Often in life there is a need to use a vice. This is especially true when you have to work with a drill. Cutting with a grinder will be no exception, when you often have to hold the part with your foot and whatever you can. But this is inconvenient, and most importantly unsafe. Make yourself a small vise out of wood that you can easily store in your toolbox and take with you wherever you need it. Such a vice will be small, light, and in general, will become your best friend.
Materials and tools for making a vice:
- wood;
- a threaded rod and nuts for it;
- washers, screws and other small items;
- wood glue;
- varnish;
- dremel();
- drill with svelami ();
- sandpaper;
- chisel;
- clamps;
- screwdriver;
- two metal rods as guides;
- a tool for cutting wood ().
Vise manufacturing process:
Step one. Making the base
First of all, study the diagram and cut the blanks according to it. First of all, the author cuts off two blanks to make the base. Then these two parts are glued together. It’s better, of course, to use solid material, it’s just that the author didn’t have a board of the required width. However, an adhesive connection will cope with this task quite well. Gluing also has its advantages: you can make a base from narrow strips, it will be strong and at the same time light.
Convenient and portable to work with circular saw, but you can cope with this task using hand tools. Lubricate everything thoroughly with glue and clamp with clamps until completely dry.
Step two. Making jaws
The vice jaw, as usual, consists of two jaws. One jaw here acts as a support; it is attached at the very beginning of the vice, that is, there is a handle near it. And the second jaw is movable, they compress when you tighten the screw clockwise.
To make the jaws you will need four blocks. Their author also glues two pieces together. In each pair, one bar is responsible for the guide, and a threaded rod passes through the top ones. When you glue the blocks together and the glue is completely dry, drill holes in them. A hole is drilled in the top two bars of such a diameter that a threaded rod can pass through it.
And in the two lower bars, drill two holes for the guides. Convenient to work on drilling machine, you can immediately drill in pairs.
Step three. Insert the nut
Place the nut on the opening of the moving jaw and trace around it with a pen or pencil. Cut out the resulting shape using a sharp chisel. Install and glue the nut into the resulting cavity. It is best to use epoxy glue, but it won’t go anywhere anyway, unless it can crawl out of its place when the jaws open.
Step four. Installing guides
Two steel rods are used as guides. They must be glued into the jaw that is installed statically. Glue it in using epoxy glue. We dilute the resin with the hardener, glue the rods and leave for 24 hours until completely dry. Clean the rods first sandpaper, or better yet, treat it with a grinder for reliable gluing.
Step five. Glue the front jaw
The author attaches the front jaw with glue, but this method is not very reliable. When clamping a vice, you can easily break off the jaw, one way or another, this will happen someday in the future. Instead of glue, or better yet, screw a couple of self-tapping screws on the other side. If using glue, clamp the structure with a clamp until it dries completely.
Step six. Making a pen
To make a handle, select a block of the required size and cut a handle out of it. We drill a hole in the handle to the diameter of the rod and attach it to the rod with epoxy glue. You can also drill another small hole across and secure the handle with a pin, this will make it possible to remove it if necessary.
You will need a lever for the handle, drill a hole for it required diameter. The author also makes the lever from wood. We screw washers on both ends with self-tapping screws so that it does not fall out. Install washers between the handle and the stop. The washers need to be lubricated to reduce friction.
Step seven. Homemade sanding
Finally, the author grinds the surface of the vice so that it is smooth. First, this is done with a wire brush, and then using 200-grit sandpaper.
Step eight. Cutting off the excess
It so happened that the author’s guides turned out to be a little longer than necessary. He decided to cut them off and use them for another project. For these purposes, the author used a Dremel with an appropriate attachment. Be sure to smooth out the rough edges of the guides after this.
Carpenter's vices are useful device and must be present in any home handyman. They provide reliable fixation of the wooden part during processing.
Some craftsmen, not wanting to spend money on purchasing them, use various auxiliary devices for these purposes. But they don't provide in full performance technological operations in carpentry work, especially of increased complexity.
The device of a carpenter's vice
This device is very simple in design, reliable in use and can greatly facilitate the work. Its advantages:
- Possibility of installation anywhere in the workshop: on a workbench or on a self-made support.
- If its use is not required, it can be dismantled before the need arises.
- Ensuring the safety of work - the workpiece cannot slip out.
Working principle of a vice
The carpenter's vice consists of the following components:
- support including stationary parts;
- movable jaw for clamping;
- two scenes that ensure the movement of parts;
- lead screw;
- a knob that transmits torque to the lead screw.
