Chrysanthemum is a flower with a very unusual history. Its exact homeland is unknown, there is debate about where this wonderful flower came to us, some say from Japan, others say from China, and others mention all of East Asia.

However, be that as it may, all this does not negate the fact that the chrysanthemum is stunningly beautiful, so beautiful that in Japan highest award called the Order of the Chrysanthemum, and one emperor ordered a seal with her image.

Perhaps for this history and its beauty, growing it at home is not so easy, since many factors will influence its beauty and health. All this and much more is written below.

Chrysanthemum home - description

Chrysanthemum domestica has a short stature. This is due to the fact that it is grown artificially in greenhouses, where its growth is stopped with special equipment for decorative purposes.

Some have had to deal with the fact that when they bought a cutting and tried to grow it, they ended up with a large bush that looked more like a garden bush than a home bush. In this regard, it is worth saying a few words about how to choose the right homemade chrysanthemums in pots.

First of all, take a close look at appearance plants. It should be strong, dense, the leaves should be well developed, and there should be no insects on the trunk. This will allow her to quickly get used to home conditions. This way it will not become infected and will not affect the growth of other already established flowers.

Which varieties are suitable for growing at home?

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot at home is particularly difficult, but if you follow the basic nuances, the plant will delight you with long, lush flowering. Chrysanthemum flowers are often used to create original bouquets. They look great alone or as part of a flower arrangement.

The variety of varieties and varieties will make a bouquet of chrysanthemums a real surprise, allowing you to get away from standard roses and gerberas.

Recently, it has also become popular to give fresh flowers in a pot. The advantages are obvious: a longer flowering period and the possibility of further breeding. At the same time, it often turns out that after the phase of vegetative activity the plant is considered dead. To extend the life of your pet and enjoy beautiful flowers for a long time, you can use the advice in our article and grow a full-fledged indoor plant.

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Home varieties

Of course, ordinary garden crops will not feel comfortable at home. They are too big and cold-loving for this. At the same time, breeders have developed enough varieties of chrysanthemums, the cultivation of which is quite possible in apartment conditions.

Before purchasing, be sure to check this point with the seller, and also take care in advance of creating for your pet suitable conditions, which will be discussed a little later.

Varieties of varieties and classification of chrysanthemums

The most common and numerous variety of this flower is the Korean chrysanthemum. There are many varieties of it, and most have nothing in common with each other. The classification is mainly based on the configuration of leaves and inflorescences. Korean varieties most often used for growing at home.

Indian chrysanthemum is also very popular; it has more refined shapes and the size of its inflorescences. Indoor varieties are distinguished by a relatively high stem on which a large flower (up to 15 cm in diameter) is located. Most varieties of Indian chrysanthemum are grown as garden plants.

Features of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum multiflora is an almost perfect ball with small-sized inflorescences. A characteristic feature is the shape of the flower, as well as numerous buds and active flowering, which lasts from a month to two. After the flowers fall, you need to trim the stems, then bring the pot into the shelter. These shapes can be used to decorate country cottage area, but for wintering it is better to find a fairly warm room with good ventilation.

Zembla chrysanthemum is more in demand as garden culture, but it can also be found among descriptions of indoor plants. The characteristic features of this plant will be fairly large inflorescences, petals rolled into an incomplete tube and a wide range of colors. The most common are yellow chrysanthemums, but among the selected varieties there are even greenish and blue flowers.

Classification of chrysanthemums

General classification of chrysanthemums:

If the size of the inflorescences is less than 80 mm, such varieties are called small-flowered. Large-flowered plants, accordingly, the diameter is much larger.
Based on the shape of the inflorescences, they are distinguished between blanket and double-row, double and semi-double. You can find a general name - globular chrysanthemum, which combines several groups with round voluminous inflorescences.
According to the flowering period, early, middle and late flowering specimens are distinguished. This classification is important if you also want to collect seeds for further cultivation colors. In late-flowering varieties, they, as a rule, do not have time to ripen, so they are not suitable for planting.
The height of the stem also classifies chrysanthemums into border (up to 30 cm) and medium (up to 50 cm in height).
The shape of the petals and their arrangement can be chamomile-like, with a pronounced core (usually of a contrasting color). Double flowers do not have this feature, but can attract attention with petals of different lengths and configurations.

It is impossible to describe all the varieties of this flower, much less indicate them all. possible options colors “Classic” white chrysanthemums are not inferior in popularity to roses and tulips, and a variety of rainbow mixes will cheer you up during the cold season.

Popular varieties

Indoor chrysanthemum is more compact in size; when forming a bush, it forms attractive spherical trees. Except purely visual effect, this plant is famous for its positive energy and in many beliefs has earned the fame of a family amulet.

The chrysanthemum is most popular and universally loved in Eastern cultures, especially Japan. There this plant is grown everywhere and is a symbol of wealth, love and prosperity. To successfully grow the Japanese version of a lucky horseshoe at home, you must adhere to certain requirements.

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What to look for when purchasing

Chrysanthemums are presented in such quantities on the markets that choosing just one bush is not easy. But try to be very careful, because success directly depends on how picky you are.

Never buy chrysanthemums with fully blossomed inflorescences - specimens whose inflorescences are no more than half blossomed will bloom better and longer.

The bushes should be fully formed, powerful, the shoots should be woody below, and the leaves should be healthy. Please note that yellowing of foliage and spots on leaves and shoots are unacceptable.

Light mode for potted chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are crops that require a short daylight hours to bloom abundantly. But this does not mean that they are content with shaded locations.

During the entire period of active development, including flowering, chrysanthemums should be provided with the sunniest and brightest locations, where the plants will not suffer from midday rays or will be shaded from them by neighboring potted plants.

In winter, chrysanthemums are kept in dark rooms(with the exception of specimens that continue to bloom, which are transferred to the brightest locations of the rooms and are planned to be thrown away after flowering)

Temperature conditions

Potted chrysanthemums (both garden and indoor) love cool weather, especially at the flowering stage. These are not the most heat-resistant crops, which are comfortable only in typical autumn conditions. The higher the air temperature, the faster the inflorescences fade and the less chrysanthemums produce new buds.

That is why even miniature houseplants During flowering it is better to keep it in the fresh air. Optimal temperature regime for potted chrysanthemums - from 10-15 to 17-20 degrees Celsius or a little more.

If chrysanthemums are in temperatures above 21-22 degrees during the flowering period, they will not be able to set buds normally for flowering next year, and even a cold winter will not give the expected effect.

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Landing

What to do with a chrysanthemum in a pot - we’ll talk about this a little later. First, let's figure out how to plant it correctly. Material from the mother plant is cut sharp knife. You cannot break off the petioles, otherwise they may not be accepted.

The bush will grow beautiful and lush only if it has a sufficiently developed root system. Therefore, at the very beginning, the petioles are planted in a very large container.

You need to drill several holes at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Garden soil mixed with some organic fertilizer is poured into it.

The question of how to plant a chrysanthemum in a pot comes down to proper preparation soil. Before backfilling, the soil mixture must be subjected to heat treatment. Chrysanthemum is a rather delicate plant that is easily infected by various types of viral and fungal diseases.

The cut petioles are carefully buried in the ground.
After 20-25 days, roots form on them.
As soon as this happens, they should be carefully transferred, along with a lump of earth, into a small flower pot.
In this case, the adult plant will take the form of a beautiful lush bouquet.

Earth in new pot pour the same one. That is, they mix nutritious soil with organic fertilizer. You can also use fertilized peat.

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Watering

The purchased chrysanthemum must be watered carefully. On the one hand, this plant is quite demanding when it comes to watering. On the other side, excess moisture may cause root rot or the development of fungal diseases.

To prevent this from happening, you need to ensure good drainage: there must be a hole in the pot, and a layer of gravel or moss at the bottom. This will help remove all excess moisture from the pot.

On average, chrysanthemums are watered no more than 2 times a week. You just need to make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out.
Spraying the leaves plays an important role; it helps prevent dehydration.
Dried leaves must be removed promptly. And healthy leaves are regularly cleaned of dust.

You cannot use regular tap water for irrigation. You need to pass it through a filter and leave it for a couple of days. The water should not be cold, otherwise the plant is at risk of disease.

