How to make homemade emery for sharpening tools. How to make a sharpening machine from a washing machine engine. Why do knives get dull?

Every man in the house would benefit from a convenient sharpening machine. After all, the owner is often judged by how sharp this kitchen tool is.

There are many techniques for sharpening knife blades. For example, for a process carried out at home, only a turning block or ready-made devices with an angular gap shape will be sufficient.

To adjust expensive hunters' knives, European manufacturers produce devices in the form of solid bars, the basis of which is a high-strength alloy.

This article will describe how to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Why do knives get dull?

What is the reason why a knife becomes dull when cutting? This can be explained by the fact that the cutting edge is negatively affected by abrasive particles that are present in the material being cut. For example, they are present on vegetables and paper. Speaking in simple language, the blade is subject to gradual wear.

The next reason is the inability to hold the blade in the desired position all the time. Any trembling of the hand causes the knife to tilt, which entails a lateral load.

Sharpening technique

The sharpening technique consists of unified, but at the same time quite labor-intensive methods. The main task is to eliminate damage to the blade. It should be noted that for many, such a procedure as sharpening knives provides a good mood and peace of mind.

The main rule in this process is to maintain a precisely specified constant angle. No force required here. The main thing is that the block and blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of the sharpening technique.

What needs to be done to maintain a constant angle?

In order for the angle to have a constant indicator, there are two ways. The first is to acquire the sharpening skill. The angle indicator can be controlled using a regular marker. They should paint over the connections and, after several sharpening cycles, see how well the paint is preserved. If it is worn unevenly, then the blade is not processed well.

If the knife being sharpened is decorative, then you should seal the blade with tape so that only the cutting edge remains open. Even if you misdirect your hand, there will be no scratches on the blade.

An important point is that the direction of the blade along the block is perpendicular to the edge at the points of contact. This is actually quite difficult to do. It is acceptable for the angle between the edge and the blade to be less than 90 degrees. But when directed along cutting edge this indicator is not suitable.

The abrasive particles of the stone can leave grooves on the blade that will never be sharpened, but will play a positive role when cutting. If the grooves are oriented along the cutting edge, then they will be of no use during cutting. The worst thing is that the cutting edge may break off altogether.

It is important that the bar is long. It should be one and a half or two lengths of the blade. It is allowed for the diamond block to be somewhat shorter, as it grinds faster and better. Its width does not play a significant role. If it is wider, then it is more convenient to work on it and there is less chance of the blade moving beyond the limits of the device. It might damage him lateral surface or a blade.

There are homemade devices for sharpening knives different designs. All that is required from the manufacturer is availability the required material and tool skills.

The principle of operation of such a device as a manual machine for sharpening knives with your own hands is to hold the knife blade in a vertical position and drive it along a block fixed at the desired angle. This is much easier than placing the sharpening stone horizontally and holding the knife at the desired angle.

In order to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, you need a piece of laminate, a wooden strip, sandpaper and a couple of bots with lambs. Chipboard or plywood can serve as a replacement for laminate.

To make a knife holder, you need to cut off some of the material. To prevent the block from touching the holder when sharpening, you should sand its edge at an angle using sandpaper.

It is necessary to mark and cut off the top of the vertical post, which will serve as a support for the block. The angle chosen is half that at which the knife will be sharpened. For kitchen knives It is recommended to take an angle of 10-15 degrees.

A machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, the drawings of which are prepared in advance, requires the correct calculation of the length of the base of the racks. Please note that the height indicator will be affected by the subsequent installation of the transverse support. After this, all parts are trimmed and the edges are cleaned.

Holes are marked and drilled in the base and plate for pressing the bolts that secure the blade. When marking, the distance of the holes from the edge of the base is maintained. This is necessary for the versatility of the device, since all knives have their own width. The pressure plate is secured with bolts.

Vertical posts are secured with screws. It is also taken into account that the load on the bottom is small. In this case, it is better to resort to using thermal glue. The horizontal crossbar is attached in exactly this way. The sharpening device is almost ready. All that remains is to make the block.