The support of the device is fixedly attached to the surface of the workbench or a separate stand using long self-tapping screws or bolted connections. Many serial models of bench vises involve the use of replaceable bars on movable and fixed jaws.
They depend on what workpieces are supposed to be clamped. To increase versatility, these strips are made from steel or polymers. They allow you to protect clamped parts made of soft material from deformation.
Many bench vises are designed with a spring device to make clamping easier. wooden blanks large dimensions. It is also possible to install a similar unit on a device assembled independently.
With its help, it is easy to pre-fix the part, but by clamping it with a lead screw. If this mechanism is absent, the product must be held manually under its own weight until it is fixed, which significantly complicates the work.
Assembling a carpenter's vice with your own hands
A vice is a simple device, they can be easily purchased in a store, they are offered on the market various models, but most often they are made of steel. And cast iron is sometimes used for the bed.
Many models have holes for fastening to a table; a vice of this type is quite convenient to use, but home craftsmen cannot always afford unplanned expenses. Often standard devices are not suitable for the conditions of a particular workshop or the work being performed.
An acceptable option that does not require significant financial investments is to assemble a carpenter's vice with your own hands. At the same time, a homemade workbench will cost even cheaper.
To make this possible, at the first stage it is necessary to develop a sketch and prepare the necessary components. Clamping jaws can be made from wooden beams. A piece of metal, serving as a fixed jaw, is attached to the upper bench plate and will serve as the load-bearing support of the device.
One of important nodes The design includes a clamping screw. Its diameter must be at least 20 mm. The greater the length of the element, the larger the parts it will be easy to clamp with a vice.
You will need two steel scenes; any rods with a diameter of at least 10 mm are suitable for their manufacture.
The importance of the collar
The carpenter's vice is controlled by means of a crank that transmits torque to the lead screw. This is also true for homemade device. The driver can be a steel strip or tube of the required length, inserted into the groove or hole in the head of the threaded screw.
The size of the groove being made or the diameter of the hole must correspond to the thickness of the strip used or the diameter of the rod. The amount of force applied when clamping the workpiece depends on the length of the driver.
It is permissible to use conventional wrench, into the socket of which the head of the threaded screw is pressed. It is easy to fix the nut on the screw under required size. But you need to securely fix the key so that it does not come off at the most crucial moment.
But it is better if the knob is made of rod, with free sliding through the hole in the threaded screw; this approach will make the work as easy as possible.
Wooden fixtures
To make the movable and fixed jaws of a bench vise, you will need two blocks of wood. It is recommended to use pine wood; this material is characterized by the required softness and strength at the same time.
Holes of the required diameter are drilled: two for the scenes, one for the clamping screw. To ensure a fit for both holes, it is recommended to drill simultaneously by pressing the two jaws together. Considering the nature of the material used, nails must be used for this purpose; they are removed after drilling.
Installation procedure
When all preliminary work completed and the parts are prepared, you can begin directly installing the vice. We fasten the slides coming out from the rear edge of the frame with nuts, having previously cut the threads. The nut should also be screwed onto the screw. To ensure its fixation, a corresponding groove is made on the surface of the frame, in accordance with the dimensions of the nut.
After installing the fixed frame, screw and slides, a movable jaw is installed. A nut and locknut are screwed onto the edge of the threaded screw, extending beyond the front surface of the moving jaw, with an inserted washer, to ensure fastening.
After all the elements are secured, the knob is installed.
The carpenter's vice is ready for use. When turning the knob, the screw enters the nut on the stationary frame and attracts the movable jaw.
Making a wooden vice yourself is quite simple. In addition, they can be made according to the dimensions of the parts being processed. The location of the scenes and the length of the lead screw depend on this. The jaws can be extended and two clamping screws can be made to allow longer parts to be clamped. Here everyone must independently determine the required dimensions, depending on what work the vice will be used for.
This type of workbench vice is simpler in design than the one above. The device is distinguished by the vertical arrangement of movable and fixed jaws.
The movable jaw is attached at the bottom to the stationary installation by means of a steel bracket. A threaded screw is placed in the middle of the parts. For fixation, the nut into which it is screwed is pressed into a steel U-shaped profile, attached with self-tapping screws to the rear surface of the stationary jaw.
To prevent the nut from popping out, pressing is done using a hot method - with pre-heating of the profile, which will make it easier to clamp the nut. The collar is attached similarly to the previous model. Steel angles are mounted on the clamping surfaces of the jaws. These vices are not intended for massive products, but are quite compact and easy to use.
