Practice: wireless remote control for water supply and irrigation. Automation for deep-well pumps and types of control units Protection with float elements: level control

A necessary condition On a long journey in the cold season, it is important to maintain a comfortable temperature in the car interior. And here one of optimal solutions There will be a Webasto heater - an autonomous device that warms the air in the car to the required temperature.

In the article we will talk about what this device is, why it is needed, and also describe the process of installing the heater yourself.

Ways to warm up a car

To ensure a comfortable microclimate in the car interior, car heaters are most often used. However, they have a significant drawback - they function only when the car engine is in operating mode.

However, this is not always possible, and therefore in some situations the driver has to freeze, complaining about the wrong clothes or shoes.

An electric heater can be an alternative to a stove, but in this case there are nuances. And the most important thing is that the supply of electricity in a car is not endless, and therefore it is not always possible to spend battery power on heating.

Autonomous car heaters are the way out of this situation. Of course, the price of such a device is much higher than that of a standard stove, but there are also plenty of benefits from its operation.

Who will benefit from the heater?

What are these benefits?

Firstly, the autonomous heater creates in the car cabin comfortable temperature immediately after switching on.
If with a stove we would hear from the driver the usual “Be patient, now we’ll start and warm up,” then in the case of an autonomous heat generator we won’t have to freeze.

Note!
Some Webasto autonomous heaters are equipped with a module that enables the system to be turned on with mobile phone or a special remote control.
In this case, you can start heating the interior in advance, and the car will be warm enough when you arrive.

Secondly, the use of this device provides pre-heating of the engine. Thanks to this, even in severe frost the car starts very quickly, and engine life is significantly saved.
It is also worth mentioning such advantages as maintaining the temperature in the car during long-term parking(truck drivers and those waiting in lines at customs will appreciate it), fast heating of windows, protection from frost and fogging, etc.

Based on these advantages, heating devices from Webasto can be recommended:

For those who do not like to freeze inside the car, or for families who often carry small children in the car.
For those who stand in traffic jams, queues, etc. for a long time. First of all, these are taxi drivers, couriers, truck drivers, special equipment drivers, etc.
And also for those who are trying to reduce wear on their car’s engine and maximize its efficiency.

Heater design

Air

By design, autonomous heating systems are divided into air and liquid. The most common category of devices includes air systems.

Air autonomous system Webasto heating system has the following design:

The main element is a hermetically sealed combustion chamber.
In her under the influence fuel pump Fuel flows through an automatically adjustable tap with a built-in filter.
The glow plug is responsible for starting the ignition process.
The fuel-air mixture ignites and burns in special device– a burner with a specially shaped nozzle. Air enters the burner nozzle using a special blowing device, after which it passes into the heat exchanger.
In the heat exchanger, the air is heated to the required temperature, and then, under the influence of the same supercharger, it enters the cabin.

The cooled air from the passenger compartment again enters the heater through the intake openings, where it is heated again.

Air heaters can be installed on almost any car, the dimensions of which allow the body of the device to fit. Features of air models are relatively low mass(up to 7 kg), as well as low fuel consumption. An hour of operation of the unit in continuous heating mode burns from 0.1 to 0.25 liters of fuel, depending on the modification.

Liquid

Liquid models of autonomous heat-generating devices from Webasto are characterized by slightly higher fuel consumption. In an hour of operation, such an installation consumes up to a liter of fuel.

The operating principle of this unit is to use the resources of the engine cooling system:

Upon a user signal (pressing a button, triggering a timer, a signal from the remote control or telephone), the heater pump starts.
Under the influence of the pump, coolant pumping begins.
Then fuel is supplied to the combustion chamber, which is ignited by the glow plug and burns, transferring thermal energy through the heat exchanger to the coolant circulating through the pipes.
Thanks to this, even with a “silent” engine, the car’s standard heating system is turned on, since the heated coolant begins to transfer energy to the stove.

The process is controlled by an automatic control system. If necessary, it increases or decreases the fuel supply to the combustion chamber, and also regulates the process of air injection into the system.

Heater operation control

We have already mentioned several times above the automation of the system. It's time to take a closer look at what elements can be used to regulate the amount of fuel consumed and plan to maintain the temperature.

You can control the operation of the installation using the following devices:

Mini-timer – makes it possible to program the start of warm-up for 24 hours, i.e. for a day. The standard mini-timer from Webasto has the ability to set three switching points, and for each of them set the duration of operation.

