Internal sewerage frame house basically differs little from the sewage system of stone or timber house. To the main details internal sewerage include a vertical riser, which is discharged through the roof via a funnel outlet, and the lower section goes into a pipe leading to the septic tank; sewer lines running from the bathrooms and kitchen to the main riser. The only difference and advantage sewer system frame house - this is the possibility of it hidden installation. The walls and floors of a frame house are hollow and sewer pipes can be installed without decorative ducts. Therein lies the hidden problem. On the Russian market, 99% of sewer systems are represented polypropylene pipes, which are connected through rubber seals. The material of the pipes is almost eternal, but the rubber rings can dry out over time. As a result, after 10-20 years a putrid smell appears, the source of which will be somewhere behind the drywall and ceramic tiles.
Therefore, in the States and Canada, internal sewerage is carried out PVC pipes on an adhesive connection. Their installation is very simple, but the price in Russia is much different from overseas suppliers. This is due to low demand in the market, problems with delivery and customs clearance, as well as market monopolization. Nevertheless, such pipes exist; they are most often used for water supply to swimming pools and central vacuum cleaners. World leaders: Genova and Nibco, which have representative offices and distributors in Russia. Adhesive PVC sewer systems have different pipe diameters: 1-1/2", 2", 3" and 4". If you choose polyethylene pipes, then the available sizes are usually limited to diameters of 40, 50 and 110 mm. The main riser with a diameter of 110 mm, which will go from the toilets, will be difficult for you to cross frame racks 150 mm wide without losing their stability. Americans use 3" (75 mm) pipes, which allows frame racks to pass through, subject to certain rules.
So, the first stage of installing internal sewerage begins at the stage of designing a frame house. If possible, it is necessary to choose the direction of the ceiling joists so that large sewer pipes (75 or 110 mm) run lengthwise without crossing them. Russian frame houses usually stretch up to the 2nd or 3rd floor, american houses grow down into basement, so we always have more problems with sewerage supply. For the first floor without a basement, it is advisable to leave a working subfloor in order to install sewerage in it, but if this is not possible, then the sewerage branches are led to the main riser as low as possible with a slope of 2 cm per linear meter.
The second stage, we draw a sewerage diagram by hand, indicating how many bathtubs, toilets, sinks, bidets, etc. there will be. From each bathroom with a toilet we run a 110 mm line (3"" for PVC), from the kitchen, shower, dishwasher and washing machine we can lead lines with a diameter of 50 mm (1-1/2"" for PVC). We mark the tees and turns on the diagram, count the linear meters and go buy everything we need. Please note that it is advisable to avoid sharp turns of sewer water from vertical to horizontal sections at an angle of 90 0 and use tees with an entry angle of 45 0 . Non-load-bearing posts can be cut down to half, for load-bearing posts the cut is no more than 25%. In this case, you can hide the pipes in a box or behind the sheathing.
The third stage, which is rarely performed in Russia, is the installation of ventilation for each branch. If the line is a blind area, then during the draining of water the water seal in the siphon may break, which leads to the appearance of a sewer smell from the septic tank. To avoid this, install vacuum valves or arrange a ventilation outlet that connects to the vent riser. In apartments we usually do not encounter such problems, since maximum length the main section is 2-3 m. In a house, the pipe from the farthest bathroom can be 10 meters or more. One solution is to use siphons of smaller diameter than the outlet pipe. For example, from a toilet, a 75 mm outlet usually goes into a main with a diameter of 110 mm; from the bathrooms, a siphon with a diameter of 40 mm passes into a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. The choice is yours.
The fourth stage, an audit access device for each trunk branch. If there is a blockage, we will open the hatch, unscrew the plug and use a cable to push everything into the house riser.
Let's consider key points designing a sewer system in a house on screw piles: the location of the main pipelines and the procedure for their insulation, as well as a schematic diagram of the sewer system in a private house. Screw piles and sewerage are directly related. +
Choosing instead of the usual comfort of a city apartment a private house, no one wants to put up with inconvenience in Everyday life. Sewerage, along with electricity, water supply and others engineering networks occupies a key position in home improvement. Correct device sewerage consists of two stages: providing water supply and its removal. +
In private low-rise construction, two types of sewage systems are used: +
- centralized - part of the local sewer network;
- individual - equipped in the absence of local centralized networks, requires coordination with the State Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision Service, and when discharging wastewater into a reservoir - with environmental protection.
