Shoe rack drawing. Shoe cabinet in the hallway with folding shelves. Organizer made of fabric or cardboard

Here, I’m sharing my impressions of making a folding shoe rack for the hallway. I purchased the accessories for 50 rubles. per set. But I had to tinker with the rest... I'll tell you the story of its creation.

The mechanism of folding shoe racks is new to me, so I immediately went on the Internet to look for additive diagrams (looking ahead, I will say that I still found a normal additive, but this was after the product was manufactured, and therefore this will be covered in a separate article). We weren't able to dig up anything particularly meaningful. First I found this diagram. And I was happy...

But I still had a problem with the calculations, so the search continued and I found this file" " . Here I completely relaxed and, rubbing my hands, did not compare both of these schemes. I stupidly took the dimensions, put together a project based on them, adjusted the dimensions to the required room and sent them to cutting. As practice has shown, I got excited.

I’ll immediately make a reservation that in the posted project, as well as in the detailing, the dimensions have already been corrected.

Project details attached

Part name Length Edge Width Edge Qty
Retractable facade 16 mm 156 = = 464 = = 1
Folding facade 16 mm 371 = = 464 = = 2
16 mm post 940 - - 292 2
drawer front/back 16 mm 98 410 - - 2
drawer side 16 mm 98 250 - - 2
Tsarga 16 mm 468 = = 120 1
Horizons 16 mm 500 - - 292 = = 2
Detail under the fronts 16 mm 468 - - 23 1
shoe rack 10 mm 453 = = 86 2
shoe rack 10 mm 453 = = 136 4
Drawer bottom fiberboard 442 250 1
fiberboard back wall 484 956 1

The edge used is 0.4 mm. If you change by 2 mm, you will definitely need to narrow the facades.
The back wall is made “In the groove”, if you are going to make an invoice, you need to expand it in each direction by 16 mm.

So, the parts are sawed and piled up. We select the racks from them and begin the additive. The most important point. There is no way to make a mistake here, because closing 20 mm holes later will be problematic. We start marking from the lower front corner of the rack. According to the filler pattern, I marked the hole for the axle.

23 mm is a part under the facade so that the mechanism does not rest against the bottom. 7 mm - gap. Another 7 mm is an empirical value that is on the diagram, but its size is not labeled. I took 2 mm from the diagram, 44 was obtained by adding 28 mm from the diagram to the thickness of the facade of 16 mm.

In the resulting location, I drilled a 20 mm blind hole with a depth of 10-12 mm.

We press a plastic insert element into this hole.

We mark the border of the facade, set aside 7 mm from it and repeat the manipulations with both posts.

Please note that both posts have a groove selected for back wall Fiberboard.

We mark the guides for drawer. For example, on the side wall of the box I set aside 40 mm from the bottom, which means on the stand of the box I set aside 50 mm from the bottom border of the drawer front. 55 mm on this line is 37 mm (fixed size for ball guide + inset front thickness 16 mm).

We fit and install the remaining holes and fittings. The horizons are attached to the posts from below with confirmats, and from above - with minifixes.

After this, we begin assembling the box: we attach the lower horizon, put the back wall in the groove, and install the upper horizon. We mount the under-facade part (I simply screwed it in with three screws from the bottom so that nothing would split and there would be no confirmation plugs on the sides).

After this, we move on to assembling the folding elements themselves. The planks are attached with self-tapping screws at the end (it is advisable to first drill holes for them so as not to split anything).. First, I assembled the baskets and decided to screw the facades to them, but that was not the case - it was impossible to get to the mounting holes, I had to partially disassemble and attach the facade and collect again.

I would advise you to start with the facades. Mark the mounting holes. I didn’t have a diagram for them, so I had to use the good old “Scientific Poke” method. The values ​​turned out to be as follows. By the way, they are not far from the truth (see the article about the correct additive - will come a little later)

We place the mechanism on the facade and fix it with six self-tapping screws.
All that remains is to put the shoe racks in place and screw on the handle and the shelf can be mounted in the box.

To install it in the box, we simply insert the assembled mechanism inside, position it opposite the previously drilled 20 mm holes, insert the axles into them and hammer them in with a hammer. Immediately drill with an 8 mm drill and install a stop pin. To do this, you need to retreat 172 mm from the axis, and 34 mm from the edge of the rack.

Our bedside table is gradually starting to take on a finished look.

We perform exactly the same manipulations with the second shoe rack. Then we move on to assembling the drawer. This process has already been discussed many times and we will not dwell on it.

All that remains is to put it in the designated niche. Screw the handle to the facade and set it to " ".

We screw additional magnetic latches into the box and strike plates to the facade.
That's it, the work is finished. I bought a nightstand like this appearance. I would like to note a small drawback - the mismatch of the texture of the facades. To correct this, it was necessary to place them on the sheet as they should be mounted, or to make the drawing horizontal.


Finally, I’ll add that this structure is quite unstable, so it will definitely need to be attached to the wall. TO AVOID TIP.