Modular timers They are an improved version of the previous device. Using a modular timer, you can schedule the heating to start during the week (for example, on Sunday the car is not needed - therefore the heater does not turn on).
Keychain remote control has functionality similar to a minitimer. The range of the key fob is about 1 km, so even while in the office, you can warm up the car by the time of the intended trip.
allows you to control the operation of the heater using a mobile phone.

Heater installation

Equipment

Of course, you shouldn’t install full-size heaters designed for trucks, buses and special equipment yourself. But install it on your a car Almost anyone can do a pre-heater (such as Webasto Termo Top E) with their own hands.

First you need to buy the device itself, as well as a special installation kit.

As a result, we should have:

Autonomous heater Webasto.
Gasoline pump.
Metal and plastic clamps for installing heating system elements.
Heater control panel with a set of wires for connecting it to the vehicle’s electrical network (see also).
Set of hoses and pipes.

As a rule, no additional details not required for installation. In some cases, you may need to purchase a bracket to place the device itself inside the car.

Installation process

Here are instructions describing the basic sequence of operations:

The first thing you need to do is decide on the installation location of the device under the hood of the car. As a rule, there is not enough space between the radiator and the engine, since the air conditioning pipes and its compressor get in the way.
It is optimal to install the device so that you can use the shortest possible fuel line, and also not too long pipes.
Then we install the bracket from of stainless steel. The bracket can be painted to reduce corrosion.

Note!
When installing the heater, displacement of the fuel pipes is allowed. To do this, they need to be bent to the side and fixed.

We drill holes in the bracket to which we attach the guides of the device itself.
We mount the inlet, and then install the air outlet.
We bring the gas line to the device and connect it to the gas pump. Separately we stretch the wires that provide power to the fuel pump. We also connect the wiring to the heater itself.

We connect the heater to the cooling system through a pipe.
We bring the wires into the cabin, after which we install the control panel on the panel (see also article).

After completing all operations, we connect the power wires to the battery and test the system. Depending on the design features, the heater can start either immediately or after a few minutes of engine operation - this is due to the presence of air in the system.

This post is the first in a series of stories about how you can make your own radio-controlled payload switch with relative ease.
The post is aimed at beginners; for the rest, I think it will be a “repetition of what has been covered.”

An approximate plan (we'll see as we go) is expected to be as follows:

Switch hardware

I’ll immediately make a reservation that the project is being made for my specific needs, everyone can adapt it to suit themselves (all sources will be presented during the course of the story). Additionally, I will describe certain technological solutions and give their rationale.

Start

Currently the following inputs are available:

I would like to implement remote control of light and hood.
There are one- and two-section switches (light and light + hood).
The switches are installed in the plasterboard wall.
All wiring is three-wire (phase, neutral, protective grounding present).

With the first point, everything is clear: normal desires must be satisfied.

The second point generally suggests that it would be necessary to do two different schemes(for a one- and two-channel switch), but we will do it differently - we will make a “two-channel” module, but in the case when only one channel is actually required, we will not solder some of the components on the board (we will implement a similar approach in the code).

The third point - provides some flexibility in choosing the form factor of the switch (the existing switch is actually removed, the mounting box is dismantled, it is mounted inside the wall finished device, the mounting box is returned and the switch is mounted back).

The fourth point makes it much easier to find a power source (220V is “at hand”).

Principles and element base

I would like to make the switch multifunctional - i.e. the “tactile” component must remain (the switch must physically remain and its usual function of turning on/off the load must be preserved, but at the same time it must be possible to control the load via a radio channel.

To do this, we will replace the usual two-position (on-off) switches with non-latching switches (buttons) of a similar design:

These switches operate in a primitively simple way: when a key is pressed, a pair of contacts are closed, when the key is released, the contacts open. Obviously, this is an ordinary “tact button” (in fact, this is how we will process it).

Now it almost becomes clear how to implement this “in hardware”:

we take the MK (atmega8, atmega168, atmega328 - I use what we have “right now”), complete with the MK we add a resistor to pull up RESET to VCC,
we connect two “buttons” (to minimize the number of attachments - we will use pull-up resistors built into the MK), to switch the load we will use a relay with suitable parameters (I just had 833H-1C-C relays with 5V control and sufficient power of the switched load - 7A 250V~),
Naturally, it is impossible to connect the relay winding directly to the output of the MK (the current is too high), so we will add the necessary “piping” (resistor, transistor and diode).

We will use the microcontroller in operating mode from the built-in oscillator - this will allow us to abandon the external quartz resonator and a pair of capacitors (we will save a little and simplify the creation of the board and subsequent installation).

