How to cover OSB for the winter. Which lathing for flexible tiles is better - types and rules of construction. Single-layer lathing made of panel materials

Good afternoon
We are building frame house, it is covered with OSB boards, there is a roof - corrugated sheets, it will go into winter in this form. During the summer, after several rains, the OSB delaminated in some places. Is it possible to cover the walls with windproof film for the future ventilated façade for the winter and will it not lose its properties by spring? And what material is better to take: Izospan A, AD? The facade will be a blockhouse.

Cover up an unprotected façade windproof film it is possible, but this will not completely solve the problem of preserving OSB. The fact is that the windproof membrane is designed to withstand the impact of individual droplets, which are the result of condensation falling on roofing. Good slanting rain, downpour, wet snow is beyond its power, the windproof membrane will “cry” with inside. Undoubtedly, wind protection will reduce the wetting of the OSB, but will not completely eliminate it.

A windproof membrane is a good thing when it is covered with exterior finishing

OSB-3 boards, which will most likely cover the frame of your house, can only be called moisture resistant with a stretch. And then we can talk about their resistance to moisture only in relation to chipboard, fiberboard, OSB-1 and OSB-2, which quickly deteriorate under the influence of water. OSB-3 is not intended for use as fencing wall material without further finishing, unlike, for example, cement particle boards(DSP). By the way, in Canada and the USA, where they came to us from frame technologies, for finishing decent houses that should last a long time, they use waterproof plywood, particle boards- the lot of the poorest.

Manufacturers provide such characteristics as the degree of swelling of an oriented strand panel when placed in water for 24 hours. For OSB-3 it is 15%. This is not so little, contrary to the claims of sellers and manufacturers. Of course, on the walls the particle boards are in a vertical position and are only exposed to slanting rain on one side. However, let’s assume that there are showers, sleet, and humidity for a week or two. Low air temperatures and the absence of sun do not allow the walls to dry.

OSB sheets that are not protected from precipitation will get wet and swell. At the same time, they will increase not only in thickness, but also in length and width, albeit not so significantly. As a result, the particle boards, rigidly fixed to the frame, will warp. And it is not a fact that when they dry they will return to their original shape; residual deformations are very likely. In addition, the fastening points will weaken, delamination of the ends may occur (it has already begun for you), and the strength of the gluing will decrease. It is unlikely that particle boards will not suffer critical damage in one season, but their service life will be shortened and the overall stability of the frame will decrease, that’s a fact.

OSB is not a completely waterproof material; it will inevitably deteriorate if exposed to moisture for a long time.

In our opinion, the following options are possible for temporary protection of an unfinished facade from precipitation:

Stretch the windproof membrane Izospan A (18 RUR/m2) over the vertical sheathing, use a block 4-5 cm thick. The film is quite weak, it is not a fact that it will successfully survive the winter and will not be torn by the winds.
Use Izospan AM (24 rubles/m2) or Izospan AS (35 rubles/m2). Three-layer wind protection is stronger, less permeable to water vapor, but three times more water-resistant, which means it will get wet less. Under the finishing (blockhouse) it could be stretched without lathing, directly over the slabs. But in your case, a ventilated gap and sheathing are needed. It is necessary to ensure free flow of air, the gap should be at the bottom and at the top, under the roof. Option #2 is preferable.
Stretch any cheaper vapor-waterproofing material over the sheathing, maintaining ventilation: roofing felt, reinforced construction vapor barrier, dense plastic film for greenhouses (enough for one season). When covering the facade, the waterproofing will have to be removed.

While there is no finishing, polyethylene film, with or without reinforcement, can be used as temporary protection

The right decision would still be to tighten up with finances and finish by the fall exterior finishing, covering the facade with a blockhouse along a vertical sheathing. In the end, it will be cheaper, because the OSB boards themselves can serve as wind protection if they are carefully fitted. You won't have to spend money on film.

Correct solution"puff pastry" frame wall. If the OSB boards fit well and the insulation is completely closed, they will also serve as wind insulation. There is no need to spend money on an additional membrane.

