From 25 USD - work 1m2. With material from - 150 USD 1m3 .

Log house "in the saddle"

Any construction always takes a lot of time and effort, but if construction starts from scratch, then it also takes money. First of all, the developer must choose the type of log house, which will subsequently influence the entire process of development and operation. One of the most modern and practical log houses can be considered a “saddle” log house.

The “saddle” log house has many similarities with the “Canadian log house”. From the outside, it is almost impossible to distinguish two types of log house, since all the differences lie inside the log house, in the technological structure.

Features of the log house “in the saddle”

As in the “Canadian felling”, this log house has a remainder of approximately 20 centimeters, which is exactly how far the end of the log extends beyond the perimeter of the corner. The developer also needs to recalculate the building material by 10%, as when choosing any log house with the remainder.

The “Canadian log house” has a trapezoidal bowl and a tenon, as in a “tail-tail” log house. This is the main difference from the “saddle” log house, which is considered a simplified version of the “Canadian log house”. Two components are completely absent here: a tenon and a groove for it, which is why the manufacturing process and the installation process have become much simpler and faster. It was this factor that affected the quality of the log house and its service life.

Advantages and disadvantages of a log house “in the saddle”

This type of log frame with a remainder has increased strength and stability. The trapezoidal shape of the log house creates a technical gap when connecting the unit. Subsequently, such fastening only becomes stronger, since the diameter of the lower log decreases during the drying process, and the bowl fits more tightly to the lower log. This type of log house ensures tightness and strength.

The main disadvantage is the ventilation of the corner. Due to more simple way manufacturing, this type of log house begins to blow through, as it lends itself to deformation during the drying process. Although the strength of the structure only increases, the airflow only increases, so for the construction of your own bathhouse it is not recommended to choose a log house “in the saddle”. The bathhouse requires complete thermal insulation, but a log house “into the saddle” cannot provide it. If the building has already been built, then you need to remember that over time the gaps will require caulking.

When choosing one, the developer must take into account not only the price category of the building material, but also the quality, strength and thermal insulation.

We also do:

Cutting logs from logs with residue Log cutting "in oblo" Log cutting "in a hurry" Cutting logs “into a bowl” Cutting log houses "in the tail" Log cutting Felling of log houses in a clapper with a cut "Canadian felling" of log houses “Norwegian felling” of log houses “Swedish cutting” of log houses Cutting log houses from rounded logs

The strength and thermal engineering of a wooden structure largely depend on the type of corner notch. The builders of old Slavic settlements did not keep the options for its manufacture a secret. Thanks to their oral master classes, proven folk technologies. Carpentry traditions were significantly enriched by foreign experience and the introduction of useful improvements. A significant amount of knowledge has been accumulated. Now in wood construction Various methods of cutting timber and logs are used, one of which will be used to build your own bathhouse.

Two “indigenous” families of cutters

The fundamental criterion for dividing cutting methods into two large classes is the presence or absence of bypasses. This is what folk craftsmen called the remains of logs, and then timber, extending at the ends beyond the contour of the wooden structure. Based on this indicator, in the technologies for constructing log houses, I distinguish two main cutting schemes:

“Into the bowl”, according to which the corners are cut out with the remainder. This is the most common method, which has a lot of variations of domestic and foreign origin. The downside of the nodal bowls is the significant consumption of material that is not cheap at all, but the plus is the excellent thermal insulation of the corner. And the buildings cut into a bowl look very impressive.
“In the paw” or simply “without a trace”. According to it, the outline of the building is built clearly according to the plan. With the same material consumption as the previous technology, the internal dimensions of the structure are larger. Corners cut into paws require obligatory lining, otherwise they will blow out and get wet. Log houses built without bypasses can be covered with clapboard, block house, plastered, faced with brick or sandwich panels. Unlike options with bowls, all finishing directions are applicable here, and sometimes even recommended.

One of the fundamental rules is that all corner connections must be made according to a single pattern. Since the cutting of timber and log-bearing walls was carried out according to the “bowl” scheme, then the partitions will need to be cut in exactly the same way. Please note right away that for corner joints in log crowns, all existing methods. But a bathhouse made of timber is cut mainly into the claw, but occasionally a number of bowl-shaped types are also used.

Both classes of corner notches have become overgrown with an impressive number of daughter subtypes, differing in manufacturing complexity and thermal properties. Choice the best way define:

performer experience;
climatic specificity of the area;
the period preferred for taking bath procedures.

To assemble the crowns of a country bathhouse, which is used only in the summer, the simplest cutting methods are suitable. Especially if the owner is going to build a bathhouse on his summer cottage on his own. The customer of a team of craftsmen who needs a warm building for year-round use should not deny himself the choice of a complex technological scheme. Information about the differences and features of cuttings will help both the independent contractor and the prudent employer of builders, who wants to spend money well, to make a reasonable choice.

Options for cutting with residue

The most accessible method for making a corner unit for a novice carpenter is cutting into a bowl, i.e. with the rest of the log at the end. In the “cup” class there are simple and super complex technologies. In wooden construction, it is important to understand: what is easier to cut will heat and last less. However, without carpentry skills and knowledge of this art, it is better not to undertake the manufacture of complex structural recesses.

