Treatment of cabbage for clubroot. What is wrong with cabbage? Clubroot is the problem of all gardeners Cabbage clubroot is the fight against it

Anyone who buys cabbage seedlings on the side, at some point contributes own garden Clubroot is a common and more harmful disease of cabbage crops.

WHAT IS KILA DANGEROUS?
At risk
Clubroot is transmitted mainly through the soil. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Plasmodiophora brassicae. It affects all varieties of cabbage, other cabbage crops (radish, radish, daikon, turnip, rutabaga, watercress, mustard), as well as weeds of the same family (colc, wild radish, field mustard, shepherd's purse, spring grass, etc.). Cauliflower and early white cabbage are particularly sensitive to clubroot, as are many high-yielding modifications of Dutch selection, regardless of ripening time.
Clubroot infection occurs throughout the entire growing season. The earlier it came out and the more massive it is, the more damage will be done to the crop. In case of severe damage, cauliflower heads may not form at all, and white cabbage Very small loose forks are formed. If we take into account that cabbage crops make up almost a third of all vegetables grown in family gardens, you can imagine what a disaster the clubroot is when one day brought onto the plot.

Symptoms of the lesion
Snow-white thickenings (swellings, growths) form on the roots of affected plants various shapes and magnitude. If plants are infected at the seedling stage, large swellings form on the main roots. If healthy seedlings were planted on contaminated soil, then the clubroot looks different; small thickenings in the form of icicles and beads form on the lateral roots. By dawn the growths turn brown, rot and collapse. With all this, it gets into the soil unlimited amount spores (cysts) that remain viable for 67 years. Any plant from the cabbage family that ends up on contaminated soil will provoke the germination of spores with its root secretions. The resulting mycelium, growing towards the roots, infects the sensitive plant, penetrating the root through the root hairs.

HOW TO PREVENT THE SPREAD OF CLOAK DURING PRIMARY INFECTION
The first appearance of clubroot in a previously clean garden is always associated with unhealthy seedlings or the planting of a plant taken from an infected area. Clubroot, introduced into at least one bed, usually quickly spreads throughout the entire garden and remains there forever. But the development of narrow ridges gives a real chance to localize the disease with the following rapid and complete cleansing of the soil from the pathogen. Pesticides are not used in any of this.
What should you do if clubroot is found on one of the narrow ridges while harvesting cabbage?
. Collect as much as possible all the infected roots, dry them and burn them on a sheet of iron, having previously doused them with gasoline.
. Designate a separate area for working on the contaminated bed. garden tools, work in rubber boots and gloves.
. Do not walk around the entire garden until the work of collecting roots is completed and you have changed your shoes.
. In the fall, add beet tops to the soil. After harvesting the beets, chop the tops, treat them with any products of effective microorganisms (for example, products of Siyanie-1, Baikal) and dig with contaminated soil to a depth of less than 10 cm.

Burn unhealthy roots in the brightest, smokeless flame. A sluggishly burning, smoking fire promotes the spread of the disease, as viable clubroot spores are dispersed with the smoke.
Naturally, it is unrealistic to remove all unhealthy roots from the ground, and there is no doubt that the soil in the garden bed is contaminated. But the more carefully all the growths are collected, the less massive the infection will be. Narrow beds are divided into almost meter-long passages that cannot be dug up, i.e. There is no mechanical mixing of clean and covered soil, which gives a good chance of localizing the source of the disease. In subsequent seasons, refrain from planting crops susceptible to clubroot not only in the infected bed, but also in adjacent ones, since earthworms, slugs and other soil organisms can carry spores there.

To localize the source of infection, it is important that there are no weeds from the cabbage family in the bed, on the sides and in the aisles. The development of weed control, practiced in narrow beds, allows you to keep the garden spotlessly clean. Once you have clubroot, do not deviate from the instructions and promptly destroy weeds sprouting from seeds, without wondering whether they belong to the cabbage family or not.