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Air humidity

Chrysanthemum prefers high humidity. Therefore, the plant should be sprayed regularly. The frequency of spraying is one (two) times a day. If the grower simply does not have a spray bottle, then you can simply place a saucer or jar of water next to your home plantings.

Protection from dust and dirt

Chrysanthemum leaves should be regularly wiped to remove accumulated dust and other contaminants. You can do this normally damp cloth. Some gardeners place the pot in the bathtub and gently wash away any accumulated dust using a shower head.

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Caring for chrysanthemums in a pot, applying fertilizers

Fertilization is a mandatory measure, because chrysanthemum requires a lot of nutrients for its development. Different additives should be used at different times of the year. They can be divided into:

nitrogen;
potassium;
phosphorus.

Nitrogen fertilizers are used during active flower growth, that is, in spring. These supplements are important for correct formation shoots and active growth of leaves.

Fertilize chrysanthemums in summer nitrogen fertilizing stop, since at this time the active growth of the plant stops and preparation for flowering begins.

In mid-August, start feeding potassium supplements with some phosphorus. Closer to October, everything should be the other way around: more phosphorus with the addition of potassium. These additives are needed by the plant for lush flowering and have a good winter.

Chrysanthemum in a pot, care after flowering

How to care for home chrysanthemums in pots after flowering? When all the buds dry out, they should be removed. Also cut off any dead or damaged branches.

After this, gradually reduce watering and place the flower in the place where it will winter.
If you want to achieve double flowering, then think about it in advance.
In any case, you will have to organize dormant conditions in which the plant will gain strength.

After this, you can expose the flower to heat ahead of time, increase watering, and also adjust changes in daylight hours. All these measures can make the chrysanthemum bloom in late February-early March.

Chrysanthemum in a pot: care at home in winter

How to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot winter time of the year? At this time, the chrysanthemum does not need to be watered heavily, and it should not be fertilized at all. Place the flower in a room with an air temperature of no more than 5 degrees. Such conditions may occur in an unheated storage room or cellar.

Some gardeners believe that indoor chrysanthemums should be pruned for the winter, as is done with garden flowers. But many experts consider this an unnecessary measure, since an indoor flower is not threatened by frosts and other vicissitudes, so there is no need to be afraid that high branches will take too much strength from the flower.

Before wintering, it is advisable to treat the chrysanthemum with antimicrobial agents. They will eliminate the possibility of infecting the flower with pests, which, unlike plants, do not sleep in winter.

How to care for a homemade chrysanthemum in a pot in early spring?

In spring, plants begin to wake up and grow actively. Chrysanthemums in a pot also do this, how to care for them at this time? First of all, you should increase watering of the flower, since it needs moisture for growth. At the same time, you should not make a swamp in the flowerpot. Abundant watering should not turn into a “bay”.

Next, you should think about replanting the plant. This work usually performed in the spring. If the plant is young, then you should choose a flowerpot for it bigger size than the previous one. For an adult plant, you can leave the same container.

Prepare the soil for chrysanthemums yourself, since store-bought substrates are universal and are rarely suitable for this particular flower. To prepare the soil, take:

universal primer;
peat;
perlite;
sand.

Mix all the ingredients so that the soil is loose, but remains nutritious. Pour it into a flowerpot on top of the drainage, which should be mandatory. It eliminates the possibility of water stagnation in the flowerpot.

Replant chrysanthemum better method transshipment. This way its roots are less damaged. After transplantation, the plant is watered a little and placed in a well-lit place.

There is no need to apply fertilizers in the first month after transplantation. They will only harm a plant that is not properly rooted. But after a month you can already water the chrysanthemum with nitrogen fertilizers. They are diluted according to the instructions, which are necessarily given with the drug.

When the chrysanthemum takes root and grows a little, you need to cut off the tops of its branches. This is called “pinching” and is done so that the plant begins to send out lateral shoots. Thus, a lush bush will be formed. By autumn it will be covered in color and will look very beautiful. You can pinch flowers twice: in early autumn and early summer. Then they begin to prepare the chrysanthemum for flowering.

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How to stimulate chrysanthemum flowering

If a flower lover receives a gift from friends, it is most often a chrysanthemum in a pot. Home care is aimed at prolonging flowering. Chrysanthemums are perennials, and they can bloom for several years in a row if they accumulate good energy reserves. A period of winter dormancy with sufficient light, water and fertilizer will increase the plant's ability to produce new buds.

A simple technique helps stimulate the plant to bloom long and abundantly. Here are the basic techniques:

it is necessary to control the light regime of the chrysanthemum. Good vegetative growth implies natural conditions, that is, 9 – 10 hours of darkness. Draping the plant with black fabric creates the illusion of “night” in city apartments, where electricity is often turned on;
Water occasionally and generously. The soil should be moist, but not soggy;
before flowering, organize the light regime according to the standard 12 hours of darkness - 12 hours of light;
provide the plant with a cool atmosphere during the period of bud release. Homemade chrysanthemums in pots need a temperature of 13 - 16 ° C to form a flower;
do not forget to pinch the stems;
remove all small buds and flower buds, leaving only the large ones, one bud on each stem in the center. This should be done when the buds are still small;
When the flowers open as much as possible, choose the most optimal light position for the pot. The chrysanthemum needs to be well watered throughout the flowering period. This way the flowers will last longer;
replanting the chrysanthemum in a larger pot will give more space to the roots. The plant will be able to accumulate more nutrients and moisture, which ensures intense flowering. The optimal pot size is 1.8 liters.

The chrysanthemum needs to be well watered throughout the flowering period.

In the spring, as soon as the chrysanthemum produces green shoots, you need to change the soil in the pot. To do this, carefully remove the plant, put clean soil in the pot, place the chrysanthemum in it and water it. During the same period, it is advisable to feed the chrysanthemum with fertilizer. It is better to use nitrogen agents before flowering, and nitrate ones at the time of flowering.

If you own complete information on how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot, the plant will develop normally and delight the owner with luxurious flowers for several years in a row.

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How to replant chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums, which are given to us in bouquets, are very easy to root. The desire to plant and grow this miracle on your windowsill or on your plot is commendable, but here it is important to follow correct agricultural techniques.

Instructions

If the chrysanthemum is already sitting in your pot, then replanting it in open ground will allow it to take on its natural size and shape. Preparations for replanting a chrysanthemum should begin with its flowering. After flowering, chrysanthemums should be cut off all shoots longer than 10 cm and leave only short petioles. The pot with the plant should be put in a cool room with a temperature of 2-4°C for the winter.
With the onset of spring, new shoots begin to grow and are transferred to a warm room. It is necessary to maintain alternating temperatures for chrysanthemums, otherwise it will not bloom. This time is optimal for transplanting the bush into fresh soil in a pot or flowerbed, as well as for rooting shoots. To root flowers from a bouquet, cuttings that have taken root in water should be cut off at the top, leaving 10 cm, and planted in a pot.
Young plants should be replanted every year in the spring, older ones every two years, and it is better to divide the bushes during replanting. The main thing is that fresh soil for the bush should not be acidic; otherwise, chrysanthemums are not particularly picky about soil. Add a little sand and humus to regular garden soil. During transplantation, the tops of young shoots are pinched, and lignified ones are cut off so that the bush is more branched and even.
Before watering, the lump of earth should be moistened and all dried branches and roots should be removed. Pour drainage into the bottom of the pot, insert the bush in the center and sprinkle with new soil on all sides. In order not to replant the chrysanthemum into a larger pot, divide the bush and plant part of the bush back, of course, adding fresh soil. Afterwards, water the bushes and maintain the soil wet, since chrysanthemum loves water.

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Trimming

Chrysanthemums are pruned twice a year. This is done in spring and summer in order to form a beautiful crown of the bush. The first pruning is done in the spring after planting or replanting a flower. The growing point at the top of the shoots is removed from the plant.

The side shoots immediately begin to grow actively.
Before our eyes, the chrysanthemum turns into a lush, dense bush.
About a month later, this procedure is repeated.
If you grow a spherical variety of chrysanthemums, then it is not necessary to pinch it.
A lush dome-shaped bush is varietal feature these types of chrysanthemum.

