One of the most popular types of room decoration is wallpapering. But in order for the result to please you, you need to know how to glue wallpaper correctly. There are a sufficient number of nuances that affect the quality of the finish.
Preparatory stage
First, everything in the room that can be removed is removed, including door frames and baseboards, if possible. They also remove sockets and switches, closing the boxes with wires with plugs - plastic or wooden.
Turn off electrical outlets
When working with electricity, we de-energize the room and do not turn it on until we are finished. It is advisable to carry out all work, including wallpapering, with the power turned off. The work is “wet”, and water or glue can get on the wires and short out. If the wiring is done according to all the rules and there are protective circuit breakers, this is not a big deal. They'll just turn off the power and that's it.
If the wiring is still done in the old way, it can be dangerous. The worst part is that in this case there is often no way to turn off the power in a separate room. Only in the entire apartment or, in best case scenario, in her half. Then the solution is to remove the power wires from the sockets and switches (with the power off, of course) and carefully insulate the ends, then hiding them under plugs. Then you will have to unwind them and put them back in place, but it will be safe.
Lighting during work is temporary - extension cords are pulled from other rooms and portable lamps are turned on. Once you have dealt with electricity, you can move on.
Sealing irregularities
Here you will first have to assess the condition of the walls. First you need to remove all the nails and screws, remove chips and repair cracks. Then examine the results. If the walls are more or less even, there are only small defects, you can get by with occasional leveling. Only cracks, dents and chips are repaired. You can cover them up finishing putty. Just before leveling, completely clean the wall of dust and pieces of wallpaper, and then cover it with a primer (with a wall roller and a brush in the corners).
If the wall has been “treated” with a hammer drill, you cannot do without full putty of the entire wall. Mostly used today gypsum putty. First, apply a layer of primary or starting. It has a coarser grain and the layer can be up to 3-5 mm. This composition is used to level out the main unevenness, trying to achieve a smooth surface. After drying, they pass through a special mesh, removing any unevenness or sagging that may exist.
After being used finishing putty. It is very flexible and can be applied thin layer- up to 1-2 mm. After this, the wall becomes smooth (after the irregularities have been smoothed out with a mesh, only with a smaller mesh).
Primer of walls
The second layer of primer is applied after puttying. It forms a film on the surface that reduces the absorption of the glue and also improves adhesion. For wallpapering, you can use a thinner wallpaper glue as a primer. Each pack has a table indicating the amount of water for gluing and priming. We dilute the glue in the required proportion, wait for it to be ready (also on the package) and cover the walls with the composition. The priming technique is the same: first go over the corners with a brush, then with a roller on smooth surfaces.
In the video, for some reason, the use of primary putty is called plaster, but otherwise the sequence of actions is presented correctly.
Rules for gluing
When wallpapering there are several rules that must be followed. The technique varies depending on the type of wallpaper, as does the glue, which is necessary for a quality result. the difference is mainly in when and where to apply the glue. You don't have to guess. Everything is on the insert, which is included on each roll of wallpaper. There it is graphically depicted, and in some it is written, which part should be coated with glue: only the wall or only the wallpaper, or maybe both at once.
But some things remain the same. For example, applying a starting strip.
Where to start
In reality, the starting location is not that important. It is important that the first strip is glued strictly vertically. Therefore, the choice is yours.
If the room has a perfectly designed corner: smooth and exactly vertical, you can start from there. You can start from a door with a perfectly aligned jamb. If there is nothing like that, draw a guideline for yourself. Take a building level, mark a point on the wall and draw an exact vertical line through it. Inexpensive household-grade building levels, which we usually use for repairs, sometimes give a significant error. And since it is important for us to stick the first strip strictly vertically, check the accuracy of the line using a plumb line. He never lies, pointing straight down. If everything is fine, you will align the edge of the strip along this line.
If you still haven’t decided where to start gluing wallpaper and this is your first experience in this area, start with the wall that is least visible. For example, the one along which there is a closet. The first couple of pages will be difficult for you, but then you will better understand what’s what and there will be fewer flaws.
How to glue wallpaper on a wall
If glue, at the request of the manufacturers, is applied to the cut fragment, the smeared strip is folded so that the coated side is inside. To do this, fold the edges towards the middle, then fold them several more times. The folds are not pressed. Let them remain round. This is necessary so that all layers are saturated and the canvas fits well on the wall and also sticks without bubbles.
If you need to apply glue to the wall, coat an area slightly larger than the width of the wallpaper. The area under the ceiling, in the corner and near the floor is coated with a brush. Then the rules are general.