We will organize the radio channel using nRF24L01+:

The module, as is known, is tolerant of 5V signals at the inputs, but requires 3.3V for power supply; accordingly, we will also add an L78L33 linear stabilizer and a pair of capacitors to it.

Additionally, we will add blocking capacitors to power the MK.

We will program the MK via ISP - for this we will provide a corresponding connector on the module board.

Actually, the whole scheme described, all that remains is to decide on the MK pins to which we will connect our “peripherals” (radio module, “buttons” and select pins for controlling the relay).

Let's start with things that are already actually defined:

The radio module is connected to the SPI bus (thus, we connect pins of the block from 1 to 8 to GND, 3V3, D10 (CE), D9 (CSN), D13 (SCK), D11 (MOSI), D12 (MISO), D2 (IRQ) - respectively).
ISP is a standard thing and is connected as follows: connect connector pins 1 to 6 to D12 (MISO), VCC, D13 (SCK), D11 (MOSI), RESET, GND - respectively).

Then all that remains is to decide on the pins for the buttons and transistors that control the relay. But let's not rush - any MK pins (both digital and analog) are suitable for this. Let's select them at the stage of board routing(let’s simply select those pins that will be as simple as possible to route to the corresponding “points”).

Now we need to decide which “cases” we will use. This is where my natural laziness begins to dictate the rules: I really don’t like drilling printed circuit boards - so we’ll choose “surface mount” (SMD) as much as possible. On the other hand, common sense dictates that using SMD will save a lot of PCB size.

For beginners, surface mounting will seem like a rather complicated topic, but in reality it’s not so scary (however, if you have a more or less decent soldering station with hairdryer). There are a lot of videos on YouTube with lessons on SMD - I highly recommend checking them out (I started using SMD a couple of months ago, I learned from just such materials).

Let’s create a “shopping list” (BOM - bill of materials) for the “two-channel” module:

microcontroller - atmega168 in TQFP32 package - 1 pc.
transistor - MMBT2222ALT1 in SOT23 package - 2 pcs.
diode - 1N4148WS in SOD323 package - 2 pcs.
stabilizer - L78L33 in SOT89 housing - 1 pc.
relay - 833H-1C-C - 2 pcs.
resistor - 10 kOhm, size 0805 - 1 pc. (pull RESET to VCC)
resistor - 1 kOhm, size 0805 - 1 pc. (to the base circuit of the transistor)
capacitor - 0.1 µF, size 0805 - 2 pcs. (on nutrition)
capacitor - 0.33 µF, size 0805 - 1 pc. (on nutrition)
electrolytic capacitor - 47 µF, size 0605 - 1 pc. (on nutrition)

In addition to this, you will need terminal blocks (for connecting the power load), a 2x4 block (for connecting the radio module), and a 2x3 connector (for ISP).

Here I’m a little cunning and peek into my “stash” (I just choose what’s already there). You can choose the components as you wish (choosing specific components is beyond the scope of this post).

Since the entire circuit is already practically “formed” (at least in my head), we can begin designing our module.

In general, it would be nice to first assemble everything on a breadboard (using cases with lead elements), but since all the “assemblies” described above have already been repeatedly tested and implemented in other projects, I’ll allow myself to skip the prototyping stage.

Design

To do this, we will use a wonderful program - EAGLE.

In my opinion, it is a very simple, but at the same time very convenient program for creating circuit diagrams and printed circuit boards for them. Additional advantages to EAGLE: multiplatform (I have to work on both Win and MAC computers) and availability free version(with some restrictions, which for most “do-it-yourselfers” will seem completely insignificant).

Teaching you how to use EAGLE in this topic is not part of my plans (at the end of the article there is a link to a wonderful and very easy to learn tutorial on using EAGLE), I will only tell you some of my “tricks” when creating a board.

My algorithm for creating a circuit and board was approximately the following (key sequence):

Scheme:

We create a new project, inside which we add a “scheme” (empty file).
We add the MK and the necessary “body kit” (pull-up resistor to RESET, power supply blocking capacitor, etc.). We pay attention to the packages (Package) when selecting elements from the library.
We “represent” a key on a transistor that controls the relay. We copy this piece of the diagram (to organize a “second channel”). Key inputs - for now we leave them “dangling in the air”.
We add an ISP connector and a block for connecting the radio module to the diagram (we make the corresponding connections in the diagram).
To power the radio module, we add a stabilizer (with appropriate capacitors) to the circuit.
We add “connectors” for connecting “buttons” (we immediately “ground” one pin of the connector, the second “dangles in the air”).

