Maintenance elements for the SuperProgramAvtomatika sewing machine
| 1 | Flywheel | 18 | Thread guide |
| 2 | Winder stop | 19 | Screw for securing the needle |
| 3 | Winder spindle | 20 | Machine class designation |
| 4 | Reel Rods | 21 | Upper tension regulator threads |
| 5 | 5. Thread pre-tension regulator | 22 | |
| 6 | Thread guides | 23 | Pattern selection knob |
| 7 | Sleeve cover | 24 | Program switch knob |
| 8 | Thread take-up lever eye | 25 | Switch for making loops |
| 9 | Light switch | 26 | Shift lever |
| 10 | Front cover | 27 | Sample table |
| 11 | Eyelet for thread | 28 | Stitch length adjustment knob |
| 12 | Presser foot screw | 29 | Reverse shift lever stitch progress |
| 13 | Presser foot | 30 | Conveyor lowering lever |
| 14 | Needle plate | 31 | Sight glass |
| 15 | Sliding plate | 32 | Flywheel freewheel screw wheels |
| 16 | Conveyor | 33 | Index letters and number cars |
| 17 | Needle |
Attention!All necessary work on a sewing machine with electric drive, for example: replacing a needle, replacing a presser foot, replacing a V-belt, threading, etc., should be done only after removing the foot from the control rheostat, so that if you accidentally move your foot, the machine will not start up
General instructions
2. Basic Rules
Turn the flywheel only towards you.
-Be sure to lower the presser foot before starting to sew.
-Run the machine with the thread threaded only with a cloth placed under the presser foot.
-During sewing, do not pull or move the fabric.
-In the non-working position of the machine, switching levers and buttons can be done if the needle is raised above the fabric.
-Keep the machine clean and lubricate it regularly (also lubricate the machine before sewing for the first time).
-Before and after sewing, each time raise the thread guide lever 8 to the highest position. This will prevent the thread from getting pinched, and in addition, the finished work will be easier to remove.
- Make sure that the feed lowering lever 30 is moved to the right side for sewing (section 15)
3. (Fig. 2)
Needles are used in 705 or 130 systems.
By turning the handwheel, the needle is set to its highest position. Then unscrew the fastening screw and remove the needle or the remainder of the broken needle.
A new needle is inserted with the left hand. By turning the flat side of the thickened part of the needle back, the needle is inserted into the needle holder and into the slot of the rod until it stops. Then tighten the screw to secure the needle.
The thread groove on the needle is located at the front. The thread is threaded into the needle from front to back. An incorrectly inserted needle or not to the end stop causes thread breakage and stitch skipping.
4. Needle and thread
In addition to the correct thread tension, it is necessary to match the thickness of the needle, thread and fabric being sewn. Very thin needles break when sewing thick fabrics and using thick threads. Thick needles make large punctures in thin tissue and worsen appearance lines. If stitches are skipped or the thread breaks, the needle is replaced with a new needle, the number of which corresponds to the thickness of the thread (section 3).
Mismatched, crooked, and blunt needles create unsightly seams, skipped stitches, and broken threads.
Do not allow the bobbin thread to be thicker than the top thread.
The thickness of the bottom thread should be the same or thinner than the thickness of the top thread.
5. Enable and disable sewing mechanism
The sewing mechanism is turned on by turning the screw disk 32 in the direction of the arrow “b”. In this case, the left hand holds the flywheel 1 (Fig. 3).
To wind the thread onto the bobbin, the sewing mechanism is turned off. To do this, hold the flywheel with your left hand, and right hand turn the screw disk in the direction of arrow “a” (Fig. 3)
6. (Fig. 4) 
By rotating the handwheel, the thread take-up lever is set to its highest position. Then the sliding plate 15 is pulled out and through the hole in the platform, with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, open the latch 47 of the bobbin case and remove the bobbin case with the bobbin (Fig. 4).
Winding the thread onto the bobbin is done with the sewing mechanism turned off.
After turning off the sewing mechanism (Fig. 3), a spool of thread is put on the spool pin 4. The end of the thread unwound from the spool is wrapped around the thread guide 5 and under the clamp to create thread tension. bobbin put on spindle 3 and turn until entering spindle pin into bobbin groove. After winding the thread several times on the bobbin, the winder is pressed against the flywheel. As soon as the bobbin is wound, the winder automatically turns off. The winder is wrung out and the bobbin is removed. For the education of correct and beautiful seam It is advisable for the lower thread to be slightly thinner than the upper thread.
8. (Fig. 6)
On the cover of the sewing machine sleeve there are two rods 4 for spools, which, if there is no need for them, can be installed in a horizontal position. To attach the coil, they are moved to a vertical position.
Before lowering the top of the machine into the cabinet table, the spool pins should be rotated to a horizontal position.
9. 
The bobbin case with the closed latch is taken with the left hand so that the bobbin with the thread wound can be inserted into the open part with the right hand. When pulling the thread, the inserted bobbin should rotate from left to right (in the direction of clockwise rotation) (Fig. 7)
Then the thread is pulled through the cut in the bobbin case under the tension spring until it exits spout “a” (Fig. 8 and 9).
The thread can also be inserted into the hole in the end side of the bobbin case. It is advisable to do this when sewing with a zigzag stitch, when there are increased demands on the quality of the seam.
10. Installing the bobbin case
To install the bobbin case, the handwheel 1 is turned until the thread take-up lever 8 is raised to its highest position.
For the beginning seamstress, it is recommended to insert the bobbin case while tilting the machine on its side.
Use your thumb to press down on the bobbin case until the case engages in the latch. If the bobbin case does not fit into the clamp, it may cause the needle to break and other damage.
By rotating the handwheel 1, the needle is set to its highest position.
The thread tension in the regulator 21 is weakened by raising the lever for lifting the presser foot rod. The upper thread is threaded in the rear and front thread guides 6, then laid between two clamping washers of the tension regulator 21, then through the eye of the thread take-up lever 8, the thread eye 11 and the thread guide 18. Fig. 10
The thread is threaded into the needle from front to back. To start working, leave the free end of the thread behind a needle 10 cm long. To make it easier, the top thread threading diagram is shown on the front cover. Rice. eleven
12.
The presser foot is designed as a stepped element. The first step involves sewing and darning without a foot. At the second stage, the upper thread tension mechanism is turned off.
After raising the foot to the second step, take the free end of the upper thread with your left hand without pulling it. The flywheel is turned in the direction of the arrow (Fig. 1) one revolution until the thread take-up lever 8 rises to its uppermost position. Carefully pulling out the end of the upper thread, simultaneously pull the lower thread upward (Fig. 12)
Both ends of the threads are laid under the foot on the back side (Fig. 13).
The stitch length adjuster knob 28 is used to set the stitch length for normal seams (Fig. 14). Switch lever 29 is designed for reverse feeding and sewing fabric with a normal seam.
The knob scale 28 has digital values for setting the stitch length.
If you want to get the same stitch length when feeding the fabric back as when sewing forward, then press switch 29 down all the way (Fig. 14). Backstitching is only intended to secure the seam.
As a rule you should:
Thin fabrics should be sewn with a thin thread and a small stitch pitch. Thick fabrics with thread of appropriate thickness and large stitch pitch.
It should be taken into account that the conveyor lowering lever 30 is moved to the right side (the “zigzag” symbol is visible on the lever button).
To obtain super-elastic seams, the stitch length regulator knob 28 is set to 4 mm (symbol). This predetermines the stitch length for various seams and the intervention of the seamstress is not required.
Attention!
When sewing with a symbol, the front and back stitches are programmed. In this case, you cannot move the reverse stitching lever.
14. Correct fabric management.
At the beginning and at the end of sewing, the thread take-up lever 8 (Fig. 1) should be in its uppermost position. The fabric is placed under the foot up to the needle, then the foot is lowered, the ends of the lower and upper threads are held with the left hand until several stitches are made. The fabric is advanced automatically by the machine.
During the sewing process, the fabric should not be pulled, you only need to slightly adjust it with your hands.
Pulling and pushing the fabric causes the needle to bend or break, which can cause damage to the sewing mechanism.
Hard spots or thick seams should be sewn slowly while rotating the hand wheel.
In such cases, it is recommended to raise the foot and move the fabric a little. When sewing very thin fabrics, such as silk, etc., it is recommended to lightly guide the fabric behind the presser foot to prevent the seam from curling. Besides. It is advisable to place thin paper under the fabric.
If you want to sew sharp corners, then stop the machine when the needle has risen from the lower position to the thickness of your finger. Then raise the foot, turn the fabric on the needle in the desired direction, lower the foot and continue sewing.
The finished work is removed in the following order: the thread take-up lever 8 is placed in its uppermost position, the presser foot is raised and the finished fabric is pulled back. To avoid bending the needle, the thread should slide back easily under the foot.
To form a seam, the conveyor must not be lowered and the stitch length regulator knob must not be set to zero.
The presser foot pressure should be adjusted according to the type of fabric. Thin fabrics require less pressure to press than thick fabrics. The pressure of the presser foot on the fabric should be such that uniform advancement of the fabric is ensured, and the needle, when moving upward, does not catch the fabric.
To adjust the degree of pressure of the presser feet, remove the front cover (section 27). When turning the adjusting screw to the right, the pressure increases and when turning to the left it decreases (Fig. 16).
To replace the foot, the needle is set to the highest position and the rod with the foot is raised. Then unscrew the fastening screw to such an extent that the presser foot can be removed obliquely downwards (Fig. 17).
18.
On the front side of the machine there is a plate with samples of stitch 27, which shows decorative and working seams. Individual seam samples are indicated with digital indicators. On the sleeve cover 7 there is a shift lever 26, which moves in the direction of the slot. In accordance with the desired seam, the shift lever is installed in the appropriate direction, forward (towards you) or backward (away from you).
The central selection knob will make it extremely easy for you to install various seams (stitches). Using the program switch knob 24 (Fig. 18), you will select the appropriate program “normal”, (elastic) or “loop” and then use the pattern selection knob to select the required seam (Fig. 19). At the same time, make sure that the shift lever 26 is moved towards the desired seam (forward or backward).
When turning on the program switching and pattern selection knobs, pay attention to the fact that both knobs have end points that cannot be switched through.
Do not turn on handles and levers while the needle is still in the fabric.
Attention!For seams with the symbol, select a medium sewing speed (600 - 800 rpm).
19. Adjusting thread tension
A)
The factory-set thread tension is suitable for different thread numbers and different sewing jobs. In this regard, it is recommended to become familiar with the degree of thread tension by touch. To do this, take the bobbin case with your left hand, and pull the thread out of the case with your right hand. This way they feel what the thread tension should be.
A small change in the thread clamp is carried out using a spring screw (Fig. 20)
When turning the screw to the left, the pressure of the spring on the thread decreases. When you turn the screw to the right, the spring pressure on the thread increases. 
Dear buyer!
