Lilies: planting and care in open ground. Rules for planting lilies in the ground in spring: secrets of experienced gardeners

Interspecific lily hybrid - Algarve variety

Lily is a decoration of many gardens and is very popular among gardeners all over the world. Everyone dreams of growing lily flowers in their garden, planting and caring for which is not difficult and accessible, but requires preliminary preparation.

Selecting the variety and bulbs of lilies

Choosing planting material you need to make sure that it will match the chosen variety, is healthy, and suitable for growing in your region. In the matter of varietal compliance of lilies, one can only rely on the conscientiousness of the seller, but one can determine the species and quality of the bulbs by their appearance.

The best varieties of lilies for the garden

The genus of lilies is represented by more than 80 wild and cultivated species around the world. Varietal diversity there are even more impressive ones - about 8,000 varieties and hybrids, each of which is unique in its own way.

Throughout Russia, including in Siberia and the Urals, summer residents practice growing Asian hybrid lilies. These varieties are frost-resistant, grow quickly and do not require care. They bloom very profusely in June - July. A peculiarity of Asians is the lack of scent in flowers. The most famous varieties of this group are Marlene, Top Gunn, Lollipop, Yeti, Flore Pleno, Daira, Sorbet.

Oriental lily hybrids are more capricious when growing. They do not tolerate low temperatures well, which is why they are preferred to be grown in the southern part of Russia and in greenhouses in the Moscow region. They differ fragrant flowers of extraordinary beauty, with a diameter of up to 30 cm. The following varieties are classified as Oriental: Casablanca, Barbados, Cassandra, Mona Lisa, Double Surprise, Magic Star.

The Kudrevataya lily (Martagon) is famous for its unpretentiousness when growing. Martagon hybrids are widespread in the northern regions of our country, especially varieties such as Beyhouse, Markhan, Khaysona, Gay Light. At the base, the leaves of this type of lily are collected in a whorl, and the tall peduncle is strewn with many turban-shaped flowers.

The right variety is the key to easy care

That is why summer residents prefer tubular varieties. They are not affected by diseases and are unpretentious, and long, up to 1.5 m, peduncles with many large flowers of various colors will become exquisite decoration your flowerbed.

Determining the type of lily by bulb

Experienced gardeners know that each group of lily hybrids has its own requirements for the composition of the soil, the illumination of the site, and has its own frost resistance threshold. Thus, growing lilies in open ground of the Asian group and LA hybrids is possible everywhere, and oriental varieties do not tolerate wintering well; slightly alkaline soil is suitable for growing trumpet lilies, and slightly acidic soil is suitable for OT hybrids.

It will help to determine which group the lily belongs to. appearance bulbs:

  • White bulbs, sometimes with yellow and pink splashes, are characteristic of the Asian and Longiflorum (LA) groups;
  • Large yellow bulbs, less often purple have Oriental and Oriental (OT) lilies;
  • Trumpet lily bulbs are purple in color.

Choosing a healthy onion

When purchasing lilies, it is important to correctly determine the quality of planting material, since bulbs infected with fungal diseases will cause a lot of trouble and can infect flowers already growing in your flower beds.

  • The bulb should be elastic, juicy, without damage or signs of rotting.
  • Planting lilies whose bulbs have dried out and have no sprouts or root growth will not bring the desired result. They need very careful care, and it is unknown when flowering will occur.
  • The size of living roots should be at least 5 cm.
  • Bulbs with a diameter of less than 3 cm will begin to bloom only two years after planting. How larger bulb, the more magnificent the color of the lily will be. The optimal bulb diameter is 12-16 cm.

When to buy bulbs

Lilies are planted both in autumn and spring period. When choosing lilies that are planned to be planted in the fall, it is important to consider that they need to be planted as early as possible, leaving enough time before frost for rooting. Lilies, the cultivation and care of which were correct this year, begin to be dug up from the end of August. It is advisable to purchase bulbs during this period.

Be careful when buying bulbs!

Look out for sprouting bulbs that go on sale in the fall. Most likely, they were not planted in the ground in the spring, and they missed one life cycle. Once in the ground, they will immediately begin to grow and freeze out at the first sub-zero temperatures on the ground.

Buying lily seedlings

It is possible to plant lilies in summer, especially if we're talking about about Asian hybrids and Candidum. They are sold as seedlings with a clod of soil, often flowering. In this case, choosing a flower is much simpler - all its beauty is visible to the eye, and there is no chance of receiving off-grade planting material.

You should not buy lily seedlings after forcing them!

Often seedlings are sold in June and July after forcing. In this case, the bulbs went through their life cycle under artificial conditions. In open ground they will get sick and will only be able to bloom after a few years. The cost of such planting material is not high, which is a temptation for many novice gardeners.

Preparing soil and bulbs, rules for planting lilies

Right choice site, soil preparation and planting bulbs play decisive role in successfully growing lilies. If you approach these stages responsibly, lilies will grow well and delight you with flowering in the garden for many years.

Site selection

The choice of a site for cultivation largely depends on the type of lilies and their requirements for certain conditions:

  • Asiatic, oriental and trumpet lilies are preferred sunny areas no through winds. Partial shading will not affect the growth and flowering of these lilies. If the light in the garden is not the same throughout the day, it is preferable to plant lilies on the east side so that they receive as much sunlight as possible before lunch.
  • Curly lilies (Martagon) grow and bloom well in partial shade, especially when the leaf rosette is completely shaded and the flower stalks are in the sun.

To shade the bulbs during the summer, it is recommended to plant lilies near low-growing perennials (hosta, daylilies, nivaria). In this combination, the blooming lilies will stand out and look bright, and the bulb will remain in the shade, protected from overheating and drying out. In shady areas under trees and dense shrubs, lilies stretch out, their stems are thin, and flowering is sparse and late. Such plants often get sick and the bulbs die.

The best place to plant lilies

Preference for planting lilies should be given to elevated or flat areas. In the lowlands, the bulbs can get wet, be affected by fungal diseases, and in winter there is a high probability of them freezing.

Soil preparation

Lilies feel comfortable on garden or vegetable soil, well drained and without high groundwater. Peat or humus is added to sandy soils, and dense clay soil is lightened by adding coarse river sand.

Lilies grow best when planted and cared for in soil with moderate acidity.

  • The moderately alkaline soil reaction (pH 7.0-8.0) is favorable for growing Snow White and Curly lilies.
  • Asiatic and Oriental lilies grow well in soils with neutral acidity.
  • The Tubular Lily also has preferences - its varieties with pink flowers bloom brighter and more beautifully in slightly acidic soils (pH 6.0-6.5).