After these steps, we get a complete circuit, but for now the transistor switches and “buttons” remain unconnected to the MK.

I place terminal blocks for connecting the power load.
To the right of the terminal blocks is a relay.
Even further to the right are elements of transistor switches.
I place the power stabilizer for the radio module (with the corresponding capacitors) next to the transistor switches (at the bottom of the board).
I place the block for connecting the radio module at the bottom right (pay attention to the position the radio module itself will be in when connected incorrectly to this block - according to my idea, it should not protrude beyond the main board).
I place the ISP connector next to the radio module connector (since the same “pins” of the MK are used - to make it easier to route the board).
In the remaining space I place the MK (the body must be “twisted” to determine its most optimal position in order to ensure the minimum length of the tracks).
We place blocking capacitors as close as possible to the corresponding terminals (MK and radio module).

After the elements are placed in their places, I trace the conductors. “Ground” (GND) - I don’t place it (later I’ll make a testing ground for this circuit).

Now you can decide on connecting the keys and buttons (I look at which pins are closer to the corresponding circuits and which will be easier to connect on the board), for this it is good to have the following picture before your eyes:

The location of the MK chip on the board exactly matches the picture above (only rotated 45 degrees clockwise), so my choice is as follows:

We connect transistor switches to pins D3, D4.
Buttons - on A1, A0.

The attentive reader will see that atmega8 appears in the diagram below, atmega168 is mentioned in the description, and amega328 is mentioned in the picture with the chip. Don’t let this confuse you - the chips have the same pinout and (specifically for this project) are interchangeable and differ only in the amount of memory “on board”. We choose what we like/have (I later soldered 168 “pebbles” into the board: more memory than the amega8 - it will be possible to implement more logic, but more on that in the second part).

Actually, at this stage the diagram takes its final form (we make the appropriate changes on the diagram - “connect” keys and buttons to the selected pins):

After this, I complete the last connections in the printed circuit board project, “sketch out” the GND polygons (since the laser printer does not print solid polygons well, I make it a “mesh”), add a couple of vias (VIA) from one layer of the board to another and check that there is not a single chain left unbroken.

I got a scarf measuring 56x35mm.

An archive with a schematic and board for Eagle version 6.1.0 (and higher) can be found at this link.

Voila, you can start manufacturing printed circuit board.

PCB manufacturing

I make the board using the LUT (Laser Ironing Technology) method. At the end of the post there is a link to materials that helped me a lot.

For the sake of order, I will give the main steps for making the board:

I print the bottom side of the board on Lomond 130 paper (glossy).
I print the top side of the board on the same paper (mirrored!).
I fold the resulting printouts with the images inward and combine them in the light (it is very important to obtain maximum accuracy).
After this, I fasten the sheets of paper with a stapler (constantly checking that the alignment is not disturbed) on three sides - an “envelope” is obtained.
I cut out a suitable size piece of double-sided fiberglass (with metal scissors or a hacksaw).
Fiberglass needs to be treated with very fine sandpaper (remove oxides) and degreased (I do this with acetone).
I place the resulting workpiece (carefully, by the edges, without touching the cleaned surfaces) into the resulting “envelope”.
I heat the iron to full and carefully iron the workpiece on both sides.
I leave the board to cool (5 minutes), after which you can soak the paper under running water and remove it.

After it seems that all the paper has been removed, I wipe the board dry and under the light table lamp I'm checking for defects. There are usually several places where pieces of the glossy layer of paper remain (they look like whitish specks) - usually these remnants are located in the narrowest places between the conductors. I remove them with a regular sewing needle (a steady hand is important, especially when making boards for “small” cases).

I wash off the toner with acetone.

Advice: When making small boards, make a blank under required quantity boards, simply by placing images of the upper and lower parts of the board in several copies - and already “roll” this “combined” image onto a fiberglass workpiece. After etching, it will be enough to cut the workpiece into separate boards.
Only Necessarily check the dimensions of the boards when inputting onto paper: some programs like to “slightly” change the image scale when outputting, and this is unacceptable.

Quality control

After this, I do a visual inspection (good lighting and a magnifying glass are required). If there is any suspicion that there is a “stuck”, check the “suspicious” places with a tester.

For peace of mind - control with a tester everyone adjacent conductors (it is convenient to use the “dialing” mode, when in case of a “short circuit” the tester gives a sound signal).

If, nevertheless, an unnecessary contact is found somewhere, I correct it sharp knife. Additionally, I pay attention to possible “microcracks” (for now I’m just fixing them - I’ll fix them at the stage of tinning the board).