Expert advice

Prev Next

To Oil paint does not dry out during storage and so that a film does not form on it, place a circle of thick paper on the surface of the paint and “fill it thin layer drying oils

"The polyethylene film covering the balcony or greenhouse is protected from being torn off by the wind by a string stretched on both sides at intervals of 10-15 cm."

"To work with concrete mixture it was easier, clay is usually added to it, but clay reduces the strength of the mixture. Add a spoon to it washing powder based on a bucket of water. "

"To prevent the screw, the head of which is hidden behind the obstacle, from rotating along with the tightened nut, you need to throw several turns of thread or thin wire over it and lightly tighten the ends. Due to friction, the screw is held well in place. The ends of the thread can be cut off after tightening."

"You can cut out a birdhouse entrance without a brace. It is enough to split the front side of the board in the center and cut out the half-holes with a chisel or hatchet required size, and then reconnect the halves. "

Wooden screw plugs crumble and fall out of the wall. Take your time to cut out the new plug. Fill the hole in the wall tightly with nylon from an old stocking. Using a nail of a suitable diameter heated red hot, melt a hole for the screw. The fused nylon will turn into a strong cork.

"It is not difficult to turn a carpenter's level into a theodolite by equipping it with an aiming device from a slot and a front sight."

"In order for two strips of linoleum to lie end to end, it is convenient to use a self-adhesive decorative film, placing it under the base of noleum. "

"So that the nail goes in the right direction and does not bend when driven into deep hole or groove, you should place it inside the tube, securing it with crumpled paper or plasticine. "

Before drilling a hole in concrete wall, secure a piece of paper just below. Dust and concrete fragments will not fly around the room.

"To cut a pipe exactly at a right angle, we recommend doing this. Take an even strip of paper and screw it onto the pipe along the sawing line. The plane passing through the edge of the paper will be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe."

"Roll over logs or wooden beams A simple device will help - a piece of motorcycle or bicycle chain, supplemented with a hook on one side and secured to a crowbar on the other side. "

"In order for one person to be able to work with a two-handed saw, we recommend using a simple technique: move the saw handle from the top to the bottom position."

You can cut a piece of slate of the required size with a saw, but it is better and easier to punch holes along the line of the intended cut with a nail at a frequency of 2-3 cm, and then break off the slate on the support.

" The best way glue the tile to the wall: take bitumen, melt it and drop just four drops on the corners of the tile. Stuck on dead. "

When making shaped window casings, it is most convenient to cut shaped holes with a hacksaw with a sharpened blade.

"Making stained glass is a long and difficult task. You can make a quick imitation of stained glass. To do this, take thin slats or rods of vines, glue them to a sheet of glass, and then paint the glass and cover it with varnish."

"If you don't have a dowel at hand, you can make one from a piece of plastic tube. The body of a ballpoint pen can also be suitable for this. Having sawed off a piece of the required length, make a longitudinal cut, about halfway, and the dowel is ready."

"It is known how difficult it is to hang a door when working alone. But just shorten the bottom pin by 2-3 mm and the work will become much easier."

"A very durable, non-shrinking and fairly waterproof putty is made from bustylate mixed with any powder - chalk, gypsum, cement!, sawdust, etc."

"If you need to screw a screw into the end of a particle board, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with Moment glue (not epoxy!), screw the screw in a day later. The board does not delaminate. However, the resulting connection can only be placed under load through day. "

"Attach portraits, photographs, paintings to wooden frames It is more convenient to work with glass not with nails, but with the help of pushpins bent at right angles. The buttons are gently pressed with a screwdriver. Compared to nails, the risk of splitting thin frames is reduced to a minimum. "

"It is not so easy to screw a screw into hard wood. If you poke a hole for the screw with an awl, and rub the screw itself generously with soap, then after such an operation the work will go like clockwork."

To save time, the edge of the wallpaper can be trimmed with a sharp knife without unrolling the roll. To do this, you must first align the end of the roll and draw the edge border on the outside with a simple pencil. Working with a knife, the roll must be gradually turned in the direction of rolling.

To carry large sheets of plywood, glass or thin iron at home, it is convenient to use a wire holder with three hooks at the bottom and a handle at the top.

