Installing modern plumbing is a complex, labor-intensive process that requires expensive tools, experience and knowledge of a professional technician. However, homeowners often want to save money and install acrylic with their own hands.
It is very difficult to do this correctly, because some models are heavy and large, so you have to connect them almost by touch. In addition, for high-quality installation, special legs are required that distribute the weight of the bowl and raise it to the required height. In this article we will tell you how bathtubs with legs are installed, as well as what fastenings they are equipped with.
Types of claw foot baths
Clawfoot bathtubs are fairly common plumbing fixtures that can be made from any material. Special supports used to install a container for washing with your own hands. They are supplied complete with each hot tub model, as they are calculated and designed in accordance with its shape and weight. The following types of clawfoot bathtubs are distinguished:
Note! To properly install a cast iron or acrylic container for washing with your own hands, it is better to use standard legs, as they optimally fit the shape and bearing capacity selected model. In the absence of “native” supports, use universal ones, which are suitable for most bathtubs.
Fastening methods
There are many ways to mount a cast iron or acrylic wash basin without using supports. For this, brick, metal frame or foam blocks are used. But installing a clawfoot bathtub is the simplest and most convenient option for those who want to do the work themselves. When installed correctly, the legs perform 3 important functions: weight distribution, leveling the bottom and raising the bowl to the required height. The supports are secured using the following methods:
The design and method of fastening the supports is determined by the characteristics of the bath. An acrylic hot tub, which is light in weight, is placed on a frame, the legs of which perform only an auxiliary function, and cast iron models are mounted only on high-quality supports designed to withstand significant loads.
Tools and materials
To facilitate the installation process, you need to take care in advance of the tools and materials that will be useful in the work. Do not forget that the installation of the washing container on the supports is carried out simultaneously with the connection to sewer system. To install the font with your own hands you will need:
- Building level.
- Silicone based sealant.
- Insulating tape.
- Assembled siphon with overflow.
- Legs suitable for the selected bathtub model.
- Rubber gaskets.
- Adjustment screws.
Please note that the process of installing an acrylic washing container will be very different from cast iron or steel, because models from various materials have different characteristics. Apart from the heavy weight, it is easiest to install cast iron products with your own hands, as they are highly stable.
Installation technology
The process of installing cast iron, acrylic and steel bath differ, but are performed according to a general algorithm. As a rule, it consists of 3 stages: connecting the drain, fixing the legs and leveling the bathtub. The service life, convenience and safety of using plumbing equipment depend on the quality of installation of supports, so this process requires a serious approach. Experienced craftsmen bathtubs are placed on legs using the following technology:
Important! After graduation installation work you need to use silicone sealant to prevent leaks or moisture from entering this gap. If the gap in that place is more than 1 cm, it is eliminated using a moisture-resistant solution.
Installation of decorative legs
In addition to the support legs, which perform a strictly utilitarian function, there are decorative ones. They are made of plastic, plaster, stone and metal. Decorative overlays used to disguise or embellish unpresentable support structures. These elements do not perform a load-bearing function, so they are purchased and installed separately.
Decorative overlays for supports usually take the form of paws, vines or mythical characters or animals. To fix them with your own hands, you need to follow simple instructions:
- The surface of the main supports is degreased using gasoline, alcohol or solvent.
- Glue is carefully applied to the decorative overlay.
- The pad is pressed tightly against the main support, holding it in a static position for 1-2 minutes.
- Excess glue is removed with a clean rag until dry.
Note! Decorative overlays perform only an aesthetic function, therefore they cannot withstand the weight of even light acrylic models. Therefore, they are fixed to the bottom or main supports using glue.
Video instruction
Washing in a bathtub that shakes under your feet is still a pleasure. And so that she can stand and not wobble, we need additional measures. How to fix the bathtub, what fasteners to use, how to fix the legs on tiled floor- all this is below.
The clawfoot bathtub is easy to install. Especially if the legs are height adjustable. They allow you to set the edge at the desired height and compensate for uneven floors. But not all legs are the same. Some do not give a feeling of stability and the bathtub sways under your feet - not the most pleasant feeling. In addition, it may not be safe. There are several ways to secure a bathtub so that it does not wobble.
If the problem is that the bottom of the bathtub also sag, then it is better to make a base. Most often it is made of bricks and mortar. But not all bathtub manufacturers consider this option to be correct. Some indicate that installation on bricks and mortar is contraindicated. In some cases, the solution is to fill it with polystyrene foam and/or polyurethane foam.