Algorithm for making a simple bowl

To cut into a simple cup, two notches in the shape of semi-cylinders and a longitudinal inter-crown groove, called a lunar groove, are selected on the sides of the log. All recesses in the log are made from above, which is very convenient for the master, but not good for the walls. Moisture easily seeps into the holes facing the sky and dust gets in through the joints, which have lost their density due to shrinkage. Therefore, simple bowls need constant updating of the caulk.

The owner of rounded material does not need to suffer with preliminary preparation. Calibrated logs have a uniform size and often have mounting grooves already selected. Cylinder manufacturers can even make corner recesses if they receive an order and a clear understanding project documentation. The buyer of sawn timber will have to carry out processing: debark, dry, select a longitudinal moon-shaped furrow for reliable joining of the crowns, and then begin cutting into a bowl.

Sequence of work for making a simple bowl:

We will place the debarked log in its appropriate place in the log house for marking.
If the longitudinal inter-crown groove has not yet been made, on the thin end of the lower log, in the upper part of which the notches are to be made, draw a line equal to the width of the future groove.
Let's spread the legs factory or homemade trait the width of the marked installation groove.
Let's place a line with the legs to the humps of the log laid in the log house and the upper fellow being tried on it, then with sharp legs we will scratch the lines on the lower log with the exact profile of the upper element, “edging” the log on all sides.
Having completed marking the groove, we spread the legs of the line to a distance equal to half the average radius of the log laid on top.
Let us again attach the legs of the drawing carpentry tool to the one being tried on and to the lower log lying across it in order to outline the semi-cylinders of future corner notches.
Let's remove the top element of the frame being tried on, and make cuts on the lower log that do not reach the depth of the drawn recesses of 7-10mm.
We use an ax to select the marked recesses and finish the surface with sherhebel.

The method for making a corner joint, based on the technique of cutting a log house into a bowl with a tenon, is presented in the video:

There is not much difference in the sequence of actions. You can cut the groove first, then the corner recesses, or reverse order. The main thing is that all three structural components are precisely hewn. You will have to puff anyway: you will need to try on and cut off the excess if the top log does not “fit” into the frame. Therefore, there is no need to rush with the final selection to the scratched lines. It is advisable to gradually refine the finishing process so that too large samples do not spoil the material. In the old days, for the first time, the clean cut mounting recesses were smeared with tar and the top element was laid on it. The muddy marks indicated where further trimming needed to be done.

Child bowl variants

Cutting a log into a bowl attracts inexperienced performers due to its simplicity and relatively low labor costs. However, without additional locking elements, it does not hold heat well. This is quite acceptable for the construction of a summer bathhouse. To build a warmer building, it is better to supplement the lock assembly with a side section. The cutting method will become more complicated, but heating technology will improve.

The list of closest “relatives” of the technology of cutting into a bowl includes:

Cutting in the ohlupen (aka in the ohlupen), which is a mirror image of the bowl. This method also called Siberian felling. It differs in that the corner locks and moon groove are simply turned down. The lower orientation of the recesses prevents the penetration of moisture and dust into the joints, so the insulation does not deteriorate and the log house does not get wet.
Bowl with ledge. It appeared as a result of popular improvement of the methods of okhlop and oblo, according to which cuttings are made either from above or from below the log. Cutting a bowl with a protrusion allows you to place a longitudinal groove at the bottom and corner grooves at the top, or do the opposite. Because a log with an inter-crown groove will need to be placed in the bowl; the configuration of the notch cannot still be semi-cylindrical. Therefore, a rounded protrusion appeared in the bowl, repeating the radius of the longitudinal mounting groove.
Cutting in the okhryap. It consists in the formation of two equivalent rectangular cuttings on the upper and lower sides. The option is simpler than simple, but suitable only for the construction of outbuildings.
A blow with a cut. In order to optimize the strength and thermal insulation of the corner, a cut is left in the bowl - this is an unselected quarter in the bowl on the inside of the corner. For docking, you will also need a counter notch in the mating log.
Cutting into a fat tail. It differs from a simple bowl by the presence of an additional spike in the recess, which increases the strength of the corner unit. The thorn is called fat tail or darkness. He gave the name to the method and improved the thermal properties of the log wall. You can orient the cut into the fat tail in both traditional directions. The bowl is initially cut to half its height, then a tenon is cut out. They transfer the dimensions of the formed tenon to the mating log without any special tricks: they roll it onto the frame and mark with notches where the counter groove needs to be cut.

Two methods of cutting a log house into a hook are considered to be quite demanding in relation to the skill and experience of the performer. The first of them predetermines the cutting of half of the bowl, and the remaining, uncut half must clearly fit into the semicircular cutting of the mating log. The second technology resembles a bowl with a notch, but the logs are hewn to one edge, and the hewn side is turned inside the building. When cutting with a hook, the maximum power of the log is maintained, resulting in warm and reliable corners.

This is how cutting with a simple hook is done:

Overseas cutting technologies with residue

Fundamentally, the Canadian and Swedish logging schemes are similar to the Siberian “in the cold” technique. Only the corner grooves and recesses for them do not have a round cross-section, but a trapezoidal configuration. This is a significant plus, because... When shrinking, Slavic bowls expand, which is why they require periodic caulking. The Canadian and Swedish notch, after shrinking, fits tightly onto the log hewn under it. There are no gaps left at all, and over the years the joint also spontaneously compacts.