To make it, a strip of the required length is cut. Sandpaper is glued to one edge with the right size abrasive To optimize the result, you can resort to making several bars with different grain sizes. The range P600 - P2000 is considered the best. To protect your hands from cuts, you need to screw the handle on the top side of the rail.

The result is a homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, characterized by high functionality and practicality. When working, the device rests against the edge of the table, which is quite comfortable when using it.

There are also other types of machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. IN in this case it is based on an M8 threaded rod. Two large washers and nuts are used, which serve to hold a bar 200 mm long.

Covers the thread. A pair of paper clips serve as clamps for the guide stand on the required height. This ensures smooth adjustment of the sharpening angle. The base is made of timber, the thickness of which is 40 mm. It is supported by hand.

How to sharpen jointing knives with your own hands

Every owner who has a plane or jointer has probably encountered the problem of sharpening their knives. It is expensive to purchase new ones periodically. Knives can be easily sharpened with your own hands. In this case, specialized machines are used, or if it is used constantly, it would be better to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself machine for sharpening a jointer knife

To sharpen a jointer knife, special sharpening equipment is used. The machine for sharpening knives with your own hands has a compact size. It can be installed in a garage or on a personal plot.

Many people are interested in how to make a knife sharpening machine with their own hands. To make a device you need to find certain parts. Perhaps similar spare parts are lying around in your barn or garage. They can also be purchased via the Internet.

A machine for sharpening jointing knives with your own hands consists of:

• faceplates;
• table;
• engine;
• vacuum cleaner;
• casing.

The first thing you should do is find the faceplate. This is the most important component of future equipment. She is the one responsible for the sharpening process. The jointer knives are narrow, and the faceplate guarantees complete and safe sharpening. You will have to buy this part new, but the rest can be used even as old ones.

It is better to purchase faceplates of German or American production. The average cost of a part is 25,000 rubles.

The next step is to find a motor whose power should be 1-1.5 kW. There is no need to buy it. Anyone will do, even old ones washing machine. But everyone probably has a table, a casing and a vacuum cleaner.

Main stages of device manufacturing

When the table is selected, the engine is fixed directly below it. A faceplate is attached to the moving part. The engine must initially be equipped with a button that turns the unit on and off. It should be conveniently located.

For reliable protection the faceplate is covered with a casing square shape with one corner cut out. It is this area that needs to be sharpened.

A hole of the same diameter as the vacuum cleaner hose is made on the lower surface of the table in the sharpening area. The presence of a vacuum cleaner is not essential, but it is advisable to install it. It removes unnecessary dirt from blade processing.

What do you need to know?

The engine mount under the base of the faceplate is not prerequisite. You can make sure that the parts are connected using a belt. In this case, the design will be more complex.

A do-it-yourself jointer knife sharpening machine is also suitable for saws and axes.

Ice screw sharpening

The sharp knives of the ice drill enable the fisherman to quickly make holes in the ice of reservoirs. However, over time, any cutting tools become dull and require sharpening.

For fishermen, a high-quality ice auger is a great source of pride. Often, true competitions on the speed of drilling ice holes are held on reservoirs. And victory does not always smile on young and strong fishermen who are armed with imported equipment. There are times when experienced fishermen, equipped with simple tools Soviet made. Cause high speed Drilling a hole lies in good sharpening of the knives and correct settings of the device. Beginner fishermen, having bought new Swedish devices, do not even have time to blink an eye before their knives become dull. Tiny grains of sand and pebbles in the ice contribute to the formation of chips and gouges on the blade.

Sharpening of devices is carried out by the most different ways. Many of our ancestors did not even know what professional sharpening was. In most cases, sharpening was performed using hand-made devices.

Homemade ice drill machine: what will you need to make it?

To make a device such as a knife sharpening machine, you will need two strips of steel, the thickness of which is 4 mm, the width is 60 mm, and the length is 200 mm. A spring from a car is often used as a strip. But it is very difficult to bend.

Progress

First you need to make the device case. The steel strips are bent in such a way that the chamfers of the knives pressed to the ends of the arc are not only parallel, but also in the same plane.