Issues of designing sewer systems are covered in the following SNiPs: +
- 2.04.01 “Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings”;
- 2.04.03 “Sewerage. External networks and structures";
- 3.05.01 “Internal sanitary systems”;
- 3.05.04 “External networks and structures of water supply and sewerage”;
- 02/31/2001 “Single-apartment residential houses.”
Features of sewerage in houses on screw piles
The preference for a pile-screw foundation imposes only one essential requirement on sewer installation: the ditch for laying pipes must be at a standardized distance from the piles. That is why a project is prepared in advance, where the plan shows the placement of screw piles and sewers.
Schematic diagram of sewerage
Clause 5.1.2. SNiP 02/31/2001 the sewerage system in a house on screw piles connected to a centralized network includes: +
- internal network;
- release from the building;
- outlet pipeline.
If it is necessary to build an autonomous sewer system, the concept diagram is supplemented by a septic tank and treatment facilities. +
Internal sewer network
The choice of size and configuration of the internal sewer network is determined by: +
- dimensions of the house;
- location of water supply sources.
The internal network includes plumbing fixtures (sinks, sinks, toilets, bidets, bathtubs, showers, washing machines, dishwashers, etc.), which require their own drainage to operate. The schematic diagram of the internal sewer network consists of: +
- The main line with a diameter of 100 mm, to which the toilet and bidet are connected;
- The main line with a diameter of 50 mm, to which all other plumbing fixtures in the bathroom and toilet are connected;
The main line with a diameter of 50 mm, to which all plumbing fixtures and equipment in the kitchen are connected. +
External sewerage
The lack of connection to a centralized sewer network forces the installation of a wastewater collection tank on the site. According to the standard, it should not be located closer than 5-8 m from the house. The reservoir and the house sewer network are connected by an outlet pipeline laid in a trench with a slope of 2-2.5 cm per linear meter of pipe. +
What to choose: a septic tank or a cesspool?
The wastewater from the outlet pipeline is collected in a reservoir, which can be a septic tank or cesspool. +
A cesspool is a deep pit dug in the ground and reinforced with brick or concrete. Some of the wastewater decomposes, some goes into the ground, but most of it remains in the pit, so it is regularly pumped out. This type of tank is suitable for private houses with a small amount of drainage, or for the time being until a septic tank is built. +
A septic tank consists of a settling tank where wastewater is decomposed bacterially to an insoluble residue. The clarified wastewater enters the filtration well and then disperses through the filter layers into the ground. It is extremely rare (compared to a cesspool) that a septic tank will have to be cleaned of insoluble residues.
Is it necessary to insulate the sewer system in a house on screw piles?
Often a concrete foundation is chosen precisely because it reliably protects the house from the cold, including protecting sewer and water pipes from freezing. Regulations claim: there is no fundamental difference in the insulation of sewers under foundations of various types. +
Concrete easily conducts heat, so it protects the pipes only from the wind, so in both cases the pipes need insulation, and in cold regions, heating. This is much more profitable than heating the entire space under the floor of the house, unless it is used for any purpose. A number of measures will allow you to eliminate the cost of pipe insulation from the estimate. +
Highway slope. Maintaining an inclination angle of 2-2.5 cm for each linear meter of the sewer line guarantees the movement of waste in the direction of the reservoir by gravity, which will prevent plugs from forming and freezing of the pipes.
Year-round use hot water . The water supply runs the risk of freezing at any subzero temperature, while sewage replenished hot water, so they are not in danger of freezing.
Laying pipes below the ground freezing level. According to SNiP 2.04.03-85, in the North-Western and Central regions, pipes should be laid to a depth of 1.2-1.5 m.
It is important to comply with all these conditions exactly, because only then can you avoid spending on insulation sewer pipes. +
Errors and their consequences
Typical mistakes when designing and laying sewerage in a house on screw piles: +
· Excessive proximity of piles to the sewer trench leads to loosening of the soil and weakening bearing capacity piles; +
· Outdated building materials lead to higher cost estimates, so you should not give up modern plastic pipes, which, in addition to their low price, have a long service life; +
· 90-degree turns should be eliminated, replacing each with two 45-degree turns, since each right angle increases the risk of blockage; +
· The use of pipes of a smaller diameter than those recommended by SNiP will lead to blockages due to insufficient throughput. +
On tape or monolithic foundation can be installed by hand. The task is made easier by available components for sewer systems, which just need to be correctly selected and connected into a single network. Study the schemes and algorithm for removing waste water, pay attention to the nuances and possible problems.
The main problems of sewerage installation
Not that hard to do inner part sewerage in the building, how to equip this communication outside. But the sewer system must be impeccable both inside and outside the house.