Class 8014/43 will be equipped with two versions of mechanisms for tensioning the upper thread.
Depending on the option, use the description of the mechanism for tensioning the upper thread B or C.
B) (Fig. 21)
When turning the knob to the right (clockwise), the upper thread tension increases, and when turning to the left it decreases.
The tension of the upper thread for all sewing work is achieved by one turn of the knob, on which there are digital marks from 0 to 9.
0 to 2 low tension (for example, for buttonholes, decorative seams, embroidery).
3 to 6 normal tension
7 to 9 increased tension.
C) (Fig. 22)
The upper thread tension is adjusted by turning the knob. When turning to the right (in the direction of the + arrow), the tension increases. When turning to the left (in the direction of the arrow -), the thread tension decreases. In order to quickly and roughly set the thread tension, a jumper with a red marking is located between the tension housing and the thread tension knob.
The edge of the handle should be placed on this marking in order to finally adjust the tension of the upper thread after sewing the control seam.
Correct straight stitch
- Set pattern selection knob 23 to 4.
- Set the program switch lever to “normal”
The quality of the stitch depends on the correct adjustment of the thread tension. To control, sew a row of seams and check the tension of the upper and lower threads.
The interlacing of the upper and lower threads should be in the middle of the fabric (Fig. 23a)
If knots and loops form on the underside of the fabric, this is a sign that the upper thread tension is insufficient or the lower thread tension is too high (Fig. 23 b)
If the formation of knots and loops occurs on the upper side of the fabric, then this is a sign of excessive tension in the upper thread or weak tension in the lower thread (Fig. 23 c) 
If, during the sewing process, loops and knots are formed alternately on the upper and lower sides of the fabric, this means that the tension of both threads is insufficient. It is also not advisable to set the thread tension very high, as this can cause thread breakage, especially thin threads.
On very thin fabrics, loops of top and bobbin threads form on both sides of the fabric
20. Sewing instructions
1. Sewing fabrics folded in two layers.
1.1. Seams for normal load
a) (Fig. 24)
Set shift lever forward
Program switch knob
set to "normal".
Stitch length 1.5 4 Straight stitch foot No. 511 (order No. 84 00 37 31)
Straight stitch is used to sew together fabric folded in two layers.
b) zipper stitch(Fig. 25)
Set shift lever back
Stitch length 2 - 3
This stitch allows you to sew two layers of fabric and stitch the edge at the same time. Two pieces of fabric are tucked under the foot in such a way that four straight stitches sew the fabric together, and one side stitch sews outside the fabric at the very edge, the resulting loops protect the edge of the fabric from fraying. This stitch can also be used to edge the edges of fabric. When the stitch length is very short, the zipper stitch is an elastic stitch.
V) 
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length 1 - 2
The edges of the fabric are placed one on top of the other and sewn together with a feather stitch.
G) Knit stitch good flat stitch for knitwear
(Fig. 27)
Install the shift lever back
Program switch knob
set to “normal” Stitch length approx. 1
When sewing with this seam, the edges of the fabrics are overlapped by 5 mm and sewn together.
1.2. Seams for highly elastic material rice. 27a
A) Home overlocker 
Install the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 3
Zigzag foot No. 34
Elastic straight stitch with simultaneous overcasting is used as a zipper stitch only for stretch fabrics
b) Herringbone stitch(Fig. 28) 
Install the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 7
Set the program switch knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length adjuster knob to
It is necessary to place two parts of the material at the joint and sew them together with a herringbone stitch. And when sewn normally, the herringbone stitch is a very elastic seam.
c) (Fig. 29) 
Install the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 6
Set the program switch knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length adjuster knob to
Zigzag stitch foot No. 534
Used for stitching with simultaneous overcasting. This is a flat, very elastic seam. When sewing with this seam, the edges of the fabric are overlapped by 5 mm and sewn together.
Application area:
- for edging tablecloths
- for sewing rubber tape
- for sewing and overcasting at the same time
- for decoration with decorative stitches
d) (Fig. 30) 
Install the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length adjuster knob to
Zigzag stitch foot No. 534
Very elastic seam. This stitch is especially suitable for knitted items, with intermediate stitches strengthening the tightness of the stitches.
Application area:
for edging knitwear
for sewing knitwear
for decoration with a decorative stitch.
d) Additional adjustment of super-elastic seams
When using different qualities and thicknesses of fabric, it is possible to install super-elastic (reverse) seams, depending on the fabric used. This additional adjustment is very simple and can be done by every housewife.
To do this, the following techniques are required:
c) (Fig. 30a) 
Install the shift lever back
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length 2
Zigzag foot No. 534
The arc seam is used for sewing elastic knitted and knitted products. Since this seam is elastic and decorative, it is used for sewing on lace.
Attention! The shorter the stitch length, the more elastic the seam.
An arc seam is suitable for sewing parts together.
These parts are sewn together with several stitches and a reliable connection is formed.
By superimposing a zigzag stitch on an arc stitch, it is possible to lengthen, for example, children's clothing, and in a beautiful way.
1.3 Seams for special loads
A) Triple reinforced secure stitching(Fig. 31) 
Set shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length adjuster knob to
Zigzag foot No. 534
A particularly durable seam that is used where a normal seam would break, such as sewing on pockets and sleeves and sewing trousers.
b) (Fig. 32) 
Set shift lever forward
, 2 or 3
Set the program switch knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length adjustment knob to Zigzag foot No. 534
These seams are particularly strong and have high elasticity.
c) (Fig. 33) 
Install the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 2
Set the program switch knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length adjuster knob to
Zigzag stitch foot No. 534
Very elastic and durable stitching with reinforcing stitches. Suitable for sewing trousers and sportswear.
G) Herringbone stitch(see Fig. 28)
Install the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to
Set the program switch knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length adjuster knob to
Zigzag foot No. 534
The seam is very elastic. Used for durable sewing of fabric, for example, when sewing skirts and children's clothing. It is necessary to place two parts of the material at the joint and sew them together with a herringbone stitch with a simultaneous decorative effect.
d) Stitch for securing pockets
Set the pattern selection knob to 1
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Set the stitch length adjuster knob to
Feeder lowers Zigzag stitch foot No. 534
After the usual sewing of the pocket, for special reinforcement, fastenings of 15 - 20 stitches are sewn on the edges. You can also sew on emblems.
2.
a) zigzag stitches (Fig. 34)
Set shift lever forward
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length 1 - 3
Zigzag foot No. 534
These seams are strong and elastic. When a very strong seam is not required, a wide zigzag stitch can be used. In this case, set the pattern selection knob to 1, stitch length 13.
b) zipper stitching(Fig. 34a) 
Install the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 3
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length 2
Zigzag stitch foot No. 534
The overcasting fabric is tucked under the foot so that the straight stitches go past the edge of the fabric and the zigzag stitch goes through the fabric. This seam is used when sewing trousers.
c) (Fig. 35) 
Install the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 5
Set the program switch knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length adjuster knob to
Zigzag foot No. 534
This stitch is especially suitable for finishing edges on fringed fabrics. Intermediate stitches strengthen the fabric well.
G) knit stitch 
Install the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 6
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length 1.5 - 2
Zigzag foot No. 534
The overcasting fabric is tucked under the foot so that straight stitches are sewn alternately into the fabric and then past it at the very edge.
3. Sewing buttonholes(Fig. 36 - 41)
Set shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 5
Set the program switch knob to “loop”
Set the switch for making loops in the upward direction of the arrow.
Set the stitch length adjuster knob to the “loop” symbol.
Buttonhole foot N 771
To sew buttonholes, the pattern selection knob must be set to “5”. The program switch knob is set so that the “loop” symbol is at the top (Fig. 36).
Now you need to move the switch for making loops 25 in the upward direction of the arrow. In this case, the program switching and pattern selection knobs are firmly connected to each other (Fig. 36). Now both knobs turn on together. 
Sequence of working strokes (the position of the control knobs is shown in the figures):
1.
Sewing the right side of the buttonhole (fabric moves backward) - bring the needle to the top position.
2.
Sewing the first bartack - bring the needle to the top position
3.
Sewing the left side of the buttonhole - bring the needle to the top position
4.
Sewing the second bartack
Do not forget to move the buttonhole switch to its original position after finishing sewing the buttonhole.
4. (Fig. 42) 
Set shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 1
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Set the stitch length adjuster knob to
Conveyor lowers
Button sewing foot No. 291
The Button Sew-on Foot makes it easy to sew on buttons, hooks, eyes, and snaps. The button is placed under the foot so that the button holes are within the cutout of the foot. The needle should, in the left position, pierce in the center of the left hole and in the right position, pierce in the center of the right hole of the button. After starting the machine, sewing on the button and securing the thread is carried out automatically.
If a button has more than two holes, then for the next two holes the button is rearranged and stitched in the order indicated above.
A) Narrow hem in lingerie(Fig. 43)
Set the pattern selection knob to 4.
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Hearer foot No. 111
Before you start practical application It is advisable to familiarize yourself with the hemper beforehand.
The hem is suitable for thin to medium-thick fabrics and does a good job of hemming bias-cut fabrics. The needle is raised to its maximum height and the presser foot is replaced with a hem.
Raising the bottom thread up, it is laid together with the top thread under the hem back.
Before starting the hem, you should cut the corner of the fabric at an angle so that the fabric can be more easily wrapped in the hem.
Then the fabric is folded with a width of approximately 6 mm and passed through the hem hole to the needle.
The hem is lowered and 23 stitches are sewn. Then the beginning of the hem, together with the ends of the threads, is slightly pulled back until the conveyor captures the hem well.
To obtain a smooth and even hem, the edge of the fabric is directed with the thumb and forefinger into the hem (Fig. 43), while it is necessary to adjust the width of the strip of fabric entering the hem. It is recommended to slightly lift the fabric when feeding.
The hem is often used for hemming handkerchiefs, towels, shirts, blouses, etc.
b) (Fig. 44)
Set shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 1
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length 1.5 - 2.5
Zigzag stitch foot No. 534
Fold the straight cut edge of the fabric to a certain width and sew with a zigzag stitch, as shown in Fig. 44.
c) (Fig. 44 a)
Set shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length 2 - 3
Straight stitch foot No. 511
The guide ruler is used for seams that run parallel to the edge of the material (Fig. 44a). Using a set screw, the guide ruler is secured at the required distance from the foot on the machine platform. The edge of the material runs along the guide ruler.
