of valuable wood veneer;
- painted - coated with paints and enamels (by pouring method), creating an elastic layer, using the printing method.
In addition to synthetic films, films based on paper based and paper laminates.
Film coating not afraid of cleaning agents, resistant to mechanical stress, resistant to direct sun rays, but raises the cost of the material.
Advantages and disadvantages
The raw materials used for the production of MDF panels give them properties of natural wood, and by mechanical properties even superior.
MDF panels, like any material, have their pros and cons.
Obvious advantages of MDF:
- Strength.
- Moisture resistance.
- Frost resistance.
- Uniformity of structure.
- Large selection of decorative finishes.
- Imitation of expensive natural materials.
- Long-term preservation of product geometry.
- Easy to install.
- Availability of fragmentary repairs.
- Economical.
- Ease of transportation.
- Relatively long term operation.
- Sound insulation properties.
- Environmental Safety.
Flaws:
- Self-weight value.
- Not suitable for fastening with nails.
- Processing waste in the form of dust.
- Vulnerability to open fire.
- Swelling at high humidity.
- Susceptibility to deformation due to mechanical impact (impact, fall).
How to choose?
Accounting technical characteristics material and right choice tool is the key to success when working with this type of facing slab.
Selecting panels for interior decoration walls depends on many conditions:
- What material resources do you have?
- What problems can be solved by the covering capabilities of the material.
- What decorative load will the cladding bear as part of the design project?
- How important will the premises be? additional properties slabs: moisture resistance, fire resistance.
- Does the protective (decorative) coating of the slab matter for compliance with hygiene standards?
Optimal choice - wall panel (780 kg/m³), in type and assortment, meeting the tastes and capabilities of the owner.
Scope of application
In rooms with constant humidity - bathrooms, indoor swimming pools - the material exhibits increased fragility.
MDF panels found their application in various fields, in construction, for the manufacture of cabinet furniture, in interior design, the manufacture of arches, partitions and much more.
Application of MDF panels:
Do-it-yourself methods for attaching MDF wall panels
The most common technique alignment and simultaneous decoration of walls- cover them with MDF boards.
Wall slabs can be attach to the wall in two ways:
- By frame technology(to a metal profile or on a wooden sheathing);
- installation with glue (liquid nails).
On a wooden sheathing
The panels are fastened on a wooden sheathing made of slats with a cross-section of 20x40 mm. along horizontal joists using tongue-and-groove locks. Why hammer small nails into the corner of the lock groove. To ensure accuracy of work, a metal striker is used, which allows you to drive the nail right up to the head.
On a metal profile
In order to install the panel on a metal profile you will need the following consumables:
- SD profile (3m) for racks;
- UD profile (3mm), guide;
- straight suspension;
- additional strips and corners for joints;
- corrugation (self-extinguishing) for electrical wiring.
Walls under MDF do not require special preparation, except, if necessary, to additionally insulate them.
The position of the sheets (composite slabs, slats) on the wall is determined.
Implemented marking a wall using a level, self-tapping screws and nylon thread for the UD guide profiles. Sections of exposed wiring are removed into the corrugation.
A frame is constructed from a metal profile under MDF:
- The UD profile is attached with dowels to the ceiling and floor (wide side to the surface);
- suspensions for LED profiles are fixed on the walls with a “quick installation” fastening;
- SD profiles are attached to the ends of the UD profile of the floor and ceiling; fixed in suspensions in increments of 60 cm; the vertical position is verified with a plumb line;
- additional horizontal profiles are installed using crab joints on vertical posts in places of probable impacts: 60-70 cm from the floor, and between them.
Installation of MDF panels on the frame using clamps and small self-tapping screws, in the sequence: panel, groove at the end, fastening with self-tapping screws to the profile. Corner joints closed with additional parts from PVC.
First panel additionally secured with self-tapping screws in places that will be hidden after the work is completed: to the floor (under the baseboard) and the ceiling (under the decorative trim).
In this video clear example How to decorate a wall with MDF panels with your own hands.
Without frame
Mounting panels without a frame using “liquid nails” is even easier. The consistency of the glue should ensure elasticity of adhesion and filling in uneven walls. To successfully follow the technology, the instructions on the tube are enough.
Primer - required condition process. Glue is applied to the panel pointwise and in a checkerboard pattern.
It is necessary to glue in two stages: after the initial pressing to the wall, the panel is torn off (to air out the glue), and a second time (after about five minutes) it is necessary to glue the panel completely. The entire process is controlled at the construction level.
The panels must be cut evenly and carefully to ensure aesthetic articulation at the joints.
To prevent damage front surface when cutting a slab, it should be placed on the work table with the glossy side up.
For joining in wall corners use an additional element, commercially available - a special corner for external or internal corners.
Decorating walls with MDF panels is not a difficult task for someone who has experience working with tools and is not afraid to acquire new skills. The result will please you and your household.
The modern interior provides a beautiful and original finish, which especially emphasizes the style of the home. Therefore, recently MDF wall panels have become very popular among designers. Unlike wooden board They are inexpensive, come in various colors and are easy to install, giving the room a refined look.
Peculiarities
MDF is a unique building material produced in the form of panels made from medium-density wood-fiber raw materials. Since the boards are produced by dry pressing of wood shavings under high temperature and pressure with the addition of urea resin, they are extremely strong and durable in use.
Decorative finishing with such panels has many advantages.
- Easy installation. The material can be fastened in any direction: diagonally, across or along the surface of the wall. In addition, to install the panels you do not need to carefully prepare the working base. The condition of the walls does not in any way affect the quality of the cladding.
- Aesthetic appearance. Huge assortment color palette and textures allows you to use MDF for any style. In addition, during installation, a small space remains between the slabs and the base of the walls, which can be used to hide insulation and wiring.