If the house is located in an area where it is possible to connect to a common central sewerage network, the problem of biological waste disposal is easier to solve. But if you have to make an autonomous system, the task becomes much more complicated, because then its life support must be monitored exclusively by the owner of the house.
In most cases, the sewer system of a private house is connected to a septic tank, and it can be of several types. But there are situations when the sewage system in a frame house cannot end in a septic tank, and other structures have to be used.
Basic principles of connecting a frame house to a sewer system
Planning a sewer system and its installation for a frame house is no different from similar works for other types of private and multi-storey buildings. But there are a number of features and points that are worth paying attention to. In addition, a number of additional requirements to the materials to be used.
Interior sewer system of a frame house is necessary in order to deliver wastewater and other waste from the residents’ activities from the location of the plumbing elements and household appliances outside the house.
It is necessary to connect a toilet, bathtub, shower, sink in the kitchen and washbasin in the bathroom to the sewerage system. In addition, washing and dishwasher, because they use water in their work, so an outflow system must be equipped.
Thus, in general, the sewerage system can be represented as a large network of pipes that connect into one and are designed to remove waste water from the house along with various wastes. Further, outside the building, a common pipe is connected either to the central sewer system or goes to a local waste collection point.
What does the sewer system consist of?
So, any frame house that is built with your own hands or by professionals must have a sewerage system. At the same time, its installation must be planned in advance, during the preparation of the project for the entire house.
It is very important to be ready sewerage project before construction begins, because some of the pipes may pass under the foundation, so they need to be laid in advance. If the house is built, but there is no equipped sewer system, it can be done, but it will be quite an expensive undertaking.
The process of self-construction of a sewerage system can be divided into at least two parts - installation of internal sewerage and external.
- The construction of internal sewerage begins with the installation of all bathrooms and the construction of a network of pipes, which are connected into one at the exit from the house.
- External sewerage consists of elements with the help of which wastewater reaches the septic tank from the house. It does not matter whether the system is autonomous or centralized.
If it is impossible to connect to a centralized sewerage system, it is necessary to ensure the availability septic tank or cesspool , as well as filtration and drainage devices. In addition, some details should be mentioned:
- elements of the sewerage system of a frame house depend on its shrinkage;
- volume of collection container Wastewater depends on the purpose of the building and the number of people living;
- The external part of the sewer system is installed according to generally accepted rules, regardless of the type of structure.
Thus, the sewage system in a frame house is a set of all systems with the help of which wastewater is collected, moved to a storage location and stored until final disposal.
Internal networks
To install a sewerage system in a frame house with your own hands, you need to study all the intricacies of this matter.
So, when installing internal sewerage, it is necessary take into account clearances to protect pipes and shrinkage of the building, which will occur with a foundation on screw piles. Horizontal elements must be placed in such a way that they have a minimum length and are attached to the walls without rough connections.
The optimal material for internal sewerage is polypropylene or PVC pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. As for the toilet, you need to use a 110 mm pipe. Initially, install the distribution pipes from the common bathroom. This means that pipes must be used to connect the toilet, shower, bathtub, and washing machine to the sewer.
To ensure that pipe cleaning in the future occurs as quickly and conveniently as possible, it is recommended to install an inspection at each turn. In addition, it is necessary to seal each seam and joint to increase the strength of the sewer system. The installation of external sewerage does not begin until the internal part has been assembled.
External network
Before you begin installing a common pipe across the site, you need to connect the inside of the sewer with the outside environment. To do this, install the so-called outlet element. Its installation is carried out from the place of wastewater intake to the riser.
Thus, the pipe is installed in the direction of wastewater flows from the toilet and plumbing. Piles and sockets are mounted strictly at an angle of 90 degrees.
When choosing the diameter of the pipes, take it into account so that it absolutely corresponds to the size of the riser. As for the length of the outlet elements, it cannot exceed 12 meters. You can also build a well for collecting sewage with your own hands. For this, brick, plastic, and reinforced concrete rings are used as the main material. Since the well will be installed in damp soil, to protect it the surface should be treated with a special primer.
Preparing the trench for further installation outlet drainage system, make sure that the soil is intact. And in order to completely prevent soil subsidence in the future, add sand to the trench with the pipe and compact it thoroughly. At all joints, a small excavation of the earth is made so that all pipes lie in a straight line without bending.
It should be noted: if the pipes lie at a depth of less than 70 cm, they must be insulated so that they do not freeze in winter.
Features of sewerage design
When planning the installation of a sewer system, take into account the need to slope the entire pipe system downwards. Liquid waste must flow independently and naturally through the sewer elements, and for this they need a downward tendency.
