For full convenience of using your own garage, sometimes you need equipment for lifting heavy parts of the car. The best option The solution to this problem is a hydraulic crane. The unique structure allows you to rearrange small loads with little effort from the mechanic or car owner.
The hydraulic valve is made of durable metal and has a stable design. Main principle mechanism structure: stable support with low dead weight. This helps you lift loads of up to three tons with ease, but a maximum of two meters above the ground.
Garage crane is used for:
- removing the engine;
- lifting beams, bridges;
- movement of dimensional units.
The crane contains a hydraulic drive and operates through a system of communicating vessels. The method allows you to make the rise smooth.
Stationary
The stationary crane is installed in large car repair shops and is securely attached to monolithic foundation. The mechanism has a boom with a rotating system and is equipped manual drive. Allows you to work on only one vehicle at a time.
An essential plus stationary crane– high load capacity. It is provided by a monolithic support, which creates rigidity of the system.
Portable
Roll-up hydraulic crane Has wheels on the base. The support is provided by the lower metal beams, which results in loss of load capacity readings. It is better to choose a faucet with a massive triangular support. By design they are divided:
- on cast solid supports with limited boom reach, but good load capacity;
- telescopic or folding - they have an increased boom reach, but reduce the load capacity by several times.
Important! Folding units need to strictly follow the instructions for lifting the permitted load. The arrow cannot withstand and, if the permitted standards are not observed, it breaks off.
Main types of equipment
The average garage has a reduced square footage and requires careful selection of equipment. Before installation, it is recommended to carefully study the need for individual mechanisms, their types, pros and cons. A hydraulic valve is determined by two criteria.
By type of drive
There are also two subtypes of hydraulic drive:
- automated design with hydraulic cylinders;
- combined, with hydraulic cylinders and manual winches.
A significant drawback of the first is oil cylinders. They need frequent regular replacement, so this design is considered extremely unprofitable for constant use. The combined system will last longer. However, some of the work with winches will have to be taken on by mechanics.
According to the design of the support
Hydraulic cranes are divided into mobile and stationary, they can be folding and prefabricated cast (goose). For ordinary garages, it is more rational to choose a mobile structure with folding parts.
What properties should a garage lift have?
There are two main requirements: stability and load capacity. Secondary requirements are the ability to move, rotating support, low support beams, folding mechanism. The properties required by the lift are calculated solely from the individual characteristics of the room.
DIY crane assembly technology
If you have certain skills, assembling the mechanism yourself will not be difficult. To do this, it is important to draw up a preliminary design drawing, choose materials wisely and strictly follow the assembly instructions.
Schemes and drawings
Below are sample drawings of a hydraulic crane. You need to make accurate calculations yourself, based on the parameters of a particular garage.
Material selection
To build a garage lift yourself, it is recommended to first purchase all the required materials:
- 3 steel corners with parameters 7.5x7.5x0.8 centimeters.
- “Worm” gearbox, the minimum load capacity of which starts from 300 kilograms, and the additional indicator is 60 kilograms.
- A strong steel plate one centimeter thick. If you have an old metal cutting machine, you can take it from it, outside help you won't need it for this.
- About 10 matching bolts.
- 2 dense metal chains with a diameter of two to three centimeters. The crane is designed to work with very heavy materials - you should carefully monitor the quality of the metal.
- Hook.
- Steel cable with a diameter of 5 millimeters.
- 2 keys with different parameters in the shape of an asterisk.
Step-by-step construction instructions
The process of assembling and installing a homemade garage crane does not look complicated:
- steel corners must be installed on parallel walls;
- fasten the steel plate to them using M8 bolts;
- fix the “worm” gearbox on the plate;
- install the key bigger size on the drive shaft;
- drill a hole in a pre-designated place, insert a chain into it and close it into a ring;
- fix a smaller key on the output shaft of the gearbox;
- drill 2 more holes in the plate;
- pass the second chain through the holes, where one end is on a small key, and a hook is installed on the second.
Self-installation of the crane has a number of important advantages. For example, the cost homemade mechanism almost two times lower than purchased.
All motorists who like to sort out their car at their leisure will unanimously say that a garage crane is extremely necessary for repair work. Without it, it is very difficult to remove and replace the engine, or move other heavy components. Now it is possible to buy ready-made devices.