Wall mount
When installing a bathtub, so that it does not wobble, it is better to secure it to the wall. Depending on how it is located, it can be mounted on three or two sides. Before fixing the bathtub, it is leveled at the height at which it is planned to be used. Then the procedure is as follows:
The bathtub is installed in place. This time it must be raised and lowered so that its edge falls between the fastener and the wall or rests against it. It depends on what you are using to secure the edge of the bathtub to the wall.
What can you use to attach
Now let's talk about what exactly is used to attach the bathtub to the wall. There are different options. From the “folk” - a steel corner, wooden block, galvanized profile for plasterboard. When fixing the bathtub with their help, they serve as a support, but do not fix it. Even if you do nothing else, the bathtub on legs will wobble less, but it’s better to fix it.
One of the bracket options For fixation, a sealant is used. They coat a corner, profile or timber with it. When installing a bathtub, the edge squeezes out the excess, which must be carefully picked up, cleaning both the wall and the bathtub. If the composition dries, it will be difficult to wash, so while the solution or sealant is “fresh”, carefully remove the excess.
You can first install the bathtub, then close the gap between the side and the wall with sealant or tile adhesive. This method also works and has its place.
There may be such fasteners Eat special fasteners in the form of metal plates or complex design brackets with and without rubber pads. When using this type of fastener, they are installed so that you can crawl up and tighten the screw that attracts the side to the wall.
How to raise a bathtub higher off the floor
The height of the standard legs is not always enough, and then you have to look for how to raise the bath higher above the floor. The first thing to do is unscrew the adjusting bolts to the maximum allowable height. Sometimes the standard height adjustment is not enough. If a couple of centimeters are missing, you can find a pin or bolt of the same diameter, but longer, and use that. This is more reliable than laying pieces of tile under the legs.
Pedestal
The second thing that comes to mind is to make a pedestal. Bricks are often used for clawfoot bathtubs. They are simply placed under the legs. For a steel bathtub, and even more so for a cast iron one, a sheet of metal can be laid between the legs and the brick. Point loads created by the legs of the bathroom can crush the brick. They say, paving slabs in this regard it is more reliable. You can use it instead of bricks. But it’s still unlikely to be possible without gaskets. Yes, and this option will provide a rise of 4-5 cm. Not higher.
If you need to raise the bath higher, it is better to build a pedestal of several rows of bricks and concrete/tile adhesive. The area of the pedestal must be no less than the area of the bottom of the bathtub. It doesn't have to be continuous. You can fold two rows in the area where the legs are installed. One brick or one and a half - depends on the mass of the bathtub. For steel, one row is enough; for cast iron, one and a half is better. Wait a couple of days until the solution gains strength. Then place the fresh one about five centimeters on top. And install the bath, check the horizontal installation, press if necessary, and leave until the solution sets. So let's form the desired shape"bed".
A common way to raise the bathtub higher, but “wrong” The option is clear and seems reliable, but many manufacturers do not recommend this type of installation. Probably due to the fact that under the influence of a large mass the pedestal can fall apart. Of course, this is possible, but if the edges are well fixed to the wall and the outer wall is supported, the structure will be reliable.
If you are comfortable with welding, you can extend the standard legs. One of the options in the photo. A metal plate is welded to the legs, and large diameter bolts/pins are welded to it. This is just one of the options. The load on the floor will also be a point load, so it’s better to weld another one under the bolts metal plate. Load distribution will allow you to place it on a tiled floor without any problems. And such a design will slide and move less.
What to put under the legs of a cast iron bathtub
A cast iron bathtub is the heaviest. Putting it on bricks or paving slabs, even with a metal spacer, is risky. If it really doesn’t work out (the sewer outlet requires raising the drain), you need reliable stands. As an option - glued pieces of plywood, textolite, paving slabs with a plate laid on top. Although both tiles and plywood can be pressed through. Textolite is more reliable, especially since it comes in different thicknesses. But cutting thick ones (and even finding them) is a problem. But 10-12 mm thick is more realistic to find. We cut it into squares and collect the desired height, twist with bolts/studs through the holes in the corners. On the front plate we form a recess for installing a support bolt or leg.