IF you need to saw a round stick into the distance, this work is most conveniently done using a template. It is made of a metal tube with a groove in the middle. The diameter is chosen so that the template slides freely along the stick.

It will be better and easier to work with a hacksaw if in the middle part you increase the height of the teeth by 1/3.

If on the front of the machine bow saw attach a load weighing about a kilogram, then the work will become easier. The load must be made removable so that the saw can be used to perform other work.

"A wax-like coating can be obtained by painting the surface with diluted PVA glue. To obtain desired color, you need to dilute the glue with water tinted with watercolors. "

"Make a cover for the blade an ax is easier simple. Take a piece of rubber tube, cut it lengthwise and put it on the blade. It is protected from slipping off by a ring cut from old car mobile camera. "

" Avoid using clamps when gluing wooden frames A laundry cord will help. You should put four short loops on the corners of the frame and two long ones to tighten the frames diagonally. The angles are adjusted using sticks that twist the middle loops. "

"How to silence a creaking floorboard? Between the floorboards you need to drill a hole at an angle of 45° with a diameter of 6-8 mm, drive a wooden pin into it, lubricated with wood glue, cut off the protruding end with a chisel and putty on the floor surface."

" To make it easier to sand a floor covered with varnish or paint, iron it through damp cloth- and work becomes easier. "

"Slight rotting on wood can be eliminated as follows: the affected wood is removed from the healthy layer, and then soaked in a 10% formaldehyde solution. After drying, the area is puttied and painted over."

" Door hinges they will not creak if they are lubricated in time - this is a long-known rule. But you can do without lubrication. To do this, you need to make a washer from a polyethylene cork and put it on the hinge pin. "

"A door latch that has failed due to a broken spring can be repaired as follows: the role of the spring can be successfully performed by a piece of rubber tube with a diameter of 15 mm or a piece of elastic rubber installed between the bolt and the latch body."

We offer a simple device for fixing the window frame in open position: a wooden or plastic plate in which a number of holes are drilled for the latch. The plate is attached to window box with a screw.

"Cut to sheet material big hole can be done in a simple way: clamp a nail in a vice (it will serve as an axis) and a piece of a drill (this will serve as a cutter). The circle is cut by rotating the sheet around its axis. "

02.12.2012, 21:08

Dear forum members, I need advice. For the winter, the roof remains under 9mm OSB. The house is made of gas silicate, there is a rafter covered with a Eurovent membrane, covered with a counter-lattice, lathing with a pitch of 30 cm. On top of 9mm OSB. A valley carpet is partially laid, the roof is accordingly not insulated and the house is not heated. The roofers, having received half the money for the entire turnkey roof, refused to carry out further work, citing bad weather.
Help me make the right decision.
1 Cover the roof with cellophane nailed down with slats (there are fears that moisture from the OSB under the unventilated cellophane will destroy the OSB)
2 Cover the roof with some inexpensive membrane that allows air to pass through and retains water.
3 Bring in a new team and cover with flexible tiles until the snow and frosts are finished (the confusing thing is that the base of the OSB is wet and under the sealed tiles it will trample and become deformed, then collapse)
4 Leave everything as is. But no one I know has experience with how uncovered OSB survives.
Old roofers say to wait for spring and not cover with anything, new brigade-they really need work, they say that you can put it on wet and down to -5 below zero with a hairdryer.
I would like to hear the objective opinion of a disinterested specialist, thanks in advance

Good afternoon
We are building a frame house, it is covered with OSB boards, there is a roof - corrugated sheets, it will go into winter in this form. During the summer, after several rains, the OSB delaminated in some places. Is it possible to cover the walls with windproof film for the future ventilated façade for the winter and will it not lose its properties by spring? And what material is better to take: Izospan A, AD? The facade will be a blockhouse.

It is possible to cover an unprotected façade with windproof film, but this will not fully solve the problem of preserving OSB. The fact is that the windproof membrane is designed to withstand the impact of individual drops, which are the result of condensation on the roofing. Good slanting rain, downpour, wet snow is beyond its strength, the windproof membrane will “cry” from the inside. Undoubtedly, wind protection will reduce the wetting of the OSB, but will not completely eliminate it.