- Good thermal insulation. The material is characterized by excellent heat resistance, so after attaching the MDF, the room acquires additional insulation.
- Easy care. To clean the panels from dust and dirt, just wipe them with a soft sponge soaked in warm water. If damage occurs during operation, there is no need to completely change the casing. To do this, the panel with defects is removed and a new one is attached in its place.
- Durability. This cladding will reliably last for decades.
Despite the presence of positive characteristics, MDF also has some disadvantages.
- Low moisture resistance. When exposed to moisture, the material is subject to deformation. Therefore, for finishing rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to use special boards with a protective layer.
- Instability to mechanical damage and loads. Decorative panels require careful installation and maintenance.
- High risk of fire. Electrical wiring that is installed under the trim must be placed in a fire-rated conduit.
- Formation of hollow walls. Since MDF is fixed to the frame, there is a “emptiness” between the skins, so when you need to fix furniture to the walls, you have to use long nails or dowels.
Before purchasing facing slabs, it is important to consider that they are produced different sizes depending on the model range each brand.
As a rule, the most common products on the market are thicknesses from 7 mm to 14 mm and sizes 2600×200 mm, 2600×153 mm, 2600×325 mm. Attached wall blocks usually on glue or lathing made from wooden beams and metal profiles. At the same time, installation of slabs on wooden frame it is much easier to do, but before installation, the wood should be coated with antiseptic solutions that protect it from the formation of mold and mildew.
Today, MDF boards have found wide application in various fields. They line the walls, door leaves, window sills, ceilings, and also screens for heating and ventilation systems and arches are made from the material. This finish looks chic in a modern interior, as the panels imitate not only expensive types of wood, but also natural stone.
Calculation of material quantity
The installation of MDF, like any other material, must begin with a preliminary calculation of the number of panels. To do this, first of all, determine the area of the room: all the necessary measurements are made, and the perimeter is multiplied by the height. It is also important to consider the presence of doors and windows in the room. Their quadrature is calculated in a similar way, multiplying the height by the width, the resulting result is subtracted from the total area of the room.
Then, knowing all the numbers, you can go shopping for wall panels. Since the products are sold in different sizes, you will have to additionally calculate how much square meters in each slab. Usually manufacturers write this on the packs. If, for example, a panel is purchased with a width of 900 mm and a length of 2600 mm, then it is enough to multiply 2600 mm by 900 mm. As a result, it turns out that there are 2.34 m2 in one slab. Then the area of the room that is planned to be covered must simply be divided by 2.34 m2, and you will get required quantity panels.
Preparing tools
An important point Before starting MDF sheathing, the preparation of the tools is also considered. Since the installation of wall panels is not particularly difficult, it is quite possible to do it yourself, without the help of specialists.
To get the job done quickly and efficiently, you need to have a basic set of tools on hand.
- Roulette. It is best to use a 5-meter tape measure.
- Level. It can either be purchased in a store or made from jute, with a nut attached to the end.
- Drill with a full set of attachments. It will perfectly replace a screwdriver and simplify the task of fastening the plates.
- Metal square. For installation, the one that has different legs and is usually used by mechanics is suitable. Using a square, panels for cutting slopes will be measured.
- Hacksaw or jigsaw. It is recommended to stock up on both at the same time. In this case, a hacksaw should be selected with small teeth that have a transverse and longitudinal cut.
- Bulgarian. It is needed for cutting metal profiles if the frame is planned to be assembled from metal.
In addition to the above, you will also need the usual tools that everyone has in the house: a screwdriver, a knife, a hammer, drills and a marker.
Installation methods
Before sheathing MDF walls, it is necessary to determine how to attach them. Install decorative panels You can use glue or on the sheathing. Each of these methods is characterized by its own installation technology.
Before choosing, you should evaluate the condition of the surface, taking into account some nuances.
- The boards are made from wood fibers, so the material must be protected from contact with substrates damaged by mold. Installation on walls in rooms with high humidity is not recommended. In addition, the panels must be mounted on a flat base.
- If the walls are well cleaned of old decoration, dry, then MDF can be installed on them with glue or liquid nails without assembling the sheathing. This will simplify fastening, but will eliminate the possibility of replacing individual plates if they are mechanically damaged.
The installation of wall blocks on a frame is as follows: guides are attached to the surface, serving as the basis for installation, then MDF is fixed to a metal profile or block.
This technique has many advantages.
- The lathing hides defects in the base, so the walls do not need to be leveled and leveled. This, in turn, significantly saves time and money.
- The resulting “void” between the skin will serve as an ideal place for laying important communication systems and laying a thermal insulation layer. In addition, additional sound insulation is created, which is especially important for apartments in which the partitions between the walls have poor sound absorption.
- Opportunity quick repair finishing if individual panels have been damaged.
As for the disadvantages of such cladding, it significantly reduces the area of the room, and if you need to hang pieces of furniture or decorative elements, then it is worth considering that the structure will not withstand such loads.
Unlike the previous method, planting with glue does not have any significant disadvantages. MDF boards are attached directly to the wall, with a connecting element in in this case serves as glue. To additionally secure the panels together, clamps are also used. Thanks to this finishing option, the area of the room is not reduced, installation is carried out quickly, without damaging the material with screws or nails. But if the surface of the cladding is damaged during operation, then it will be necessary to restore not just one fragment of the finish, but the entire wall.
When deciding on the choice of one method or another, it is worth taking into account not only the features of the room, but also calculating the costs of covering. For example, in some cases it is much more economical to putty the walls and not build a frame. For large rooms, of course, it is best to install lathing, since perfectly leveling their walls will be problematic.