The chrysanthemum is pruned again in the fall, after flowering. First of all, dry, diseased and rotten shoots are cut off to keep the rest of the bush healthy. The remaining shoots are also shortened, since the plant will overwinter in spartan conditions - without watering, fertilizing and light. This will make it easier for him to survive during hibernation.

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Propagating chrysanthemums in a pot

Chrysanthemum propagates in 3 ways:

By cuttings.
Dividing the bush.
Seeds.

1. Cuttings

After a rest period, a month before cutting, move the container with the chrysanthemum to a warm, illuminated place (from +10° to +12°).

When 4-6 leaves form on the shoots, you can begin cuttings:

It is better to take a high container, with the expectation that the cuttings will need to be covered for the first time.
Prepare the substrate: humus, garden soil and sand, in this ratio - 1: 2: 0.5, taking into account that upper layer sand should be 2-3 cm. Or take a mixture of perlite and sand, 1:1.
Place drainage at the bottom of the container - expanded clay, pebbles, etc. Pour soil, and on top - a layer of sand of at least 2 cm. Water.
Cut off the tops of the stems 10 cm high, making the lower cut under the internode. Put away lower leaves.
Dip the cutting in a growth stimulator. And deepen the cuttings 1.5-2 cm into moistened sand at an angle of 45° with a gap of 5 cm between them.
Cover the container with glass or film and place the container with the cuttings in a bright, warm place (t from +17° to +20°).
Make sure that the soil in the container is always moist by spraying it daily.
Cuttings take root in 2 to 4 weeks. As soon as the cuttings take root, as evidenced by the growth that appears on them, the film must be removed.

After 2-3 weeks, chrysanthemums can be planted in pots.

2. Dividing the bush

Simple and more reliable way chrysanthemum propagation is the division of the bush during the period of intensive shoot growth.

From one bush of an overwintered plant you can get up to 6 divisions:

Water the bush before dividing.
Pour drainage and a mixture consisting of garden and turf soil, sand and humus into a new pot. Pour the mixture into 2/3 of the container.
Remove the chrysanthemum from the old container, carefully separate the young shoots so that each separated part retains the root.
Place the young shoot in a pot and carefully, trying not to damage the roots, cover it with soil. Do not compact the soil.
After transplanting, carefully water the shoots, preferably with a spray bottle, so as not to accidentally wash away the soil.
Place the container with the shoots in a bright, warm (but not more than +20°) place. Shade from the sun.

After 2-3 weeks, the divisions will take root well.

3. Propagation by seeds

Determine the sowing time by the time of flowering:

Treat the sowing container with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Pour drainage and a mixture of garden soil, sand and humus, 2:0.5:1, into the container.
Moisten the substrate and place the seeds on top. The seeds are not sprinkled with soil, as they need light to germinate. Or sprinkle thin layer light soil.
Cover the container with glass or plastic wrap and put it in a bright room (t from +10° to +15°).
Moisten the soil only with a spray bottle.
After 7-12 days, shoots will appear. Remove the cover.
After the formation of 4-6 true leaves, pick the plant with a gap of 5-10 cm between them.

A month and a half before flowering, plant chrysanthemums in a permanent place.

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Diseases and pests

Chrysanthemum is a late-flowering perennial, characterized by high immunity to diseases and pests. However, she can also get sick.

In order not to put flowers at risk, it is necessary to carefully monitor their condition and take them in a timely manner. preventive measures. And if it was not possible to avoid the disease, then it is important to know which methods of control are most effective.

Fungal diseases of chrysanthemums

Fungal infections of chrysanthemums are most often caused by poor air circulation, high soil acidity, excess nitrogen fertilizers and high temperature.

Leaf spot, or septoria, of chrysanthemums

The disease manifests itself in the form of spots on the leaves, which initially have yellow, and then gradually become dark brown and black (and may increase in size). The lower leaves are infected first.

Prevention and treatment

The first step is to cut off and destroy the affected leaves.
For prevention purposes, it is necessary to regularly remove and destroy the remains of dead plants in the garden.
If the disease spreads, it is worth using fungicides.

Rust

The infection appears as pale areas on the surface of the leaves, as well as powdery orange spots on the undersides. Severely affected plants become weak and no longer flower properly.

Prevention and treatment

Urgent removal of affected leaves.
Thinning bushes to ensure better ventilation.
When watering, avoid getting moisture on the plants.
If the disease has seriously spread, you need to switch to the use of fungicides.

Wilting chrysanthemum leaves

The first symptoms of Fusarium wilt are yellowing and browning of leaves. Infected plants are stunted and often fail to flower. The fungus penetrates plants from the soil through the roots and blocks the flow of water into the chrysanthemum tissue.

Prevention and treatment

Removal and destruction of all infected plant parts.
Planting wilt-resistant varieties.
If the soil already contains Fusarium fungus, which causes wilting, then the soil pH should be increased to 6.5 - 7.0.

Powdery mildew

The leaves are covered with a whitish ash-gray powdery coating. Fungal spores love a humid atmosphere; these are favorable conditions for their growth and reproduction.

Prevention and treatment

Removing affected plant material.
Use of fungicides.

To combat fungal infections, copper oxychloride and Bordeaux mixture, Fundazol, and 1% colloidal sulfur are most often used.

Viral diseases of chrysanthemums

Of all the viral diseases, chrysanthemums are the most dangerous mosaic.

Plants infected with the virus have a stunted appearance and yellowed foliage. Infected chrysanthemums are stunted and produce small flowers.

Prevention

Removal and destruction of affected plants.
Timely weed control.

Pests of chrysanthemums

Leaf nematode

Nematodes are unsegmented roundworms that are barely visible to the naked eye. They overwinter in soil or in infected plant material.

Chrysanthemums affected by the nematode become covered with yellow-brown spots. The pest first damages the lower leaves and gradually spreads up the stem. The yellow-brown spots on the leaves eventually merge and cover the entire leaf, which dies, withers and falls off.

Control measures

Removal of contaminated plant material along with surrounding soil.
In spring, the spread of nematodes will be prevented by mulching.
When watering, avoid getting water on the leaves.
Foliar sprays containing insecticidal soap are quite effective.

Aphids and spider mites

These insidious insects harm many types of indoor and garden flowers.

Aphids feed on the sap of young plant tissues and infect the underside of leaves, buds and flowers. Massive spread of the pest can cause the death of chrysanthemums.

Spider mites spread in hot and dry weather; they suck out the sap from plants, causing the chrysanthemum to dry out, the flowers become discolored, and the leaves fall off.

Control measures

Spider mites and aphids can be removed from the surface of plants with a strong stream of water during watering.
Effective use of insecticides and copper-soap solution (20 g copper sulfate and 200 g of green soap per 10 liters of water).

Now you know how to protect chrysanthemums from dangerous diseases and pests. Don’t forget to properly care for your plants – and they will certainly make your flower garden attractive.

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Queen of autumn - chrysanthemum (in myths and legends)

Many legends are dedicated to this wonderful flower. One of them says that an evil dragon decided to steal the Sun from people; but when he grabbed him, the dragon severely burned his paws. Out of anger, the dragon began to tear and trample the fireball. The sun sparks that fell on the Earth turned into white chrysanthemums...

Chrysanthemum flowers seem to connect the light cold of winter and the warm breath of summer. She is rightfully considered the queen of autumn. This unpretentious autumn flower truly of royal origin.

After all, once in the East luxurious feasts were held in his honor; the image of a chrysanthemum served as a symbol of nobility, happiness and was considered sacred. Many poems, myths and legends are dedicated to him. Today, the oriental beauty has no fewer fans than the recognized queens - roses and orchids.

History of a flower

How much ancient history this flower is not known for sure, but archaeologists have found images of chrysanthemums on fragments of marble and pottery, in the ornaments of ancient buildings, in patterns of oriental porcelain and even on ancient coins.

Some claim that the birthplace of the flower is Japan, others say China, and others say East Asia.
In Japan, the homeland of the chrysanthemum, its image is included in the national emblem; it is a symbol of the sun.
The Order of the Chrysanthemum is the highest award of this country.

The name of the flower, which comes from the Greek words “chrysos” - golden and “antemos” - flower (golden flower), is not accidental; the ancestors of the chrysanthemum were exclusively yellow.