How to secure a bathtub on legs so it doesn't slip In general, what do they put under the legs of a cast-iron bathtub? Among the tested options: a stack of hockey pucks, pieces of wood, OSB squares glued together in a stack. They are fixed to the floor with elastic tile adhesive or sealant. This will reduce the likelihood of “slipping out” and the stand becoming corroded, even if it does break. But to absorb point loads, between the legs and stacks of material, it is better to lay a piece of dense (possibly reinforced) rubber.
The best thing you can do is leave it on its stock “legs”. If you still need to lift, install longer threaded screws. Usually the diameter is taken with a significant margin. So adding 2-3 cm in length does not add problems. If you want insurance, you can lay a foam block under the bottom and fill the missing height with polyurethane foam. With cast iron this will not provide guarantees, but still an additional support “just in case”. You can make supports near the legs and/or in the middle.
How to fix a bathtub if the walls have low load-bearing capacity
If attaching the bathtub to the walls is not an option (plasterboard or foam block, just an old crumbling wall), you can only create a reliable base on which it should be installed. One option is a pedestal, described above. Often it is supplemented with a frame that supports the front side. This is where the maximum load usually occurs, so a frame is assembled, which is attached to the floor with dowels, even if tiles are laid on the floor. When installed, one of the sides has a reliable support, which provides the necessary stability.
The retaining wall for the front side is made of timber, plasterboard profile. You can weld it from a profiled pipe, a corner with a small shelf.
The second option is a welded frame made of profiled pipe, which is welded to the size of the bathtub. It “sits” on the frame, and it, in turn, is rigidly attached to the floor using the same dowels. The gaps between the wall and the side can be closed with any in an accessible way, but this is not what will hold the bathtub, namely the frame.
For shock absorption and noise reduction, you can use rubber gaskets - made of hard rubber. Or boards like in the photo. They can also hold the container from the sides. This way of fastening the bathtub to the floor is reliable. She's definitely not going anywhere. Using the same principle, you can make a frame for separately standing bath, and sheathe it and decorate it to your liking.
How to secure legs to the floor
Installing a bathtub with legs depends on their design, and there are many of them. There is no need to describe any specific one, since usually everything is either intuitively clear, or there are installation instructions. It is not always in writing, sometimes in the form of drawings, but usually this is enough. More information in graphics than in words. But, if a clawfoot bathtub is installed on tiles or porcelain tiles, it can slide. To avoid this, here's what you can do:
The latter option provides high reliability, but dismantling the bathtub will be difficult. On the other hand, the legs must be firmly fixed so that there is no play. These movements can break the concrete and the bathtub will wobble again.
There is another option - with guy wires or lanyards (a device for tightening and removing slack). They are bought at a fastener store. This option is possible if the legs are connected with a pin, if they have standard holes that can be caught on.
One of the options Anchors with hooks are screwed into the floor. They can be used to secure not only the legs to the floor, but also to the walls. Tension adjustment in the lanyard is provided. You just need to take the most powerful ones and look at the length.
For many people, comfort in the bathroom is associated with a quality bath. A metal product is considered to be one of the best in terms of quality. We will consider additionally how to install a metal bathtub yourself, placement options, and principles of work.
Features of steel baths
Installation of a metal bathtub is largely related to the peculiarities of its characteristics. You can find these plumbing fixtures on legs, in boxes, and other mounting methods.
Modern models of their metal have a number of features:
- Glass-forming raw materials are now included;
- The surface does not crack;
- Deformations are not scary;
- Not afraid of alkali, acids;
- Retains color;
- Wide selection of shapes;
- Budget price.
Steel models differ exquisite design, and their service life will be much higher than acrylic ones. Of course, the water in such a product will lose temperature much faster; when it gains temperature, the sound is quite loud and requires grounding. Applying a layer will help to cope with this problem. polyurethane foam.
Any type of product must be reliably and safely installed in accordance with all the rules.
Installation options for a steel bath
Unlike cast iron bathtubs, this model requires reliable fastening. Features of installing a steel bathtub are related to the specifics of the material. The disadvantages of steel bathtubs can also be eliminated at the installation stage.
First distinctive feature This type serves the need for installation before the process of finishing the bathroom. In this case, it becomes possible to give the surface of the support a rather interesting look.
Most often, it is customary to install baths between three walls. This method will allow you to securely fasten the product. The distance required for installation should be equal to the dimensions of the product, plus a few centimeters from above.
There are several ways to install a bathtub correctly:
- On legs;
- In the middle of the room;
- In the corner;
- On the podium.
