The tiny white worms that eat tunnels in the roots of radishes, turnips and other cruciferous crops are cabbage fly larvae. This insect looks like an ordinary house fly, only half its size. The larvae reach approximately 0.8 centimeters before developing into adults. Once they have settled in the garden bed, it will be extremely difficult to drive them away. So it’s better to prevent this pest from entering the garden initially than to risk losing part of the radish harvest later.
Adult cabbage flies are attracted to moist soil that is rich in organic matter such as manure or humus. Female pests lay eggs in the ground near radish seedlings, from which larvae soon hatch. They feed on the juicy pulp of root vegetables for three to five weeks, after which they turn into pupae. As a rule, after two to three weeks, adult flies emerge from them, but pupae can also remain in the soil all winter, only to wake up in the spring and repeat the same cycle again.
To prevent the appearance of worms in radishes, the following conditions must be observed:
- grow radishes every year in a new place;
- Fertilize the soil in the garden bed with this crop only with three-year compost;
- regularly remove plant tops, weeds and other organic matter from the site;
- periodically sprinkle radish seedlings with quicklime or wood ash;
- dust the soil around the plants (at a distance of 4-5 centimeters from them) with a mixture of naphthalene and ash (1:5) or tobacco dust mixed with an equal amount of garden soil or sand;
- dig up the soil on the site in the fall with 1-1.5 shovels;
- keep the bed under a light non-fabric for the entire period that the radish plants are in the bed - this way you will effectively limit the fly’s access to the soil where it lays its eggs;
- Place yellow basins with soapy or oily water near the garden bed. It is believed that cabbage flies are attracted to yellow- they fly towards him, fall into a water trap and drown.
Another super effective way To prevent spoilage of radishes, obnoxious worms are. Let's look at some of the most interesting options.
- Garlic + radish. Garlic is planted four to six weeks before the expected onset of the first serious frost or two to three weeks before sowing radish seeds. The teeth are placed at a distance of 10 - 15 centimeters from one another with row spacing of 60 centimeters. Radishes are sown in grooves made in the center of the garlic rows.
- Mint, rosemary, sage + radish. These perennial herbs can be planted in a bed reserved for the cultivation of radishes several weeks before sowing. In this case, mint bushes need to be dug into the spaces between the rows directly in pots (about 25 centimeters high), having previously cut off their bottom - this will prevent further unwanted spread of mint throughout the area. In general, the above plants have repellent properties and force the fly to stay away from the radish bed.
- Marigolds + radishes. Many insects also do not like the smell of these unpretentious flowers. In the southern regions they are grown as a perennial crop, but to the north the plants freeze out in the winter. Marigold seeds are sown in the spring in a bed with radishes a few weeks before sowing. The width of the rows in this case depends on what variety of marigolds you purchased - some varieties grow only up to 15-30 centimeters, while others can grow up to 90 centimeters in height.
But if, nevertheless, your radish is attacked by worms and most of it turns out to be spoiled, immediately remove the damaged plants from the garden bed and burn them. Avoid putting their tops in compost, since cabbage fly pupae overwinter quite successfully in it and return to the site again the next year.
Kivsyaki, as you know, live in places where moisture remains for a long time. Therefore, do not delay in destroying weeds and cleaning up plant debris in your summer cottage.
Also make sure that everything on your site is in its place. It is necessary to maintain order, because these worms can live under unattended things.
Don't forget to take the time to loosen the top layer of soil. Thanks to this procedure, its moisture content will be significantly reduced, therefore, the likelihood that noids will harm the strawberries will decrease.
Isolating the leaves from the soil surface will also help protect strawberries from borers. To do this, you can lay straw or, for example, shavings on the ground.
If you collect the nooses by hand, this will also help preserve the strawberry harvest. These worms are nocturnal, so they should be collected at certain times: late evening and early morning. During the day they can only be seen in cloudy weather.
Before the strawberries bear fruit, distract the nods from them using bait. To do this, cut potatoes or carrots into medium-sized pieces and place them throughout summer cottage. Remember to check the baits daily and replace them with new ones.
