Corner partition made of plasterboard with a door. Installation of plasterboard walls. Designs and materials

In this lesson we will learn how to make a simple interior partition from plasterboard with our own hands. It will have a single frame and single-layer sheathing, with a doorway.

We will also find out why drywall is the most popular material for these purposes, what types of profiles are suitable here, what is needed for installation, and what is its order.

Why drywall?

First of all, let's decide why it is worth building a partition from it? Yes, because GK is a great thing:

• it's relatively light
• requires a minimum of time for installation (such a partition in an apartment, with some skill, can be assembled by one person in a day),
• relatively cheap
• By appearance no different from a main wall
• allows you to easily lay the necessary communications through the frame, without problems arranging openings and niches
• has potentially better sound insulation than brick wall comparable thickness
• There are no wet processes during installation, which means there is a minimum of dirt.

We will not consider a wooden frame, since this is really a collective farm style. Metal is more reliable, stronger, lighter, is not afraid of changes in humidity, and you won’t get a splinter with it (although it is quite possible to cut it).

Before we start, let's calculate how much we can save without resorting to the services of finishers. The plasterboard partition, which we will consider as an example in the article, has dimensions of 4x2.77 m, this gives an area of ​​slightly more than 11 sq.m. The price for this type of work (in Ryazan) is 500 rubles/sq.m. + the same additional price for arranging the doorway (at least I think so). With an opening of 0.88x2.1 m we have a hypothetical area of ​​12.93 sq.m. It turns out that the work of the craftsmen will cost 6,464 rubles.

Types of profiles for arranging partitions

Of course, simple ceiling profiles will not work here; there are special ones for partitions - guides and racks. Guides (PN) come in four sizes: PN-50 (50×40 mm), PN-65 (65×40 mm), PN-75 (75×40 mm) and PN-100 (100×40 mm); in some sources they are called not PN, but UW, that is, for example, UW-100. It is the same. As you understand, they only differ in width. All are 3 meters long. Their application is the same as that of ceiling guides.

Rack profiles (PS) are divided into 4 types: PS-50 (50×50 mm), PS-65 (65×50 mm), PS-75 (75×50 mm), PS-100 (100×50 mm), which goes without saying, because they must have the same width as the guides. But rack profiles also come in different lengths: 3; 3.5 and 4 meters. This is because it is extremely undesirable to build them up in case of high ceilings. The bourgeoisie call such profiles CW, that is, CW-100, for example. I would venture to suggest that the letters C and U indicate the cross-sectional shape of the profiles (although C is a rotated U, damn it), but what W means is a mystery to me, perhaps Wall, but then what does D mean in the designation of ceiling profiles (UD , CD)? Write in the comments if anyone knows))

You and I will call them as appropriate: PN and PS. So, I would like to immediately note that profiles with a width of 50 and 65 mm are rather weak for interior partitions, no matter what the ceiling height. But they can still be used if the plasterboard is sheathed in 2 layers. The 75s are already good, but the 100s are ideal. We will use them further in our example. If you use such profiles, the total thickness of the partition will be 12.5 cm. This is a lot, but such a partition can easily be filled with as many as two layers of standard sound insulation (read more about this in the article about soundproofing an apartment with your own hands), and this is a big plus.

If the primary thing for you is thickness (well, and cost), then use 75 mm profiles, in this case you save 2.5 cm. We will place the profiles in 40 cm increments. A 60 cm increment is allowed, but we need maximum strength, so Moreover, if there are tiles on the partition, the maximum step should be exactly 40 cm.

Drywall, as you may have noticed, we will use wall plasterboard, 12.5 mm minimum.

Tools and accessories

Assembling a plasterboard partition will require us to:

Marking and installation of the frame

We will analyze everything, as always, using an example. We have a virtual room:

And suddenly we decided to fence off a cozy office in half a room. And they didn’t forget to provide a doorway to enter it.

We begin to mark out our future partition. We retreat the required distance from the wall with the window, put marks on the side walls and use a level to draw two vertical lines. All that remains is to connect them along the ceiling and floor; for this we use beading. In case the structure is not solid, or we need to erect it strictly at an angle of 90 degrees. to the side wall (for example, for subsequent installation of a bathtub), the rule applies Egyptian triangle. It states that in a triangle whose sides are in a ratio of 3:4:5, the angle between sides 3 and 4 is 90 degrees. This rule is easily confirmed by the Pythagorean theorem.

Let me explain how such a triangle is used in practice. On the side wall there is point A, from which our partition will begin. Let us set aside from it on the same wall in any direction a certain distance that is a multiple of three (let it be 120 cm); this will be point B. Now we take some kind of string (you can do it with a tape measure itself, but it’s inconvenient and not so accurate), measure a distance on it that is a multiple of four (4/3 of the first, that is, 160 cm) and draw it on the floor part of a circle of this radius with a center at point A. Now draw a circle with a radius that is a multiple of five (5/3 of the first, that is, 200 cm), with a center at point B. The circles will intersect at point C. Draw a line through points A and C , it will lie at right angles to the wall.

Although you don’t have to worry about it, just attach a sheet of drywall with the short side to the wall, and draw a line along the long side (or vice versa). There are simply times when a triangle really helps. In our case, it could be used on the ceiling, and the end of the partition could easily be moved to the floor using a plumb line.

After we have marked everything, we attach the guide profiles to the floor and ceiling. On the walls you can use both guides and racks; this does not play any role. The main thing is not to forget about the need to glue the profiles adjacent to load-bearing structures, sealing tape. It is needed for their tight connection with the walls, floor and ceiling, and it also further enhances sound insulation. In addition, it probably (not proven) plays some role in protecting against cracks, allowing the structure to “breathe” a little.

Let's talk about the design of the doorway. It is clear that special profiles need to be set up for it, but this, as a rule, is not enough; These same profiles need to be strengthened. You can use a combination of two rack profiles, that is, insert them into each other, but this is only suitable for Knauf profiles. Another option is to insert timber of the appropriate width into the profiles.