The height of the bath and installation will depend on the drain, the convenience of connecting the siphon to the sewer, and a number of other features. Installation is carried out on pre-prepared, bare walls. Prepare polyurethane foam, which will definitely come in handy during the process.
Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages that remain to be studied.
On standard legs
When choosing a device, pay attention to the quality of the legs that are necessary for installation. Very often they are completely unsuitable. The installation process must be carried out in stages:
- Place the product near the installation site with the bottom up;
- Install the siphon;
- Prepare the legs;
- Put it in place and connect it to the drain.
Legs modern baths They are extremely rarely reliable, most often they carry clean decorative function. In addition, due to the lightness of the material, this model has an increased risk of overturning. Therefore, it is advisable to provide additional fasteners.
To the corner of the room
If it is customary to install the device in the corner of the room, the support will only be on two sides. With this method, you will need to resort to additional support.
The process consists of the following stages:
- You'll need a corner. Make five half-centimeter holes;
- Attach the corner to the wall;
- Fill all irregularities with sealant;
- Place the bathtub between the walls and the corner with precise support.
The steel bathtub is quite light. Its stability can only be ensured with reliable fasteners.
Between the walls
With this arrangement, it is advisable to install corners on both sides of the product. This ensures maximum fastening reliability. As a rule, the dimensions of the distances between the walls coincide with the standard dimensions of bathtubs. In this case, three walls provide an additional point of support, which is very important for lightweight models. Moreover, this even creates some additional comfort. The third wall can even be made of plasterboard, a niche.
In the middle of the room
With this option, it is necessary to manufacture a special case, which will be responsible for reliability. In this option, the use of legs is completely unnecessary, since the load will be taken by a frame made of brick or other dense material.
This is one of the most popular methods due to its high reliability. In addition, in this case, access to communications is not always convenient, which is also important to take into account.
Manufacturing for a steel podium bathtub
Very effective reliable method installation involves making a podium. This design may differ in the production method and the material from which it will be made.
According to the method, a distinction is made between monolithic and frame type. The step that supports the product, the first type. The second type is hollow inside; all communications are hidden in it and necessary things are stored.
The podium can be made of plasterboard, brick, or blocks. Each material has a number of features.
Making a metal frame
It is quite easy to make a high-quality metal frame yourself. To do this, you will need a metal profile that is connected with bolts. Can be fastened by welding. The edges need to be processed so that they are not sharp. It is better to additionally make a brick platform below. The frame is attached to the walls, the joints are treated with sealant to avoid leakage.
The method is suitable for this lightweight and durable material. Such fasteners may not save a cast iron bathtub, and may even damage acrylic.
Foam blocks are a good material to work with. They are quite light and durable. It is important to pay attention to the joints, since the material absorbs moisture and can become a place for fungus to form.
Making a podium from wooden beams
Wood is often used to make podiums. It is customary to install a sheet of plywood on the joists. To prevent noise from forming, install strips of cork under the joists. It is advisable to use the free space as a place to store things.
Methods for attaching a steel bathtub
After the bathtub has been prepared, the legs have been installed, and turned towards the drain, we proceed to fastening.
One of simple methods– use of polyurethane foam. The product is displayed, adjusted in height, and partially filled with water. Foam is poured into the gap from the wall to the device. It is advisable to let it harden for 24 hours.
The brick frame makes the installation more reliable and safe. It can be combined with legs. Can be completely covered with brick. Combination of legs with metal frame gives good results.
The method of inserting into a niche is very reliable. In this case, the device will have to be placed in special grooves.
When installing, maintain a slight level of inclination to facilitate the passage of water.
Brick base for a steel bath
There should be no gaps between the wall and the base of the bath. If this is not done, mold and mildew will soon form.
For steel bathrooms, a brick base is most often installed. The rear pillar should have a height of nineteen centimeters, the front one seventeen. This move will increase reliability.
Installing a steel bathtub on brick supports
Before installing on the brick, you need to put spacers. You need to adjust the correct installation using a level. This should be done without haste, at least together. It is important to check for stability. If the indicators are not reliable enough, it is worth making additional fastening to the wall.
Fastening a steel bathtub to metal corners
This method is quite reliable. Corners can be included in the kit or purchased separately. The planks must be attached using self-tapping screws in special places. You can install corners along the walls, and place the sides on it. Treat all joints with sealant.