Tinning, drilling

I prefer to tin the board before drilling - so soft solder makes it a little easier to drill and the drill at the “exit” of the board “tears” the copper conductors less.

First, the manufactured printed circuit board must be degreased (acetone or alcohol); you can “go through” it with an eraser to remove any oxides that have appeared. After that, I cover the board with ordinary glycerin and then with a soldering iron (temperature somewhere around 300 degrees) with a small amount I “drive” the solder along the tracks - the solder lies smoothly and beautifully (shins). You have to tin it quickly enough so that the tracks don’t fall off.

When everything is ready, I wash the board with regular liquid soap.

After this you can drill the board.
With holes with a diameter of more than 1 mm, everything is quite simple (I just drill and that’s it - you just need to try to maintain verticality, then the exit hole will fall into the place allocated for it).

But with vias (I make them with a 0.6mm drill) it’s a little more complicated - the output hole, as a rule, turns out to be a little “ragged” and this can lead to an unwanted break in the conductor.
Here we can advise you to make each hole in two passes: drill first on one side (but so that the drill does not come out on the other side of the board), and then do the same on the other side. With this approach, the “connection” of the holes will occur in the thickness of the board (and slight misalignment will not be a problem).

Installation of elements

First, the interlayer jumpers are soldered.
Where these are just vias, I simply insert a piece of copper wire and solder it on both sides.
If the “transition” is carried out through one of the holes for output elements (connectors, relays, etc.): I unravel the stranded wire into thin cores and carefully solder pieces of this core on both sides in those holes where the transition is needed, while taking up minimal space space inside the hole. This allows the transition to be implemented and the holes remain free enough for the corresponding connectors to fit normally into place and be soldered.

Here again we should return to the “quality control” stage - I call the tester all previously suspicious and new places obtained during tinning/drilling/creating transitions.
I check that the previously detected microcracks are eliminated with solder (or I eliminate them by soldering a thin conductor over the crack, if the crack remains after tinning).

I eliminate all “stickies”, if any appeared during the tinning process. This much easier to do now than in the process of debugging an already fully assembled board.

Now you can proceed directly to the installation of elements.

My principle: “bottom up” (first I solder the least tall components, then those that are “higher” and those that are “high”). This approach allows you to place all the elements on the board with less inconvenience.

Thus, the SMD components are soldered first (I start with those elements that have “ more legs" - MK, transistors, diodes, resistors, capacitors), then it comes to output components - connectors, relays, etc.

Thus, we get a ready-made board.

To be continued ...

P.S. The “two-channel” module can be used to replace “pass-through” switches (usually placed at the beginning and end of stairs between floors, etc.).

P.P.S. If you use flatter push-button switches, then with a little modification you can make boards that will fit into existing mounting boxes (i.e., not just for placement in plasterboard wall niches).

Remote electronic control various actuators - promising direction in radio engineering, which does not lose its relevance today. Here is one real situation. It is required to automate the water supply to a house, bathhouse or other buildings on a personal plot using remote control. The house is located at a distance of 100... 150 m from the village well. The submersible pump installed in the well is turned on and off via a radio channel. The device is based on a wireless call purchased in a store in St. Petersburg with a symbolic cost of 192 rubles.

Wireless calls industrial production may have a different appearance (photo 1), but their mandatory elements are a remote control transmitter and a radio signal receiver. Typically, such wireless calls operate at a frequency of 433 MHz and due to the very low power transmitter do not interfere with or affect the operation of other household appliances.

However, the range of such calls stated in the passport data is almost always greatly overestimated, sometimes by 2.5-3 times. So, if the declared range (indicated in the passport) is, for example, 80 m, then the real distance of the reliable operation of the call will most likely be no more than 30 m. With an increase in the passport range, their price always increases proportionally. For example, a wireless call with a working radius of 100 m (in reality - about 35 m) already costs more than 1,100 rubles.

In fact, it doesn’t matter which call you use, since its real “range” can almost always be increased at least 1.5...2 times by connecting an external antenna. Therefore, we will consider the most “budget” and simple options. The receiver antenna should not be touched, since at a radio signal frequency of 433 MHz, increasing its length does not lead to a significant increase in the distance of reliable operation of the transmitter-receiver combination.

Photo 2 shows two different appearance models, but call receivers identical in circuit design with the cover removed. They have the same scheme, but the execution is different. In particular, the one on the left in photo 2 is assembled using discrete elements, and the one on the right is assembled using elements in SMD surface-mount packages.