6. Darning and sewing patches,
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length 1.5 - 3
Zigzag stitch foot No. 534
By sewing several three-stitch zigzag seams side by side in one place, you can darn frayed areas in clothing.
b) 
Set shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
The foot is removed and the conveyor is lowered. Cut out the damaged area and pull the fabric tightly into the hoop. Place the fabric under the needle and pull the bottom thread up through the fabric. The presser foot lift lever is lowered down to maintain tension on the upper thread. When the machine moves quickly, the hoop is moved with both hands slowly and evenly back and forth in the direction of the fabric threads, extending approximately 1 cm beyond the edges of the defective area. Then they darn in the transverse direction.
c) (Fig. 47) 
Set shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 1
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length 1.5 - 2.5
Zigzag stitch foot No. 534
Place a patch under the defective area, the size of which is larger than the worn area. The direction of the threads of the patch and the fabric must match. The patch is sewn along the edge. The corners of the patch are stitched twice for strength. After sewing on the patch, the damaged part of the fabric is cut out lengthwise inseam. The protruding edges of the patch are also cut off.
G) Sewing patches onto knitwear(Fig. 48a, b, c)
Install the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length 1
Zigzag stitch foot No. 534
This stitch is ideal for household projects such as:
- Sewing a patch onto knitwear.
- Sewing a rubber band
- Sewing two pieces of material together.
A patch is placed under the defective area, the size of which should be larger than the worn area and the weave of the threads of which coincides with the fabric. The patch is basted with several stitches (Fig. 48 a). A seam is sewn along the basting and a second seam is sewn nearby at approximately a distance of 0.5 cm (Fig. 48 b). The damaged part of the fabric is cut out along the inner seam (Fig. 48 c). Then trim the edges of the patch along the outer seam and remove the threads used for basting.
7. Sewing the zipper and rubber bands.
A) Sewing on zippers(Fig. 49) 
Set shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length as required
Edge foot No. 181
The edge foot is attached to the machine. The foot is used for sewing narrow edges and for sewing on zippers (Fig. 49).
When sewing on a zipper, the fabric is not stretched, but the zipper, on the contrary, is tightened.
b) Sewing a wide rubber band
Install the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 4 or 5
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length 1 - 2 or 2 - 3
Zigzag stitch foot No. 534 The rubber tape is sewn to the fabric with a zigzag seam without tension, so the fabric does not crimp.
c) (Fig. 50) 
Install the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length 1
Zigzag stitch foot No. 534
The fabric is laid out smoothly and the beginning of the rubber band is sewn on. The tape is then stretched according to need. Once sewn, the rubber band compresses and adds crimp to the fabric.
G) Sewing the rubber cord
Set shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to “normal”.
Stitch length 23
Zigzag stitch foot No. 534
The rubber cord is wound with light tension by hand onto the bobbin, as described in section 9, without changing the tension of the spring. By holding the bobbin, the rubber cord is stretched, as a result of which the rubber becomes thinner and easier to thread, and it does not pass through the hole in the bobbin case. The rubber cord is lifted up (see section 12), the fabric is laid under the foot and stitched. The result is crimp in the fabric.
8. Patterns and decorations
a) (Fig. 51) 
Set shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length approx. 3
Edge foot with ruler N «181 (order no. 84 00 36 21)
The screw-on guide allows you to easily sew parallel seams. The fabric is directed so that the ruler slides along the stitched seam. The second seam is stitched at a specified distance. In this way, you can sew rows and squares of the same width, as well as quilt cotton products. (Fig. 51). The cotton wool is placed between two layers of fabric and stitched evenly.
b) (Fig. 52)
Set shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 1, 2 or 3.
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length 1 1.5
Zigzag stitch foot No. 534
Fold the edge of the fabric 2 - 3 mm, place the lace and sew it with a zigzag stitch.
V) 
Install the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 5
Set the program switch knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length adjuster knob to 2
Zigzag stitch foot No. 534
Depending on the desired length, the fringes are pulled out of the fabric required amount threads To prevent the threads from fraying, the upper edge is sewn with a cross stitch (Fig. 53). The seam looks very beautiful if the color of the sewing thread differs from the color of the fabric. Tablecloths, mufflers, scarves, etc. are decorated with fringe.
d) (Fig. 54)
The finishing border can be sewn with a crochet stitch, herringbone stitch, cross stitch or feather stitch. The border can be sewn by making different stitches and combining them using the repeat indicator. This is how decorations for various clothes are made.
e) (Fig. 55)
Forward shift lever.
Set the pattern selection knob to 1, 2 or 3
Set the program switch knob to “normal”
Stitch length optional 0.5 - 3
Zigzag stitch foot N 534
Applications can be made in two ways:
Cut out patterns can be sewn with tight (minimal pitch) or wide (large pitch) zigzag stitches (Fig. 55).
The applique is drawn on the fabric and sewn) along the lines of the design using narrow, short zigzag stitches.
Then the protruding edge of the applique is cut close to the seam and the applique is sewn with wider zigzag stitches (with a minimum pitch) (Fig. 56). In this case, the tension of the upper thread must be loosened.
e) (Fig. 57)
When embroidering, as when darning, remove the presser foot from the machine by unscrewing the screw securing the foot. The conveyor is lowered. The presser foot lift lever is lowered down so that the upper thread is under tension.
Embroidery is darning to perfection and requires extreme confidence in the direction of the fabric.
The design is applied to the fabric. The fabric is hooped. The fabric is placed with the right side up on the outer ring and then pressed tightly with the inner ring. A hoop with stretched fabric and a pattern applied to it is placed under the needle so that the fabric lies directly on the needle plate. Place the fabric under the needle and raise the lower thread. The hoop is moved by hand so that the needle makes injections according to the pattern. The hoop is moved with light and quick movements when the needle is outside the fabric.
21. Lighting
The sewing machine has a built-in electric lamp that provides good illumination of the material being sewn. Light switch 9 is located on the front cover. The incandescent lamp has a screw base. To prevent malfunction of the machine, do not install lamps with a power of more than 20 watts.
Finger-shaped lamps 220 V/15 or 20 W with E 14 socket should be used.
22. Care
If used frequently, the machine must be thoroughly cleaned once a week. Daily use of the machine requires daily lubrication.
Each bearing is lubricated with one or two drops machine oil(Fig. 66,68).
The shuttle should also be lubricated.
Warning!
For lubrication, use only special oil for sewing machines. Do not use grease or oil containing resin as this will cause machine failure.
Do not lubricate a fabric belt.
Dust and fibrous fabric particles accumulate over time under the needle plate 14 and on the conveyor 16, which can impede the feeding of the fabric and cause the machine to run slowly. Unscrew needle plate 14 (Fig. 58) and remove dirt.
Between the teeth of the conveyor, dirt is removed with a wooden stick.
(Fig. 59).Do not use a screwdriver for this, as this may damage the feed teeth and disrupt the fabric feed.
b) (Fig. 60)
In order to ensure smooth and uninterrupted operation shuttle machines should be periodically washed with a few drops of kerosene.
All shuttles are tempered to glass hardness and are sensitive to impact and pressure from hard objects (screwdriver, scissors, etc.)
V) Bearing cleaning
If the machine has not been used for a long time, it may run rough. The reason for this may be tarry oil, dust and dirt. In this case, a few drops of kerosene are placed into each bearing (Fig. 6668) and the machine is driven until the kerosene flows out of the bearings. Then clean the bearing from protruding dirt and lubricate it with one or two drops of sewing machine oil.
The foot drive should also be periodically cleaned of dirt as described in previous section, and lubricate the bearing areas marked with arrows (Fig. 61) with machine oil.
Correct and regular lubrication ensures smooth and trouble-free operation of the machine and increases service life.
23. Electric motor for sewing machine
If your sewing machine is equipped with an electric motor, then the speed of the sewing process can be adjusted using a foot starter. The starter allows you to sew slowly or at high speed. The electric motor requires almost no maintenance since its bearings are self-lubricating. Carbon brushes wear out after 650 hours of operation, at full engine load. During a slow sewing process, the temperature of the foot starter housing rises and, depending on the duration of operation, can heat up to 80° or even a maximum of 135° C. Heating of the foot starter is a normal process and does not have a negative effect on the electric motor and starter. If after a long period of work the belt has become stretched, then slightly unscrew the screw securing the motor on the arm of the sewing machine and move the bracket together with the motor downward enough so that the belt receives the required tension. The drive belt will be properly tensioned if the upper and lower parts of the belt between the motor and the sewing machine can be loosened. special effort bring them about 2 cm closer to each other. It is not recommended to tighten the belt too much, since too much tension will reduce the life of the belt and place significant stress on the motor bearings.
If you want to remove the machine from the machine cabinet, table, machine stand, then tip it back downwards. Using a screwdriver, unscrew both screws as indicated by the arrow in Fig. 62. Now you can free the machine from the hidden hinges.
When installing the machine, you must ensure that the machine goes all the way to the countersunk hinges. Be sure to secure both screws.
25. Troubleshooting Tips
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The machine is skipping stitches |
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Cause: |
Correction: |
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The car is not fueled correctly |
See section 11 |
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The needle is not inserted all the way |
Insert the needle all the way, see section 3 |
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Incorrect needle system |
Replace with system 705 needle or |
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Wrong position inserted |
Flat side of needle shaft |
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The needle number is not suitable for |
See section 4 |
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Blunt or bent needle |
Insert new needle, see section 3 |
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Insufficient presser foot pressure |
See section 16 |
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The upper thread breaks very often |
|
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Cause: |
Correction: |
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Hole in needle plate |
|
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High thread tension |
Loosen the thread tension, see |
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Weak and knobby thread |
Consume more good variety |
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The thread dropped from the spool and |
Wind the thread onto the spool and repeat |
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Wrong direction of rotation |
Correct direction of rotation |
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Uneven stitching |
|
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Cause: |
Correction: |
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Weak tension at top and bottom |
Follow all instructions regarding the “pass” |
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The clamping discs are oily and |
Clear details |
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The bobbin is bent |
Insert a new bobbin |
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Dry or dirty shuttle |
Clean the shuttle, see section 22b |
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The bobbin is inserted into the bobbin stake |
See section 9 |
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The bobbin thread is not wound evenly on |
Rewind the thread |
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When sewing, the fabric becomes crimped |
|
|
Correction: |
|
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Excessive tension on both threads |
Loosen the thread tension, see |
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Excessive presser foot pressure |
See section 16 |
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Needles break |
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Cause: |
Correction: |
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Bent needle |
Insert new needle |
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Needle too fine for fabric |
See section 4 |
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Improper fabric management |
See section 14 |
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The screw for securing the needle was |
Fasten the needle tightly, look |
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The presser foot is not enough |
Attach the presser foot, see section 17 |
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The needle plate is loose |
Tighten the screws, see fig. 58 |
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Noisy and heavy running of the machine |
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Cause: |
Correction: |
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Bad oil was used, which |
See section 22 b |
26. Removing the cover on the machine arm(Fig. 63)
Before removing the cover on the sleeve, switch lever 26 must be set forward, and pattern selection knob 23 must be set to 1. Only after this, use a screwdriver to unscrew the screws shown in Fig. 63. When installing the cover on the sleeve, you should pay attention to the fact that the shift lever 26 is necessarily engaged with the pin of the switching mechanism (Fig. 64)
27. Removing the Front Cover(Fig. 65)
The front cover 10 is removed with the left hand obliquely downwards. When installing, the front cover is placed in the lock first at the bottom and then at the top.