QUARANTINE IS NECESSARY, BUT IT DOES NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEMS
Although resting clubroot spores remain in the ground for 6 or more years, in the absence of a host plant, the number of viable spores decreases with age. To ensure that the number of spores inexorably decreases, radishes, radishes, daikon, turnips, watercress, salad mustard, not to mention all varieties of cabbage, should not be sown on contaminated soil. The presence of clubroot spores is not unsafe for plants that belong to other families, and from this point of view, any other vegetables can be processed in an infected bed. This is the strategy that specialists advise to follow. Give preference to leafy or fruit-bearing vegetables and beware of root vegetables, so that when harvesting you do not spread contaminated soil along with the root vegetables throughout the area.

Quarantine measures are necessary, but they do not guarantee the localization of the source of infection and the healing of the earth. Long-term persistence of a viable pathogen in the soil increases the chance of infection spreading, despite all precautions.

Healing the Earth
To quickly eliminate the source of infection, I recommend a specially developed method of healing the soil, based on the observation that certain vegetable crops are not only resistant to clubroot, but when cultivated on contaminated soil they cause accelerated death of the pathogen. Medicinal plants include representatives of 3 botanical families: nightshade (tomatoes, potatoes, etc.), lily (onions and garlic) and goosefoot (beets, etc.). Solanaceous crops completely free the soil from clubroot spores in 3 years. Vegetables from the lily family (onions, especially hot varieties, winter and spring garlic) and from the goosefoot family (beets, chard, spinach) clean the soil even faster in 2 years. Of the lilies, leeks are a less active crop, and it is better not to use them for quick healing of the earth. The effect of nightshade and lily crops is additive, i.e. with their joint landing healing effects are cumulative.

For healing the earth from clubroot, a couple of tomatoes and spring garlic turned out to be the most effective. When growing tomatoes and spring garlic in an infected bed in mixed planting(a row of tomatoes versus a row of garlic) clearing the soil of viable clubroot spores is achieved in one season.
To avoid accidents, you can extend the healing of the earth for another year: in the next season, you can sow, for example, 2 rows of beets in the garden bed.

The reason for such wonderful results in the fight against clubroot is not only the use of healing plants. To localize the primary source of infection and eliminate it, the development of narrow ridges is more important, which allows:
. prevent the spread of infection through clubroot-sensitive weeds;
. avoid mechanical mixing of contaminated and uncontaminated soil;
. minimize the possibility of transferring contaminated soil with water during rain and irrigation.

Clubroot spore test
Before returning cabbage crops to cured soil, check its cleanliness in the spring. Sow Chinese cabbage in the problem bed. Collect it little by little, digging up plants with roots, starting from the growth of the first real leaves until the formation of a fork. The complete absence of growth on the roots during the entire growth period will indicate that the healing of the earth was successful. The appearance of even one snow-white bead on the peripheral roots will indicate that the healing of the earth needs to be extended for another year.

AGRICULTURE AFTER HEALING THE EARTH
On soil freed from clubroot spores with the help of healing plants, soil conditions that contribute to the development of the disease should be avoided. The defeat of cabbage crops by clubroot is promoted by:
. calcium and potassium deficiencies;
. lack of microelements zinc, boron and chlorine;
. low (less than 2.5%) turf content in the soil;
. waterlogging and drying out of the soil;
. acidic soil environment (Kingroot spores germinate exclusively in an acidic environment, they are especially active in slightly acidic, waterlogged soil; in a neutral soil environment their ability to germinate is reduced, and in a slightly alkaline environment (pH 7.2) it completely disappears).
It is especially important to carry out the recommended agrotechnical measures when planting cabbage crops for the first time on cured soil.

Adding organic matter
When digging, add any organic matter in the amount of 23 buckets per meter of ridge (compost, manure or pine humus). In the absence of organic matter, the planted plants must be watered with peat humate (watering 4 times at weekly intervals).