Ideally, the pipeline should be laid straight, without any bends. If bends cannot be avoided, wells should be installed in these places, with the help of which it will be possible to clean a specific section of the sewer.
When choosing a place to locate a septic tank, it is necessary to take into account all construction and hygienic requirements.
Basic materials
Admission clean water into the house and its further removal along with waste products must be of high quality, because the comfort and health of people depends on this. This means that materials for this communication system must be selected very carefully. The most important thing in this case is to choose normal pipes.
They can be made of metal, plastic, asbestos and other materials. Metal pipes are considered the most expensive. Firstly, the material is expensive, and secondly, their installation requires welding machine. But this design is quite strong and reliable.
Asbestos is used exclusively for the sewerage system, since it is not suitable for water supply. These pipes have a very high level of sealing. As for plastic pipes, this is the best and cheapest option.
Stages of implementation of sewerage in a frame house
So, to install any sewer system in a frame house, it is necessary to perform work consisting of several stages. They are discussed below.
Development of an internal sewerage scheme
Before you begin installing a sewer system, you need to draw up a project that will include a communication diagram. The sewerage diagram and design must be done before the design of the entire house is approved. The layout should be carried out in parallel with the layout of the rooms in the house and their functional distribution.
Once the architect or developer understands how the rooms will be laid out and where the plumbing will be located, he can plan how to install the sewer pipes. Therefore, even before the construction of foundations, walls and other similar structures begins, it will already become clear where pipes need to be laid and when to do it.
Experienced developers advise planning a frame house in such a way that the rooms with water supply and sewerage are located next to each other.
- Firstly, in this way the water supply and sewerage network will be smaller, so the risk of all kinds of accidents and leaks will be significantly reduced.
- Secondly, the implementation of the project will be cheaper, because the builders will then spend a minimal amount on pipes and other materials that will not have to be pulled throughout the house.
Determining where the central riser will be located
Even at the stage of creating a sewerage system project, it is important to decide not only on the layout of the sewer pipes, but also to clearly indicate where the central riser will be located.
The main function of this design element is to combine all internal sewerage networks into one and remove wastewater outside the house. It is important to select the central riser so that the total length of the sewer pipeline has a minimum length inside and outside.
When developing a sewer system in a house, clearly mark all living rooms and household premises where the plumbing fixtures will be. This makes it easier to determine where to place the central riser. Once its location is established, the entire network of pipes of the sewerage system is drawn.
At the same time, special attention is paid to all joints, tees, bends and other elements. This is important in order to understand at the planning stage how many particular parts and assemblies are needed.
As soon as the most ideal sewerage diagram inside the house is drawn, they begin to calculate how many pipes and other elements it will need.
Installation of sewerage in the house
Of all the sewer installation work, the most difficult is to install pipes directly in the house. The work includes placing pipes according to the design, connecting them and securing them securely. It is almost impossible to do this part of the work yourself in a large frame house, so it is worth looking for an assistant. After all, the pipes will move from room to room, connect different elements, so you will need at least two people to install them.
Physically, these jobs are not very difficult. The only problem is the large volume of this work. All parts of the sewerage pipeline are now much lighter than before, so their installation is quite simple.
So, if the elements are connected end-to-end, then it is enough to drive them into a special groove with a rubber seal - the connection will be airtight. And in order to avoid possible leaks in the future, all joints and joints are treated with a sealed silicone compound.
The best place to locate sewer system pipes are openings in the walls and free cavities under the wooden floor joists. When installing the system, it is very important to ensure that gravity flow is maintained, because water should flow down without the influence of any pumps, but only under the influence of gravity. This means that the point where the sewer exits the house must be lower than all other pipes in the house.
Of course, you can also install pressure sewerage. Its difference is the presence of special pumps that create the movement of water flows against gravity, directing them in the right direction. But it makes sense to install such a sewer system only in exceptional cases.
For example, the owner wants to remove the laundry room from the house and make it in the basement. Then you will have to install a pressure sewer so that wastewater from washing machines moved upstairs.
If the sewage system is carried out in the classic gravity version, it is necessary to achieve the appropriate angle of inclination of the pipes. So, for 50 mm pipes a slope higher than 3-4 cm is used, and for larger pipes 2-3 cm per meter of length is sufficient.
Sewage outlet equipment
Installing a sewer outlet point outside the house is a very important step. And there is no meaning here, will be used autonomous system wastewater disposal or centralized. A release point is used to connect the inside and outside of a home's drain.