28. Lubricating the machine before putting it into operation
Before putting the machine into operation, carry out the following operations: pour a little kerosene into all lubrication points indicated by an arrow (Fig. 66-68). Then the machine is put into operation for a while. Kerosene that has leaked out in the lubricant areas is wiped off with a rag. After this, 2-3 drops of fresh sewing machine oil are poured onto all lubrication points. This method of washing and lubrication is also used when the machine has not been working for a long time and, as a result of oil thickening, heavy running occurs.
Lubrication points.
For lubrication, only high-quality “sewing machine oil” should be used!
Sleeve of the sewing machine “Superprogrammavtomatika” (cover removed)
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29Accessories |
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The following accessories are included with the machine: |
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Order no. |
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1 zigzag foot (by machine) |
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1 wide hem |
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1 straight stitch foot |
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1 edging foot with ruler |
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1 buttonhole foot |
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1 button sewing foot |
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1 mounting screw |
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4 bobbins |
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1 set of needles system 705 (10 pieces per box) |
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1 screwdriver large A 0.6x50 TGL 4873503 |
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1 small screwdriver A 0.4x40 TGL 4873503 |
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1 measuring tape |
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1 oiler |
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1 spool stand |
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1 seam ripper |
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1 incandescent lamp |
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1 instructions |
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1 accessory box |
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For home? The Veritas company offers customers many models. The company's product range also includes devices for beginners. Shuttles are most often used of the drive type. The devices are great for overlocking fabric.
In a standard set of machines, the user can find many feet. Models with belt shuttles are also available in stores. The average power is no more than 50 W. The devices differ greatly in embroidery speed. A high-quality model costs no more than 23 thousand rubles.
Choosing a quality model
How to choose a sewing machine for your home? If you select a device for a beginner, then the power should be no more than 55 W. It is more advisable to select a drive type shuttle with a protection system. The presser foot feeder must be located in the upper part of the body. Some models have a felt pad. Today they are in great demand. The device for pulling fabric deserves special attention. Typically it is used with a regulator.
Instructions for using the machine
First of all, you should choose the foot for the job. The presser foot pressure regulator should be in the up position. The embroidery speed is set by the regulator. The thread cutter must be open. You should also check the needle threader before use.
Description of the model VERITAS FL-4034
VERITAS FL-4034 is a good sewing machine that comes with a driven hook. IN in this case The needle threader is used with a regulator. If you believe customer reviews, the paws are used High Quality. If necessary, the stitch width can be adjusted. The bobbin for the sewing machine is made of aluminum. The manufacturer does not provide a lining above the shuttle. This model is perfect for beginner seamstresses. However, it is important to note that the thread cutter takes some getting used to. His stand is quite compact in size. There is a loop included for direct firmware.
If desired, you can clean the thread cutter yourself. Decorative stitches can be made with a regular bobbin. The machine in this series draws fabric very quickly. The embroidery speed is maximum 320 lines per minute. The machine does not have a free sleeve. Auto-winding device is used mechanical type. Spare parts for sewing machines can be purchased at service center. There is no bobbin for overlock stitches. You can buy this machine in the store for 27 thousand rubles.
Opinion about the device VERITAS FL-4050
VERITAS FL-4050 is a sewing machine for beginners, which has a high hook. In this case, the stand is made entirely of plastic. If you believe customer reviews, the needle threader is used with a high-quality screw. The bobbins on this model rarely twist. If necessary, the needle can be changed quickly. The winding system is of bobbin type. The stand in the device is made of polymer. In total, the model has three
The device is excellent for direct needle stitching. The fabric feeding mechanism is used with a rack. The embroidery speed of the machine is quite easy to adjust. The power of this model is 36 W. The device is compact in size and weighs extremely little. The stand is made entirely of plastic. The manufacturer does not provide a fabric tension regulator. If we talk about the disadvantages, it is important to mention the weak conveyor. If the machine is used incorrectly, the rack can be damaged. Nowadays the model costs about 24,600 rubles.
Customer reviews about VERITAS "Rubina"
Sewing machine"Veritas Rubina" is in great demand. Buyers primarily choose it for its excellent shuttle. In this case, it is used as a drive type. It has an anti-jam system. The model is suitable for short stitches. The thread threader is screw type. The control panel used is of high quality. The machine is often used for zigzag stitching of fabric. The feed mechanism is made with guides.
The sewing machine bobbin is made of aluminum. If you believe customer reviews, the tension regulator breaks very rarely. The embroidery speed is quite easy to adjust. Straight stitch feet are included in the set. The conveyor in this case is made of plastic. The tanker is standardly located in the upper part of the body. The model has a loop with a bobbin. This machine weighs only 5.8 kg. You can buy it in the store at a price of 25,300 rubles.
Characteristics of the VERITAS HZ-911X model
This Veritas sewing machine has many advantages. First of all, it is important to note that the model is great for beginners. Among the features of the modification, it is worth mentioning the interesting design. The shuttle is standardly used as a drive type. The stand under it is made of plastic. If customer reviews are to be believed, problems with the threader rarely occur. Its screw is of small diameter.
The cutter of a sewing machine is located in the upper part of the body. Straight stitching feet are included as standard. For the purpose of longitudinal stitching, the device is excellent. The lining under the loop is made of plastic. The embroidery speed is maximum 330 lines per minute. The stitch length of the model is very easy to adjust. A bobbin for overlock stitching is not provided in this case. The motor power of the machine is 56 W. Its energy consumption is insignificant. A brush is used to clean the model.
Feedback about the device VERITAS HZ-915X
VERITAS HZ-915X is a good sewing machine, which is produced with one regulator. The loop in this case is located near the shuttle. The cutter is used as a screw type. If you believe customer reviews, adjusting the embroidery speed is very easy. The paws in this case are made quite well. The motor power of the sewing machine is 45 W. The mechanism for fastening the fabric in the device is installed in the upper part of the body. The feed box is made with a rack. There is an overlock stitch foot in the standard set.
The model is excellent for zigzag sewing fabric, but it is important to note that it does not have a conveyor. The thread threader is made of plastic. A loop is used to sew double stitching. The threading mechanism is located under the shuttle. A stand has been made for it small height. Bobbins for straight stitching are included as standard. The needle can be changed quickly if necessary. This "Veritas" sewing machine is for sale at a price starting from 29 thousand rubles.
Customer reviews about VERITAS 8014
The Veritas 8014 sewing machine is very popular among beginners. First of all, it is praised for its high-quality threader. The cutter is standardly used with a screw. In total, the model has two straight stitch feet. The coil regulator is made of plastic. The model is perfect for overlocking work. However, it is important to remember that it does not have a transporter. The standard set includes a short-length rail.
For the purpose of stitching leather there is a special bobbin. The feeder is located behind the shuttle. The embroidery speed is maximum 380 lines per minute. A directional seam foot is provided. The lining included is of a polymer type. You can buy this sewing machine at a price starting from RUB 23,600.
Features of the VERITAS OS-2016 model
This Veritas sewing machine is manufactured with a driven shuttle. The cutter on this model is located above the stand. In this case, coils are used with caps. This sewing machine weighs only 6.5 kg. The set includes bobbins for direct stitching of fabric. It is also important to note that the model is ideal for overlocking work. The needle in the holder can be changed without problems. A high-quality transporter deserves special attention. The rail for it is chosen to be of short length. If necessary, the cutter can be quickly retrieved. The foot is made of plastic. There are bobbins for overcasting stitching.
The device also comes with a set of needles. The shuttle regulator is of high quality. The winding system is of a mechanical type. The gasket in this case is located under the pillar. The maximum embroidery speed is 420 lines per minute. The bobbins are attached above the holder. The guides are installed under the shuttle. The model is great for sewing zippers. Also, a sewing machine of this series is recommended for working with leather. Nowadays you can buy a model at a price of 33 thousand rubles.
What they say about the VERITAS OS-2024 device
VERITAS OS-2024 is a sewing machine for beginners, which is produced with two spools. Her caps are used closed type. If you believe the reviews, the model’s embroidery speed is at high level. There is a loop for direct stitching. If necessary, it is possible to do overlock work. The guides of the model are made of plastic.
The needle holder is used with a small diameter. The threader is located under the shuttle as standard. For longitudinal stitching, the model is used quite often. The feed mechanism is made with a screw. The motor power is 45 W. The stitching foot is made of polymer. The minimum stitch width is 4 millimeters. Spare parts for sewing machines can be purchased at a service center. The described model costs approximately 27,200 rubles.
This is a machine with a complex zigzag stitch with decorative stitches, a tabletop design with an electric drive. The basic design of the machine repeats the sewing machine described above "Veritas"-8014/35.
Let's look at some malfunctions and related devices during disassembly and reassembly.
Malfunction: the copy lever does not return to its original position. The finger for switching stitch types is broken.
Remove the zigzag block.
- Using a pulling technique, remove the locking clips from the plastic pins of the front trim strip.
- Loosen the screw on the contact tube of the program switch knob and remove both knobs.
- Unscrew the two axle screws on the front and rear walls.
- Unscrew two nuts on the right and one screw on the left, remove the needle bar frame, and remove the zigzag block.
Remove the copy lever block from the zigzag block. Remove the cylindrical return spring with a diameter of 3 mm and a length of 5 mm from the copier lever. Place a thin screwdriver blade under the lever and slightly bend it away from the frame, lubricate it with I20A oil. Install the coil return spring. Using a felt grinding wheel, grind the contact surfaces of the teeth of both tracing levers. In place of the broken pin (Fig. 150) in the stitch type switch, cut a 2.6 mm wide, 2 mm deep slot and install a metal rod 4 with great wear resistance (for example, a handle from a drill with a diameter of 2.5 mm).
Rice. 150.
(machine “Veritas”-8014/43 class):
Electric weld on both sides (2mm stainless steel electrodes). Finger 4 must be at an angle of 90° to the straight line of the base 5 and be in the plane of the lever-plate 1 . The finger must be sanded on a wheel; it must have a smooth mirror surface.
Place the copier block in place (in the zigzag block).
Frame swing axis (end 1 ) ( ) insert into the frame hole 6 from the back ( ), then pass the axle into the frame hole 5 zigzag block, then into the hole in the rear side of the pusher 4 switch finger; then the axle passes into the hole in the front side of the frame of the copy lever block 2 , then into the hole in the front side of the shift finger pusher 1 .
Fig. 151.
Rice. 152.
(Veritas machine - 8014-43 class):
Place in ring grooves 3 And 7 lock washers. Tighten the locking screw on the frame 5 zigzag block on the bottom side (it stops the axis 8 swing of the frame of the copy lever block). Replace the needle driver drive rod on the zigzag. It is attached with one axle screw to the lower hole of the shift finger pusher.