How to regulate acidity

To lower the pH level, add lime, chalk, ash or dolomite flour. Heather soil, peat, acetic acid or colloidal sulfur will help increase acidity.

The soil for lilies is prepared in advance: in the fall - for spring planting, in the summer - for autumn planting. They dig it up to a depth of 35-40 cm, turning over the layers. Before digging, fertilizers are added to the soil per m²:

  • 1 bucket of humus, rotted manure or compost. Adding fresh manure is not permissible, since lilies in such soil will rot;
  • 1-2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, urea, nitroammophoska;
  • 1 liter of solution wood ash, except for those areas where it is planned to plant Martagon and Candidum lilies.

Adding this amount of fertilizer to the soil will provide the supply of nutrients the lilies need to thrive. good growth And abundant flowering.

Preparing bulbs for planting

Pre-planting preparation of lilies is necessary to minimize damage to the bulbs by fungal diseases. Dried onions are pre-soaked in water room temperature few hours.

Pickle the bulbs for 15-20 minutes in one of the solutions:

  • pink solution of potassium permanganate;
  • 2 g of karbofos per 1 liter of water;
  • 2 g of foundationazole per 1 liter of water;
  • special preparation for treating bulbous plants before planting Maxim or Vitaros.

After processing, the bulbs are dried in the shade.

Planting lilies in the ground

Early autumn planting of lilies in open ground is considered the most successful. Planted during this period, they will have time to take root well before frost and on next year guaranteed to bloom. The exceptions are Oriental lilies and OT hybrids. They bloom late; by September the bulbs are not yet ready for planting, and when planted in October they will not have time to take root. Therefore, they are planted in the spring, when the soil warms up well.

The depth of planting the bulbs depends on several factors:

  • Bulb size. The larger the bulb, the deeper it needs to be planted. The minimum depth is 10 cm. Lily bulbs should not be buried deeper than 25 cm in the ground either. Baby bulbs are sown in furrows 5-7 cm deep.
  • Soil composition. On heavy soils, bulbs should not be deepened too much.
  • Variety of lilies. For short trees, the planting depth is about 10 cm, for tall trees - 15-20 cm.

A distance of 20 cm is maintained between the bulbs. Lilies of the Asian group grow quickly, so when planting, a distance of at least 30 cm is maintained between them. Pictures of multi-colored lilies, planted with 5-7 bulbs in one wide hole, look beautiful.

Planting lilies in autumn and spring is carried out in pre-prepared holes, on a “cushion” of 5-7 cm of river sand. The roots are evenly distributed, after which the bulbs are covered with soil and watered abundantly.

Spring planting material can often be found with a crooked sprout. There is nothing terrible about this, but you need to place the onion in the hole so that the top of the sprout is vertically above the ground. The bulb itself will take the desired position as the lily grows.

If it is necessary to obtain a large number of children to propagate lilies, the bulbs are planted “on the side”. In this position, a nest of bulbs forms faster, and the number of daughter bulbs will increase.

It is advisable to mulch lily plantings, but separate mulch is used for each varietal group:

  • Asian, Oriental, LA and OT hybrids are mulched with bottom peat, sawdust, pine needles;
  • Plantings of Snow-White, Tubular and Curly varieties are mulched leaf humus, mowed grass, and also add ash.

Features of summer planting

Asian and LA hybrids can be planted in summer. This also applies to Snow White lilies, whose bulbs are dormant in July-August. Lilies are planted in July using the transshipment method.

The bulbs must be dug up with a clod of earth. Prepare a volumetric well (50x50x50 cm) in advance, into which 1 tbsp is added. a spoonful of superphosphate and mix it with the soil. The bottom of the hole is covered with river sand in a layer of 5-7 cm, after which a seedling is placed and sprinkled with earth mixed with humus or rotted manure. The seedling is watered abundantly and, if it is tall, tied to a support. Existing buds and flowers are cut off so that the lily spends all its energy on rooting.

Planting lilies in summer video

Caring for lilies in summer

Growing lilies in the country is not burdensome. Caring for them comes down to regular moistening and loosening of the soil, as well as periodic application of fertilizing.

Watering

The soil under lilies should be moderately moist throughout the growing season. Stagnation of moisture will lead to rotting of the bulbs, while short-term drought is tolerated by lilies without pain. No watering for a long time will lead to withering lower leaves and poor development of the peduncle.

The basic rule for watering lilies

Lilies experience the greatest need for moisture in the spring, during active growth. In summer, they are watered less abundantly, moistening the soil to the depth of the bulbs. Surface watering will not bring any benefit. In this case, the plant will feel thirsty, and a crust will form on the soil surface that does not allow air to pass through well.

It is advisable to water the lilies before lunch at the root, avoiding water getting on the leaves. During flowering, the amount of watering can be reduced. It is enough to shed the soil 25-30 cm deep, once every two weeks.

Loosening the soil

Garden lilies, cared for and planted correctly, require constant access of air to the root system. Loosen the soil very carefully, trying not to damage the additional stem roots located near the surface of the soil. At the same time, weeds are removed.

During heavy rains, sand is washed out of the soil, it becomes clogged and hardens. In this case, river sand is poured under the lilies, which during loosening mixes with the soil and makes it lighter.

Mulching the plantings with straw or wood shavings will help make caring for lilies easier in the summer. You can also maintain constant soil moisture and protect the bulbs from overheating by planting low-growing perennials near the lilies.

Top dressing in summer

If you have an automatic watering system set up, and the lilies are planted in prepared soil, and virtually no care is required for the lilies, the plants need a one-time application of fertilizer in the first year.

Complex fertilizer is added to the flowers during budding, using ammophoska and nitroammophoska in equal quantities, at the rate of 30g/m². Dissolving them in 10 liters of water.

Caring for lilies after flowering

Many gardeners have a question about how to care for lilies after flowering. It is during this period that the plant is most susceptible to disease, since all its strength is spent on the peduncles.

Watering

After flowering, the watering rate is increased, trying to ensure constant soil moisture at a depth of 25-30 cm. From the second half of August, watering is completely stopped, since for the bulbs to winter successfully, the soil must be dry.

This applies most of all to Eastern and OT hybrids. After flowering, the soil is thoroughly dried. In September, the flower beds should be covered plastic film so that it remains dry during prolonged autumn rains and thaws in winter period. Remove cover in early spring after the snow melts, during the application of fertilizers.

Feeding

After flowering, lilies need phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Superphosphate and potassium sulfate are used as top dressing at 10 and 30 g per m², respectively. Dilute them in 10 liters of water and water the lilies with this solution at the root, after preliminary watering clean water.