Previously, shoes at home were stored on an open rack in the hallway. But with the appearance of a dog in the house, I had to decide the question of where to hide the shoes and how to make their storage convenient. To find out how to make a shoe cabinet with your own hands, I looked on the Internet for a lot of options for schemes and projects. I decided to make a simple shoe cabinet with a two-row shelf. The idea behind the design of the shoe rack was that no wood would be used to make it. I planned to make the entire body and shelves from MDF. Before starting work, I prepared the tools and materials necessary to assemble the shoe rack.

Tool

All the right tool I have it in my workshop. His list looks like this:

  • drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • set of scans;
  • confirmat drill with a crank;
  • tape measure, ruler;
  • construction stapler;
  • screwdriver.

Materials

Having decided on the design, I drew a general view of the shoe cabinet in the hallway. The design of this furniture is classic without any frills and allows it to harmoniously fit into the interior of the corridor. I made drawings of all the details of the cabinet with dimensions (see below). The complete list of required materials is as follows.

  1. MDF parts:
  • table top 780 x 370 16 mm – 1 pc.;
  • bottom 780 x 370 x 16 mm – 1 pc.;
  • sidewall 470 x 370 x 16 mm – 2 pcs.;
  • facade panel 780 x 430 x 16 mm – 1 pc.;
  • middle crossbar 742 x 140 x 10 mm – 1 pc.;
  • rear crossbar 742 x 135 x 10 mm – 1 pc.;
  • bottom crossbar 742 x 85 x 10 mm – 1 pc.
  1. Fiberboard sheet 812 x 470 mm – 1 pc.
  2. PVA glue – 1 tube.
  3. Staples for a stapler – 1 pack.
  4. Furniture handle – 1 pc.
  5. Screws 6 x 20 mm – 10 pcs.
  6. Plastic plugs – 8 pcs.
  7. Furniture self-adhesive legs – 4 pcs.
  8. Confirmations – 8 pcs.
  9. Wooden dowels 30 x 4 mm – 8 pcs.
  10. Lifting mechanism for shoe shelves – 1 set.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a shoe cabinet with your own hands

  1. I ordered all the details of the MDF cabinet, according to the drawings, from a furniture workshop.
  2. The rest of the materials were purchased at a hardware store. Following the instructions, I started assembling it myself folding cabinet for shoes.
  1. I inserted the middle, rear and bottom crossbars into the rotary sectors, securing them with screws.
  2. I attached the facade panel to the rotating plastic sectors with a screwdriver.
  3. In the sidewalls, using a reamer, I made one recess for fastening the housing of the rotation axis of the shoe shelves.
  4. I installed the rotary sectors, securing them in the rotary axes with plastic plugs.
  5. In the sides, at the ends of the table top and bottom, I marked with a pencil the installation points for wooden dowels. I drilled holes in these places 10 mm deep.
  6. Having smeared the holes and dowels with PVA glue, I connected the bottom to the sides.
  7. Drilled with a confirmation drill mounting holes in the sides, ends of the table top and bottom. I inserted euroscrews into them and tightened them with a wrench.
  8. I secured the back wall made of fiberboard with a stapler. The staples were driven in at intervals of 70 mm.
  9. Having placed the cabinet on the floor, I glued soft foot self-adhesives - 4 pcs.
  10. Up façade panel Drilled 2 holes. From the inside I inserted 2 screws with washers. Screwed the handle to the front of the cabinet.
  11. The confirmation sockets were covered with plastic plugs.
  12. I installed the finished shoe cabinet in the hallway near the front door.

At the end of the work, I calculated how much the materials cost me and how much time was spent on assembling the furniture.

Cost of materials

In a furniture workshop, I paid the invoice for the manufactured parts of the MDF cabinet:

  • the cost of MDF with a thickness of 16 mm is 1.5 m 2 = 1.5 x 330 rubles. = 495 rub.;
  • trimming with furniture tape - 8 m. x 10 rub. = 80 rub.;
  • cost of MDF 10 mm thick – 0.3 m2 = 0.3 x 210 rub. = 63 rub.;
  • set rotating device- 1 PC. = 42 rub.;
  • furniture handle 1 pc. = 20 rub.;
  • fiberboard sheet 812 x 470 mm in stock;
  • PVA glue available;
  • confirmations, plastic plugs, screws and wooden dowels in stock.

Total costs were: 700 rubles.

Labor costs

I assembled a shoe cabinet with my own hands according to the drawings in 6 hours. A highly qualified master will cope with such work in less time.

If you have experience and skills in handling tools, making such furniture is very profitable. You can be convinced of this by looking at the prices in furniture stores for such products. The cabinet allows you to place a large number of pairs of shoes in a rather narrow closet

Shoes are the passion of many women. How many pairs of shoes are needed for different occasions? Shoes for a business meeting, comfortable boots for walking, soft slippers. What then can we say when we are talking about a family where everyone needs boots or sneakers. Therefore, everyone faces the problem of storing it.

It is often difficult to install a spacious shelf in small hallway. Shelves and cabinets simply don't fit the size of your narrow hallway.

In this case, you need to contact a custom-made furniture workshop. However, such services are more expensive standard solutions factory production.

But the issue can be resolved differently. Make your own cabinet.

Shelves

The materials for making the cabinet can be chipboard and MDF, as well as plywood and natural wood.