Take the cut strip and climb up the stepladder. Place the top edge a few centimeters on the ceiling, then align one of the edges along the drawn “start” line. Since wallpaper today is glued end-to-end, it doesn’t matter which edge.
Strictly attaching the side edge to the line, moving from this line to the other edge, glue the wallpaper in the ceiling area. Then, gradually moving down, you go down a little lower.
Extra centimeters on the ceiling are cut off. It is more convenient to do this with a paper knife and a large spatula. Press the paper well against the corner by running your hand. Then apply a spatula. Run a knife blade along its edge.
Trimming under the ceiling and near the baseboard
When gluing the canvases, movements are made from the center of the strip to the side and slightly downward, expelling the trapped air to the edges. Previously, this was done with a rag, but it works better and faster with a roller with an elastic nozzle (it is usually yellow color). There are practically no bubbles when working with it. But if the wallpaper is structural, with an embossed pattern, you can crumple it with a roller. Then take a wallpaper brush. It is wide and flat, with hard pile.
Wallpaper brush for quick pasting
Having reached the place where the strip is not yet glued, unroll the rest tightly and proceed according to the same pattern. First, you expose the edge, then use a roller or rag to expel the air, achieving a flat surface.
The second strip is glued in exactly the same way, with the only difference being that the canvas already on the wall will serve as a guide for gluing the edge. That’s why it’s important to glue it evenly, otherwise everyone else will also be mowed.
Secrets of pasting corners
The most difficult part to glue wallpaper correctly is in the corners. But this is only until you know the secret. You can try to do it simple at first. Wrap one of the parts onto the adjacent wall by 1-2 cm, and cut the second at the corner.
It’s not difficult to do, this method looks good. But on some wallpapers this stripe is very visible. For such a case, there is another way. Glue the canvases on both sides of the corner so that they wrap at least a little on the other side (2-3 cm is enough). Press well so that they fit exactly. to the walls and corner.
Then take a special cutter or large spatula. Press it in the corner, cut the wallpaper along its edge sharp knife. It is necessary to cut both sheets at the same time, so considerable effort may be required. To ensure a continuous cut, do not tear off the knife. Having stopped, move the spatula, which you rest against the blade and then continue the cut.
Having cut everything off, remove both cut strips and join the remaining strips in the corner. If the wallpaper was pressed well before trimming, the match is perfect, without any discrepancies.
How to glue wallpaper on outside corners? Almost in the same ways. In the first case, one of the stripes is wrapped around the corner by one or two centimeters (for thicker wallpapers, 2 cm is better, for thin ones, 1 cm is enough). The second strip is glued strictly along the corner. If this overlap is visible (usually on non-woven wallpaper), you will need to cut along the entire strip. In this case, we wrap more and cut vertically using the same spatula and knife. We remove the cut and glue the joint.
Meter-long wallpaper in the corners is glued in the same way as narrower ones. It happens that a narrow strip is needed in a corner, and the rest is cut off. If the wallpaper is without a pattern, it can be used somewhere, at least in another corner. With patterned canvases, sometimes it is also possible to attach them somewhere, but this is more difficult to do. That’s why they take patterned ones with a decent supply: just for such cases.
How to glue vinyl wallpaper on paper, how to remove imperfect corners in this video.
How to glue wallpaper near doors and windows
If the door or window is flush with the plane of the wall, problems usually do not arise. Wallpaper is cut along the door frame or along the edge of the trim. The canvas is cut at an angle of about 45° to the corner of the casing or frame. The cut parts are wrapped along the opening, bent and then cut off with scissors or a knife. It’s smoother and faster using a knife and spatula.
How to glue near the door
The option that causes more difficulties is when it is necessary to cover the slope of a door or window. When using paper wallpaper, the principle is again simple: glue the strip onto the slope, extending it 1 cm onto the wall. We glue a piece on top exactly along the cut of the window opening.
But this method will not work with wallpaper on non-woven fabric: the “overlap” is too visible. In this case, the strip is cut along the window opening with a small margin. Another fragment is glued on top with an overlap, cutting them exactly along the cut of the window opening. The glued piece is wrapped inside, onto the slope. Then they join as before.
It's difficult to explain in words. It’s more accessible in video. By the way, it also talks about wallpaper design arched openings there is a plot.
How to make joints invisible
Care must be taken to ensure that the joints of the canvases are invisible during gluing. You need to connect the canvases so that there is no gap between them, but also so that they do not overlap one another even by a millimeter. A perfect match must be achieved.