Typically, builders install this part of the sewer in close proximity to the riser. It is recommended to install the outlet almost immediately, before installing other elements of the sewer system.
To prevent water and sewage from freezing in this pipeline, the outlet point must be deep in the foundation at a depth of more than 1 meter. If you live in a warm region where the ground does not freeze so much, you can position the outlet higher.
In order not to waste energy and resources later on making a hole, it is better to immediately take it into account when pouring the foundation. If this is not done, you will have to spend a lot of time working with ready-mixed concrete to get the hole you want.
Installation of the riser and connection of the system
It is best to install the riser in the room where the toilet will be located (a separate toilet or a shared bathroom with a bathtub). This is confirmed by recommendations that require that the pipe length from the toilet to the location of the riser should not exceed one meter.
The sewer pipes themselves are usually installed under a wooden floor or inside frame wall- this is the most convenient. The installation of such pipes can be done closed or open. Of course, the closed type looks more successful, because the pipes are hidden from the viewer’s eyes. But if you need to repair the sewer system or clean up its individual sections, this will be much more difficult to implement.
To make the sewage system work more efficiently, it is recommended to connect the riser to horizontal pipes using bends with oblique entry and tees.
Removing the drain pipe
This is the most inconspicuous part of the sewer. But it is very important for the functioning of the entire system, because this pipe provides the supply of external air to the pipe system, thereby reducing the risk of blockages in them. 
By technology fan pipe must be connected to the riser. But if installed incorrectly, this can lead to a nasty smell in the house. To avoid this, you need to remove the fan pipe separately and not connect it to ventilation system. In addition, there should be no opening windows or balconies in the area where the waste pipe exits.
What materials to use for sewerage in a frame house
As already mentioned, the most optimal choice for the sewerage system inside the house is gray plastic pipe. At the same time, to drain ordinary wastewater from the bathroom, kitchen and shower, it is better to use a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, and for wastewater from the toilet - with a diameter of 100 mm or higher.
After studying the technology for installing sewerage in a classic frame house, it becomes clear that with a serious approach this work can be done independently. It is only important at the very beginning to design everything in advance, calculate the quantity necessary materials and take into account all the requirements that are put forward for this design.
Video: installation of sewerage in a house on a pile foundation
All the intricacies of installing a sewer system in a frame house on stilts are described in the video.
In the absence of centralized system local sewerage is used, ensuring ease of use of plumbing equipment. Domestic wastewater is discharged by gravity to treatment facilities located on the site. They purify up to 70 - 99%, after which the water is discharged into the ground without fear of silting or clogging the site. At minimal cost the owner country cottage receives maximum convenience.
Autonomous sewerage scheme
There are SES and SNiP standards, according to which local sewerage for country house must have a distance from significant objects:
house wall/foundation – 4 m
fence – 5 m
water intake well – 50 – 15 m
soil boundary – 5 m
roots of mature trees – 3 m
rivers/streams – 10 m
reservoirs – 30 m
The operating principle of an autonomous drainage system is as follows:
wastewater is collected from plumbing fixtures inside the building (sinks, sinks, toilets, bathtubs, showers, dishwashers, washing machines)
through inclined pipes they enter external sewerage, reach treatment plant
A septic tank consists of several connected chambers, in the first the liquid settles with the deposition of large particles
after which, the wastewater enters a chamber with anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic matter without air access
Water purified to 70% is fed by gravity into an infiltration system - a field or well, from where it is discharged into the ground for soil purification
Thus, the first chamber of the septic tank is subject to periodic cleaning (once a year). There are aerobic modifications in which sewage is decomposed by bacteria of the same name. For their normal existence, constant air circulation is necessary. A compressor (aerator) is lowered inside the chamber, and the system becomes energy-dependent. In combined septic tanks, anaerobic filtration occurs in the second chamber, and anaerobic filtration in the third, which allows water to be purified up to 98%. In the event of a power outage, the treatment plant switches to anaerobic treatment mode.
The filtration well is used in sandy soils, loams, and other soils with normal absorption. The presence of clay on the site makes it impossible to discharge treated wastewater through a well. In this case, aeration fields are installed, which are rows of perforated drainage pipes laid in parallel on a natural filter. Crushed stone, gravel, granite sowing, and slag act as a filter. For the filtration field, a meter-long pit is dug, its bottom is covered with a 20 mm layer of sand, a 20 mm layer of crushed stone, on which pipes are laid. The drainage is sprinkled with crushed stone, and the top fertile layer is returned to its place. The owner gets the opportunity to use the site.