It is necessary to take into account that plywood and wood are much more expensive than chipboards. But furniture made from these materials is more durable compared to Chipboard is better tolerates humid environments.

Chipboard and MDF boards, unlike wood, do not require additional processing.

The compressed structure of MDF makes the material quite durable. Working with this material is quite easy. Also consider its weight. We recommend using MDF only as a facade.

Chipboards have a wide color range. Therefore, it will be quite easy to fit the cabinet into the interior of the hallway.

As an additional decoration, you can order milling on the slab. This will make it unique.

DIY cabinet

A box for sneakers, sandals and boots and folding drawers.

In this article we will look at the manufacturing process of a cabinet, the frame of which is made of 16 mm chipboard. Partitions are completed from chipboard 10 mm.

Let's play on the arrangement of two colors. We will make the sidewalls, roof, internal pillars and bottom from dark alder, and the facades from light alder.

You can give your drawings and they will cut the chipboard boards for you in a store that has special equipment. You can also include edging tape in your order.

But if you are limited in funds or want to train your skills, then you can do it yourself at home. But it must be taken into account that without specialized tool and certain skills will not be easy to avoid chipping.

How to glue the edge yourself?

The edge happens paper and plastic.

To glue the edge at home, you need:

  1. Apply special glue to the edge.
  2. Heat the iron to maximum temperature.
  3. Press the edge using light pressure through the thick fabric.
  4. Remove any remaining glue.

Cabinet details

Parts made from 16 mm wood-laminated plates, dark alder color:

  • roof - 1100×250−1 piece;
  • bottom - 1100×250−1 piece;
  • sidewall - 668×250−2 pieces;
  • internal stand - 668×250−1 piece;
  • internal horizontal flat piece of wood - 526×250−3 pieces.

Parts made of 16 mm wood-laminated plates, light alder color:

  • facade - 311×51 -4 pcs.

Parts made from 10 mm wood laminate plates, light alder color:

  • internal partition of the shoe shoe - 510×140−4 pcs.;
  • internal partition of the shoe shoe - 510×135−4 pcs.;
  • internal partition of the shoe shoe - 510×85140−4 pcs.

Fibreboard part 3 mm, beige color:

  • back wall - 696×1096−1 pc.

Accessories:

  • shoe shoe - 192×287×85×16−4 sets;
  • handle - 4 pcs.;
  • thrust bearing - 6 pcs.;
  • confirmations - 1 pack;
  • self-tapping screws - 1 pack.

How to assemble?

To assemble the frame we will need:

  • sidewall - 2 pcs.;
  • roof.

We tighten the frame using comfirmats. To do this you will need a screwdriver and a commercial bit.

The final step will be installing the fiberboard back wall.

Installing the galosh

Dimensions and measurements should always be made in advance. So that you can know in advance what size the final product will be.

We mark the places where the rotation axis and the stop pin are attached. We screw the mechanisms to the sidewalls. Mounting dimensions and drawings are given below.

Each shoe shoe comes complete with a drawing and wiring diagram installations. According to the drawings, we make markings for fastening.

We fasten the overshoes to the sidewalls using self-tapping screws. The shoe shoe must have free movement.

We connect parts made of 10 mm chipboard with plastic parts. We insert the elements of the shoe shoe into the grooves and place them on the screws to the left side panel. Next, we screw it to the vertical partition. Let's do the same on the reverse side.

The final stage is the installation of facades. We use double-sided tape for this.

Then we attach the handles to the facades and installing thrust bearings.

A cabinet made with your own hands will please the eye and delight with its functionality, making movement around the hallway more comfortable. Your slippers will always be in their place.

Organizer made of fabric or cardboard

Quite a convenient and easy to carry thing.

Let's consider the case when the corridor is so small that there is no room for a bedside table at all. In this case, the organizer will come to our aid. It can be purchased at the store, or you can also make it yourself. The material for making the organizer can be fabric or a cardboard box.

If the hallway has a closet with a suitable niche, then you can place organizers in it. We stack them on top of each other and set by surprise. During the manufacturing process, we impregnate it 3 times with a water-repellent spray or a solution of water and PVA glue. Thus, our product will have greater rigidity.

DIY cardboard shelf

This is the most a budget option shelves. And everything you need to make it can be found at home.

You will need:

  1. cardboard;
  2. ruler;
  3. pencil;
  4. PVA glue;
  5. scissors or carpenter's knife;
  6. stapler;
  7. scotch.

The most budget option when necessary materials or no money.

Lay a sheet of cardboard on the floor. We cut out rectangles measuring 45 by 30 cm from it. We form triangles 30 cm high from cardboard. This is one cell of our shoe rack. Let's connect them in a row. The edges must be sealed with tape to prevent the cardboard from tearing.

This is a great solution for country houses. The disadvantages of such a shelf are instability and low reliability. Therefore, it is better to put it in a niche.

You can also construct an organizer from thick paper or wood directly on the cabinet door.

Shoe rack on a cabinet door made of cardboard:

  • cut out rectangles,
  • roll them into a pocket,
  • insert them into each other,
  • attach to the cabinet door.

Shelf from wooden planks:

  • Attach a wooden strip to the cabinet door.
  • Insert your sneakers, sandals or sneakers into the gap between the cabinet and the plank.