The market offers electromechanical, hydraulic lifting mechanisms. But it is also possible to make such a device with your own hands according to your size and personal preferences.
Making a structure, popularly called a “goose,” is quite simple. First, you should find a drawing on the Internet and adjust it to your dimensions. For the mechanism described below, we take a minimum of material to get an inexpensive but reliable assistant.
Materials and tools
Drawing of a crane for work in a garage.
To create the device you will need the following materials:
- pipe rectangular section 80 by 80, length 7 meters;
- pipe with a diameter of 89 mm, a length of 700 mm - 2 pieces;
- pipe with a diameter of 76 mm, length 900 mm;
- swivel wheels – 2 pieces;
- regular wheels - 2 pieces;
- wheels with brake – 2 pieces;
- metal plates 8 mm – 4 pieces;
- jack with a lifting capacity of 5 tons;
- chain, hook;
- M14 pin, 1000 mm long.
The following tools will be needed:
- Bulgarian;
- welding machine;
- drill;
- spanners.
Progress
Further work is carried out quite simply, the main thing is to have minimal familiarity with the principles of operation of the tools and welding machine.
Crane device diagram.
The installation process is as follows:
- Let's get acquainted with the drawing and find out all the main points.
- First you need to weld the butt part of the support; it will be the basis for the future crane.
He also welds units with wheels onto it. - We weld a vertical stand to the butt part.
The structural element We equip it with a spacer in the lower plane. - We mount a jack and a crane boom on a vertical stand.
The jack is secured with one side to the vertical support, and the other side to the boom. - A hook is welded to the end of the arrow, and chains are also stretched.
As you can see, there are no difficulties when installing the lift and it is quite possible to do it in your garage with your own hands.
Homemade lifting devices are indispensable tool for a garage where major car repairs are planned. With the help of such an auxiliary device, you can easily remove the car engine, lift the edge of the body, or even the entire car.
Easy-to-make homemade lifting mechanisms make work several times easier and faster not only in the garage, but also near the house. They are indispensable for construction and repair, moving construction waste, and unloading heavy loads.
Types of lifting mechanisms
Before you start assembling a garage faucet with your own hands, you should choose which mechanism will suit you best. Load lifting machines belong to a fairly important category of industrial and household equipment. They are designed to move various loads in a vertical or inclined direction. A useful feature for motorists is the ability to move a load suspended on a hook to the side, thereby freeing up space for work. When designing a car lift, it is advisable to supplement it with a similar option - this way you can expand the list of actions performed in the garage.
Purchasing a ready-made lift entails significant financial costs, so many garage owners are interested in the question of how to make such a mechanism themselves. First you need to understand what types of devices exist, how they differ from each other, and what functions they have. Classification is made according to various criteria: principle of operation, purpose, type of drive. Let's look at the most common types of lifting machines:
- Pulleys are manual mechanisms that use only the strength of human muscles to lift a load. The structure of the block is also known from school curriculum: It consists of a wheel with a recess around it, rotating around a fixed axis. A rope, rope or metal chain passes through the recess. The force required to lift weights decreases exponentially as the number of pulleys in the system increases.
- Jack - simple lever device, used to raise one side of the car. Jacks can be either manual or hydraulic, pneumatic or electric.
- A hoist is a manual or mechanized device consisting of a system of interconnected blocks. Depending on the number of individual wheels (pulleys), hoists are divided into two-, three-, four-pulley, etc. The maximum number of pulleys that such devices use is 12. An industrial type of hoist - a pulley block is often used to move cargo on ships.
In addition to standard lifting devices There are specialized installations:
- The telpher is an improved hoist, equipped electric drive. Thanks to this addition, the power and load capacity of the mechanism increases, and when placing the hoist on a horizontal I-beam it becomes possible to move cargo along the premises.
- The crane is a simple device that works on the principle of a lever. A hook is attached to one end of the lever for hanging a load, and a counterweight is attached to the opposite end. The height of lifting loads largely depends on the position of the mechanism itself, since the length of the lever stroke remains small. Using a crane, you can not only lift weights, but also move them along a trajectory described by the radius of the lever. Often the crane successfully replaces crane, but due to its large dimensions, its use in the garage is not practiced.