To avoid the appearance of strawberries, you should water the berries correctly - the soil under the bushes should not be waterlogged when the strawberries are ripening.
Harvest ripe berries immediately. If you see affected strawberry fruits all over the place, remove them immediately and throw them away.
All chemical substances, which are commercially available, unfortunately, will not help in the fight against this pest, and all because during spraying, the nooses are deep in the ground and the poison does not reach them.
How to understand that there is a nematode on strawberries
The nematode lives in the axils of leaves and in the buds of strawberry bushes; during one growing season, up to 8 generations of worms are replaced on the plant. Several types of nematodes can live on strawberries: the most dangerous are leaf and bud nematodes, as well as root-knot nematodes. They are transmitted from planting material, seeds, berries, plant residues. The danger of nematodes is that they weaken plants, affecting their buds, inflorescences and roots, as a result of which the plant becomes dwarf and its productivity decreases.
Plants affected by the nematode are modified: the leaf blades become smaller, become ugly, and irregular in shape. The leaves curl, wrinkle, and become covered with brown or yellow spots. Another sign of plant damage by nematodes is a change appearance shoots, they often shorten, thicken, and they fuse with each other. Peduncles become smaller, often become underdeveloped, take on an irregular shape, the berries grow small or there are none at all.
Prevention of plant infection by nematodes
The increase in nematode numbers occurs in the spring-summer period and continues until the end of July, after which there is a temporary decline in the activity of the worms. There are several basic rules to avoid infesting your garden with nematodes:
To do this, you need to observe crop rotation, but you cannot plant strawberries after onions, potatoes, peas, beets and garlic - all of them are also easily affected by these pests.
In the area where diseased plants grew, strawberries and strawberries cannot be planted for two years - that is how long the nematode remains in the soil.
You should not buy strawberry seedlings from random sellers at the market. It is better to purchase it in specialized nurseries.
If plants infected with nematodes are found on the site, you need to immediately dig them up and burn them outside the garden area.
Treatment methods
You can use the heat treatment method. To do this, you need to dig up the plant, wash the roots from soil residues and immerse them together with the leaves in a container with hot water(+50-55oC). You need to keep the plants in this state for 10-15 minutes. This method is quite effective when planting seedlings in beds to prevent the spread of the disease.
Planting in a bed with strawberries gives good results.
When the house is tidy and the kitchen sparkles with cleanliness, this is always a clear sign that the house has clean owners. Beautiful interior decoration And original design only emphasize the status of the inhabitants of the house, but quite often against this rosy background situations arise that literally turn everything upside down. Uninvited guests appeared in the sparkling kitchen, in a room that had recently been renovated. The appearance of pests on own kitchen, can come as a shock to any housewife. Little worms on the beautiful new ceiling, in the kitchen, where?
However, today situations continue to arise when we again have to deal with household pests. Who hasn’t had to deal with the fact that small worms appear out of nowhere in the kitchen? The most unpleasant thing in this case is that we do not know where this scourge came from and who these insects are.
The worms on the ceiling in the kitchen are aliens who came into our house from outside not of our will. Man's fault lies in the fact that we have artificially created ideal conditions in our kitchen for the habitat and reproduction of insects. The problem is so serious that any delay in making a decision threatens to become a disaster for you. In just a day or two, following one worm on the ceiling, you will encounter a huge mass of moving larvae.
Worms on the kitchen ceiling - a biological portrait of pests
For reference: ideal climatic conditions for reproduction food moth is a temperature above 23 0 C, with a humidity of 45-50%. Warm air, the abundance of food becomes an ideal environment for the rapid maturation of laid eggs.
The masonry is mainly done on the shelves and in the cabinets of our kitchen, where porridge, cereals and dry semi-finished products are stored in abundance. After a week or two, worms hatch from the eggs. white, which absorb all edible bulk and dry products on a huge scale.
On a note: during its growth, a colony of larvae of 500 individuals can render up to 100 kg unusable. products.
The waste products of the larvae render any cereal or porridge unusable, making it unfit for consumption.
If you notice flying moths in the house, especially in the kitchen, sound the alarm. Otherwise, time will be wasted and in just a couple of weeks you will have white worms on the ceiling in your kitchen as an unpleasant discovery.