Open option. Quite convenient to use.

You can also make an open version of the product from wooden planks or boxes. In such a shelf the item will dry well. But it will also collect dust.

You can combine items and create a completely unique shoe rack that will not only collect all your shoes, but will also decorate your hallway. Use for own ideas maybe the most ordinary items: pipes, glass bottles.

So, you see that there are many solutions for how to organize and store shoes even in the narrowest hallway. Decide what suits you best. Choose a shoe rack design with moving or static shelves.

A shoe rack, also known as a shelf for storing shoes, should be present in every home, otherwise the hallway will be in complete chaos. By placing your shoes on a special shelf or putting them in a drawer, you maintain order and cleanliness in your home and protect your shoes from attacks by pets. Furniture stores offer a wide range of similar designs, but it is not always possible to choose suitable option for the interior, or the cost of production is prohibitively high. In this article we will look at several options for creating a stylish and functional shoe rack with your own hands.

The most important requirement for a shoe rack is the ability to accommodate the daily shoes of each family member. That is, a modest small cabinet is suitable for a bachelor, but for a family of 3-4 people, the size of the shoe rack should be appropriate. The main problem with store-bought models is that most of them were produced in China, where, as you know, they have a weakness for everything miniature and compact. In this case, compactness is not synonymous with ergonomics, so you have to pick up a hammer, boards and learn how to make a shoe rack with your own hands.

Another drawback of almost all shoe cabinets offered by stores is the complete lack of ventilation. Imagine this situation - you came home on a rainy day. autumn evening Friday, took off their shoes, put the wet shoes on the shelf and set out to spend the whole weekend at home. By Monday, when you have to go to work again, wet leather shoes will take on a very deplorable appearance. Ventilation is extremely important to keep shoes in good condition and extend their lifespan.

So, what qualities should an ideal shoe rack have:

  1. Ergonomics - a shoe closet should not take up half of the hallway.
  2. Functionality - this includes the concept of capacity and use for other purposes. For example, you can sit on a cabinet (the role of a stool), put things (the role of a bedside table), and a shoe rack with a mirror will become a kind of dressing table.
  3. The presence of good ventilation - we are not hinting that it is necessary to install fans and pipes inside the cabinet; it is enough to simply ensure the flow fresh air naturally.
  4. Aesthetics – the appearance and design of the shoe rack should be in harmony with the interior.

All shoe rack designs described below fully comply with these requirements.

Shoe dryer

This shoe rack will appeal to lovers of simple and practical solutions. The classic hanging dish dryer was taken as a basis. Why not? The structure does not stand on the floor, which means you can easily clean under it. The shelves are not solid, but in the form of grids made of of stainless steel, this means that water or melted snow will easily flow through the bars of such a metal shoe rack; they can be quickly washed by wiping with a rag. Such furniture looks quite original and minimalistic - no extra bulky doors, legs or decorative elements. This option is perfect for an apartment in high-tech and loft style.

Helpful advice: If pets live in the house, it is better to make lightweight doors to protect shoes. To do this, use glass or plastic.

The best part about working with your own hands is that you can customize any size you want. So, when drawing up a shoe rack, consider what shoes you use most often. For example, if a fisherman with feet size 45 lives at home and uses high rubber boots every other day, then the dimensions of the shelf should be appropriate. The upper part of such a “drying rack” can be reserved for slippers or light shoes. You should not put dirty or wet shoes there, so as not to damage the shoes on the floor below.

To make such a cabinet, you don’t need to buy a whole sheet of laminated chipboard - ordinary furniture panels are enough. They can be found in any construction supermarket, and the boards are already completely ready for assembly - they are glued with an edge and sawn into equal parts. We will not specifically write the exact height and width of the shoe rack so that you can create an individual drawing for your home.

The second thing to take care of is metal mesh. They are also sold in construction stores. The standard mesh widths are 46.4 cm, 56.4 cm, 76.4 cm and 86.4 cm, but non-standard ones can be ordered (this will cost a little more). If you take shelves with a maximum width of 86.4 cm, then external dimensions a cabinet with 4 shelves will be as follows (HxWxD): 120 x 90 x 34 cm. A depth of 34 cm is enough to fit size 45 boots.

Important point: To increase the functionality and compactness of the shelves, place them at an angle inside the cabinet. This way the water will flow in the desired direction, and the cabinet will take up minimal space.

What parts are needed to assemble a shoe rack:

  • sidewalls 118.4 x 32 cm – 2 PC(standard furniture board for the manufacture of wardrobes);
  • facades 119.5 x 44.7 cm – 2 PC(you can buy straight laminated chipboard panels or figured MDF facades);
  • top cabinet cover 90x 32 cm – 1 PC;
  • drawers 86.8 x 10 cm – 2 PC(also sold in furniture stores);
  • back wall 119.5x 89.5 cm – 1 PC(it is better to make it from thin and cheap hardboard).

All that remains is to buy the necessary fasteners and assemble the shoe cabinet. You don't even have to saw anything - everything finished parts already on sale!

Fittings and fasteners necessary for shoe dryers:

  • confirmat 5x 70 mm – 8 PC;
  • metal furniture corner – 8 PC;
  • self-tapping screws 4x 16;
  • 4-hinge furniture hinges – 4 PC;
  • dowels and facade handles - at your discretion.