A windproof membrane is a good thing when it is covered with exterior finishing

OSB-3 boards, which will most likely cover the frame of your house, can only be called moisture resistant with a stretch. And then we can talk about their resistance to moisture only in relation to chipboard, fiberboard, OSB-1 and OSB-2, which quickly deteriorate under the influence of water. OSB-3 is not intended for use as an enclosing wall material without subsequent finishing, unlike, for example, cement-bonded particle boards (CSP). By the way, in Canada and the USA, where frame technologies came to us, to decorate decent houses that should last a long time, they use waterproof plywood, particle boards are the lot of the poorest.

OSB is not a completely waterproof material; it will inevitably deteriorate if exposed to moisture for a long time.

In our opinion, the following options are possible for temporary protection of an unfinished facade from precipitation:

Stretch the windproof membrane Izospan A (18 RUR/m2) over the vertical sheathing, use a block 4-5 cm thick. The film is quite weak, it is not a fact that it will successfully survive the winter and will not be torn by the winds.
Use Izospan AM (24 rubles/m2) or Izospan AS (35 rubles/m2). Three-layer wind protection is stronger, less permeable to water vapor, but three times more water-resistant, which means it will get wet less. Under the finishing (blockhouse) it could be stretched without lathing, directly over the slabs. But in your case, a ventilated gap and sheathing are needed. It is necessary to ensure free flow of air, the gap should be at the bottom and at the top, under the roof. Option #2 is preferable.
Stretching any cheaper vapor-waterproofing material over the sheathing while maintaining ventilation: roofing felt, reinforced construction vapor barrier, thick polyethylene film for greenhouses (enough for one season). When covering the facade, the waterproofing will have to be removed.

While there is no finishing, polyethylene film, with or without reinforcement, can be used as temporary protection

The right decision would still be to tighten up with finances and finish the exterior finishing by the fall, covering the façade with a blockhouse along a vertical sheathing. In the end, it will be cheaper, because the OSB boards themselves can serve as wind protection if they are carefully fitted. You won't have to spend money on film.

The correct solution for the “puff pastry” of a frame wall. If the OSB boards fit well and the insulation is completely closed, they will also serve as wind insulation. There is no need to spend money on an additional membrane.

18.01.2015, 11:46

OSB for winter

Planned bitumen shingles, we will put it ourselves. We obviously won’t be able to finish the roof this year. Manufacturers strongly recommend OSB-type slab bases for soft roofing. Is it possible for builders who will be making a roof to immediately order an OSB coating, and roofing felt on top for protection, or will the OSB under the roofing felt not survive the winter well?