Adding lime
IN middle lane Russian soils are usually acidic or slightly acidic, therefore liming is an indispensable agrotechnical technique. Gardeners are well aware of the standard recommendation to lime the soil every 45 years. But the limed soil will soon acidify again, which is facilitated by rains, melt water, adding minerals and organic fertilizers. To maintain the reaction of the soil environment at a level close to neutral, not periodic, but constantly repeated application of lime is required.

Microelements
Cabbage crops are sprayed twice with a comprehensive micronutrient product. The first spraying is carried out 1.52 weeks after planting the seedlings, the second after 34 weeks. Instead of an all-encompassing product, you can spray with 0.05% zinc sulfate (0.5 g of zinc sulfate/l of water).

Variety selection
In the first year after the cabbage returns to its old place, you should not plant cauliflower and early white cabbage, as well as other very susceptible cabbages. Choose clubroot-resistant varieties. Among the ordinary Russian species are relatively resistant to infection by clubroot from the mid-season species Losinoostrovskaya 8, Taininskaya, from the late Zimnyaya Gribovskaya 13, Stolichnaya late 15, Stolichnaya late 9.

Planting seedlings
If seedlings are planted without a root ball, their roots must be rolled in limestone flour or dipped in clay-lime mash. In the latter case, the lime will stick better to the roots.

Watering requirements
On treated soil, watering should be moderate; neither over-wetting the soil nor under-watering should be allowed. To create a rational water regime, cover the surface of the earth with mulch from pine needles(which will simultaneously protect the cabbage from damage by naked slugs), and cover the entire bed with breathable material such as lutrasil.

HOW TO KEEP AN AREA FREE FROM COLOROMA?
In order to keep the site free from the clubroot pathogen from year to year, make it a rule to never deviate from the proposed 3-year therapeutic and preventive crop rotation (see table). In the garden bed before and after cabbage crops, grow any vegetables belonging to the nightshade, lily and goosefoot families. To organize crop rotation, it is useful to keep a diary. Any bed must have its own number and its own recorded long-term history (alternation of crops, occurrence of one or another disease). Each year's plantings are planned based on these records.

In the season preceding the planting of cabbage crops, and in the season following the cabbage crops, only those vegetables are grown in the beds that specifically act on the pathogen, causing its accelerated death. For the 4th year, you can grow any vegetables in the beds, including cabbage. But then, in the 5th year, healing crops are used again.

Cabbages should always be preceded and followed by the vegetables listed in the table.

WHAT TO DO IF KILA LIVES IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Since ancient times?
In old garden plots, the entire soil is often contaminated with clubroot. With all this, the infection is maintained from year to year by the cultivation of cabbage, radishes, other cabbage crops, and weeds also susceptible to clubroot. It is not easy to cleanse such land, and it is better to carry out healing in stages. Throughout the entire area, it is necessary to complete the reproduction of the pathogen and immediately, step by step, conquer the terrain from the clubroot, evenly expanding the boundaries of the unspoiled land.

If the farm has a separate potato field, then the task is simplified by swapping the positions of the vegetable garden and the potato field. In the absence of clubroot-sensitive weeds, it will take 3 years for potatoes to heal the land. It is necessary to process potatoes on narrow ridges (without hilling), because with the classic cultivation of potatoes in ridges, weed control is difficult and the required cleanliness of plantings is almost achievable. After healing, test the soil for the presence of the pathogen, and then work on clean soil with the constant implementation of therapeutic and preventive crop rotation and compliance with recommended agricultural practices.

If the potato option does not work, the following measures will help bring the infection under control:
. exclude all cabbage crops from crop rotation for 2 years;
. prevent weeds from growing in both beds and walkways;
. clean the soil of the pathogen by planting crops included in the therapeutic and preventive crop rotation;
. give preference to mixed plantings of nightshade crops with onions or garlic, alternating them with beets and other goosefoot crops;
. do not disperse healing plants over the entire area of ​​the garden, but cultivate them in adjacent beds, compactly;
. Having cleared the first area, promote healing plantings to adjacent beds.

Test the results of healing and be sure to record the data in a diary, where you also record fruit change, the introduction of organic matter, cultivation of the soil with EM (agronomically beneficial microbes), etc. To heal the earth from clubroot, such records are urgently needed.