Or you can simply place another additional one next to the door profile. The first option, in my opinion, is preferable, but later in the example they will be side by side so that it is clear what we are talking about. The maximum weight of the door leaf when using PS-100 is 40 kg; if a heavier door is planned, special profiles with a thickness of 2 mm must be used. So, we put them under the doorway. Let our door be 80 cm wide (leaf), which means we need to make the opening for it at least 8 cm wider, don’t forget about this:

The length of the PS should be one centimeter less than the height of the room. It should also be remembered that the rack profiles are not installed haphazardly, but strictly in a certain direction - the stiffening rib should look in the direction from which we will begin facing with plasterboard. After all, you need to attach the sheet first from the edge side, and the next one to the rest of the profile. If you neglect this rule, the septum will turn out to be humpbacked. We will start facing from left to right, so our profile edges are directed towards the left wall. We temporarily attach the bottom and top of the PS to the PN on one side (which will be sheathed last) with self-tapping screws. You can also use a cutter.

We have installed the “door” profiles, now we attach a jumper from the guide between them.

We install the jumper as in the figure above. We cut the profile 20 centimeters longer than the opening, cut through side faces exactly in width and bend the resulting “ears”. For now, we fix it with self-tapping screws only inside the opening; when we sew on the drywall, the jumper will additionally be connected to the PS through the sheet with black self-tapping screws.

Important: joining gypsum boards is only allowed directly above the opening, no closer than 10 cm from its edge. Therefore, we place two more PSs above the opening. The second one is needed to join the sheets on the other side.

More on this a little later. And now we simply mount two profiles, spaced one step apart from each other - 40 cm, taking into account the above condition. Our doorway starts 40 cm from the wall, which means we will place the first at a distance of, say, 60 cm, and the second - 100. For now, we fasten them with self-tapping screws.

We set the remaining PS based on the position of these two. In our case, it is obvious that the first sheet will be cut, 60 or 100 cm wide (let’s take 60). The next sheet will extend beyond the “door” profile by more than 40 cm, but this is not a problem; the intermediate profile (which falls directly behind the “door”) can be omitted if the “door” is reinforced. If we have not strengthened it with guides, then just the intermediate one will be needed. Let's use it as an example. We also place the remaining PS in increments of 40 cm.

The profiles automatically fit into one vertical plane. Once they are all exposed, tiling can begin.

Facing the partition with plasterboard

We agreed to start it from the left corner. The first sheet will reach the first short PS above the doorway, that is, it will have a maximum width of 60 cm. You can immediately cut it to fit the opening, or you can first “sew it on” and then cut it in place. We must leave a gap of 1 cm between the sheet and the floor, and 0.5 cm under the ceiling. The height of the sheet is 2.5 m, and the ceilings in our virtual room are 2.77 m. This means there will be more small leaf above.

Sheets can only be joined on a profile, and cheap ceiling profiles 60x27 mm are very suitable for this purpose.
If they are not there, we use a rack-mount one. First, we attach a sheet to the frame, “sew” the PS to it, and then sew the upper gypsum board to the PS.

In the next row is small and large sheets change places: small - from below, large - from above. And then there is an alternation of these options.

This is done to eliminate cross-shaped joints, which have a probability of cracking slightly less than 100%; they are especially dangerous on ceilings. If you see such joints somewhere (in the form of “+”), find the one who did it and spit in his face, this is just a monstrous mistake.

Do not forget to chamfer the ends by 2/3 of the thickness in places where the sheets adjoin the walls, ceiling and each other (this does not apply to factory edges). The pitch of the screws is about 15 cm. On the jumpers you should take more steps. On adjacent sheets, the self-tapping screws should be spaced apart, keeping at least 10 mm from the factory edge, and 15 mm from the cut edge. And we make sure that the heads of the caps do not pierce the cardboard.

After we have sheathed the entire wall on one side, we can unscrew the screws holding the rack profiles on the other and fill the internal space of the partition with a sound absorber. In our case, two layers of mineral wool (or one, but thick) will fit inside. Once we're done with this, we'll start lining the second side. This time we go from right to left, and the first sheet will have a maximum width of not 60, but 100 cm. We must shift all the vertical joints of the sheets on this side by 40 cm to provide additional strength. In addition, we also move the horizontal joints. So, in this case the first long sheet will be on top, I think everything is clear with this.

I already talked about how seams are processed correctly in an article about a do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling. Everything is similar here.

That's very good video from Knauf, which perfectly shows the entire process of assembling the partition, but, of course, without nuances:

• If you subsequently plan to hang paintings, sconces, etc. on the partition, you need to provide for embeddings in it in advance - additional sections of the profile.

In addition to the article, I want to offer you a powerful master class, where a specific partition is discussed in detail:

Well, that's probably all. We learned how to install a plasterboard partition with our own hands. Don't forget to subscribe to updates to learn about new articles the day they are published.

The basis of a plasterboard partition is a frame made of metal profiles or wooden beams. In apartments, installing a frame made of profiles is preferable to wood. Wooden frames are more suitable for private houses and cottages. We will discuss how to install a frame from profiles for a plasterboard partition in this article.

Introduction

Important! But this installation sequence is applicable only for plasterboard ceilings and partitions. installed after a plasterboard partition. The slatted ceiling is attached directly to the partition. At the level slatted ceiling additional jumpers from a rack profile (PS) are installed in the partition frame.

In our example, a plasterboard partition is installed from floor to ceiling. The further story is based on exactly this installation of the partition.

Partition marking

Any construction work begins with markings. To install a partition, you need to mark the boundary of the planned partition on the wall and floor. The border line must be closed. To apply it, you need to use a building level so that the guide marks for the future partition are strictly vertical.

You need to step back from the finishing border of the partition by the thickness of two layers and draw a second closed mark. On a mark drawn along the floor, you need to mark the alignment of the future opening under the door. The markings are ready, we proceed to attaching the guide profiles (PN).

Installation of a frame made of guide profiles (PN) for a plasterboard partition

Installation of a frame made of profiles begins with the installation of guides. Guide profiles are attached to the ceiling and floor. First, using metal scissors, you need to cut blanks of the required length from purchased 3-meter profiles. In our example, these are 3 blanks (one for the ceiling and two for the floor, to the right and left of the doorway) see the picture above.

The edge of the lower guide on the doorway side can be bent at 90° by making cuts on the profile walls at 45° (see photo).

To attach the guides, you need to drill the guides, together with the base, with a Ø 8 mm drill, every 60-70 cm and secure them with dowel nails.

Important! On the side of the profile that will come into contact with the load-bearing surfaces, you need to glue a sealing seal. This is needed for better sound insulation partitions, as well as compaction of the frame will save the partition from cracks in the area of ​​​​the seams in the future.