Attention: Autonomous drainage systems require high-quality ventilation, since, in the process of life, aerobic and anaerobic bacteria emit a large amount of gases.
The ventilation pipe is located inside the house and is a continuation of the internal sewer riser. It is called a vent pipe, it is installed 0.7 - 1.5 m above the roof. An alternative to the vent pipe is a vacuum valve for sewerage, mounted at the top point of the riser.
Features of autonomous drainage systems
When installing a septic tank, a minimum depth is used to ensure a reduction in volumes earthworks. The main pipe, which is a horizontal continuation of the internal riser, usually exits the foundation at a depth of 0.5 - 1 m from ground level. With a minimum distance of the septic tank from the cottage (4 m), observing the gravity slope of the pipe (plus 4 cm), the user will have to make a pit 3.5 m deep (for a 2.5 m Topas 5 septic tank) measuring 1.5 x 1.5 m. For a filtration well, exactly the same hole is enough; for an aeration field, you will have to dig a pit 3 x 3 m with a depth of 3.5 m.
Attention: The wastewater comes from the house warm, therefore, the line from the cottage to the septic tank is not afraid of freezing.
For insurance, it can be insulated with a polystyrene foam casing and wrapped mineral wool. The activity of bacteria inside Topas 5 is accompanied by the release of heat, therefore, the cameras are not afraid of the most extreme cold. The water supplied to the well and aeration field is warm; this part of the system is also not afraid of frost.
IN difficult cases(high groundwater level, clay on the site) instead of dumping into the ground, the mine method is used. On the aeration field, a network of wells is drilled down to the sand layer, pieces of perforated pipes are inserted into them, and covered on top with a fine mesh. After which, they lay it on top of this network drainage pipes. Thus, the absorption area for large volumes of daily wastewater increases.
Elements of local sewerage
Autonomous sewage system in a frame house consists of the following elements:
treatment facilities - septic tank, VOC station, aeration tank, differing in wastewater treatment technology (anaerobic, aerobic, mixed)
pipelines - from smooth-walled PVC products (connected with sockets), HDPE (welding, installation with fittings), PP (connection with fittings, butt welding, electrofusion welding), from perforated corrugated pipes (aeration fields)
wells - inspection, corner, differential, used for maintenance and cleaning of pipelines
infiltration structures - fields, aeration wells, surface cassettes designed to discharge wastewater into the soil
ventilation - drain pipe or vacuum valve, pipes mounted on drainage corrugations of aeration fields
tanks - used in difficult cases (discharge of treated wastewater is impossible), buried in the ground, periodically emptied by vacuum trucks
It is prohibited to connect storm drains, drainage, or discharge water from swimming pools, ponds, fountains used in outdoor sewer systems. landscape design plot. Otherwise, the septic tank will overflow, contamination will occur, and the soil of the site will become silted.
Attention: For the bathhouse, its own autonomous system of lower power is being built in compliance with SNiP and SES standards.
Technology for installing an autonomous sewer system using the example of a Topas 5 septic tank
There are more than a hundred varieties of septic tanks; they have horizontal and vertical chambers. To service the internal cavities, a neck with a hatch is brought to the surface of the earth. The inlet into which the main pipe is connected is located 0.5 - 1 m from the zero mark. During production local sewerage a set of works is being carried out:
a project is being drawn up outdoor system– soil type, groundwater level, septic tank model are taken into account
a pit and trenches are made - from the house to the treatment plant, from the septic tank to the aeration well
the bottom of the pit or trench is covered with a 10 cm layer of sand or gravel with mandatory compaction
with high groundwater level, heaving soil, it is laid or poured onto the bottom of the pit concrete slab, to which the Topas 5 septic tank is attached with clamps (necessary for stabilizing the situation)
an infiltration system is installed (the inlet should be located at a level that ensures gravity flow from the outlet of the septic tank, a decrease of 4 cm per meter)
structures are tied with 110 mm socketed PVC pipes, socketless polyethylene products (welding method)
For various conditions the manufacturer produces modifications of the treatment plant. For example, for deeply buried main pipes (depth greater than 0.8 m), the line includes the Long model. At high level The UGW uses the PR model, in which a pump is mounted that discharges treated wastewater into a sealed underground tank. From this container, liquid is pumped out by sewer trucks as it is filled, or the water is used for irrigation. Surface cassettes located above groundwater can be used. Purified water is pumped into them with a pump; the cassettes are located in a layer of natural filter.