After making an arc from the same steel strip, a pressure plate is bent, which serves as a clamp for the knives being sharpened

Holes for M12 or M14 bolts are drilled in the body and pressure plate. Having tightened the body and the pressure plate using a bolt and nut, we clamp the knives between them and check the strength of their adherence to the surface of the end of the emery circle.

If the knives are not located at the required angle (the chamfers do not fit exactly to the circle), then the device is modified by bending the body arc to the appropriate level. If the knives are positioned correctly, then the structure is disassembled, and stiffeners are welded to the body arc on both sides.

Sharpening knives is best done on a knife that rotates horizontally. In this case, when wetting the knives with water, the latter remains on the blade and stone longer, ensuring their safety. Dip knives in water frequently. This will help prevent the steel from overheating.

Disadvantage of the device

The disadvantages of the device include the impossibility of sharpening knives with different cutting chamfer angles. But each ice drill manufacturer offers its own models. In this case, a universal device is suitable.

Making a universal device for sharpening an ice drill

The universal design allows you to sharpen knives at any cutting edge angle. By smoothly changing the angle between the arms of the unit, on which the knives are fastened with screws, you can fix the desired position of the knives in relation to the plane of the grindstone.

To make this device you need to find door canopy with minimal backlash, as well as an M8 or M10 screw with its own nut. Holes are drilled in the canopy arms. Their diameter is 6-7 mm (for attaching knives to them with screws).

A fixing plate with a slot for a fastening screw is made from a steel strip, the thickness of which is 3 mm. The plate and screw are welded to the canopy arms.

It happens that knives are sharpened, the location of the holes does not correspond to the holes in the canopy. In this case, additional holes are drilled in the arms for non-standard knives. In this case, the device has greater versatility.

How are planer knives sharpened?

Tools such as planers and surface thicknessers can often be seen in country houses. Through them, raw lumber is brought to the desired state. The knives of these devices, like any other, become dull. If you use them often, then the best solution would be to sharpen your planer knives yourself. To make sharpening equipment at home you will need various materials: metal, aluminum or wood.

A knife holder can be made from wooden block. Made through circular saw cuts at 45 degrees, you can sharpen knives with a belt grinder or a large block. If the latter is not present, then smooth surface made of metal, wood, chipboard or glass, sandpaper is attached.

Knife holders can be made from scrap materials. The optimal solution will be used metal corners, which have an indicator of 90 degrees. When placing two knives on the sides, the sharpening angle of each will be 45 degrees. Using screws, you can secure the knives with a second corner.

In their practice, radio amateurs are often faced with the need to sharpen different instruments, somehow - a screwdriver, an awl, a small drill, or other tool. “So what,” the skeptic will say, “I have an industrial machine, and I’ll sharpen it on it.” I don’t argue that with good skills, anything is possible. But it is better to choose for the job the one that is most suitable for this. Then the work gets better, and there are fewer defects. And, such a “sharpener” will always be at hand, you can put it away in the closet at any time and take it out when necessary. My wife once bought such a serious device at a sale, the seller claimed that he himself sharpens knives (what else can a woman be interested in).

We sharpened it a couple of times and came to the conclusion that with our hands on the block, better sharpening it turns out - this can be easily determined by the number of cut fingers half after sharpening. And there it lay, collecting dust in the cabinet, until it dawned on me good idea. It might not have dawned on me if my favorite drill of a deficit diameter had not broken. While I was sharpening it on a large sharpener (and my eyesight, alas, is not what it used to be), I ground off almost everything. So I thought that if there had been a normal sharpener, everything would have turned out differently. But this is a fixable matter. To begin with, I removed such a beautiful abrasive wheel from that sharpening monster. Then, after rummaging through the bins, I found a DPM gathering dust.

I quickly sketched out a drawing and went to the turner in the morning, taking with me 0.5 liters of the process accelerator.

Half an hour later the phone rang, asking why you didn’t come and pick it up. He picked it up, exchanged pleasantries, he suggested coming back more often, and we parted ways.