What characteristics should a garage lift have?
Since the device will be used in the rather cramped conditions of a standard garage, certain requirements are put forward for it. Firstly, it should not be too large - such a car lift, despite its high power, takes up a lot of space, which is very undesirable for such small area. Secondly, it is recommended to give preference to mechanisms with a small vertical stroke, otherwise you risk running into the ceiling.
The second requirement is carrying capacity. It is calculated based on the types of work for which the car lift is being developed. The dimensions of the mechanism also depend on the purpose. If a regular jack is suitable for regular wheel replacement, then for larger-scale work you will need a car lift with a platform, although for such important actions it is recommended to resort to the help of professional equipment.
Materials and tools
When constructing a garage lift with your own hands, you need to have in your arsenal not only drawings of the future device, but also arm yourself with a set of tools and high-quality, load-resistant materials. First of all you will need: 
- welding machine;
- grinder with cutting wheel for metal;
- bolts and nuts for fastening;
- steel pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm;
- steel angle or profiled pipe with a cross section of 35-40 mm;
- cable;
- homemade winch for a garage (you can also purchase it; the factory-produced version will be more reliable).
As the planned homemade garage winch becomes a reality, the list of components for it may change slightly, depending on your specific requirements for the mechanism.
Materials for the crane were mainly found in scrap metal. We only had to buy bearings, a winch, and order parts for the turning mechanism from a turner.
And I also had to pay the welder, since I myself welding work I can’t do it because of some vision problems.
In general, this crane cost 5,000 rubles, which cannot be compared with the amount of work that I managed to complete with its help, because the “cheapest” helper in our region costs 800 rubles per day.
I’ll immediately make a reservation that during operation, my faucet revealed some shortcomings, which I will point out and advise on how to correct them. So your faucet will be a little different from mine.
Let's start with the rotating mechanism
It consists of six parts that need to be ordered by a turner, and two bearings.
As you can see, there are no dimensions in the drawing. The fact is that you don’t have to follow the exact size, like mine. After all, we make the faucet from available material, and I cannot know what size channel or I-beam, or what kind of pipe you will have at hand.
A little more or a little less doesn’t matter in my design. And you will understand this from further instructions. And having generally estimated what materials and parts you have, determine what dimensions to take for the manufacture of the rotating mechanism.
The mechanism has two bearings. At the top, between the housing and the base, there is a support bearing. Below, again between the housing and the base, there is a simple radial bearing.
Or rather, the housing should be mounted on the bearing, and the base should fit into it. Thus, both of these parts are connected. For more reliable fixation of the radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below. The thickness of the threaded and retaining parts of the nut is at your discretion, but not less than 3 mm.
Then this unit is attached to the platform with a bolt (I have an M 26), which attracts the base to the platform. Thus, it turns out that the platform and base are a stationary part of the mechanism, and the body with the nut is rotating.
Now a little about what practice has shown. Towards the end of the season, the radial bearing weakened a little, and a barely noticeable play formed in the turning mechanism.
But with a boom length of 5 meters, this play became noticeably noticeable, so I recommend installing a hub bearing, 36 mm wide, instead of a radial bearing.
Here in Kazan, support and wheel bearings can be bought for 500 rubles both. And to tighten the bolt securing the base to the platform, you will need a spanner with an extension, and definitely two washers - a flat one and a lock washer.
Our next node will be the rack.
To make it you will need a piece of pipe (I have d140) and four pieces of channel. The height of the stand needs to be estimated so that finished form she was just the thing for you. Even two centimeters lower. Then it will be convenient to turn the winch when operating the crane.
Since God is unlikely to send you a piece of pipe with an evenly cut end, you will have to cut one end yourself. To do this, we take a car clamp, or make a clamp from a strip of tin, and tighten it on the pipe.
When tightened, the clamp will try to position itself on the pipe as evenly as possible, and if you help it a little (by eye), you will get a fairly even line around the circumference of the pipe, which you just have to draw, then remove the clamp, and cut the pipe along this line using a grinder .
Then, the rotating mechanism platform is welded to this flat end of the pipe. Now it’s clear why I didn’t give the dimensions in the drawing? You still have to order the rotating mechanism. And you can find a tuba. This means the diameter of the platform can be ordered according to the diameter of the pipe.