Video instructions for installing local sewerage:
While completing the walls of my frame house, I realized that it was time to think about future communications. At the same time, real autumn began, which meant rains and time for research. It's time, I decided. Now is the time to take care of communications while waiting for dry days - and I sat down to prepare for the design and subsequent wiring of communications in my future frame house.
Of course it's better to have project of all communications: heat supply, water supply, sewerage, ventilation and electrics at the frame design stage. But few amateur builders can afford this, because there is simply not enough time to study everything before starting construction. And there’s no time at all at the construction site.
For now, this post is quite theoretical, since I have just started working in communications. I will definitely update this text when the time comes, and when my experience in installation and design of communications is fully accumulated and comprehended.
I hope that my research on the design of communications in a frame house will be useful to you. Moreover, voting on the site showed particular interest in this topic.
Communications in a frame house. Review
Short review communications traditionally held in a frame house:
- heating
- ventilation
- electrician
Communications in a frame house. Heating
First of all, you need to decide what fuel to use for heating your frame house.
Heating can be gas (mainline or from a cylinder), electric, diesel or solid fuel (in particular, a stove).
After you have decided on the fuel, you need to select the heating pipes:
— polypropylene(PPR) - the simplest option and the most frequently used “by the people”. Among the advantages: the cheapness of pipes and fittings (although real European PPR is no longer so cheap, if the PPR is very cheap, think about it, this is clearly a Chinese fake), ease of installation (even by a non-professional), the tools you need are special budget scissors and the same budget soldering iron. cons: not the best reliable pipe, unobvious quality of installation (you can’t look inside).
— metal-plastic- also a frequently used material. Pros: pipe flexibility, easy installation, average price. of the minuses: frequent complaints about the quality of pipes and the tightness of fittings.
— cross-linked polyethylene PeX- a more decent material, used for underfloor heating pipes. Pros: reliability, durability. of the minuses: the price is already decent, you need an expensive tool for installation, installation is more complicated, the pipe is “unruly”.
— copper- the most expensive and “cool” material. In Canada, this is essentially the only one they use. A very durable material, but also very expensive (but then the fittings are cheap).
For installation you only need a torch and, most importantly, “straight” hands. They often say that in the end the cost turns out to be a little more expensive than even PPR, I myself have not yet decided on the final opinion, but copper is certainly good.
I'm leaning towards cross-linked polyethylene like the golden mean in terms of price/quality. But, of course, I’m not talking about polyethylene from Rehau, it’s “golden” in price, there are decent analogues for it in Russia in terms of affordable price.
Frame house can be heated as warm floors, and radiators. The second, although not so beautiful, is much simpler and more repairable, but we are building a frame for ourselves? I chose for myself bimetallic radiators, which combine the advantages of steel (strength) and aluminum (heat dissipation) radiators.
Perhaps I will still install heated floors, but I will add this information to the post later.
Now you need to decide heating system.
It happens like single-pipe, so two-pipe. Single-pipe is a relic of the past and now it is not recommended to use it, the pipes for it need to be thick, and the heat regulation in it is lame. So I am definitely in favor of a two-pipe heating system in a frame house, and in any other one.
After choosing a system (if it is a two-pipe system), you need to determine whether your pipes will go in the same direction throughout the house ( serial circuit), or in two or even three ( collector circuit). In the first case, if the route turns out to be too long, then the last rooms in this sequence may not have enough heat; do not forget also the need for “high thresholds” entrance doors, there will be a pipe going into them, so I am in favor of a two-pipe collector system.
For example, it looks like this:
Correct connection of a large radiator (diagonal). 
If you do not connect it diagonally, but, for example, make both the entrance and exit from it in its lower parts, then such a radiator will give off much less heat, it will simply not warm up all the way.
Communications in a frame house. Electrics
The power supply system of a frame house consists of an external and internal electrical network. The internal one, in turn, consists of a panel, sockets, switches and current consumers. In our area, the current is usually connected from a pole through the air, after which the input node into the house must be grounded again, even if grounding has already been done at the pole.
First we decide on the layout, then we think through all future consumers in our layout ( household appliances, devices, etc.). It is especially necessary to determine precisely the “special” consumers (stove, refrigerator, hob, boiler,
These consumers are special, they either have their own special machine or they must be placed on a special non-disconnected line, etc. This is not your headache, but the headache of the designer of your future shield (I would not dare to design the shield myself, there are a lot of subtleties in this matter).
It's best to find a professional you trust. As with, it is better to trust this matter to an experienced designer, and not to a fly-by-night company.
