After completion of construction wooden house made of timber, you have to deal with this situation - you want to see a reliable rough foundation on top, instead of wooden beams, to implement the intended design, install decor and a spectacular interior. I didn’t have to hire craftsmen to file the ceiling; it’s enough to follow generally accepted rules to make wooden ceiling with your own hands, reliable for many years.
Wooden beams are used mainly in private houses, in apartments - concrete floors. But it's quite possible to do beam structure at major renovation roofs on top floor, this is better than creating a concrete partition.
Wooden beams are mainly used in private houses
Preliminary preparation
We will need:
- Ladder;
- Construction trestle;
- Self-tapping screws, screwdriver;
- Sheathing material, heat and vapor barrier;
- Construction level, stationery knife;
- Antiseptic, construction adhesive, fire-fighting compound.
Antiseptic
First, I inspect the beams for defects: cracks, chips, curvature, mold, cover the cracks with putty, clean suspicious areas, treat them with an antiseptic, primer, after which they can be painted, if necessary, to do it once and for centuries.
The rough base together with the beams can be treated with an antiseptic with the addition of a teaspoon of universal construction glue so that the mixture does not drip and creates a more durable film.
Rough ceiling finish
There are many durable materials for lining a rough ceiling, embodying the intended interior, a special design of the room, even without cladding, in an antique style. Depending on the purpose of the interior of the room, finishing and decor are selected.
Filing the rough ceiling
For example, for rough repairs, interior, when planning a design or decor in a bathhouse, you cannot use the following elements:
- Various wooden ceiling panels: chipboard, fibreboard, plywood, because when high humidity they will become deformed.
- Plastic, it can be used to decorate a rough base, a ceiling with a wood and antique look, to emphasize the design even without facing cladding, but it has poor thermal insulation properties, condensation will form, and then mold on the finish.
- Timber containing resins that will drip when heated. This can be lath or MDF, it is important to check before purchasing.
Board installation
She happens to be reliable basis to implement the intended design. The structure is hemmed with treated boards or narrower slats, clapboard, which, even without cladding, can emphasize any design, especially antique.
The boards are attached at a distance of no more than 30-40 cm from each other - if we do not have enough funds. Ideally, end-to-end with minimal gaps between each other. Also, if the wooden ceiling will be plastered with heavy clay with antique decor, then it is necessary to connect the slats not on one beam, but in a checkerboard pattern, if facing finishing will be clapboard, slabs, drywall - you can save a lot of time by securing all the slats to one beam.
The structure is hemmed with treated boards or narrower slats
There is one method for a high-quality installation of a rough ceiling, which I really like: the boards (inches, 25 mm) are not cut to length (6 m), not fed through windows, doors, but from the outside, under the joists, on the side of the building, all the slats at once . For this, two people are enough, you need to make sure that the distance between the wall and the beam lying on it is 5 cm, I also secure the boards together metal plate. A mauerlat (a wooden lath, for ease of construction) is placed under them, under it there are strips of roofing material on three sides, the 4th side is needed to supply the wooden lath and materials, I install the last beam with the mauerlat on this side at the end.
Beams in a private house
Subtleties during the initial board finishing
Let's consider the main subtleties of the work, which will allow you to make a rough base and a wooden ceiling much faster and save a lot of timber.
It is important that the board extends the entire length of the room, lays on the walls, which is very convenient, there is no need to level, trim a lot of boards, and in fact there is no small waste. All slats along their entire length are placed on the outside of the wall at once, then they are moved by one person, and the second person arranges them from inside the building on another wall.
Ceiling board
After the material is supplied, it is leveled and then mounted with self-tapping screws to the beams. It should be noted that even 2 self-tapping screws are enough to hold a person on the board from above, which simplifies assembly and speeds up work when feeding slats and adjusting them. If the length is much longer than required, then the slats are not attached to the last beam; if less, then they are cut along the last beam with a jigsaw along the entire length, taking into account that the slats can be secured to the beam on the other side.
The missing length can be easily eliminated in the same way - by feeding all the material, fixing it on the logs, we also cut off the remaining hanging length with a jigsaw, having first placed an evenly long strip under the material so that the cut is even.