Their execution techniques are different. The external ones can be distinguished by the partially hewn “Canadian” logs in the castle area and the nice “Swedish” crossovers sharpened into six edges. Canadian technology has a good simplified successor - cutting into the saddle.

An extremely demanding aspect of all cutting schemes with a remainder is precisely the length of the part of the log protruding beyond the contour of the building. The bypass cannot be made too short, otherwise it will break off. To ensure that the desire to save money does not lead to an emergency condition of the log house, GOST number 30974-2002 clearly regulates the maximum distances: from the end of the log to the center of the cut-in bowl there must be at least 1.4 times the diameter of the log being processed.

Video demonstration of Norwegian cutting:

Methods for cutting without residue

There are significantly fewer options for chopping log cabins into the claw than methods with a bowl. The reason for their appearance was not economic considerations, but the desire to convert a wooden tower into a luxurious palace by finishing it. The corners cut into the paw are significantly colder. The capillaries at the ends are open, so it is strongly recommended that the outer side of the corner joints in the paw be sewn up with at least boards.

For the construction of a log house using the “paw-on” technique, a timber carriage is suitable - a log cut into two vertical edges on opposite sides. Rounding and ordinary round timber with vertical left and right edges – “blocks” – are also suitable. Length of the dummy, i.e. the length of the side hem is equal to the largest diameter of the material used. The width of the block, i.e. the distance between the notches is equal to 2/3 or 3/4 of the diameter of the top of the thinnest log in the purchased batch. It is this that needs to be identified first and “duped” as a standard for other logs, so that during the work it is not discovered that part of the material does not fit the size of the planned paw. By the way, logs can be hewn out on all the logs at once, and then start making paws of the chosen type.

General instructions for making paws

The straight paw is the most simple circuit in the “paw” class, so you can try to make it yourself. All the lines of the upcoming hew are strictly vertical and horizontal. To make the corner less blown, the paw can be supplemented with an undercut by cutting out this structural addition from the inside of the corner. The most reliable connection in the class is considered to be an oblique foot, because the inclined planes do not allow the elements of the log house to turn out and diligently retain heat.

All variations are chopped in the same sequence:

The block prepared for processing is again cut off from above and below. The depth of the notches should be equal to the width of the block. As a result, we get a parallelogram with one imaginary side and a square section turned towards us;
We draw the end of the parallelogram into 8 equal horizontal parts.
According to the selected type of paw and the table dimensions, mark and connect the points on the drawn plane;
Mark the lines of future cuts with the required slopes of the planes and undercuts, if it is decided that they should be;
Carefully remove the excess located behind the markings and use the first finished paw to make a template for transferring the dimensions to the next logs.

There is no need to independently calculate the dimensions of the oblique paws; they are available in the tables. Masters cut them slowly and meticulously. The lunar groove is scratched out along the logs laid in the log house, spreading the legs of the feature by the amount of the identified gap.

Corner notches in timber

Forming a round joint in a beam is difficult, and it is not necessary, because special methods have been developed for joining timber crowns. Based on the paws, identical variants with very similar names were created: okhryap, half-tree, fat tail.

However, timber has its own specific methods and types of corner joints using inserted or sawn tenons in the material. According to the tradition of wooden architecture, the walls are “pierced” with dowels - vertical wooden nails 25-30 cm in diameter and a height equal to 0.8 of the height of the log house. It should be remembered that a vertical gap must be left between the elements of any connection in a cobblestone and log house to compensate for standard shrinkage subsequent to construction. In bowls and claws the maximum gap is 0.5 cm, in the mounting longitudinal grooves 1.0 cm.

We have described common, but not all existing cutting schemes. The difference in the methods of their implementation and in heating engineering will tell you which is better to choose. Good luck!

I’ll simply say that if it is important for you that there is a Russian bowl in the log house, then you need to cut “in the cloud”, be sure to use a lock in the bowl to prevent blowing.

Yes, it is more labor-intensive and more expensive, which means, alas, few people order it and few people get their hands on this type of cutting.

Therefore, 90% of Russian bowls in Russia are cut with an ordinary round bowl, which is then blown and requires caulking. Essentially repeating the technology of rounded logs...

If practicality is important to you, then nothing better has been invented to date than a Canadian bowl on a round log or a Norwegian bowl on a carriage (beam). This type of bowl has been formed over many centuries and today is presented as a clear technology that has its own standard in Europe (ILBA). In Russia, over the past ten years, about 70% of carpenters have mastered and successfully used both Canadian and Norwegian cutting.

So let's see how these fellings differ from each other in practical and aesthetic terms?

THE RUSSIAN BOWL IS OURS!

In the region(bowl in the lower log) - a type of felling that was used in the 16th-17th century in Russian wooden architecture. Labor costs in in this case less, but the performance qualities of such a connection are low. Firstly, the orientation of the bowl upward allows moisture to get inside the bowl, which leads to the insulation getting wet, the same applies to the groove between the logs. Secondly, the inner, flat surface of the bowl, without any transverse, locking elements, is easily blown, especially after the logs have shrunk and dried out and requires caulking. Nowadays no one cuts like that anymore.