T.Yu.Ugarova,
Doctor of Biosciences
Magazine "The Real Owner" No. 7/2007.

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​Since time immemorial, cabbage has been one of the most significant vegetable crops our country. And when she begins to get sick and die, this, of course, is not very pleasant. Clubroot is considered the most common cabbage disease. What is clubroot on cabbage, how to fight the disease? This is what this article will be about.​

What to do after treating the soil for clubroot

​4. Inspection and culling of diseased seedlings before planting in open ground.​

When planting in a hole, add a handful of ash. And do not plant in one place for at least 4 years.​
The disease is transmitted through the soil, so the soil is disinfected with freshly slaked lime (especially acidic soils): with continuous application - 1-1.5 kg/m2; for local - 35-40 g of lime, well mixed with soil, per hole. It is advisable to add lime in greenhouses before sowing seeds. Sprinkling the soil with a 0.1% solution of the fungicide Fundazol helps a lot. When planting seedlings, it is recommended to water the soil with a solution of Cumulus DF (30-40 g/10 l of water) or a solution of colloidal sulfur (40-45 g/10 l of water).
​Most reliable means Selection and cultivation of resistant varieties should be considered in the fight against this disease. There are known stable hybrids of Chinese cabbage F1 Nika, F1 Kudesnitsa and hybrids of white cabbage F1 TEQUILA, KILOFUR, KILATON.​
​I wish you a good, healthy harvest! See you soon!​
​Destroy weeds, especially from the cruciferous family.​

​with this unpleasant plant disease.​

The cured soil should not be subject to prolonged waterlogging or drying out. To prevent the soil from drying out after planting cabbage, cover its surface with a layer of pine needle mulch. This, in turn, will also be a kind of protection for the cabbage from slugs.​

- any waterlogging or excessive drying of the soil is harmful;

Prevention of clubroot on the site

Conclusion

​5. It is good to add 35-40 g of freshly slaked lime into the hole before planting the seedlings, mixing it with the soil.​

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A bunch of cabbage. Control measures

​Deoxidize the soil with dolomite flour or flumb deoxidizer. And before planting, spill the hole with a solution of colloidal sulfur. Instructions on the bag.​

To heal the soil from the pathogen, the stumps are harvested and burned after harvesting the cabbage to prevent rotting and decomposition of the affected roots. It would also be useful to regularly weed weeds from the Brassica family that are susceptible to clubroot: shepherd's purse, field grass, rapeseed, sverbiga, alyssum, zherushnik, etc. To reduce the degree of damage to plants by clubroot, crop rotation with return is desirable cabbage plants no earlier than in 5–7 years. Liming the soil helps reduce the intensity of disease development. High hilling of plants slows down the development of the disease. Cabbage clubroot is a common disease of cabbage, turnips, radishes and other cabbage crops. Numerous small (in seedlings) or large growths and swellings form on the roots of affected plants.

​Never use soil from garden beds to grow seedlings.​

Clubroot is one of the most common diseases of fungal origin. Manifests itself in the form of growths on the roots different sizes. At the site of the growths, root hairs disappear, which is why plants cannot absorb nutrients and water. required quantity. The part of the cabbage located on the surface develops poorly and heads of cabbage do not form.

Throughout the season, cabbage should be sprayed several times with a solution of zinc sulfate at the rate of 0.5 g of zinc sulfate per 1 liter of water. The first spraying is carried out after planting the seedlings on the 10-14th day, the second - after another 20-30 days.

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There is cabbage clubroot on the plot. Tell me how to get rid of it?