DIY rough ceiling
Completion of installation
The design of our design is such that a small gap remains at the edge, for which we cut the required width from the inch to the full length, after which we mount it to the beams. Then we are left with one side from which we fed the timber.
We attach roofing felt and Mauerlat to it with strips; let me remind you that we don’t have timber at the edge, so the boards can be bent upward, for which they are not nailed to the outermost existing beam. After assembly, they are nailed to the mauerlat and nailed to the timber.
When performing work, do not forget about safety
By doing finishing works It is extremely important not to forget that the wooden ceiling is not yet ready, the bars at the edge are not screwed down, you need to be on the walls and in the places where the beams are attached, in order to avoid injuries.
There are also MDF boards s - they are a reliable support for the embodiment of designer masterpieces and finishing. Assembly is carried out much faster than with a board. But the ceiling is out wooden slats wins against MDF boards, because the leftovers will definitely go to the frame for filing. Not to mention the high price of MDF, so the boards are inferior, but rough assembly is also faster, which is a significant plus.
Wooden ceiling upholstery
Assembly of hydro- and vapor barrier
First you need to decide what the room will be used for, if there is another heated room on top, then there is no point in installing heat and sound insulation on the sub-ceiling, wooden surfaces They distribute noise and heat quite well.
The vapor barrier is installed along the entire perimeter of the ceiling, especially well stretched in the corners, laid with an overlap, the boards are mounted overlapping. This will help protect the rough base and wooden ceiling from rotting and mold.
Ceiling vapor barrier - effective and high quality
Subtleties of laying insulation
At improper installation insulation, it is possible to destroy the baseboards and decor, the rough ceiling, even cause a fire, for which you should slowly study the instructions so as not to confuse the sides, because the markings different companies may contradict each other.
Important! If not planned dropped ceilings, and distance from spotlights will be less than 5 cm to the rough ceiling, then when assembling thermal insulation you should know in advance where to attach the lamps, since the insulation can catch fire due to temperature.
It is enough to cut circles of about 20 cm in the material around the planned lamp, this will create a good fire safety, which is extremely important for a wooden house, and wooden decorative elements. It is important to establish these places during the installation of the material - we measure the places from the wall, then put a mark on top, in the form of a circle with a diameter of 20 cm.
Integrated thermal insulation reduces building energy losses
The same applies to vapor barriers, although the material is quite durable, it is not resistant to high temperatures, can melt and lead to a fire, especially if the rough, facing finish and decor are made of untreated lining. Thus, an emphasized design can lead to dire consequences for the interior and the integrity of the room.
But since the lamps and decor are not mounted to the sub-ceiling, like the wiring, it is enough to install heat-reflecting foil, 20 by 20 cm squares, on the vapor barrier below, at the mounting points. It will not be visible, but it will help preserve the interior of the room and not damage the intended design with decor.
Installing thermal insulation in a wooden ceiling
As we see, it is quite possible to make a wooden ceiling with your own hands quickly and efficiently. In addition, you can hem the rough base yourself, faster, better than many workers.
Good implementation of ceilings in a wooden house is not limited to their design in accordance with the chosen style. Nice ceiling is a complex multi-component system that retains heat and provides natural air exchange in room. Therefore, if you decide to make ceilings in a wooden house with your own hands, you need to approach their installation with close attention.
The structure of the ceiling in a wooden house can be divided into two components - the rough ceiling and the finishing one. The first serves for insulation and sound insulation, and the second performs decorative function. As a rule, both ceilings are separated as much as possible to eliminate influence on each other.
In general, the ceiling design is similar to a layer cake, consisting of the following layers:
- finishing ceiling;
- rough filing;
- vapor barrier;
- thermal insulation (in most cases it also plays the role of sound insulation);
- waterproofing;
- flooring.
However there are some differences in implementation ceilings, which depend on temperature regime in delimited areas. So, if the ceiling is made between two floors, which will be equally heated, then a vapor barrier is not needed; it will be enough to treat the rough ceiling with an antiseptic so as not to prevent rotting and mold. You can also not install thermal insulation, since there will be no temperature difference. It’s another matter if the ceiling borders on an unheated attic or summer attic. In this case, the entire range of work is required.