In Japanese it is called "kiku" - the sun. On the day of "kiku" in the imperial palace, the courtiers admired flowers, drank special chrysanthemum wine, listened to music and wrote poetry.

The chrysanthemum was considered a symbol of high status. Only the emperor and members of his family had the right to wear clothes made of fabric with a chrysanthemum pattern. Breaking the law was punishable death penalty. In the 18th century, the plant was brought to France and it conquered all of Europe.

Chrysanthemum in the East

In Japan, colorful chrysanthemum festivals are held annually, where human-sized dolls are dressed in historical clothes made from chrysanthemum flowers. On this day, the Japanese drink sake with petals of this wonderful flower- a symbol of happiness and longevity. The participants of the holiday pass cups of drink to each other, wishing for long years happy life.

This flower is no less revered in China, which is also considered the birthplace of the chrysanthemum. Here he personifies loyalty. The legend says that in the hoary old days, when a cruel emperor ruled China, there was a rumor that a chrysanthemum grew on a certain island, from the juice of which an elixir of life could be prepared.

But only a person with a pure heart should pick a flower, otherwise the plant will lose its miraculous power. 300 boys and girls were sent to the island. It’s just unknown whether they found that plant or not. No one returned, the Mikado died, and the youth founded a new state on that island - Japan.

Legends

The 9th day of the 9th month is dedicated to the chrysanthemum in China and Japan, and the flower picked on this day is endowed magical power. In Vietnam, chrysanthemums represent spiritual purity and clarity of mind. In Italy, the chrysanthemum is a symbol of love; a symbol of deep silent sadness; symbol of death.

In England, chrysanthemums are not so much flowers for bouquets, but funeral flowers. In Europe, white chrysanthemums are considered mourning flowers and a symbol of deep sadness. Wreaths of them are laid on graves in France.
Perhaps that is why there is a sad legend about their origin. “The poor woman’s son died. She decorated the grave that was dear to her with wildflowers collected along the way until the cold weather set in. Then she remembered the bouquet of artificial flowers that her mother bequeathed as a guarantee of happiness.
She placed this bouquet on the grave, watered it with tears, prayed, and when she raised her head, she saw a miracle: the entire grave was covered with living chrysanthemums. Their bitter smell seemed to indicate that they were dedicated to sadness.”

Chrysanthemum in Europe

The chrysanthemum appeared in Europe in 1676. It was brought from Japan to England and made by the Dutchman Reede. However, the French believe that chrysanthemums first appeared in Marseille in 1789 and were brought by the French traveler Pierre Blankshire.

However, the plants they brought were similar to daisies and did not make much of an impression.
Only after 1829, when the French gardener Berne obtained beautiful varieties as a result of experiments with sowing chrysanthemum seeds, did the public become interested in them.
Over time, this flower could be seen in almost every English garden - chrysanthemums tolerated English fogs perfectly and bloomed even before the onset of light frosts.
During the celebration of Schiller's birthday in 1859, the bust of the writer was surrounded by thousands of chrysanthemums, the most diverse in color and shape that then existed.

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Superstitions and chrysanthemum.

Chrysanthemum balances the energy of logic and intuition, reason, will and feelings. Fills you with peace and self-confidence.

Protects against unnecessary hesitation and doubt. Develops confidence and the missing qualities of the sex: for men - fortitude, for women - tenderness and charm. Brings order to thoughts and emotions. Helps you feel like a real man or a real woman and change your sexual orientation. Develops tolerance and friendliness. For public places. For active, active, creative individuals. Helps strong personalities get along with each other.

Protects against unwanted changes in well-being. Brings balance to nervous system, kidneys, cardiovascular system.

The ancient Chinese claimed that chrysanthemum has the miraculous property of prolonging life. human life. According to ancient legend, a certain Taoist monk lived about 700 years, and only because he drank dew from chrysanthemum flowers in the morning. Maybe if we follow his example, we too will be able to maintain our youth?

The petals of chrysanthemum flowers are very different: white, pink, golden yellow. They have one thing in common - they are all rich in minerals, so necessary for normal functioning human body. Please note that the flowers are odorless healing properties do not possess.

Be sure to add fragrant petals of chrysanthemum flowers to traditional green tea. It is considered to be extremely useful for any infectious disease. Ancient Chinese doctors recommended this tea in case of high fever. They assured that it improves vision, removes toxins from the body, and is good for the liver.

Overheating, colds, dizziness, unstable blood pressure - all these diseases, according to them, can be easily cured with the help of chrysanthemum flower petals. You can believe this, but you can treat it with a fair amount of skepticism. However, even in our time, traditional healers renal failure It is recommended to eat ice cream with several fresh chrysanthemum petals in it.

Chrysanthemums in the garden: causes of flowering problems

Potted chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum is rightly called the queen autumn garden. However, flower growers are often disappointed with the negative results of growing chrysanthemums that do not bloom.

Problems resulting in the lack of flowering in chrysanthemums for various reasons are faced by those gardeners who, when choosing suitable plants for their garden, do not take into account a number of important factors, which determine the successful flowering of chrysanthemums.

Let us consider in this article the main factors influencing the flowering of chrysanthemums.

Choose early varieties of chrysanthemums for the garden

One of the main reasons for failures with chrysanthemums, which simply do not have time to bloom in open ground before the onset of autumn cold, is the variety of plants.

When choosing chrysanthemum varieties for your garden, study the characteristics of the varieties you like, including paying attention to the flowering period of the chrysanthemum variety.

Early varieties Chrysanthemums usually bloom from July-August to October.
They usually take 7-8 weeks from bud formation to flowering.

Medium-flowering varieties of chrysanthemums require more time to set buds (9-10 weeks), and therefore they bloom later, in October-November.

Late varieties chrysanthemums bloom in November-December.

Please note that small-flowered chrysanthemums usually bloom much earlier than large-flowered varieties.

Perform chrysanthemum farming techniques

Chrysanthemum is a light-loving crop, so chrysanthemum bushes grow well, develop and bloom only in good light. Therefore, you need to plant chrysanthemums in full sun. In this case, chrysanthemum bushes should not be shaded by neighboring plants.

Remember that chrysanthemum is a short-day plant.

The chrysanthemum bush grows actively and produces buds when the day is longer than the night.
And shortening the length of the day accelerates the development and formation of buds and the blooming of inflorescences in chrysanthemums.

Germinate and cut chrysanthemum in early spring

Other important reason lack of flowering in non-frost-resistant chrysanthemums
– after wintering, it is too late to take the mother chrysanthemum out of storage for germination.
This should be done at the beginning of March.

Under no circumstances should you plant a chrysanthemum as a whole bush!
The mother chrysanthemum requires cuttings.

Three weeks before the start of spring cuttings, the chrysanthemum mother plant is taken out of storage and placed in a bright, cool place for germination (optimally at a temperature of +15 degrees).
When the young chrysanthemum shoots reach 5-7 cm, I cut them with a sharp knife and plant them in picking boxes.

You can also separate growing shoots with existing roots from the mother chrysanthemum bush; but do not plant more than one stem side by side. It is better to immediately place such rooted plants in individual cups.

To ensure that chrysanthemum cuttings take root well, I use pre-prepared loose and nutritious soil mixture, consisting of 2 parts turf soil, 2 parts humus and 1 part sand.

I plant chrysanthemum cuttings in sand and cover them with film (or spray them several times a day).

For successful rooting of chrysanthemum cuttings in early spring, additional lighting is important.
If chrysanthemum cuttings grow poorly, then they need to be fed 1-2 times with complete mineral fertilizer (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).

Feed chrysanthemums throughout the garden season

Chrysanthemums need an abundance of nutrients for good growth and flowering, so they require regular feeding.

During the active growing season, chrysanthemums in open ground need nitrogen fertilizing 2 times a month. As a rule, gardeners use a solution of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20).
Urea is used as a mineral fertilizer - 1 tbsp. for 10 l. water.

When the chrysanthemum bushes have buds, I feed them once with superphosphate and potassium nitrate.

Chrysanthemum requires regular care

The soil around the chrysanthemum bush must be kept moderately moist. Therefore, in dry weather, especially during drought, chrysanthemums should be watered daily or even twice a day.