To work, you will need ordinary tools that are found in every owner’s home - a drill, a screwdriver, a hammer.

How to assemble a shoe rack:

  1. With help confirmations pull the drawstrings to the sides of the future shoe rack. Drill in the sidewalls for confirmations through holes 8 mm in diameter, also make holes in the end parts of the drawers with a diameter of 5 mm and a depth of 55 - 60 mm. Drill so that the holes line up exactly.
  2. Screw half the number of corners to the top roof, and use the remaining 4 instead of wall fasteners, attaching them to the back side of the sides.
  3. Screw all parts with self-tapping screws. Before fixing the hardboard, check the evenness of the box geometry - its diagonals should be equal.
  4. Measure 15 cm at the top and bottom and 2.2 cm deep on the vertical sides of the facades. At the marked points, make holes for furniture hinges diameter 3.5 cm.
  5. Install the doors and screw the handles.
  6. Hang the cabinet at a height of 12-15 cm from the floor so that you can tidy up underneath it. The distance between the bottom and second shelf must be at least 35 cm in order for boots to fit there.

Helpful tip: In rainy or snowy weather, place a tray under the shoe rack to prevent water from dripping onto the floor.

Compact shoe rack

In this chapter we will describe step by step process creating a very original, miniature and elementary shoe rack. It will suit any interior design, and even children can be involved in the decorating process. Shoes on such a shelf look very neat, and it is simply impossible to create a clutter there.

Even those who have never held carpentry tools in their hands can cope with the creation of such a narrow shoe rack. You don’t even have to ask your neighbor for a hacksaw - just make a drawing with the right sizes and ask to cut the boards in the same construction store where you bought them! The only thing you can't do without during assembly is a drill.

To build a compact shoe rack you will need the following tools and materials (we provide dimensions for a design that is suitable for a bachelor or a young couple):

  • the simplest long shoe brushes with stiff bristles size 160 x 40 mm – 3— 5 PC(depending on the length of the future shoe rack);
  • moisture-resistant plywood 12 mm thick: 1020x 370 mm – 1 PC(A ); 1020x 90 mm – 1 PC(IN ); 1020x 130 mm – 1 PC (WITH) ; 90x 118 mm – 1 PC(D); 1020x 60 mm – 1 PC(E);
  • spikes 6 mm – 6 PC;
  • wood screws;
  • construction wood glue;
  • acrylic paint;
  • moisture-resistant transparent varnish;
  • brush;
  • dowels

You can decorate a shelf not only acrylic paints, even a regular one will do gouache, if you then immediately open it with transparent varnish. If you want to avoid varnish, use enamel. And if you like a beautiful wood texture, you can simply cover the shoe rack with clear varnish, slightly tinted with stain.

How to make a shoe rack:

  1. Assembly should begin with an element containing brushes. Drill 6 through holes in the edge of the plywood.

  2. Insert six spikes coated with glue into the resulting holes.

  3. In plywood WITH make exactly the same holes, coat it with glue and connect it with plywood B. It would be best to compress these elements with clamps until the glue completely hardens or simply install some kind of weight on them.

  4. Glue the sides of element D to the resulting structure in the same way. After each application of glue, firmly compress the parts to be glued.

  5. Using a wood hacksaw, saw off the handles of the brushes, if any (it is better to immediately buy the cheapest brushes without handles).

  6. Drill 2 through holes in each brush and screw them 1 cm from the edge of the structure with short self-tapping screws so that the caps are on inside brushes

  7. Make through holes with a drill in the unused parts of elements A and E, as shown in the image below.

  8. Using self-tapping screws, connect all parts of the shelf to the end.

  9. Paint the shoe rack the color you want or paint it different colors. In our case, we ended up with a plain, bright green design, but you can ask younger family members to participate in the process or paint the plywood yourself. If you have no talent for fine arts, you can do decoupage or assemble a mosaic.
  10. All that remains is to drill holes in the wall for the dowels and hang the shoe rack.

Shoe rack made of PVC pipes

Finally, we have prepared for you the most unusual and exciting master class on creating (let’s not be afraid of this word) a creative shoe rack for the hallway. With this design, you can always keep your home clean and tidy, and even children will be happy to put their shoes “in the house.”

What is this wonderful shoe rack made of? You will be surprised, but these are the most common sewer pipes made of polyvinyl chloride, which are found in any modern city apartment. They cost much less than quality wood or moisture-resistant plywood, but are characterized by an almost eternal service life and ease of installation.

For one such shoe rack you will need one sewer pipe 300 mm in diameter. The standard length of such a product is 3 m. To make a roomy and deep enough compartment for an adult’s shoes, 30 cm is enough. This means that from one pipe you will get as many as 10 shelves.

Cutting a PVC pipe will not work special labor. To do this, you can use a regular hacksaw with a fine tooth. Mark the surface with a marker and divide into 10 equal parts. Every piece of pipe On the one side process sandpaper to smooth out rough edges. The second end will be adjacent to the wall, so we need to sand it not at all necessary.