Lily bulbs do not have a protective shell, like tulips and other bulbous plants, so apply organic fertilizers need to be very careful. Nutrient solutions based on manure or slurry are prepared in low concentration: 0.3-0.5 liters per bucket of water. Oversaturation of the soil with organic fertilizers will lead to rotting and subsequent death of the bulb.

For wintering lily bulbs, the same fertilizing as in summer is done in the spring when the snow melts. Fertilizers are applied dry to the crust melted ice and reach the roots of the bulb gradually, stimulating its awakening, growth and development.

Trimming

Withered flowers are torn off from the peduncle. You cannot delay this, since seed boxes will begin to form on the peduncle, and the plant will spend all its energy on their development.

Caring for lilies after flowering includes trimming the stem. It is carried out only after the leaves and peduncle have completely dried out, since they are a conductor of nutrients to the bulbs. In September, the stem is cut into a stump 10-15 cm long. In late autumn, in October or November, this stump is carefully pulled out so that cold air does not enter the bulb through it.

You need to cut blooming lilies for bouquets correctly!

The peduncle is cut at an acute angle so that the remaining leaves completely or partially cover it. An oblique cut is necessary to allow water to drain during rain. If the cut is made even, a large amount of moisture will flow through it to the bulb, which will cause it to rot.

Protecting lilies from diseases and pests

Lilies can be affected by pests, the most dangerous of which are:

  • Onion root mite. Prevention and protection - planting healthy material; dressing the bulbs before planting with karbofos (5 g/1 l of water for 30 minutes); heat treatment of the bulbs in water at 50 ºС for 5 minutes.
  • Onion leaf beetle. Control - timely removal of weeds; collecting beetles; treatment with chlorophos (10 g per bucket of water)
  • Purple owl. Control - timely removal of weeds and plant debris.

Often lilies, planted and cared for in violation of the rules of agricultural technology, are affected by fungal diseases such as fusarium, rust, gray mold. In this case, the bulbs begin to rot, and the leaves become stained and wither. If the development of fungi is left to chance, the plant will die.

To combat fungal diseases, the bulbs are treated with fungicides before planting: Fundazol, Topsin, Euporen, Bavistin. The same preparations are sprayed on plants during the growing season if the first signs of disease appear.

Viral diseases of lilies are much less common, but effective means There is currently no way to combat them. Infected plants are removed and destroyed off-site.

Caring for lilies after flowering video

Features of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals

Today, lilies are successfully grown in Siberia and beyond the Urals. Asian and LA hybrids, Martagon lilies and tubular hybrids are cultivated there. Some varieties of OT hybrids and oriental lilies are able to winter in these regions under cover. Planting and care in the Urals and Siberia differ little from growing lilies in regions with a warm climate.

A special feature of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals is covering them for the winter. The flowerbeds are insulated with humus, a layer of at least 7 cm, or fallen leaves - about 20 cm. Oriental lilies and OT hybrids are additionally covered with plastic film or agrofibre so that the soil remains dry in winter. Curly lilies calmly endure winters in Siberia without shelter.

The cover of lilies is removed immediately after the snow melts so that the sprouts do not appear early and freeze out during late frosts. If the lilies have sprouted and the threat of frost has not passed, they are covered with spruce branches or straw.

Transplanting and dividing bulbs

In order for a lily, which does not require special skills to be planted and cared for in open ground, to develop and bloom well, its bulbs must be regularly transplanted to a new location. Otherwise, their stems become sluggish and the flowers become smaller. The frequency of necessary transplantation depends on the type of lilies being grown:

  • Curly and American lilies can be grown for up to 15 years without replanting.
  • Oriental and Long-flowered lilies, OT and La hybrids are replanted every 3-5 years.
  • Asiatic and Trumpet lilies can be replanted every year as they grow vigorously.

Transplantation in autumn

The optimal time to transplant a lily, the care of which was organized according to all the rules, is early autumn. Bulbs are dug up in August or early September, a month and a half after flowering. By this time, they will have accumulated a sufficient amount of nutrients and will quickly take root in a new place. When late autumn planting there is a high probability that the bulbs will not have time to take root and will die in the frozen ground.

The children are separated from the bulbs dug up for transplantation. Often they fall off on their own, but if the daughter bulbs are tightly packed in the nest, they are cut off with a clean knife, making sure to preserve part of the bottom on each bulb. Dividing the bulbs is the easiest and most reliable way to propagate lilies, which preserves all the maternal qualities of the variety.

Dry scales with signs of rotting are removed from the bulbs, and roots that are too long are cut off. They are treated with antifungal drugs: 1% solution of potassium permanganate, 2% iodine, 1% iron sulfate, foundationazole. Then dry in a shaded, well-ventilated place.

It is advisable to plant lilies in a new place within a week after digging, so that the bulbs do not dry out. Small daughter bulbs are planted separately for growing to a depth of 5-7 cm and after a year or two they are replanted permanent place.

Spring transplant

Oriental and OT hybrids of lilies are replanted in the spring, since they bloom only by the end of August. Their bulbs are dug up in late autumn, dried and stored in a cool place. Place them in plastic bags or plastic containers with ventilation holes and sprinkle them with damp sawdust or moss to protect them from drying out. Bulbs are planted in a permanent location when the threat of return frosts has passed.

Spring replanting is also acceptable when growing other types of lilies, before the appearance or at the very beginning of the development of sprouts. It is important to take into account that when transplanting in spring, lilies develop rapidly and the appearance of early shoots can lead to their death due to late frosts.

Transplanting lilies in summer

Snow White lilies, whose vegetation cycle has its own characteristics, need summer replanting. They enter the resting phase in July-August, and by September they begin to form a new rosette. When replanting, there is no need to cut off the stem, but it is advisable to shorten the long roots to 7-10 cm. After completing the procedure, lilies should be watered generously, stimulating the growth of new roots.

Dividing and planting lilies in July is also possible when growing Asiatic lilies. The dug nests are divided into separate stems with a bulb and immediately planted in a new place. In this case, the buds and existing flowers are cut off.

Bottom line

Even a novice florist can grow lilies in the country, provided that he follows the rules for caring for them. It is important to remember that depending on the species, lilies need different conditions, the observance of which will guarantee abundant and colorful flowering.