Now the legs. They need to be welded so that the stand does not collapse. How to do it? Firstly, they need to be cut to the same length.
Then hang the pipe with the welded platform, passing the rope through the hole in the center of the platform, and place your legs diagonally towards the pipe, so that in the end, the pipe remains hanging evenly, and your legs rest against it on all four sides.
As soon as the balance is found, you need to draw by eye the corners of the channels that abut the pipe, and trim them with a grinder as shown in the photo.
After trimming the corners, lean your legs against the pipe again, catch your balance, check with a rack and tape so that they form an even cross, and secure them with welding. After tacking, check the cross again, and you can weld.
All that remains is to make the support cross itself. It can be made from any rigid profile. At first there was an idea to put it on wheels made of bearings, but time was running out, and it didn’t come to the wheels, but actually it would have been nice. The unit turned out to be quite heavy, and it was difficult to move it.
The length of the arms of the cross is 1.7 meters, although as operation has shown, this cross does not play a particularly large role in the stability of the crane. The main stability is provided by balance, which we will talk about later.
The cross is not welded to the legs, but is attached with M 10 bolts and nuts. This was done for ease of possible transportation. The legs were reinforced in anticipation of installing wheels, but they never got around to it, although the idea of installing them is still there.
The stand with the rotating mechanism is ready, now let's move on to the crane platform, on which the counterweight, winches, and boom will be installed. I found a one and a half meter I-beam, 180 mm wide, for the platform. But I think you can use a channel and even a 150 x 200 beam under it.
At first I even wanted to use timber, but since I found an I-beam, I chose it. The platform is attached to the rotary mechanism body with four bolts and M 10 nuts.
If you use timber instead of an I-beam, then you will need to make additional platforms for it, above and below. You can “encircle” it with two pieces of channel and tighten everything with bolts.
But we’ll wait with the bolts for now, since the place where the platform is attached to the rotating mechanism will need to be selected based on balance. That is, the crane boom must be balanced by a block for counterweights and a winch. That is, the crane must stand confidently on the stand and not fall over.
Next will be the counterweight block.
I have it made from pieces of the same channel as the platform, but it can be made from anything, and in any way. The main thing is to have a container in which you can install loads, so that if necessary, you can increase the counterweight.
Now about the winch. My winch is installed with a capacity of 500 kg, with a brake. And once again, as practice has shown, such power was not enough to lift a load of about 100 kg.
That is, you can lift it, but you have to lean so hard on the handle that when lifting to a height of more than 5 meters, you get tired very quickly. For such a crane you need a winch of 1 - 1.5 tons.
There was also supposed to be a second winch for lifting the boom, but at that time, having visited a bunch of shops and markets, I could find only one winch with a brake, which you see in the photo. Therefore, instead of a second winch, a temporary tension cable was made, the length of which is still changed using clamps.
Unfortunately, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary structure. I still recommend that you install a winch instead, preferably a worm one. Its speed is low, and the brake, whether up or down, is dead. That's what an arrow needs.
All that remains is to make an arrow, which is what we will do. The boom consists of a mount with a shaft, a beam 150 x 50, and a tip with a pulley.
First, the mounting body. It is better to make it from a piece of channel wood.
Any round timber with a diameter of 20 to 30 mm will do for the shaft. For example, I cut off a piece of the rotor shaft of some old engine. Then we bend it in a vice, put two brackets around this shaft and fasten it to the channel, into which the beam will then be inserted.
We buy two simple bearings, so that they fit tightly onto the shaft, and cut out a seat in the mounting body.
Of course, you can dream up how to secure the bearings in the housing. Besides mine, there are probably a dozen more ways. And I found an ebonite plate, 10 mm thick, from which I made these fasteners.
The boom itself is a beam 150 x 50, 5 meters long. It is inserted into a channel 80 mm wide and 2.5 meters long. True, I had to trim it a little so that it would go inside the channel. I have a channel installed, 3.5 meters long, but this is only because I didn’t have it at hand at the time good timber, with small knots. I simply played it safe, which, unfortunately, increased the weight of the arrow.
The timber is secured to the channel with ties made from a metal strip 3 mm thick.