Since such round posts very much resemble stumps or logs, we decided to decorate them accordingly - by making an imitation of birch bark. Of course, you could draw it, but it’s much easier and faster to cover the pipes with wallpaper with a suitable pattern. You can decorate the shoe rack however you like. For a monochromatic “gray” hallway, shelves in bright, saturated colors are suitable; for a modest square, it is better to slightly shade the shoe rack by painting it black or dark brown color. Before painting, it is advisable to degrease the PVC so that the acrylic or gouache lays evenly.

All that remains is to glue all the pieces together with epoxy glue. First, glue 4 pieces horizontally, placing them on a flat surface. For a more secure fixation, press them together with clothespins or clamps, which can be removed after the glue has hardened.

Glue the next 3 blanks onto 4 pipes, and then the rest like a pyramid. In fact, the gluing sequence and the number of pipes in rows can change at your discretion. Epoxy glue is very strong, and if you glue the pipe with it well, it will not fall off even at an angle or when suspended. So this is a great opportunity to get creative.

An alternative way to create a shoe rack with your own hands from PVC pipes in video format:

Shoe rack: photo

There are a lot of options for shoe racks, but if you don’t know what to start with, go to the nearest furniture store and take one of the offered models as a basis. You can turn an ordinary “boring” shelf into a functional shoe rack with a seat, mirror, hanger or additional drawers for brushes and creams. But before you go shopping, we suggest you get inspired by the following photo selection:

The Count of Monte Cristo had 12 pairs of shoes for all occasions. Sir Henry Baskerville made do with 2 pairs of shoes for the summer, half of one was also stolen. These days, 20 pairs of shoes per family is not uncommon, but an apartment or house is not Baskerville Hall or a fairy-tale palace. High-quality shoes are expensive, but budget shoes must last at least a season to justify themselves. In this regard, the idea of ​​making a shoe rack with your own hands becomes especially relevant.

The very concept of “shoe rack” appeared relatively recently to designate a complex that provides orderly storage of out-of-season shoes and proper maintenance of shoes worn every day. As you know, the durability and wearability of shoes largely depends on the latter. However, restrictions on trade markups do not apply to accessories for wearable items, and for a simple shoe cabinet, which a craftsman can easily make with his own hands, traders want up to 5,000 rubles. and more, although retail materials for it can cost 1500-2000 or less. How? That's what this article is for.

Old simplicity

The traditional, simplest and cheapest option for storing common shoes in the hallway is a 2-row floor shelf made of 6-10 mm plywood; for drawings see fig. on right. Shoes with high tops or berets (laced tops with tongues) are placed on the protruding part. This shoe rack is good for everyone, except for one thing: for 10 pairs you will have to give almost 0.5 square meters. m usable area. And what’s worse, the width of 400 mm is the minimum possible for such a design. What if the entire hallway is 1.25 m wide? Therefore, the main trend in the design of modern shoe racks is compactness due to elongation and the use of simple mechanisms.

Note: subject to availability free space a simple shoe rack can be made in other ways, see for example. track. video.

DIY shoe rack, making (video)

Now

The main module of a compact shoe rack is a cabinet for storing out-of-season shoes (item 1 in the photo) with compartments for shoes without high tops and with tops/tops. The first ones are usually made 3 (spring, summer, autumn), and one high, but those living outside the city need 4 low and 2 high compartments; “extra” for placing work shoes. They will not hurt in the city, for children's shoes.

A shoe rack in the hallway is complemented, if there is enough space, with a bench or banquette for ease of putting on/taking off shoes. It is advisable to make openwork shelves under the seat for drying shoes (item 2), but in general it is better to dry shoes, especially for country residents, in a separate dryer, see below.

If there is very little space, you can get by with a pouf instead of a bench. A single owner can fit shoes out of season under his seat (item 3), but the conditions for storing them in this case are not entirely favorable. It is better to keep shoe care accessories in a pouf (see the drawing on the right), and place the supply of shoes in a separate organizer, see below. If the now unnecessary shoes are still in the pouffe, its drawer for ventilation should be equipped with holes in the bottom, and vents should be cut out under the seat.

The width of the pouffe seat and a regular bench is approx. 400 mm. In a narrow hallway with them there is less room for passage than ergonomics require, and even a hanger with clothes is right there. Therefore, the so-called petal shoe racks (item 4); shoes are stored in them in a vertical position on the shelves of folding trays, reinforced between the sector rotary sidewalls - petals. It is possible to make a petal-type shoe rack with a width of 250-260 mm: sitting down is enough, and in the hallway 1.25 m wide there is a passage of approx. 1 m, which is acceptable. In addition, the petal shoe rack provides good ventilation of the contents both with closed and open trays. And if you fold down the tray, the shoes dry in it better than on the shelves under the bench.

Due to their compactness and large capacity, petal shoe racks are often combined into monoblocks with other pieces of furniture for the hallway. A common option is a bedside table in the hallway with a shoe rack, pos. 5. With dimensions in plan (600-800) x (250-270) mm, it accommodates common shoes small family. If there is enough space (approx. 1.1 x 0.4 m in plan), the monoblock is supplemented with a seat (item 6).