In Fig. Figure 1 shows a diagram of the receiver of one of the simplest and cheapest wireless calls. Pin 10 of the U1 chip has an active high level when a radio signal is received from the remote control transmitter (when its button is pressed). Pins 11 and 12 of U1, on the contrary, have a high level at rest and a low logical level when a control signal is received from the remote control transmitter. Both of these signals can be used to control various devices, if you connect a simple set-top box to the receiver.

DEVELOPMENT OF THE WIRELESS CALL RECEIVER

In order for the pump remote control device to work effectively, for example, when you press the button on the remote control transmitter for the first time, it connects the pump to a 220 V network, and when you press it again, it turns it off, you will need to assemble a simple device and connect it to a ready-made wireless call receiver board. In Fig. Figure 2 shows a diagram of such a device that allows you to turn the pump on and off without laying additional wires.

The submersible pump is connected in parallel with an EL1 incandescent lamp, which is an indicator light. (Thanks to this, you can verify from a distance that the command from the transmitter has been received, remote device worked, and the pump turned on.) The additional device board (Fig. 2) is connected to the radio call receiver board (Fig. 1) with unshielded wires of the MGTF-0.4 type (or similar). In this case, the common wire of the set-top box is connected to the negative power supply of the receiver, and the input of the DD1.1 chip (K1561TM2) is connected to pin 10 of the CD4069BD chip (in some models - D4069UBC). To prevent a melodic bell from sounding during the transmission of a control signal, it is enough to unsolder one of the conductors leading to the dynamic capsule.

The additional device circuit works as follows. When the power is turned on at the first moment of time, the R input of the DD1.1 trigger, thanks to the discharged capacitor C2, receives a high logical level, which resets the trigger and its direct output Q (pin 1 of the DD1.1 microcircuit) is set to a low logical level. Therefore, transistor VT1 is closed, relay K1 is de-energized, lamp EL1 is not lit, and the pump does not work.

About a third of a second after switching on, capacitor C2 will charge almost to the supply voltage and the level at the input R of the trigger (pin 4 of DD1.1) will change to low. Now it is ready to receive signals from the clock input C, which, as follows from the diagram, has a low initial level.

When a radio signal is transmitted from the remote control transmitter, it is received by the call receiver and a high logical level appears at pin 10 of the U1 chip, which is supplied to the input C of the DD1.1 chip of the additional device. As a result, the trigger is thrown to another steady state- now a high voltage level appears at its direct output Q (pin 1 of DD1.1). Transistor VT1 turns on relay K1, and its contacts, in turn, close the electrical power circuit of the lighting lamp EL1 and the submersible pump. The trigger can remain in this state for as long as desired, until the next positive edge of the pulse arrives at input C (the next key press on the remote control), which will switch the trigger to its original state. In this case, the lighting lamp EL1 will go out and the pump will turn off.

The maximum power of the load (pump) that can be connected to this remote control device depends on the parameters of the electromagnetic relay K1 and for relays of type RES35 should not exceed 350 W.

All parts of the set-top box are easily placed on a board measuring 30x40 mm, which, together with the connecting wires, is placed in the standard housing of the call receiver in the battery compartment. To reduce electrical interference, it is desirable that the wires connecting the device to the power source and going from relay K1 to the pump have a cross-section of at least 1.5 mm2 and be as short as possible.

Fixed resistors - type MLT-0.25 (MF-25). Oxide capacitors are type K50-26 for an operating voltage of at least 16 V. The remaining non-polar capacitors are type KM-6B. The DD1 chip is of the K1561TM2 type; it can be replaced by the K561TM2 without compromising operating efficiency. You can also use the K561TM1 trigger, but in this case you will have to make appropriate changes to the circuit. Transistor VT1 is a field-effect type KP540A with high input resistance. This allows you to minimize the load on the output of the trigger of the DD1 microcircuit. Instead of the KP540A, you can use a field-effect transistor from any of the KP540 series or its foreign analogues BUZ11, IRF510, IRF521.

Relay K1 can be replaced with RES43 (version RS4.569.201) or another one designed for operating voltage

4...4.5 V and current 10...50 mA. It is not advisable to install a relay with an operating current of more than 100 mA into the device. LED HL1 - any, with its help it is convenient to control the operation of the relay. If necessary, elements HL1 and R3 can be excluded from the circuit. The additional switch SA1 allows you to control the pump manually.