The success of growing chrysanthemums also depends on the ability to correctly form the bush.

It is necessary to remove stepchildren from large-flowered chrysanthemums in a timely manner.
The bud selection technique is also used for large-flowered chrysanthemums.

In May - June, the plant has a zero bud - if you leave it, then the chrysanthemum will bloom in August, and if you remove it, it will bloom in September.
Therefore, in order for the chrysanthemum to bloom earlier, there is no need to pinch the zero bud.

In small-flowered chrysanthemums beautiful bush formed by pinching shoots.

After planting young plants in open ground, at the beginning of growth and the formation of new leaves, the tops of the plants are pinched - this causes the growth of side shoots with an abundance of buds.

The formed bush of winter-hardy Korean chrysanthemum is an attractive flowering ball that decorates the autumn garden for a long time, right up to severe cold weather.

Antonina Kazankova

Formation of a chrysanthemum bush

Chrysanthemum seedlings obtained from cuttings require special care. Watering and fertilizing for it is carried out in the same way as for other seedlings. However, for chrysanthemums it is very important to properly form the plant during this period. U different types and the formation of varieties is done differently. Of the perennial chrysanthemums in cultivation, the following types are known: hybrid chrysanthemums (Chinese, Indian and their hybrids) and Korean (small-flowered, wintering well in our conditions, popularly called “oaks”).

Korean chrysanthemums in cultivation are the simplest, they do not require special shaping. Seedlings are planted on the twentieth of May at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. The soil around the plants must be well compacted, otherwise there will be strong shoot growth and weak flowering. In the first days after planting, abundant watering is necessary.

Hybrid chrysanthemums are divided into
small-flowered and large-flowered.

During the formation of small flowers. chrysanthemums, by pinching shoots, try to get a well-developed crown with big amount shoots and inflorescences.

To do this, pinch the tip of the shoot above the 4-5th leaf in young plants.
From the remaining buds, 2-4 shoots appear, which are also pinched over the 7-8th leaf.
The result is a plant with a beautiful crown; it produces 20-40 inflorescences or more.

This type of chrysanthemum can be formed in standard form.
To do this, the main shoot is grown to the required height, the top is pinched and all side shoots are removed, leaving only 2-4 on top, the pinching of which is repeated 2-3 times until a well-developed crown is obtained.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are pinched at a height of 10-15 cm, removing the apical bud, since the central shoot, as a rule, produces a poorly formed and small inflorescence. Of the resulting shoots, 1-3 are left, from which all lateral shoots and buds are removed, except for the apical one.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums are usually planted in the ground at the end of May at a distance of 40-50 cm from one another and only at the end of summer are they transplanted into pots or onto greenhouse shelves. Large-flowered plants are transplanted into 11-13 cm pots, tied to pegs and at the end of May they are dug with pots into ridges of open ground (25 pcs./m2).

Kolesnikova E.G.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums: growing secrets

Chrysanthemum. Variety V. Tereshkova

Chrysanthemums are considered favorites of the fading autumn garden; they are the leading flower crop of the late autumn and early winter periods. A large number of bred varieties of chrysanthemums allows you to choose plants for every taste.

Many flower growers around the world classify chrysanthemums as “hobby” plants and collect collections of these wonderful plants. People in Japan are especially sensitive to the culture of chrysanthemums. In Japanese culture, the art of creating dolls from living chrysanthemums even originated.

Unpretentious garden chrysanthemums with small flowers They usually finish flowering in October - when significant frosts occur.
And large-flowered chrysanthemums under the cover of a greenhouse are not afraid of bad weather - they continue to delight with their beauty and freshness for a long time.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are good for cutting; they are widely used to create autumn compositions. Huge flowers of various colors, beautiful foliage on strong tall stems, long-term preservation of freshness in a vase, a combination of the highly decorative nature of large-flowered chrysanthemums with late flowering are the components of the constant and widespread popularity of these majestic and at the same time graceful plants.

Watering and fertilizing large-flowered chrysanthemums

During the period of active summer growth of chrysanthemums, in order to obtain full-fledged flowers in the fall, the main task of plant care is watering and timely provision of necessary nutrients.
At the beginning of the growth of young chrysanthemums, they need to be watered frequently until the root system is strong enough. When watering chrysanthemums, I try not to wet the leaves.

The most important nutritional element for the growth and development of beautiful chrysanthemums is nitrogen, which affects the height of plants, the color and size of their leaves and inflorescences.
With increasing doses of nitrogen added to the soil, the height of chrysanthemums, the size of their leaves and the length of the petals, the diameter and doubleness of the inflorescences increase.
Also, the color of the leaves and inflorescences of chrysanthemums fed with nitrogen becomes more intense, and the plants in general become more decorative.
However positive influence nitrogen on the development of chrysanthemums is observed only with its optimal ratio with other nutrients (mainly phosphorus).

With a lack of nitrogen, chrysanthemum bushes form weak, with pale green leaves and small, irregularly shaped inflorescences; They bloom very late.
When there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil, this nutrient is used by plants secondary (that is, the upper growing part of the shoots “takes” nitrogen from the lower part of the plant). Then the lighter lower leaves on the shoots of chrysanthemums indicate a lack of nitrogen in the substrate.

Excess nitrogen also affects plants negatively: chrysanthemums grow weak, their leaves become dark green, juicy and fragile; Over-fertilized plants also bloom late.

Nitrogen is characterized by a narrow range of optimal doses, so I definitely apply it again - in the form of several feedings (especially during the main vegetative growth of chrysanthemums).

It is best to feed chrysanthemums with natural organic fertilizers: chicken droppings, fermented grass, mullein infusion, vermicompost infusion, etc.

The positive effect of nitrogen on chrysanthemums appears only with a sufficient amount of phosphorus, which is especially important during the formation of inflorescences. Phosphorus accelerates the flowering of chrysanthemums and increases plant resistance to disease.
With a lack of phosphorus, there is a severe delay in the growth and development of chrysanthemum bushes: the plants bloom late and have small inflorescences; the leaves become small, acquire a light green color, and lose their elasticity. In case of severe phosphorus deficiency, the lower leaves of the shoots dry out.

Caring for large-flowered chrysanthemums

During regular plant inspections, dead leaves on chrysanthemum bushes must be removed in a timely manner, since they are primarily affected by pests and diseases. Chrysanthemums are mainly attacked by aphids (most often the so-called “bloody” aphid). Sometimes Indian chrysanthemums in the garden are bothered by sparrows.

I grow large-flowered chrysanthemums propagated by cuttings in the second half of April and May without pinching. And if chrysanthemum cuttings were planted early (in winter and early spring, in February-March), then I pinch such plants to avoid premature flowering. Each pinching delays the flowering of chrysanthemums by 2-3 weeks.
For chrysanthemum varieties “Gazelle” and “V. Tereshkova” I perform pinching no more than twice. The first time I pinch a young plant after rooting, at a height of about 15 cm. The second time I pinch a plant shoot when it reaches a height of 25 cm. I then use the cut tops of chrysanthemum shoots for propagation.

For developing large-flowered chrysanthemums, I usually leave one shoot and one central bud in order to obtain highly decorative, large inflorescences. Sometimes I leave 2-3 shoots on a powerful bush (in this case, smaller inflorescences form on them).

The main way to obtain large inflorescences of chrysanthemums is the timely removal of emerging side shoots and buds - pinching and pinching. If they are removed too late, the main peduncle in the upper part of the shoot grows thin and the inflorescence becomes smaller, which reduces the decorativeness of the plant.
I remove side buds from large-flowered chrysanthemums carefully and as early as possible (as soon as you can grab the side buds with your fingers so as not to damage the remaining main bud).

Since plants of the same variety often develop unevenly, their buds do not form simultaneously, with a difference of 10-15 days. Therefore, during the budding period, in order to timely remove the side buds, it is necessary to check the condition of chrysanthemums several times, every 3-4 days.

Planting and replanting large-flowered chrysanthemums

Large-flowered chrysanthemums of the varieties “Gazelle” and “V. Tereshkova" I grow in open ground until they bloom. Therefore, I plant the plants in the garden in such a way that later blooming chrysanthemums can be covered from bad weather with film or frames. This allows you to obtain high-quality cut chrysanthemums directly from open ground, without replanting plants.