Are food moths dangerous and where do they come from?
White worms on your kitchen ceiling in the kitchen - this is already a consequence. The problem arose from the moment food moths entered our home. This is where the biggest surprise lies. We never know what draws us into the house. In the case of food moths, the situation generally looks paradoxical. It's all due to poor quality food. The moth itself cannot get into the apartment, but bringing it into the house is quite possible. Without knowing it, we buy already contaminated food products in a store or market. Porridge, flour and other bulk semi-finished products must be tested. fumigation during storage. Unscrupulous suppliers and manufacturers often neglect storage technology, packaging products already infested with insects and putting them up for sale.
Note: food moth larvae are omnivorous and very voracious. Gnawing through plastic bags, the larvae quickly spread throughout the kitchen space in search of food. Dead caterpillars, feces and remains of pupae make our habitable kitchen space unsightly and dirty. Food products must be disposed of immediately.
What is the way out of this situation? Pest control methods
There are quite a lot of means to combat household pests today. Eat folk remedies fight against food moths, and there is modern techniques, built on integrated approach in order to achieve results.
The first step that will allow you to avoid an unpleasant situation is prevention. All food products that are subject to long-term storage needs to be removed from the kitchen. The pantry or balcony will become best place for storing bulk products. Cold air will become an obstacle to the reproduction of larvae. If you suspect that the products are already contaminated, all cereals, cereals and even pasta must undergo heat treatment. To do this, it will be enough to heat the food in the oven.
You should not rely entirely on folk remedies. In some cases, food moths easily overcome obstacles and quickly spread indoors, contaminating food.
Worms appeared on the ceiling. Pest control methods
On a note: laundry soap and vinegar are the first remedies that you should pay attention to, which are dangerous for food moths, and especially for their offspring.
As aid currently used effective traps, capable of disorienting adult individuals and preventing subsequent reproduction of pests.
Eventually
The situation with worms on the ceiling is unpleasant, but not dangerous to humans. First of all, the aesthetics of your premises suffer, and personal feelings from the presence of worms are unpleasant. You will have to throw away your entire food supply and replenish it again. Once, having encountered a similar problem and eliminated the pests, you will already know in the future how to avoid such troubles.
Your ceiling will look cleaner and more attractive if you periodically wet cleaning in the kitchen, including wiping the walls and ceiling.
The main point of the article
| 1. White worms are food moth larvae that spread quickly from a short breeding cycle (from egg to larva in 1-2 weeks). 2. Lives in cabinets and on shelves where cereals and cereals are stored, damaging food products with its waste products. Appears in the apartment along with low-quality food products. |
Gardeners can often see worm-like pests eating strawberries. In fact, these are not worms, not wireworms and not caterpillars, but moths. This is the common name for millipedes, which have two pairs of legs on each body segment (except for the four front and rear). They are distributed almost everywhere. Their body length varies from 3 mm to 28 cm (in tropical species). They live in the soil, adhering to layers with a moderate level of moisture. Almost everyone feeds on diseased, damaged, dead or rotting parts of plants in upper layers soil, as well as fallen fruits and berries lying on the ground. But with a severe lack of moisture in the soil or mass reproduction (every 3-4 years), they can feed on green, succulent plant tissues and cause serious damage, since they can eat 1.5 times their weight in a day. When disturbed, they first curl up into a spiral, shaped like a snail shell. If you continue to disturb them, they begin to sharply bend the ends of their bodies in opposite directions, “convulsing.”
In our country berries ( garden strawberries) most often damages the spotted or speckled grasshopper (Blanius guttulatus). Depending on the phase of development and age of an adult nod, the color of its body varies: light brown, spotted, even black. The nodule is speckled towards the end of its life, but it lives for several years, reaching 5 cm in length or even more. It is active in the dark, hiding in shelters during the day, but on cloudy days, in shaded places and in wet weather it comes to the surface during the day. Reproduction occurs at a temperature of +22...+28 °C and 85% humidity. In the soil, from a mixture of soil and excrement, the female builds a dome-shaped nest, where she lays up to 70 eggs. Sometimes eggs are laid in clusters in the ground, under stones and other objects on the soil surface. After 2 - 4 weeks, larvae emerge from them - smaller copies of adult larvae. Their full development can take up to 3 years. The larvae molt periodically; after each molt, their body increases by one segment. In dry weather, nooks climb under tiles, boards, piles of garbage, tops, creeping grass and other objects under which moisture remains longer than in an open area. When the top layer of soil dries out, they go into the ground. Both larvae and adults overwinter in the soil.