In the basic version, the bell receiver is powered by two 1.5 V finger elements. But when using a bell as part of a remote pump control, it is better to use a network stabilized power supply with a voltage of 5 V to power it. The current consumption from the power supply of the receiving unit does not exceed 10 mA in standby mode and increases to 50 mA when the relay is activated. For other types of relays, current consumption may have a different value. It is not worth increasing the supply voltage of the receiving unit to 12 V or more, since the range of reliable communication with the remote control transmitter will not increase. The optimal supply voltage for the receiver is 5...E V.

DEVELOPMENT OF THE WIRELESS CALL REMOTE TRANSMITTER

The wireless call transmitter is housed in a housing the size of a standard matchbox. His electrical diagram shown in Fig. 3

3. The remote control transmitter circuit does not need modification. In order not to change the battery once a year, a TV-182-C type adapter with a stabilized output voltage of 12 V and a current of 0.5 A is used to power the transmitter.

To increase the operating range to the antenna contact on printed circuit board using a piece of wire MGTF-0.8 (or similar) connect a telescopic whip antenna from any portable radio. In extreme cases, you can use a similar multi-core wire 35...40 cm long as an external antenna, fluffing (like flower petals) at the end its thin conductors (the diameter of the diverging petals is 6...8 cm). But such an improvised antenna works noticeably worse than a telescopic one. The greatest operating range with a telescopic antenna will be when it is extended approximately 35...40 cm.

The original and modernized transmitter remote controls are shown in photo 3. With a telescopic antenna, it is possible to increase the real “range” of the transmitter remote control to 200 m, subject to direct visibility.

A. Kashkarov, St. Petersburg
Based on materials from the magazine "SAM"

Regardless of the depth, flow rate, intensity of water intake, the well and installed equipment requires additional protection to supply water. There is no way to visually monitor the level, cleanliness, water pressure, or compliance of the electrical network indicators with the reference ones. Correctly selected, installed and configured automation for a well pump protects electrical equipment, significantly increasing the service life of water supply devices.

Optimization of energy consumption: the pump is turned on for the time required to draw a certain amount of water into the tank.
Ensuring sufficient constant pressure in the water supply system.
Protection of well walls from crumbling as a result of pump motor operation at low flow rates.
Protection of equipment from breakdowns due to dry running or ingress of mechanical particles.
Engine condition monitoring: shutdown when maximum temperature, voltage, pressure are exceeded.

Pumping equipment with automatic protection

Automatic well protection: types of systems

Automation in well equipment is selected depending on the type and power of the pumps used: submersible devices require the selection of special compact sealed elements, for external systems they use relays and sensors for installation indoors.

The installation schemes for sensors and relays for systems using hydraulic accumulator tanks and water pipelines connected directly to the well are radically different.

Layout of the well protection system and hydraulic accumulator

The well installation with pumping equipment and automation is carried out simultaneously. Take into account:

Type of pumping devices, power.
Source performance and usage intensity.
Required level of protection: it is possible to use complex multi-level automated systems.

Protection with float elements: level control

The most simple system automation for a home or country well, which you can install yourself - float with level control. The principle of operation of the protection: the pump motor is forcibly disconnected from the network after exceeding the maximum permissible level in the tank: expansion or storage tank. The motor automatically turns on when the level drops below the minimum permissible level.

Simple float system

Use 2 different types sensors:

Plastic containers for external tanks.
Sealed, small-diameter float elements for immersion into the well - when used in conjunction with a submersible pump outside the storage tank.

The main advantage of float protection is low cost and ease of installation. Another argument in favor of using level control: the engine operates in a precise mode. The system is protected from frequent switching on and short periods of operation, which adversely affect the service life of the pump. Water is drawn into the tank to a certain level, and the engine is turned on again only after most of the tank has been used.

As additional protection for a water intake with a small-volume tank, a simple float circuit is supplemented with control of the working pressure by installing sensors and relays.

Added protection relay, float sensors built into the tank

Pressure control system: pump protection

Automatic pressure control units use:

To protect home water intake systems using submersible equipment: the relay is mounted on the pipeline.
When arranging an individual water supply using a membrane container (tank) with an external or downhole pump.

Ready-made automatic modules with relay and pressure gauge

The operating principle of automation for a well pump with pressure control and regulation is simple. Minimum and maximum pressure values are set. When the indicator drops to the lower parameter, the motor automatically turns on. The engine switches off after reaching the upper preset permissible limit. In fact, the engine only operates within a certain operating pressure range.

Use a relay with spring adjustment. The minimum and maximum operating pressure is adjusted manually. The degree of compression of the metal spring determines the upper value; an additional nut is used to adjust the minimum permissible level.

The main disadvantage of budget devices is the complexity of setup. You have to use a pressure gauge, but fine adjustments are impossible. In addition, household relays do not have sufficient reliability, quickly fail and do not protect the pump from idle operation.