Let's start assembling the sharpening machine

The first step is to make a protective casing for the machine, because as practice shows, if you don’t do it right away, you will never do it again, and this is harmful to health.

You can make it from scraps of tin, I won’t describe the process, everyone defends themselves as best they can. I recommend fixing it with a clamp like this, it’s cheap and reliable:

The next step is to attach the attachment to the motor shaft. To do this, just press the rosin finely, pour it into the hole in the nozzle, turn on the engine and press it into the nozzle. Through friction, the rosin will melt and the shaft will be securely “stuck in the hole.” For extreme sports enthusiasts, I can advise putting a drop of “second” or “moment” glue into the hole, but then, if something happens, it will be much more difficult to remove the electric motor.

To attach the sharpener, you can use the same clamp as shown in the photo above. Moreover, it can be secured either by a clamp in a vice, or by pressing a suitable bracket to the engine with a clamp, which in turn is attached in a suitable way to the table. Well, that’s all, we put an abrasive wheel on the nozzle,

tighten the nut and sharpen whatever your heart desires. A leather gasket is needed to increase friction and reduce the degree of pressure on the disc (thin ones can burst).

With this device I use ground cutting wheels from a grinder, homemade vulcanite circles made from circles of larger diameter, small cutters. The photo shows a full arsenal of sharpening equipment. If desired, the engine can be mounted under the table, thus obtaining a miniature circular saw or grinding machine. But this may require other attachments.

Electric grinders, or, as people say, emery stones, are collected in a great variety from everything that falls to hand; they are often made from motors from washing machines.

I also decided to make myself a homemade machine for sharpening drills, knives, etc. I have a Chinese sharpener, but its quality 😥 well, you understand...

Making such a machine turned out to be one of the easiest things to do :)

Because:

• I had an extra engine with 1370 rpm and 370 watts.
• I didn’t order an attachment for placing a grindstone on the shaft from a turner, such attachments are sold on our market - just know the diameter of the motor shaft and you can purchase the attachment for only 250 rubles + 200 rubles. for the whetstone.

Making a sharpening machine with your own hands step 1

I installed an electrical box on the engine, placed a capacitor in it to start the engine, a toggle switch - a switch and a power supply for the lamp.

I used a toggle switch from a Soviet tube TV - it turns out to be a reliable thing; first I installed a modern, beautiful Chinese toggle switch - when using it, the machine “stuttered” (worked with some jerks), and replacing the toggle switch with another of the same brand did not help until I installed a Soviet toggle switch.

Out of curiosity, I later installed these Chinese toggle switches on another engine, which also began to “stutter”, it’s a shame, I paid 100 rubles for 2 toggle switches. - I just threw money away...

Well, with the capacitor - everything is standard, I won’t describe 101 times how to connect a three-phase motor to 220V - it’s easy to find on Google, or in our article on.

Backlight for sharpening machine step 2

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For illumination I used an unnecessary LED table lamp from IKEA, bought for home, but was not useful anywhere, the lamp is powered from the mains through an adapter, which I ripped out and hid its board in a box on the motor.

Tool rest for lathe step 3

To attach the tool rest, I used a furniture corner sharpened at the desired angle, then I attached a piece of 32x32 corner to it, in which I sawed a groove and installed a tool rest on it from a piece of 4 mm steel. The tool rest is fastened with a countersunk screw; thanks to the groove in the corner under the tool rest, the tool rest can be moved closer or further from the grindstone. The corner is also attached to the casing with a screw, which allows you to adjust the angle of the tool rest relative to the whetstone.

I made a corner for fastening from a furniture hanger protective glass, for this I used a piece of plexiglass 6 mm thick.

Whetstone used 200x20 mm gray- I like these ones better for their stiffness, the white ones crumble a lot. I know about marking stones, but I don’t do professional steel processing to spend a long time selecting a stone according to its parameters.

When installing the stone, I placed two cardboard washers, as required, so that when tightening the nuts, the whetstone would not burst.

About the safety of a homemade sharpening machine

We read the theory - we know...