Signs of plant damage and damage
Signs of damage are not specific. Kivsyaki gnaw holes of varying depths in the berries. But often inside the hole you can find a larva of a noose or even several larvae intertwined in a ball.
Damaged berries acquire bad smell, they cannot be used for food. In cold and wet spring, nodule can damage root system And underground part stems of many crops, gnawing small cavities in them. The affected areas turn brown or black. Plant development slows down, and if severely damaged, they dry out and die. In cases where woodlice and two-tailed woodlice are present in the soil, the damage cultivated plants happens to be the most serious.
Risk group
Root vegetables in the Kivsyak diet include: , . And also (carrion), overripe, and strawberries or those touching the soil. Germinating seeds, tomatoes, melons, stems and roots of any seedlings. Kivsyaki also eat cucumbers, leaves, champignons (and others) lying on the ground, as well as decorative potted crops in closed ground.
How to deal with worms on strawberries
- Deep plowing in the morning frost in late autumn (nose grasses are heat-loving and die at low temperatures).
- and timely removal of plant residues.
- Putting things in order: there should be no scraps of boards, slabs, pieces of slate, etc. lying unattended on the ground.
- to reduce the moisture content of the surface layer.
- In spring, you can isolate young strawberry leaves from the soil surface with a layer of straw or shavings (mulch). You can also isolate the berries using supports for the flower stalks.
- Manual collection of adult nooses and their larvae late in the evening, early in the morning and on cloudy days.
- Before the strawberries ripen, you should start using pieces of potatoes or carrots as bait, spread throughout the area with timely periodic collection and destruction of the nooses.
- During the ripening period, the soil under the strawberry bushes should not be over-moistened.
- When detected, affected berries must be removed immediately.
- It is important to harvest the berries promptly and completely.
Attention! When touched, moths often secrete a pungent secretion, which has a specific odor and colors the hands red or brownish-purple. Sometimes this secretion causes an allergic reaction, so it is recommended to use gloves.
Using Traps
Construction of artificial shelters from available materials: pieces of boards or old roofing felt, wet rags and so on. under which nods gather, followed by inspection of shelters and destruction of pests under them.
You can also use food bait - spread pieces of carrots, potatoes, apples around the area, followed by collecting and destroying the noose.
You can dig trapping grooves up to 10 cm deep and up to 6 - 7 cm wide, at the bottom of which mayonnaise jars are dug at a distance of 2 - 3 m. When crawling along the surface, the nooses fall into the groove, crawl along the bottom and end up in the jars.
In the fall, you can dig holes measuring 30 x 30 cm and a depth of 30 - 40 cm, put leaves, slices of potatoes, carrots and vegetable waste, sprinkle with a layer of earth 5 - 10 cm. Mark the holes with branches so that they can be easily found. With the onset of frost, take out the contents of the pits and burn them together with the nozzles on a fire, or simply scatter them around the area - all the pests gathered for the winter will die.
Repelling nodule with superphosphate, soap-kerosene emulsion, as well as using molluscicides against them ( Thunderstorm, Slug Eater) is ineffective, since the surface of the nodule's body is protected by a thick layer of chitin. These products can cause minor harm only to recently molted larvae, whose chitinous layer has not yet reached the required size.
Measures to actively combat kiwis
At the moment, the list of pesticides and agrochemicals approved for use in the Russian Federation does not contain recommended preparations for protecting plants from grasshoppers. This is explained by the fact that the areas are treated with pesticides during daylight hours, when a significant part of the nooses are located in shelters and are not treated. Even the introduction of drugs aimed at destroying root pests of plants (,) does not give a noticeable result in the fight against nodule.