  • Type: lily
  • Flowering period: May, June, July, August, September, October
  • Height: 20-250cm
  • Color: white, yellow, orange, red, spotted, two-color
  • perennial
  • Winters
  • Sun-loving
  • Moisture-loving

Lily is an amazingly beautiful flower with a pleasant aroma that has been revered in many cultures. The Greeks attributed it to divine origin, believing that the lily grew from the milk of Juno, the mother of the gods. And when literally translated from Greek, “li-li” sounds like “white-white.” The Romans revered it as the main flower at festivals glorifying the goddess of spring, Flora. Christians and Jews decorate their sacred altars with it, considering the lily a symbol of purity. This flower can be found on the coats of arms of noble families. different countries. Today, lilies decorate many parks and suburban areas, performing bright accent in any flower garden. One of mandatory conditions The lush flowering of these marvelous plants is ensured by proper planting of lilies and caring for them.

According to the international classification, these beautifully flowering perennial bulbous plants are divided into 9 groups:

  1. Asian– include 5 thousand varieties. They are unpretentious and winter-hardy; the flowers do not smell.
  2. Curly– there are 200 varieties. The name was given due to the inflorescences resembling a candlestick with drooping heads.
  3. Snow-white– include 30 varieties. They have a wonderful aroma and may have a pale yellow color. Very capricious.
  4. American– there are 140 varieties. The flowers are very original in bright exotic colors, often decorated with two-tone black specks. Quite picky.
  5. Long-flowered– have an elongated bud shape with a direction to the side or down. They are unusually fragrant. IN garden conditions often suffer from viral diseases, are mostly grown as greenhouse crops.
  6. Tubular– have a characteristic flower shape, reminiscent of an elongated gramophone, assembled from dense wax petals. They are capricious and need shelter for the winter.
  7. Orientals (eastern)– a large group of 1300 varieties. They are capricious, require warmth, and are often affected by diseases.
  8. Interspecific hybrids– combine the best qualities of individual groups. Extremely beautiful and exotic. Among the varieties obtained as a result of crossing, the most popular are LA hybrids, OT hybrids and LO hybrids with large flowers with a diameter of up to 25 cm for forcing.
  9. Natural views– play a key role in the creation of new varieties.

Under natural conditions these herbaceous plants widespread in temperate latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere: the Mediterranean, southeastern Central America, Japan, China. Asian lily hybrids are most widespread in mid-latitudes.

Lilies are one of the most beautiful representatives of the bulbous genus. They belong to the daylily family and are relatives of onions, hazel grouse, and tulips

Asians come from natural species of Siberian lilies, such as Daurian and Tiger, and therefore are the most winter-hardy and adapted to less favorable climatic conditions. Other groups of lilies, such as oriental, trumpet or curly, require more careful care.

Among Asian hybrids, the varieties that are most decorative are:

  • "Marlene" - petals of a soft pink hue. Famous for its abundant flowering.
  • "Landini" is a spectacular dark burgundy beauty more than a meter high.
  • "Aphrodite" - double flower with pink petals.

Of the old and time-tested varieties, it is also worth highlighting: “Enchantment” with flowers of a rich red-orange hue, “Destin” with delicate lemon-colored petals yellow color, "Peprica" ​​with bright red flowers.

Worthy representatives of the Oriental group can be considered: “Mona Liza” with graceful soft pink flowers, “Tiber” with lilac flowers framed by a white border, the snow-white beauty “Siberia”

Selection of planting material

When choosing planting material, it is important to take into account the climatic features of the area, since not all lilies are able to safely tolerate temperature fluctuations.

When purchasing planting material, carefully inspect the bulb to see if there are any spots or signs of rot on it. These signs indicate that the plant is affected by diseases. The bulb should be evenly colored, the scales should fit tightly to each other.

Labeling will help determine the varietal identity of a plant:

  • The first Roman numeral indicates the fleur-de-lis group;
  • The second number indicates the position of the flower (“a” - pointing up, “b” - to the side, “c” - down);
  • The letter through the fraction indicates the shape of the flower (“a” - tubular, “b” - cup-shaped, “c” - flat, “d” - turban-shaped).

Until planting, it is better to store the bulbs in a cool place, sprinkled with sand, sawdust or damp moss. Some people use the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for this purpose.

For spring planting, choose bulbs on which sprouts have already sprouted and short white roots have begun to grow.

In the case when the bulb begins to germinate ahead of time, it is advisable to plant it in flower pot, leaving in a warm room. It is worth replanting into open ground after frost.

Choosing a landing site

When planning where to place an exotic beauty on the site, you should focus on its group affiliation. Tubular, Asian and oriental lines are most decorative only in well-lit areas.

Lilies that have adventitious roots on the underground part of the stem feel comfortable in partial shade. These include varieties of the group of curly lilies. It is advisable to place them so that the root part is shaded and the inflorescence is illuminated sun rays.

Lily is a heat-loving plant that prefers well-lit areas, securely protected from gusts of wind by a “screen” of green foliage.

Lilies with large flowers look impressive when used alone. When planting small-flowered lilies, to obtain an expressive aesthetic effect, it is better to form small groups, placing them at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. Against the backdrop of the lush foliage of other perennials, bright, graceful flowers will stand out, creating a magnificent picture.

Areas located on a slight elevation are ideal for planting flowers. This helps prevent stagnation of rainwater, which often causes plants to be damaged by pathogens. Waterlogged soils are destructive for fastidious beauties. Conditions on clayey and heavy loamy soils can be improved by installing drainage. To do this, ditches are laid, placing them at a slight slope. The bottom of the ditches is lined with a layer of crushed brick or small crushed stone, sprinkled with river sand on top and covered with earth.

To ensure that the soil at the root area of ​​the flower is in the shade and does not overheat under the sun's rays, it is better to plant daylilies, bells and hosts in the immediate vicinity. Their spreading foliage will cover the surface of the earth, creating optimal conditions for the development of fastidious beauties.

Proper soil preparation

The right soil is 80% of success in growing lilies. Regardless of the group affiliation of bulbous plants, they all prefer to grow in rich soils.

On enriched and well-drained peat soils, varieties of the American group and oriental hybrids develop well.

Humus is considered the best fertilizer for lilies. But it should be applied with caution: if there is an excess of nutrition, the plants begin to “fatten”. This provokes their slowdown in development, decreased resistance to disease and decreased frost resistance. The optimal ratio of humus introduced is 7-8 kg per 1 sq.m.

The introduction of weakly decomposed manure containing pathogenic microflora with pathogenic plants can have a detrimental effect on plants.

The soil for these beautifully flowering herbaceous plants must contain a sufficient amount of nutrients, because in one place the plant can live from 3 to 5 years. When digging the soil, it is filled mineral fertilizers, which include nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. They are applied at the rate of 100 grams per meter of area.