Because it's perfect smooth walls Unfortunately, we don’t see them very often; it turns out that the seam either creeps in a little or diverges. Your task is to move the canvas so that it becomes perfect and invisible. You can move the canvases with your hands - they can slightly stretch and contract. Due to this, you achieve the required match. If the resulting defect is too large and nothing can be achieved by shifting, the strip is peeled off to this place and, having corrected it as necessary, is glued again. Sometimes, if the seam is sticking out a little, rolling it with a special tapered roller can help.
With this technique, it turns out that first the edge is glued, which is joined, and then, from it, they begin to smooth out the rest of the surface of the canvas. If you have examined the seam and are satisfied with the result, take a clean rag and wipe it off any excess glue that may have come out during all these actions.
To learn how to glue meter-long vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven backing and how to make the joint invisible, watch the video.
Eliminating shortcomings
If there is a lack of experience, it may happen that bubbles appear on the walls after or during drying. You can remove them with simple steps. Take a large syringe, fill it with glue, pierce the bubble and inject some glue into it. Vinyl wallpaper, acrylic, paper - the top part is unimportant. The actions vary depending on the basis. If the wallpaper is paper-based, wait five to seven minutes; if it is non-woven, act immediately.
How to remove bubbles from wallpaper
Seams come apart quite often. Wallpaper may peel along the thread or baseboard. There are two ways to glue them. Use a brush and the remaining glue or buy a special one for seams. It comes in a tube and is applied precisely. And again, the procedure depends on the base. After wetting the paper, wait a while, then glue it, making sure the edges match.
Hanging wallpaper indoors is a very responsible and time-consuming undertaking, which very often requires the involvement of assistants, since it can be very difficult to cope with the tasks on your own. But if you take into account the following recommendations, you will be able to paste on high level even on your own.
In this article we will look at how to properly glue wallpaper with your own hands quickly and efficiently, and what you need for this.
To carry out high-quality wallpapering in a room, you need to prepare the following tools for wallpaper work, which will help you do all the work yourself at a high level:
- lightweight and at the same time practical stepladder;
- a clean plastic bucket for diluting glue;
- a construction ditch in which the glue will be located;
- paint roller for spreading glue;
- wallpaper ruler for measurements, which also serves for cutting fabrics;
- tape measure, pencil;
- a wallpaper brush or plastic spatula, which will help smooth out all the unevenness and bulges that arise when wallpapering;
- rubber roller for joints;
- sponge or gauze rag to collect excess glue and thereby create a clean finished surface.
This list is the necessary minimum, without which it is simply impossible to do. All of the listed tools for wallpapering can be purchased at any hardware store.
Preparatory stage
Answer the question: “How to properly glue wallpaper with your own hands?” in a nutshell, it’s unlikely that anyone will succeed. The gluing process is distinguished by certain actions, which must be treated with the utmost care and precision in order to ensure the proper outcome of the work.
Rules for choosing wallpaper for gluing
The selection of wallpaper is, perhaps, the very first stage. It largely depends on him appearance rooms after renovation, and the process of pasting itself. After all, gluing thin, low-quality canvases will be much more difficult.
It is important to choose the most suitable option wallpaper according to the design, color scheme, like, calculating with the help of the required number of rolls to completely cover the room.
The range of wallpapers at the moment is quite large, so you need to treat your choice with maximum responsibility, choosing for yourself exactly the option that suits you best.
Preparing the wall surface
The quality of finishing largely depends on how correctly it is carried out.
First, remove the old ones. wallpaper fabrics by using hot water, rags or brushes. Sometimes ordinary water is not enough, and the old coating can be easily removed with your own hands only using a soap solution.
After removing the old coating from the walls, all unevenness must be removed by applying a thin layer of putty. If this step is ignored, after wallpapering all sorts of defects can spoil the appearance.
Gluing technology
It is better to start this stage by preparing the glue, since you will have to wait some time for it to thicken. Wallpaper glue must be diluted in accordance with the existing instructions, which spell out all the details.
If glue mixture will be diluted incorrectly, wallpapering may be complicated by the appearance of extremely undesirable problems in the form of lumps or too liquid consistency.
While the glue thickens, you can move on to preparing the wallpaper, namely selecting a pattern and cutting strips to the required length.
After the materials have been prepared, you can begin gluing the surface.
Where to start gluing
Many people start wallpapering the room from the window the old-fashioned way. This is explained by the fact that the seams of overlapping paper wallpaper are less noticeable with this type of pasting.
Since modern vinyl, non-woven and many other types of wallpaper are glued end-to-end, you can start pasting from anywhere. However, there are still some rules and techniques that will help you find answers to the question of how to glue wallpaper in various unusual cases:
- When gluing vertically, it is best to start from the door or window slope, since it is very important here to glue the first strip strictly perpendicularly. In this case, it is better to additionally use a level or plumb line, which is quite possible to do with your own hands.