The casing of my emery machine is not closed on one side - for safety reasons this is not possible, the casing should cover the stone as much as possible, but I decided for myself that sometimes it is convenient for me to sharpen something on the side of the stone, although this is not recommended. And in general, I usually finish my machines gradually, I think in the future, when I want, I will still make a cover for the casing so that it covers the sharpening stone on all sides.

But my machine also has safety advantages:

• the protective glass on Chinese machines is much thinner than I used;
• The machine speed is 1380 rpm, although the whetstone is designed for 3000 rpm. per minute This means my stone will have a very small chance of breaking.

What did I get

• I received an excellent homemade machine for sharpening drills, knives and other tools, the machine has enough power even for sharpening axes - tested;
• The machine speed is low, the sandpaper sharpens better at 3000 revolutions, but mine works quietly and persistently, I would say :)

Recommendation for choosing a motor for a homemade grinding machine

The engine is taken depending on your needs, if you are going to use it to sharpen only awls, small knives, etc., then an engine from washing machine from the USSR. Such engines usually have 1380 rpm. per minute and 180-250 watts of power. Now there are engines from modern automatic washing machines, but they are more difficult to connect - you need a special board, but you can regulate the speed on them.

For more confident work, it is better to take a 400W engine and 1380-3000 rpm. Such a sharpener will be a good help in the workshop.

But if you want to work with large parts, sharpen crowbars, for example :), then you need to use a motor of about 750 W or more and 3000 rpm.

Photo of self-made emery:

Knives and scissors should always be in working order in the house, and at the dacha the need for sharp tools is even greater: shovels, hoes, scythes, etc. Sharpening everything by hand is tedious and unproductive. Must have at your disposal grinder. But this is far from cheap tool and therefore it’s worth trying to make a sharpening machine with your own hands.

The design of household sharpeners is subject to the following rules.

1. The main parts of the sharpening machine are the bed and the electric motor mounted on it.
2. Limbs are attached to the end of the motor shaft, and sharpening and grinding wheels are mounted on it. On the sides, in front of the grinding and grinding wheels There are columns with guides for adjusting the horizontal feed of the tool being processed. The longitudinal feed of the sharpened part is performed manually: the part moves in the desired direction.
3. Grinding and grinding wheels must be equipped with protective covers.
4. A two-button switch is installed on the body.
5. The weight of the frame must be such as to ensure the stability of the sharpener.
6. To reduce noise and vibration, the frame is equipped with rubber feet.

To make a sharpening machine, you can use a regular electric drill .

Sharpening machine functions

For household use needed sharpening machine universal type. Unlike a special one, this type of sharpener can be used to process most household tools. An electric sharpener is used to solve the following problems.

1. When drilling thick metal, the drill often overheats and breaks. It is impossible to continue working with such a device, but it is still too early to dispose of it. At correct sharpening The drill will last a long time.
2. To sharpen scissors, knives and other tools, you need a tabletop sharpening machine. This design is optimal for domestic use.
3. For grinding metal surfaces using a felt circle.
4. A cam chuck can be installed on the other side of the shaft to fix drills, and in this case the sharpening machine will also be used as a drilling machine.

Criteria for selecting sharpening machine parameters

When choosing components for designing a sharpening machine, it is necessary to take into account the following technical indicators of the device:

• power: it should allow processing massive parts and tools (for example, an ax) without significantly reducing the rotation speed of the electric motor shaft;
• diameter of the mounting hole: it is taken into account for the manufacture of equipment;
• grinding diameter and grinding wheel– selected depending on the size of the parts being processed;
• rotation speed: it should not exceed 3000 rpm (it is better to limit it to 1500 rpm);
• the ability to adjust the rotation speed - a convenient function necessary for processing various parts;
• weight – matters when it is necessary to move the sharpener.

How to make a sharpening machine

In order to assemble a homemade sharpening machine, you need to purchase an electric motor with a power of about 1 kW (this will be enough), as well as a shaft, bearings and two pulleys.

Helpful tip: you can use a unit from an old washing machine as a motor for the sharpener.