Carpentry tools from auto parts
With some quick wit, it's easy to make a vice out of old ones. unnecessary details, for example, car shock absorbers. You should also choose:
- steel corner profile;
- M20 nut;
- hairpin;
- rod from the gas stop for the knob.
The vice is attached to the workbench through holes drilled in the corner parts of the shock absorbers. Bolts with conical heads are used; if the car parts are annealed, their movement will become easier.
Making this yourself is simple, but very effective adaptation Any non-professional can do it if he has not previously had to do plumbing or carpentry work. But the benefits for the economy will be significant.
Video: Do-it-yourself carpentry vice
A carpenter's vice in a home workshop is simply an irreplaceable thing for those involved in manufacturing wooden structures and carving. Thanks to them, it will be much more convenient to process certain workpieces. It is best to do this also using a special workbench.
Of course, you can also treat the sides or end of the board with clamps pressed against the block. But the work will be much easier if you make a carpenter’s vice for a workbench with your own hands.
Finished product design
Carpenter's vices can be made independently or purchased from specialized retail outlets. Purchased item It is a housing with a movable bar. It moves along two guides, and the base is a place for screwing nuts or bolts to the vice.
It is possible to attach all kinds of wooden, plastic or metal pads to the jaws. They are needed to protect the processed product from damage. It is especially advisable to set this if you are working with soft views wood
A shop vice is capable of fixing workpieces of at least 20 cm, and in order not to move the clamping screw for too long, it is better to use a special spring mechanism, which will do this much faster by moving the movable lip. In the required position, the tree is fixed with a screw equipped with a trapezoidal thread.
Features of homemade structures
Well, if you are going to make a carpenter's vice, then they will have a slightly different structure. As a basis, we will take a screw with a 20 mm thread, its length being 150 mm. Often similar designs are used in sports-type corners. They are inserted into vertical pipes in order to use them to raise certain things higher. The threads in such screws are quite large, but they are not designed for heavy loads. However, it is quite possible to make a carpenter's vice with their help. It is better for the screw to be longer, since the distance between the lips will increase.
Be sure to choose suitable pins, which can be purchased specially for this job or found at home. Other types of fasteners may also be suitable instead. Some even used motorcycle mirror attachments. They have a curved structure, so before work they need to be straightened on an anvil with a sledgehammer.
Example of product manufacturing
And now we will look in more detail at how to make a carpenter’s vice with your own hands. To begin, make a board using two clamping jaws. The size is determined individually, depending on your work surface In workshop. Then on the front jaw you need to make markings for two holes, and they should be spaced as close as possible to each of the edges. We place the front board over the back one and make a hole in it depending on the diameter of the clamping bolt. We drill holes for the T-nuts according to the marks made earlier and then insert them there. Our carpenter's vice is already ready. Now you can place the back jaw on the table, press it with a clamp and, holding the part, make cuts.
There must be a slot in the long head of the screw to secure the handle. If it does not match the size of the handle, then it can be modified with a file, expanding the hole. Instead of using a lever to unscrew the clamping screw, you can use a design with a ring instead of a cap.
A carpenter's vice uses a pine board nailed to the table as a fixed jaw. And its moving part should have a thickness of 20 mm, a width of 18 mm and a length of 50 cm.
The hole for the screw must be made in both parts using an adjustable drill with a diameter of 21 mm, but for the studs you can use a regular one with a diameter of 10 mm, respectively. So that both sponges can be processed through and through in this way at the same time, nail them to each other with nails, and then remove the nails when the work is completed.
Benefits of using the product
We looked at how to make a carpenter's vice at home for the convenience of working with wood and other workpieces. There are other options for their manufacture, in particular designs with higher jaws, which are used exclusively for manual carpentry tools. Often in a work shop, carpenter's vices have a task called "double screw". Classic version products - two threads and two jaws, which are fixed in the front of the workbench, have been widely used for more than one century in a row.
Moreover, a carpenter's vice is enough simple thing in use. It is enough just to insert the part that needs to be processed between the jaws and tighten it with bolts. Thanks to them, carpenters got rid of many problems, in particular, they can process parts regardless of size, and they also help to level the backrest above the table surface.
Masters note the key advantages of the vice:
- they can be placed anywhere on the work surface of the workshop, in this regard they are very portable;
- since this product is not used by the master every day, they can be easily removed and placed on the wall in a designated place;
- The product can be installed on a table and used as a large clamp.