Since the roots of plants go quite deep, the soil is dug up before planting, going 30-40 cm deep. To drain heavy clay soil sand is added to its composition

Most members of the daylily family do not tolerate acidic soils, preferring slightly alkaline and slightly acidic soil compositions. Only varieties of the eastern group feel comfortable in acidic, well-drained soil. Asians and LA hybrids prefer neutral and humus-rich soils, and trumpet lilies are most decorative on poor, slightly alkaline soil with admixtures of ash and sand.

Helps reduce soil acidity:

  • Wood ash - it is added at the rate of 150-200 g per 1 sq.m;
  • Chalk - when digging, add 300-500 grams per meter of area.

Processing of planting material

Before planting, the bulbs are inspected, discarding diseased specimens: damaged tissue is removed, rotten scales and dead roots are cut off.

The inspected material is washed under pressure for 20-30 minutes. Then, in order to prevent the development of fungal diseases, they are first kept in a solution of potassium permanganate, prepared in a proportion of 5 g per 10 liters of water, and then in a solution of the drug foundationazole. If necessary, they can be treated with an insecticidal solution based on chlorophos and one percent phosphamide.

The root system of these plants dries quite quickly. Therefore, there is no need to dry them after soaking.

Choosing a planting time

The optimal time for planting is after the plants have flowered. This is the period from late summer to mid-autumn. If you purchase bulbs in early spring, planting can be done as soon as the soil thaws and dries. Late spring planting is risky because young shoots can be damaged.

Spring planting It is also more suitable for late-flowering varieties whose bulbs form slowly. These include LO hybrids and varieties of the eastern group: Rio Negro, White Heaven, Rialto, Marco Polo.

When planting plants, you should be guided by the rule that large bulbs with a diameter of 8-12 cm are planted to a depth of 25 cm, and small ones - to a depth three times the size of the bulb itself.

The only exceptions are Khalntsedonskaya, Belosnezhnaya and Testaceum. They form a rosette of leaves above the ground, and therefore the layer of soil above them should not exceed 2-3 cm.

When planting bulbs in heavy types of soil, the bottom of the planting holes is covered with a 5 cm layer of sand. To protect them from voles, along the inner walls landing pit lay out wire mesh.

The bulb is placed at the bottom of the hole, placed on an improvised sand “pillow”, and the roots are straightened. They should not be twisted or bent upward. The planting site is marked with a peg and sprinkled with earth, lightly compacted. The hole is watered abundantly with settled water and covered with bark mulch.

Lilies are very sensitive to drying out roots. To prevent the bulbs from becoming weathered while the hole is being prepared, it is better to wrap them in a wet napkin or hide them in a box with damp peat. Tender young shoots are afraid of temperature changes

To protect young shoots, cover the planted bulbs plastic bottles with cut out bottoms. For this purpose, it is better to use bottles with wide walls with a volume of 2-3 liters.

Subtleties in the care of an exotic beauty

How to care for lilies? To minimize the maintenance of these beautiful flowering plants, you must follow a number of recommendations:

  • During the season, feed the plants with complex fertilizers and ash at the rate of 50 grams per meter of area. Fertilizing is carried out in three stages: in early spring, at the stage of bud formation and after flowering. For spring root feeding, the following are suitable: ammonium nitrate (40 g per 10 l), nitroammophosphate (50 g per 10 l), a solution of fermented mullein in a ratio of 1:10.
  • Ensure timely watering. Although the lily does not like excess moisture, it needs frequent watering on particularly dry days. You need to water at the root, being careful not to wet the leaves. Accidentally falling drops of water can serve as a kind of lenses, causing sunburn.
  • Mulching the soil. Overheating of the soil, which disrupts the flow of biological processes, is also very harmful for bulbous plants. This can be prevented by mulching the soil. natural materials light shades (cut grass, straw, sawdust).
  • Pest control. The lily beetle and lily fly are dangerous for the above-ground parts of plants. You can get rid of pests by collecting the larvae by hand and spraying the stems with preparations such as “Thunder”, “Grizzly”, “Fly-eater”.
  • Garter of stems. High grades with thin stems must be tied to supports, thereby preventing them from breaking and lodging.
  • To prevent wilted inflorescences from spoiling the picture after flowering, they should be removed in a timely manner. Peduncles are removed at the end of the season.
  • After the end of the growing season, plant stems need to be cut and burned so that winter time they did not serve as a conductor of cold to the bulb.
  • For the winter, it is advisable to cover garden lilies with leaf soil, sawdust or spruce branches coniferous species. Only Asian and LA hybrids do not need shelter.

Lilies are planted, separating the daughter bulbs, once every three years, a month and a half after the end of flowering. By this period, they had increased their mass and gained the greatest strength.

Lilies are planted, separating the daughter bulbs, once every three years, a month and a half after the end of flowering. By this period, they had increased their mass and gained the greatest strength.

Slowly growing varieties of Caucasian origin are best planted only after 5-6 years. Asian varieties can be replanted even in summer. The main thing is to dig up the plants with a garden fork along with a lump of earth, preserving the root system.

When transplanting, baby bulbs are carefully separated from the stem and planted in seedling beds for growing. Immediately after planting, they are sprinkled with compost or manure humus, forming a layer 3-4 cm thick. They will form full-fledged bulbs in the second or third year.

Daylily - a lily for the lazy

It’s not for nothing that breeders nicknamed these unpretentious and disease-resistant perennials “lilies for the lazy.” And the statement that the more beautiful the flower, the more capricious it is, does not apply to this plant. Daylily grows well in any garden soil, feeling comfortable both in bright sun and in partial shade.

Not inferior in beauty to garden lilies are their closest “relatives” - daylilies, but unlike finicky beauties they are very easy to care for

Planting and caring for daylilies takes a minimum of time and effort. And the plant begins to delight with flowering in the first year of planting. These perennial plants prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil. They are able to grow on depleted soils, but are most decorative on loose loams rich in organic matter. They are tolerant of infrequent watering, but, like lilies, do not tolerate stagnant water.

Combining well with ornamental grasses and beautifully flowering annuals, they perfectly mask the slow decline of spring-flowering bulbs.

Daylilies can become a bright decoration of any flower garden. At correct selection species having different period It will not be difficult to extend the flowering of daylilies throughout the entire season.

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Another undisputed garden beauty, the lily, is worthy of our attention. And so that such luxurious flowers appeared in your garden, today we are devoting a separate topic to them. And we’ll find out: When to plant lilies in open ground in the spring, how to plant lilies with sprouts in the spring, at what depth to plant and at what distance to plant lilies.


Planting a lily should begin with preparing the soil:

We choose loose soil with a high sand content for good lily growth. The ratio is not less than 1:2.

You can add peat and some wood ash to the soil.