Choosing an electric motor

You need to remove the engine from an old washing machine of the “Vyatka”, “Riga”, “Sibir” brands. A starter and switch will also come in handy. There may be a problem with attaching the grindstone: the motor shaft does not have a thread and does not have the same diameter as the hole in the grindstone. The problem can be solved using a custom adapter part. The motor from the “washing machine” is low-power: within 100 – 200 W, but this will be enough.

Rotation speed 2700 rpm. and the indicated power are the optimal parameters for a grinding wheel with a diameter of 150 mm. Increasing the rotation speed will lead to the destruction of the stone.

Grinding the flange

The solution to this problem is carried out in stages.

Important: the direction of thread cutting depends on the direction of rotation of the motor shaft. If the shaft rotates clockwise, a left-hand thread is required, if in the other direction, a right-hand thread is required. Otherwise, the nut will unwind and the stone will not stay on the shaft.

Determining the direction of rotation

The direction of rotation of the electric motor rotor is not always satisfactory. To change it, in asynchronous motor windings need to be switched. To do this, do the following.

Assembling the sharpening machine

The final assembly of the sharpening machine consists of the following steps.

1. From steel angles using welding machine the frame is being manufactured.
2. An electric motor with pulleys is screwed to the frame with screws and nuts. To prevent the nuts from loosening under the influence of vibration, engravers or additional nuts are used.
3. A bar is made from the angle and installed to regulate the inclination of the part to be sharpened.
4. From sheet metal a protective casing is manufactured and attached. Its thickness should be 2-2.5 mm.
5. A curtain is cut out of plexiglass, which is attached to the top of the cutout in protective casing in a mounted way.
6. The starter button is attached to the frame. Network cable must be kept away from moving parts of the machine.
7. After assembly it is executed trial run and checking the work of the sharpener. In this case, there should be no strong beating of the sharpening stone or vibration of the bed.

Important: it is necessary to maintain a safe distance between the grinding wheel and the workbench plate (minimum 10 mm).

In conclusion, we suggest you watch the video in which the designer will introduce you to another design of a sharpening machine.

The service life of any knife directly depends on the methods of its operation and the procedure for sharpening the blade. Devices for sharpening knives are so diverse that they allow to modern man do not resort to the work of specialists, but do all the work yourself at home. To sharpen knives you can use: special device industrial production, as well as any device manufactured with my own hands. It is important to know that simple elements for sharpening knives (for example, a whetstone), which are at hand, can do a bad job and the sharpness of the product will not only not return, but gradually the product will completely become unusable. Moreover, any homemade device for sharpening knives can be based on the use of these simple sharpening devices. Detailed information How to make a sharpening device with your own hands can be found below.

A homemade manual machine for sharpening knives, provided that all the requirements for its creation are met, will simplify the sharpening of knives and its performance will be no worse than that of a professional. Correct sharpening includes the following rule: each type of cutting product has a certain edge sharpening angle, which must be constant along the entire length of the blade (see table No. 1). A sharpening device that will initially be based on this principle will give the craftsman a sharp knife edge for a long time.

Table No. 1. Sharpening angle in parallel with the type of cutting device

When sharpening the edges should be processed evenly. To fulfill this condition, the following rules must be observed:

• the blade must be fixed in the vice of the device reliably and efficiently, without exposing the metal of the blade to damage;
• the movement of the whetstone along the axis of the knife edge must be uniform and strictly at a certain angle;
• the point of contact of the blade must be strictly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the sharpening device;
• the pressure on the knife blade should change smoothly depending on the change in the area of ​​contact between the blade and the sharpener.

A simple device for sharpening knives

The simplest device for sharpening knives is based on the use of an angular frame and a whetstone. The price of such a primitive factory-made device is quite high, as is the price of replaceable whetstones, but making such a device for sharpening knives at home will not be difficult for a craftsman. You will need the following equipment:

1. Wooden blocks same size- 4 things.
2. Drill (or any other drilling tool).
3. Bolts and nuts (about 4 pieces each).
4. Touchstone.
5. Protractor.