In the heat of the moment(the bowl is selected at the bottom of the log) - the most popular type of cutting today, which is offered by most companies. The bowl is better protected from precipitation, however, when the bowl dries out, cracks appear, caulking is required, the bowl is blown out due to the lack of a lock, as when cutting “in the tail” (or a bowl with a notch).

Bowl with ledge - an intermediate and rare option, when a longitudinal groove and a bowl are cut out from opposite sides of the log.

"In the fat tail"

"To the brink"

In a huff. When chopping into an okhryap, two identical notches are made on both sides of the log, both on the top and bottom. The shape of the recesses in this case is no longer round, but rectangular, with a flat bottom and slightly rounded sides, repeating the radius of the next log. Okhryap cutting is quite simple to manufacture, but is not recommended for permanent residences, since the connection is not tight enough. Historically, this type felling was used in the construction of outbuildings.

Oblo - oblop with a cut. In this cutting method, an unselected quarter remains inside the round bowl - cut. The bowl can be directed either up or down. On the opposite side of the log, a recess is selected in the shape of a notch. The cut in the bowl is arranged from the side internal corner. A bowl with a cut turns out to be more durable and protected from through blowing, but is more labor-intensive to make, which is why it is quite rare.

Hook cutting. Getting to the description of this connection, it should be noted that in specialized literature and in practice, a hook connection can be called two completely different designs corner notches. For this reason we will describe both. The first version of the hook design is a bowl, which is selected only to the middle of the log (on one side of the axis of the log). In the upper part of the log, a semicircular groove is selected along the unselected remainder of the bowl. Thanks to this joint configuration, the corner is completely closed from through blowing, unlike most of the other cuts. Therefore, the hook connection is very warm and durable. At the same time, connecting into a hook is very labor-intensive.

The second option for cutting with a hook is notable for the fact that it involves chiseling (flaking) the logs from the inside and obtaining right angle with smooth internal walls. The design of this castle is partly similar to the bowl with a notch described above. The difference lies in the fact that the log is hemmed from the inside by about a quarter of the diameter of the log, and the tenon-cut is made equal in length to the size of the hem. When assembling the lock, the tenon hooks onto the rough side of the log, giving the joint additional strength, which is how it gets its name - a hook.

This is the most competent and practical type of Russian cutting!

In life it looks like this:

Photo: carpenter A. Karasev, Novosibirsk

HALF CARRIER. HAND PULLING.

The log house is possible “finish it” even after its assembly, at the stage of grinding and finishing work. This results in a very beautiful and flexible appearance of the corner. This is an old and traditional way.

Disadvantages of the Russian bowl that you are not aware of.

The photo shows a cut into a Russian cedar bowl with a diameter of 40 cm. 2 years after the shrinkage of the log house, such cracks opened everywhere, although at the time of cutting it was cut down perfectly! The shrinkage of a 40 cm log will ultimately be 7-10% - this is about 4 cm + shrinkage of the bowl itself.

Three years later, at 35 diameter, the longitudinal groove + crack in the bowl opened, which required additional unsightly caulking.

Therefore, the only way to hide the terrible gaps, protruding moss (or jute) is to close them with rope or sealant.

CUTTING IN THE PAW

Oblique paw Much more difficult option connection is cut in an oblique paw. The shape of the paw in this case is a trapezoidal shape with an inclination in two planes. Because of its characteristic shape, it received the name “swallowtail”. Thanks to this configuration, the angle is much stronger than the “straight paw”, but requires highly qualified craftsmen and is very labor-intensive.

The oblique paw also has a more advanced version with a spike, which further increases its strength. When cutting into an oblique foot, after the first one is ready, a template made of plywood or similar material is removed from it and used to mark all the other ends.

CANADIAN BOWL ON A ROUND LOG

Canadian bowl

(America) Saddle cutting (a type

Russian bowl)

Canadian cabin has some common features with the fat tail cut, but at the same time it is noticeably different, primarily in shape. If the Russian bowl is round, then the Canadian one has trapezoidal shape and is selected at the bottom of the log. A spike is left inside the bowl, just like when chopping into a fat tail. On the upper side of the log, inclined edges are made, repeating the profile of the bowl of the overlying log and the groove for the tenon. Canadian bowl, at high-quality manufacturing It turns out durable, airtight and accordingly warm. But the most important advantage of the Canadian castle in front of the round bowl is contained in its "behavior"

The fact is that in a log house with round bowls, as the logs dry out and shrink log diameter decreases, and the parameters of the bowl change slightly. As a result, cracks form in the corners, which require additional caulking. In turn, the inclined edges of the Canadian lock, during the shrinkage process, self-jam and maintain the tightness of the notch, preventing the formation of cracks!

It should, however, be borne in mind that the Canadian lock is not just a special form of lock, but a whole set of necessary technological nuances, which, only if they are of high quality, ensure the tightness of the structure for a long time.

One of the characteristic features of Canadian logging is the absence of gaps between the logs, not only in the new log house, but also after its drying and shrinkage, which allows, after laying the insulation into the crowns Do not re-caulk at all.

A simplified version of the Canadian tenon logging is Russian cutting into the saddle. The only difference between this cutting method is the absence of a tenon inside the bowl and a corresponding groove in the upper part of the log. Everything else looks exactly the same as in a regular Canadian castle.