Securing the bathtub to the wall
You can attach it to the wall using a bracket. Another option is to provide adhesion to the wall before installation. When exposing the bathtub, it must connect to the side. These could be corners or staples. You can use brick supports and sealant for this.
Covering the perimeter of the bathtub with brick
The most reliable installation method is brick cladding. At this point, you first need to install the product, then carry out the laying. After drying, decoration is done based on wishes. It is important to leave a window, opening, and access to communications under the bathroom. For cladding, the brick is halved in thickness. It is necessary to leave space for laying tiles and access to the siphon.
Installation on an additional wall profile frame
The most common frame used for bathrooms is plasterboard. It has a number of advantages, such as water resistance, strength and lightness. The base is pre-selected from metal profiles, which are connected to the bathroom. A screen for the product is often made from such material.
Whatever type of installation is chosen, its important feature should be reliability. It is important to carry out all measurements and tests several times before completing installation.
The bathroom is the face of every home, appearance which speaks of the wealth, thriftiness and style of the homeowners. The central place in the bathroom is occupied by the bathtub, which is used for hygiene procedures or washing. The selection and installation of a washing container is the most important stage of renovation in this room. To save money on calling a professional technician, you can install the tank yourself. In this article we will tell you how to secure a bathtub so that it does not wobble, but stands steadily.
Choosing a bath
A bathtub is a large-volume sanitary container that is used for washing, laundry and other household needs. Some time ago, they tried to displace shower stalls with this device, however, they were defeated due to their lower functionality. Bathtubs are made from materials that can withstand the weight of water and the person using it, so that it retains heat for a long time, and maintains its appearance and seal when in contact with water.
They produce 3 types of sanitary containers:
Note! To ensure that the bathtub stands level after installation and does not wobble, you need to choose the right container size. The length of the bathtub should correspond to the distance between the walls minus 3-5 cm. When deciding which bathtub to choose, give preference to models that best match the calculated dimensions, so that after installation is completed there are no gaps between it and the walls through which water can penetrate. Right choice The size of the container will make it much easier to attach the bath to the wall and floor of the room.
Installation features
The question of how to fix the bathtub so that it does not play or wobble worries most homeowners if they are renovating the bathroom with their own hands. The process of installing a sanitary container for washing has its own nuances and tricks, but you can cope with this task on your own, taking into account the mounting features various types baths:
Important! When renovating a bathroom, the bathtub is installed in place only after the floor has been finished with ceramic tiles. To provide access to the floor under the bathtub, the container is raised and then placed on bricks or wooden blocks.
Installation Rules
When purchasing a bathtub, be sure to pay attention to the mounting system it comes with. After purchasing a sanitary container, carefully read the instructions and become familiar with the installation method recommended by the manufacturer for this model.
In most cases, the bathroom installation process looks like this:
- Before securing steel bath, it is necessary to prepare the site for installation. If ceramic tiles are used as finishing, then you need to lay tiles on the floor and walls where the container is located.
- The bathtub is turned over on its side and then carefully placed on the floor, since in this position it is much more convenient to connect the drain and overflow pipe.
- Without changing the position of the sanitary container, the floor siphon is connected to plastic pipes using a sealant or sealant.
- The legs are screwed or glued to the bottom of the bathroom, adjusting the supports in height.
- The bathtub is placed in such a way that the siphon can be connected to the sewer system.
- If necessary, a podium made of bricks or other moisture-resistant materials is built under the bottom of the bathroom. They make a frame to hide the pipes behind a decorative screen.
- Lastly, you need to hermetically seal the joints between the walls and the sanitary container using sealant, moisture-resistant solution or plastic corner.
After completing the installation, experienced craftsmen check the quality and reliability of the fastening. To do this, the sanitary container is completely filled with water to check whether the drain is working correctly, whether it is swinging or leaking.
Video instruction
Ceramic tiles are the optimal flooring solution for bathrooms. It has many undoubted advantages and advantages, which allows you to install plumbing equipment of various types and sizes on it. Bathtubs are considered one of the most complex and demanding accessories. The technology for mounting a bathtub on legs depends on the characteristics of the floor in the room.