To check the operation of the copy lever block, you need to press the drive rod against the block and switch the stitch type selection knob. The unit should work fine. When checking, it may be that the follower arms (there are two of them on the zigzag block) do not align with the corresponding track on the plastic drums.
There are two ways to correct the situation:
A) shift the swing axis of the copier block frame. To do this, loosen the axle locking screw (it’s at the bottom) and move the axle to one side or the other (backward or forward);
b) bend the shift finger 4 ( ) one way or the other. Moreover, bend your finger a little. Pay attention to its position when switched on relative to the walls of the groove. The finger must be positioned strictly parallel to the walls of the groove, otherwise it will jam when switching, and this is clearly unacceptable.
When installing the needle bar drive rod during zigzag, place the washer according to Figure 153.
Fig. 153.
(Veritas machine - 8014-43 class):
Before installing the zigzag unit on the machine, install the control knobs. Place the stitch type switch forward and set the stitch type switch knob to mark 4. Then the copy lever will move to the fourth track of the front plastic drum, and the needle will sew a straight stitch.
Place the program switch knob big hole up in the sleeve. When switching from one track to another, the copy lever rises up to a height of up to 2 mm, then moves horizontally to a distance equal to the thickness of the track, and lowers from a height of 2 mm to a new track, i.e. when switching, the copy lever makes three movements: up - horizontally - down. And since all these movements are performed in a fraction of a second, it seems that the lever is jumping. If it does not do them, it will catch on the protrusion on the adjacent plastic disk and (or) will not switch the stitch or will break.
If, when switching, the copy lever moves smoothly, without sharp vertical oscillations, then it is at the point 7 (see fig. 148) no traction contact 6 with adjusting screw 1 - a gap has formed. It can be eliminated like this. Release the locknut 4 and tighten the adjusting screw 1 , while remembering that the copying levers should put minimal pressure on the tracks of the plastic drums. After tightening the locknut 4 check whether the needle parameters in the slot of the needle plate and on the shuttle are not violated. When switching to the first track (front drum - large zigzag), check whether the copy lever fits easily and without distortion into the track. If the lever feels tight, file the wall of the zigzag block frame with a flat, simple file. There should be no interference throughout the entire amplitude of travel of the frame with copier levers. If there are any, remove them by cutting or adjusting them. Interference can be either on the zigzag block frame, or on internal surfaces machine sleeves.
Reminder! If, while the machine is running, the follower arm on its track does not touch the plastic drum, loosen the lock nut 4 (see fig. 148) and tighten the adjusting screw 1 , tighten the locknut.
If there is a knocking noise in the car due to a large gap in the gearing (main shaft - zigzag block), you need to loosen the screws 4 And 3 ( ), turn the dial 2 counterclockwise by 5-6° of the central angle. Then tighten the screw 4 and check ease of movement. If the knocking does not disappear or the car starts to move hard, readjust it. The absence of knocking and heavy movement is evidence of correct adjustment. Screw 3 clamp the wedge-shaped section, otherwise it will change its position and the gap will increase or decrease. If by turning the dial 2 The play in the gearing cannot be removed, replace the disk with foil spacers.
Rice. 154. Gap adjustment unit in the gearing of the zigzag block
(Veritas machine - 8014-43 class):
This machine is equipped with a complex upper thread tension regulator. It is relatively easy to disassemble it, but an ignorant person will not be able to assemble it correctly (without a diagram). Therefore in the figure A diagram of the regulator device is given. The names of the parts and their numbering are located in the sequence in which assembly should be carried out.
Rice. 155. Upper thread tension regulator (Veritas-8014-43):
Fault: no material supply. The rack (without moving) makes an oscillating movement up and down. Reason: the screw securing the rocker to the car came loose.
To eliminate the malfunction, remove the electric motor, friction screw, friction washer, and flywheel. Unscrew the three screws of the right end cover and remove it. The mechanism shown in the picture is now visible. .
Fig. 156.
(“Veritas”-8014-43):
Secure the screw 4 . Check the operation of the rack. Reassemble everything in reverse order.
Breakage of the boss on the sleeve, through which the centering pin passes and attaches the sleeve to the frame.
Repair comes down to operations:
- Remove the sleeve from the platform.
- Place the broken part of the tide on the epoxy glue.
- Make a bracket for the broken part of the tide and place it on two screws.
- Make a steel beam with a cross-section of size L = 30 mm (square with a side of 15 mm).
- Place the steel beam close to the tide.
- Use a 35xM8 screw to attach the sleeve to the frame. The screw must pass through the tide and the steel beam by 12 mm.
- Fill this repair assembly with universal epoxy adhesive.
- Remove the section of the partition in the lid that fits the repair unit.
When longitudinal play in the main shaft appears, which happens when both screws on the main bearing limit ring are loosened, it is necessary to move the main shaft towards the flywheel, move the limit ring to the left, close to the main bearing, and tighten both locking screws on the limit ring.
Good luck with the renovation!
All the best, writeto © 2010
In photo 1, sewing machine Veritas 8014/2.
Photo 1.
In photo 2, The numbers show the details of the machine:
Before setting up the machine, get acquainted with the machine’s components, since my names of the components do not correspond to the passport data of this machine.
- Platform.
On the platform are:
- Needle plate.
- Access cover to the bobbin case.
- Switch, height of the conveyor block, relative to the top, needle plate.
- The place where the class of this machine is written.
- The Sleeve is attached to platform No. 1.
On the sleeve are:
- Stitch length regulator.
- Regulator, zigzag width.
- Regulator, stitch selection.
- Tension regulator, upper thread.
- Front cover.
- Top cover.
- Flywheel.
- Clutch screw.
Photo 2.
In photo 3, inscription on the bend of the sleeve.
Photo 3.
In photo 4, The top cover has been removed.
The entire mechanism is divided into five sections:
- Main shaft drive mechanism.
- Transmission mechanisms are at the bottom of the platform.
- The zigzag mechanism is divided into two sections:
- Needle switching mechanism:
- to the left, relative to the center of the paw.
- in the center of the paw.
- to the right of the center of the paw.
- Zigzag mechanism.
- Crank mechanism.
- Front part.
Photo 4.
Main shaft drive mechanism.
Malfunctions of this unit, found on different machines and ways to eliminate them:
- On screw No. 3, the grooves for a screwdriver are worn out- such a screw needs to be drilled out with a thin drill.
- Screw No. 3 is turned out, but screw No. 2 (clutch screw) does not turn out - Insert a non-ferrous metal rod into hole No. 3 (as deep as possible), and hit not at the end, but across the rod, to unscrew the clutch screw! The main thing is not to damage the thread!
- After lubrication and proper assembly, when sewing thick material, the flywheel slips - It's the mustache that's worn out! It is necessary to fuse 1 - 2 mm of tin onto the tops of the "antennae". This washer will work for another 1-3 years! Then the surfacing operation can be repeated.
- Thread is wound between the flywheel and the hub- The thread needs to be cut off - with a piece of debris hacksaw blade on metal and pull it out with pliers. Only after this can you try to unscrew the clutch screw as described in point No. 2.
In photo 5, Friction screw.
The clutch screw is the screw that presses the flywheel to the largest diameter of the shaped bushing. On which the flywheel either rotates - independently, or rotates in place with a figured bushing
- Flywheel.
- Clutch screw.
- Limit screw, clutch screw.
Before unscrewing, it is necessary to loosen the Friction Screw No. 2 by 3 - 4 turns, screw No. 3! And only after this can you unscrew the large screw No. 2 completely.
Photo 5.
In photo 6, The clutch screw is unscrewed, there is a washer under it.
- Remove the washer!
- Pull off the bushing - (put on the main shaft and pinned) - the flywheel.
- Remove old grease from the surface of the bushing - by wiping the outer surface - the bushing - sandpaper.
- On the surface of the bushing and inside the bushing - 1 - 2 drops of oil And 18 A. Sewing machine oil!
If you put the antennae at the bottom when assembling the washer, the car will slip!
If, after assembling this assembly, you have no place to screw in a small screw, this is not a problem. Take it apart again and rotate the ring with the “ears” 180 degrees. I can do this too, every once in a while.
Photo 6.
In photo 7, washer with "ears" and "antennae".
Photo 7.
Transmission mechanisms are at the bottom of the platform.
In photo 8, movement transmission mechanism at the bottom of the platform.
The numbers show the details of this mechanism:
- The right bushing is the main shaft.
All sewing machine bushings are plain bearings!
- Main shaft.
The main shaft, on all machines, transmits rotational motion to the crank!
- Eccentric on the main shaft.
Main shaft eccentric - converts rotational movements into oscillatory ones!
- The upper part is a rod with a fork.
Traction with fork - transmits oscillatory movements, to the bottom of the platform, to advance the material - with a conveyor block.
- Head - rods with a clamp.
Rod with clamp - transmits oscillatory movements, to the bottom of the platform, to lift and lower the material - with a conveyor block.
- Belt with staples.
Belt with staples - transmits rotational movements- to the shuttle.
Eccentric Bushing Setting:
Happens to everyone sewing machines, due to vibration, and lack of lubrication, the fastening screws Eccentric bushing, turn away. It starts like this:
- While sewing, thin material tightens.
- Then it stops promoting. The needle is marking time.
- Sometimes the stitch length is 4 mm, sometimes 1 mm.
Examination:
By rotating the flywheel, we lower the needle bar rod to the lowest point. In this case, the conveyor block should also fall below the needle plate to the lowest point.
Preparing for setup:
- Raise your paw.
- Remove the needle.
- Remove material.
- Pull out the upper thread.
- Lever - regulator - stitch length, put in position: maximum away from you.
- Turning the flywheel with your hand towards you, we monitor the actions of the needle and the conveyor block.
- By rotating the flywheel, we raise the needle bar rod to the highest point. At the same time, the conveyor block should also rise above the needle plate to the highest point. If this does not happen then:
Setting:
- We further loosen the screws, fastenings, and eccentric bushing.
- By rotating the flywheel, we raise the needle bar rod to the highest point.
- Keep the flywheel from turning! We rotate the eccentric bushing in the fork around the main crankshaft. So that the top of the teeth, the conveyor block, rises above the needle plate, to its highest position. When a little more and they begin to descend.
- In this position, tighten the fastening screws onEccentric bushing.
In practice this is done like this:
- One screw, unscrew completely.
- Instead of this screw, screw in a pin, or a longer screw.
- And use this screw as a lever to turn eccentric bushing, around the axis, the main crankshaft.
- As soon as you set it up, tighten the half-unscrewed screw!
- Turn the flywheel and replace the pin we screwed in with a screw!
Examination:
By rotating the flywheel, we raise the needle bar rod to the highest point. At the same time, the conveyor block should also rise above the needle plate to the highest point.
Photo 8.