If there is an unoccupied corner or niche in the hallway (which is not uncommon in old houses), then it is convenient to store shoes here in a carousel shoe rack, pos. 7. Dividing the contents into 4 seasons in the carousel shoe rack is achieved in the most natural way. For storage winter shoes(boots, ankle boots) shelves are partitioned asymmetrically, see fig. on right.

Note: A fairly spacious corner in the hallway deserves more than shoe storage. For example, see another video - how to equip a hallway corner cupboard with shoe compartment.

DIY wardrobe with shoe compartment (video)


Materials and connections

It is best to make a container for shoes from wood coniferous species or plywood. For maximum durability, dry shoes should be stored at room temperature and average (approx. 60-65%) humidity. But you can’t overdry shoes, especially budget ones made of leatherette; this often causes the uppers to crack. And over-drying will not benefit any other shoes, if only because the uppers with the markings of modern shoes are connected not with grit and nails, but with glue. Therefore, shoes are stored slightly damp. Porous wood will absorb excess water vapor, and if there is a lack of moisture in the air, it will release it. Wooden shoe rack - the only one reliable option storage of common shoes, if the box for them is blank, for example. in the pouf cabinet.

Properly dried shoes (see the end for more information on drying shoes and dryers for them) in a well-ventilated storage room can be stored immediately. In this case, the shoe rack can be made of laminated chipboard with a thickness of 12 mm; for the face you can order more expensive, but also more spectacular MDF. Laminated chipboard for shoe racks should be taken of medium grades after the expiration of phenol-containing compounds (E1 or E2). “Children’s” laminated chipboard of class E0 is expensive and fragile, and cheap lower classes E3 and E4 emit too much phenolic resin vapor. They are no less harmful to shoe leather, synthetics and glue than they are to you and me. For the same reason, OSB is not suitable for shoe racks - it is a building structural material that emits excess phenol during construction.

Note: Shoe racks made of metal and plastic are made only open and freely ventilated. The reason is that while laminated chipboard breathes at least a little in step with the shoes, metal and plastic do not breathe at all.

As for the connections of the shoe rack parts, they can be any kind of furniture: on dowels, confirmations, corners/overlays, tenons, miters, staples with a furniture stapler, etc. In general, assemble as you know how. For movable joints of petal shoe racks, see below.

How to make shoe racks

Petalaceae

Shoe racks with folding trays on petals are the most perfect, so let's start with them. The most, at first glance, complex (and expensive when buying a kit at retail) parts - side petals - can be made with your own hands from sheet metal or hard plastic with a thickness of 4 mm or more. You can also cut the petals out of plywood with a thickness of 6 mm, soak them twice and then dilute them twice acrylic varnish on water based. Impregnation is needed in in this case to increase the rigidity of the part. The varnish is diluted with distilled (!) water.

Drawings of the petal shoe rack are shown in Fig. below. Each tray is 2-tier (spring-autumn and summer-house). For tall shoes you will have to add a locker, because... shoes with tops and ankle boots do not fit in the trays; this is probably the only drawback petal shoe racks. Total height one section H is taken from 300 mm. The upper and lower gaps between the tray cover and the front panel of the shoe rack are required to be at least 6 mm for ventilation. For the same purpose, the “sinus” pocket above the top tray should also be ventilated. To do this, a series of holes with a diameter of 40 mm or more are made at the top of the back wall of fiberboard or a gap is left. Ball locks or removable pins are installed in point A of the middle shelf (marked with a red arrow) so that the position of the middle shelf can be adjusted according to the contents.

The design and dimensions of this type of trays for storing shoes in a wall niche with a depth of only 200 mm are given in the following. rice. The peculiarity of this design is that the sockets of the rotary hinges (see below) are made simply in the form of holes in brackets made of steel angles, mounted from the inside on the front trim of the niche. The tilting clamps are also attached to them, if it is far from the side walls of the niche. In this design, the front cover of the tray can be as high as desired, so this option Petal shoe racks can also be made for high shoes. One condition is that the front trim of the niche must be strong enough, not fragile. Drywall, for example, is not suitable in this case.

Note: How to assemble a narrow shoe cabinet with your own hands, see the master class below.

DIY shoe cabinet (video)

Hinges and clamps

In petal, and some other shoe racks (see below) with hinged doors, there is another, at first glance, tricky assembly unit - a rotary hinge. There seems to be no way other than buying it, but you can still make it yourself. You only need pieces of a thin-walled seamless tube, preferably brass - pieces of housings ballpoint pens, elbow connectors of old spinning rods, etc. The cases of some types of Cuban cigars are excellent, but the prices for them now are not good for the night. And the actual procedure for making a homemade hinge for a folding shoe tray is as follows:

  • We cut off parts from the tube with a length equal to the depth of the hinge socket. Usually - 1/2-2/3 of the thickness of the side wall of the shoe rack, but not less than 10 mm. The walls behind the nest should remain at least 5-6 mm. These will be socket clips, you need 2 of them for each hinge..
  • Using a scraper (scraper, reamer), the same one used, say, when installing/dismantling air conditioner pipelines, we remove 0.25-0.35 mm chamfers from the inside of the clips.
  • We select bolts for the holders with a round head of such a diameter that they fit into the holder with a gap of up to 0.5 mm. We remove burrs on the heads of the bolts (if the slot is straight) with a needle file. If necessary, you can use sandpaper to adjust the head to the holder.
  • Use a Forstner drill to drill holes for the clips; It is advisable to take a drill of such a diameter (or select tubes for the clips) so that the clips fit tightly into the hole.
  • We press the clips into the holes. If they fit freely, you can glue them with any assembly adhesive on metal.
  • We install the bolts accordingly. holes in the petals, tighten with nuts and spring washers - the hinges are ready for assembly.