18.01.2015, 21:30
avlan
Just like my case.
Last fall, I covered the roof with OSB slabs, and laid roofing felt on top, which was secured with screws with slats. Otherwise it may be torn off by the wind.
In the spring, the slats were unscrewed and the roofing material was removed. The slabs have not changed in appearance. I also installed the flexible tiles myself. I spent my vacation, but laid about 200 squares of flexible tiles. The roofing material was removed as the tiles were laid, so that the slab would not remain open for a long time.
By the way, I screwed the tiles onto self-tapping screws with a press washer. It took longer than with rough nails (as TechnoNIKOL recommends), but with self-installation it is easier to dose the degree of pressure. You will hit the nail harder, especially in the heat, when the tiles soften greatly and the head of the nail sinks deeply into the tiles. The self-tapping screw can be tightened accurately. A screwdriver allows a non-professional to correct the position of the screw if something happens. And if you hammer in a nail, then that’s it.
19.01.2015, 13:27
Nebraska
Thanks for the answer. Will it be possible to contact you for advice if there are problems during the installation of the roof?
19.01.2015, 14:02
igorPNZ
Of course, the roof material has already been chosen, but have you considered the option of putting more normal material on the roof, and not “upgraded roofing felt”, which is soft tiles and other *dulins? Maybe you won’t need OSB and it will be possible to cover the roof this year?
19.01.2015, 14:32
SadMan
igorPNZ, what do you mean by more normal material? For example, I am also planning soft tiles. I don’t want slate, I don’t want anything metal either. Natural tiles are not affordable. What remains?
19.01.2015, 15:33
igorPNZ
Of course, a lot depends on the place WHERE the house is. but as a rule, natural tiles are also not a topic. because it is small-piece, and small-piece material in the presence of snow is EVIL.
Why not metal?
According to my concepts, rolled metal laid in a double fold rules. especially if it’s copper;) But since not everyone can afford this cost, and there are also local peculiarities, we agree to galvanizing. IMPORTANT: the thickness of galvanization is MORE than 0.5mm.
But this roof has one drawback: it’s still a hassle to lay it yourself, the “teams” strive to jam along with the standard song “we always do this,” it’s difficult to buy rolled metal, etc....
That's why next option: corrugated sheet. The length of the sheet is the entire slope; it is not worthwhile to gain length from “standard” shorter and easily transportable sheets. for Kroilovo leads to Popadalovo. Profile - no less than 21. Thickness - see above. Laying - according to the "slate" principle, with self-tapping screws into the COMB. with PADS of slats along it. “brigades” of course don’t do that, they don’t need the extra gimmick, after a few years leaks are not their problem, but their bread....
Well, the classic slate roof is not bad. especially the “mythical” one, which is “painted in mass”. True, it has contraindications: hail with egg, low roof angle, and I still wouldn’t make slate without a cold attic.
I wouldn’t consider metal tiles, because it’s not clear how to install them normally. and the manufacturer who compiled his recommendations would like to ask a question: how to replace the gaskets of the self-tapping screws after a few years?
All. The remaining roofs are only for temporary or non-critical roofing. all sorts of roofing felts, etc....
19.01.2015, 17:19
SadMan
Although not applicable to roofing materials, but I know first-hand about the quality of galvanization. Therefore, I consider the likelihood of defects and rust as significant.
Slate doesn't look good. I want aesthetics.
As for soft tiles (if you mean them by the words “all sorts of roofing felts”) - well, don’t go too far, after all, it’s a time-tested material. Even if not in our country.
19.01.2015, 17:35
igorPNZ