How to make a vice with a pressed nut
To make such a product with your own hands, you need to prepare the following:
- bolt with nut for spreading;
- metal staples.
So that the key when squeezing a wooden or metal blank the nut has not come off, it needs to be pressed into it. For this purpose, the sponges need to be heated over the fire and covered with it too. To assemble such a structure with your own hands, you will need a minimum of materials and necessary parts.
Assembling a vice based on shock absorbers
If you have experience and imagination, then you can assemble such a product from any old parts and devices that can be found in a workshop or garage. IN specific example we will need:
- shock absorbers;
- nut M18;
- metal corner;
- hairpin;
- rod from the gas stop for the handle of the structure.
Using all the parts, we assemble the vice, and then attach it to the table. We drill holes in the corners between the shock absorbers and attach them. To make it easier to work with the key material, the corners can be welded. The shock absorbers will move easier if they are burned out a little.
Any carpenter who works with wood and other materials notes that a carpenter's vice for a workbench is very convenient device, which greatly simplifies the work. Moreover, you can easily make them yourself.
If you decide to equip your own workshop, workbench or work table, you may definitely need homemade vice. This is a relatively simple task, and the completed workbench or workshop will serve you for a long time. You should study in more detail the question of how to make a bench vice with your own hands and what nuances accompany this process.
Double screw joiner
If you are looking for a carpenter's bench vise that is truly powerful, then this is your best bet. two-screw modification of the specified device. M20 towbar bolts provide a force of several tons, which is a great option for such a vice. The assembly procedure for such a device is as follows:
- We prepare everything necessary tools;
- We make the appropriate slots and holes;
- Insert bolts and turns;
- We check the vice for strength and performance.
Step by step and detailed instructions on assembly and self-creation vices for the workshop and workbench are available on specialized resources and forums in the form of photographs and recommendations.
Very convenient for ready-made desktops make a mini Moxon vice. To begin with you will need following materials and tools:
After the workpiece has been cut, it is necessary to sand the edges with sandpaper. We round the edges of the wheels with a drill and the same sandpaper. To make screws, you need to purchase a long threaded rod and cut metal blanks into two parts.
After this, you need to insert the nuts into the holes. Glue the skin onto the clips and remove all excess. Surface protection is provided by tung oil. It, unlike other wood impregnation agents, polymerizes inside and outside the tree with rapid penetration into the lower layers. After the oil has dried, all that remains is to connect all the resulting parts together - and the vice will be ready for use.
They are also easy to make yourself. First you need to cut the plywood to size. Weld two nuts to the flat panel for the threaded guide and attach them under the table with screws, as this will add stability to the structure in question. It is very important to align everything correctly, otherwise it will not work.
After this, you need to use a chisel to make a recess for the nut. On the outer lock, drill a hole 3 cm deep. Therefore, the thickness of the plywood should be 3 cm.
It is a copy of a regular vice, only made of wood. From metal parts here you should only use a screw 45 cm long and 8 cm thick. Massive pine plywood, well dried, is suitable.
The vise jaws are made from separate blocks, which are subsequently glued together. To give them their final shape, sand their edges with sandpaper. In this case, for one block it is worth choosing a thicker tree. This compensates for the space between the moving and fixed parts. The handle should fit through the head into the hole freely, then add the knob and anvil. When finished, remove the mounting screws, coat the vise elements with two coats of oil-based polyurethane and leave to dry overnight. Bolt the vise to the workbench.
Oak vice
The design of this structure is based on ancient drawings, the body is made of oak sleepers. The jaws can be cut by hand or with a saw. Grooves are punched down on both sides of the base. The brackets add strength to the rear jaw and secure it well to the base.
The top of the tee is on top of the clamping bolt. You will also need a large bolt and a square head that fits into the housing groove at the base of the vise. A steel strip should be added to each side of the base at the bottom to protect the side brackets from wear.
Make a homemade vice, as we see, it turns out, is not so difficult. There are many sites and articles on the Internet that talk in detail about the manufacture of devices for various workbenches and desktops. Making oak vices is very interesting, since solid pine plywood is ideal for them. A steel strip is a good addition as it prevents wear and tear on the brackets and vice in general. Happy work and making homemade workbenches!
The U-shaped clamp is short-lived. Most often, it functions until the rotating head begins to dangle and fall out of the movable jaw of the tool. The clamp can still be used, but it can be annoying that you have to hold the swivel joint while installing the clamp. But such a clamp may well come in handy.