Before you begin the actual work, you should briefly familiarize yourself with the differences between floor coverings.
| Type of tiled floor | Description of technical characteristics |
|---|---|
| The most durable coatings that can withstand significant forces. Only on such floors is it recommended to install heavy cast iron or stone bathtubs. The tiles are laid on the leveling cement-sand screed on concrete, there is no insulating layer. If various insulation materials were used to reduce thermal conductivity, then installing heavy containers is not recommended. |
| Ceramic tiles are installed on sheets of plywood or OSB. They are used as load-bearing elements wooden beams. Such a base does not have high levels of physical strength; it is not recommended to install heavy bathtubs on them. The fact is that wooden structures change linear dimensions due to fluctuations in relative humidity. As a result of such movements, the degree of adhesion of tiles and adhesive significantly decreases. Loads from the legs of the bathtub speed up this process and increase the risk of tiles peeling off. |
| In terms of strength they occupy an average position. The thickness and strength of the screed above the heating system cannot guarantee the integrity of the coating; sharp loads from the legs of the bathtub can cause critical damage to the coating. |
Be sure to take into account the features and specifications floors before purchasing a bathtub.
General tips for mounting a clawfoot bathtub on a tile floor
Each type of device has its own characteristics, we will talk about them below. But there is something for everyone General requirements, compliance with which is prerequisite correct installation.
Quality of flooring. Before installing the bathtub with a long level, check the levelness of the floor. Despite the fact that all the legs have their own adjustments, they cannot level out large unevenness. In addition, if the legs have a large variation in height, then this significantly worsens the appearance of the room, especially if the bath is freestanding.
Another important point. Once you have decided on the specific location of the bathtub, make sure that the tiles under the legs are laid according to technology. To do this, tap on the ceramic tiles, the presence of a drumming sound indicates that there is no glue underneath. Such tiles are likely to crack; before installation, special measures must be taken to increase the load-bearing characteristics of the coating.
Make sure the legs are strong. In many cases they are not designed for permanent loads, but should be used as additional elements when setting up the bathtub and installing it on more reliable supports.
Assemble the legs in strict accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. If you want to make your own changes to the design, then you need to do this competently, otherwise the stability of the bath will deteriorate.
We'll consider detailed instructions for installing a bathtub with legs for several cases: the legs are used as the main support, the legs are used as an additional support, the bathtub is freestanding or mounted in the corner of the room. Each type of work has its own fastening features, pay attention to them.
Prices for Tarkett floor tiles
Tarquette floor tiles
How to fix a bathtub on a tiled floor with legs with an adhesive backing
Read the attached instructions and make sure all elements are complete and in good working order. Check the condition of the flooring using one of the methods described above. This type of bathtub can be mounted on both concrete and wooden supporting structures.
Step 1. Turn the bathtub upside down, make sure that the distance to the drain hole will provide a good connection with the sewer pipe.
Practical advice. In order not to damage the tiles on the floor and the bathtub cover, you need to put cardboard or wooden spacers. Installation work is much easier and faster to do with an assistant.
Step 2. Degrease the bottom of the bathtub where the double-sided tape is located. It is better to degrease with special solvents; if they are not available, you can use alcohol or vodka. After vodka, the surfaces must be thoroughly dried. The locations for gluing the tape are marked on the bottom of the bathtub.
Step 3. Remove the protective oiled paper from the tape on the legs. Carefully place them along the lines and press firmly. Take your time, work with utmost care. If you make a mistake, tearing off the legs will be problematic. In addition, the adhesive surface will significantly deteriorate its original properties and the fixation will be unreliable. You will have to change double-sided tape, but it is quite difficult to find high-quality tape in stores, and you will have to waste a lot of time searching.
Step 4. Screw the adjusting bolts on the legs until they stop and check their position with a level. They should lie in the same horizontal plane, if this is not the case, then adjust them.
Step 5. Assemble and install a siphon on the bathtub; the specific algorithm of work depends on design features equipment.
Step 6. Measure the distance from the legs to the sides, it is needed to mark the location of the side stops of the bathtub.
We have already mentioned that lightweight steel and acrylic bathtubs It cannot be fixed to the floor using legs alone. This is due to the fact that such structures are very unstable; during use they can tip over or slide on smooth ceramic tiles. It is possible to specifically fix the legs to the floor with anchors only in certain cases for bathtubs installed in the middle of the premises. And it is not recommended to do such work for two reasons: you need a lot of practical experience in installing bathtubs and you have to drill holes in the tiles.
If there is a need to replace or move the bathtub to another location, you must drilled tiles change. This is quite difficult for two reasons. Firstly, most often you will not be able to buy exactly the same tiles to replace; there will be traces of replacement on the floor. Secondly, it is difficult to dismantle well-laid tiles from the base; there is a high risk of damaging nearby ones.