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- insufficient humus content in the soil;

When planting cabbage seedlings in a different place, fill each hole with 250 ml of lime milk solution. To prepare it, pour 800 g of fluff lime into 10 liters of water. This will prevent clubroot from appearing in another bed.​

It is quite difficult to recognize clubroot on young seedlings. The growths are not so large, and their color is not much different from the roots. As the plant grows, they become larger, replacing small roots, so affected cabbage is easy to pull out of the soil. Fungal spores that ripen in the growths infect the soil for a long time. Any cruciferous plant grown on contaminated soil, even a weed, will provoke the growth of spores.​

​7. Don’t forget to loosen the soil after watering.​

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​In adult plants, clubroot causes severe oppression, growths form on the roots various sizes, from a pinhead to a fist (picture). The functioning of the roots is hampered: they cannot absorb water and dissolved nutrients in sufficient quantities. The leaves become lethargic, turn yellow, the heads of cabbage are underdeveloped, and in case of severe damage they do not form at all.​
​It will be useful to add 3 tablespoons of “Cabbage” soil to each hole when planting seedlings.​

​Control measures:​

So, in the course of this article we found out what clubroot on cabbage is and how to deal with it. It was talked about what is the causative agent of the disease. Special attention was paid not only to analyzing the issue of how to deal with clubroot on cabbage, but also to how to prepare the land for planting cabbage so that it would not be susceptible to this disease. We talked about acceptance preventive measures. We also discussed how to deal with clubroot on cabbage roots and what to do after treatment. Thus, when all the topics have been discussed in detail, we can only hope that this will certainly help our reader.​

- lack of potassium and calcium;

The most important point in the fight against cabbage clubroot should be soil treatment. One of the significant methods of treating a bed is to cultivate the contaminated soil with vegetables, causing the death of the pathogen. The main healers of contaminated land are considered to be vegetables from the nightshade, lily and goosefoot families. Nightshade crops (including tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, and eggplants) clear the soil of clubroot spores in 3 years. Liliaceae (sharp varieties onions, garlic) and goosefoot (spinach, beets, quinoa) clear the soil faster - in two years. The “tomato - garlic” pair in mixed planting is quite effective. In this case, it is possible to clear the soil in one season.​

​If clubroot is found on plants already in the middle of the season, then it will be very difficult to do anything serious this season. Remove all diseased plants, dry and burn the roots. The remaining healthy seedlings Hill up higher and water more abundantly.

​8. Promptly remove plants severely affected by clubroot.​

​1. The only source of clubroot infection is contaminated soil, so cabbage should be returned to its original place no earlier than after 4-5 years.​

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Acidic soil, need to add lime

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​It is necessary to constantly carry out crop rotation, returning cabbage plantings to their old place no earlier than after 3 - 5 years.​

VARVARA

​Hello, dear friends!​

Kila on cabbage.

- lack of zinc, boron and chlorine.

Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Sometimes the entire area is infected with clubroot. In this case, the question of what clubroot is on cabbage and how to deal with it becomes a real headache for the gardener. It can be very difficult to clear such an infected garden of the pathogen. Treatment of the land should be carried out in stages. First of all, the entire area must be cleared of cabbage crops, including weeds belonging to this family. It can be divided into two parts: potatoes can be planted on one, and garden crops on the other, but not from the cruciferous family. Replace plantings within three years. At the end of treatment, test the soil for the presence of clubroot and in the future use the recommended therapeutic and preventive crop rotation and agricultural practices. As a test, plant seedlings of early ripening cabbage on the plot and monitor its condition throughout the season. If no growths form on the roots, then the area is cured.

​To localize the source of infection, thoroughly clean the beds where clubroot is found and the passages near them of weeds from the cabbage family. Where clubroot was discovered only once, it remains for a long time. Therefore, carry out all work on caring for an infected bed with specially designated equipment so that the spores are not spread throughout the garden.

Clubroot disease is potentially dangerous for other plants that belong to the cruciferous group. Therefore, it is important to know how to deal with clubroot and its pathogen in your area. Detailed instructions and you can find advice on this issue in this material.

The causative agent of clubroot cabbage and manifestations of the disease

If a gardener notices that cabbage leaves wither in sunny weather, then he needs to dig up one of these plants. Swelling growths on the roots indicate that the plants are affected by the most dangerous disease - clubroot. The disease affects the roots of all plants from the cabbage family. Growths form on them - swellings of different sizes or so-called nodules, due to which small feeding roots die.