Execution of work
MDF panels thanks to their operational characteristics and aesthetic appearance are widely used in finishing works. Wall panels can not only be used to decorate the ceilings of a corridor or hallway, but also to sheathe a doorway or window slopes in an original way. Furniture fittings and wall corners can also be easily made from the material at home. Since the product is easy to install, it is quite possible to do all the work yourself. Before you implement MDF fastening, you should prepare the surface for finishing by cleaning it from the old coating and eliminating all defects.
Regardless of whether the cladding is planned on concrete, wood or brick, the base must be primed; this will protect the finish from the appearance of mold and mildew in the future.
For additional thermal insulation of window slopes, walls and doorways, it is recommended to lay insulating material; it will not only serve as a good insulator, but will also cope with the task of vapor and waterproofing.
To install panels on slopes, they can be fastened along or across, it all depends on the size of the slope. This finish, made from a combination of light and dark pieces of slabs, looks original. Installation of panels on walls and ceilings is carried out either using glue or using a pre-assembled frame. To do this, first attach the starting profile, and then the guides, along the length of which you need to correctly join the decorative parts. To make a beautiful corner, before installation you should trim the material, rounding its edges.
It is recommended to saw or cut panels using special woodworking tools. The best option A jigsaw is considered suitable for this, but if you don’t have one at hand, a fine-toothed saw will do. Having decided on the direction of the MDF sheathing, the panels are measured and cut to the required length. In this case, it is necessary to cut off the tenon along the entire length of the first slab; if this is not done, then difficulties will arise when installing the corners.
Lathing
When choosing a method for attaching MDF to the sheathing, you will first have to make a durable frame from metal profiles or wooden beams. It is worth paying attention to the fact that a wooden structure requires preliminary impregnation with antiseptic solutions that will protect it from rot and mold. If you plan to lay thermal insulation, then the thickness of the beams is chosen according to the thickness of the insulating material. For plating brick walls and rooms with high humidity, wooden frames are not recommended.
To prevent wooden beams from becoming deformed during installation, you should choose well-dried wood. The structure is fixed perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels, leaving a small margin of 5 cm from the floor and 3 cm from the ceiling. First of all, fix the vertical elements, which are placed along the edges of the recesses, in the corners and next to the openings. The planks should be spaced 700 mm apart from each other. To fasten the structure, self-tapping screws or nails with a diameter of 4 to 6 mm are usually used.
To assemble a metal structure, UD racks and horizontal CD profiles are used. The sheathing pitch is similarly 600-700 mm.
The CD profile is inserted into the rack and everything is secured to the wall with self-tapping screws. Metal profiles can be cut with a special circular saw. If the ceiling is finished with panels, then the frame must be assembled only from horizontal elements, using additional fasteners.
Paneling
After the frame structure is ready, the paneling begins. MDF slabs are fixed to each other using a tongue and groove lock, consisting of a recess and a ridge. The parts are attached to the wooden sheathing with small nails, and they are driven in obliquely with a hammer. To install the material on the metal profile, clamps are used, they are placed in the groove of the slab and secured with self-tapping screws.
At vertical installation The MDF begins to be fixed from the corner, smoothly redirecting to the left. The first slab is attached to the beam with nails, and from the groove side the fixation is carried out with clamps. Then the ridge of the next slab is placed in the groove of the first. The last panel should be cut to length, leaving a small margin of 5 mm, and its ridge should be cut in half. It must be inserted into the groove of the previous panel and the free edge secured.
Pieces of wall slabs are used to cover slopes. To beautifully close the skin, use special corners. They are placed on liquid nails or glue, decorating the edges near doors and windows. In addition, MDF is excellent for finishing ceiling surface, in this case, the panels are installed in a direction perpendicular to the base of the walls.
MDF panels are now widely used as a material for interior wall decoration. They have become very popular due to their environmental friendliness, attractive appearance and a number of positive characteristics. Using MDF panels - simple, relatively inexpensive and quick way room decoration. Most often the material is used to repair storerooms, hallways or loggias.
What are MDF panels
This finishing material is made from medium-density fiberboard as a result of hot pressing of wood fibers. As a result of pressure and high temperature, lignin, from which wood is composed, becomes elastic, its fibers adhere to each other. The production of the material does not use toxic components, such as phenol or resins, so MDF panels are absolutely safe and environmentally friendly.
The external coating of facing slabs is of three types:
- Laminated film that replicates the surface of marble, wood or other natural materials.
- Thin veneer from valuable species tree.
- Relief varnish coating.
When purchasing MDF panels, you should pay attention to their thickness, moisture resistance and strength.
Advantages and disadvantages
Of course, like any building and finishing material, MDF panels have their strengths and weaknesses.
Obvious advantages include:
- Simplicity and ease of installation. They can be mounted on a frame, which is easy to make, horizontally or vertically, without the need to first apply a layer of plaster.
- Good sound insulation.
- Attractive appearance, wide choice of colors.
- Easy to care for, to keep the walls in neat condition, just wipe them periodically with a damp cloth.
- Affordable price.
Among the disadvantages are:
- The walls under the panels remain hollow after fastening; if something needs to be hung, it is important to use special dowels.
- Instability to external mechanical influences and dampness.
- The material is highly flammable and burns.
- MDF panels do not form a smooth, continuous surface; depressions are always noticeable at the joints.
- The material is more suitable for interior decoration of corridors, storage rooms, loggias.
Preparatory work
Since MDF panels can be attached to uneven surfaces, special preparation of the walls will not be required, however, due to their instability to moisture, it is better to carry out work in a dry room in sunny weather.
The following stages can be distinguished from the preparatory work:
- Coating the wall surface with a primer, a special solution for protecting wood or an antiseptic.