Zigzag mechanism.
The needle switching mechanism consists of:
- Shift knob - needle position - relative to the center of the hole in the needle plate.
- Cam.
- Cam lock.
- Shaft - axis, shift knobs No. 1.
- The cam is a prototype of a copying disk.
- Copier of the copy disk.
Principle of operation:
By turning the needle position switching knob No. 1 to the right or left, the shaft or axis No. 4 rotates. On this axis under No. 2 there is a cam, its position is fixed by lock No. 3. That is, Copier No. 6 reads the position of cam No. 5 (lowering or rising) transmits movement to the needle bar frame. (top of the needle bar frame, shown in photo 13 ). At each position of cam No. 5, the needle bar takes a new position.
In photo 9, Needle switching mechanism.
See photo 35.
Photo 9.
On photo 9-1, knob for switching the position of the needle relative to the needle plate. The handle is now set to L-1.
Photo 9-1.
On photo 9-2, the needle is on the left, relative to the center, of the needle plate.
Photo 9-2
On photo 9-3, handle in position M - 2.
Photo 9-3.
On photo 9-4, The needle corresponds to the axis of the hole in the needle plate.
Photo 9-4.
On photo 9-5, handle in position R - 3.
Photo 9-5.
On photo 9-6, the needle goes down and up in the extreme right position.
Photo 9-6.
In photo 9-7, - “Needle switching handle”, in position M - 4.
On photo 9-8, in positions M - 2 and R - 4, the needle is again in the middle of the needle hole.
Photo 9-8.
Zigzag mechanism.
In photo 10, zigzag mechanism.
- Zigzag width handle.
- Axis - on which are located:
- Rod with clamp.
- Video clip.
- Rusk.
- Rusk.
- Fork with clamp.
- Rod connecting the zigzag block to the needle bar frame.
- Worm wheel.
- Main shaft.
Photo 10.
In photo 11, zigzag mechanism.
- Zigzag width handle axis.
- Rod - connects the handle to the zigzag frame.
- Zigzag frame cheek.
- The place where the cracker moves.
Photo 11.
In photo 12, zigzag mechanism.
- Worm.
- Worm wheel.
- Eccentric - worm wheel.
- Frame - zigzag.
- Cheek.
- Video clip.
- Earring - connects the zigzag width handle to the axis of the cracker.
- Fork with clamp.
- Rod - connects the handle to the zigzag frame.
Principle of operation:
When switching the handle - the width of the zigzag, pull No. 9 through the earring No. 7, lowers the cracker.
When the main shaft rotates, Worm No. 1 rotates. The worm transmits rotational motion to eccentric No. 3. The eccentric converts rotational motion into translational motion. Transferring this movement to the Zigzag Frame. The lower part of the frame is like “cheeks” between which the eccentric rotates. When touched by the protrusions of the eccentric - the cheeks - the frame swings.
The lower the cracker, the wider the zigzag width. The closer to the cheeks, the greater the amplitude of movement, from side to side. This movement is transmitted through fork No. 8, mounted on roller No. 6, to the needle bar frame.
Photo 12.
Crank mechanism.
In photo 13, crank mechanism.
- Connecting rod - connects the zigzag block to the needle bar frame.
- Needle bar frame - top view.
- Crank - left end, main shaft.
- Connecting earring - thread puller.
- Thread take-up support bracket.
- Thread take-up.
- The groove in which the Thread Take-up moves.
All screws on the crank must be tightened! And into the holes of the parts, a drop of oil. This mechanism never breaks!
Photo 13.
In photo 14, Front part, with open lid.
Photo 14.
Front mechanism.
In photo 15, front mechanism.
- Needle bar frame.
- Clamp with needle bar screw.
- Fastening screw - lower needle bar bushing.
- Rod - needle bar.
- Needle holder.
- Needle.
- Paw.
- Foot fastening screw.
- The rod is the legs.
- Lower bushing, rod-legs.
- The lever for raising and lowering the rod is the paws.
- Clamp with rod screw - claws.
- Pressure spring - pressing on the clamp of the foot rod.
- Pressure bracket - presses when lifting lever No. 11 onto the rod - pusher RNVN.
- Rod - pusher, Upper Thread Tension Regulator.
Photo 15.
In photo 16, needle holder.
The arrow points to the screw that secures the needle. The splines on it are torn off and need to be replaced.
In photo 17, the mechanism of the bottom of the platform.
I divide it into two parts:
- Promotion of material,
- Shuttle rotations.
- Receiving mechanisms of movements:
- Raising and lowering the conveyor block.
- Promotion of material,
- Shuttle rotations.
photo 17.
Intermediate mechanisms of movement, bottom of the platform.
In photo 18, Intermediate movement mechanisms, bottom of the platform.
- Bottom link with fork.
- Bottom rod with clamp.
- Belt with staples.
A shaft is a rod that rotates 360 degrees. A rod rotated at a smaller angle is called a bracket. In our case, the rods have a cylindrical shape, that is, shafts. But they rotate at angles of no more than 180 degrees. That's why they are called: shaft - bracket.
- The shaft transmits rotational motion to the gears - the shuttle.
- Shaft - bracket, transmits movement from the conveyor block lifting lever - finger in photo 19.
- Nylon bracket.
- Screw securing the clamp - rod with fork.
- Clamp fastening screw - rods with clamp.
If your feed shoe hits the far side of the groove in the needle plate, then this setting is for you! See Photo 18-1.
Photo 18.
In photo 18-1, Malfunction: With a stitch length of 4 mm, the far part of the feed shoe hits the far part of the groove in the needle plate.
The procedure for the exhibition, conveyor block, for the promotion of material.
- With the needle plate installed, place the machine on the back of the sleeve.
- Set the stitch length dial to zero.
- Use the flywheel to lift the needle bar up. The conveyor block will also take the upper position.
- By photo 18, loosen the screw on the bracket № 9 . It's under a screwdriver.
- Rotate around the axis, shaft - bracket into which screw No. 9 is screwed, transmitting movement to the conveyor block to advance the material. So that the conveyor block stands in the middle of the grooves of the needle plate.
- In this situation, screw on bracket No. 9, tighten!
Examination:
- Stitch length regulator for maximum stitch length.
- Lower and raise the needle using the hand wheel.
- Move the reverse lever to the maximum amount.
If there are jams, loosen screw No. 9 and move the conveyor block back by 1 mm. The gap between the far grooves in the needle plate, when moving away from you, and the near grooves, when sewing toward you, should be the same!
Photo 18-1.
Receiving mechanisms of movements
In photo 19, shuttle mechanism.
The numbers show the details:
- The shaft transmits rotation to the shuttle gears.
- The shaft is a bracket that transmits movement to move the material through a conveyor block.
- Screw securing the left bushing, shaft No. 1.
- Protective casing - internal part.
- Protective casing - outer part.
The protective casing protects the gears from direct contact with threads and dust!
- Shuttle.
- Installation pin.
- Screw securing the mounting pin.
- The shaft is a bracket that transmits movement to move the material through a conveyor block.
- Bracket - the conveyor block is attached to it.
- Place of attachment of the conveyor block - bottom view.
- Conveyor block.
- The shaft is a bracket that transmits movement to raise and lower the conveyor block.
- Bracket screw - bracket shaft No. 13.
- Connecting rod - bracket Photo 18 No. 8, transmits movement from the lifting lever (on the platform) - finger.
- Finger.
- Bracket - a finger fits into it.
Lever photo 2 No. 4 has three positions:
- The left one - the conveyor block when sewing - is always located under the needle plate. (Darning; embroidery in a hoop).
- Vertical position - the conveyor block when sewing - the teeth protrude slightly above the surface of the needle plate - (Sewing silk fabrics).
- Right - Sewing all other types of fabric.
When sewing highly fleecy types of fabric, there is a need to raise the top of the teeth - the conveyor block - by 0.5 mm.
This is done like this:
- The needle bar is raised to the top (0) using the flywheel.
- Loosen screw No. 14.
- Bracket No. 10 - raise it by 0.5 mm - look at the teeth and the surface of the needle plate.
- In this position, tighten screw No. 14!
Photo 19.
In photo 20, view through the conveyor block, onto the shuttle.
- Conveyor block.
- Conveyor shoe fastening screw.
- Installation pin.
- Shuttle bobbin.
Photo 20.
Pictured 21 , view of the shuttle, from left to right.
- The seat is a conveyor block.
- Needle.
- Needle flat.
- Installation pin.
- Bobbin.
- Shuttle.
- The nylon gear is on the shuttle shaft.
- Shuttle shaft.
- Hole in the bobbin case.
Photo 21.
In photo 22, the moment the nose of the shuttle crosses the flat of the needle, in the straight stitch position.
Photo 22.
In photo 23, shuttle drive mechanism.
Details shown - shuttle block:
- Fastening screw - mounting pin.
- Installation pin.
- Restriction ring - installed on the shuttle shaft.
- The place where the gap is should be equal to (0) zero!
- Bushing - shuttle shaft.
- Shuttle.
- Restriction ring - mounted on the shaft shuttle drive.
- Shuttle shaft.
- The hole contains the fastening screw of the lower bushing - the shuttle shaft.
- The hole contains a fastening screw, left bushing - shuttle drive shaft.
- The left bushing is the shuttle drive shaft.
- Helical - vertical - gear, on the drive shaft, shuttle shaft.
- Horizontal- helical gear, on the shuttle shaft.
- Shuttle exhibition vertical:
Note!
Seamstresses often complain:
The machine skips stitches when sewing and needles break.
This is one of the settings to prevent these phenomena.
Examination!
Grab the shuttle and pull it up and down!
If you feel vertical movement, then this is the setting for your car! If you don’t feel it, then the problem is elsewhere. (but more on that later).
- Disconnect the electric drive. From the socket.
- Remove the machine from the box or table.
- Place on the back - sleeves.
- Take off outer casing from gears - the shuttle mechanism.
If gear number 12 moves to the left and to the right you need:
- Loosen the screws on spacer sleeve No. 7.
- Pressing on gear No. 12, press it into bushing No. 11.
- Screws on spacer sleeve No. 7 - tighten!
This will prevent premature wear of the gear teeth!
- On photo 23, screw No. 10 and bushing No. 11 are shown. Loosen the screw, fit the bushing to nylon gear No. 12 - on which the belt with brackets - with a gap of 0.1 mm. And move No. 7 to the bushing.
0.1 mm - this is if you pull the shaft to the left and to the right - there is a feeling of shift, but it is not visible to the eye!
- Loosen the screws on spacer sleeve No. 3.
- By rotating the flywheel, we lower the needle inserted into the needle bar to the lower zero point. Bottom (0).
- We continue to rotate the flywheel - watch the needle rise slowly and the nose of the shuttle rotate.
As soon as the nose of the shuttle crosses the vertical axis of the needle, stop rotating the flywheel!