For such varietal groups as: Asian hybrid, LA-hybrid, OT, LO, LOO and Orientals, acidic soils are more suitable.

Neutral soils are suitable for trumpet or Orleans lilies and candidum lilies.


If you plant lilies of the following groups: Tubular, Orleans or candidum in acidic soil, then they are quickly oppressed and die.

At what depth to plant lilies in spring?



Lilies can be planted from late April to May. By this time the soil is sufficiently warmed up.


Lilies are planted as follows:

If there are large sprouts, the bulbs are planted to a depth of 20 cm

Small bulbs 10 -15 cm

How to plant lilies with sprouts in spring


Bulbs with long sprouts (15-20 cm) can be planted in horizontal holes to a depth of 10 cm. In this position, the sprouts will “return” to a vertical position in the ground for 2-3 weeks, and during this time the threat of frost will pass and the bulb will take root. The sprouts will be protected, not frostbitten, and this is a guarantee of lily flowering.


Deep planting of lily bulbs is good protection from returning spring frosts.

Feeding lilies in spring



Lilies need to be fed regularly so that they have enough strength to grow large green mass and give lush flowering. And even after this, strength and energy are needed to prepare for the next flowering season.


So we feed:

The first feeding is carried out at the moment the leaves open. Soil temperature 8-10 degrees. It makes no sense to feed before - in cold soil the roots do not work and do not absorb nutrition.

First feeding: calcium nitrate.

Second feeding after 10-15 days: calcium nitrate.

Subsequent (also after 10-15 days) fertilizing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

7-10 days before flowering we feed with potassium magnesia.

After finishing, one or two feedings with potassium monophosphate.


All fertilizing is carried out in liquid form, using highly soluble fertilizers.


A good way to prevent lily diseases is to regularly spray the growing stems with oxychome. This protects against botrytis. Unfortunately, if this disease already appears on the leaves of the plant, it is almost impossible to cure it.

- This is a very beautiful flower from the genus Liliaceae, which includes perennial herbs that grow from bulbs.

Lily is famous for its diversity color range, delicate aroma and refined shape of the petals.

Did you know? Lily is an open ground flower. For it to show all its grace and beauty, it needs to be grown in the garden.

When to plant a lily, choosing a planting location

For such a delicate and sophisticated flower, planting and care play a huge role.

It is necessary to plant lilies at a clearly designated time, choose the most appropriate place, plant strictly according to one of the schemes, know at what distance to plant lilies and what is the optimal depth for the type of your lily.

Important! Particular strictness in compliance with the rules is required exotic varieties flower.

In order for the lily to bloom well and please the eye for many years, when choosing a site you need to pay attention to:

  • amount of sunlight;
  • windiness;
  • soil temperature;
  • soil moisture.
To make the final decision, start from the variety of your lily.. For example, Asiatic and trumpet lilies are ideal open spaces, but they will also feel comfortable in a little shade.

The main thing is that this shadow is not from trees (their shadow is too strong, and the soil in such places is dried out). In such a place, the drooping lily, orange, Daurian, pleasant, monochromatic, long-flowered, dwarf and Chalcedonian will perform well.


Unlike the listed lilies, Japanese, Carniolian, curly, two-yard, calloused, beautiful, magnificent and reddish are best planted in partial shade. These lilies like their upper part to be in the sun and their lower part to be in the shade.

To achieve such a balance, other plants, such as grass, are planted next to the lily, which will cover the stems and provide it with coolness.

Features of planting lilies

A reasonable question arises: how to plant lilies correctly? You should start by digging up the soil at the planting site and adding sand to it. For better development you need to fertilize the soil with humus or compost.

Important! The ratio of sand and fertilizer is 1:1 (1 bucket of sand/fertilizer per 1 sq.m.)

How to determine planting depth

Before planting, you need to soak the lily bulbs in a manganese solution for about half an hour. After the bulbs have been taken out, they must be immediately planted in the already prepared holes. Planting depth depends on the size of the bulb. If the bulb is large, then the hole should be at least 20 cm, and for small ones 10 cm is enough.

Important! Lilies should be planted in already cultivated soil.

Flower planting scheme

Several schemes are used for planting lilies:

  • single line tape fit. The distance between the bulbs in the row should be 5-15 cm, and between the rows - at least 50 cm;
  • double line tape fit. The distance between the bulbs is from 15-25 cm, at least 70 cm between rows. This type of planting is suitable for medium-sized types of lilies;
  • three-line tape fit. The distance between lines and bulbs is 15 cm, and between rows is 70 cm.

How to grow a lily

Because lily- a flower that doesn't like transfers, you need to choose a place where planting and care will be comfortable for both you and the flower.

If your lilies have sprouted in the fall, but you haven’t yet experienced gardener, then the question of what to do will certainly arise. You just need to divide and plant the sprouted lilies.

In the autumn, this is what working with them consists of. We will talk a little later about whether it is possible to replant lilies in the spring.

The right time to water

If you have just decided to grow lilies, you most likely do not have much knowledge about how to care for them. Even the answer to the question: “How to water lilies?” - you may not know.

In spring and summer period Lilies need to be watered as often as possible, but with a small amount of water. They are like any bulbous plant, can rot from excess moisture.

Did you know? The lily easily tolerates slight drying out, so it is better to let the soil under it dry out a little rather than flood it too much.

You shouldn't let the soil dry out too much either. The growth of the plant will slow down, the stem will become stunted, and the leaves will dry out.

To prevent regular drying out, you can plant low-growing perennials between the flowers, which will protect the moisture from rapid evaporation.

How to care for the soil


Proper care and timely transplantation of lilies play a very important role in the growth and development of the flower.

Absolutely all lilies do not tolerate any organic matter, so you should choose only mineral fertilizers.

In spring, when the leaves begin to gradually separate from the sprouts, you can start feeding the lily potassium nitrate and continue it every two weeks until the end of June. You can add potassium with magnesium in the summer months to brighten the flowers.

Spring transplantation of lilies must be accompanied by fertilizing the soil with superphosphate. Follow the instructions on the packaging to avoid harming the flowers.

Did you know? Organic fertilizers cause lilies to rot.

Lilies often grow in one place for about five years. During this time, they form many nests of bulbs of different ages and sizes. Planting of sprouted lilies should occur in the fall, when the bulbs have become stronger after the flowering period.

The most common method of propagating lilies - vegetative: The bulbs are separated from the main plant and planted for germination.

Less common, but no less effective method- reproduction by division: The scaly leaves that make up the bulb are cut off from the yellowing stem. These scales are planted in the ground one at a time and constantly watered, thanks to which full-fledged lily bulbs sprout.