In affected plants, the connection with the soil is disrupted, and they are relatively easily pulled out of it. The nodules reach an average size of a fist or more, then they gradually rot, and cysts form from them into the soil. The causative agent of clubroot cabbage is a lower fungus that can survive in the soil in the cystospore stage for 5 years.

The plant is affected by clubroot at any age, but young crops that grow quickly suffer the most. The disease develops more strongly in heavy acidic soils. Damaged plants show poor development, growth slows down, leaves wither at midday, they first acquire a faint purple tint, then they turn yellow and fall off. The plant wilts, dries out and dies.

How to deal with cabbage clubroot?

If clubroot was discovered late, then it will be difficult to do anything effective this year. We can only recommend hilling up the plants higher and watering them abundantly, hoping for the development of adventitious roots. If you don’t know how to deal with clubroot, then read the advice of agronomists.

In the place where the cabbage grew, before the autumn digging, it is necessary to add fluffed lime (at least 500–600 g per 1 m2), and for at least 4–5 years it is impossible to grow not only cabbage, but also other cruciferous crops in this area: other types of cabbage, turnips, radishes, radishes, rutabaga.

After a year, regardless of the crop grown, liming in this area should be repeated. When planting cabbage in a different place next year, to prevent clubroot disease, be sure to water the holes with lime milk (800 g of fluff lime per 10 liters, 250 g of solution in each hole), or pour in a 0.5% suspension of colloidal sulfur (0 .5 liters per well). Before fighting clubroot on cabbage, it is necessary to remove all affected parts of the plants.

How to get rid of clubroot cabbage?

Swellings on seedlings are immediately noticeable when they are removed from the soil, so seedlings with growths must be carefully discarded. If you want to know how to get rid of clubroot cabbage, then first you should learn to recognize this disease in early stage. It is at this time that it is possible effective measures struggle.

During the growing season, cabbage is hilled up after watering and fertilizing to form additional roots. All plants that wilt at noon must be removed, but be very careful so that the swellings do not remain in the soil. All removed plants are collected in a bucket, taken outside the site and destroyed by burning.

Clubroot on cabbage is a nuisance that can literally destroy a future harvest in the bud.

Let's first figure out what kind of clubroot this is and why it is dangerous. Clubroot occurs due to an infection affecting the roots of the plant. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus that poses a danger to the root system of cruciferous plants. Cabbage whose roots have been affected by clubroot will die. It is especially destructive for seedlings.

The most susceptible to this disease are cabbage and cauliflower. Clubroot is the most dangerous for such species. When young people are infected with the fungus, it appears in about a month. Therefore, when planting seedlings on permanent place there is a risk of simply not noticing such a nuisance.

Cabbage, on which clubroot has nevertheless formed, stops growing and begins to wither. This occurs because swellings or growths form on the roots, preventing the plants from getting the nutrients they need through the soil.

Cabbage, the clubroot on which has formed on early stages, as a rule, does not form heads, and if more than mature plant, then the heads of cabbage turn out to be very loose.

The growths quickly increase in size, then rot and release into the ground a large number of fungal spores that cause the disease. This is how soil contamination occurs. The spores can then spread throughout the area with the help of insects and groundwater.

If your cabbage looks limp when the soil is sufficiently moist, this is one of the first signs of disease.

If the first signs of the disease occur, care must be taken to reduce the source of infection. In such cases, the plants are removed and burned, and the place where the cabbage grew is treated with potassium permanganate, dissolving it in water until it turns dark pink.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to stay in the place where the disease appeared for about 5 years. This is how long the spores of the harmful fungus remain viable. During this period, it is recommended to sprinkle the soil generously with lime.

At present, it is impossible to save plants affected by the fungus. How can you save the future harvest by ridding your plot of such a nuisance as clubroot on cabbage? How to deal with this disease?

As they say, a disease is easier to prevent than to treat. Therefore, timely preventive measures will reduce the risk of disease to a minimum.