The gap between the surface of the flat of the needle and the plane of the nose of the shuttle should be in the range of 0.1 - 0.13 mm.
- The nose of the shuttle is raised by a gap of 0.1 - 0.13 mm. (Knocking the shuttle shaft up!)
- Distance washer No. 3 - lift and press it against bushing No. 4 - tighten at least one screw.
- After turning the flywheel - Tighten and tighten both screws
Examination!
The gap between the surface of the needle flat and the plane of the shuttle nose should be in the range of 0.1 - 0.13 mm. There will be less needle breakage! There will be more - skipping a stitch is guaranteed!
Make adjustments using needle No. 100.
If thick materials are sewn on the machine - and needles No. 120 or No. 130 are installed on these numbers - you will need to re-adjust the height of the shuttle again, lowering it to the bottom. Since the gap on these needles will be zero. And the breakage of the needles will lead to a blunt nose of the shuttle.
Photo 23.
In photo 24, shuttle details.
- Bobbin.
- The seat is the installation pin.
- The tip of the shuttle nose.
- Hole in the bobbin case.
- Pressure - restrictive - overhead plate.
- Plate - "Dovetail".
- Bobbin.
- Shuttle body.
- The lower part is the shuttle.
- Fastening screw - shuttle to the shuttle shaft.
When replacing the shuttle, these screws are loosened, the shuttle is removed to the top and a new one is installed! See the provisions - exhibitions, in photos No. 37 and 38.
- The inner hole is the shuttle. It's called a seat.
Photo 24.
In photo 25, the shuttle shown in the books is depicted, it consists of:
- Spring screw, bobbin case.
- Second screw, bobbin case springs.
- Spring, bobbin case.
- Latch, bobbin case.
- Landing axis, bobbin case, in the bobbin case.
- A seat in the bobbin case for the installation pin.
- Bobbin belt.
- Technological holes.
- Thread fuse screw.
- Thread fuse. - I call the plate “Dovetail”.
- Seat, bobbin belt.
- Seat for thread fuse. "Dovetail".
- Cogs, 3 of them, fastening the shuttle to the shuttle shaft.
- Screws, 3 of them, fastening the cover plate.
- Overlay plate.
- Large technological hole in the shuttle.
- Shuttle nose.
- Thread gripper slot in the bobbin belt.
- Installation pin. Photo 6.
- Screw securing the mounting pin to the machine body.
- Plate body of the mounting pin.
- Half-hole, for fixing, latch, bobbin case.
- Bobbin thread guide.
- Bobbin. Spool.
- Hole for removing the lower thread from the cap. But the machine works well without threading it.
- Pin axis, bobbin case latches.
- Cam, latching handles.
- Cover plate, bobbin case.
- Locking screw, cover plate. Designed to limit the stroke of the overhead plate.
- Lock, cover plate.
- Tongue, overlay plate.
- Handle - latch.
- The spring against which the tongue rests on the cover plate.
- A slot for a lock in the bobbin case.
- The seat of the spring is in the bobbin case.
- Restrictive hole for the cam, latching handles.
Photo 25.
In photo 26, The arrow shows the ("deplorable") place, the tip - the nose of the shuttle.
This is what leads to breakage of needles - dulling of the shuttle nose.
Photo 26.
In photo 27, disassembled shuttle.
- Pressure plate.
- Shuttle body.
- Dovetail. Or a thread guide plate.
Photo 27.
In photo 28, Sharpening of the nose and shuttle is shown for all machines with this type of shuttle.
Dull nose, these are skipped stitches! Sharpening from the top and outside is not allowed! Otherwise, the shuttle will have to be thrown away! The red lines show the plane that needs to be sharpened! The nose of the shuttle should be as sharp as the point of a needle!
Photo 28.
In photo 29, thread guide plate, shuttle. - " Dovetail".
The needle broke - a notch. The shuttle is jammed - a notch.
Red dashes show the places where notches are formed. If there is at least one notch on this edge, the machine will tear the upper thread, even when sewing thin fabric.
Elimination method.
If even one notch appears, it is necessary to remove a layer of metal along the entire length of this rib, to the depth of the notch. Then go through it with polishing sandpaper, or even better, polish it on a felt wheel.
At the location where the nick appears, an experienced mechanic will immediately tell what happened to the machine. If you experience frequent thread breaks, look here!
Photo 29.
In photo 30, lowering needle in position - Needle point, flush with an imaginary plane, "Dovetail"
So I check that the shuttle is not rotated relative to the descending needle.
Photo 30.
In photo 31, The needle has dropped to the lower point zero (0).
Note!
Slowly rotate the flywheel towards you. The needle has dropped to the lower point zero (0). The top of the needle hole is flush with the bottom edge of the bobbin.
We can say that the flat of the needle is not parallel to the plane of the shuttle. This arrangement of the needle will lead to rapid wear of the nose and shuttle.
You need to do the following:
- Check the needle. For parallelism of the slot on the ampoule, with a flat on the rod.
- Not parallel - replace the needle.
- Rotate the needle bar, with the needle inserted, around its axis. So that the flat of the needle is parallel to the plane of the shuttle. And at the same time, the top of the needle hole was flush with the bottom edge of the bobbin. Loosening the screw No. 2 Photo 15.
Photo 31.
In photo 32, the intersection of the tip of the shuttle nose and the vertical axis of the needle.
- By slowly rotating the handwheel, the needle, being in the straight stitch position, rose by 1.5 - 1.8 mm.
- And the flat of the needle intersected with the nose of the shuttle. This should happen strictly in the middle of the flat, the needle. (In position - straight stitch).
Photo 32.
On photo 33 the same as on photo 32, only side view.
The main goal when exhibiting the shuttle:
- The gap between the flat of the needle and the nose of the shuttle should be 0.1 mm.
- The gap between the bobbin case and the installation pin is 0.8 -1.5 mm.
- The top of the spout of the installation pin should be 1 mm higher than the bobbin case.
The installation pin should fit into the groove of the bobbin case, half the depth of the groove. Loosening the screw No. 8 Photo 19, You can adjust the installation pin!
Photo 33.
In photo 34, the needle at the exit is flush with the surface of the shuttle.
By turning the flywheel, we monitor the exit of the needle from the surface of the shuttle.
- The angle of the plate is dovetail and the needle point is flush with the surface of the shuttle.
- The correct position is when the first plate fastening screw is located behind the needle - "dovetail". (red arrow points to the screw).
Photo 34.
The needle alignment, along the edges of the hole, in the needle plate.
See also the description before photo 9.
In photo 35, hole in the needle plate. And three needle positions:
- The needle is on the left prick.
- Needle in the center.
- The needle is on the right prick.
Photo 35.
In photo 36, the trajectories are shown - the intersection of the nose of the shuttle, the flats of the needle - in three positions.
Photo 36,
In photo 37, needle on the left prick.
- Shuttle nose.
- Installation pin.
- Hole in the needle.
Photo 37.
Photo 38. needle on the right prick.
The numbers show the main details in this setting:
- Shuttle nose.
- Installation pin.
- Hole in the needle.
- Green color shows the vertical axis of the needle.
The tip of the shuttle nose - when exhibiting the shuttle - must be strictly on this vertical axis!
Photo 38.
In photo 39, faults are shown.
If at least one of the following faults is detected, adjustment is required:
- The gap between the mounting pin and the bobbin case is small! In photo 31 is the norm!
The absence of a gap means looping of the upper thread from the bottom - jamming of the shuttle!
- There is a large gap between the needle and the nose of the shuttle! Photo 20!
A large gap is a skipped stitch! In this form, you need to set the height of the shuttle shaft relative to the flat of the needle!
- Dull nose - shuttle! See photo 24!
Dull nose - the nose needs sharpening! Skipped stitches mean broken needles!
- The needle bar is not installed correctly! Photo 16 No. 11
- Needle - marriage!
- The needle bar must be lowered to the intersection of the flat and the nose!
- Needle bar with needle, rotate around its axis!
Conclusion!
Considering the totality of such a number of malfunctions in photo 36-1, it can be assumed that the belt with brackets is not installed correctly on the lower plastic drum.
Photo 39.
Pictured 40 The arrow points to the RNVN fastening screw.
Photo 40.
In photo 41, The regulator was removed from the machine.
Loosen this screw 1 - 3 half turns. you can remove the RNVN axle.
Photo 41.
In photo 42, RNVN disassembled.
Here is a list of parts, from left to right:
- Base.
- An axial rod is inserted into the base.
- On the rod, a compensation spring.
- A pusher rod is inserted inside. One edge is flattened. L -27 mm. Diameter 1.8 - 2 mm.
The pusher rod, inside the axial rod, should move easily, without jamming.
- The axial rod is inserted into the base.
In the place where a slot is made on the base, there is a compensation spring. And then it turns at such an angle that the bottom of the compensation spring does not reach the right stop - 0.5 mm. In this position I clamped the screw onto the base.
- Now I put a small washer No. 5 on the axle.
A small washer prevents the spring coil from jumping out of the base. When making the base, it is advisable to make the internal diameter not 10.5 but 11.5 mm. So that the compensating spring is not so cramped.
- Now, we put the first plate on the axial rod No. 6.
- Separating washer so that you can sew on the machine with two threads No. 7.
- The second plate, with the curved part, to the separating washer No. 8.
- Washer with jumper No. 9. Curved jumper, to the side, of the pressure nut. Very often, it is installed backwards to front.
- Now the large washer No. 10. With a rectangular slot, towards the top.
On photo 42, the part that is shown facing up is placed on the axial rod, facing the curved part of the washer with the jumper. On photo 42 Puck No. 10 is upside down.
- The wide end of the spring goes to the cylindrical washer, the bent end of the spring goes into the slot of the axial rod. tighten the nut.
Photo 42.
On photo 43, axial rod - axis. This is a sketch for a turner. It breaks sometimes. After turning, heat treatment is necessary, since the thread is abrasive and will very quickly fray the axis.
Photo 43.
On photo 44, again a sketch for a turner. This is the foundation. The part that is inserted into the body of the machine.
Photo 44.
Let's move on to adjusting thread tension:
First of all, let's choose bobbins !
In photo 45, The bobbin is inserted into the cap. A needle plate is placed on top.
The height of the bobbin corresponds to the edges of the bobbin case.
Photo 45.
On photo 46, shows how to do it correctly install the bobbin into the cap.
Here's what you need to pay attention to:
- A groove in the bobbin case for the thread to enter the cap. Must not have sharp edges!
- Cap spring. Should not have any wear on the inside!
- The adjusting screw, when tightened, clamps the thread more tightly. At the spring, when the screw is unscrewed, the pressure weakens.
We twist it clockwise, we twist it counterclockwise! And there should be no sharp slots or burrs on the screw! We cut it with a file.
- Seat, bobbins. There should be no dust or fuzz in it!
- Bobbin. Must match the size of the bobbin case! Free to spin!
- A thread.