First you need to make a pair wooden corners, placing the bars to each other strictly at an angle of 90º (Fig. 1). Close the resulting wooden corners together parallel to each other as a single whole and drill holes through the diameter of the bolts. Insert bolts into the holes and tighten the corners slightly with nuts.

The point of this invention is that it is possible to sharpen simply by holding the knife vertically in relation to the sharpening surface located at a given angle.

The most important thing is to properly secure the touchstone between wooden corners devices. To do this, using a protractor, you need to set desired angle tilt the whetstone and tighten the bolts tightly to clearly fix the position of the whetstone.

With some modification of the device, you can also fix the position of the knife relative to the sharpening stone. A significant disadvantage of such a machine for manual sharpening it is impossible to smoothly adjust the angle of inclination of the sharpening stone.

Device for sharpening from mounting angles

Scheme and drawings homemade sharpener for knives from mounting angles, based on the Lansky device, are clearly shown below.

To assemble this device you will need:

1. Metal corners 90*90 mm with a wall thickness of 6 mm.
2. Stud with M6 thread and length 160 mm.
3. Thin rod (electrode, knitting needle, etc.).
4. Touchstone.
5. 2 rectangular pieces of metal (sponges for clamping the whetstone).
6. Pliers.
7. Hacksaw for metal.
8. File (or any other tool for processing sharp corners).
9. Set of hardware (nuts and bolts).

In both metal jaws, intended for fixing the keystone, you need to drill for a connecting bolt. Fix the touchstone. A thin smooth knitting needle, previously bent at an angle of 90º, must be inserted and secured in the hole of one of the jaws. In the future, using this knitting needle-shaped clamp, a certain angle of inclination of the touchstone will be set. Such a device for sharpening knives is characterized by a wide range of sharpening angles, which will undoubtedly be of interest to most craftsmen.

Locking blade machines

Knife sharpening machines with locking blades will attract the attention of those people who want to sharpen a knife not only efficiently, but also quickly. A design that rigidly fixes the knife blade relative to the moving one. set angle sharpening stone, allows you to accurately set the angle of inclination.

To create something like this homemade machine with your own hands you will need:

1. The base is a rectangular wooden plate with dimensions 440*92 mm and a thickness of 18 mm.
2. Wooden die 92*45*45 mm (for fixing the vertical threaded rod).
3. A wooden block 245*92 mm and 18 mm thick (the plate to which the knife will be attached).
4. Iron plate 200*65 mm and metal thickness 4 mm.
5. Piano hinge, 92 mm long.
6. M8 hairpin 325 mm long.
7. Nuts and bolts with M8 thread.
8. Drill 6.5 mm.
9. M8 tap.
10. Self-tapping screws 50 mm, 4 pcs.

The die intended for fixing the vertical threaded rod must be drilled through with a 6.5 mm drill. The hole should be located at a distance of 15 mm from the edge of the die, approximately in the center.

Next, in the resulting hole you need to cut a thread for an M8 stud. The wooden block prepared in this way must be screwed to the base at a distance of 265 mm from the edge using ordinary self-tapping screws 50 mm long, screwed in with reverse side grounds.

After securing the wooden part of the holding device, you can begin to attach the iron plate. In the center of the 200*65 mm plate, you need to drill an oblong groove, 90 mm long and about 1 cm wide. The groove should be located from the edge of the clamping plate at a distance of 60 mm. Additionally, you need to drill a hole at a distance of 20 mm from the opposite edge and cut a thread in it for an M8 bolt. Then you need to attach the clamping plate to the previously prepared wooden base. Using another bolt and a suitable washer, you need to fix the clamping plate in the center of the cut groove. The fixation should be clear, but at the same time neat, so as not to damage the surface of the blade.

The most the hard part Assembling this device consists of preparing a control device that will set the sharpening angle of the knife. For this you will need:

• metal square profile 40×40 mm;
• furniture bracket, 40 mm wide;
• a pair of rivets;
• a piece of plywood 42×25 and 18 mm thick;
• bolt and nut M5;
• a pair of M8 wing nuts;
• whetstone;
• steel bar with a diameter of 0.8 cm and a length of 40 cm.