- Lathing arrangement for fastening panels (if the adhesive installation method is not used). The frame can be attached directly to the walls, but this will not be the most good option, since it will follow all the irregularities of the wall. It is better to make an independent frame, the elements of which will be located on top of the insulation. The frame comes in two types: metal and wood.
- Metal carcass It is made from a guide profile, with the help of which plasterboard is installed, measuring approximately 50x50 mm. The profiles are attached vertically to the floor using dowels at a distance of approximately 60 cm; it is important to check before installation correct location elements using a building level. The bottom bar should be placed at a distance of 3-5 cm from the floor, and the top bar at a distance of 2-3 cm from the ceiling. Between vertical elements attach vertical ones. All that remains is to securely fasten all the elements using corners, which can be easily made from the profile itself. You can use a cutter, a tool that helps connect elements together.
- Wooden frame made from elements of the same size, approximately 50x50. The installation technology is the same as in the previous version, the difference is that the wooden blocks are fastened together using self-tapping screws or furniture corners.
- Insulation of walls. The cells of the frame can be filled with a layer of insulation; how to do this correctly will be described below.
Required Tools
In addition to the standard set of tools that can be found in every home, for installation of MDF panels you need to prepare:
- A tape measure and a pencil, they will be needed to mark the places where the sheathing elements are attached and to indicate the required length of materials.
- A plumb line that can be made from ordinary fishing line and a nut.
- Construction level or metal corner, with the help of which the correct arrangement of elements is checked.
- Hammer, nails, construction stapler.
- Dowels and screws.
- Screwdriver and drill.
- Cutter.
- Use a hand saw or jigsaw to cut the MDF panels to the desired length.
How to attach MDF panels to the wall
The material is attached to the wall using frame or adhesive methods. Both of these options are equivalent. If you need to hide the unevenness of the walls, it is better to choose frame method, if you need to finish a flat surface, adhesive is quite suitable.
The preparatory work for the construction of metal or wooden sheathing has already been done; you can start installing the MDF panels themselves. It doesn’t matter which corner of the room you start work from.
- The first MDF panel is installed in the corner so that its tenon is located 2-3 mm from the adjacent wall.
- The second one is installed on the adjacent wall in the same way, so that its tenon is also directed into the corner.
- Holding the panels with your hands, you need to install a universal corner between them.
- We secure them using special clamps - clamps. They are fixed to the edge of the panel and then nailed to a metal or wooden frame. The clamps are made in such a way that they do not interfere with inserting the next element into the groove.
- The upper and lower parts are screwed on with self-tapping screws at the top and bottom. After completion of the work, their heads will not be visible, since they will be covered with ceiling and floor plinths.
- The next panel is inserted with a tenon into the groove previously installed in the manner described above. Direct joints should be covered with special slats.
- When all work on installing the panels is completed, the baseboards and platband are fixed using ordinary construction glue.
Wall insulation
Experts advise insulating walls, since under the influence of moisture the structure of the material can change, which will not have a very good effect on the appearance of the walls. The sheathing cells are filled with insulation before the direct installation of the MDF panels.
Most often, two materials are used for this purpose:
It retains heat well and prevents noise penetration. The foam sheets are attached directly to the brackets for the sheathing profiles, and the gaps between the sheets are closed with regular polyurethane foam. This insulation is very convenient to work with, it is easy to cut, the material is suitable for any density.
Mineral wool. This is a soft insulation that is placed in the spaces between the frame elements, slightly tucked under them. If you decide to use this insulation, you should definitely take care of treating the walls with an antifungal agent.
Installing panels with glue
It is important to take into account the fact that MDF panels can only be glued to smooth walls. This method is simpler compared to the frame method, as it significantly saves time.
Not every glue is suitable for this type of work; it must:
- Be plastic;
- Smooth out minor unevenness on the wall;
- Have a thick texture;
- Apply in a thin layer.
Work technology:
- Before you start gluing MDF panels, the walls need to be cleaned of dirt and primer or any antibacterial compound applied. Be sure to wait until the solution dries.
- You need to start the installation from the corner of the room so that minor errors are less noticeable.
- Apply glue to the inner surface of the panel pointwise, that is, in a “checkerboard pattern”, wait a little to allow the glue to absorb.
- Place the canvas against the wall, press lightly and smooth it from the center to the edges.
- Glue the remaining panels in the same way. They can be secured end-to-end or overlapping, depending on the manufacturer's recommendations.
To save time, glue can be applied to several canvases at once; while it dries, begin attaching the first one. When working with glue you need to be very careful, since the result of the work depends on it.
The process of installing MDF panels is very simple if you follow the recommendations of specialists and pay attention to some nuances:
- When installing the first MDF panel, be sure to use a plumb line and a building level.
- The material does not bend, so closer to the corners of the walls, you just need to trim the panels, and then cover this place with special corners.
- Attach the lower element of the sheathing closer to the floor in order to securely fix the baseboards later.
Decorating walls with natural materials, for example, panels from solid wood adds nobility and style to the interior, but it is expensive and impractical. An excellent solution in this case is to choose a material that combines decorative look natural wood and the durability and strength of artificial binders. MDF panels have gained well-deserved popularity among builders; they are used for finishing living rooms, as well as commercial and public premises. They are easy to attach to the wall and look neat and stylish.
Advantages and disadvantages of MDF panels for wall decoration
MDF is made from wood fibers that have been processed under high pressure and temperature and pressed into a board.
Binders and useful additives give MDF special properties and advantages that are indispensable for wall cladding:
Disadvantages of the material:
- low elasticity;
- under conditions of high humidity, dampness penetrates through the untreated ends of the slab, which deforms and destroys the MDF structure;
- fire hazard.