Plant every year in a new place. Waterlogged soils must be drained. Try to avoid using fresh manure or compost on future cabbage beds. Buy seeds from plants that are resistant to the disease. Having bought seedlings at the market, carefully inspect each seedling. Of course, carry out procedures that reduce lime. For this, lime is used. Immediately before planting seedlings in the ground, the holes are watered with lime milk.

Clubroot is a common fungal disease of cabbage and many other cruciferous crops. It is dangerous primarily because the diseased plant does not form a head, and the fungal spores ripen in the ground and, after autumn digging or plowing, spread throughout the entire area. In the future, it is not recommended to plant cabbage in this place, since it is highly likely to get sick, and the amount of fungus in the soil will increase significantly.

Clubroot cabbage disease is much easier to prevent than to treat. It is also necessary to identify diseased plants as early as possible.

Clubroot’s insidiousness also lies in the fact that it manifests itself a month after cabbage seedlings are planted in the ground. Therefore, when purchasing and planting seedlings, infected cabbage sprouts are difficult to notice. At first, seedlings affected by clubroot are no different from healthy ones, but after some time they begin to lag behind in growth and development, do not form heads, wither and die.

If you dig up such a bush, you can see swellings and spherical growths on the roots. Thin thread-like roots responsible for feeding the plant are practically absent. Essentially, a cabbage seedling dies from a lack of nutrients that it cannot get from the roots.

In the first stage, clubroot growths do not differ in color from healthy tissue, and subsequently they darken and begin to rot. A huge number of pathogenic spores mature in them, which remain in the soil and remain viable for more than 15 years.

The spread of clubroot spores is facilitated by numerous insects that live in upper layers soils and water cycle. The spores are even carried in the manure of animals that have been fed contaminated vegetables.

The clubroot pathogen can remain dormant for a long time. When cabbage is planted in such soil, its root secretions contribute to the awakening and germination of spores. They strengthen on the roots and begin to multiply, forming growths.

Moist, acidic soils are most favorable for clubroot fungus. On neutral soils, the fungus develops noticeably slower, and on alkaline soils with a pH of 7.2, its growth is blocked.

Methods to combat clubroot

In order to ensure that you get rid of clubroot and protect cabbage planting for the future, you need a whole range of measures, including:

• pre-sowing seed treatment;
• disinfection and soil preparation;
• compliance with the principles of crop rotation;
• processing cabbage seedlings before planting in the garden;
• selection of varieties resistant to this pathogen.

It is impossible to save a diseased plant, since the roots are affected. Severely damaged cabbage bushes must be carefully dug up, trying not to leave a single root in the ground. They must be removed from the site or burned.

If the infection occurred after the head had formed, and the bush is not much behind in growth, you can try to save it. To do this, cabbage is generously watered with infusion of ash and hilled. The ash infusion reduces the acidity of the soil, and the development of the clubroot pathogen slows down, and hilling promotes the growth of new healthy roots. After cutting the head of cabbage, the roots are dug up and burned, and the hole is watered first with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate, and after a few days with lime milk. It is not recommended to plant cruciferous crops in this place in the next few years.

To prepare an ash infusion, take 10 glasses of ash per 10 liters of water and leave for two days. Then 1 liter of infusion is diluted with water 1:10 and applied immediately after watering the beds, 0.5 liters per bush.

Prevention of clubroot infection

Compliance with preventive measures in combination will minimize the risk of clubroot disease. They start with proper preparation seeds

Seed preparation

Before sowing, the seeds are treated in one of the following ways:

1. Poured hot water and stand for 20 minutes. The water should remain hot during this time. Then the water is drained and the cabbage seed is dried.
2. Soak in a 1.5% mustard solution for approximately 6–7 hours.
3. Place in a solution of ascorbic acid overnight. Take 0.1 g of ascorbic acid per 1 liter of water. In this case, the cabbage seeds in the solution must be stirred every hour, and at the end of the procedure, rinse them with clean water.
4. Keep in a saturated solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, then rinse and fill with one of the biostimulants - “Energen”, “Epin”.