- It is recommended to start pasting from the corner only if the corners of the room are perfectly even.
- If you are covering a room with a large number of windows, openings, niches or projections, you need to start from the largest landmark.
- You can also paste a room from several lines. This technique is justified in the case of decorating a room with wallpaper large windows or the door. The wallpaper joint will be less noticeable if it is made above them.
How to glue correctly
During the gluing process, the wallpaper strips must be carefully applied to the wall and gradually glued from the center to the edges, while pulling diagonally. Next, using a dry cloth or paint roller, we expel all the air and excess glue from under the canvases.
Wallpaper can be glued overlapping or end-to-end. The first option is acceptable for thin paper sheets, but end-to-end is better.
Heating radiators are a problematic but important place when wallpapering
Every person who has at least once had to paper a room with their own hands has encountered the problem of finishing behind the radiator. This warmest and most comfortable place in the room creates certain inconveniences during the pasting process, so it is given Special attention and a smart approach.
If we're talking about In new buildings, where, as a rule, removable radiators and heating radiators are located, the question of “how to hang wallpaper behind them” is solved very simply: first, the battery is dismantled (and it is done very easily and quickly), then the wallpaper is glued, and after it dries The radiators are reinstalled. But what if it is not possible to remove the battery?
To properly paste the wall behind the heating radiator, it is recommended to cut the wallpaper into narrow strips and place it behind the radiator. In this case, the surface of the wall behind it must be additionally coated with glue.
In what cases is it necessary to glue wallpaper horizontally?
You can save a lot of time and effort when gluing the wall behind the battery by using horizontal gluing. Also, this wallpapering technology can be used in the case of combining several types of canvases, that is, if you decide to glue the wallpaper horizontally to divide the room into two horizontal halves, or if you want to emphasize some details in the design.
In any case, wallpapering must be done with high quality, avoiding the occurrence of air bubbles, scuffs and other damage and defects.
If it is not possible to paste wallpaper with a perfectly even horizontal stripe at the junction of two different canvases, you can resort to the following secret: paste border tape, which will hide the unevenness of the joint.
Important rules for wallpapering
In order for the wallpapering of walls to be done with really high quality, you should pay attention to the following rules for wallpapering:
- Wallpaper glue. It is important not only to choose correctly, but also to use the glue correctly, so read the instructions and rules for using the material in your work.
- Room temperature. You cannot paste walls indoors at low temperatures, since the glue will not be able to provide the desired effect, and the wallpaper will freeze. Also, you cannot paste over the walls and ceiling in a room with high temperatures, since in this case the completely opposite effect is ensured: drying out of the glue and the canvas itself.
- Measurements. It will be ugly if the canvas somewhere does not reach the right place, therefore, it is recommended to accurately measure the walls or ceiling in advance to avoid inconvenience in the future. Secret correct measurements consists of cutting strips a few centimeters larger than required. In the future, this reserve can be trimmed or hidden with a plinth or baguette.
- Selection of drawing. Many modern options Wallpaper needs a quality selection of patterns in order to create an attractive external effect with a precise pattern or design. If you don’t want to waste time on selection, you should choose wallpaper without a pattern. Significant advantage Such options are also due to the fact that, if necessary, you can re-glue the wallpaper not completely, but only one or several strips.
The question of how to stick wallpaper on a wall is not difficult. If you comply the right technology, then there will be nothing complicated in this process. In order to hang wallpaper well, you don’t have to have any special skills, and it won’t take much time.
Hanging wallpaper yourself does not require additional skills or a lot of time.
Before you start gluing wallpaper on the wall, you need to carefully check the quality of the material. In this regard, the following must be taken into account:
- Rolls of the same article must have the same lot number.
- Before you start marking and cutting the material, you should check it for defects.
Defective areas should not be cut out of the roll; it is better to exchange the entire roll in the store; the buyer has every right to do this. All materials and putty (everything that is used to prepare walls for gluing) must only be on water based. And only in this case can you count on high quality work. To apply wallpaper you will need the following tools:
- Tape measure (you will need it to measure ceilings and walls).
- Brush for applying glue (a wide paint brush will do).
- Roller for joints (if the wallpaper is fleecy, then a roller is not needed).
- Smoothing roller.
- Wallpaper scissors and wallpaper knife. You need to choose the sharpest knife, then the paper will not tear.
How to properly prepare a wall?
In order to stick wallpaper well, you should pay close attention to the preparation of the wall.
Preparing walls for wallpapering includes removing old coatings, leveling and sanding.