There are a number of rules that apply to planting lilies:

  • It is common practice to plant bulbs with their roots facing down. The lily bulb can be planted by placing it on its side. Then the shoot will stretch to the side, gradually becoming overgrown with large bulbs. The lily will begin to grow upwards after the bulbs have formed;
  • the quality of the soil and planting methods can vary greatly depending on the variety and type of lily, the time of year, for example, replanting in the spring will not be the same as in the fall;
  • If you plant oriental varieties, you should not allow the bulbs to dry out. In the case of Asiatic lilies, lime should not be added to the soil. Don't forget to replant them once every two years;
  • Lily is not afraid of weeds. The only pest for it is bindweed. It is worth removing its shoots immediately, because if the grass grows, it will be very inconvenient to remove it.

How to choose the right bulbs, rules for storing planting material

Sometimes even an experienced gardener finds it difficult to determine the age and quality of the bulb. To choose good lily bulbs, you need to pay attention to their appearance. The bulb should be healthy looking, firm to the touch and free from blemishes. The roots must be alive.

Many beautiful and interesting legends are attributed to the divinely beautiful garden lily flower. The white lily is the personification of purity and innocence. An ancient Greek legend says that the white lily grew from the milk of the mother of the gods, Juno, while according to the legends of the ancient Jews, the lily grew in the Garden of Eden during the temptation of Eve by the devil and remained pure, because no evil dared to touch her innocence.

The yellow lily is also crowned with a beautiful legend. There is a beautiful story that it was under the yellow lily that grew in the reeds that Moses’ cradle stopped.

The red lily has its own, no less interesting, history. And although a white lily has always been considered a symbol of royal power, some argue that the lily given by the angel to Clovis was precisely red. There is a legend that it turned red on the night before the Savior’s suffering while he was passing through the Garden of Gethsemane. All the flowers that grew there bowed their heads. And only one lily remained adamant, wanting him to be able to fully enjoy her beauty. And so it actually happened - the Savior stopped his gaze for a moment at this proud flower. And then Lily felt ashamed of herself. She was able to catch the suffering look on herself and compare her pride with the humility of the Savior. The blush spread over all her petals and remained there forever. That is why, to this day, it is impossible to find a red lily with its head raised proudly, and by night it closes all its petals into a bud.

It is not known why exactly the lily flower is so popular among gardeners, but the fact that the lily is considered the most beautiful flower- this is undoubtedly.

Types and varieties of lilies

Currently, there are nearly 80 species of this charming flower, which have given flower growers a large number of hybrids. Lily flowers can be very different:

  • Cup-shaped.
  • Flat.
  • Star-shaped.
  • Bell-shaped.
  • Turban-shaped.
  • Tubular.
  • Funnel-shaped.

Despite all the beauty of lilies, the following varieties of lilies are considered the most popular. So, lily - description of varieties.

  • Asian variety. Asian varieties of lilies include: tiger, spotted, Dutch, dwarf, monochromatic, bulbous, Fiesta lilies and some hybrids. Their main advantages: resistance to low temperatures, ease of cultivation and clarification, and ease of propagation. They like to grow in slightly acidic and neutral soils and reproduce by seeds or bulbs. The only drawback Asian variety of lilies - lack of aroma.

  • American variety. American varieties include the following lily names: Columbian lily, leopard lily, Paris lily, Uerbanka lily, Humboldt lily. Lilies American variety I like low acidity soil and highly lighted areas. Disadvantage - they do not withstand replanting.

  • Martagon. Lilies of the Martagon variety are curly hybrids. They tolerate low temperatures well, are not exposed to viruses, are durable and unpretentious to the soil.

  • Long-flowered varieties. These include the Formosan lily and the Zalivsky lily. This variety is mainly grown as an indoor variety, on windowsills. The reason for this is that they do not withstand temperature changes well.

In addition to the above species, those that tolerate frosty winters well and do not require special care during the growing process are also popular among gardeners:

  1. AA hybrids.
  2. Long-flowered hybrids.
  3. Hybrids of trumpet lilies.
  4. Hybrids of Asiatic and Oriental lilies.

Wanting to grow beautiful lilies in their garden, flower growers are primarily interested in: when is the best time to replant lilies? Let's consider this issue in more detail.

Planting lilies

Spring planting of lilies

The cold months are behind us and spring chores begin suburban areas. It is in the spring that many people plant bulbs, because spring planting creates favorable conditions for the growth of the root system and the survival of the plant in a new place.

But, due to the fact that lilies are stored in cold rooms all winter, when transferred to warm conditions they quickly grow. This means that all varieties have a limited planting period. That is, lily bulbs need to be planted in soil with small sprouts.

  • If their sprouts have already reached 10-12 cm, they need to be planted sideways, thereby ensuring the horizontal position of the sprouts. During the growth process, their sprouts will gradually straighten and ensure flowering. The advantage of such planting is that more large-sized children are formed in the underground part.

Important! Spring planting of lilies is undesirable for the southern regions.

  • Autumn planting of lilies, unlike spring, has one significant advantage– the plants themselves feel when they can hatch in the spring. But, unfortunately, not all varieties of lilies can be purchased in stores in the fall.
  • Transplanting lilies is also practiced in the summer months. Especially if you need to fill empty spaces in the flowerbed after digging up tulips, daffodils or other early flowering plants. Flower growers call this type of planting transshipment, because you need to dig up the plants along with a lump of earth and carefully transfer them to a pre-dug hole. Lilies tolerate transshipment well.
  • Experienced gardeners recommend planting and replanting bulbs at the end of August or early September, when the lilies have already bloomed. If you purchased the bulbs in the spring, then planting in open ground is best done in the month of May.

It is important to know! Late-blooming lily varieties should be planted in the spring to ensure proper bulb formation in the fall.

When to plant lilies is up to each of you to decide. The main thing is to adhere to all the recommendations and tips that you can find in our article.

Lily bulbs

To ensure that lilies bloom wildly in your garden, you need to know how to choose the right lily bulbs. The main requirement is to pay attention to the quality of the bulb. Living bulb roots should be firm and free of moldy or rotten scales. Their optimal length is 5 cm.

  • When buying bulbs in winter or early spring, you should ensure they are stored properly.
  • To do this, put them in plastic bag with moss or dry peat.
  • Make small holes in the bag, then store them in the refrigerator until planting.
  • Systematically inspect the planting material. When the bulbs begin to sprout, it is recommended to open the packaging material and allow them to sprout unhindered.
  • In this case, the planting material should be provided with an optimal temperature - from +2 to +5*C.