Transplanting chrysanthemum bushes of the "Gazelle" variety significantly affects the quality of the inflorescences. In addition, cut flowers from transplanted bushes cost 2-3 times less than inflorescences from non-transplanted bushes.

Sometimes I plant chrysanthemums in large pots, which I dig completely into the soil of the garden. In August, I remove pots with plants from the ground and move them indoors or in a greenhouse. At the same time, the root system of potted chrysanthemums is not disturbed; they bloom and last much longer when cut than “ground” plants.

Protection of large-flowered chrysanthemums in autumn

When I cover the large-flowered chrysanthemums blooming in the garden in the fall with a film on top from bad weather, I also make sure to stretch the fabric over the plants (for this purpose, you can use any brand of covering material). Otherwise, during the wind, when the film “flapping” under its gusts, drops of condensation flying off the film will fall on the chrysanthemums. Large snow-white flowers of chrysanthemums of the “Gazelle” variety quickly lose their decorative effect and rot when dropped by water, but chrysanthemums of the “Valentina Tereshkova” variety are not so afraid of dripping moisture.

At temperatures below +3 degrees, chrysanthemums of the “Gazelle” variety produce poor flower baskets, the flowers begin to turn black. That’s why I heat up the film greenhouse with chrysanthemums when it’s frosty.
I water the chrysanthemums in the greenhouse generously, but at the same time I try not to let the water get on the leaves.

Wintering of large-flowered chrysanthemums

Indian large-flowered chrysanthemums do not overwinter in open ground in regions with cold climates because they cannot withstand long, frosty winters. Therefore, you need to take care of their wintering: in the fall, the queen cells of large-flowered chrysanthemums have to be dug up and stored in storage for winter preservation.

If in the southern part of Belarus you can leave large-flowered chrysanthemums for the winter in open ground (but only with very careful dry shelter), then in the central and northern parts of the republic it is very risky to do this. In the fall, I dig up chrysanthemum queen cells and store them in the winter at positive temperatures.

To preserve the existing highly decorative large-flowered chrysanthemums for further cultivation, the most best plants During their flowering, I select them for queen cells.
From high-quality queen cells large flowers correct shape, beautiful leaves and healthy appearance of the bushes in general; full-fledged plants form many strong layerings.

The most valuable thing in chrysanthemum mother plants are the layerings that grew during the flowering of the plants. In the future, these layerings will be used to propagate chrysanthemums by cuttings.

Winter storage of large-flowered chrysanthemums is the most critical moment in their cultivation, requiring very precise implementation of these instructions.

After cutting the flowers, I cut off the mother plants of chrysanthemums, leaving the lower part of the shoots up to 10 cm long. I dig up the plants and place the rhizomes very tightly in deep boxes. On top I pour a slightly damp mixture of peat and sand into the box in equal parts (so that only the tops of the layering remain at the top).

I leave the boxes with chrysanthemum queen cells in the greenhouse or on the veranda until it gets cold, without watering them. I take the plants for storage only after the soil in the box with the queen cells has dried out significantly (the drier the better).

Any room without constant lighting, with a temperature from -1 to +5 degrees, is suitable as a storage for large-flowered chrysanthemums.

At this temperature, the rhizomes of chrysanthemums are preserved for sure, the plants do not begin to grow. In such conditions, old chrysanthemum roots do not take root during wintering; valuable cuttings are well preserved.

In winter, I do not water the queen cells of stored chrysanthemums under any circumstances.

If during winter storage If the chrysanthemum queen cells and the tops of their cuttings were eaten by rodents that managed to get into the storage (mice, rats), then there is no need to worry about damaged cuttings.

They will not die from this, it’s just that then in the future there will be no need to pinch the tops of chrysanthemum cuttings.

They are perennials with erect, branched stems that grow from 20 to 120 cm, depending on the variety.

The inflorescence resembles a basket of tubular or reed flowers.

The color of the baskets can be different, as well as the diameter of the inflorescence.

Gardeners decorate their yard with chrysanthemums, because these are one of the most spectacular autumn flowers, delighting with bright shades until frost.

Why chrysanthemums do not bloom if all conditions for care and watering are met, we will consider below.

The signal for the formation of buds on a bush is considered to be a reduction in daylight hours to 8 hours. Flower growers practice artificial shading of plants with a cardboard cap, moving flowerpots with chrysanthemums to a cool balcony in order to achieve flowering not only in autumn, but also in early spring.

Violation of the rules of care results in the absence of buds:

Lighting failures. The lack of light is indicated by pale leaves and elongated stems of the chrysanthemum. An excess of lighting will also affect the condition, when the bush will spend energy only on growing green mass, but without laying buds. The optimal length of daylight for a chrysanthemum is considered to be 8 hours; if the main condition is not met, the plant will not bloom. Separate indoor varieties chrysanthemums feel at ease in direct sunlight, but many lay flower buds under the influence of diffused light. Therefore, it is recommended to place the pot with the plant on a lighted windowsill, but protect it from the sun with light tulle curtains.
Irregular feeding. Nutrient deficiency also does not favor flowering. If the bush grows in poor soil, and has never been fertilized, then the reason becomes clear. You can feed with any complex fertilizer for flowering plants, from early spring to autumn. Doesn't provoke abundant flowering violation of the feeding regime if they are done rarely or the bushes are overfed. They make it a rule to water the pot with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers every 14 days, but first they advise watering the bush clean water so as not to burn the roots.
Temperature fluctuations. If bushes with chrysanthemums are kept at room temperature, you may not wait for flowering - the plant lays buds only if a rest period is observed. During budding and flowering, the bushes are kept at a temperature of 20-22°C, but after the inflorescences dry, they are transferred to a cool room with + 1-5°C. A seasonal decrease in temperature will allow the chrysanthemum to regain its strength and prepare for flowering next year.
Trimming. Trimming and pinching the crop is necessary not only to form a compact shape, but also to stimulate the formation of buds. The signal for pruning is a lot of elongated stems that do not grow side branches. Pinching begins as early as one year old chrysanthemums. After flowering, it is necessary to remove dried flower stalks with pruning shears so that the bush does not waste energy on producing seeds. To set buds, the plant will need a supply of nutrients, and regular pruning will prevent excessive growth of green mass.
Fungal diseases. The presence of root rot can be recognized by fading buds and yellowed leaves. The disease indicates a violation of the rules of care and overwatering of the plant. Immediately transplant the bush into another container, clean the roots from rot, and cut off the deformed buds. Sprinkle the wound surface of the roots with crushed activated carbon to eliminate the spread of the disease. Septoria blight also prevents flowering; its presence is indicated by brown spots on the leaves. In case of fungal diseases, you should tear off the affected leaves and buds and spray the bush with Fundazol. The chrysanthemum is quarantined for 14 days, after which the leaf blades are washed with water and fed with liquid fertilizer. Next season the bush will delight the owner with a hat.
Presence of pests. The scale insect does not allow the chrysanthemum to bloom, spider mite or aphids. If traces of pest activity appear on the leaves—cobwebs or larvae—then the entire plant is washed with soapy water, having previously protected the soil with polyethylene.

The reasons for the lack of flowers are eliminated by proper care, compliance light mode, adding an additional dose of fertilizer. If you follow clear instructions, the chrysanthemum bush will bloom the next season.

Varieties and types of chrysanthemums

What types of chrysanthemums are there regarding the purpose of cultivation?

If in Japan selection is aimed at improving the culinary qualities of a flower, then Chinese or Korean chrysanthemums, which have decorative value, are suitable for our climate zone.

Such species have bright colors, unpretentious to growing conditions, frost-resistant, when cut they last for about a month without losing their original appearance.

Among the abundance of varieties, chrysanthemums are distinguished by species diversity:

According to the size of the inflorescence (large-flowered and small-flowered). In the shape of a flower basket. The tubular flowers are in the center of the basket, which is bordered by one or more rows of reed flowers.
Anemone-shaped chrysanthemums. Pompom chrysanthemums are shaped like a fluffy pompom, consisting of many reed flowers.