Installation of rack profiles (PS) for plasterboard partitions

Rack profiles (PS) are cut to the required length (room height) and installed in the frame. Two PS profiles (otherwise called racks) are installed on the walls and attached to the wall with double nails.

Important! Dichtungsband sealing tape must be glued to the frame posts that are in contact with the walls.

Two posts are fixed along the border of the doorway. These racks are inserted at the bottom and top into the guide profiles. The racks must be aligned strictly vertically and attached to the guide profiles with metal-to-metal screws 9 mm long or with a cutter. (A cutter is a special tool for fastening metal profiles to each other).

According to the rules, frame posts for drywall are fastened every 60 cm. The fastening pitch (60 cm) is measured from the middle of the posts. This is done so that the edges of the plasterboard sheets, whose size is 1200x2500 mm, when fastened, fall into the middle of the rack and are firmly attached to the frame.

In the vertical posts in which the door will be installed, you need to insert it into the spacer wooden beam ok and secure it with self-tapping screws to the rack. The wooden insert will simplify the installation of the door in the future and strengthen the fastening of the door frame.

In our example, another rack should be fixed in the middle of the wide span (see figure).

The vertical posts are installed, let's start installing the crossbars.

Installation of cross lintels for a plasterboard partition

It is better to make the transverse jumpers of the frame for a plasterboard partition from rack profiles (PS). They have great rigidity. They are attached as shown in Fig. In our example, there will be 7 crossbars.

The crossbars are attached to the vertical posts as follows.

One side of the cross profile is inserted into the rack. But it's not entirely simple! The rack profile has rounded edges to enhance rigidity. Therefore, at the point where the cross member is inserted into the rack, rounded edges The racks need to be straightened using pliers.

The second side of the cross profile must first be prepared. In the photo you see what design needs to be cut out using metal scissors. It is not difficult. First, cuts are made along the profile. The resulting “LANGUAGE” is bent and it is this that is screwed to the flat side of the vertical post. Then the sides are cut off.

All fastenings are made with metal-to-metal screws 9 mm long or with a cutter.

There is another way to attach transverse profiles. Cut the crossbars as shown in the picture and insert them into the racks.

After completing all the work described above, we can consider that the installation of a frame made of profiles for a plasterboard partition is complete. After completing the work, do not forget to check its quality. The frame should not swing or even move a little. The vertical posts of the doorway must be strictly vertical.

Let's summarize the installation of a frame made of profiles

The frame for the plasterboard partition is ready. It is rigidly attached to the floor and walls. The doorway has the same width throughout its entire height. The width of the opening is equal to the width of the door with the frame plus 3-4 cm for foaming.

All that remains is to lay the electrical wiring inside the partition in corrugation, sew up one side of the partition with sheets of plasterboard, lay sound insulation inside the partition, and sew up the other side with plasterboard. Then spend Painting works and install the door. After this, the partition can be considered installed.

But more on this in the next article.

Especially for the site:

Drywall today is extremely popular among professionals and amateurs, and is increasingly used when installing partitions and cladding walls in apartments and houses. Due to its lightness, the material can be freely used in multi-storey buildings or on the second floor or attic of a private house - this structure will not have a significant load on the floor. Simplicity of installation makes it possible for novice builders to independently install a partition or wall cladding.

A do-it-yourself plasterboard partition can be installed after studying the sequence and rules of the process and becoming familiar with the nuances of working with this material.

It should be noted that plasterboard is used for the installation of both blank walls and partitions with windows of various shapes. His ability to take necessary forms, under correctly created conditions for this, make it possible to make or arrange windows in partitions of a round or other curvilinear shape.

The ability of plasterboard sheets to undergo planned plastic deformation allows the installation of partitions with voluminous edges and the installation of original shelves that can withstand rows of books or the installation of household appliances in them.

Partition with additional functions - shelves for books and household appliances

If previously you had to drag bulky standard furniture into your apartment, today, using plasterboard, you can create exclusive wall options that will immediately perform two functions - a room space divider and a piece of furniture. This results in a double saving of money and space, which is especially important for apartments that are not too spacious.

Materials for installing plasterboard partitions

What do you need to have to create such a partition, besides the basic material - drywall?

All necessary materials- very easy to use and affordable

From additional materials you need very little, and what is very important is that all the necessary components for installing such a wall have a very affordable price.

Another advantage of all materials for creating plasterboard partitions is that they will not pollute the premises of a house or apartment in the way that, for example, concrete mortars can do.

So, if you take everything into account possible options, then to install the partition you will need:

• Sobstvobut, GVL themselves. Regular drywall with a thickness of 12 mm - the most optimal option for partitions in rooms with normal humidity. When installing walls that will separate the bathroom, kitchen, or toilet room, you will need moisture resistant drywall, having a soft green color - this is how the manufacturer distinguishes it functional features. There are other types of drywall from which you can choose the one you need, depending on the location of the partition and its shape.

Drywall brand	Thickness in mm	Size in mm
GKL (regular)	12.5	2500×1200
GKLV (moisture resistant)	12.5	2500×1200
GKLO (fire-resistant)	12.5	2500×1200
GKLO (fire-resistant)	12.5	2600×1200
GKL (straight edge)	12.5	2500×1200
GCR (flexible)	6	2400×1200

• Metal profile and wooden bars for the frame, having a width of 75 mm, if between two panels will be installed soundproofing material, and 50 mm if the space between the plasterboard sheets remains hollow or will fit thin insulation. In general, we can say that the width of the profile sets the wall thickness parameter.
• Self-tapping screws for metal structures and for wooden parts.
• Fiberglass serpyanka mesh for reinforcing joints.
• Gypsum-based putty, starting and finishing - for sealing joints and eliminating surface defects.

It can be determined from this table, but experienced builders recommend taking it 15% more than calculated.