How to properly attach MDF to the wall
Several types of MDF are available, which are suitable for use in various operating conditions:
- solidly pressed products have a smooth front surface, medium density; furniture is made from these sheets;
- laminated panels are covered with a protective film on top; they are characterized by increased strength and decorative effects;
- moisture-resistant boards are more expensive than regular boards, they are denser and can be used in wet areas: bathrooms and kitchens.
Having assessed the characteristics of each type, you can make optimal choice to create a durable finishing coating. Before starting repairs, you need to make a drawing of the room with sheet markings and calculate the consumption of materials and fasteners.
To make your work more convenient, make a drawing of the room and calculate the amount of consumables For correct calculation it is necessary to subtract the area of windows and doorways. To the result obtained, add 10% for possible trimmings.
There are several ways to attach MDF panels to the wall, each of them has its own technological features, after studying which you can choose the most suitable option.
Mounting on a wooden sheathing
This method has many advantages:
- the frame hides defects and differences in the height of the base and does not require careful preparation of the walls;
- space is created for laying communications and wiring;
- Insulation can be placed under the panels;
- It simplifies the replacement of a separate MDF board.
There are also disadvantages:
- the space of the room is reduced, which is especially important for small rooms;
- fastening hanging elements decor and furniture will require long anchors and mortgages.
The surface under the finishing in damp rooms can accumulate condensation and become a favorable environment for the development of mold and mildew, which is harmful to health. To solve this problem, it is necessary to treat the wall surface with a fungicidal antifungal impregnation, and to reduce the possibility of fire - with a fire retardant. A block measuring 30x30 mm is suitable for lathing.
MDF panels - a modern and environmentally friendly material In addition to the MDF panels themselves, you will need the following list of tools and materials for work:
- level, plumb line, ruler and pencil;
- stepladder, wooden blocks for sheathing;
- drill, hammer drill, screwdriver;
- dowels or self-tapping screws, you can use clamps, nails with a reduced head;
- fire retardant and fungicidal impregnation;
- liquid nails for fixing corner trim elements;
- brush, spatula, bars, large-toothed hacksaw or saw.
Preparatory work:
The frame is ready, now you can mount the MDF panels:
For thin slabs, you can securely attach them to the sheathing strips using glue. Liquid nails are perfect for this purpose.
On a metal profile
This method uses a special aluminum or galvanized metal profile. This frame is more expensive, but does not have the disadvantages of wood and will last much longer. This method is optimal for finishing rooms with high humidity.
Should be prepared following materials and tools:
- guides and supporting profile strips, hangers, small self-tapping screws “seeds” for connecting profiles to each other;
- screwdriver and screws, hammer drill and dowels;
- ruler and level, marker;
- stairs, baseboards and corners;
- chisel attachment for a hammer drill;
- clamps, one box of 100 pieces is enough;
- plaster and putty.
Preparing the base:
- This method does not require leveling or carefully preparing the wall; it is enough to remove the old tiles or wallpaper and apply a fire-retardant compound so that in conditions increased dampness Mold and mildew have not grown under the finishing.
- Mark the wall, place the planks in increments of 45–50 cm. Mark the lines on the floor, walls and ceiling. Before installation, you can stick foil foam foil for thermal insulation.
A properly installed sheathing will allow it to last for a long time, and MDF panels will not warp over time. - Attach straight hangers, which are subsequently bent to strengthen the frame structure and align the finishing plane at the required distance from the main wall.
Mount hangers on the wall - Fix the guide strips to the ceiling, floor and side walls with dowels. Insert the supporting main planks into the hangers and guides, and fasten the structure with small self-tapping screws, called “seeds” by the craftsmen. It is convenient to use a screwdriver with a magnetic attachment for this work. Fastening is carried out in increments of 15–25 cm.
Fix the guides on the floor, ceiling, walls - Check the level for the correct position of the slats and lay the necessary communications. Place the wiring into a corrugated pipe and fill the gaps with insulation, bending the protruding edges of the hangers outward.
Fill the gaps between the profiles with insulation
Stages of installation of MDF panels:
Without frame
If the base is smooth and has no defects, then fastening can be done without installing the frame.
This method has its advantages:
- operating time is significantly reduced;
- Precious centimeters of the room do not decrease; the wall protrudes only 10 mm.
For fastening you will need:
- adhesive composition, liquid nails, mounting gun;
- hacksaw with small tooth, brush;
- stepladder for working at height;
- universal corners made of fiberboard, baseboard, insulation;
- fire-bioprotective impregnation, primer.
Stages of preparatory work:
After the walls have completely dried, we proceed to the installation of MDF boards:
Video: installation of MDF panels on the wall
Proper installation of MDF panels is not at all difficult, they do not require special care, and the walls look like finished natural wood exotic rocks or leather, granite. Practical and inexpensive cladding will give the interior gloss and a neat, fresh look.
Wall decoration with MDF panels has recently become increasingly popular, due to the fact that with their help you can quickly tidy up surfaces quite large area. In addition, installation of the panels will not take much time, since you will not have to wait for numerous layers to dry, as, for example, in the case of plastering works. It also helps that the surface leveled by them does not require any additional finishing, as is the case with drywall. Another advantage of this material can be called quite affordable price on him.
Do-it-yourself MDF wall panels, which can be carried out even if there is absolutely no experience in this work, are installed quite simply. The main thing is to understand the principle of carrying out such cladding, prepare the surfaces and pay attention to Special attention accurate calculations and markings.
What are MDF panels?
The abbreviation “MDF” stands for finely dispersed fraction, from which this finishing material is produced, including wall panels. The production of MDF involves the process of dry pressing a finely dispersed mass of sawdust and shavings, using high temperatures and pressure. To bind the mass, urea resins modified with melamine are added to it, which prevents the evaporation of formaldehyde by chemically binding it (formaldehyde emission class - E1). MDF panels are considered environmentally friendly pure material, therefore it is not prohibited to use them for interior decoration. The principle of installing panels is similar to installing natural wood, but they have more low price than the last one.