The Canadian bowl also has many variations. It depends on the taste and skill of the carpenter when working with edges. The photographs show how different the plastic corners are made by different craftsmen.

Canadian bowl with top edging

(classic version)

Photo. Canada.

Canadian bowl with top and bottom edges

(diamond bowl)

Photo Canada.

Click on photo to enlarge!

Diamond groove. Oblique cuts.

Pine dia. 35-40 cm.

Gaps are specially left between the logs for further shrinkage.

Diamond groove.

Parallel cuts.

CANADIAN. HALF CARRIER.

On the Canadian bowl, the carriage for the internal walls can be made directly during the cutting process.

In this case, the external walls will round, and internal even! The ends of the cuts will also be round!

CARRIAGE. CUT INTO NORWEGIAN BOWL.

Carriage- this is a log, hewn from both sides to even side planes. The walls made from the carriage are smooth and have a characteristic aesthetics, and are also convenient for additional interior decoration.

The history of the carriage begins in Scandinavia. In ancient times, the cut side parts of a log, called a slab, were used to make floors and roofs. Thus, significant wood savings were achieved.

When building houses from gun carriages, a special corner connection is used - "Norwegian castle". Its difference is high strength, tightness and rigid fixation of the timber in the corners. At the same time, over time, during the shrinkage process, the strength of the log house only increases. This is due to the wedge-shaped design of the lock, which ensures self-jamming of the beams under their own weight. At the same time, the “Norwegian castle” is one of the most labor-intensive connections and requires high precision manufacturing.

Corner notches are the basis of the construction of the walls of wooden houses. Corner joints are of two types - without remainder (into the paw) and with remainder (into the bowl, into the oblo).

Types of corner chopped joints

Corner notches are the basis of the construction of the walls of wooden houses. Corner joints are of two types - without remainder (into the paw) and with remainder (into the bowl, into the oblo). Each of the mentioned types of cabins, in turn, has different design options, which differ in the complexity of manufacturing, details and efficiency.

Corner chopped joints with a remainder (release) are distinguished by the protruding ends of the logs at the corners of the log house. With this construction method, the size of the room will be slightly smaller than the length of the logs, but such a corner design is the most durable and well protected from precipitation and wind, and has a more beautiful aesthetic appearance. The integrity and strength of the entire structure depends on the quality of the felling. wooden house, thermal qualities and aesthetics.

Cuttings with residue or release

Felling in the oblo

The leading method of cutting with residue in terms of simplicity and considered one of the oldest in Russian wooden architecture. Another method of chopping is called chopping into a bowl. An inter-crown longitudinal groove (lunar groove) and a special bowl are created in the lower log - a semicircular cavity, into which a transverse log is placed on top. This method is the least labor-intensive, since the log does not have to be turned over - all necessary operations are carried out in the upper part of the log. But, it is worth considering that such a connection cannot boast of high performance properties. Firstly, the design, designed with the bowl up, is poorly protected from atmospheric influences - moisture easily gets into the bowl, due to which the insulation gets wet and rots over the years. The same situation is observed with the groove between the logs. Secondly, the flat inner plane of the bowl, due to the absence of locking or transverse elements, is easily blown by the wind. The situation especially worsens after the logs dry out and shrink, so regular caulking will be necessary.

Cutting in the hole

Cutting into the okhlop is also known as the Siberian bowl or ohlupen. It is an inverted version of the bowl connection. Its design feature is that the inter-crown groove and bowl are now located at the bottom of the upper log. This type of corner connection is more resistant to precipitation. Cutting in the clap requires more labor and skill in execution, in comparison with the above-mentioned chopping in the clap, since the log has to be turned over several times during the fitting process. As practice shows, chopping in the clap can be called chopping in the clap, so it is advisable to clarify everything in detail and discuss in detail with the performers all aspects of the connection - the location of the grooves, bowls and other subtleties.

Cutting into a fat tail

The fat tail cut is distinguished by an improved bowl. A special additional spike called a fat tail is created in the design of the bowl. On the other side of the log, a groove is created into which the tenon of the next log is inserted. This cutting method is notable for the fact that it provides excellent strength and additional sealing of corners, since in this case direct blowing is negated.

When chopping into the fat tail, the bowl can be oriented both up and down. This type of connection is technically much more complex than conventional bowls. However, due to its excellent performance characteristics, fat-tail cutting is widespread. This type of cutting is often called cutting in the area with a notch or with a spike. In fact, this is a completely different type of connection, which is described below.

Hook cutting

When talking about this type of cut-to-hook connection, it is worth noting that in practice and in specialized literature, cut-to-hook can refer to two completely different designs of corner notches. Based on this, we will pay attention to both.

The first option is notable for the fact that the bowl is selected only to the middle of the log (from the axis of the log on one side). A semicircular groove is created from the top side of the log to the unselected remainder of the bowl. Unlike many other notches, thanks to this connection method, the corner is completely protected from through blowing. The hook cutting method is considered very durable and warm. However, it is worth considering that connecting with a hook is a very labor-intensive process and requires great skill.

The second option differs in that it involves cutting off the inside of the logs and achieving a right angle with smooth internal walls. To some extent, the configuration of the joint of this notch resembles the above-mentioned bowl with a notch. The only difference is that from the inside the log is trimmed to a quarter of its diameter, and a tenon-cut is created equal in length to the size of the hem.