I was looking for a wooden vice for my small workbench and the price surprised me. Even kits that you have to assemble yourself, wasting time and wood, can cost you hundreds of dollars. From the parts of an old clamp I was able to construct a vise for working with wood, and using old wood, I could do it without spending a penny.
More importantly, the vice can be constructed using only hand tools, requiring minimal resources, meaning this vise can be assembled by anyone, regardless of the size of the workshop.
Tools:
- bow saw or angle grinder
- circular saw or hacksaw
- drill with chisel bit
- chisel and hammer
Consumables:
- Broken U-shaped clamp
- 8 cm self-tapping screws
- wood glue
- 15 cm bolt with washers and additional nut
- 2.5 cm dowel
Step 2: Constructing a vice from an old clamp
First of all, you need to unscrew the movable jaw from the clamp. Without the hinge, it will come off easily. But if you are using a working clamp, you may need to cut it off.
Then take a metal saw or miter saw grinding machine with a rapidly rotating disc and cut the coupling from the clamp just before turning, leaving enough body. Most clamps are molded and can be easily cut with a hacksaw. They are often molded in a 'T' or 'I' shape, so you will have to cut away some of the material, leaving a space where you must drill two holes for mounting screws. When cutting off excess material, leave a small metal wedge next to the coupling. This will help squeeze it in drilled hole and prevent free rotation.
Step 3: Cutting the boards and drilling the holes
You will need a block measuring 5x15 cm, which will exactly match the height of your table. It will become the mounting base. Our design will be attached to the table leg. You will also need a second block measuring 5x15 cm, the length of which is about 60 cm. We use it as a board directly for the clamp. Place it 10 cm above the surface of your table. You will also need two 5x15x9cm pieces of wood for the face of the new clamp.
Now you need to decide where you want to place the screw. I set mine 30cm from the top of the clamp board. General idea is that the higher the screw is, the more pressure the clamp exerts, while the lower it is, the wider the range. I would recommend laying the pieces next to each other so that the clamp board is 10cm apart and drilling a small 0.5cm hole where the screw will be located. This will indicate its future location and make sure that the holes match.
Once you're sure the holes line up, take your mount base and drill a hole for the coupler on the side that will mount to the table. Now you can drill further, taking into account the diameter of your screw. Then take the coupling and drive it into the hole. Thanks to the wedge you left, it should fit very well. And thanks to the tongue, the coupling will be well secured.
You will need some sort of channel for the screw to go through the clamp board. You can drill several holes one after another (starting with the first 0.5cm hole and working your way up) and then cut out the excess material using a hammer and chisel. The channel should be 4 cm long and the width of your screw.
Now you can glue the face piece to the clamp and secure them 1.27 cm above the table top and the top of the circuit board.
Step 4: Create a Hinge Mount
Cut two blocks from the base of your clamp board, each measuring 4cm wide by 9cm long. Through the remaining part, drill a horizontal hole 2.5 cm from the end, the size of your 15 cm bolt. This is the hinge attachment point.
Next, you need to create and add support blocks. Cut them to 10cm and then drill a 15cm hole like your bolt, 5cm from the top. Use a round file to lengthen the holes to an inch. The extra clearance in the hinge hole will help relieve the clamping pressure, thus preventing cracks in the blocks.
Now, having cut out two channels, insert the blocks into the mounting base. Use wood glue to secure them.
Finally, install the bolt, but do not tighten it tightly. The entire mechanism must move freely in the grooves of the blocks. A lock nut works well. To prevent the nut from unscrewing, use a second nut and screw them together.
Step 5: Clamp Assembly
You will have to build a spacer for your screw. I used a hole saw to cut a 5cm disc from a 5x10cm block, then drilled a hole in the center to match the diameter of my screw. You can make as many spacers as you like depending on the space you need for your propeller handle. Ideal option will cut two such disks. Then the space between the two gaskets can be lubricated a small amount oil, which will allow you to tighten the clamp more smoothly.
You'll notice from the pictures that I started with one spacer, then added a second one and found that it was much better.
Once you've built the clamping system, you'll need to attach it to the workbench leg. I used simple 7cm self-tapping screws, spaced 15cm apart. I attached the structure through the base of the mount directly to the table leg. Now you can install the spacers on the screw and secure it.
Once the clamp is ready, you will need to install supports.
Step 6: Cutting and Drilling the Pegs