№	Name of material	Unit	Material consumption rate per 1 sq. m
1.	Drywall	sq.m.	1
2.	Profile CD 60	linear meters	2
3.	Profile UD 27	linear meters	2
4.	U-shaped universal bracket for mounting material on the ceiling	PC.	1.32
5.	Sealing tape	linear m	0.85
6.	Dowel 6/40 mm	PC.	2.2
7.	Self-tapping screw 3.5×9.5 (flea)	PC.	2.7
8.	Self-tapping screw 3.5×25 (for drywall)	PC.	12
9.	Longitudinal connection for CD profile	PC.	0.2
10.	Fiberglass mesh	linear m	1.1
11.	Putty for joints (starter)	kg	0.3
12.	Deep penetration primer	liters	0.1
13.	Putty for the surface of plasterboard sheets (finishing)	kg	1.2

Tools needed for work

When installing a plasterboard partition, you cannot do without some tools, the list of which includes:

• A screwdriver is a must, as you will have to tighten a large number of screws, and a regular screwdriver do this work it will be extremely difficult.
• A long, preferably metal ruler, for marking and cutting sheets of drywall along it.
• A construction square will be needed for marking and for checking the correct installation of parts during installation.
• Construction level - to determine the horizontal and vertical planes and frame racks.
• A plumb line is necessary to determine the ideal vertical by combining the points marked on the ceiling and floor.
• Pencil – for marking.
• Metal scissors - used to prepare workpieces of the required length, for cutting notches on a metal profile.
• Electric jigsaw - for cutting off the required fragments of the bar and cutting plasterboard sheets, especially along curved markings.
• Medium width spatula - for sealing joints with putty.
• Grater with fine and medium grain sandpaper– for leveling putty on seams and on the surface of gypsum fiber board sheets.
• Primer – for treating the finished partition before painting.
• Knife or hacksaw with small tooth for drywall, construction knife with replaceable blades.
• A plane with a beveled blade for cutting chamfers.
• It would be a good idea to have a riveter for fastening the metal profile - this will greatly facilitate and speed up the work.
• Electric drill with a set of drills.
• A needle roller will be needed if you plan to give the drywall curved spatial shapes.
• Folding meter and tape measure.
• Hammer for driving in dowels, screwdrivers for mounting the frame.

All these tools and devices are readily available for purchase at hardware stores.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Frame installation

Any construction work begins with measurements of the installation site, calculations and markings, and the installation of a partition is no exception.

Marking

• It is most convenient to start marking on the floor. Using a construction angle, a long ruler (construction level, rules) and a pencil, a perfectly straight line is outlined and drawn.

A metal profile guide will subsequently be attached along this line.

• The location of the doorway is immediately marked on this line - the guide will not be attached to this segment. The doorway is positioned in such a way that a certain piece of furniture can be placed on one or both sides - this also needs to be foreseen in advance.
• Now you need to project a line from the floor to the ceiling - this process is carried out using a plumb line, and in this case an assistant will be needed.

Transferring a point to the ceiling using a plumb line - top view...

Having climbed the stairs, the assistant lowers the plumb line down, and presses its other end to the ceiling in the approximate area of ​​the line.

... and at the same time - from below

The master marks a point on the floor with a cross, which needs to be projected onto the ceiling, the assistant slowly moves the suspension cord along the beam until the cone of the plumb line perfectly coincides with the point marked on the floor. When the goal is achieved, a mark is made on a point found on the ceiling. Thus, three points are found on the ceiling.

• In addition, on the walls, vertical lines are drawn to the ceiling at right angles from the edges of the line on the floor - they will determine the beginning and end of the horizontal projection line.
• Having identified points on the ceiling, draw a straight horizontal line along them - a guide will be fixed along it.

These two lines are very important, since the verticality of the future wall will depend on them. Therefore, their markings must be carried out with special care.

Frame installation

• The next step is the installation of guide profiles.

First, the profile is fixed along a line on the floor using dowels. As already mentioned, space is left for a doorway.

The holes for the dowels are drilled through the laid guides. Then they are removed, and plastic dowel plugs are driven into the holes.

The hole is ready...
... and a dowel is driven into it

• The next step is to install the guides on the walls along the previously marked vertical lines. During the installation process, the position is constantly checked according to the level in order to prevent even the slightest play to the side.

Otherwise - exactly the same, but with constant control of verticality

The bottom of the vertical profile is inserted into a horizontal guide installed on the floor.

If the walls are concrete, then the fastening process takes place in the same way as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then they will not require dowels. Self-tapping screws are screwed through guides directly into the walls.

• Next, the guide is attached to the ceiling in the same way as to the floors. Self-tapping screws are screwed in at a distance of 250 ÷ 300 mm from each other. Connections between the vertical and horizontal profiles on the ceiling are made in the same way as on the floor - using self-tapping screws or using a riveter.

The pitch between dowels is 250-300 mm

• The next step is to determine and mark the location of the doorway on the ceiling profile, based on the lower markings. This is done in the same way as before - using a plumb line.

Height measurements are taken to make guides that will be installed on the sides of the doorway. The required length is marked on standard profiles, and the required blanks are cut out.

Now they need to be installed so that they mark the doorway.

• The guides around the doorway are strengthened wooden blocks, which are inserted directly into them and screwed with self-tapping screws. Or, for the stability of the structure, another reinforcing profile is installed next to the first profile.

• After installing and strengthening the vertical profiles, the height of the doorway is measured on them. Using these marks, a horizontal crossbar from the required section of the profile is screwed, and then a wooden beam is also inserted into it, to which the vertical posts are screwed. Long screws are screwed into the end of the crossbar installed horizontally.

• Next, the space between the doorway and the walls is measured, and then the number of vertical posts is calculated, which must be fixed at a distance from each other of approximately 300 ÷ 600 mm.

Then sliced required quantity blanks of the required length. The racks are installed with their ends inward toward the guides on the floor and ceiling, with mandatory leveling. Fasten the profiles at the joints with self-tapping screws with large heads or with rivets.

• For greater rigidity, especially when high ceilings, horizontal crossbars are also installed between the vertical posts.

Electrical wiring

After the frame is completely assembled, electrical wiring is installed inside it, if provided.

The wiring can be done after fixing the drywall to one side of the frame, or before that.

Holes are drilled in metal profiles through which wires are pulled, enclosed in insulating corrugated or smooth tubes. The ends of the wires are left outside.

Electric cable prices

Electrical cable

Cutting and fixing drywall

• After wiring, drywall is fixed to one side of the frame. It is screwed on with black self-tapping screws specially designed for this purpose. The heads of the screws should go deeper into the gypsum board by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm.

• If necessary, this process is carried out as follows:

— measurements are taken of the place that needs to be covered on the frame;

- then the cut can be made with a knife for cutting paper or drywall, as well as a regular hand hacksaw;

Cutting drywall is not difficult at all

- if the cut is made with a knife, then the blade is guided along the established ruler so that it cuts through upper layer cardboard and plaster, but the bottom layer of cardboard remained intact;

- then, the sheet is bent along the intended line, and at the bend point it is cut to the end with a knife.