After you have designed and installed the shield, you will need to route the cables from the circuit breakers around the house. Ideally, you should be provided with a specific panel diagram with an explanation for each machine. In my case, it looks like this: 
Those. from two circuit breakers that are attached to one RCD there are 3 phase wires going to 3 bedrooms. And already there they come to the first block of sockets in the bedroom, from which they go to the second block of sockets, etc. The same applies to the kitchen and living room and other rooms.
Ideally, you also need to have a separate shield for (if you have one in the house).
This is what my two electrical panels look like: 
Communications in a frame house. Sewerage
Through the sewer system in a frame house There are a lot of materials on the Internet, so let’s just look at the sewerage diagram in a frame house and methods for installing sewer pipes in a frame house.
Sewage pipes are laid with a slope of 2 centimeters per meter so that everything rolls down and does not freeze. At the same time, they do not need to be buried to the freezing depth; even half a meter will be enough, because Liquids there run quickly and do not have time to freeze. Just remember to help hard waste pass through the right place and drain more water with them.
Sewer pipes have standard diameter- 110 mm. Outside the house and underground, you must use red pipes; inside (and under the house, but in the air) you can use gray pipes.
Internal sewerage can be installed directly in the floor joists (the most common option), or above the floor (not very beautiful).
The best option for a container for draining sewage, in my opinion, is a regular plastic septic tank for 2-3 cubes, I have my eye on it septic tank "Mole", it has fairly thick walls (stiffening ribs 15 cm), round shape and at an adequate price, as well as with delivery throughout Russia (5 thousand rubles to Nizhny Novgorod, if my memory serves me correctly).
Other advantages of this septic tank (according to the manufacturer and reviews on the forumhouse) are that it will not float up at high groundwater levels, due to the anti-float fastener welded to the septic tank in production, which means there is no need to pour a concrete slab under the septic tank.
General diagram of external sewerage and drain riser. 
In the picture: 1 - septic tank, 2 - filter well, 3 - fan exhaust riser.
Sewage discharges first enter the septic tank for primary natural treatment, where contaminated sediment is released, and the “clarified” the water is flowing into the filter well. After which, even more purified water goes into the lower layers of the soil. such a system is allowed only if groundwater no closer than a meter in depth from the bottom of your filter well (and with sufficient soil absorption).
And here is a video with the installation of a horizontal “Mole” for a frame house:
The liquid comes out of the septic tank after a few days, having already settled, and it can be discharged into a filter well for additional purification with gravel, and then through the gravel into the ground (but this is only possible if the groundwater is no closer than a meter deep from the gravel). By the way, I chose a “Mole” with a volume of 1.8 cubic meters for my house with 3 residents, you don’t need more, you can install it yourself with 1-2 assistants.
Communications in a frame house. Ventilation
Ventilation in a frame house- an absolutely necessary thing, because it works like a huge “thermos” and is all wired up plastic film, on which the steam settles. It needs to be ventilated, and people need fresh air.
Ventilation of a frame house is needed for: inflow fresh air and drawing out already used air (from carbon dioxide) out.
Inflow air in frame houses is usually provided through windows (micro-ventilation, or vent), although there are also options with KIV dampers mounted directly into the wall (and their analogues), as well as more advanced systems of forced air flow with recovery (but for economical home not entirely relevant).
Extracting used air usually done through a pipe that goes from the room to the roof. It can work both in the “natural draft” mode (but this is a problem this summer, because the temperature difference is small, which means it won’t “pull”), and on fans that force air out when turned on (which can be also powered, for example, from the light in the bathroom or kitchen).
Hood in a frame house need to do:
a) in the kitchen (through a special umbrella)
b) in bathrooms (you can go through the wall, but it’s better not to do that)
c) from a gas boiler in the boiler room (possibly through the wall)
d) from the hall with bedrooms (and if there are cracks under the bedroom door, then air will be drawn out through this corridor from there too)
e) from (if a gas boiler with an open burner is used).
Ventilation of a frame house- this is a very responsible and important matter, do not listen to those who say that the walls “breathe”. A frame house breathes only if you have a frame-slit house from crooked builders; a real frame house does not breathe, it is a thermos with a sealed film inside.
Communications in a frame house. Water supply
In a frame house there can be two options for water supply: central water supply or your own source. Your source is, in turn, a well or borehole.
In a well it can work as submersible pump(hanging in the well itself, more reliable), and the station (standing in the boiler room, not so reliable and also often noisy).
General water supply scheme: 
Let me remind you that we can make it convenient and understandable for you at an affordable price, or select it for you in accordance with your wishes.
Stay in touch, ask questions, let's build the right frame houses!