Canadian cabin

Canadian cutting, despite having common features with fat tail cutting, differs significantly from it in shape. Unlike the round Russian bowl, the Canadian cutting is trapezoidal in shape. The Canadian bowl is selected from the log at the bottom. Just as when joining a fat tail, in a Canadian cut a spike is left inside the bowl. On the top side of the log, inclined edges are created, repeating the contours of the bowl of the log lying on top and the groove for the tenon. The Canadian bowl is famous for its strength, tightness, and therefore warmth. The most important advantage of the Canadian lock compared to a round bowl is its shrinkage behavior.

In a log house with round bowls, the following situation is observed - as the logs shrink and shrink, their diameter decreases, while the parameters of the bowl remain practically unchanged. This leads to the appearance of cracks in the corners that need to be caulked. But the “cunning” design of the Canadian lock, under the influence of shrinkage, on the contrary, jams even more camo. All this guarantees excellent tightness and absence of cracks.

It is worth noting that Canadian logging involves not only non-standard form lock, but also includes a whole range of technological nuances, which only in the case of impeccable execution, ensure excellent tightness of the structure for many years.

One of the advantages of Canadian logging is the complete absence of gaps between the logs. This characteristic feature observed not only in newly erected log houses, but after their shrinkage and shrinkage. Thanks to this, you only need to put the insulation into the crowns once and never have to think about caulking again.

Cutting into the saddle

Saddle cutting is a simplified method of Canadian cutting with a tenon. The only difference in this option is that a tenon is not made in the bowl and a corresponding groove is not created in the upper part of the log. The rest of the design is similar to the Canadian castle.

Norwegian cabin

Norwegian logging is almost identical to Canadian logging. The only difference between the Canadian and Norwegian deckhouse is the carriage. The Canadian cabin is made from a log, and the Norwegian one is made from a gun carriage. Norwegian cutting is made from a carriage, this is the so-called oval log. Two parallel sides of a log are sawed off or cut down on both sides, which makes the log oval along its entire length. The angle of the lock with ribs and tenon is similar to the Canadian lock. Thanks to the smooth surfaces of the carriage, the walls are smooth, and the volume of the room increases. Appearance The Norwegian log house made from large-sized carriages is very impressive, the unique design of each carriage, the power and color of the house.

Cuttings without residue

Connection in paw

This type of connection has a number of advantages over cuttings with residue. Firstly, material consumption is significantly reduced, which means construction costs are reduced. Secondly, the rooms are more spacious. Thirdly, from the outside the corners look completely straight. However, this connection method also has significant disadvantages. The main disadvantages of paw cutting are lower structural strength, increased airflow, and susceptibility to the negative effects of precipitation. To eliminate these shortcomings, the corners of the log houses must be additionally lined from the outside.

There are two options for chopping with the paw - an oblique paw (dovetail) and a straight paw.

Straight paw

With this type of felling, a small distance is retreated from the corner and the log begins to be cut from the sides first. Next, a “paw” is made at the end of the log - they create an even rectangle, which must fit perfectly with the identical neighboring one. The main secret that needs to be taken into account at the very beginning of felling is that to create the first “paw” you need to choose a thinner log and start from its narrow edge. Otherwise, if you start the procedure with a large-diameter log, you won’t be able to make a rectangle on thin logs. The resulting width and length on all logs will be the same, but the height will be different, since it is determined by the diameter of the log.

As a rule, they try to supplement a straight paw with a rectangular root spike from its inner corner. This is done in order to achieve better performance properties, since in its pure form a straight paw is a rather weak connection. A tenon is created on the upper edge of the paw, and a groove for it is selected from the lower side.

Koka paw

Cutting into an oblique paw is a more complex joining method. In this case, the shape of the paw is significantly modified; now it represents a trapezoid, two planes of which are inclined. The features of the shape formed the basis for the name “dovetail” (Fig. 2). This joint configuration provides greater corner strength than a “straight paw”. However, this type of connection is very labor-intensive and can only be done by highly qualified craftsmen.

The oblique paw may have an even more improved configuration - with a spike, which significantly improves its strength. When constructing using an “oblique paw” connection, a template is removed from the first paw, for example, from plywood, and the remaining ends are marked according to it.

When chopping with an oblique paw, you can use GOST 30974-2002 to select the correct connection options. In GOST they are installed for the paw geometric dimensions, determined by the diameter of the log. This will be especially advisable if the logs have almost the same diameter or if a rounded (calibrated) log is used.

DESIGN FEATURES OF LOG WALLS

Despite the fact that wooden architecture has a long history, traditional technologies gradually undergo changes over time, becoming more and more modern features. This also applies to wooden log houses. Traditional structural units used for the construction of log walls since ancient times are gradually supplemented by various technical details, allowing to improve the performance characteristics of log walls. Next, we will touch on various design techniques that can be used to compensate for a number of shortcomings that arise due to shrinkage of logs.