Ideally, there should be a chamfer at the joints

• The edge of the cut will not have a chamfer, and this is undesirable when sealing seams. The chamfer is made using a plane with a beveled knife.

• If you plan to install sockets or switches in the partition, after wiring in the drywall using special crowns required diameter holes are cut through which wires are routed to connect sockets after the partition is completely installed. However, you can install boxes for switches on the finished half of the partition right away - this will be even more convenient.

Installation of boxes - socket boxes

• Upon completion of installation of the material on one side of the frame, on the open side it is laid between the guides. Typically, mineral wool or isover is used for this process; polystyrene foam can also be used. Leaving the cavity empty is not recommended. It's not even about keeping warm - sometimes such a function is not needed. What is more important is that the hollow wall does not become a sound resonator - thermal insulation material here, rather, will play a role.

• Next, the second side of the frame is sewn up with plasterboard, in the same way as the first. If sockets and a switch will be installed on this side of the wall, then their position is calculated in advance, holes are cut before the material is fixed to the frame. The wires for them are brought to the place where the hole will be located, and after installing the drywall, they are brought out.

Door frame installation

• When the partition is ready, a box is installed in the doorway to hang the door.

• Wooden jamb with already installed hinges aligned and secured with powerful self-tapping screws in three or four places to the opening posts. Since wooden blocks were previously installed in them, the jamb will be securely fastened.
• The heads of the screws must be deepened into the thickness wooden racks boxes, for this purpose holes are pre-drilled in it “for hide it».
• Next, on installed box the door is hung. Typically, the door leaf for such a design is selected to be as light in weight as possible so that it does not pull the partition to one side or the other. If the doorway is properly mounted and strengthened, then there should be no problems with the installation and operation of the door.
• If it turns out that the doorway is larger than necessary, then wooden spacers are installed between the partition posts and the jamb. It is advisable that it be thick plywood, since it will not crack when the door frame is screwed through it to the studs. The remaining gaps between the jamb and the posts in this case are filled polyurethane foam. The foam must be allowed to expand and dry, after which it is cut off with a sharp construction knife.

The gap under the threshold is sealed with sealant.

Sealing joints on the surface of the partition

After installation is complete completed, you can proceed to sealing the joints of the drywall sheets.

For this you will need a sickle mesh. It is advisable to purchase a roll with glue already applied so that the mesh easily adheres to the cardboard surface.

• The mesh is glued to all joints, without exception.

• Next, using a spatula and starting putty, the joints are sealed, if possible, the seams are perfect and all excess sealing material is removed.

• When sealing joints between those sheets on which chamfering was carried out independently; before gluing the serpyanka, a primer treatment was done. It should dry well, and only after that you can stick the serpyanka and apply putty.
• It is also better to first soak the gaps around the doorway, sealed with polyurethane foam, with a primer, and then seal them, like all other joints.
• In addition, it is necessary to fill the holes left by the heads of the screws with putty, otherwise they may appear through the decorative coating as rust. After sealing the screws, the structure is left until completely dry.

• After the putty has dried on certain areas of the partition, it should be completely covered. This coating will give the surface better adhesion, and the finishing putty will lie flat on the wall.
• Next, the dried surface is completely covered. thin layer finishing putty - this can be done using a wide spatula. The surface is leveled as much as possible so that there are no deep grooves left from moving with a spatula.
• Next, after waiting for the putty layer to dry, it must be treated with a float with the installed NotNot with fine-grained sandpaper. Then, if necessary, another layer of putty is applied, which is also dried and processed with fine sandpaper.

• Before application decorative covering The leveled walls are once again impregnated with primer. Only after it has dried can you begin to paint the surface of the walls.

Video: easy installation plasterboard partition in the attic

If it's time to remodel your attic or... large room on the ground floor, there is no need to doubt the choice of this particular method for constructing a partition. If you act step by step, following all the recommendations, then even the most inexperienced novice builder will be able to cope with this process on their own. Well, with the exception of some stages when it is simply impossible to do without an assistant.

There are many designs of interior partitions; they can be used regardless of the materials from which the house is built. It is important to make partitions technologically correctly and ensure that they meet exactly the requirements that are necessary for certain premises.

Among vertical structures Inside the house there are load-bearing walls and partitions. The first ones are supported by floors and roof structures, they themselves must rest on the foundation, and on the second floor - on the underlying wall. Position load-bearing walls rigidly fixed on the house plan.

Interior partitions are not load-bearing structures. They only divide the interior space of the house, limited by main walls, into separate rooms. Therefore, they can be made from both heavy massive materials (for example, brick) and light ones (for example, plasterboard, wood). Sound insulation, environmental friendliness, aesthetics, and the possibility of remodeling the space depend on the material and quality of the partitions.

Requirements for interior partitions

All interior partitions in the house must:

• be strong and stable so as not to pose a danger to residents;
• maintain the required service life, in some cases equal to the service life of the house itself;
• have no cracks on the surface and in places adjacent to other structures (so as not to become a haven for insects, rodents and moisture storage).

In addition, there are special requirements:

• For bathroom and laundry room partitions, resistance to moisture and steam is important. It is advisable to make them from waterproof materials, but the main thing is to prevent moisture from getting inside the structure. This problem is solved by cladding made of waterproof material;
• for partitions of second floors and attics in houses with floors of wooden beams light weight is important, since they can withstand less load than reinforced concrete ones;
• if you need to illuminate a room in the back of the house, then it is better to use a translucent partition - made of glass blocks or structures with glass inserts;
• for laying engineering communications(electrical wiring, chimneys, water pipes etc.) a stationary partition of increased thickness is suitable;
• partition separating areas with different temperature conditions, must be massive and guarantee high thermal insulation.

In most cases, the systems must provide soundproofing of the premises. Massive structures cope well with this task, and in lightweight partitions, soundproofing material is used between the skins for this purpose.