Semi-double and double are distinguished by the shape and height of the bush:

Borders reach 30 cm in height, grow in the form of a ball without special pruning. The most spectacular varieties: Talisman, Varvara, Evening Lights.
Medium-sized ones are distinguished by a varied range of colors, height from 30 to 50 cm. They allow you to create interesting compositions on the site. The most popular varieties are Dune, Lelia, and Zorka.
Tall ones need additional support and can grow up to a meter in height. Used to decorate large suburban areas. The following varieties will fill the garden with romance: Amber Lady, Rosetta’s Daughter, Umka.

When decorating a garden, several varieties are used, differing in height and color. The most frost-resistant specimens are left to overwinter in open ground, but subject to the provision of preventive shelter.

Choosing an indoor chrysanthemum

Garden chrysanthemums most often turn into huge bushes; even a border plant is difficult to maintain in an apartment. There is a way out - opt for indoor chrysanthemums, specially created with a smaller bush. For room conditions A low, compact plant is suitable; there should be no traces of insect activity on its leaves and stem.

Types for home breeding:

Chinese chrysanthemums are distinguished by dense bushes, shoots grow up to 30 cm, and the leaves emit a specific smell. Blooms with double flowers.
Shrub chrysanthemums will decorate large rooms and reach up to 1 meter in height. It has erect branched shoots, dissected leaves, and blooms profusely in large baskets.
Indian chrysanthemums do well as a potted plant and tolerate dry indoor air without losing their decorative properties.
Korean chrysanthemums are most often grown with spherical flowers.

When growing a potted crop, care must be taken to replant young plants. If you do not change the soil in the pot every year, the chrysanthemum will not bloom. For an adult bush, replanting once every 2 years is sufficient. The soil is made up of garden soil, rotted compost and sand.

Caring for indoor chrysanthemum

How to properly care for a home chrysanthemum so that the plant blooms profusely?

Take care of optimal level lighting, maintain temperature and water on time, preventing rotting of the root system.

IN winter period provide a period of rest, transfer to a room with a temperature of +1-5°C.

Indoor chrysanthemums will not bloom on windows facing north, because they are considered sun-loving plants.

Southern windows will cause burns on the leaves, wilting of the bush, and drying out of the earthen coma. The best option there will be windows facing east or west.

It is recommended to keep the plant on loggias and verandas, where it is kept cool with an abundance of sunlight and air. When summer comes, move the pot outside, where the chrysanthemum will receive enough light to set flower buds. Miniature forms of chrysanthemums are pruned, like garden plants, and dry inflorescences are also broken off.

This promotes the growth of a densely leafy bush with compact dimensions.

Regular watering is the key to flowering

If you follow the watering rules, you can grow even capricious varieties of chrysanthemums. Monitor the moisture content of the substrate in the pot, preventing the soil from souring. During the period of active growth, it is enough to spill the earthen ball once every two weeks, but if the soil is dry, pour settled water into the pan.

When the plant looks wilted and drops its leaves on hot days, then spraying is carried out in the morning to restore turgor to the green mass.

Feeding will give you a healthy look

Without fertilization, the chrysanthemum will weaken and will not form buds. The bushes react positively to fertilizing with complex fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium. Adult plants are fed once a decade with mineral fertilizers, and every 4 days a solution of mullein and water is applied at the root in a ratio of 1 to 10.

After the buds appear, stop feeding.

Timely transshipment

Young plants are transplanted every year by transferring them into a larger pot. The soil is made up of garden soil, turf, sand and humus, and a little rotted chicken droppings are added. Broken bricks are placed at the bottom of the container for drainage to prevent acidification of the soil. The prepared soil is calcined in the oven or poured with boiling water to destroy the pest larvae.

Surely you know how chrysanthemums bloom. These incredibly beautiful, delicate and colorful flowers delight the eyes of gardeners and summer residents. Chrysanthemums can be red, purple, yellow, pink, white. But what if you don’t have a plot of land where you can grow this miracle? There is no need to despair, chrysanthemum can be grown in a pot, right on your windowsill.

Garden chrysanthemum in a pot

Many novice gardeners are surprised, is it possible to grow a garden chrysanthemum in a pot? After all, a real chrysanthemum is quite large in size, its stem reaches more than a meter in length. The fact is that chrysanthemums are grown only dwarf varieties, which do not grow, but are formed by shrubs. Along with this, such chrysanthemums are treated with retardants. These are means that retard the growth of a plant in length. Thanks to this treatment, the chrysanthemum grows in width, that is, it forms a lush, luxurious bush. In addition, do not be afraid to trim the chrysanthemum stem before the buds appear. This is done in order to suppress the growth of a tall stem and form a bush from the plant. But before that, you need to understand in detail how to grow a chrysanthemum from scratch in a pot.

Planting chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are planted and replanted in early spring, when the plant is still dormant. To plant a chrysanthemum, you can take a sprout from the garden, that is, plant a very ordinary chrysanthemum in a pot. You can replant the plant that you removed for wintering into a new pot. If you want to grow chrysanthemum from seeds, you will need to first grow the seedlings in greenhouse conditions.
Chrysanthemum reproduces well by cuttings and dividing the bush. The last method is the most acceptable, since if you have your own roots, the chrysanthemum almost always takes root.
To grow chrysanthemums, you need to take nutritious soil with sufficient breathability. You need to put drainage at the bottom of the pot - expanded clay pebbles or brick shards. Four parts of garden soil should be mixed with one part of chicken or cow manure, one part of sand and four parts of turf soil. This substrate is placed in a pot and the chrysanthemum is planted so that its roots are completely in the soil.
If you are replanting an adult chrysanthemum, please note that the new pot should be large in size. In the first 3-4 years, the chrysanthemum should be replanted every year, after which replanting may be less frequent.
As soon as you have “settled” the plant in a new place, it should be placed on open air– balcony, loggia, window sill with outside window. But only if the temperature outside has already stabilized above zero.

Despite the fact that a chrysanthemum in a pot is still the same garden flower, caring for it is a little different from the classic one.

Watering. Chrysanthemum loves water and the plant needs to be watered 2-3 times a week, depending on the amount and intensity of sunlight. Chrysanthemum does not tolerate drying out and immediately dies from it. It is best to water the flower when the top of the soil dries out. In winter, the intensity of watering is significantly reduced. If you store chrysanthemum at low temperatures, watering the plant once a month is enough. Excessive watering of chrysanthemums at any time of the year can lead to rotting of the roots. In the summer, you can spray the flower a couple of times a week - this will make it grow better.
Temperature. Chrysanthemum is a fairly non-capricious plant; it calmly survives temperature changes. However, it blooms and develops best in summer at a temperature of 22-24 degrees. The optimal winter temperature is 6-8 degrees. The plant can survive minor frosts down to -3 degrees.
Illumination. When choosing a place for your flower, it is very important to find a natural balance. If you place the chrysanthemum in direct sunlight, the plant will dry out and the flowers will fade too quickly. If you place the plant on the north side, the buds may simply not open. Optimal choice- these are eastern and western windows, that is, places where the sun's rays hit the flower in the morning or evening. Chrysanthemum blooms in autumn, when daylight hours become short, 8-10 hours. Some experienced gardeners create an artificial environment, forcing the chrysanthemum to bloom. That is, every day they cover the plant with a dark cap, simulating night. This way you can achieve repeated flowering of chrysanthemums within a year.
Feeding. Chrysanthemums should be fertilized no earlier than two weeks after transplantation. If you added droppings to the substrate, it means that the chrysanthemum does not need feeding for about two more months. In general, the flower needs to be fertilized only in spring, summer and autumn, when the chrysanthemum is actively growing and blooming. In winter, feeding is stopped. Plants need to be fertilized with compounds containing nitrogen and phosphorus.
Flower molding. Flower shops often sell incredibly beautiful chrysanthemums in the form of a blooming ball. To achieve such a figure, the chrysanthemum needs to be formed in time. To do this, you need to pinch the plant in those places where it goes beyond the frame of the figure. This not only shapes the appearance of the future flower, but also increases the number of young shoots on the plucked branch. Usually in the spring-summer period two or three moldings are enough.
Wintering. When the chrysanthemum has faded, it must be properly sent for wintering so that next spring it will delight you with young green shoots. To do this, all faded buds, dry leaves and stems must be cut off. The plant should have cuttings no more than 10-15 cm in height. After this, the flower along with the pot should be placed in a cool room - entrance, basement, garage. Chrysanthemums can also be transplanted into open ground for the winter. To do this, the plant is dug up along with the root system, planted in the soil, sprinkled with dry soil and leaves. However, this does not guarantee that the flower will survive. In the spring, when the first young leaves appear, the flower can be planted back into the pot.