Installation wall MDF panels can be installed in two ways - by attaching them to a frame sheathing or by fixing them to the wall surface using an adhesive composition such as “liquid nails”. This glue is used not only for installing wood products and its products, but also for sealing cracks, since it contains sawdust filler. If filling of defects will be carried out on the remaining visible areas of the wall, then the adhesive mass should be selected according to color so that the repaired areas do not stand out against the general background.
MDF panels are produced in a wide variety of shades and can have a textured micro-relief pattern that imitates various breeds wood or stone, so they can be matched to any interior design. In addition, the panels are easily combined with each other and can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on what effect the owners want to achieve.
For example, if the ceiling is too high and makes the room uncomfortable, you can install the panels horizontally, using different shades alternately. If you need to visually raise the wall, then the panels are installed vertically.
The panels are produced in different lengths and widths, so before choosing the color and shape of the material, you need to think about what effect you will need to achieve.
Tools for finishing work
To make your work comfortable, you need to prepare tools in advance that will speed up the installation of the finishing material, making it as simple as possible. So, the tools you will need are:
- Electric jigsaw or vertical saw.
- Construction level and plumb line.
- Tape measure, metal ruler and construction corner, simple pencil or marker.
- An electric drill, a screwdriver, or even a regular screwdriver.
- Construction stapler.
- Hammer.
- Pliers.
Basic methods of installing MDF panels and the materials required for this
To install MDF, you will need certain auxiliary materials. Moreover, the purchase of some of them will depend on the choice of mounting method.
Installation of panels on walls can be done in two ways:
- Glue.
- Frame.
Both methods can be used to install panels both in a private house and in an apartment, but for adhesive installation the basic condition must be met - the wall must be perfectly flat. Therefore, if the panels will stick to the surface, then it must first be leveled with plasterboard or the plaster-putty method.
To install the panels with glue, you will need very few auxiliary materials - this is a composition of “liquid nails” and fittings.
If you need to level uneven wall using cladding with MDF panels, while hiding communications behind it or installing insulation and sound insulation, you will first have to install a frame that will bring the entire future surface into one plane.
The frame for installing panels can be made of wooden beam or metal profile. It must be said that it is easier to attach MDF to wooden material, since nails or even staples are suitable for this. When installing panels on a metal profile, metal screws will be needed, and in this case it will no longer be possible to do without them.
When using a frame, a gap will inevitably form between the main wall and the cladding, in which there will be no ventilation air circulation - such conditions are very “attractive” for mold and mildew. Therefore, before installing the sheathing, it is necessary to inspect the wall. If it is wet, it will first need to be dried and then treated with special antiseptic compounds. It is still better not to install such cladding on external thin walls at all, as it will quickly become unusable, and in addition, an unfavorable microclimate will be created in the room over time, which can cause allergic reactions in residents.
To install the facing panels on the frame, you will need the following materials:
- A wooden beam treated with antiseptic compounds, with a section of 15×30, 20×30, 20×40 or 20×50 mm, or a galvanized metal profile - the same as that used when installing drywall.
- The insulation material is foamed polyethylene of selected thickness.
- Metal straight hangers that will help align the guides exactly in one plane.
- Clamps for fastening panels to the frame.
- Small nails or staples for a stapler.
- Dowels for attaching brackets (hangers) or direct guides to the wall.
- Self-tapping screws for wood.
- Fitting profile elements - corner and plinth. It should be noted that the design of the corner for MDF panels is convenient in that it can be used to decorate both the external and internal joints of planes, even at different angles.
Preparing the wall surface for cladding with MDF panels
Surface preparation can only be carried out if it is dry. If you find signs of high humidity on it, you must first determine the cause of this phenomenon and then try to eliminate it. There is no way to cover a damp wall with any panels.
If there are no such obstacles to the installation of MDF panels, then approximately the same preparation of the wall surface is carried out both for the frame system and for gluing. It consists of several operations:
- Cleaning the wall.
If the wall is covered with wallpaper, then it must be completely removed, otherwise closed space they can become a breeding ground for mold or even insects. High-quality wallpaper that is difficult to remove must first be wetted with water or steamed with an iron, and then scraped off with a spatula. Sometimes you have to resort to using special compounds for.
If the wall is plastered and whitewashed, or well-painted water-based paint, then cleaning it is not necessary.
- Wall treatment.
In the case where there are mold stains on the wall, the surface must be “treated” - treated special composition“Anti-mold” or the usual concentrated laundry bleaching agent - “Whiteness”. Before treatment, it is recommended to clean the surface to the maximum possible depth with a spatula. When the applied composition is absorbed and dried, the wall must be cleaned again with a spatula, and then the treatment must be repeated. It is advisable to clean the area affected by the fungus down to the base, that is, remove the plaster in this place completely and thoroughly treat the main wall itself.
“Treatment” of affected areas of the wall with antiseptic compounds This work should be carried out in compliance with mandatory safety measures, wearing a respirator or a special mask, in order to avoid inhaling particles of fungus-affected plaster.
- Sealing cracks.
If, after removing wallpaper or “weak” plaster, cracks are found on the wall, it is recommended to repair them, especially when planning to place heat- and sound-insulating materials under MDF panels. Cracks must be sealed so that they do not become bridges of cold, and also a place where dampness accumulates, various insects or even mold can find shelter.
The cracks are first cut in breadth and depth, ... In order for the putty or plaster solution to adhere well to the gap in the crack, it needs to be slightly widened and deepened. It is then cleaned of residues old plaster and processed with a brush.