Photo 46.
On photo 47, shows how adjust, spring screw, on cap:
- We take it by the thread, the cap with the bobbin hangs. Photo 47. The thread does not pull out. If it pulls out, tighten the screw 1 - 2 turns.
The bobbin case, with the bobbin correctly installed, should hang on this thread!
- Not enough - Tighten the screw on the bobbin case another 0.5 turns, clockwise.
- Let's take the thread for a test. Few?
- Another 0.5 turn, twist and try.
Photo 47.
In photo 48, bobbin case, after shaking.
- That's it, it's hanging!
- Now, lightly shake the bobbin case.
The threads should move from 5 to 15 cm, depending on the strength of shaking. But the bobbin case should hang in the air again. And the thread from it should not unwind spontaneously!
Photo 48.
Let's move on to Upper thread adjustment:
The guideline for adjustment is the thread tension in the stitch!
When changing the thickness of the thread between the plates, tighten the nut; if the thread is thinner, unscrew it. If the thread is pressed too hard, it will break.
If the thread is thicker, unscrew it. Imagine that one full turn of the nut is the face of a watch.
So, having made a mark on the nut with a felt-tip pen, you need to tighten it for 15 minutes, a little for another 15 minutes, a lot - loosen for 7.5 minutes. Then at - 3.25, etc. If knots are visible at the top, in the stitching, the upper thread is too tight. If we lift the material, we will see the bottom thread. If it is free and not drawn into the needle punctures, this means that the upper thread is weakly clamped in the plates.
Example Photo 49:
The bobbin thread is not tensioned in the bobbin case. This photo suggests that the upper thread needs to be loosened. That is, unscrew the nut for 15 minutes. Flash it! Few? For another 15 minutes. Until a line appears like in photo 51.
Photo 49.
There are 50 in the photo, The upper thread, in the plates, is very weakened. The upper thread needs to be tightened. To do this, tighten the nut for 7.5 minutes! Few? For another 3.2 minutes. Until a line appears like in photo 51.
Photo 50.
In photo 51, Thread tension is adjusted correctly! But in order to see such a line, it is necessary to tear off the threads from the stitched piece of fabric. And try to slightly separate the top fabric from the bottom, like in photo 52.
Photo 51.
In photo 52, Thread tension is adjusted correctly! The interweaving of threads occurs strictly along the axis of the materials being sewn.
One of the legacies of the past Soviet era is the Veritas sewing machine, made in the GDR (Germany). Like other sewing equipment of the GDR, the models of these machines are quite reliable and durable. If you have such a sewing machine, do not rush to throw it away. Veritas sewing machines (not all models) have a double-fitting rotating hook used for industrial machines, and this is already a sign that the Veritas machine can perform high-quality stitching. An oscillating sewing hook, the same type as that of the Chaika sewing machine, is used only in inexpensive, economy-class models of modern sewing machines. Some models of Veritas sewing machines sometimes have an oscillating sewing shuttle, but most often, a rotating vertical shuttle is installed.
Repair of Veritas sewing machines is sometimes complicated by the lack of instructions and spare parts, since spare parts for sewing machine models dated 81-91. They just don't make them anymore. In addition, the GDR is long gone. Therefore, there is simply nowhere to buy them, except at the flea market. However, reviews from almost all owners of Veritas sewing machines are only positive. Therefore, if the machine needs repairs, try, maybe you can do a small repair of the Veritas sewing machine yourself.
1. Rotating hook of the Veritas sewing machine
Sewing machine Veritas is a compound zigzag machine, that is, it makes various types of stitches based on the zigzag stitch. The shuttle stroke is the same as that of an industrial machine of class 97 and rotates in a vertical plane, which increases the accuracy class of the needle and shuttle, but subject to good adjustment of the shuttle assembly.
Transmission from the main shaft to the lower shaft of the sewing machine is carried out using a woven nylon belt. This reduces noise when operating at high speeds.
The shuttle is mounted on a round axis and secured with screws. If you loosen them, the shuttle can be removed, which means it is convenient to adjust the gap between the needle and the nose of the shuttle.
Sometimes a broken thread gets into the shuttle, and then it stops and the machine jams. In this case, the only correct solution is to remove the shuttle from the axis. To do this, you need to tip the car on its side and right side, loosen the two screws securing the drive gear on which the belt is mounted, then remove the fixing plate. It holds the bobbin holder of the shuttle device. Now you can turn the shuttle and loosen the screws that secure it to the axis. After removing the shuttle, unscrew the three screws securing the locking plate, the nose of which faces the thread hook (the nose of the hook). After this, moisten the connection with solvent, and try to remove or rotate the hook bobbin holder. There are six slots on its belt that need to be cleaned. The slots must always be clean. Reassemble the shuttle in reverse order.
Attention! If you disassemble the shuttle improperly, you can break its locking ring that locks the bobbin holder. Be careful!
2. Veritas can be used to sew jeans and knitted fabrics
The "Veritas Rubina" sewing machine, in addition to excellent performance characteristics, also has a completely modern look, is equipped with an electric drive and can perform many different types of stitches. It is quite functional, that is, you just need to put in a special needle for denim fabrics and you can hem your jeans. And if you use a needle for sewing knitted fabrics, you can sew knitted clothes with high quality.
Veritas is a good household sewing machine, especially compared to older models of Soviet sewing machines. And even the old Veritas models, with a stand and a foot drive, can perfectly sew modern knitted fabrics. If you have a manual for your sewing machine, it will tell you in detail what fabrics can be sewn on Veritas and what sewing needles to use. How to select threads and needles, depending on the thickness of the fabric, threads and much more.
The Veritas sewing machine is equipped with a TUR-2 electric drive. This engine is of very good quality. Over the many years of using these drives in our practice, not a single one of them “burned out” or broke, and even the brushes never had to be changed. There are several engines that have "sat down", that is, when long work They lose power and speed, but they work!
The TUR-2 brand electric drive can operate for many years without requiring repair or replacement of brushes, even with intensive use of the sewing machine. But, like all electric motors for household sewing machines, it must work intermittently. About half an hour of continuous work and a 10-15 minute break. This is especially important not to forget when processing curtains with large footage.
When working for a long time without a break, a specific smell of burnt electrical wiring appears. This means it has overheated and needs cooling. Of course, the engine will not break down right away, but over time, due to frequent overheating, it will lose power and the machine will work slower.
Another detail in the Veritas sewing machine that you should pay attention to is the sewing pedal. The sewing pedal often breaks on the Veritas sewing machine. And not so much because of the unsuccessful design, but because of the careless attitude towards it. The pedal body is very fragile and the top part is attached to a small protrusion of the bottom part. Often this protrusion breaks upon impact or strong pressure and the pedal “opens up”.
You can fix this damage yourself if you restore this limiter. But first you need to disassemble the pedal. In order to disassemble the pedal, you need to pull out the metal rod connecting both parts of the pedal base. This bushing is secured with a screw in the lower recessed hole, which is usually sealed and therefore difficult to understand that there is a screw there.
And again, after self-repair, do not leave the pedal plugged in, since the pedal can be constantly in the on mode due to inept adjustment of the rheostat, overheat and cause big troubles.
4. Electric drive belt and main shaft timing belt
If the electric drive strap of your Veritas sewing machine is cracked or torn, you can certainly replace it yourself. To do this, loosen the fastening of the electric drive to the sewing machine. Next, move the drive towards you, the belt tension will loosen, and remove it. Replace the belt and tighten it.
The belt tension should be set so that when you press it with your finger, it bends slightly. If the belt is too tight (tightened), the sewing machine will make more noise and it will run rough.
A toothed belt is installed on almost any old household model of Veritas sewing machines. Thanks to this, the machine works noticeably quieter than the Chaika, but there is also a drawback. This belt tends to stretch and then the machine can be scrapped, since it is impossible to buy a new belt like this.
5. Veritas shuttle clearance parameters
If you decide to repair your Veritas sewing machine yourself (which is not recommended), you should learn how to adjust the position of the needle, since moving the needle forward causes it to break, and moving it toward the seamstress causes skipping. And the incorrect position of the needle in relation to the nose of the shuttle is the cause of almost all stitch defects in a sewing stitch.
First set the gap between the hook and the needle in the plane of rotation of the hook. This gap on the right zigzag stitch of the Veritas sewing machine should be in the range of 0.1-0.05 mm. You need to adjust by shifting the shuttle along the axis of its fastening. The shuttle is secured with two screws.
The distance between the shuttle and the needle, when it is in its lowest position, is determined by the central angle of rotation of the shuttle. The upward movement of the needle should begin no later than the moment when the nose of the shuttle and the needle form an angle of 45 degrees, and the straight line from the needle to the nose of the shuttle is 7 mm. At a smaller angle, there will be gaps on the right zigzag stitch, at a larger angle, the upper thread will loop and break.
The gap must be adjusted by turning the shuttle on the axis (shaft) with the screws securing it loosened. If the right zigzag stitch causes skipped stitches on knitted fabrics, you can increase the central angle of rotation to 50°. But at the same time, be sure to check whether the line at the bottom has deteriorated. If the stitch pattern at the bottom begins to get lost, and the top thread is clearly visible from below, reduce the central angle to a size that improves the stitching at the bottom.
The moment the shuttle nose meets the needle on the left zigzag injection. The distance between the lower edge of the spout and the upper edge of the eye is zero (pos. a), and on the right zigzag injection it is 2 mm. This parameter must be adjusted by shifting the needle bar vertically and turning the shuttle.
The master's opinion about which sewing machine is the best. Learn more about a used Rubin sewing machine and other old Veritas models.
The Veritas sewing machine with a foot drive can be equipped with an electric drive with a pedal. This is not difficult to do, since the machine has a standard mount for an electric drive. If you need to make repairs foot drive You can use the tips from this article.
The shuttle stroke of the Veritas double-fitting sewing machine is the same as that of industrial lockstitch machines. But, nevertheless, its device has its own characteristics. However, many of the settings for setting the interaction between the hook tip and the needle, posted in this article, are also suitable for the Veritas sewing machine.
Lubrication of the Veritas sewing machine, Veritas Rubina and other models of machines from this company requires a lot of attention. Carefully study the instructions, read where you need to lubricate the machine, or independently determine all the rubbing components of the sewing machine and regularly lubricate them with a small amount of oil. Excessive lubrication can only cause harm.
This model of industrial sewing machine, as well as the Veritas household sewing machine, was produced in the GDR. It is intended for sewing light and suit fabrics. For small sewing workshops and ateliers engaged in tailoring outerwear The machine is simply irreplaceable. The mechanism for advancing the foot together with the rail allows the machine to perform many specific operations, for example, fitting a sleeve when sewing into an armhole, etc.
Sewing machine repair will not be required for many years if you take care of the machine and take care of it. Periodically you should clean the shuttle compartment from frays and thread residues with a stiff glue brush and lubricate the machine.