Sound protection level

Insulation index airborne noise for interior partitions between rooms, a room and a kitchen, a room and a bathroom according to regulatory requirements must be at least 43 dB. The higher this indicator, the better design prevents the spread of household noise - from colloquial speech, radio, TV. However, it does not take into account the isolation of low-frequency sounds from a home theater or operating engineering equipment (ventilation, pumping). With equal airborne noise insulation indices, a massive partition attenuates low-frequency sounds much better than a lightweight frame partition. It is also important to take into account that holes in the partition (for example, cracks in doorway) significantly reduce the level of sound insulation. There are many nuances in matters of acoustics, and if for some reason it is important to perfectly soundproof a room, you should contact an acoustics engineer.

Traditional types of interior partitions allow you to provide a comfortable level of sound insulation. Structures made of massive and at the same time porous materials - ceramics, aerated concrete, gypsum concrete, shell rock - absorb and reflect sounds of any frequency well. Such partitions, about 10 cm thick, provide an acoustic insulation index of 35-40 dB, and 15 cm thick - up to 50 dB. In order, if necessary, to improve the sound insulation of systems made of these materials, create an air gap between two rows of masonry or additionally line the wall with plasterboard.

Multilayer structures are also effective, in which outer hard layers that reflect sound (for example, plasterboard sheets) are combined with soft layers that absorb it. In frame partitions, mats or slabs of basalt fiber are used as soft layers, which are laid between the cladding. At the same time, the level of sound insulation of frame systems is higher, the greater the mass and rigidity of the cladding layers, the wider the gap between them and the better the insulating properties of the soft material. Therefore, noise absorption will significantly improve the use of a double layer of cladding and special sound-, rather than heat-insulating, materials.

To achieve the same soundproofing effect, sometimes you have to choose between thick monolithic and narrow multilayer partitions. The latter can save usable area Houses.

	The places where frames are attached to rigid structures, as well as the places where they are connected to the floor and ceiling, must be insulated with elastic gaskets
	As a middle layer, a material with a thickness of 100 mm is used (fiberglass, mineral wool, cellulose insulation), for cladding - gypsum plasterboard or gypsum fiber board (12 mm)
	Taking care of safety, electrical cables are laid in, and freon tubes of the air conditioner are thermally insulated

Massive partitions include partitions made of ceramic materials, shell rock, aerated concrete, sand-lime brick.

Application area

Such structures are used in houses made of appropriate materials with reinforced concrete floors. It is not advisable to use aerated concrete partitions in rooms with high humidity.

Materials and designs

Brick partitions made from building ceramic or silicate bricks of at least M25 grade. A sufficient thickness of a single-layer system is 12 cm (half a brick), if the partition is small - 6.5 cm (made of brick laid on edge). To improve sound insulation, structures can be made three-layer - mineral wool (5 cm) is placed between two walls 6.5 cm thick or an air gap is left.

If ventilation ducts are installed in a brick partition (or part of it) or pipelines are hidden, its thickness reaches 38 cm. Such systems are already too heavy to be installed on the ceiling. On the first floor they are supported on the foundation, on the second - on the wall of the lower floor. The traditional finishing of a brick partition is 1-2 cm plaster.

In a house made of ceramic blocks, partitions can be partially or completely made from the same material, namely from one layer of blocks 10-12 cm thick. For aerated concrete structures, blocks 8-12 cm thick in one layer are used. Partitions made from these materials are lighter than brick, they are advantageous to use if it is necessary to reduce the load on the ceiling, in addition, they are easier to finish.

Installation

The installation of massive partitions begins after the installation of the building’s load-bearing structures. The base is leveled cement-sand mortar. To ensure accuracy when laying corners, a wooden (from panels) or metal template is used, and the verticality of the masonry is checked with a plumb line. To connect the partitions to the walls, when laying the latter, grooves (grooves) 5-6 cm deep are left at the junctions of the partitions. Bricks are placed in them when installing the system. If grooves are not left, the partition and wall are connected with metal rods. Wooden wedges are driven into the gap between the top of the partition and the ceiling, and the gap is filled with gypsum mortar.

At the same time, the peculiarity of the installation of structures made of ceramic blocks and aerated concrete is that the large and precise dimensions of the blocks allow the mason to work without templates. To ensure straight lines, the partitions are fixed on the floor and on the wall at the junction points. wooden slats, along which blocks are laid out.

Control zones

• When installing partitions made of aerated concrete, place at their base waterproofing material(two layers of roofing material).
• If the length of a 12 cm thick brick partition exceeds 5 m or the height is more than 3 m, then the masonry is reinforced with mesh or wire rods, laying them in mortar every 4-5 rows, and connecting the ends of the reinforcement to the vertical and horizontal load-bearing structures of the building. Brick partitions 6.5 cm thick are reinforced at any length and thickness.
• Aerated concrete and ceramic blocks must be cut to ensure that the seams are tied (two vertical seams should not be on top of each other).

Based on gypsum and various fillers, prefabricated large-sized slabs are produced for partitions.

Application area

Structures made of gypsum concrete slabs are used in houses with reinforced concrete and wooden floors. For rooms with high humidity, moisture-resistant boards treated with a water-repellent agent are used.

Material and design

Gypsum concrete slabs can have dimensions of 30-50 x 80-125 cm and a thickness of 6, 8, 10 cm. Usually, grooves and protrusions are made along the edges of the slab, which ensure quick and durable assembly. The material is easy to cut and groove for laying utilities in it. Gypsum concrete partitions are three times lighter than brick ones and have a smooth and even surface. The thickness of the structure from one layer of slabs is 6-10 cm. If it is necessary to improve the sound insulation of the room or lay pipelines in the partition, it is made double.

Installation

The system is installed on a floor leveled with cement-sand mortar, and roofing felt waterproofing is placed under the lower blocks. The template is made of two racks with a movable rail. The slabs are installed on top of each other, usually with the long side horizontal, with the seams bandaged. Use gypsum solution. Reinforcement is placed in the horizontal seams and secured in the walls that border the partition. The gap between the ceiling and the partition is sealed with gypsum mortar. There is no need to plaster the slabs, just putty.

Control zones

• The gypsum solution should be prepared immediately before use, as it hardens quickly.
• The metal rods that are laid between the rows of slabs must be treated with bitumen varnish.

General installation rules

• In new buildings, before installing partitions, it is advisable to wait several months after the construction of the building’s load-bearing structures to allow them to shrink.
• Partitions are installed before screeding the floor. Carrying out further screeding or roughing wood flooring, between the floor and the wall of the partition a gasket is made of soundproofing material 2 cm thick.
• Installation of systems begins by marking their position with lines on the floor, walls and ceiling.
• The structures are rigidly connected to the floor at the base and adjacent walls(or other partitions).