... and then tightly filled with repair mortar After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed. putty mixture or plaster mortar. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the expanded gap is filled to its entire depth.
- Surface primer.
The next step is priming the entire surface of the walls. Moreover, it is necessary to choose a primer composition containing antiseptic components that will resist the occurrence and development of mold, as well as other manifestations harmful to humans.
Mandatory operation - thorough priming of the entire surface of the wall If you plan to sheathe wooden walls, it is recommended to choose a primer that contains not only antiseptics, but also fire retardants - they will increase the fire resistance of the wood.
The primer is applied to the wall using a roller in two or three layers, each of which must dry thoroughly before applying the next.
- Installation insulation material.
Next, if the panels will be attached to the sheathing, you can proceed to gluing the insulating material. Penofol, which is glued to a primed surface, is well suited for this purpose.
The most convenient to use is penofol with a self-adhesive base. Today you can find self-adhesive “penofol” on sale - you can very easily fix it on the wall with foil towards the room by removing the protective film backing. If such material is not found, then ordinary “penofol” is purchased. It is cut to the height of the wall and glued to Teploflex glue applied even layer on the wall surface or directly on the insulation. The “penofol” sheets are pressed to the surface, and the air is expelled from under it using a rubber spatula.
Gluing the joints of adjacent penofol strips with tape The sheets of material are mounted end-to-end, and then the glue must be allowed to dry, after which the joints are sealed with special foil tape.
Installation of frame structure
Carrying out marking
If you decide to install MDF panels on a frame, you first need to decide how the elements will be installed, vertically or horizontally, since the location of the sheathing guides depends on this factor. For horizontal orientation of the panels, the guide battens are mounted vertically. And vice versa, if the panels are mounted vertically, the frame elements are installed perpendicular to them, horizontally.
The frame is fixed on top of the insulating material. The pitch between the sheathing guides is usually selected within 500÷600 mm from each other, and they must be installed perfectly evenly.
To find the ideal vertical, you need to use a plumb line with a colored cord, with which you can mark straight lines on the wall. If lines are marked on a foil surface, then immediately after marking, each of them is additionally highlighted with a black marker using a ruler.
To determine the horizontal I resort to the help of a level. The most accurate result will be given by laser or water. If there are no such tools, then you can use a regular construction tool, pushing the bubble into the middle with special care. Having outlined the currents, they are also connected by lines using a colored cord.
Based on the markings, it will be quite easy to correctly secure the guide battens.
When marking, you need to take into account that the first frame guide is installed at the junction of two surfaces, that is, in the corner of the room or along the floor surface. The first racks will serve as a reference line for the remaining elements, maintaining the established step.
Wooden frame
Wooden blocks, despite the marking lines, when installed on a wall are still checked with a building level for evenness. Then, they are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes are drilled directly through the beams into which plastic dowels are driven, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them (or driven dowel-nails are used). Fastening elements are installed at a distance of 350÷400 mm from each other. The length of the dowels or self-tapping screws is selected so that they extend into the thickness of the wall by at least 50÷60 mm, and the thickness of the sheathing beam is added to this parameter, taking into account that the head of the self-tapping screw is completely recessed into the wood.
It is more difficult to bring all the posts of the sheathing to the same level if the wall requires leveling with sheathing, and the bars themselves will have to be secured to hangers. In this case, the installation of the frame is carried out in the same way for wooden bars and metal profiles.
First, hangers are attached to the wall along the marking lines. I fix them on the wall with two dowels, maintaining a spacing between adjacent ones of 350÷400 mm from each other. The shelves of the hangers are bent perpendicular to the wall surface.
Then the two outermost beams on the wall are installed, leveled and relative to the wall. They are attached on both sides with self-tapping screws to the shelves of the suspensions. The protruding parts of the shelves are bent back towards the wall.
The installed outer guides are connected along the outer edge with stretched cords at the top and bottom (or right and left - if the frame is horizontally oriented) - these will become reference lines (beacons) for correct installation the remaining guides in a single plane.
Metal carcass
Prepared to size metal profiles They are fixed to the wall according to the same principle as wooden blocks, but sometimes, for structural rigidity, timber inserts are made in them. To secure the profile, hangers must be used, even if the wall is perfectly flat and the racks will fit closely to it.
If the frame is installed on wooden wall, then the hangers for attaching the sheathing guides are fixed on the wall using wood screws. If installation on another wall base is necessary, then the hangers are best secured with driven dowel-nails.
If the trim is attached to a wall that has a window or doorway, then appropriate guides must be installed along its edge, on which the cladding will first be attached, and subsequently the slopes and trims.
Installation of MDF panels on a frame
Before installing the cladding, all electrical or other cable communications are carried out and secured under the frame, immediately determining the installation locations of sockets and switches, if they are provided on the wall being finished.
Installation begins with the preparation of MDF panels - they need to be cut to the height or length of the wall. The panels are marked using a tape measure and a construction angle, the corresponding lines are drawn along which the cut is made using a jigsaw, a manual vertical circular saw, or even an ordinary hacksaw.
- The first panel must be leveled until the ideal vertical (or horizontal) is achieved, otherwise the entire cladding will then be skewed.
- The starting panel is installed with a tenon in the corner and secured to the guides on the corner side in two or three places with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, clamps are inserted into the groove of the panel at the places where it intersects with the sheathing guides, through which it is finally fixed with nails or staples to the wooden frame. When using a metal frame, the clamps are fixed using small self-tapping screws with a low head so that, after being fully screwed in, it does not interfere with subsequent installation.
- To begin with, the tenon of each next panel is tightly driven into the groove of the already installed one - this joining edge is already fixed. Mandatory level adjustment of the panel is carried out, since the configuration of this connection allows for a certain backlash. After precise alignment, the panel is fixed in the same way with clamps.