Making a rough ceiling
It is not difficult to make a rough ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands. Essentially, this is a binder made of boards, OSB sheets or plywood.
As an example, let's consider making a rough frame from boards. For this you will need:
- edged or tongue-and-groove boards 25 mm thick (you should choose softwood);
- nails 70 mm long.
The progress of work is as follows:
- is selected required amount boards that are cut to the required size;
- the board is fixed to each floor beam with at least two nails “in space”, i.e. the nail is driven in at an angle of approximately 45 degrees towards its edge;
- tongue and groove boards are attached to the beams with a groove from the wall;
- All wooden elements covered with antiseptic and fireproof impregnation.
Now, even if gaps appear between the boards in the future, this will not affect the thermal insulation, since the insulation serves the function of retaining heat in the house.
Ceiling insulation
You can insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands in two ways - from above and from below. This depends on the availability of flooring on the upper level. But first it is necessary to say a few words about the choice of insulation.
Any insulation must be lightweight, fireproof, not harmful to health, and have low thermal conductivity. Besides, great importance has soundproofing properties of the material. The whole variety of insulating materials can be divided into organic, inorganic, polymer and combined. Each type has its own characteristics, which may affect the further choice of thermal insulator.
Organic materials - sawdust, peat, straw and their cement mixtures. They are cheap and environmentally friendly, but are easily flammable and reduce their thermal insulation properties over time.
From polymer insulation The most common types are polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. These materials are also low cost, lightweight and quite durable. At the same time, they are destroyed by temperature changes, are fire hazardous and are often damaged by rodents.
Inorganic insulation materials include vermiculite, perlite and expanded clay. They are distinguished by relatively low thermal insulation qualities and high weight, so the use of these materials is appropriate where the ceiling is made of reinforced beams with continuous lining.
Also applies to inorganic insulation mineral wool, which thanks to its high consumer properties, received the greatest preference among specialists.
Ceiling insulation from above
If there is no flooring in the attic, then insulating the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands is most conveniently done from its side. To do this, you need to perform the following sequence of work:
- vapor barrier is being installed. The film is laid out over the entire area of the ceiling so that it fits snugly against the rough filing and beams. The overlap on the walls must be at least 10 cm. The vapor barrier is fixed using a stapler or slats;
- the selected insulation is laid flush with ceiling beams. If mineral wool is laid in several layers, then upper layer should overlap the joints of the previous one. When laying polystyrene foam, a gap of 1 cm is left between the plates, which is then blown in polyurethane foam;
- On top, the insulation and beams are covered with waterproofing film or glassine.
Note! If a chimney passes through the attic, then the spaces near it must be insulated non-flammable material. For this purpose, a slab made from a mixture of clay (4 parts), sawdust (1 part), cement (0.3 parts) and water (2-2.5 parts) is suitable.
The ceiling in a wooden house is insulated in the same way with your own hands (a video example is given below) bulk materials: sawdust or expanded clay. Feature this option is that the thermal insulation layer must be compacted well. He shouldn't miss.
Insulation of the ceiling from inside the room
If it is not possible to carry out work from above, then you can insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands (photo shown below) from the side of the living room.
The insulation process has the following sequence:
- waterproofing is attached to the beams and flooring;
- nails are driven into the beams, onto which a string is pulled in a zigzag pattern;
- Insulation is placed in the space between the beams so that the threads hold the material. To do this, after laying several layers of thermal insulation, the nails are driven in completely with the heads recessed;
- vapor barrier is fixed.
Now the ceiling can be covered with plasterboard or other material.
The same insulation method can be used when repairing the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands. To do this, you need to remove the damaged material from the ceiling. decorative coating, dismantle the rough ceiling and perform the sequence of work described above.