The trick is that all bitumen materials behave badly: (the crumb is pulled off by the snow, the bitumen melts and deteriorates under the sun... and if it is also poorly attached to the base, then the canvas itself crawls and is torn by nails at the attachment point.... (fiberglass is a little better with this) one thing is good - the same sun usually melts the holes in the roof, which increases the time before repair..
20.01.2015, 12:19
slava_gold
20.01.2015, 13:02
arhara
Well, I don’t think it’s worth dissuading people from using soft tiles. The material has proven itself to be reliable. And on complex roofs with a lot of tricks - no competition.
20.01.2015, 13:24
igorPNZ
not bars, but slats. wave height. It is not necessary to cover the entire length, the main thing is that it is under the screws. economical aesthetes can generally add cubes. (the question of how to get into them with self-tapping screws is another question.) ;)
complex roofs- it's true. with other material - a lot of gimmor. and “roofing felt” is just right :)
20.01.2015, 14:13
arhara
Soft tiles are not roofing felt, they are made using a different technology, just like corrugated sheets are not made using technology. tin cans. It differs in the quality of the bitumen mixture and the base. The result is an order of magnitude higher reliability and durability. So it is not correct to call it roofing felt. Or at least give examples where soft tiles failed to complete its tasks.
20.01.2015, 16:08
igorPNZ
I had a bunch of them, examples.
Problems - I already wrote which ones.
By the way, roofing material is long-lasting and works quite well, and I’ve also seen it on roofs. he lay well where the GROUND was good and there were no crows. By the way, how do crows feel about soft roofing? They were extremely partial to my roofing felt and pecked at it in vain...
PS: a seam roof is made using can technology :)
14.05.2015, 16:19
Ruslan Kudrin
Yes, there is a question of risk, roofing felt will withstand OSB too. The main thing is that the roofing material is not lifted by the wind or anything else happens to it.
01.06.2015, 23:00
Galubtsov
Moisture-proof OSB is needed; this material is not moisture-resistant in itself.
06.10.2015, 17:14
Dziko
That's it - not in our country.
With the quality of galvanization, everything is complicated. but you can find a good one. besides, I know one house - the roof there is not even made of galvanized steel, but simply made of metal. and painted. has been standing for many years...
And I had roofing felt on my roof for about 5 years until I replaced it with metal... it hardly even leaked :)
The trick is that all bitumen materials behave badly: (the crumb is pulled off by the snow, the bitumen melts and deteriorates under the sun... and if it is also poorly attached to the base, then the canvas itself crawls and is torn by nails at the attachment point.... (fiberglass is a little better with this) one thing is good - the same sun usually melts the holes in the roof, which increases the time before repair..
Sorry, but you are writing nonsense, bitumen materials behave poorly due to oxidation (aging) of the bitumen, as a result it floats, cracks for some time, after which it behaves quite steadily. The problem with cheap bitumen and coatings based on them is that by this point they already lose their ability to withstand precipitation. This is why bitumen for HS is pre-oxidized, or modifiers are added (which is much better). This roofing material never knew what SBS or modified bitumen was, so it lives for at most 5 years.
If you don’t believe me, read the topics about the construction of houses in the USA and Canada, where 90% of all roofing coatings are HS, by the way they easily give a guarantee for 35 years, but in fact they don’t replace them until 50, even the cheapest single-layer tiles last 25 years.
Well, as for the arguments about our exceptionally severe weather, I recommend that you familiarize yourself (maybe the stereotypes will disappear) with long-term weather statistics in the northern states of the USA, northern Canada and Alaska, you can also capture Finland, in all these places there is excellent flexible tiles.
Well, we shouldn’t discount people’s tastes either; for example, I don’t want the roof of my house to look like a piece of some kind of industrial zone, covered with rattling, condensing (this also applies to metal tiles) covered with streaks of rust and poor-looking galvanization.
PS. By the way, I have had one of the cheapest options of Shinglas on my household block for more than 10 years, single-layer tiles, at the moment there are no leaks, no loss of appearance (like they installed yesterday) and the crows have not eaten at the same time: cool:
I’m finishing up the installation at home and from experience I can say that when working alone, the convenience has no equal, although of course it’s tedious.
06.10.2015, 17:44
igorPNZ

One thing on topic - it’s convenient to put......
07.10.2015, 01:04
Dziko
The USA is past, the Finns are closer to the truth, Canada is very good!
But is it used there, and how often is it repaired?
As for the industrial zone and galvanizing, that’s completely beside the point. look at the roofs of old Moscow for example.
Cheap, shabby, soft ones - I've seen them. a lot of.
One thing on topic - it’s convenient to put......
I studied a lot of information about the construction of houses in these countries, construction technologies, for example, frames, in Scandinavia and the North. America is somewhat different, but in both cases, all house designs are the same for all climatic zones and the roof is no different; after its service life expires, a new one is simply laid on top of the old one (without dismantling it), and according to their page standards, this is allowed twice and only then completely dismantling
Maybe in Moscow, of course, galvanizing looks tolerable, I don’t remember, I haven’t been there for a long time, and it was probably installed in old Moscow by old craftsmen with hands made of the right place, no match for the current ones, but in St. Petersburg, with our shitty climate, they constantly change the galvanization and after 3-5 years it already has obvious stains of rye.
I don’t want to claim that HF is the best thing that humanity has come up with, of course, like any other material, it has both pros and cons, this is all to say that you need to be objective, and comparing HF and roofing felt just because bitumen is present in both cases is not correct .
And by the way, about roofing felt. Often there is a desire of people to save money (not very understandable, and the difference in price is not so big) and instead of a normal underlay carpet for a soft roof they try to push in roofing felt, this should not be done, the roofing felt does not stretch, and when the temperature changes (especially in the hot summer) it goes in waves , puffs up and all this will be visible under the tiles after the first good sun, although much smaller and thicker lining carpets are prone to this, it is better to choose thin ones on fiberglass.
07.10.2015, 08:26
arhara
Attachments: 1