Aloe juice works well on seeds. It is prepared as follows:

• the plant is cut and disassembled into individual leaves;
• the leaves are washed and cut into pieces;
• put in glass jar and do not close tightly;
• The jar of aloe is kept in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

During this time, bioactive substances accumulate in plant tissues. The leaves are crushed and the juice is squeezed out of them. To treat cabbage seeds, it is diluted half and half with water and left for several hours. The procedure can be combined with hardening and leaving the soaked seeds in the refrigerator for 1–2 days. It is not necessary to rinse them in water before planting.

Soil disinfection

Processing beds for cabbage begins with determining the pH coefficient. Favorable conditions For the development of harmful clubroot fungus, humidity levels are 75–85% and pH values ​​are 5.6–6.5. Before autumn digging, add fluff lime or dolomite flour to acidic or neutral soils according to the instructions. Adding wood ash also helps reduce acidity.

When planning plantings, it is necessary to mark every year the beds where cruciferous crops will grow - different types cabbage, radishes, turnips, horseradish, radish, daikon. On next year after them, nightshade, lily or goosefoot crops are planted.

Throughout the growing season it is necessary to weed everything weeds, belonging to the cruciferous family.

The soil for growing cabbage seedlings from seeds is heated for an hour at a temperature of 60°C. After disinfection, it is advisable to spill it with a solution of a biological product for healing. “Baikal-1M”, “Shine” and others are suitable.

What to put in the hole when planting

Before planting cabbage seedlings in the ground, they are washed from the soil and inspected. If small light thickenings are noticeable on the roots, such seedlings are discarded. The rest are treated in a solution of the Thiovit suspension, the Cumulus preparation or colloidal sulfur.

A handful of ash is placed in the holes under the cabbage, dolomite flour, crushed chalk or baking soda. Also, the planted seedlings are watered with lime milk or a solution of colloidal sulfur (2 tablespoons per bucket of water).

It is believed that peeled half of a potato placed at the bottom of the hole helps protect the roots from the clubroot pathogen.

Preventive feeding against clubroot

In order to prevent the development of the disease and at the same time feed the cabbage, it is watered with the following fertilizers every 2 weeks:

• infusion of ash or lime solution in the amount of 1 cup per bucket of water;
• comprehensive mineral fertilizer with the obligatory content of microelements - magnesium, zinc, calcium;
• mullein infusion diluted 1 to 10 with water.

In the absence of manure, cabbage is watered with nettle infusion. It is prepared in the same way as mullein. These fertilizers will help to grow large and healthy heads of cabbage.

Clubroot-resistant cabbage varieties

As a result of research, scientists have discovered genes that are responsible for the resistance of cabbage to clubroot. This made it possible to develop varieties that are weakly susceptible to the pathogen. Popular among them:

• Kilaton is a late-ripening variety for winter consumption;
• Kylazol F1 – late date ripening for long-term storage;
• Winter Gribovskaya - mid-late cabbage for pickling and storage;
• Losinoostrovskaya 8 – medium late for fresh consumption and pickling;
• Taininskaya 11 is a mid-late universal variety with excellent resistance to clubroot.

The varieties Vyuga, Rusinovka, Slava 1305, Kharkovskaya Zimnyaya, Skorospelaya, Zolotoy Hektar 1432 are the most susceptible to the disease.

What can be planted after clubroot affected cabbage

The clubroot pathogen persists in the ground for more than 10 years, but planting the following crops helps to significantly reduce its population:

• nightshades - tomatoes, potatoes, sweet peppers;
• lily - different types of onions, winter and spring garlic;
• Chenopodiaceae – these include beets and spinach.

When cultivating these vegetables in beds where clubroot was previously found, you should monitor the regular weeding of weeds, primarily cruciferous ones - shepherd's purse, rapeseed, field mustard, jarutka, wild radish. These plants help maintain clubroot spores in the soil.