At the end of the boom, you need to attach a pulley for the cable. Mine is made from a wheel from a trolley bag. For skillful hands, I think there are plenty of options for attaching the pulley. At first it was fastened between two pieces of plywood, but then I made a fastening from a channel.
Now you can assemble the arrow, if not for one “but”. During operation, the brackets with which the shaft is attached to the channel turned out to be rather weak. So I made them stronger.
And one more addition. My reinforcing part is secured with four bolts. You need to add two more on top to make the unit more rigid. Although mine works fine with four bolts. Otherwise I would have added it a long time ago.
Now you can assemble the entire crane platform, that is, install a winch on it, a block for counterweights under the winch, and at the other end - a boom lifting body with a boom. If there is, then a second winch, if not, then a guy rope, like I have.
All this is assembled in a lying position, and upon completion it is raised vertically, onto some kind of support. For example, I stacked several pallets on top of each other and placed the assembled platform on them so that the counterweight hung freely downwards.
Then we fasten swivel mechanism to the counter. The most important thing remains - install the platform on the stand so that the boom and counterweight balance each other.
Unfortunately, I don’t have any photographs of the structure that I built for this, well, I’ll try to explain it this way.
This design is a tripod with a block at the top. The height of the tripod is approximately three meters. It is made from timber 100 x 50. As you probably already guessed, the assembled crane platform needs to be suspended and raised so that a stand can be placed under it.
The platform will be raised using its own winch. To do this, we pass the winch cable through the block and hook it to the boom lifting body, which is located at the opposite end of the platform.
Now, if you operate the winch upward, the entire platform will rise. But during the rise, the arrow, raised up, begins to collapse, so you need to either call a couple of assistants who will fix the arrow in a vertical position, or make another tripod (as I did) with a block 6 meters high, and tie rope to the end of the arrow, let it through the block, and pull it up as the platform rises.
Having suspended the platform in this way and placed a stand under it, you can lower and raise the platform and move the stand to find a position in which the counterweight will balance the boom.
In this position we drill 4 through holes and bolt the platform to the stand. OK it's all over Now. The tap is ready. You can start testing.
Well, a couple of examples of operation:
General view of my faucet:
If the article does not answer your question, ask it in the comments. I will try to answer as quickly as possible.
I wish you success in your work, as well as the opportunity to lift and move everything you need and where you need it.
A hydraulic garage crane, which has the sonorous name “Goose,” is used to raise and lower a car engine. If desired, you can do it with my own hands, from improvised means. The hydraulic crane consists of a mobile, collapsible support on wheels and a stand with a jack, on which a retractable arrow equipped with a chain and hook is attached. The crane replaces a winch or other special equipment, without which it would be impossible to remove the engine from the car.
What is required to create a crane?
To design a hydraulic garage crane with your own hands, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, and then adjust them to your needs, in addition to wrenches You will need a drill, grinder and welding machine. The dimensions of the crane are selected based on the required lifting capacity and the size of the garage or other room in which it will be used.
The materials you will need to find and prepare are:
DIY hydraulic garage crane
At the first stageyou will need to weld the frame from steel pipes rectangular section. It must be very strong to withstand heavy loads. If it is necessary for the boom angle to change in the crane, then holes are drilled in the stand and boom, and tubes are installed in their place as bushings. The structure is connected by a steel rod and a simple bolt and nut. At the base of the frame there will be a stable cross, reinforced with sections of pipes or metal plates.
Wheels with brakes are attached to the bottom of the frame so that an engine or other cargo can be transported using a crane. Wheels of this type are installed on modern plastic garbage containers standing on the street.
Second phase- installation of a jack. For this purpose, special stops are prepared on the stand and boom. They must be movable, then the angle of the tap will change during operation. The jack is installed at an angle from the base of the frame to the boom; it will take on the main load when lifting heavy objects.
Third stageinvolves installing a boom consisting of a piece of pipe of smaller diameter with several holes. It is inserted inside the upper part of the frame, connected by a jack to the base of the crane, and extended to the required length. The boom is then attached to the main pipe with a bolt and nut, and a chain and a powerful hook are installed at its end.
After installing the boom, all that remains is to paint the crane and begin testing. Ideally, he should be able to lift up to 400-500 kg freely. If necessary, the stand and boom are strengthened to withstand greater loads.