Metal vs soft tiles...the battle continues
Part of my fence (on the side of large human traffic) is made of corrugated sheets. It's been 7 years now, and there is not a single place where rust has appeared, it looks like new.
And the soft tiles lay on the roof of the house for 5 years... no complaints either. The crumbs are crumbling, pebbles are visible in the area drain pipes, but from this “bald spots” did not appear anywhere.
Yesterday I took a photo with the first drizzle of this year))

Igor, if you call my roof roofing felt, I’ll hit the spot: D
07.10.2015, 09:34
igorPNZ
advanced roofing felt :)
What is your pipe made of?
What is the service life of a warhead in Canada, for example? What is the service life of the frame?
I don’t have reliable information about how they build in different countries. I only have information about my village :) and I’ve seen enough of everything!
07.10.2015, 10:50
Dziko
advanced roofing felt :)
What is your pipe made of?
What is the service life of a warhead in Canada, for example? What is the service life of the frame?
I don’t have reliable information about how they build in different countries. I only have information about my village :) and I’ve seen enough of everything!
On another resource there is a very sensible topic from professional builder from Canada (I’m not sure if you can post a link to it here, if you want I can drop you a PM) has been building all over the country for more than 20 years, as far as I remember he wrote about the average operational life. The warhead is 35 years old, respectively, more expensive two-layer samples last longer, the most cheap option tiles are about 25 years old.
I haven’t seen any information about the service life of the frame at all, it means that the house was built without violations of technology (and with violations it is very difficult to build there, after each stage of construction a state inspector comes and checks everything, only after that can you build further, otherwise big problems, fines and even demolition if irreparable violations are discovered) should serve for an unlimited time, but nevertheless, the companies give a guarantee, of course, not for centuries.
PS. I don’t understand what’s wrong, it’s impossible to write, it skips letters and slows down, while it blinks and underlines everything in red, one message takes 10 minutes, tell me, maybe something needs to be changed in the forum settings or text settings when replying.
IMHO it is logical: usually after 25 years the children leave and are no longer needed big house; the city is developing, where there used to be residential areas, it can grow business center; a young family is unlikely to want to live in a house old building, in which modern goods are not available.
But we don’t live in wild Japan, give us centuries))
07.10.2015, 15:15
Dziko
I don’t know about Canada, but in Japan they told us that the service life of their frames is assumed to be 25-30 years. This is not due to the fact that after this period it will fall apart, but because life cycle people, city life and technology development.
IMHO it is logical: usually after 25 years the children move away and a big house is no longer needed; the city is developing, where there used to be residential areas, a business center may grow; A young family is unlikely to want to live in an old house that does not have modern amenities available.
But we don’t live in wild Japan, give us centuries))
In Japan, this is basically logical, there people live on this piece of land almost like we do on a sixth of the landmass: cool: the cities are all spreading out, by the way, maybe that’s why they mostly build small houses, they still have to demolish them. And in all of America and Canada, the space is endless and the secondary housing market is very developed, which means they don’t really demolish it.
By the way, I came across some funny information about hurricanes (this, of course, applies more to the southern states): during construction, houses made of aerated concrete are connected to the foundation with the upper armored belt. with studs and all this plus mortgages, they secure the roof, otherwise the insurance companies refuse to enter into contracts, that is, if the house flies away, it will only be with the foundation: green: Maybe, of course, these are new trends and we also practice this, but building the 1st floor out of aerated concrete seems I have studied everything about this matter, but have not come across anything like this.
PS. Thanks to everyone for the tips on the problem with the text, now I decided to insert an emoticon and switched to advanced mode, in the end the whole problem disappeared, everything prints fine:grin:
07.10.2015, 16:47
igorPNZ
Well, of course, mortgages are needed for the roof. but about the connection with the foundation - x3. or remortgage, or most likely “vertical reinforcement”. so that the house does not tilt or collapse under a strong lateral load.
But the fact that in the states they build from foam concrete is news to me. I thought there were only frames, at most lined with bricks on the outside for strength...

Oriented strand board (OSB), when used inside a dry room, does not need any additional protection from moisture. IN worst conditions It turns out that the outer cladding of the house is made of this slab. Over time, it darkens not only from rain, but also from solar ultraviolet radiation. Of course, you can cover the slabs with siding or blockhouse, but this is associated with high costs. How to treat OSB boards against moisture is a difficult question. Let's try to answer it.