Connecting logs along the length

When building large wooden log houses, developers usually face a situation where the length of the wall exceeds the length of the log. The standard log length is 6 meters. In this case, the logs need to be butted together at their ends. So that the joints are not visible from the outside, the end connections of the logs are made exclusively inside the cuts. It is important to take into account that it is impossible to lay only all butted crowns in a row in height. A solid log must go through at least three rows of joined crowns. However, dressing with a solid log is ideally best done every row. In cases where the house has a long blank wall that does not intersect with other internal walls, an additional cut is made from short sections of logs in this wall, into which all joints are removed.

To connect logs along the length, a dovetail configuration with a tenon is traditionally used. This type of connection is quite simple to perform, but due to the shrinkage of the logs, its strength may decrease over time.

To join logs in a cut, another method is often used. With this connection method, the logs are attached to dowels. For each log being joined, a distance of approximately 1/4 of the log diameter is set aside from the end and a hole is created for the dowels. This hole is continued in the adjacent perpendicular log. The joined logs, after installing the dowels, are carefully connected to the perpendicular logs of the cut.

Another very common way to connect logs is to tie them with threaded rods. In this method, grooves are created on top of the joined logs at a short distance from the ends, and a cut is made from them to the end. Then a pin with nuts and washers at the ends is placed in it, then the nuts are tightened, pulling the logs together. To ensure longevity of the connection, the grooves (ideally also logs) should be antiseptic with special wood preservatives.

Undercut

One of the most important components of the construction of log walls is the design of the interventional groove, also called the lunar groove. To achieve a perfect connection of logs, the inter-crown groove should have a slightly smaller radius than the log itself. Then the log is adjacent to its neighbor with two ribs very tightly, and inter-crown insulation is placed in a small gap in the center of the groove. In this case, the edges of the groove protect the seal from getting wet. This design has another significant advantage. Due to shrinkage of wood, logs become covered with cracks on the bottom side. The log literally “sits” when the edges of the seam slightly diverge. As a result, the logs, after shrinking the frame, fit even more tightly to each other. But if in the design the groove of the upper and the radius of the lower logs are identical in size, then after a crack appears, the edges of the groove will move apart, which will lead to the appearance of cracks between the logs that will need to be caulked.

This specific design of the lunar groove is the main difference between traditional and modern cutting technologies. In the old days, to insulate inter-crown joints, they traditionally used tow or moss, and repeatedly caulked the joints of logs. Nowadays, special rolls made of natural materials, such as tape jute, are used as interventional insulation; the width of the materials is selected depending on the width of the groove.

Compensation cut

The use of a compensation unloading cut carried out on top of the log is another modern improvement of centuries-old technologies. The name itself already eloquently makes it clear that the cut is created in order to relieve excess internal stress in the log. The location of the cut was chosen for a reason, because the cut is securely covered by the next log, which prevents moisture from penetrating into it. The cut expands during the drying process, but the number of cracks throughout the log, and most importantly their depth and size, decreases.

The cut is made along the axis of the logs, but does not protrude to their ends and does not pass through the locks. The absence of a cut at the ends is a very important point. After all, the indentations from the ends and cuts are created not for decoration, but to prevent cold air from penetrating from the street into the wall through the outer ends. This is especially important if the building has walls, the inner end of which faces the house, and the outer end faces the street. In this case, creating a cut along the entire length of the log will lead to through blowing of the wall, which will lead to the need for additional sealing.

Hanging corners

This technology applies to all compounds with a remainder. The technology of hanging external corners can significantly reduce the appearance of inter-crown cracks after shrinkage of the log house. The essence of the technology is that the inter-crown grooves on the protruding ends of the logs are selected a little stronger, so as to achieve a 5-8mm gap between the logs. As a result, the logs stick out freely in the air without leaning on each other.

The advantage of this constructive solution the fact that, when exposed to air, the outer ends of the logs dry out much less than the rest of the log. As the log house shrinks, the gaps gradually become smaller, and the ends, in turn, shrink more tightly. While the absence of gaps would lead to the log hanging on the external outlets. In this case, gaps would form on the inner parts of the corner, since the internal diameter of the logs would be slightly larger than the diameter of the outlets.

CONSTRUCTION OF LOOM

When erecting a log house, they place it under the first crown horizontal waterproofing. It does not allow the wood to come into contact with the foundation plane, preventing the penetration of moisture and preventing the appearance of mold and rotting of the log house.

The laying of the first crown begins with half-logs, on top of which full-fledged logs are then laid round logs. Particular attention is paid to laying the first crown; all operations must be carried out with extreme precision. Place it in a horizontal plane on the foundation, maintaining right angles. Be sure to antisepticize the first crown.

An inter-crown seal is laid between the rows of logs. To ensure that the sealing material does not move during the assembly of the crowns, it is recommended to secure it using a furniture stapler.

To join logs, dowels (dowels) are used, placing them at a distance of 1.5-2 m from each other. Nagel used in wooden house construction, are round rods (stems) made from wood of more durable species (oak, birch) than a log house, their diameter is 25-30 mm. For them, installations are drilled simultaneously in three logs through hole. The length of the dowel should be 20% less than the hole prepared for it. Nagel in macce walls are placed in a checkerboard pattern.

After installing the entire frame, logs and beams, rafters are cut in, then the subfloor and roof are installed. The roof is made temporarily, covered with roofing felt or film. The log house is treated with an antiseptic, and the construction site is preserved for a year, because... The log house should shrink within a year.