Many amateur gardeners are interested in the question: is it possible to bring dry bulbs back to life? It is generally accepted that dry bulbs are not suitable for planting. But it’s still worth trying to revive them. Especially if these are bulbs of your favorite lily variety. To do this, wrap the bulbs in a damp soft cloth 4-5 hours before planting. Immediately before planting, do not forget to treat them with a 10% solution of karbofos.

Soil preparation

  • An equally important task is proper preparation soil. To plant lilies, choose the freshest place where other plants have not yet been grown.
  • Remember that the roots of the lily bulb go deep into the soil, so you need to dig it to a depth of 50 cm. If the soil is heavy and clayey, it is recommended to add sand when digging. It is better to add peat to sandy soil.
  • To ensure beautiful flowering, gardeners recommend fertilizing the soil with rotted compost at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 sq.m.
  • Due to the fact that the lily is perennial and it usually lives in one place for 3-4 years; when preparing the soil for planting, it is recommended to apply mineral and organic fertilizers. This will allow gardeners to ensure that the plants bear good fruit even without additional feeding in the summer months. Otherwise, the plants will need to be fertilized with complex mineral fertilizers at least 2 times during the summer.

It is important to know! Lilies do not tolerate acidic soil. To reduce acidity, it is recommended to add wood ash at the rate of 200 grams per 1 sq.m. or chalk – 200-500 gr. per 1 sq.m.

Planting lilies

When preparing to plant lily bulbs, it is necessary to take into account the fact that plants live in one place for 3-4 years. Therefore, it is recommended to plant them in groups of 3-5 pieces. Remember that frequent replanting will slow down the growth of the plant.

As mentioned above, garden lilies love well-lit areas. But, it is worth taking care to provide them with light shading by planting low annual flowers.

How to properly carry out the process of planting garden lily bulbs - step-by-step instructions

Before introducing you to step by step instructions When planting lily bulbs in open ground, I would like to point out one unwritten rule - the whole process from start to finish must be carried out in good mood. Flowers like to be sung to and treated with respect. In gratitude for this, they delight their owners with beautiful and long-lasting flowering.

So, we charged ourselves with positivity and began the process.

  1. Dig a hole in the pre-treated soil to a depth of 2 times the height of the bulb.
  2. The distance between the holes should be at least 15 cm.
  3. Cover the bottom of the hole with gravel and sprinkle with a small amount of soil.
  4. Place the lily bulb in an upright position, sprinkle with soil and tamp it down lightly.
  5. Form a small depression on top, add fertilizer and cover with soil.
  1. The larger the lily bulb, the deeper it should be planted.
  2. If there are rodents on the site, then it is worth planting the bulbs in special baskets or metal mesh, which will prevent the rodent from entering the bulb.
  3. To ensure rapid reproduction of lilies, the bulbs need to be planted on their sides and not in a vertical position.
  4. Usage small quantity wood ash or foundation ash provides good protection against diseases.

It should be noted that most varieties of lilies do not require insulation. But if your region experiences very low temperatures in winter, then you need to cover them for the winter with a layer of foliage, hay or raspberry branches.

Growing lilies by seeds

Another type of growing lilies is by seeds. It is safer and more economical. You should buy planting material in specialized stores or get the seeds yourself after flowering, at the moment when the seed pod acquires a brownish tint.

You can sow seeds in seedling boxes or directly in a garden bed in open ground. In the latter case, it is recommended to select places where bulbous plants have not yet grown.

  1. Weed the soil to remove weeds and carefully cultivate.
  2. Form beds up to 1 meter wide.
  3. Draw sowing lines across the beds, maintaining a distance between them of up to 15 cm.
  4. The varieties Elegantnaya, Martagon and Concor can be sown in autumn. Slowly germinating varieties are recommended to be sown immediately after harvest.
  5. Cover the beds with a layer of sand and cover them with hay or a layer of leaves for the winter.
  6. In summer, fertilize with organic and mineral fertilizers, ensure regular watering and weeding.

Important! To speed up the germination process, gardeners recommend mixing lily seeds with sand immediately after collection. Store such seeds at a temperature of +5 degrees for 3 months, then bury them in the snow for 3 weeks.

Caring for lilies

Caring for lilies is a pleasant process. Moreover, it provides for periodic weeding, watering and loosening. If no fertilizers were added to the soil during planting, then in addition to the above, the plant needs to be fed 2-3 times.

Watering lilies is carried out regularly, both before flowering and during flowering. You need to ensure that the soil is always moderately moist. Lilies need to be watered only at the roots. When water gets on the leaves, the risk of burns and disease increases.

The soil around the bulb should always be loose and free of weeds.

Lily propagation

Lilies are propagated by dividing the bulbs once every 3-4 years. This process will not only increase the number of plants on your summer cottage, but also promotes more beautiful and healthy flowering. If the lily is very thick, the flower will become smaller, it will become dull, sluggish, and its flowering period will be reduced to a minimum. In some cases, a flower may not form at all. After planting, the divided bulbs will bloom in the current season.

Some varieties of lilies can form babies higher than the main bulb on the plant stem. They need to be carefully separated from the stem and planted in the ground. Such bulbs will give flowers to the owner only for 2-3 years after planting.

In addition, lilies can also form stem bulbs, which can form in the axils of the leaves. These bulbs are collected at the end of summer and planted in the ground to a depth of 3-4 cm. To protect them from frost, the planting site must be covered with a layer of raspberry leaves or branches.

The most painstaking method of propagating lilies is by scales. To plant scales, you need to prepare a trench for them, which you need to fill with clean sand. The scales must first be treated with a light solution of potassium permanganate, and then planted in the sand, keeping a distance of 5 cm. If the scales are planted in the spring, then by autumn they will already form small bulbs.

Feeding and pruning lilies after flowering

Lilies need to be fertilized with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers after flowering. In addition, to ensure they have the necessary supply of nutrients and strength throughout the winter, they should be watered regularly.

Many people are interested in when to prune lilies and what needs to be taken into account. It is known that preparing plants for wintering begins with cutting off dried flowers. However, it is not recommended to remove the stems of lilies. The fact is that the stems and leaves are able to supply the plant bulb with nutrients even if they have already withered. Lilies should be pruned towards the end of autumn. But pruning is carried out in such a way that the annual roots, which are located at ground level, are preserved. They are the ones who give the bulb additional nutrition.

conclusions

As you can see, the garden lily, the process of growing and propagating it is not complicated, and anyone can handle it. To consolidate your knowledge that you have already gained from our article, we invite you to watch an instructive video lesson. An experienced florist will also introduce you to some secrets that will help you get early flowering lilies. Good luck to you!

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