Is additional processing needed?

The moisture resistance of oriented strand boards is characterized by the amount of thickness swelling during the day. According to this parameter, according to the American standard PS 2, European EN-300 and Russian GOST 10632-89, slabs are divided into 4 types (see table).

Let us recall that for external cladding In buildings, only OSB-3 and OSB-4 boards are allowed.

If the constructed structure is to be finished somehow, then during construction the OSB boards lie on the construction site in bundles. Even after one rain, the top few sheets swell almost one and a half times. They will remain like this after drying. The remaining sheets swell at the ends. By the way, to avoid this, the ends of North American products are painted with blood-red impregnation.

There is an opinion among some builders that OSB boards do not require additional processing, since they are already impregnated with resins, waxed, and varnished. Experience shows that after 2-3 years they appearance loses its original freshness, they darken, in some places individual chips bulge, joints protrude sloppily.

Therefore, additional hydrophobic treatment will not be superfluous, especially if it is the facade of a residential building without any cladding. Let's consider how to treat OSB boards from moisture.

1. Transparent impregnations

The cheapest treatment option is water-repellent colorless impregnations. There are no special solutions for OSB. You can use any wood products, with the exception of those prepared on water based. Examples of such compositions:

Elcon silicone-based antiseptic impregnation for wood. Designed for long-lasting protection wooden structures from weathering, rotting, mold. Scope of application: for interior and exterior work. Forms a water-repellent film, non-toxic, allows the wood to “breathe”.
Innovative domestic hydrophobizing composition NEOGARD-Tree-40 based on organosilicon oligomers. Designed to impart water-repellent properties to products made of wood and wood-based materials: plywood, chipboard, fiberboard. Water absorption for chipboard is reduced by 15 - 25 times. Obviously, it is also suitable for OSB. Does not change the natural color of the material, the protective properties remain for at least 5 years.

The most suitable for protecting wood (and OSB) from moisture is the so-called yacht varnish on a urethane-alkyd or alkyd-urethane basis. Some of the popular brands:

Tikkurila UNIKA SUPER (Finland). This brand is a leader in resistance to impacts external environment, immunity to ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes.
Marshall protex (Türkiye). Creates a plastic surface film.
Marshall Protex Yat Vernik. It has increased wear and moisture resistance.
PARADE (Russia). Keeps fresh for a long time.
Belinka Yacht (Russia). It has dirt- and water-repellent properties, emphasizing the texture of wood materials.
Antiseptic varnish for wood “Drevolak” on acrylic base with added wax (Russia). Along with antiseptic and antibacterial effect successfully protects wood from moisture.

Since OSB is a wood processing product, then paints and varnishes(LMB) the same ones can be used for them:

Oil paints. Due to the presence of polymer resins in OSB, drying oil-based paints do not always adhere well to the surface being painted. For better adhesion to the base, it is recommended to perform double priming with intermediate putty before painting. Despite this, oil-based coatings are exposed to ultraviolet radiation, temperature changes and atmospheric precipitation prone to fading, cracking, even peeling. We can recommend paint based on natural and modified oil PINOTEX WOOD OIL SPRAY, which has good resistance to external factors.
Alkyd paints match better chipboards, since they contain alkyd resin, as a product of the chemical interaction of natural oils with acids. Their adhesion is higher compared to oil-based paints, they dry faster and resist atmospheric influences more successfully.
Acrylic compositions, being inexpensive and durable to use, have an optimal balance of qualities and are most in demand for painting wood. In addition, they are available in a wide range of colors.

Attention: pre-treat a small surface in an inconspicuous place to ensure that the material does not swell when exposed to the aqueous acrylic suspension.

In conclusion, we can say that the question: how to treat OSB boards against moisture is difficult to answer unequivocally. Firstly: it depends on whether you want to emphasize the texture of the slab with a transparent solution or, conversely, apply a covering (opaque) coating. Secondly: – on the financial capabilities and aesthetic ideas of the developer.