Chrysanthemum blooms almost always. But if in the fall, with the decrease in daylight hours, the plant still does not please you with flowering, it means that the care was incorrect. Pay attention to the lighting. Chrysanthemum will not bloom if it does not have enough sun. Also, the plant will not please you with flowering if you have not fed it - the plant does not bloom in poor soil with a lack of phosphorus and potassium.

It is important to note that the last pinching should be in the summer. If you pinch your chrysanthemum too late, there is a chance that you are cutting off branches that were intended to produce buds. Don’t delay with molding, and if you didn’t have time to do it in the summer, don’t touch the chrysanthemum so as not to lose its flowering altogether.

What does chrysanthemum suffer from?

Like other house flowers, chrysanthemum can be susceptible to diseases and pests. Most often you can find spider mites on chrysanthemum bushes. You can easily recognize its presence by its thin and sticky web. In this case, immediate treatment is required. The easiest way is to wipe with soap. Dilute in warm water soap solution and gently wipe all the leaves and stems of the plant with it. After this, rinse the indoor flower in the shower, choosing light streams so that the water does not damage the bush.

If you notice a gray coating on your chrysanthemums, it means that the plant is sick with powdery mildew. This is one of the most common ailments. In this case, a fungicide, which is sold in flower shops, will help. Chemical composition diluted in water according to the instructions, and then sprayed on the plant. Usually one treatment is enough. Powdery mildew affects the flower when high humidity. After processing, you should move the pot to a drier room.

If the edges of the chrysanthemum leaves turn brown and the stems have an ashy coating, it means that the plant has become sick with gray rot. Here you will need treatment with foundationazole. But if the indoor air is too dry, the plant can be affected by spider mites. He is being exterminated alcohol tincture garlic

Chrysanthemum is an amazing autumn flower. He plays with colors, delighting his owners with various shades. Proper and competent care will allow you to grow this riot of colors at home yourself.

Video: growing chrysanthemums at home

Chrysanthemums in the garden: causes of flowering problems

Potted chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum is rightly called the queen of the autumn garden. However, flower growers are often disappointed with the negative results of growing chrysanthemums that do not bloom.

Problems resulting in the lack of flowering in chrysanthemums for various reasons are faced by those gardeners who, when choosing suitable plants for their garden, do not take into account a number of important factors that determine the successful flowering of chrysanthemums.

Let us consider in this article the main factors influencing the flowering of chrysanthemums.

Choose early varieties of chrysanthemums for the garden

One of the main reasons for failures with chrysanthemums, which simply do not have time to bloom in open ground before the onset of autumn cold, is the variety of plants.

When choosing chrysanthemum varieties for your garden, study the characteristics of the varieties you like, including paying attention to the flowering period of the chrysanthemum variety.

Early varieties of chrysanthemums, as a rule, bloom from July-August to October.
They usually take 7-8 weeks from bud formation to flowering.

Medium-flowering varieties of chrysanthemums require more time to set buds (9-10 weeks), and therefore they bloom later, in October-November.

Late varieties of chrysanthemums bloom in November-December.

Please note that small-flowered chrysanthemums usually bloom much earlier than large-flowered varieties.

Perform chrysanthemum farming techniques

Remember that chrysanthemum is a short-day plant.

Germinate and cut chrysanthemums in early spring

Another important reason for the lack of flowering in non-frost-resistant chrysanthemums
– after wintering, it is too late to take the mother chrysanthemum out of storage for germination.
This should be done at the beginning of March.

Under no circumstances should you plant a chrysanthemum as a whole bush!
The mother chrysanthemum requires cuttings.

To ensure that chrysanthemum cuttings take root well, I use a pre-prepared loose and nutritious soil mixture consisting of 2 parts turf soil, 2 parts humus and 1 part sand.

I plant chrysanthemum cuttings in sand and cover them with film (or spray them several times a day).

Feed chrysanthemums throughout the garden season

Chrysanthemums need an abundance of nutrients for good growth and flowering, so they require regular feeding.

When the chrysanthemum bushes have buds, I feed them once with superphosphate and potassium nitrate.

Chrysanthemum requires regular care

The soil around the chrysanthemum bush must be kept moderately moist. Therefore, in dry weather, especially during drought, chrysanthemums should be watered daily or even twice a day.

The success of growing chrysanthemums also depends on the ability to correctly form the bush.

It is necessary to remove stepchildren from large-flowered chrysanthemums in a timely manner.
The bud selection technique is also used for large-flowered chrysanthemums.

In small-flowered chrysanthemums, a beautiful bush is formed by pinching shoots.

The formed bush of winter-hardy Korean chrysanthemum is an attractive flowering ball that decorates the autumn garden for a long time, right up to severe cold weather.

Antonina Kazankova

Formation of a chrysanthemum bush

Chrysanthemum seedlings obtained from cuttings require special care. Watering and fertilizing for it is carried out in the same way as for other seedlings. However, for chrysanthemums it is very important to properly form the plant during this period. Formation is done differently in different species and varieties. Of the perennial chrysanthemums in cultivation, the following types are known: hybrid chrysanthemums (Chinese, Indian and their hybrids) and Korean (small-flowered, wintering well in our conditions, popularly called “oaks”).

Hybrid chrysanthemums are divided into
small-flowered and large-flowered.

During the formation of small flowers. Using chrysanthemums by pinching shoots, they try to get a well-developed crown with a large number of shoots and inflorescences.

Kolesnikova E.G.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums: growing secrets

Chrysanthemum. Variety V. Tereshkova

Unpretentious garden chrysanthemums with small flowers usually finish flowering in October - when significant frosts occur.
And large-flowered chrysanthemums under the cover of a greenhouse are not afraid of bad weather - they continue to delight with their beauty and freshness for a long time.

Watering and fertilizing large-flowered chrysanthemums

The most important nutritional element for the growth and development of beautiful chrysanthemums is nitrogen, which affects the height of plants, the color and size of their leaves and inflorescences.
With increasing doses of nitrogen added to the soil, the height of chrysanthemums, the size of their leaves and the length of the petals, the diameter and doubleness of the inflorescences increase.
Also, the color of the leaves and inflorescences of chrysanthemums fed with nitrogen becomes more intense, and the plants in general become more decorative.
However, the positive effect of nitrogen on the development of chrysanthemums is observed only with its optimal ratio with other nutrients (mainly phosphorus).

Excess nitrogen also affects plants negatively: chrysanthemums grow weak, their leaves become dark green, juicy and fragile; Over-fertilized plants also bloom late.

Nitrogen is characterized by a narrow range of optimal doses, so I definitely apply it again - in the form of several feedings (especially during the main vegetative growth of chrysanthemums).

It is best to feed chrysanthemums with natural organic fertilizers: chicken droppings, fermented grass, mullein infusion, vermicompost infusion, etc.

Caring for large-flowered chrysanthemums

Planting and replanting large-flowered chrysanthemums

Protection of large-flowered chrysanthemums in autumn

Wintering of large-flowered chrysanthemums

In order to preserve the existing highly decorative large-flowered chrysanthemums for further cultivation, I select the best plants for queen cells during their flowering.
High-quality queen cells have large, regular-shaped flowers, beautiful leaves and a healthy appearance of the bushes in general; full-fledged plants form many strong layerings.

Winter storage of large-flowered chrysanthemums is the most critical moment in their cultivation, requiring very precise implementation of these instructions.

Any room without constant lighting, with a temperature from -1 to +5 degrees, is suitable as a storage for large-flowered chrysanthemums.

In winter, I do not water the queen cells of stored chrysanthemums under any circumstances.

If, during the winter storage of chrysanthemum queen cells, the tops of their cuttings were eaten by rodents that managed to get into the storage (mice, rats), then there is no need to worry about damaged cuttings.

They will not die from this, it’s just that then in the future there will be no need to pinch the tops of chrysanthemum cuttings.