Ceiling finishing
The finishing can be done with any suitable material. Therefore, let's consider The most simple and common design techniques:
I. Application of drywall. The peculiarity of this finish is that the gypsum plasterboard ceiling does not tolerate deformations that occur due to the fact that the wood “breathes”. To avoid this, a two-tier frame is made. First, load-bearing profiles are mounted to the floor beams using special quick hangers, which provide a certain amount of play.
Next, the second tier of supporting profiles is attached to the first row. For this purpose, two-level CD connectors are used, which also ensure that the profiles are offset relative to each other. The second row of profiles is tied to the walls through a special damper tape.
Thus, a movable frame is obtained, the lower plane of which remains stationary, and the upper plane can move up and down by 3-4 mm.
Drywall sheets are attached to the frame and processed in the usual way.
II. Stretch ceilings can be installed immediately after the house is built. To use them, there is no need to wait for the building to shrink, since they are well adapted to compensate for the resulting deformations.
III. Slatted ceilings, lining or cards from natural wood attached to the sub-ceiling using wooden sheathing with a step corresponding to the material used.
List possible options Finishing the ceiling can be continued, since there are no restrictions in the choice of materials used. The main thing is that the end result matches the intended style of the room.
It is important to properly arrange the rough ceiling. There are different coatings, which are different from each other. It all depends on what type of flooring is used in the building.
A few words about wooden floors
The ceilings in a wooden house are made of beams. That is why it is important to install a rough ceiling in these rooms. It allows you to form the surface of the ceiling. The finishing will then be done on top of it.
How to arrange a draft ceiling correctly
First of all, you should find out what you want to get. Costs depend on this.
To design a rough ceiling:
- A special material for vapor barrier is aimed at the beams from below.
- Then edged boards are placed on it.
- After this, the vapor barrier material is laid again.
- Next, if there is a second floor, make its floor. Edged boards are used for this.
- A layer is made from the bars decorative type. It is placed below.
A complete rough ceiling is a reliable foundation on which the finishing is subsequently formed. In brick and concrete houses floor slabs serve as such a basis; in wooden buildings, the boundaries between floors are formed by beams sheathed with a “pie” of insulating materials. If you have a set of tools and basic experience in handling wood, putty, and primer, all work can be done on your own.
In order to correctly file a rough ceiling, it is important to understand what exactly it consists of. interfloor covering. Each layer plays its own role:
- A plank floor is a finishing or intermediate finishing option for a room located above (using the example of a two-story wooden building).
- Vapor barrier. Necessary to protect floors from excessive circulation of moist air.
- The insulation eliminates cold penetration points from unheated areas.
- Waterproofing prevents the destruction of wood due to harmful contact with moisture.
- Rough ceiling wooden beams completes the installation of the ceiling and serves as a support for all intermediate fillers.
Typically, finishing comes down to installing layers of plasterboard assembled on metal sheathing. This is one of the budget solutions that is in demand among owners of country houses.
Review of materials and tools
To file a rough ceiling, you will need boards 25 mm thick; they are fixed with nails or screws 45-55 mm long. There are no strict requirements for appearance material, since it will be hidden under a layer of finishing cladding. It is important that the raw material as a whole is strong and smooth.
As an alternative, you can use plywood; it is attached to a frame made of bars and slats. It is more convenient to work with the board because it does not require preliminary assembly of the sheathing.
Minimum set of tools:
- hammer,
- stapler,
- jigsaw,
- screwdriver
An economical method of insulation is the use of sawdust and mineral wool in a 1:1 ratio. First, sawdust is poured in and covered with mineral wool.
Installation of a rough ceiling made of boards
The work comes down to performing two tasks:
- It is necessary to sheathe the logs with boards. The material is fixed using self-tapping screws or nails; the quality of the final result is identical in both cases.
- The wood is covered with layers of heat and waterproofing.
When preparing raw materials, it is important to clearly check the dimensions of the boards. If you are careless about adjusting the dimensions, cracks and gaps may form in the ceiling. The better this stage is completed, the more reliable and durable the finished structure will be.
The option with boards nailed to the underside of the joists is distinguished by its rationality and ease of execution; it requires minimum costs time and resources. But such a solution also has weak side– the ceiling will hide the beams; when there is a need for quick access to them, such manipulations will be difficult to carry out.