Step 7 On the walls of the room under the level, draw lines at the height of the sides. Make sure all angles are 90°.
Step 8 Temporarily place the bathtub in place and mark the fixation points for the side supports. Move the tub aside and drill holes for the dowels.
Step 9 Apply a layer of silicone sealant along the drawn lines and install the bathtub on the hangers. The thickness of the sealant should be such that all irregularities in the tile are covered. The squeezed-out excess material should be leveled and removed.
Step 10 Finally align the legs and attach them to the floor. If it is made of wood, then just tighten the screws. If the floor is made of ceramic tiles, then for fixation you should first drill holes for dowels and, after installing the bathtub, drive dowel-nails into the plastic parts.
Step 11 Check the tightness of the siphon connection. This can be done under pressure using special equipment or by gravity. Fill the bathtub before the water begins to overflow, place sheets of paper under all pipe connections. Open the valve and wait until the water drains completely. Take out the paper; if there have been minor leaks, wet spots will appear on it. If problems are discovered, they must be corrected immediately.
The final step is installing a decorative screen. It can be made from masonry materials or panels, covered with ceramic tiles or using plastic panels.
How to fix a wobbly clawfoot bathtub
We have already mentioned that it is not recommended to use legs as the main support. They create significant point loads on tiles and surfaces acrylic bathtubs with thin walls they bend, etc. There is another significant problem with such stops. In case of long-term operation and heavy loads, the threaded connections of the legs gradually become loose, over time the vibrations become critical and can cause leaks at the junction of the siphon with the sewer pipes. In addition, the sealing of the joints of the bathtub with the walls is constantly broken, water penetrates into the cracks with all the negative further consequences.
What to do if you have exactly this situation, the bathroom began to wobble on the tiled floor? There is a way to fix the problem without dismantling the bathtub and without damaging the ceramic tiles.
If there is a decorative screen, it should be dismantled. The removal process depends on the materials of manufacture; it is most difficult with masonry materials. The structure will have to be completely demolished. During the work, make every effort to preserve the floor and materials; with proper skill, they will all be reusable.
To complete the work you will need a car jack, bricks or aerated concrete blocks, glue for ceramic tiles or cement-sand mixture, trowel, container for mortar, electric drill with mixer attachment.
Step 1. Unscrew the nut connecting the siphon pipe to the bathtub drain hole. Remove the hose from sewer pipe.
Step 2. Using a jack, lift the container 5–8 cm higher established level. In order not to damage the bathtub, place a wooden block or any small piece of board between the jack and the bottom.
Important. Don’t rush to lift the bathtub right away; first find the balance point. If the container tilts to one side or another during lifting, lower the bath and change the position of the wooden support and jack.
Step 3. Lay two rows of bricks along the edges of the bathtub. Select the height of the masonry so that there is a gap of approximately 1 cm between the surface of the bricks and the bottom of the bathtub.
Step 4. Coat the top surfaces of the bricks with tile adhesive or cement-sand mortar and slowly lower the bathtub onto it. Make sure that the container rests on the solution with maximum area and evenly. Check its position with a level, and if any deviations from horizontality are detected, correct the problems.
After the glue or solution has completely cured, attach the siphon drain tube to the sewer. This method of attaching bathtubs with legs is considered universal; it is not necessary to make stationary stops around the perimeter. To guarantee, you can tighten the adjusting bolts of the legs until they stop with the ceramic tiles.
Practical advice. If the bathtub has a decorative screen, it is recommended to also apply tile adhesive to the floor under the legs. The glue adheres tightly to the tile and forms a depression under the legs, which prevents the bathtub from spontaneously moving on a slippery floor.
Next, proceed to sealing the gaps between the wall and the bathtub. If they are large, then they must first be laid with any suitable building materials. Small cracks are covered silicone sealant. Use antibacterial compounds to prevent black mold from appearing on their surfaces.
Practical tips for attaching a clawfoot bathtub to a tiled floor
After securely attaching a clawfoot bathtub to a tiled floor becomes significantly more difficult. renovation work and dismantling of plumbing. In order not to create problems for yourself while using the bathroom, do not rush to start work, carefully study the recommendations of professional plumbers. What should you pay special attention to?