Video guide for installing partitions and non-load-bearing walls made of gypsum concrete slabs:

Basically, two types of partitions using wood are used - solid and frame.

Application area

Wooden partitions can be used in houses made of any materials, even without reinforcement wooden floors, they are ideal for the second floors of buildings and attics. Structures made from this material are easy to disassemble, so they are appropriate if redevelopment is possible in the future. In rooms with high humidity, wooden partitions must be protected with a waterproof finish.

Materials and designs

Solid wooden partitions are made from vertically standing boards that are as long as the floor height and 4-6 cm thick. To improve sound insulation, the boards are installed in two rows, placing soundproofing material or an air gap between them. The disadvantage of the design is the high consumption of materials and, accordingly, cost, as well as high weight compared to frame partitions. Systems based on a wooden frame are made of racks - beams with a cross-section of 50-60 x 90-100 mm and upper and lower frames (horizontal beams that frame the frame) of the same cross-section. Soundproofing boards are laid between the frame posts. The cladding is made of lining, plywood, OSB or gypsum board. For a partition consisting of two rows of frames with an air gap separating them or with a two-layer sheathing, the sound insulation index increases significantly. This design has a thickness of 15-18 cm; utility lines can be mounted inside.

Installation

At the base of the partition, a strapping beam is laid, which must rest firmly on the floor beams. The easiest way is to place it directly along the beam, and when placing the partition parallel or perpendicular to the beams, as well as diagonally, the beam is installed on a crossbar resting on adjacent beams. To create a continuous structure, two horizontal guides are fixed to the frame, between which boards are installed vertically, connecting them at the top with a fastening bar. When installing a frame partition, racks are placed on the strapping beam in increments of 40-60 cm (it is desirable that it coincides with the size of the cladding slabs), combining them top harness. The frame elements are fastened together with nails or self-tapping screws, using metal corners. Sheathing is installed on one side, and then the space between the beams is filled with sound insulation. The frame structures are attached to the walls with metal spikes and to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.

Control zones

• At the junction of the partition with adjacent structures it is necessary to secure metal mesh. This will prevent cracks from appearing.
• IN wooden house frame structures must be installed a year after the construction of the building (after its shrinkage). The distance between the top of the partition and the ceiling must be at least 10 cm. It is filled with tow and covered with triangular bars.

Special installation system frame partitions from (GKL), which provides all necessary elements, allows you to complete work especially quickly.

Application area

Lightweight gypsum plasterboard partitions can be used in houses made of any designs and materials and in any rooms, even with high humidity (special moisture-resistant sheets are provided for such objects).

Materials and designs

The system includes metal profiles frame - horizontal guides and vertical racks (section 50-100 * 50 mm), as well as gypsum board sheathing 1.25 cm thick and 120 x 200-300 cm in size and soundproofing material. They use designs with one-, two- and three-layer cladding, as well as on double metal frame(with space for utilities). The level of sound insulation of a partition depends on the number of sheathing sheets, the thickness of the internal soundproofing layer, and the presence of an air gap. Depending on this, the thickness of a partition with a single skin can range from 7.5-12.5 (single) to 17.5-22.5 cm (double), and with a double skin and an air gap - correspondingly greater.

Installation

Structures are installed during finishing work before installation floor coverings, on a screed or ceiling. Polyurethane or foam rubber soundproofing tape is glued onto the horizontal profiles and secured to the floor and ceiling using dowels and screws (in increments of about 1 m). Rack profiles are installed in increments of 30, 40 or 60 cm. The frame sheathing on one side is secured with self-tapping screws, and soundproofing material is placed between the profiles. Then the sheathing is installed on the other side of the partition. Irregularities in the cladding and screw heads are sealed with putty.

Control zones

• To improve sound insulation, partitions are mounted to the supporting structures of the ceiling and only then plasterboard is installed.
• The seams between the gypsum boards should be puttied in two steps.
• To protect against cracks, the joints between gypsum boards and adjacent structures should be puttied with reinforcing tape.

This video guide clearly demonstrates all the stages of building interior partitions from plasterboard sheets small size(small size):

To create partitions, glass blocks are produced, which are distinguished by a wide palette of colors, an assortment of surface textures and sizes.

Application area

Glass partitions are used so as not to block the access of natural light to rooms located in the depths of the house.

Designs and materials

Glass blocks are hollow “bricks” with walls made of transparent or colored glass. Due to the presence of air inside, they have good soundproofing properties and transmit 50-80% of light. As a rule, they square shape with dimensions 19 x 19 cm or 24 x 24 cm and a thickness of 7.5 - 10 cm.

Installation

Glass blocks are laid at the stage of finishing the premises after screeding and plastering the walls, but before finishing the floor and finishing the walls and ceiling. Glass blocks can be laid on a cement screed. The process of laying them in the wall is similar brickwork, however, the sutures are not ligated. The thickness of the seam is about 1 cm. Cement or cement-lime mortar is used, which is applied to the horizontal and vertical surfaces of the block itself before laying. From an aesthetic point of view, high-quality jointing is mandatory.

Control zones

• The connection of a partition made of glass blocks to the ceiling must be elastic, using cork gaskets, since glass is brittle material, and if deformed, the wall may crack.
• It is better to lay glass blocks on white or colored cement, then the seams will look more aesthetically pleasing.

Prices

The final cost of the partition depends on many factors. Moisture-resistant and fire-resistant materials are more expensive than usual; the price is increased by the quantity and quality of finishing, frame and soundproofing material. Installation of the partition is 30 - 40% of the cost of the material, and its delivery and unloading, especially in the case of heavy materials, can be equal to their cost.

Many modern apartments do not have a layout and therefore the owners independently divide the total area into rooms using interior partitions, or use decorative ones.

The simplest, fastest and in an accessible way creating interior partitions are plasterboard structures . Such partitions can be either solid or with a door, and if you have the desire and time, then you can make them yourself.

Drywall is universal building material, which is used both for finishing the room and for creating new structures in it, including interior partitions, and for creating apartments. The only things that can compete with it in terms of characteristics are: or

Benefits of using drywall if necessary, create interior partition with a door will be like this:

• This lightweight material , so the load on the structure of the house will be insignificant;
• All work with it is done by hand, without the involvement of assistants, since the material is light;
• the cost of drywall is low, as well as the materials necessary to create the frame and surface finishing ;
• material is easy to cut, it bends easily, so even arched structures are created with its help;
• installation of the frame and sheets is simple and quick;
• finishing of such structures is carried out with various materials;
• plasterboard sheets consist of natural materials, therefore they are safe for human health.