Therefore, a more complicated solution is practiced when the boards do not cover the beams:
- the first step is to fix the cranial bars on the logs;
- boards are mounted on top;
- layers of steam and thermal insulation materials can be placed both under and above the boards.
This option is very popular in conditions where beams act as central decorative elements, they are left in sight after finishing the floor. The result is a textured interior in the style of Provence or a mountain house, stylish and practical at the same time.
How to make a rough ceiling from plywood?
Here the key component is the sheathing - a frame made of guides, that is wooden beams and slats. When laying out plywood, you need to carefully ensure that the sheets do not form gaps and fit as tightly as possible to each other.
Installation sequence:
- The logs are lined with a vapor barrier membrane.
- Next, assemble the sheathing and fix the plywood on it.
- During installation of the rough cladding, the frame cells are filled with thermal insulation material.
After assembling the rough ceiling using wooden beams, you can begin finishing. It is important to use heat and waterproofing measures here.
Rough ceiling on concrete slabs
It is rare to find perfectly straight floor slabs; distortions are especially typical for buildings commissioned 20-30 years ago. With time concrete structures sag, deform, if several sections were used to construct the ceiling, you can notice the differences in height with the naked eye. A rough ceiling in a private house of this type allows you to achieve a uniform surface adapted for finishing.
Preparatory measures must be taken:
- remove residues old decoration, if present, clean the surface of wallpaper, plaster, and paint. Special attention need to pay attention to the seams between the walls and ceiling tiles, after preparation they are smoothed with cement mortar;
- the gaps between the panels are filled with polyurethane foam and sealant;
- Ceiling tiles are primed evenly; to improve quality, 2-3 layers can be applied, successively allowing them to dry.
After 24 hours, you can proceed directly to the rough ceiling:
- Self-tapping screws and plastic dowels can be used as beacons. The accuracy of setting landmarks is controlled using a building level;
- To apply the starting layer of putty, a wide spatula is also convenient. It is customary to select a working tool in accordance with the initial curvature of the base surface;
- A liquid primer is applied to the dried layer.
Specifics of assembling hydro-, heat- and vapor barriers
In the construction of a draft ceiling, materials are used that have the following characteristics:
- low thermal conductivity,
- low dead weight,
- fire safety,
- high levels of noise insulation.
Insulation materials can be polymer, organic, combined, or inorganic. The former are attractive due to their high strength and relative lightness; they are sold in the budget price segment.
Polymer substances - polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene - cannot withstand temperature fluctuations, they are a fire hazard.
Organic insulation materials, such as straw and sawdust, peat, are affordable and environmentally friendly. But there are also disadvantages - rapid ignition, gradual decrease in thermal insulation performance.
Inorganic variations can only be used in floors with reinforced wooden beams and continuous lining. This category includes perlite, mineral wool, expanded clay, and vermiculite. Mineral wool is most convenient to use - it is not as heavy as other representatives of the segment and exhibits optimal consumer properties.
Insulation is carried out from above or below, depending on whether the upper level is supplemented with flooring.
Installation sequence if flooring is not provided:
- Laying vapor barrier in the form of a special membrane film. The material is spread on the ceiling, tightly fixed with a construction stapler. The membrane should ideally follow the contours of the beams and rough filing.
- The insulation is laid out so that the final surface is level with the level of the beams.
- A waterproofing film is spread on top.
If there is flooring, insulating the ceiling from above becomes impossible; in such conditions, work is carried out directly in the living room:
- Beams and flooring are covered with waterproofing.
- Nails are driven into the beams to stretch the twine in a zigzag pattern - this is the basis for layers of insulation, placed so that the rope holds them.
- Next, the vapor barrier is fixed.
After completing the formation of the draft ceiling, proceed to finishing. Materials are selected in accordance with the priority style of residential premises, usually plasterboard, plastic panels, lining or slatted structures, stretch fabrics. A separate niche is occupied by interiors in which the beams remain open, in which case the wood is thoroughly impregnated protective compounds that need regular updating.