Stack of water. It depends not only on the parameters of the siphon, as many inexperienced builders think. The main condition of the stack is that all curved siphon tubes and the drain in the bathtub must be located above the level of the sewer pipe. The greater the height difference, the faster the water will drain. The rapid flow of liquid automatically cleans the pipelines, as a result, you will have to do preventive inspections and repairs much less often. Before attaching the bathtub, raise the adjustable feet as far as possible. At the same time, make sure that the comfort of use does not deteriorate; the distance of the sides to the floor should be within optimal values and not make it difficult to use the bathroom.
If possible replace corrugated flexible siphon connection hoses with smooth plastic pipes.
Working with flexible hoses is much easier; there is no need to strictly observe the dimensions; they can always be bent into the desired position. These are the undoubted advantages of such elements. But they also have a significant drawback. Dirt quickly accumulates in the folds of the corrugation; it will not be possible to remove it from there simply by washing; you will have to disassemble the siphon.
Frequent disassembly of the siphon can cause damage not only rubber seals, but also threaded connections. As a result, serious damage occurs that requires complete replacement devices. Carry out this work on a firmly attached bathtub to ceramic floor extremely difficult. It is necessary not only to lie down under the bath, but also to perform all work with extreme caution in conditions of limited visibility and accessibility.
Practical advice. To increase the reliability of using the bathroom, it is recommended to buy siphons without a separate sump. He brings more problems than good. Buy those types of siphons in which the function of a sump is performed by an ordinary bend of the tube. This device does not allow unpleasant odors enter the room, become clogged much less often and, if necessary, can be simply cleaned. There is no need to disassemble the siphon, just clean the pipe with an ordinary rubber plunger.
Try to buy bathtubs from imported manufacturers. Domestic ones, unfortunately, are often of poor quality. This applies not only to enamel, but also to geometry. Check the corners of the sides with a long square; in domestic products they are rarely straight. The error is only a few tenths of a degree per long length the bath turns into a few millimeters. Due to this, between the side and the ideal flat wall a wedge-shaped gap is formed. It is not recommended to seal it with silicone sealant; the errors become too visible. You have to use special plastic or ceramic baseboards for bathtubs, and they should be mounted only on fixed surfaces. At the slightest vibration, the corners come off; re-gluing them without securely fixing the bathtub is useless.
Keep in mind that all repair work in the premises being used is much more difficult and expensive than taking timely measures to prevent problems from arising during operation.
To increase the area of support of the legs on the ceramic tiles, you can use various durable pads. But this mounting option is only suitable for those bathtubs that have decorative screens. It is much safer to lay tiles for outdoor use; they have increased physical strength.
Be very careful when attaching the legs of freestanding bathtubs. The best option for such devices - installation on floors with concrete bases and thick, especially durable tiles. If there is a possibility of the container moving horizontally during use, then the legs can be fixed to the floor with small anchors. But remember that manufacturers do not provide this possibility; the lower parts of the legs will have to be slightly altered, and additional nuts will have to be used to adjust the height and horizontality. These works are very complex, it is better to use the services of professional plumbers. If possible, buy freestanding bathtubs without legs; such models rest against the floor with the entire surface of the bottom.
When marking holes in ceramic floor tiles, be careful not to place the holes at or near tile joints. In these places, the risk of cracking during drilling increases significantly. Pay attention to the position of all four legs, not just the visible ones. During installation, it is always possible to move the container a few centimeters in any direction and select the desired position of the lower elements of the legs.
remember, that adhesion rates of tile adhesive to front surfaces are much lower than to working surfaces. Before additional fixation When positioning the legs on the surface of the tile with glue, they should be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, dust and grease. If the fasteners are not visible, it is recommended to remove the glaze from the surface in several places; this can be done with a grinder with diamond blade or sharp blows of a chisel. Never rush, cracked tiles will cause big problems.
It is much more advisable to install very heavy bathtubs on concrete base, and only after that lay ceramic tiles on the floor. The only one possible problem This technology creates difficulties when replacing an old bathtub model with a new one. But don’t despair, no one in the world has yet been able to foresee optimal solutions for all occasions.
And one last piece of advice. Modern bathroom fixtures often contain live parts. To prevent accidents steel and cast iron baths needs to be grounded. If the house has three-wire wiring, great. If the wiring is old, then proper grounding cannot be done.
Important. Never use as grounding metal pipes, this is strictly prohibited by the PUE.
We talked about the main methods of attaching bathtub legs to ceramic tiles. Subject to professional recommendations There will be no problems during use.
Video - Installing a clawfoot bathtub