After shrinkage of the log house, the final installation of the rafter system and subfloors is carried out. In the process of shrinking the log house, gaps appear after the wood dries out, so it is necessary to re-caulk the log house, then sand it and cover it with finishing impregnation (oil, varnish, paint, stain, etc.) of which there is a huge amount today. The rafter system is re-tightened and the roof is installed, and then all the necessary internal Finishing work. Windows, doors, finished floors and ceilings, electrical and plumbing are installed.

Articles on construction

Wood finishing materials

Wood finishing materials are the best for life. When the difficult stages of planning and building your home are behind you, you are on the threshold of perhaps the most creative stage of work - finishing the house. And if in exterior decoration a wooden house, as a rule, does not need it, then the interior, even the most minimal one, is necessary.

Methods for cutting log houses. Manual cutting. Russian cutting VS Canadian cutting. Pros and cons in discussion

From the article you will learn:

1) What methods of cutting log houses are there?

The variety of methods for cutting log houses is huge, and today, very often, more and more new methods appear, and often these are still the modernization of existing ones, which are used as donors for new methods of cutting log houses. And to save your time, in this article I will focus only on time-tested methods of cutting log houses.

The main methods of cutting log houses:

Russian cutting “into a bowl” (with the remainder), which in turn is divided into cutting with a classic semicircular bowl and cutting with a hidden spike, is also called with a fat tail. And both the classic cut and the tail cut can be performed both with an upper bowl (a more modern version) and with a lower bowl (a more traditional version, the roots of which go deep into the history of Russian wooden architecture, almost all monuments of Russian wooden architecture, including the famous Kizhi are made exactly in the Russian cabin with a lower bowl)

Russian felling "in paw" (without residue), a colder option, and that is why it was not widely used either in the Russian North or in Siberia, but was used as light buildings, although now log houses and bathhouses and houses are cut "in paw" , without really understanding the purpose of this technology. The most common locks in the locking room are the dovetail and the classic rectangle

Canadian felling - has a wedge-shaped lock - a bowl, which, after careful calculation, taking into account the properties of wood and high quality execution, during the shrinkage process, the upper log is seated and wedged, thereby preventing cracks in the bowl. And such a connection is considered more reliable, although it has not been proven in practice.

2) What is their main difference. Advantages and disadvantages

Each method of cutting log houses has its pros and cons, its own character, which it is advisable to get acquainted with “on the shore” in order to avoid surprises. And at the beginning I want to say that today, a perfect method of inter-crown connections has not yet been invented and they will not, because construction material- this is wood, a natural material that has not only positive and well-known qualities, but also its own characteristics, such as changes in size, twisting along the axis depending on external factors, the time of year, and the only thing that the methods of cutting log houses should cope with, This is to minimize the unfavorable consequences of these changes, namely, the appearance of large cracks, the slope of the walls of the log houses, skewed corners, etc. Therefore, the bowl must securely hold the log in one place and prevent movement in the bowl itself.

The classic Russian cutting with a semicircular bowl is a good option, but in terms of reliability it is inferior to the Russian cutting in a bowl with a fat tail (with a hidden spike), because This very secret tenon (tenon groove) keeps the log from moving along the log. Russian cutting with a lower bowl has an advantage over Russian cutting with an upper bowl (cutting in the oblo), since the bowl itself does not allow the cracked and open longitudinal groove (pit) to open too much, and it is a much more proven option, as I wrote above, almost all the monuments of Russian wooden architecture, and many of them were 300 years old, were cut into a Russian felling with a lower bowl. Cutting "in the paw" is cold, due to the characteristics of the wood, it has increased heat loss along the fibers, and the length of the log is not enough to stop the cold, therefore, the corners freeze. Canadian cutting is completely new for Russia, there are few craftsmen who know how to cut it correctly, and therefore there is a large percentage of defects, Canadian cutting today is fashionable, and if it’s fashionable, then you can make money on it, so everyone gets caught and starts cutting it , but in the end it’s scary to watch.

3) Which manual cutting is better. Russian cabin VS Canadian cabin

Theoretically, the Canadian cutting has a slight advantage over the Russian cutting in a classic bowl, but is still inferior to the Russian cutting with a fat tail. What is the basis for my conclusion in favor of Russian cutting into a bowl with a fat tail?
- The presence of a fat tail in the Russian cabin does not allow ventilation of the corners, whereas in the Canadian cabin, at the slightest mistake of the carpenter there will be drafts, besides, I already said that this cabin is new for us, and there are few craftsmen who know how to cut it
- The fat tail keeps the log from moving along the log itself, thus the distortions of the walls are minimal, but in the Canadian one there is nothing keeping the log from moving along the log itself
- Price, my friends, if anyone says that price is not important to him, I won’t believe him. As I already said, Canadian logging today is a trend and a way of making money, and therefore the price for Canadian logging is inadequately high, on average in Russia it is 20-32 thousand per cubic meter, while Russian logging into a bowl with a fat tail will cost from 14 to 20 thousand, the difference is noticeable

Conclusion:
If it is important for you to be in trend, and you have free money, order a log cutting method - Canadian, but if reliability and time-tested technology of manual cutting are important to you, do not hesitate and order a log cutting method - Russian cutting into a bowl with a fat tail.

Thank you for your attention