If we are talking about replacing wallpaper, then first of all you need to remove the old ones. In this case, it is recommended to use a narrow spatula, and the old wallpaper should be pre-moistened with water. To do this you need to use a brush. It happens that there are various cracks and chips on the walls, all this needs to be carefully puttied. It is very important to prepare the putty well, and you must follow the instructions on the packaging of the material. This material is applied with a wide spatula.
Then the walls must be thoroughly sanded. To prevent the formation of stains on the walls that may appear as a result of the interaction of the concrete surface and glue, the walls should be coated water-based paint. If the wallpaper is pasted on smooth surface, then such a surface can be given a certain roughness; this is done using sandpaper.
Before you stick wallpaper on the walls, you need to pay attention to whether the label says “counter sticking.” Such material should be glued in a special way, following the instructions.
Rules for wallpapering
How to work with difficult areas?
How are textile wallpapers applied to walls?
Textile wallpaper - expensive, quality material and requires the most thorough preparation of the surface before gluing.
If you plan to cover the walls with textile-coated wallpaper, you need to be very careful. This material is different good quality and high price, so the preparation of the walls must be more thorough. As for the surface of the walls, it must be perfectly dry, clean and smooth. If there are unevenness on the walls, then you need to get rid of them exclusively with gypsum putty. Before you start gluing wallpaper, you need to thoroughly coat the walls with water-based paint. You can also use a special lining made from waste paper, which is very convenient and has increased efficiency.
Textile wallpaper on a paper basis is glued as follows:
- Pieces of the required length are measured and then cut with scissors.
- The top of each piece must be carefully numbered, and all pieces are hung on the wall in numerical order.
- It is necessary to make sure once again that there is no contrast between the individual pieces in color and in the relief of the surface material.
- Pieces of wallpaper should be laid out on the table with the back side up, and then applied even layer glue, which should not be thick.
- It is necessary that the paper base is thoroughly saturated with glue, so the pieces of wallpaper covered with it must be put aside for about 5 minutes. After this, the wallpaper is glued to the wall, everything is done joint to joint. You need to start this process from the top, the piece is smoothed out, using a rubber roller. As for the length of the overlap, it must be at least 5 cm.
Modern textile wallpaper Most often they are produced on a non-woven basis, so they are much better than paper ones. They do not get dirty or stretch, and have a denser base, so you can adjust the wallpaper without the risk of damaging it. They are very easy to care for as they only require dry handling. To do this, use a soft brush or vacuum cleaner. If spots appear small size, then you can easily get rid of them using a damp, but not wet, sponge.
Wallpapering walls is, without a doubt, one of the most popular ways of decorating rooms. Draping rooms with fabrics and tapestries has been known since ancient times - even in the Middle Ages, there were entire communities - workshops of artisans and upholsterers, whose skills were highly valued and were constantly in demand. Over time, natural fabrics were mostly replaced by cheaper paper trellises, that is, they acquired approximately the appearance that we are accustomed to now.
Certainly, modern wallpaper are no longer produced only from paper - polymer components and various natural materials are actively used. But the most important thing is different: a convenient form of their release, good adaptation to various building structures, proven pasting technologies, high quality adhesive compositions- all this significantly facilitates the process of such finishing, and for this it is not at all necessary to be a professional craftsman. If there were any statistics on this matter, then, of course, it would show that the vast majority of families wallpaper their walls themselves. Naturally, not everyone succeeds in doing this right away - everyone has errors, and sometimes even damaged sheets, at first. But it’s good that there is the Internet - you can always find a hint on how to glue wallpaper correctly, avoiding the most common mistakes.
Which wallpaper should you choose?
Main types of wallpaper
The modern range of wallpaper is extremely wide. The buyer has the opportunity to choose a finish to suit every taste - according to material, color and relief design, operational and environmental characteristics and, of course, according to the degree of affordability. Let's take a brief look at the main types of modern wallpaper:
- Paper wallpaper is the “old-timer” among finishing materials. They attract with their low price, wide variety of designs, and relative ease of gluing them yourself. True, they do not differ in durability, as well as in resistance to moisture and, even more so, to wet cleaning, so they are more suitable for residential premises and are not recommended for finishing the walls of kitchens, hallways, bathrooms, etc.
One of the main advantages of paper wallpaper is the environmental friendliness of the material and good vapor permeability - the wall remains “breathable”.
However, paper wallpaper may vary. The simplest ones are single-layer wallpaper, or, in other words, “simplex” type. They are usually thinner than multilayer ones and are less resistant to all external influences, and when gluing them, special care is required - paper soaked in glue is easy to tear.
Two-layer (“duplex”) wallpaper is of higher quality. The bottom base layer is responsible for reliable fixation of the finish on the wall, and the top layer provides the necessary decorative effect. Such wallpapers are denser, the quality of printing on them is higher, with greater detail, and often they have, in addition to being colorful, also a relief embossed design.