Eat different types drywall, so before buying it, you need to decide which one you need:

1. ordinary, more often gray, used in rooms where humidity is not more than 70%;
2. moisture resistant, has green or Blue colour and is used in rooms where there is constantly high humidity;
3. refractory, usually used in the kitchen, where there is a possibility of strong heating of the wall, it contains fiberglass and other additives, it is red or gray in color;
4. fire-resistant moisture-resistant, it is rarely used in rooms with difficult conditions.

The thickness of a regular sheet is 12.5 mm, and to create arches they use sheets 6.5 mm thick, to give them flexibility, they are pre-moistened.

Installation of an interior partition

At the first stage of the work, it is necessary to determine the location of the future partition. To mark, use a plumb line and a cord, parallel lines are drawn on the floor and ceiling.

Much easier to work with laser level, but buy it only to create plasterboard wall inappropriate.

Taking into account the presence of a door, the profile is not laid on the floor along the entire length of the partition, but space is left for the doorway. When laying the profile, keep in mind that the distance left for the door is 1-2 cm greater than its width in order to be able to install the door frame.

When marking, the width of the partition is also taken into account, if it is sheathed in one sheet, then 2.5 cm is added to the thickness of the frame, and if the gypsum board is laid in two layers, then 5 cm is added.

To perform the specified work, you will need the following tools:

• building level;
• measuring instruments;
• cord and plumb line, or as their replacement - a laser level;
• corner;
• electric drill;
• metal scissors or jigsaw;
• pencil;
• stationery knife;
• putty knife;
• container for plaster.

After marking, we cut the profile to the required length, and cover the rear walls with sealing tape.

Installation of profiles

Work begins with laying and securing the guide profile to the floor, after which it is installed along the entire perimeter of the future partition. The profile is fastened using self-tapping screws or dowel nails, it all depends on the material of the walls.

Now, using the rack profile forming a doorway, this must be done carefully and carefully, so that the distance between the posts at the top and bottom is the same. The verticality of the racks is checked by level, after which they are fixed.

To increase the strength of the doorway, it is recommended to lay wooden blocks of the appropriate size in the racks and secure them with self-tapping screws.

At the next stage, the remaining rack profiles are mounted if you have gypsum plasterboard standard width, then the distance between them is required 60 cm.

To increase the strength of the future partition, between the vertical posts it is necessary to secure horizontal jumpers, which are cut from the same profile.

A wooden block is also installed and secured into the transverse profile located above the doorway; it should easily fit into it so as not to disturb the shape, using a square check that the angles are 90 degrees.

The remaining transverse profiles are attached to the racks; special short screws are used for this.

After the frame is created, you will see that its structure is quite rigid and durable, start laying electrical wiring. The rack profiles have holes through which it will be convenient to thread wires.

The wiring is placed in a special corrugated non-combustible insulation.

Fastening drywall

At home You can use a utility knife to cut drywall and a long ruler or staff. To do this, apply a ruler to the sheet, make a cut along the line several times, the deeper it is, the better, and then carefully break the gypsum board and get the required size.

To simplify Finishing work, make a chamfer at the cut site at an angle of about 45 degrees, a plane or knife is used for this.

During the calculations, It is necessary to foresee in advance the places where you plan to mount hanging furniture or equipment.

Here additional profiles reinforced with wooden blocks must be installed, it all depends on the weight of the suspended structures.

Left place the sheet on the posts and secure it, this is done using self-tapping screws; they are installed in increments of 20 cm and slightly recessed into the sheet.

If you forgot to chamfer the sheets before installing them, do this with a knife when they are installed on the wall.

Carrying out finishing work

Installation of the frame and gypsum board is only the beginning of creating a plasterboard partition. At the next stage All seams are sealed. To do this, use sickle tape and putty. The entire surface of the wall is also puttyed.

After the base has dried, begin leveling the surface. The wall is covered with primer, which will allow the plaster to adhere better and provide additional protection GKL. Leveling is carried out with a wide spatula and finishing plaster.

Door block installation

In the prepared opening is performed installation of a door frame, do this with wedges, screws and polyurethane foam. First, the frame is aligned using wedges and fixed with self-tapping screws, after which they proceed to installing the door leaf.

The correctness of the work is checked, and the door should open and close easily. If everything is normal, then the remaining gaps are filled with polyurethane foam.

At this time the door is in closed position, or spacers are inserted into the frame so that when the foam hardens, it does not deform it.

The foam is cut off after it has completely hardened; if the canvas was removed, then it is hung only a day later, after installing the box.

Finishing

On last stage creating a wall from plasterboard, it is carried out finishing, for this it is usually use paint or wallpaper. The frame is covered with platbands, which help hide the door attachment points.

Features of insulation and sound insulation

It is not recommended to leave a hollow partition; it will be filled with sheet or roll insulation. They are laid after one side of the wall is covered with plasterboard, and only then is it sheathed on the other side.

If you plan to install utilities or a sliding door in such a wall, then insulation is not installed in the place where they are located.

To create sound insulation, use mineral wool or isover. From below, when installing the sheet, you need to leave a small gap, so stands of the appropriate thickness are installed.

In order for you to be able to create a plasterboard wall with an opening for doors yourself, You must adhere to the following expert advice:

1. During the installation of partitions in the room must be at least 10 degrees Celsius.
2. You need to calculate required amount guides and rack metal profiles, only then purchase them. Cut them according required size You can use a jigsaw or metal scissors.
3. The sheets are laid tightly to each other.
4. To create holes for sockets, you must use special drill bits.
5. In the places where the sheets are joined, be sure to use a sickle and seal the heads of the screws well with putty, after which the entire wall is puttied.
6. As finishing materials, you can use paint, wallpaper, tiles, cladding panels and others.

Conclusion

Now you see that there is nothing complicated in the construction of plasterboard partitions and all the work can be done independently. Having studied the technology of performing the work, advice from experts and prepared necessary tool, feel free to begin performing the specified work.

Useful video

How to make a partition from plasterboard with your own hands, step-by-step instructions in the video:

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