You need to drill a couple of holes on a piece of plywood: through hole with a diameter of 8 mm with a cross-section of 42×18 mm (set the distance from the edge along the 42 mm side to 15 mm) and a through hole with a diameter of 5 mm along the side with a cross-section of 42×25 mm (the distance from the edge is 10 mm). Square pipe should be cut in half so that you get a “U”-shaped bracket with a width of 40 * 15 mm and ears of 20 mm. You need to drill 8 mm holes in the ears, into which an M8 pin will later be inserted. Connect the resulting bracket with furniture hinge using rivets. Using the second part of the furniture bracket, attach a block of plywood to the resulting structure with an M5 bolt.

Connect the touchstone to a guide rod, which is a steel rod with a cross-section of 8 mm. When connecting the keystone and the guide rod, you should strictly ensure that their center lines coincide. If desired, for ease of use of the sharpener, a handle-holder can be attached to the whetstone on the reverse side. All that remains is to secure the whetstone in the guide mechanism, secure it with a thumb and the homemade device for sharpening knives is ready.

Machines with fixed sharpening surfaces

Machines with fixed pointed surfaces are simple modification devices for processing household knives. In such a device there is no possibility of adjusting the sharpening angle; however, several different angles for sharpening can be set in advance different types knives. The work of sharpening blades using such machines is not difficult; you just need to move the blade along the abrasive surfaces in the recess.

The device consists of a pair of planes inclined to each other at a certain angle, one of which is a grindstone.

Electric knife sharpeners

The procedure for creating an electric sharpening machine is simple: it is enough to equip almost any device for sharpening knives and scissors with an electric drive. Such a sharpening machine allows you to quickly and efficiently sharpen the product and at the same time provides a better concave shelf at the edge of the blade.

The mechanism of an electric sharpener for sharpening knives contains a guide, which is located along the axis of rotation of the sharpening stone, and with the help of which the blade is adjusted at a given angle. The sharpening angle is set and set by the guide, and the clamping force is determined by the master.

Particular attention must be paid to the speed of sharpening, because... The electric drive allows you to sharpen the product at high speed, as a result of which the surface of the knife heats up. Such surface heating leads to tempering of the hardened steel, as a result of which the knife can quickly lose its hardness and its service life will be noticeably reduced. To prevent tempering of the steel, sharpening should be done on a high-speed electric sharpener in short periods of time and with sufficient breaks to allow the knife to cool.

Making sharpening stones

It will not be difficult for a modern craftsman to make sharpening stones with his own hands. For this you will need:

• a wooden die to the size of the future sharpener;
• epoxy resin;
• cardboard boxes according to the size of the block;
• abrasive;
• protective rubber gloves.

You can use ready-made powder as an abrasive, or you can prepare an abrasive own production, for example, from an old block Green colour still of Soviet production. Such a block can be ground into powder and used in the future as an abrasive.

The wooden die needs to be treated on one side with sandpaper and frequent cuts must be made with a saw. Mix epoxy resin with abrasive chips. Having previously placed the block in a cardboard box glued to the size of the block, cover the prepared surface of the wooden block with the mixture epoxy resin and abrasive. Once the resin has completely cured, the block is ready for use.

Another option for making your own sharpening stones is to create a sharpening stone from small rectangular glass plates about 5 mm thick. Using double-sided adhesive tape, sandpaper is glued to the surface of the glass plate. The sharpening stone is ready for use.

Device for sharpening from wooden blocks

A simple device for sharpening knives is a tool consisting of a pair wooden slats and pairs of bars with abrasive, with the same geometric dimensions.

Wooden slats should be thoroughly sanded with abrasive sandpaper. Then, after applying auxiliary markup, depending on the sharpening angle of the knife, make cuts to a depth of 15 mm. Insert sanding blocks into the resulting holes so that each groove matches, then secure them with bolts. To give the sharpening device greater stability, the lower part of the surface can be padded with a piece of rubber.

Types of sharpening devices cutting tool are different and each master will be able to choose the one manual machine, which will fully satisfy his needs.