Storage

It is preferable to store shoes that are not worn for a long time in a stable favorable microclimate (see above). Also, a cabinet or cabinet for out-of-season shoes in another room is necessary if there is not enough space in the hallway. In general, it is undesirable to keep shoes that have not been worn for a long time in the hallway, especially in a private house, where through an open front door It can feel cold or damp.

Rack and cabinet

Scheme open shelving For long-term storage shoes and a more compact shoe cabinet with hinged doors are shown in Fig. above and below respectively. The rack provides optimal conditions for long-term storage of up to 30 or more pairs of shoes, but requires approx. 0.6 sq. m area. With minimal ergonomics, this rack requires a dressing room of 6 square meters. m. The rack has no back wall; it is attached to the wall with steel corners and 6x70 self-tapping screws in plastic dowels. The material of the shelves and walls is board or chipboard 20 mm and timber 30x30 mm. Shelves, for better ventilation, from steel mesh on wooden frames.

Note: This rack is universal. High and low sections can be added to it in width and height without restrictions, as long as there is enough space. Due to the distribution of fastenings, the wall behind the rack may be weak, e.g. a partition made of foam concrete or aerated concrete blocks.

The shoe cabinet is more compact and fits in a passage with a width of 1.5 m. The length of the cabinet is up to 2 m. The shelves are of the same design as in the previous one. case; They are attached to the sidewalls with dowels, corners, in milled grooves or on regular shelf holders. The back wall is ventilated, like a petal shoe rack (see above). An option with ventilation almost like a rack - a cabinet without a back wall with a gap between the cabinet and the wall of 40 mm (the width of the floor plinth). Then assembling the cabinet according to the diagram on the bottom right in Fig. The lining at the back is made from the same board as the shelves with partitions.

Organizers

But what to do if there is no space at all for a shoe closet? In this case, an organizer for long-term storage of shoes that are not currently worn will help out. True, in furniture stores you will most likely be offered a special shoe organizer closet (item 1 in the figure), which, with the doors open, will take up somewhere from 2 square meters. m. But in haberdashery and clothing stores you can find an incomparably cheaper shoe organizer-suitcase made of fabric, pos. 2, fits under the bed. In addition, shoes breathe freely in it.

But you don’t even need to buy a suitcase organizer if you have a sufficient number of shoe boxes. They are simply glued together, pos. 3. It is no more difficult for shoes to breathe in such an organizer, and it is easier to push it into the niche of the under-bed drawer. In this case, the soft organizer-suitcase often gets stuck.

A shoe organizer made of cardboard can also be glued together, for example. to the dacha, pos. 4. Designed with imagination, it can be completely in place in the apartment, if there is a suitable niche in the hallway, pos. 5. Then the cardboard shoe rack in the niche should be positioned in a spaced position so that the sides of the niche give rigidity to the entire product. For the same purpose, cardboard blanks are impregnated 2-3 times on both sides with a water-polymer emulsion or PVA diluted 2-3 times with water.

About drying and dryers

Wet shoes should be dried before storing them in a shoe rack or storage room. But – don’t buy electric shoe dryers for your home (see picture)! Their purpose is to quickly dry work shoes during business trips, field or expeditionary conditions, when you need to take over a shift or, say, go out for measurements minute by minute, and the cost of work shoes is included in advance in the estimate or current expenses.

Casual shoes cannot be dried from the inside, Otherwise, even in expensive branded products, the top may crack or the sole may peel off before the warranty period expires. In such cases, experts in branded stores immediately determine that, sorry, the case is not covered by warranty. Here you go - a methodological guide with pictures. You dried them the way it is written here, right?

Everyday shoes should be dried either in a tilted toes-down position (pos. 1 in the figure below), or, better yet, hanging (but not by the laces or on the pins/toes!) pos. 2 and 3, or, even better, from the sole side, pos. 4. Stylish dryer-organizer for shoes, pos. 2 is technologically not that difficult if you know how to handle sheet plastics or stainless metals.

However, the most effective absorption dryer is pos. 4: completely wet boots dry in it in 2-4 hours at room temperature! As you know, the faster wet shoes dry without additional heating, the longer they last.

The secret of absorption shoe drying is in the stone backfill and accuracy: before you put your shoes on the dryer, you need to wash them. Crushed stone for an absorption dryer needs dolomite or other stone made of sufficiently durable and chemically low-active stone with greater moisture absorption. Activated carbon(not pharmaceutical tablets!) or silica gel dry shoes even faster, but drying them later is no easier than restoring the box of an old coal gas mask. The best filling for an absorption shoe dryer is sea shell or rounded sea ​​pebbles. The service life of winter and work shoes, if they are kept on such backfill for the entire season, in addition to the time of use, almost doubles.

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