Special industrial relays are produced with built-in pressure gauges and surface-mounted regulators that allow you to achieve precise installation parameters, additional sensors for protection against dry operation.

Automatic press control unit

Flow devices: maximum control and fine tuning

Manufacturers of equipment and automation for wells produce multifunctional electronic units that comprehensively protect pumping stations.

Based on the complexity of the circuits and operating principle, industrial automatic units can be divided into 3 categories:

Do-it-yourself automatic well equipment: instructions

The complexity of equipping a well with a pump and automation lies in the need for accurate calculations of the power of electric pumps, compatibility of materials, compliance with technology and installation rules. The durability of the equipment, the uninterrupted supply of water, and the service life of the well depend on how accurate the calculations are when planning a water supply scheme. Self-installation is allowed only when selecting elements of equal power from the same manufacturer, designed for installation in a single system.

Classic scheme installation of automation for an individual well pump in country house which you can do yourself

Preparation of materials and selection of installation location

The location for installing the equipment is selected based on the type of pump: for external pumps, additional sound insulation is required. In any case, electrical equipment must be placed in a room protected from water and frost. Basements, basements, caissons isolated from atmospheric influences are suitable.

To create a simple automatic system you will need:

Pressure switch, dry running sensor, pressure gauge.
Shut-off valves: taps (valves).
Pipes of suitable diameter.
Connecting elements, adapters, tees, splitters.
Insulating tape for sealing connections.

Automation elements and related materials

Installation diagram and configuration of the protective system

The relay is installed directly on the pipe before entering the battery tank. A dry operation protection sensor is installed in front of the pressure regulator. The connection of the elements on the tee is carefully insulated, and the tightness must be checked. There are relay units that are installed on the tank body.

Procedure for connecting the relay unit

After the initial installation, it is necessary to check the contact group and connect the power cord. Be sure to install a grounding cable. The assembled unit is connected to the pump and plugged into the network.

Relay ready for connection

Configuration and adjustment must be carried out after checking the functionality of the connected devices.

Set acceptable operating pressure values

Video: assembly and connection of pumping equipment

It is ideal if all work, from choosing a location for a well to launching a water supply system, is carried out by professionals. Experts take into account the characteristics of the well and its productivity. Taking into account all the parameters, the optimal filtration scheme, type pumping device. Comprehensively plan the use of a suitable automatic protection system. In this case, the possibility of error during selection or installation is excluded.

It is also impossible to save on automation: the price of a damaged pump, the cost of dismantling and installing new equipment significantly exceeds the cost of a reliable unit. Modern systems can be equipped with means remote control and management.

The owner himself is on personal plot and he needs to organize watering. Using the keychain, you can control a submersible pump, turn on irrigation, draw water into the bathhouse, and turn on the fountain.

Using wireless control in the country.

The convenience of wireless light control is obvious. Now you don’t need to look for the switch, rummaging around the walls in the dark, illuminating them with your cell phone.

You can turn on the lighting from anywhere in the house or area, and even on the approaches to the dacha. There are several options for using wireless control of a country house.

The main ones.

Wireless control of the pump (on and off) using the remote control.

The owner himself is at this time in his personal plot and he needs to organize watering. This mode is especially convenient if the nearest well with a submersible pump is located at a certain distance from the house and plot (100-150 m or a little more in the line of sight). Having this system, you can work on the site without leaving it, and you can get as much water as you need. The pump operation is controlled via a radio channel. The stated range is 200-250 m, but obstacles in the form of bricks and concrete walls, as well as interference from power lines and antennas cellular communications can reduce it.

Example of use from the company Zamel (Poland).

Remote control + wireless relay.

A waterproof box is provided for outdoor installation.

Additionally, you can program automatic shutdown of irrigation; the relay has a timer. For example, set the value to 30 minutes, after half an hour watering will stop.

Irrigation and pump control kits.

Wireless control of electrical appliances can be carried out at various frequencies - 433 MHz, 866 MHz and 2400 MHz. Relatively recently, the standard signal transmission frequency was 433 MHz, but recently, remote controls operating at 868 MHz have increasingly been given preference.

We list the main advantages of working in this range:

It is less used, so there is less interference and "false positives" that often occur at 433 MHz;
Up to 32 transmitters can be connected to one receiver, so remote controls can be distributed to all family members;
Increased range (200 m in line of sight);
No permission required for use;
Transmitters operating at 868 MHz consume much less power than their higher frequency counterparts.