Pasting such wallpaper on the wall is much easier, since it will not “creep” when wet or change its linear dimensions greatly.
Paper wallpaper can be smooth, have the already mentioned embossed embossing, or have a structured surface. During the production process, crushed wood waste is added between the two layers, which gives the surface a chaotic structural pattern. Typically, such wallpaper is produced in monochrome (most often white) and is intended for pasting walls for further painting. This approach is convenient because if the battles are pasted well, then the owners will have the opportunity to change the color that has become boring over time - the coating can withstand several cycles of repainting.
In addition, paper can be the base layer for other types of wallpaper - this will be discussed below.
- Non-woven wallpaper. Relatively recently, non-woven paper has become a serious “competitor” to ordinary paper. In fact, these two materials are “relatives” since both are made on the basis of natural cellulose, and the only difference is in the technology of its processing. Thus, non-woven fabric is also considered completely environmentally friendly, and is even used in medicine.
On that non-woven material Paint also applies easily, printing designs can be applied, and it can be embossed, although in terms of variety of designs, non-woven wallpaper is still inferior to paper wallpaper. Due to the fact that the material is less hygroscopic and much less susceptible to soaking and accompanying deformation, it has become an excellent basis for the manufacture of wallpaper. We can say that among all types of wallpaper, non-woven wallpaper is the easiest to apply, and even an inexperienced master should be able to cope with the task.
In other words, non-woven wallpaper, while maintaining the main advantages of paper wallpaper, is still a “step forward”, as it has many advantages, including greater durability and resistance to external influences. The only thing they seriously lose in is availability, since their price is already significantly higher.
Another one important feature, which can be considered both as a disadvantage and as an advantage. Non-woven wallpaper has a translucent structure, so that the background of the wall surface can even be seen through purely non-woven wallpaper. This is not always a good thing, but on the other hand, why not take the opportunity to give the wall an interesting shade!
Like paper, non-woven fabric can be used as a base layer for other types of wallpaper.
To be more precise, these are two-layer wallpaper on a paper or non-woven basis, with an external decorative coating made of polyvinyl chloride.
The outer polymer layer is not dangerous high humidity, abrasive loads, so the finished wall can be subjected to periodic cleaning, including using detergents. This, in principle, determines the scope of application of such wallpaper - they are ideal for the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, hallway. But for residential premises, especially for a bedroom or a child’s room, it is better not to use such finishing - the walls will not “breathe”, condensation may appear on them, and many may not like the light characteristic “aroma” of PVC.
Vinyl wallpaper is quite heavy, so a special composition is required for gluing it - this is always indicated on the packaging.
In terms of design, vinyl wallpapers are very diverse: from textured patterns with deep relief to multi-colored bright canvases, including those with photo printing or with a very reliable imitation of stone, wood, and other natural materials.
- Fabric wallpaper, also on paper or non-woven backing, is quite an expensive pleasure, although, we agree, it gives the walls a very unusual design. They can be made from linen, silk, jute textiles, felt, velor.
Fabric wallpaper gives the room a special coziness, and adds insulation and sound insulation to the walls. However, this finish attracts dust well, which can become firmly lodged between the fibers, so cleaning with a vacuum cleaner will have to be carried out with enviable regularity.
Pasting such wallpaper is the domain of experts, and beginners should not undertake such an activity - there is a high risk of ruining a very expensive material.
There are other, more “exotic” types of wallpaper - based on fiberglass or fiberglass, natural materials - cork, bamboo or palm fibers, quartz and metallized (foil) decorative coverings. We will not dwell on them, since the scope of application of such finishing is not wide, and independent sticker without relevant experience is simply impossible.
Many have heard about " liquid wallpaper" But this is already on a different plane altogether, and the finishing technology is closer to plastering work, rather than sticking sheet material.
What is “liquid wallpaper”?
This technology gives a very interesting effect of decorating walls. , and even how to make the material necessary for this with your own hands - read in the special publication of our portal.
Before purchasing wallpaper, owners must clearly decide which performance qualities of the material should prevail.
For residential premises, especially bedrooms and children's rooms, emphasis should be placed on the environmental friendliness of the material - it is necessary to maintain a healthy, breathing-friendly atmosphere and completely eliminate the possibility of allergic reactions. At the same time, it is a good idea to choose a material that can still be subjected to light wet cleaning at least occasionally.
But the kitchen requires coatings that will have to be washed frequently - greasy fumes from the stove will inevitably fall on the walls. For cramped hallways, wear resistance will probably come to the fore, for a bathroom - the hydrophobicity of the outer layer.