- So continue the cladding until the end of the wall (or until the end of the section, for example, to the doorway). The last panel on the plane is cut according to its thickness so that it fits freely into the groove, leaving a gap of about 5 mm in the corner. The final fixation of the final panel is carried out with self-tapping screws, directly through it. It's okay - the fastener caps at the beginning and end of the lined wall will be hidden by decorative corners.
Horizontal installation of panels is carried out in the direction from floor to ceiling, and the first panel must also be perfectly level. Fastening to the sheathing follows exactly the same principle as with a vertical arrangement.
- The panel on which the socket or switch is to be installed is pre-cut round hole with a diameter corresponding to the size of a standard socket box (usually 67 mm). Drilling is carried out using a core drill.
The socket must be securely fastened and not bend when inserting the plug of electrical appliances. To ensure rigid support against the wall, it is recommended to additionally secure wooden fragments of suitable thickness on the back side. The front part of the socket and switch is screwed onto cladding panels or to the corresponding sockets of the electrical outlet.
Installation of MDF panels with glue
It is somewhat easier to install MDF panels with glue than with lathing, but using this method, it will not be possible to install insulation.
- To install the first panel, you need to mark a vertical or horizontal line on the wall, depending on how you plan to install it.
When gluing, the position of the panel must be checked by level.
- Particular attention should be paid to the choice of glue for working with MDF panels - it must have some special properties:
— The glue must remain sufficiently plastic even after its initial hardening, otherwise there is a risk of deformation of the panels. A composition must be selected that will not be affected by humidity and temperature changes.
— The glue must have a sufficiently thick consistency so that it can be applied in a thick or thin layer, depending on the circumstances, and also be evenly distributed over the surface to be glued.
The best option- “liquid nails” glue The “Liquid Nails” composition precisely meets these requirements in terms of basic parameters. The primer with which the walls are treated in advance will create good adhesion for the glue on their surface, so the panels will adhere securely to it.
- The glue is applied to the back side of the MDF lining in dotted or wavy lines. The panel with the glue applied is first pressed firmly against the wall, and then torn off and left to “weather” the glue for 3-5 minutes. After this, for final fixation, the panel is reinstalled and pressed into in the right place, and is held on the wall surface for several seconds until the adhesive composition has set securely.
The adhesive can be applied to the back side of the panels pointwise or in a “snake” pattern. Therefore, in order to speed up the gluing process, the composition is applied immediately to 8 ÷ 10 canvases, which are pressed against the wall and then torn off. Having spread, applied and torn off the last of the 10 panels, they glue the first, second and so on until it comes to the last. When installing the canvases, they need to be pressed very well against the wall surface, and for better fixation, you can even grab each of them with self-tapping screws in two places. They are screwed into the groove of the panel, and then the self-tapping screw is closed with the installed tenon of the next one.
- If the trim is installed horizontally, it is recommended to wait until the glue under the lowest fixed panel has dried well - it is necessary to create a reliable support for the remaining panels. If there is no time to wait, then the panel can also be secured to the wall with self-tapping screws.
- The last mounted panel, if necessary, is reduced in width - it is measured, lined up and the excess part is sawed off using a jigsaw. In the corner, the last panel is screwed to the sheathing or wall with a self-tapping screw.
- The final installation elements are corner fittings and plinths. The corners are glued at the junctions of two planes using “liquid nails,” covering the heads of the screws that secure the panels to the corners of the wall. In the same way, these fittings are fixed around door and window openings(if special profiles are not used - platbands or slopes).
They can be mounted in different ways, depending on the chosen design - glued with the same glue, installed on special fasteners, or screwed with self-tapping screws to the wall surface. Attaching skirting boards to the floor would be a very serious mistake.
Find out how to produce by reading step by step instructions in an article on our portal.
Advantages and disadvantages of finishing walls with MDF panels
Having become familiar with technological process installation of MDF panels, we can summarize their main positive and negative qualities.
So to merits Such finishing material includes the following qualities:
- Quite simple installation with the ability to mount panels both vertically and horizontally.
- A wide variety of colors and textured patterns will allow you to choose a finish to suit every taste and interior style.
- When installing MDF panels on a frame sheathing, cable communications can be hidden behind them.
- With the help of panels, even curved walls can be given a respectable appearance and visual evenness, especially with the right combination of shades.
- Panels, unlike drywall, do not require additional finishing - this saves time, effort, and materials.
- MDF finishes are easy to care for, as the surface only needs to be wiped periodically with a damp soft cloth.
- MDF finishing wall panels have a very affordable price.
Disadvantages Such panels include the following points:
- This type of finishing does not create a perfect smooth surface, since small gaps or depressions almost always form at the joints, depending on the design of the panel.
- When attaching such cladding to the sheathing, a gap remains between it and the wall, in which, if pre-treatment is insufficient or other unfavorable conditions, dampness can accumulate, and microflora that is unsafe for humans may develop. Very often, especially if the walls of a private house are lined, this empty space becomes a favorable place for nests or travel routes for rodents.
- The coating of the panels is not highly resistant to mechanical stress - it is easy to damage it, for example, by moving pieces of furniture without sufficient care.
- MDF is in no way a moisture-resistant material, so if the wall behind the cladding begins to get damp, the panels may swell and the cladding will begin to deform.
However, it can be noted that despite the above disadvantages, MDF panels are only gaining popularity and fully compete with. Installation of such cladding can be easily carried out even by one person without outside help, moreover, having absolutely no experience in such work, unless, of course, he follows all technological recommendations.
And in conclusion - a small visual material» in the form of a video about the installation of MDF panels:
Video: how to install MDF panels on walls