If there are a lot of people in the room sunlight, you should pay attention to wallpaper that is resistant to fading, otherwise ultraviolet rays will quickly ruin the original appearance of the finish. Pets can also make their own adjustments - for example, cats often show obvious indifference to the soft, pliable surface of vinyl wallpaper.
The style of decorating a room with wallpaper is a personal matter for the owners, although there are certain recommendations in this regard. They can be found on the pages of our portal.
When decorating rooms with wallpaper, you must adhere to certain canons
For example, decorating a room for sleeping requires a special approach, so it is important to know how to do it correctly. If desired, you can create an exceptionally cozy one. And another article from the portal will be useful to those apartment owners who want a wall in the room.
When buying wallpaper, you should not only listen to what the sales consultant tells you, but also independently read the labels on the packaging of the rolls. There must be pictograms that carry a lot of extreme useful information. Examples of such markings are shown in the table below:
| Type of marking icon | Decoding the meaning of the icon | Type of marking icon | Decoding the meaning of the icon |
|---|---|---|---|
| Low moisture resistance, only for the period of wallpapering |  | Wallpapering does not require matching the pattern | |
 | Regular wet cleaning of wallpaper is allowed. |  | Symmetrical arrangement of the pattern to be combined when sticking, horizontal alignment |
| Wallpaper with increased resistance to moisture, unlimited amount wet cleaning. |  | The pattern to be combined when sticking requires shifting the sheets by half the repeat, diagonal placement of the pattern | |
| Wear-resistant coating that allows wet cleaning with a brush. |  | Repeat - the vertical step of the pattern (numerator) and the amount of displacement of the sheets to align it (denominator) | |
 | Increased wear resistance of the wallpaper surface, unlimited amount of wet cleaning using brushes and detergents. |  | The wallpaper is glued overlapping and leveled by cutting through both layers |
 | Low resistance to ultraviolet sunlight. |  | Glue is applied to the wallpaper |
 | Wallpaper of satisfactory light fastness. |  | Glue is applied to the wall |
| Good resistance to ultraviolet rays. | Wallpaper with an applied adhesive layer, which is activated by soaking | ||
 | Wallpaper with high UV resistance. |  | Accompanying accessories may be offered for this type of wallpaper. Decoration Materials- borders, cornices, curtains, etc. |
 | Wallpaper with maximum resistance to ultraviolet puddles. |  | Duplex wallpaper with paper base and top embossed layer |
 | Wallpaper with increased surface resistance to mechanical stress (impact, scratching, etc.) |  | Wallpaper is removed entirely, dry. |
 | All sheets of wallpaper are glued in one direction. |  | The wallpaper peels off when removed from the wall. |
 | Reversible wallpaper - each sheet is turned 180°. |  | Removing wallpaper from the wall requires moisture. |
Greetings, dear readers of our blog “Do it yourself with us”.
Continuing the topic overhaul apartment today I want to describe in detail the process of how to properly glue wallpaper on walls with your own hands. Where do you need to start? What nuances and features should be taken into account in the work? What issues should you pay special attention to? It would seem that the question is not very difficult, but how many misunderstandings, disputes and disagreements arise when we begin the process itself.
Preparing the walls
First of all, let me congratulate you! How about what? With the fact that if you are interested in the issue of wallpapering, then the dirtiest, hardest work in the repair has already been completed. And you did it!!! Hundreds of kilometers spent shopping, looking for wallpaper, are already behind us. And here they are, the most beautiful in the world, rolled up in tight rolls, lying neatly against the wall!
But don’t rush, you have everything ready, and someone just needs to re-glue the wallpaper without affecting everything else. Therefore, we begin the process by removing all the old wallpaper. To do this, we carefully tear them off the wall; if the glue that holds them in place is weak, the work will go like clockwork, but if the wallpaper is glued well, you will have to work hard.
Correct wallpapering - diagram
If old ordinary paper wallpaper is difficult to remove, then we moisten it with water, simply rolling it with a wet roller or brush. Leave for 10-15 minutes and then carefully remove. Well, the most difficult case is when the wallpaper on top is covered with a waterproof film, the so-called “washable” wallpaper. Only help here mechanical method removal - using a spatula. We remove them by prying them off with a spatula, trying to touch the wall as little as possible.
The wallpaper has been removed, it is necessary to remove all the plaster, which does not hold well and practically falls out on its own, and to cut out the cracked and falling out seams. All areas of depressions, depressions and irregularities that appear must be puttied and subsequently primed after cleaning.
If you decide to level your walls, then after applying the finishing layer, do not forget to prime it. It is very important! Otherwise, when wallpapering, the walls will become dusty and crumble, which will lead to poor adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall. And worse, when applying glue to the wall, the plaster may begin to roll off. Use special mixtures sold in stores for this. And if you want to save money, you can use simple PVA glue, 2 cups of glue per bucket of water (from personal experience, excellent primer).
The whole point of preparation comes down to making the walls as smooth and even as possible. Take the time to inspect your walls. Remove all adhered specks and other small debris, as after wallpapering they will appear and will be unsightly. You should be especially careful in this regard when gluing thin wallpaper.
The walls must be strong, clean and dry.
We dilute the glue according to the instructions on the package. I used Quelyd "Special Vinyl" adhesive for vinyl and textile wallpaper.
It is diluted: 1 package per 4-4.5 liters of water and is designed for 6 rolls. For dilution, use a suitable container and measure into it. required amount liquid and stirring continuously, introduce dry glue.
Let it disperse a little for 15 minutes, then mix thoroughly again and you can glue the wallpaper.
We glue wallpaper beautifullyalong a straight wall in any room of the apartment
Step 1. We close all windows and doors to prevent drafts.
Step 2. We calculate how many vertical stripes we can fit on one wall. To do this, measure the length of the wall and divide the resulting size by the width of the wallpaper.
My wall length was 3.7 m (3700 mm), and the width of the wallpaper was 0.54 m (540 mm). Total 3700/540 = 6.85. Thus, I have 6 whole stripes and one with an undercut on my wall.
We cut 7 strips according to the height of the room plus 50 mm. for trimming from above and below.
Similar calculations can be made for the other three walls and wallpaper can be cut for the entire room at once.
Step 3. We mark the vertical line for the correct orientation of the first strip.
We retreat from the edge of the wall (I walked from the passage, yours may be from the corner) 500 mm (the distance is slightly less than the width of the strip, so that later, if the corner of the room is a little “cluttered,” you can correct it by trimming the first strip) and put a mark. To mark the vertical line of the strip stickers, we use a plumb line (you can just use a thread with a weight tied to it) or a building level.
We apply a plumb line to the wall and combine it with our mark made earlier. Mark a vertical line and connect the points with a straight line. Thus, we have a line from which we will begin gluing the second strip. We do not touch the first strip (near the aisles or in the corners) for now; we leave the outer strips of one wall for last. I used the same marking technology for .
Step 4. Apply glue to the wall the width of the strip and to the strip of wallpaper, evenly distributing it over the surface using a brush or roller.
Step 5. We glue 1 strip (or rather, we will have a second strip from the edge of the wall or corner, but we are not gluing the first one yet). To do this, starting from the top, carefully apply the strip to the wall. We align the edge of the strip with the drawn vertical line and, using a wide roller, carefully roll the strip to the wall, squeezing out the air trapped between the wall and the strip.
Step 6. We mark the extra length of the strip.
We slightly tear off the strip from the wall and carefully cut off the excess.
This operation can be done without tearing off the strip, but using a stationery knife to cut off the excess. Ultimately we get this picture.
In the future, the joint between the wall and the floor will be covered with a plinth. How to install plastic skirting board You can read it in detail with your own hands.
Step 7. We repeat all the procedures for applying glue to the wallpaper and the wall, and glue the second strip. Only now we join the edge of the strip to the already glued first strip.
Sometimes there are situations when the ceiling is not laid out perfectly straight, and you have to trim the top of the strip a little. To do this, we extend the glued strip slightly upward, creating an overlap on the ceiling.
Using a roller, roll the strip, and using stationery knife or scissors, cut off the excess wallpaper so that the top edge of the strip fits exactly into the corner.
We cut off the excess at the bottom, finally roll the glued strip, rolling it with a wide roller with movements from top to bottom and towards the edge of the strip, as if drawing a Christmas tree with a trunk in the middle of the strip. Using a narrow roller, we roll the seam between the strips and the upper and lower parts of the strip adjacent to the ceiling and floor.
We get this picture.
Step 8. Similarly, we glue all the entire strips to the end of the wall.
Step-by-step instructions for working with wallpaper correctly
Video: how to stick vinyl wallpaper yourself
Thanks to everyone who read the article to the end. Please note that here I have fully described the entire process of how to hang wallpaper with your own hands in accordance with my experience and ideas of this process. Surely there will be people who dedicated this large quantity time, have extensive experience and professional skills. Please write about your little tricks, secrets and features on how to glue wallpaper correctly in the comments. Help people who want to gain knowledge on this issue. After all, as they say, the more you give in this life, the more you receive in return.
Sincerely, Ponomarev Vladislav.
